mud pump missing bolts factory

Adjust or replace these bearings at first sign of wear. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted at first signs of looseness.. You will note on series 3400, 3800, 3500, and 3900 pumps, that the shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting, although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings, and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on the bolts.

To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump, so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. Oil clearance should be checked with Plastigage (available in most parts stores). Wipe crankshaft journal clean of any oil, place a strip of Plastigage on the crankshaft journal and tighten rod cap to the proper torque value. Once tightened, remove rod cap and measure oil clearance with scale on Plastigage package. See oil clearance chart. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Rotate the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another 0.005" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted.

Torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper value. Again rotate the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should be ready for operation.

If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, care must-be taken: not to over-tighten the bearings, since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump. When bearings are adjusted by this method, watch carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.

It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly.

Inspect connecting rod bearings and adjust as necessary every six months or when crankcase lubricant is changed. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted to compensate for wear. You will note that shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on them.

To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is a little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Turn the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another .005"" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted, torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper amount. Again turn the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should then be ready for operation.

If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, the bearings may be completely adjusted by shaking the bearing on the shaft as stated above. Care must be taken not to over-tighten the bearings since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump by hand. When bearings are adjusted by this method, they must be watched carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.

Alternatively, plastic gauge strips, found in most parts stores may be used to adjust these bearings. It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. with experience, an operator can tell by feel when the bearings are properly adjusted. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly. All wrenches used in adjusting these bearings are standard wrenches.

This is usually another name for a progressing cavity pump where a single screw rotated by a motor rotates within a stator. This is covered in our progressing cavity pump guide.

One screw is driven via the motor, with the other rotated by external timing gears at the opposite end of the unit. Screws can be mounted in pairs meaning up to 4 screws can be in one pump. All screws mesh together ensuring fluid travels along the screws from the inlet towards the outlet.

The lower the viscosity of fluids being pumped, the higher speeds at which components can be rotated at. Higher viscosity fluids such as Heavy Fuel Oil, molasses, bitumen or other slow flowing viscous liquids must be handled at reduced speeds to enable fluid sufficient time to enter the pumps inlet and ensuring cavitation does not occur. Lowering rotational speed also assists with the NPSH required by pumps.

Screw pumps are known to be efficient, due to clearances within the pump being fine. A gearbox is not always required, meaning mechanical efficiency is one of the highest when compared to other pumps such as gear or vane requiring such accessories.

Units are typically fitted complete with a relief valve protecting the pump from damage should outlet pipework become blocked, limiting the pumps ability to generate excessive pressure in such cases.

Screw pumps NPSH requirement can be as little as 1.5M with designs available for immersion in fluids where viscosity is high or NPSH available is low.

Due to the ability to alter pump speed through a gear box, pumps can handle a wide range of viscosities up to 35,000cst with changes in fluid viscosity usually having little effect on pumped flow rate.

Marine: Lube oil systems, fuel transfer, sludge transfer, bilge pumping, oily water separator feed, cargo loading & offloading, burner feed for inert gas generator

Our comparison tables below detail how this type of design compares to other pump technologies:Non Pulsating & High efficiencyPulsating flow and less efficient

Designs can be assembled without rubber parts enabling the pump to be used with solvents and chemicalsPump contains a large stator which is manufactured from rubber meaning the unit can not be used with solvents and certain chemicals

A few years ago, I purchased a Baker Mfg. Co. 51E catalog featuring Monitor-brand engines and equipment. Inside, the catalog shows a photo of a 1-1/4 HP Monitor engine hooked up to a diaphragm pump – sometimes referred to as a mud pump or a trash pump. The only information Baker offers on this setup is a black-and-white catalog photo with a small caption beneath that reads, ‘For Trench Pumping.’ I thought this was a pretty neat-looking setup, and since I collect Monitor engines I really wanted to add this unique mud pump configuration to my collection.

