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What"s equally as important as your automatic taping and finishing tools? You need a reliable mud pump. The drywall compound pump, or mud pump, is necessary to quickly fill your automatic tools such as a flat box or automatic taping tool, and keep the job moving with minimal delay. Without a reliable pump, you’ll be spending more time fiddling with a pump that is difficult to clean, or worse, resorting to hand-filling your tools, which is time consuming, and counter productive.

No pump = no tools, so you need a workhorse that will withstand a lot, and get through your workday, every time. TheLevel5 Drywall Compound Pumpis constructed of billet aluminum, making it much stronger, and more durable than your typical cast aluminum construction.

Another important quality is resistance to corrosion. Tools built of poor quality and materials are prone to rust and corrosion. The anodization on the Level5 Drywall compound pump makes it highly resistant to corrosion, as well as wear and tear!

A good seal is important too! Typically for compound pumps, a rubber seal is used, but the problem with rubber is that it will slowly deteriorate, and before you know it, you’re leaking all over the place. The Level5 Drywall Compound Pump uses a composite urethane cup seal, which provides much longer wear life vs. the traditional rubber seals.

Working with mud can be messy, and when you’re on the job, it"s important to be able to easily clean and maintain your compound pump. You should not be spending any extra time fiddling with small screws or components to clean your pump, or to switch valves.

That’s why the Level5 Compound pump has easy clean features, like grenade pins and easy-release latches on its tube and handle. It also comes with a wrench, and a built-in wrench mount so that you are always prepared to switch from gooseneck to box-filler valve, or make a quick adjustment with ease.

Theoretically, yes you can, but it"s a slow process, and at which point you may be better off hand finishing, as you will impede the speed of the work. The combination of your automatic tools and your mud pump will pay for itself fairly quickly by the speed and quality job that you can achieve.

We think the Level5 Drywall Compound Pump is the best drywall mud pump on the market, and truly the underestimated workhorse in the arsenal of any professional drywall finisher. LEVEL5’s drywall compound pump has been made to meet finisher’s demand for reliability, affordability and workability. This beast of a taping tool is built to withstand years of heavy use. In fact, the Level5 compound pump has been tested for over 250,000 cycles without the need or repair, or replacement parts.

If you’re interested in purchasing a compound pump, you can find more information here. And as always, feel free to email, or give us a call and we’d be happy to provide more information!

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Automatic Taping Tools are more powerful and efficient than traditional hand tools. Whether you"re a drywall professional, remodeler, or DIY, automatic taping tools achieve better results in half the time. Drywall Loading Pumps (mud pumps) are compound pumps that use Gooseneck and Box Fillers Adaptors to fill drywall taping and finishing tools. All-Wall offers the largest selection of Loading Pumps from top brands such as TapeTech, Columbia, Asgard, Graco, and Drywall Master.

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We get companies contacting us all the time with products and this is one we got recently. I"m wondering what you think. They have developed what they are calling a "tapeless drywall finish". Its basically a package of fibres that is added to your mud and you use this mud/ fibre mix and weldbond glue to fill all joints. You apply no tape or fibre mesh at all unless you have large gaps like maybe 3/4" or bigger. You then would coat the joints out with 1 -2 more coats in most cases and your ready to sand.

They have been using this with hot mud at the "taping " stage for 10 yrs with great success apparently and have recently redesigned the fibre mix to allow success with premixed mud as well. I have no idea how many jobs this has entailed over those 10 yrs but they guy looks legit in his videos when using the tools you can tell he has been doing drywall for years.

I was watching some Illinois drywall guy"s channel (forgot his name) and he always fills horizontal gaps between horizontally-hung sheets with Durabond. That seems like it would be a good idea. Durabond is hard stuff.

Another YouTube drywall guy I watch, Vancouver Carpenter, makes quickset with a solution of water and a little Weldbond. He basically shakes some glue with water in a plastic drinking bottle and dumps it into the tray with the quickset. He said it"s extra sticky and stronger, and good for repairs and problem spots and skim-coating over traditional plaster and lath (traditional plaster seems to flake joint compound off over time).

I think you can bags of those fiberglass fibers at concrete dealers, I think it"s a standard additive to strengthen concrete. Makes sense it"d work in mud too, I guess?

Never, in my 30 years in the trades have I ever seen or heard of anyone sanding paint between coats when spraying drywall. Back-rolling yes, sanding, no!

Also the part about "a good taper finishing in 2 coats" is also a bit far fetched. I can see this product as a gap filler, as the fiber would help keep the large chunk of mud from cracking out of position, but I wouldn"t trust it over time as a finished surface, meaning without tape.

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Sooner or later, most of us need to patch drywall, whether for purely cosmetic reasons—filling nail holes, for example—or for comfort or safety—say, a hole has left wiring exposed. Although accomplishing the latter requires a greater investment of time, rest assured that a do-it-yourself solution exists, no matter the scale of the repair. Read on for guidelines for patching drywall in small-, medium-, and large-size projects.

