mud pump missing bolts manufacturer

Lots of times it’s hard to find high quality aftermarket mud pump parts at a great value. And we know how difficult it can be to find all the right pump bearings and replacement parts in one site.

The good news is that in today’s world, you can find the right aftermarket mud pump supplies for a fraction of the OEM cost. Whether you’re looking for new parts for your 8-P-80, 9-P-100, 10-P-130, 12-P-160 or 14-P-220National style mud pumps, or any replacement brand mud pump, now at DrillingParts you can find ALL your high quality aftermarket mud pump parts in one place.

At DrillingParts, with one simple request, you will receive Multiple Quotes from various high quality Mud Pump Suppliers, all offering products that meet API standards.

There’s no need to waste time calling, emailing, texting and leaving messages for different suppliers. Let our marketplace Quote Request System easily find the right Mud Pump Parts for you.

ICS Mill Master gland bolts display a combination of properties that allow for exceptional performance. As a result, the combination of high hardness, high density, high bond strength, non-galling, low friction, and exceptional corrosion resistance make ICS gland bolts an optimal choice for all pumping applications.

A packing application applies specific demands on the equipment, namely friction and abrasion. Therefore, ICS Mill Master gland bolts support and align the packing material in an expeller seal arrangement. As gland bolts are a key element of the seal arrangement, it is important to use high quality parts to ensure a simplified assembly and disassembly of seal arrangements.

ICS supplies complete new pumps and replacement parts (including assemblies) that are 100% interchangeable with a wide range of competitor’s pumps. Any use of competitor names, trademarks, model numbers, or part numbers are for reference only. Please refer to Legal Disclaimer of website for complete details.

Since 2001, TSC Manufacturing and Supply, LLC has been a leading global manufacturer and supplier of fluid end expendables, as well as mud pump spare parts for oilfield applications. Today, we continue to keep our proud tradition of excellence going, as we strive to better ourselves in order to better our customers" experience. Our global network of inventory locations provides unrivaled quality, customer service, on-time delivery, and unmatched technical integrity.

When it comes to mud pump fluid end expendable parts, TSC Manufacturing and Supply, LLC, has it all. TSC can, and will, match your needs, so that you won’t be lacking in anything. TSC mud pump liners are designed and manufactured to meet or exceed original equipment specification and API standards for almost all types of mud pumps in use today. With advanced technology, metallurgical control, and rigid inspection, we offer unmatched performance and durability, according to customer testimonies, in the most severe drilling conditions; both triplex and duplex liners are available in a wide range of sizes.

Adjust or replace these bearings at first sign of wear. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted at first signs of looseness.. You will note on series 3400, 3800, 3500, and 3900 pumps, that the shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting, although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings, and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on the bolts.

To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump, so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. Oil clearance should be checked with Plastigage (available in most parts stores). Wipe crankshaft journal clean of any oil, place a strip of Plastigage on the crankshaft journal and tighten rod cap to the proper torque value. Once tightened, remove rod cap and measure oil clearance with scale on Plastigage package. See oil clearance chart. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Rotate the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another 0.005" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted.

Torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper value. Again rotate the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should be ready for operation.

If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, care must-be taken: not to over-tighten the bearings, since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump. When bearings are adjusted by this method, watch carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.

It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly.

Inspect connecting rod bearings and adjust as necessary every six months or when crankcase lubricant is changed. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted to compensate for wear. You will note that shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on them.

To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is a little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Turn the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another .005"" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted, torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper amount. Again turn the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should then be ready for operation.

If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, the bearings may be completely adjusted by shaking the bearing on the shaft as stated above. Care must be taken not to over-tighten the bearings since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump by hand. When bearings are adjusted by this method, they must be watched carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.

Alternatively, plastic gauge strips, found in most parts stores may be used to adjust these bearings. It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. with experience, an operator can tell by feel when the bearings are properly adjusted. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly. All wrenches used in adjusting these bearings are standard wrenches.

Bolt is drilled in and grout is pumped through the center hole with pumpable resin or cement grouts. The couplers are designed to exceed the ultimate load of the bar by 20%. The couplers are designed to minimize the loss of drill energy.

Suitable for granular soils and fills. This installation method utilizes a Grout Swivel, grout pump and drifter. The technique combines drilling and grouting as a single operation, ensuring that grout is placed over the full length of the borehole.