I searched for these mud pump outfits for a couple of years with no luck, so I figured the only way to ever get one was to build it. It turned out that locating the pump was the hardest part of the whole project – I wasn’t even sure of the pump brand in the catalog, but I didn’t let that stop me! I got my lucky break while attending a gas engine show at Fort Scott, Kan. An auction was planned at the show, so after making my rounds through all the engine displays I headed on down to see what they were going to auction. I could hardly believe my eyes when I walked up on a mud pump. Right there before me sat the pump I had been searching for! Built by the Edson Mfg. Co. of Boston, the pump was kind of rough, but nothing major was wrong with it. It isn’t the same shape as the pump in the black-and-white catalog photo, which probably means it isn’t the same brand, but it would do perfectly, nonetheless. I didn’t stray far from that spot until the pump was mine.

Now that I had finally obtained the most needed part for this project, I was anxious to get started with the restoration. About the only thing I did to the Edson pump was give it a good sandblasting, replace some of the bolts and the diaphragm, and make a new handle. To date, I still don’t know the year the pump was made, although Edson is still in business and still sells the diaphragms for this kind of pump. Additionally, the pump didn’t have a patent number cast anywhere on it, but the number ‘ 1882’ is cast in it. Could that be the year the pump was made? It might be since the company has been in operation since 1859.

I purchased a 1-1/4 HP, 500-rpm, hopper-cooled Monitor engine, serial no. 17798, for this project. According to the serial number list, this unit was made in 1918, and it has a 3-1/2-inch bore and a 4-inch stroke. The flywheel measures 17-5/8 inches in diameter with a 2-1/4-inch face. Ignition is accomplished by buzz coil and spark plug. After disassembling the hit-and-miss engine, I found it had a lot of problems – almost every part was worn beyond use and never rebuilt. The worst problems on the engine were a cracked flywheel and a big chunk missing from the cylinder bottom where the rod came loose before it was retired. Also, the exhaust detent arm that attaches to the detent support bracket had been worn to an egg shape, and it had so much play I couldn’t get the beginning or end of the hookup period to adjust out. I had no way to repair those problems, and considering all the broken and worn-out parts, I had almost decided to just part out what I could from the engine and locate another one for the project.

Now that I had most everything repaired, the only thing left was to reassemble and paint everything. To my surprise, when I started the engine for the first time, it fired up on the second turn of the flywheel and ran great! In all, this setup weighs about 615 pounds, and the restored Edson pump moves I gallon of water on each stroke.

Most of the square gas tank Monitors I’ve seen were painted gray by the factory, but on my engine only traces of red paint were present, so that’s the color I chose. Even though this engine needed so much work, I’m glad I went ahead and restored it. It was a fun project and has turned out to be a real crowd-pleaser at every show I take it to. These pumps are hard to find, and I had never seen or heard of a setup like this, so I’m guessing Baker only made a limited number. Most show-goers walk by a lot of the other displays with hardly a glance – but not this one! Only a few people are able to walk by without watching for a good while. If anyone out there has an original example of this setup, I’d like to hear from them.

Pumps are often designed to operate at a single point known as the Best Efficiency Point (BEP). As components begin to wear, a pumps performance begins to decline, with operation away from this point leading to issues such as accelerated bearing or seal wear, vibration, excess temperature rise or cavitation. Quite often declining performance can start gradually, before quickly accelerating until failure if performance issues are not addressed in a timely fashion.

Corrective Maintenance is undertaken when failure has occurred. The unit may be leaking, efficiency reduced, pump stopped or motor tripped, leading to loss of production resulting in an urgent situation where parts must be sourced and fitted quicky.

Preventative Maintenance is inspection and repair scheduled at specific intervals (daily, weekly, monthly, yearly) or based on the number of hours run. Visual inspections are made externally and internally by dismantling the unit, replacing seals such as gaskets and mechanical seals, with pump parts checked for wear.

Differential Pressure:Check the operating pressure by calculating the difference between the inlet and outlet pressure of the pump ensuring it is operating on curve.

