drywall mud pump made in china

In this article you will find my buying guide: the key point about even the best drywall primer does not need to have a lot of stain-blocking firepower (explained below). It simply seals and preps for the topcoat.

In my 30+ years as a pro, I’ve found the easiest painting is applying drywall primer. It’s a breeze. It goes on easily and as long as you do not leave drips, it dries flat and you don’t need to worry about looks. Here I highly recommend any top brand: avoid the no name brands.

Water (or other) stains? Drywall primer won’t block them. Kilz Original is the go-to stain blocking primer check this very good product. Another really great deal is Zinsser Cover Stain. Less expensive than others, but will probably handle any water stain in one coat .

The drywall paper and the drywall compound (“mud”) are both porous surfaces butthey absorb paint at different rates. If you do not equalize them with a primer made for this new wall, you will see the difference and it looks sloppy.

You can always apply drywall compound to a crack, wait for it to dry and re-sand. We normally use  quick-dry spackle or and caulk that are fairly quick to dry and both that don’t shrink.

After the joint compound is all sanded, the first thing to do is to dry brush the dust off the walls (it clings). This brush fits on your paint pole or broomstick.  Then, without stirring up too much dust, gently sweep the floor. You can use a little Shop-Vac with a paper filter, (not your house vac: it will die), then mop the floor. (read about the types of drywall vacuum sanders here),

Does new drywall require 3 coats? Mostly yes, and the first must be a drywall primer sealer. There is good news coming below, however about that primer.

Having said that, painting brand new walls is the only time I’d consider using a paint and primer in one, which may save you one coat of paint. See the section onPaint and Primer in One below. This is definitely not the best drywall primer, but it will do. If you do, buy quality paint and primer in one: use Kilz, a very good name in the drywall sealer world, and a very good paint and primer in one. I trust Kilz’s product, it is also aprimer with low VOCs. It comes in many colors and sheens.

For you traditional 3-coaters (like me), the first good news is that you don’t have to buy some exotic or expensive primer (assuming you have no mold or stains) for priming drywalls. You don’t need oil-based primer either. The best primer for new drywall are the low-cost primers, as they containonly what is needed: a normal drywall sealer does not need ingredients to seal stains, odors, mold, etc.

If your unpainted drywall has been waiting for a long time, especially in a basement, it may have sprouted some mold or mildew. In this case, you’ll need a little more firepower. If so, you’ll need to read the last section of this post.

Why not just put on 2 coats of paint? One word: Flashing. Because you will see the seams (and screw holes, tape, and corner bead) where the (1) joint compound a.k.a. ‘mud’ meets the (2) paper that is the outer face of the rock. The paper and the drywall compound are different surfaces andthey absorb paint at different rates You could apply 5 coats and still have flashing without a good drywall primer. Now you see that a drywall primer sealer means: it seals the pores so they all absorb alike.

Yours Truly learned the hard way: I know you can end up with terrible flashing! So the drywall primer sealer is designed with just the right sealants so there will be no difference in sheen or color changes in your finish paint.

Some painters say leftover flat (and only flat) paint is as good as the best drywall primer and will give a good result. No buddy. This does not work out but I need to make the job perfect: perhaps you don’t.

More good news: you do not have to apply a normal heavy coat of paint as you will with your topcoats; you just need to give the new wall a drink, and the job is done. Get the can of primer well shaken (or stirred, Mr. Bond). This coat can be very fast: you will be done in half the time of painting one of your topcoats. Calculate that into your expected quantity (but all paint seller accept unopened cans in return). Even the very best drywall primer does not have to be a heavy coat: just a film will do.

Probably ok for your home use, but I cannot say for sure that with paint and primer in one you will not see the difference in the sections of the wall: joints vs. paper, but feel free to try. It is not the best drywall primer solution, but for walls in good new condition, some paints do promise to equalize the surfaces at the same time they leave your color.

I understand you may be very tempted because you have painted before and you want to cut out a whole coat. But remember that the result will not be the same as a traditional 3-coat job using the best primer for drywall. Here a more complete post on paint and primer in one.

