overshot card wads pricelist

Place an overshot card on top of the shot charge just before crimping to improve overall crimp quality and seal in small shot and/or buffer. Excellent for use with BPI Roll Crimpers.

Our testing lab has proven that poor crimps can alter the performance of an otherwise good load. Overshot cards always produce better, more consistent crimps and this consistency is demonstrated in the standard deviation of loads in our lab. Our ballistic lab recommends overshot cards for better crimps in all loads.

Clear Overshot Disks(either plain or printed with shot size) are also offered for great roll crimping options. See pictures in Additional Images or click on this link.

Shotshell size selection:Use the same size gauge as your hull. Smaller diameter cards also work if your particular size is out of stock. For example, a 20ga overshot card works in a 16-gauge shotshell and so on.

Circle Fly wads have recently been improved. The 1/8” nitro card wad is now 100% waterproof, so it may be loaded in black powder shot shells using lubed cushion wads and the moisture will not soak through the nitro card and foul out the powder charge. The overshot card is now thinner and lighter, but stiffer; it is .025” thick instead of .030”, but is not made from a laminated stock like the old one was, so it is actually stiffer. Wad size .740.

The price to quantity is second to none! I have completely switched from BPI overshot cards to Dixie Gun Works! plus they are a true .025" thick card were BPI"s cards mic at .040" which makes a world of difference on some of my more particular buckshot loads crimps! Thanks to the team at Dixie Gun Works!

Circle Fly wads have recently been improved. The 1/8” nitro card wad is now 100% waterproof, so it may be loaded in black powder shot shells using lubed cushion wads and the moisture will not soak through the nitro card and foul out the powder charge. The overshot card is now thinner and lighter, but stiffer; it is .025” thick instead of .030”, but is not made from a laminated stock like the old one was, so it is actually stiffer. Wad size .790.

Overshot cards are placed on top of the shot column, just before crimping. Overshot cards aid the load"s combustion process. This produces more consistent pressures and velocities. Also, overshot card wads help the crimp to contain the payload (buffer) and keep contaminants and moisture out.

I thought this could be a good thread to list the other parts/tools for making homemade fillers like OS cards, wad inserts of felt and thick cardboard. Here’s the ideas I’ve read or come up with:

Here’s a link to larger hollow punch, it has 9/16 (.56″) and 5/8 (.625). The 9/16 should work for 20ga OS while the 5/8 for 20ga nitrocards (used for 12ga load spacers).

A great guy who goes by the moniker “lostknife4” produces some beautiful looking roll-crimped shells, and puts a nice round label over the OS card.  A lot of folks liked it, and here’s what Lost said about how he made the labels:

Another useful cut-out I have recently used is from the thin stiff plastic sheets that bacon is packed on.  I got this idea from my buddy azdukhuntr.  The PT2092 wad has a thin web between the powder and shot, and several folks have gotten wad burn through when using the max load published for that wad by BPI, 38gr Lilgun.  Until last month when BPI started importing a new wad by B&P intended for 3″ 20ga hull, which they call a CSD203, this Pt2092 had the largest published 20ga steel shot payload at 420gr.  So folks want to use it, and it’s half the price of SAM1 wads.  In order to strengthen up the wad so it doesn’t burn through and ruin patterns, you can glue a thin plastic disc up inside the powder cup.  These bacon sheet cutouts work perfectly.  I used a dab of woodglue, azdukhuntr uses contact cement I think.  It’s a bit of work, but you don’t make too many of them for hunting rounds.

I forgot to mention another option for making wads. If you know the O.D. of the wad you need to fit your bore - take a look at a "hole saw" - the type sole at Lowes, etc. IF the hole saw has the I.D. that matches the O.D. of what you need - you can easily make a wad cutter that will work on a drill press.

I use them to cut multiple layers of flannel to make cleaning patches in the diameters I need - they would work for making punches as well. I use a belt sander/disc sander to remove the hardened teeth from the hole saw and then sharpen the hole saw - i.e. bevel the "outside edge" of the bottom which will form a sharp edge and maintain the inside diameter. These mount on an arbor which usually has a center drill bit that is removable - remove the drill bit. Chuck the altered hole saw in your drill press and use a piece of wood on the table - lay your material down and drill through it with the hole saw. The hole saws usually have slots on the side and it makes it easy to stop the drill press, take something like a scratch awl and reach through the slot and push the patches/wad out - then cut another. If you are lucky enough to find a hole saw with the ID that fits you purposes - you could easily stack up three or so layers of thicker cardboard and cut cards or if cutting wads, cut up some 1/2" insulated sheathing or use a celotex type ceiling tile and get a lot of wads. Much easier than hand punching but just be careful to keep material flat on wood on the table so the hole saw has a backer when it breaks through the material you are using. If you leave the teeth on and try it, you"ll end up with ragged edges -- the teeth removed and the edge bevel sharpened on the outside will slice right through.If you know the O.D.of the wad you need for your bore/shell/use - take a set of dial calipers with you when you go looking for the hole saw so you can easily check the I.D. of the hole saw. As an example - remember that a 3/4" holes is designed to cut a hole that is 3/4" hole (.750). The thickness of the side of the material making the hole saw will have to be doubled and subtracted from the O.D. So as an example - a 3/4" hole saw that has sides that are say, 1/8" thick - the two sides would equal 1/4" that would have to be removed from the O.D. of the hole saw to give you the I.D. of the holes - in this example the I.D. would be 3/4" - 1/4" (1/8" of the thickness of the hole saw sides doubled) = and I.D. of 1/2" - which would be the O.D of the wads it would cut. Simplified but you get the idea.

OK, so I recently acquired a Belgian Hammered Double in 16ga.  I also managed to get hold of some Brass Shells for it (Thank you!).  I also have the full set of correct sized over powder cards, cushion wads and over shot cards.

While I have been loading BP into plastic hulls for many years, I have never loaded brass.  Not much different than what I am already doing except for sealing the over shot card.  Everybody has their favorite sealing material: Duco Cement, Elmers glue, water glass, bubble yum bubble gum, spit from a horned toad, etc.  And all of those methods work just fine.  What I am after, being new to brass shells, is the one that is the easiest to get right.  These are not going to magnum loads!  This shotgun is about 125 years old.  As much as I love a big boom, this will be loaded on the lighter side.  No sense beating up on an antique.

now that we have successfully stuck/glued/soldered an overshot card in place well enough to not fall out under normal bumps and bruises.  How much of that glue comes out when fired and for the remnants how do you get them back out of the shell for the next loading?  If I am over thinking this too much, I cant help it... I"m an engineer.

Place an overshot card on top of the shot charge just before crimping to improve overall crimp quality and seal in small shot and/or buffer. Excellent for use with BPI Roll Crimpers.

Our testing lab has proven that poor crimps can alter the performance of an otherwise good load. Overshot cards always produce better, more consistent crimps and this consistency is demonstrated in the standard deviation of loads in our lab. Our ballistic lab recommends overshot cards for better crimps in all loads.

Clear Overshot Disks(either plain or printed with shot size) are also offered for great roll crimping options. See pictures in Additional Images or click on this link.

Shotshell size selection: Use the same size gauge as your hull. Smaller diameter cards also work if your particular size is out of stock. For example, a 20ga overshot card works in a 16-gauge shotshell and so on.

When using a buffered load, I don"t use an overshot card. I don"t want any cards over my shot. I add a small, round circle of toilet tissue just to keep the buffer in place until I seal the hull after crimping. Some hulls might have a little hole in the middle after crimping. It just keeps any buffer from trickling out if I drop a load, knock it over or whatever before getting it sealed. Some people use Tyvek over the shot.