Although Proactive Maintenance can seem to avoid the urgent costs and downtime associated with reactive maintenance, PM maintenance costs can be high due to the cost of labour in dismantling of complicated designs such as Progressing Cavity, or Triplex Plunger pumps which are often time consuming to maintain with more than one person required to undertake work.

On dismantling units, some seals require replacing regardless of condition, and excess spares can be required in case of gasket entrapment during assembly. Rental of specialist lifting equipment may be required and there can be situations where when inspected, pump parts do not require replacement.

This can be achieved through a monitoring device, where when the right data is collected, pump failure can be anticipated between 3 and 12 months in advance with an 80-95% accuracy.

With the average lead time on DN100 pumps, and units over 5 years old being 3 months or more, it is essential that spares are either on the shelf or failure is anticipated through advance ordering.

There are hazards during any maintenance activity. Always ensure the correct PPE is worn before attempting repair, that sufficient expertise is on hand and chemical data sheets of any fluid being pumped are checked prior to undertaking work. A full risk assessment should be completed in advance.

Hazardous FluidsIrritation, Chemical burns, ignitionEnsure when pump is opened the unit is cool, not pressurized, ignition sources are not present, and any fluids spilt are contained.

If inspection has been neglected for some time, then additional parts may require replacing than had the unit been inspected earlier, with some pump parts becoming beyond economical repair.

Enables planned work to be undertaken during lower activity levels and at lowest cost & risk.Pump has to be crucial within a process or above a certain size for monitoring to be cost effective

Thread Sealant –The use of semi-permanent thread sealant will ensure vitality important threaded fasteners such as bolts or screws on shafts, couplings or pump casings do not self-loosen due to vibration and become disengaged.

Interchangeable Spares –Our range of pumps are modular in design utilizing interchangeable spares, meaning on site stock holding of parts can be reduced by up to 80% further reducing slow moving stock.

Repair & Replace –Choosing to repair an existing pump within a process of vital importance, as well as replace, is a strategy we recommend for maximizing plant efficiencies and reducing downtime. Should unexpected pump failure occur, your process can be restored quickly.

indicates which areas should be checked, but note that a units maintenance routine is dependent on several factors such as hours of operation, duty, aggressiveness of pump medium, rpm of motor, temperature, inlet conditions and location of equipment.

I"m not there standing over the engine compartment looking at the problem, so I am just going on problems I"ve had. I have broke a few easy outs, I did not let that stop me. They were removed and so was the stub and the problem was resolved. I have had success many more times with easy outs than the 2 times I have broke them. The 2 times I broke them was my own dumb fault,why? Because I did not use heat to expand the metal or aluminum that had caused the bolt to break in the first place. If a 5/16ths grade 5 bolt breaks while being removed how could one expect a 3/16ths easy out to withstand the torque that broke the 5/16ths bolt. Add heat, expand the molecules, which releases the grip the corrosion has on the bolt.

I have made many things out of aluminum and they have been taped and bolted together. One piece I made was two items bolted together with 10-32 machine screws. I could not locate stainless machine screws so I setteled for brass. Big mistake. They get the white corrosion also. I had to take it apart and the slotted brass screws were not going to budge. Before I went and destroyed the slotted head I grabed my little propane torch, licked it a few times with heat and presto out they came and I moved on.

The problem your having is a 5 minute problem not a five day. Add a little heat and try very tight and sharp vice grips(after some use the teeth get rounded, a small triangle file can cure this) If the vice grips start to slip stop and add a little more heat and so on. Keep the flame moving and heat the housing evenly. You"ll be suprised! Really! When I finally figured out to use heat I stopped wasting my money on miracles in a can.

You may want to try your local hardware stores for stainless replacement bolts especially in that aluminum caseing. All my thermostat housings have stainless now. Yes I broke the bolts, yes I used an easyout with heat.

YOU"LL BE SURPRISED!