diy drywall mud pump brands

Automatic Taping Tools are more powerful and efficient than traditional hand tools. Whether you"re a drywall professional, remodeler, or DIY, automatic taping tools achieve better results in half the time. Drywall Loading Pumps (mud pumps) are compound pumps that use Gooseneck and Box Fillers Adaptors to fill drywall taping and finishing tools. All-Wall offers the largest selection of Loading Pumps from top brands such as TapeTech, Columbia, Asgard, Graco, and Drywall Master.

Drywall Master Taping Tools Extended Quick Clean Mud Pump is used to fill automatic taping tools with mud compound. DrywallMaster pump uses gooseneck (sold separately) to fill automatic taper. Box filler (also sold separately) attaches to pump to fill all other finishing tools. Industry exclusive double o-ring head seal on Drywall Master mud pump keeps mud from seeping between head and pump tube for better seal and easier separating, cleaning or maintenance.

Unique dual o-ring head seal keeps mud from getting between head casting and pump tube. This makes pump easier to separate for cleaning or maintenance.

The Loading Pump, with appropriate accessories (Gooseneck and/or Filler Adapter), is used to fill the following tools: Automatic Taper, Corner Applicator/Corner Box, Nail Spotter, and Flat Box. Attach the Gooseneck to fill the Automatic Taper. Attach the Filler Adapter to fill the Nail Spotter, Corner Applicator, and Flat Box. Simply hang the tube of Loading Pump into a bucket of mud, leaving the leg of the Pump on the floor. Attach the appropriate accessory to the pump. Prime the Pump by pumping the handle a couple of times. Now you should be ready to fill your tool.

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When it comes to drywall tools, a compound pump is a workhorse that keeps all drywall finishing and taping tools moving. So, what makes a good drywall pump? Here"s LEVEL5 founder Scott Murray with an overview (or read on to learn more).

LEVEL5’s drywall compound pump has been made to meet finisher’s demand forreliability, affordability and workability. This beast of a taping tool is built to withstand years of heavy use.

We specifically chose to construct our pump out of billet aluminum (instead of less-durable cast aluminum) to give it as rock-solid a build as possible. Using advanced anodization technology, we’ve designed our compound pump to feature outstanding corrosion resistance. This same anodization also makes it more resistant to everyday wear and tear.

The body of the LEVEL5 mud pump is longer to make it compatible with more bucket sizes. Its composite cup seal is designed to be longer lasting than traditional rubber seals used by other major brands. To effectively minimize pump priming we"ve added a precision-molded flapper valve and seal assembly.

The build quality, attention to innovation and 7-Year warranty make this pumpunrivaled in terms of value to the finisher. Combine these with the fact that LEVEL5’s compound pump is among the most affordable on the market and it’s easy to see why our taping tools are setting the industry standard for finishers far and wide.

This drywall mud pump has been built to last, comes ready to go right out of the box and is innovated to fit any drywall finisher’s workflow. We’ve gone above and beyond to make our pump the most workable on the market.

No doubt the ability to clean, repair and maintain your drywall tools plays a big role in which taping tools you choose to invest in. We’ve built the LEVEL5 drywall pump to be extremely easy to take apart and rebuild thanks to heavy-duty grenade pins and easy-release latches on its tube and handle.

To help make tool maintenance second nature, we’ve created a built-in wrench mount to ensure quick access to your wrench that comes included with every purchase of a LEVEL5 drywall compound pump. Once you’ve mastered how to take apart and maintain your pump, you’ll never be without one on the job.

To help ensure that your LEVEL5 mud pump is ready to go right out of the box, we include afreebox filler valvewith every purchase. This filler valve is quickly and easily swapped out with our gooseneck so that you can go from filling flat boxes to filling your automatic taper seamlessly.

It’s important to note that the LEVEL5 drywall compound pump is not compatible with goosenecks from other manufacturers due to the pump’s extended length. The LEVEL5 Gooseneck (4-714) has been specifically designed for use with this pump.