Grouting pressures should be regulated to maintain circulation at all times (typically up to 100 psi), with a small amount of grout return visible at the mouth of the borehole. Pressures in excess of 100 psi are generally only required for specialist applications (i.e. anchors in cohesive soils or mining applications). The choice of grout pump varies between applications, but basic requirements are as follows:thorough mixing of the grout – to avoid blockages at the drill bit,

Grout Swivels are used for simultaneous drill and grout installation, to inject grout into the bore of a rotating DSI Drill Hollow Bar. The unit comprises of a heat treated shaft (to withstand the impact energy from the hammer drive) and a housing into which the grout is pumped. Inlet ports within the shaft enable grout to be pumped into the bore of the bar.

A few years ago, I purchased a Baker Mfg. Co. 51E catalog featuring Monitor-brand engines and equipment. Inside, the catalog shows a photo of a 1-1/4 HP Monitor engine hooked up to a diaphragm pump – sometimes referred to as a mud pump or a trash pump. The only information Baker offers on this setup is a black-and-white catalog photo with a small caption beneath that reads, ‘For Trench Pumping.’ I thought this was a pretty neat-looking setup, and since I collect Monitor engines I really wanted to add this unique mud pump configuration to my collection.

I searched for these mud pump outfits for a couple of years with no luck, so I figured the only way to ever get one was to build it. It turned out that locating the pump was the hardest part of the whole project – I wasn’t even sure of the pump brand in the catalog, but I didn’t let that stop me! I got my lucky break while attending a gas engine show at Fort Scott, Kan. An auction was planned at the show, so after making my rounds through all the engine displays I headed on down to see what they were going to auction. I could hardly believe my eyes when I walked up on a mud pump. Right there before me sat the pump I had been searching for! Built by the Edson Mfg. Co. of Boston, the pump was kind of rough, but nothing major was wrong with it. It isn’t the same shape as the pump in the black-and-white catalog photo, which probably means it isn’t the same brand, but it would do perfectly, nonetheless. I didn’t stray far from that spot until the pump was mine.

Now that I had finally obtained the most needed part for this project, I was anxious to get started with the restoration. About the only thing I did to the Edson pump was give it a good sandblasting, replace some of the bolts and the diaphragm, and make a new handle. To date, I still don’t know the year the pump was made, although Edson is still in business and still sells the diaphragms for this kind of pump. Additionally, the pump didn’t have a patent number cast anywhere on it, but the number ‘ 1882’ is cast in it. Could that be the year the pump was made? It might be since the company has been in operation since 1859.

I purchased a 1-1/4 HP, 500-rpm, hopper-cooled Monitor engine, serial no. 17798, for this project. According to the serial number list, this unit was made in 1918, and it has a 3-1/2-inch bore and a 4-inch stroke. The flywheel measures 17-5/8 inches in diameter with a 2-1/4-inch face. Ignition is accomplished by buzz coil and spark plug. After disassembling the hit-and-miss engine, I found it had a lot of problems – almost every part was worn beyond use and never rebuilt. The worst problems on the engine were a cracked flywheel and a big chunk missing from the cylinder bottom where the rod came loose before it was retired. Also, the exhaust detent arm that attaches to the detent support bracket had been worn to an egg shape, and it had so much play I couldn’t get the beginning or end of the hookup period to adjust out. I had no way to repair those problems, and considering all the broken and worn-out parts, I had almost decided to just part out what I could from the engine and locate another one for the project.

Now that I had most everything repaired, the only thing left was to reassemble and paint everything. To my surprise, when I started the engine for the first time, it fired up on the second turn of the flywheel and ran great! In all, this setup weighs about 615 pounds, and the restored Edson pump moves I gallon of water on each stroke.

Most of the square gas tank Monitors I’ve seen were painted gray by the factory, but on my engine only traces of red paint were present, so that’s the color I chose. Even though this engine needed so much work, I’m glad I went ahead and restored it. It was a fun project and has turned out to be a real crowd-pleaser at every show I take it to. These pumps are hard to find, and I had never seen or heard of a setup like this, so I’m guessing Baker only made a limited number. Most show-goers walk by a lot of the other displays with hardly a glance – but not this one! Only a few people are able to walk by without watching for a good while. If anyone out there has an original example of this setup, I’d like to hear from them.

A properly serviced pulsation dampener is critical for your mud pumps’ efficiency, safety, and performance. Unfortunately, there aren’t many resources available to educate personnel on executing safe and effective servicing procedures. Please review the following steps with your personnel for safe pulsation dampener maintenance.