The smaller the hole, the easier it is to patch. Start the process by sanding the area smooth. Next, load a bit of spackling paste onto your putty knife and apply the product directly to the hole. Work in enough of the paste so that it leaves a small mound over the hole, then press the flat side of the knife firmly against the mound in order to flatten it. Finally, swipe the blade in a broad motion across the repaired area, leaving the filled-in hole perfectly level with the finished drywall. Allow the spackling sufficient time to dry. Dry times vary, so refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for an accurate estimate. Sand lightly when dry.

If you want to patch a somewhat larger hole—an area with a diameter of one or two inches—the process becomes slightly more complicated, if only because it involves a material you might not have on hand: mesh tape. (You can buy mesh tape either as a roll or as a precut square.) After sanding the area to be patched, completely cover it with mesh. This now becomes the base to which you’ll add joint compound, a product that goes on like spackling paste but achieves a stronger result. As you spread the joint compound, pay special attention to the seams where the mesh tape meets the surrounding drywall. Once you can no longer see the tape, use the putty knife to flatten the mounded joint compound, then scrape the surface in wide, smooth side-to-side movements that create an even finish. Finally, allow the joint compound to dry for about eight hours—consult the manufacturer’s directions—before sanding and repainting the wall.

A larger patch involves a commensurately greater commitment of time and effort to complete. In fact, the patching process here is not very different from the one that was used to install your drywall in the first place. Begin by using a drywall saw to cut evenly around the problem area. You should be left with a hole that’s rectangular in shape; use a utility knife to clean up the edges, if necessary. If possible—and to do this, you may need to make the hole larger than seems strictly necessary—make your hole big enough to expose one of the wall studs. Failing that, you’ll need to run a wooden member horizontally between the two closest studs. Why? You’re going to fill the hole in the wall with a piece of new drywall, and that piece needs a surface to which it can be securely attached.

Next, use a drywall saw to cut out a section of the drywall panel you’ve procured either from the surplus in your garage or from the aisles of your local home center. Measure and cut carefully, as the piece must fit perfectly into the rectangle you’ve cut in the wall. Once you’re certain that you’ve got a snug fit, use drywall screws to attach the new drywall to the stud (or horizontal member).

With the drywall patch firmly in place, apply mesh tape over all the seams between the patch and the existing drywall. Then load up your putty knife with joint compound and proceed to cover the mesh completely. (Don’t forget to smooth compound over the drywall screws, too.) Use the blade of the putty knife to flatten out the compound in any spots where it’s mounded, then scrape across the seams in wide strokes, either side-to-side or top-to-bottom, depending on the orientation of the mesh. Allow the compound to dry for about eight hours before you begin the final stage: sanding the patched area and repainting the freshly repaired drywall.

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Generally, you can spray drywall mud through a paint sprayer. And it is the quickest method for a big project. However, it is an expensive method. You need little skill to spray the mud. You also should know how to operate the machine.

Yes, you can spray drywall mud. And you can easily spray each surface very equally and fast. But if you don’t do it properly, the mud doesn’t adhere properly. Before spraying drywall mud, make your surface ready.

Additionally, you should take care of some other factors. Example: what quality is mud, mud combine ratio with water, how to set up sprayer, what manufacturer says, dry time, and more.

A general pump sprayer can not work for drywall mud. The mud is sticky. So the pump needs very high pressure. Like 40-60 psi. A normal sprayer can not produce this type of high pressure.

HILTEX 31229 Air Texture Hopper Gun is one of the best spray guns for this type of project. This sprayer comes with a 5 Liter hopper cap where you put the mud for spray.

First, take 1 kg compound in a bucket and put 50 ml of water then mixed the compound with a drill mixer. Then if you see mud is not ok, apply more than 50 ml of water and use the deal mixer. Follow this same method again and again until the mud is not ready.

Before the spay work, you should cover unnecessary areas like Windows, Doors, furniture, etc., and use tape on the wall or corner where you are not want to spay. The mud easily will stick to the surface, and it will be damaging to looks.

Take a 5-gallon bucket. Put the compound/mud there. You need little water and should be careful about it. Take very little water one time like 50 ml for 1 kg compound. Then use the mud mixer drill for blending. Then, if you see the mud thickness is not ready, again use 50 ml of water and blend it. Repeat this process until your mud thickness is not ready.

Take an air sprayer and the pot will fill with mud. Take air compressor power 40 psi. However, you see the sprayer not spraying properly increases the power of the compressor.

After spraying the mud, all surfaces are not smooth, and some spots can have no spray mud properly. So take a scraper. Apply it for making very surfaces equal.

To spray drywall mud, you need to take care of something. Because this is the final step for priming. Following the below step, you can successfully complete this project.

If your test is okay now you can start to spray mod on the wall. Keep a distance of 18 to 20 inches from the wall to the sprayer. Maintain the same distance when you spray all over the wall. Spray tine coat. Use a wet mil thickness gauge to count the thickness of the mud. If you finish spraying all over the surface, give it time to dry like 6-12 hours.

After drying the first coat of spray mud, now is the time to apply the second coat. You do not need to follow any specific method for creating a second mud. You can use the first apply mud in the second coat.

Drywall mud has come for Indoor work. If the wood wall does not deal with water, it is possible to spray mud on the wood wall surface, and it works very well.

Now you know you can spray drywall mud through a paint sprayer. And how to do it. If you are a beginner, I suggest that before you spray, you should take short practice. It will help you avoid any mistakes and make your project successful.