Here at LEVEL5 we know you want a pump that’s dependable, affordable and easy to maintain. Our pump’s innovative design features, premium build materials and 7-Year warranty provide unsurpassed value to the finisher.

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The LEVEL5 Drywall Mud Pump is used to fill automatic taping & finishing tools via the box filler valve or gooseneck attachments. This pump’s innovative design features, premium build materials and 7-Year warranty make it the cornerstone of taping tool arsenals worldwide.

Drywall finishers worldwide rely on LEVEL5’s Drywall Compound Pump to be the backbone of their automatic taping tool arsenal. Lab tested to more than 250,000 cycles without needing replacement parts or repair and anodized for extreme durability and easy cleaning, you can depend on our pump to keep your tools primed and ready to go, seven days a week.

Last time you visited the local hardware store or big box home improvement store like the Home Depot® or Lowes® looking for drywall mud you may have been puzzled by the variety. Do all joint compounds work the same or should you use a certain type of mud for certain applications?

Let"s discuss the two basic categories of drywall mud. Then we can discuss the choices within each category. This article is not meant as a review of any brand or recommendation of a certain product line, rather this is a general discussion that applies to several different brands of drywall compound.

Quick set drywall mud comes in powdered form usually in plastic lined paper bags. The plastic lining keeps moisture out and preserves freshness. Keeping the powdered mud dry is critical. When water comes in contact with hot mud it begins an irreversible chemical reaction that causes the mud to harden.

Once quick set drywall mud hardens you cannot reuse it. If a bag of hot mud contains even a few small pieces of hardened mud, it can render the entire bag unusable. Hardened lumps of hot mud cause scratches in drywall seams and make it very difficult to create truly smooth finishes.

When it comes to hot-mud, there is a difference between hardening and drying. Hot mud hardens as a result of a chemical reaction. Manufacturers mix different amounts of hardening agents into the material causing it to set up at different times.

Hot mud is packaged according to the time it takes to harden. For example, quick set drywall mud is sold in packages labeled 5-minute, 20-minute, 45-minute, 90-minute or higher. This refers to the length of time it takes from when the powder comes in contact with water to when it hardens and can be re-coated.

Actual working time is generally less than the time listed. For example, 45-minute hot mud may begin to set up in 30-35 minutes. Hot dry conditions can cause 5-minute mud to set before you even get a chance to spread it on your patch.

The working time can vary slightly depending on a few factors. High humidity or cooler temperatures causes hot mud to take longer to set. If you need quick set drywall powder to set up faster than normal, mixing it with hot water instead of cold will usually do the trick.

Remember, the time associated with quick set drywall compound is the hardening time, not the drying time. For instance, even though 45-minute hot mud may harden within 45 minutes, it can take several hours to dry completely depending on ambient temperature and humidity levels.

When using hot mud you will notice it turn from dark grey to white. The mud is not considered completely dry until it turns completely white in appearance. Unlike traditional drywall compound, it does not shrink as it dries, so it is possible to add additional coats of hot mud before it has completely dried. It is best however, not to paint over hot mud until it has completely dried.

Quick set drywall mud is great for small patch jobs where you don"t want to wait 24 hours before applying a second coat. Hot mud is also used on large drywall jobs for bedding-in mesh drywall tape. This allows the pros to tape and first coat seams all within the first day on a job.

Many pros feel that quick set mud provides a stronger base coat and therefore protects better against cracking. Because of this, some use it as a first coat when finishing corner bead.

Most pros agree that when you use mesh drywall tape, you should always use quick set mud as a first coat. Mesh tape does not provide a strong a bond with the drywall paper and therefore needs the added strength of hot mud. Some manufacturers recommend using quick set compound when choosing mesh tape.

Quick set drywall mud is rarely used as a finish coat. Quick set mud is more difficult to sand than "lightweight all purpose" mud which makes it very difficult to create truly smooth surfaces. Even when hot mud is used for coating patches, a skim coat of lightweight all purpose mud is often used to finish the patch.

There are several brands of quick set drywall mud. The pros all have their preferred brands and different reasons for each. Two popular brands are USG SHEETROCK® brand EZ-sand and Gold Bond® brand Pro Form® quick set drywall mud.