No, you probably need a shellac in our first coat product. Most wood will have sap (which will bleed through a simple primer like drywall primer and every coat of paint you put on after that. Also, the wood’s tree rings that absorb at different rates (the dark ring vs the light ring). Why is that bad? The softer ring will expand differently as the primer dries and you will not be left with a smooth surface. We use  BIN alcohol-based primer (liquid quart),a white pigmented shellac, when priming almost all woods. For that, you need rubbing alcohol for clean-up. Good to have the spray can (shown) also.

Especially with drywall, you will find that the ‘mud’ and the paper of the main sections dry at different speeds. You can easily tell when the last of the primer is dry, usually an hour or two. Don’t rush this step! All drywall primers are relatively fast drying.

Some paint makers will say you must paint within 48 hours after letting the primer dry, but I have never seen any problem waiting longer with the best drywall primer. Dust clinging to the wall while you delay is the only real problem: just use a broom and vacuum and/or mop (see above).

Not really. Some high hiding primers exist and they will fill more cracks than other primers, but at what cost? Drywall primer is cheap so we just fill cracks by hand. If you do manage to have some very small cracks go away after painting, you will find they re-crack quickly in time.

How can I achieve a “Level 5 Drywall finish”?You may have heard of different levels of finish, including Level 5 drywall (the smoothest) or skim coating, and so on. A great website for all you ever need to know and more is drywall101.com.It’s all well described on youtube: if you can afford it, this is the very best drywall for your home. This goes beyond the best drywall primer for sure.

So if see mold and you have started painting, you must stop seal it as soon as you see it. Try my system of buying a cheap paintbrush, cutting the handle so it fits in a small jar. Pour some of your primer in that jar and use that for your spot priming. The best primer for drywall, in this case, is the BIN we mentioned above. (Read about mold resistant paint).

See pump sprayers on this page. We recommend one thatcan also handle spraying light stains for your deck next time it needs it. Or click on the image for a low-budget one.

Here is the way we use primer in situations when we are not sure what kind of stain-blocking power we need: start with the lesser primers like the best drywall primer and if anything bleeds through, hit the spots with the heavy-duty primer.  This would apply to the best drywall primer, which may not have the power to block some discoloration.

What’s special about these drywall joint compound knives is that they have a full-length internal tang that has been robotically welded at four points of contact for extreme durability. The handles feature welded seams that are polished to a mirror finish.

The blades feature a hollow grind that provides a flex point midway up the blade instead of near the handle, which is said to give the drywall knives a broken-in feel with the first use. Level 5 says that this will give users a better feel for faster application rates, optimum blade control, and smoother finishes.

The Level 5 drywall tools have a lifetime guarantee, and the Dewalt versions are similarly guaranteed against defects in workmanship for as long as you own the tools.

I don’t do enough work with drywall joint compound to make a convincing argument for or against these one-piece drywall knives. But, with stainless steel handles I’d imagine they’re lighter than tools with solid plastic handles. They’re probably a lot easier to clean, with no grooves or crevices to accumulate compounds or other work materials.

Since the Level 5 and Dewalt-branded drywall knives are both made by Level 5, and the Level 5 versions are each $1 cheaper (at least as of the time of this posting), I can’t see any reason users would be compelled to go with the Dewalt tools. $1 more per tool for a different removable label and differently etched/marked handle?

As for the price difference compared to other drywall knives or finishing tools, it seems that a lot more work goes into forming, welding, and finishing these tools.

These aren’t the first one-piece all-stainless steel drywall tools on the market. Have you one-piece drywall joint compound knives before? Would you try these?

Ripit Tools has developed a series of rubber plugs and adapters that will help you seal, store, and transport your automatic taping tools. This Drywall Mud Pump Boot fits easily over the bottom of the Pump, and prevents the mud inside from drying out. The Ripit Drywall Mud Pump Boot is great for breaks, cleaner transportation, and overnight storage. When using the Ripit Drywall Mud Pump Boot an idle pump will no longer need to placed in a bucket of water to avoid dry-out. The Boot creates a seal that keeps joint compound moist for extended periods of time.Features:Great for overnight storage

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