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Lots of times it’s hard to find high quality aftermarket mud pump parts at a great value. And we know how difficult it can be to find all the right pump bearings and replacement parts in one site.

The good news is that in today’s world, you can find the right aftermarket mud pump supplies for a fraction of the OEM cost. Whether you’re looking for new parts for your 8-P-80, 9-P-100, 10-P-130, 12-P-160 or 14-P-220National style mud pumps, or any replacement brand mud pump, now at DrillingParts you can find ALL your high quality aftermarket mud pump parts in one place.

At DrillingParts, with one simple request, you will receive Multiple Quotes from various high quality Mud Pump Suppliers, all offering products that meet API standards.

There’s no need to waste time calling, emailing, texting and leaving messages for different suppliers. Let our marketplace Quote Request System easily find the right Mud Pump Parts for you.

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Drilling consumables such as mud pump systems and their components can drastically increase your uptime while reducing costs and health/safety/environmental (HSE) risks. To support your drilling needs, Forum’s patented P-Quip® mud pump system offers a single-source solution that integrates high-quality fluid end components for maximum longevity and performance.

With more than 20 years of successful operation in severe environments, P-Quip offers a proven track record for the lowest cost of ownership in the industry. As part of our commitment to quality, our mud pump parts use patented Banded Bore™ technology that significantly reduces stress concentrations and leads to longer module life.

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A properly serviced pulsation dampener is critical for your mud pumps’ efficiency, safety, and performance. Unfortunately, there aren’t many resources available to educate personnel on executing safe and effective servicing procedures. Please review the following steps with your personnel for safe pulsation dampener maintenance.

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Mud Pumps are available for the different purposes of drilling and extracting of oil. In fact, the Unitized Pumps are a work of the hydraulic mechanical transmission. Unitized pump parts include 4 types of packages such as the air clutch transmission takes in the diesel engine, transmission (including card and shaft, decelerator, clutch, belt and pulley) and the Mud pump. The Mud Pumps are also inclusive of the hydraulic coupling transmission that consists of the diesel engine, hydraulic coupling and the Mud pump. It also includes the electric drive Mud pump and the chain transmission for apt design and assembling.

The Unitized design Pumps are built as well as licensed according to the specifications of the American Petroleum Institute where the master skid is the standard oilfield 3 runner skid. Mud Pumps like the F 1000 are driven by the diesel engine with the help of the narrow V belts. Pumps are complete with a bulk wheel, a set of V belts, a screw assembly, a belt guard and the screw devices for tightening the belts. Mud pump like the triplex liner single action pumps has an input power of 1000 horse power. The maximum stroke is all of 10 inches or 254 mm.

Mud parts also contain a maximum working pressure of 5000 PSI or 35 MPA. The Mud Pumps have a gear type made of integral herring bone with API 6 valve pots. The intake of the F 1000 Pumps is 12 inches or 305 mm and they have a discharge space of 4 inches or 102 mm. Mud pump also contain a pulsation dampener model that has a capacity of 75.7 liters or 20 gallons. The relief valve and pressure gauge are also an important part of the Mud pump as they help in various ways.

Mud pump like the diesel engine has a rated speed of about 1200 revolutions per minute and the movement takes place in an anticlockwise direction with the face output shaft end. For the purpose of testing and commissioning, the Mud pump needs to be installed and secured with machinery and different kinds of equipment. Furnish the lube products for testing and the diesel is required to be run for testing the transmission devices. To give you an idea, the Mud pump that is being discussed in this category is available at competitive prices and can be obtained for pneumatic clutch transmission that can be adjusted according to customer’s requirements.

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Adjust or replace these bearings at first sign of wear. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted at first signs of looseness.. You will note on series 3400, 3800, 3500, and 3900 pumps, that the shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting, although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings, and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on the bolts.

To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump, so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. Oil clearance should be checked with Plastigage (available in most parts stores). Wipe crankshaft journal clean of any oil, place a strip of Plastigage on the crankshaft journal and tighten rod cap to the proper torque value. Once tightened, remove rod cap and measure oil clearance with scale on Plastigage package. See oil clearance chart. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Rotate the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another 0.005" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted.

Torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper value. Again rotate the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should be ready for operation.

If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, care must-be taken: not to over-tighten the bearings, since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump. When bearings are adjusted by this method, watch carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.

It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly.

Inspect connecting rod bearings and adjust as necessary every six months or when crankcase lubricant is changed. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted to compensate for wear. You will note that shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on them.

To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is a little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Turn the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another .005"" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted, torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper amount. Again turn the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should then be ready for operation.

If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, the bearings may be completely adjusted by shaking the bearing on the shaft as stated above. Care must be taken not to over-tighten the bearings since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump by hand. When bearings are adjusted by this method, they must be watched carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.

Alternatively, plastic gauge strips, found in most parts stores may be used to adjust these bearings. It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. with experience, an operator can tell by feel when the bearings are properly adjusted. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly. All wrenches used in adjusting these bearings are standard wrenches.