Why is it called "hot" mud? We cannot say for certain how it got that name but there are a couple of possibilities. As hot mud hardens, the chemical reaction creates a small amount of heat which may be a reason some people call it hot mud. Or, it could simply come from the fact that you have to move quickly because it will harden up on you if you don"t finish within its specified time.

Sometimes you will hear hot mud referred to as Durabond®. Durabond® is a trademarked name that refers specifically to a product made by USG®. It was one of the first types of quick set drywall mud that was used extensively in the workplace and for this reason the name became closely associated with quick set drywall mud.

Durabond® is similar to Sheetrock® in that it is simply a brand name that has become popular over the years. Most tradesmen these days prefer types of quick set drywall mud that are easier to work with and easier to sand than Durabond®. But in some areas, all brands of hot mud are referred to as Durabond®.

Pre-mixed drywall mud is sold in either 4.5 gallon buckets or in boxes (cartons) containing a plastic bag of mud. Most often, the boxes of mud are also 4.5 gallons in volume but occasionally you will find 3.5 gallon boxes. Therefore, if you see a box of drywall mud that seems cheeper than most, make sure to check the volume. Pre-mixed drywall mud is, as the name indicates, pre-mixed and ready to use.

Pre-mixed drywall mud is almost always thinned with water before using. The amount of water used depends on how the mud will be applied. For example, bedding in tape requires a thinner than normal consistency.

A thin consistency is also needed when using automatic taping tools to allow a smooth flow of mud through the drywall mud pump. However, if it is too thin, it will be difficult to spread and will shrink back, creating voids. Texture mud is the thinnest of all. It takes time and training to understand what consistency of mud should be used with each application.

When shopping for drywall mud you may notice different types of pre-mixed mud. The three most commonly used are "all purpose", "lightweight all purpose" and "topping". There are of course several other types of joint compound available however these are the most common.

All purpose drywall mud, as the name indicates, is made for all applications. All purpose mud has bonding agents that increase the holding power of drywall tape so it is good for bedding in seams. It is sometimes used to first coat seams and corner beads.

Lightweight all purpose drywall mud, as the name indicates, is made for all applications yet is lighter in weight than all purpose mud. Many pros believe that lightweight joint compound contains less binding agents and therefore is inferior when taping seams. However, it is hard to know for sure since manufacturers don"t openly publish comprehensive lists of drywall mud ingredients. Lightweight compound is often used for first and second coat of seams and corner bead. It is almost always used as a finish coat because of its ease of sanding.

Topping compound is used less often then all purpose or lightweight mud. It can be used to top coat seams and corner bead. It is not recommended for taping joints. Topping compound is whiter in color than all purpose and even whiter than lightweight all purpose. One common use for topping mud is texture applications.

Generally speaking, all types of drywall mud are compatible with one another. Joint compounds can be used over each other but most manufacturers do not recommend mixing the compounds together. It is always the best practice to refer to the manufacturer"s specific recommendations.

What"s equally as important as your automatic taping and finishing tools? You need a reliable mud pump. The drywall compound pump, or mud pump, is necessary to quickly fill your automatic tools such as a flat box or automatic taping tool, and keep the job moving with minimal delay. Without a reliable pump, you’ll be spending more time fiddling with a pump that is difficult to clean, or worse, resorting to hand-filling your tools, which is time consuming, and counter productive.

No pump = no tools, so you need a workhorse that will withstand a lot, and get through your workday, every time. TheLevel5 Drywall Compound Pumpis constructed of billet aluminum, making it much stronger, and more durable than your typical cast aluminum construction.

Another important quality is resistance to corrosion. Tools built of poor quality and materials are prone to rust and corrosion. The anodization on the Level5 Drywall compound pump makes it highly resistant to corrosion, as well as wear and tear!

A good seal is important too! Typically for compound pumps, a rubber seal is used, but the problem with rubber is that it will slowly deteriorate, and before you know it, you’re leaking all over the place. The Level5 Drywall Compound Pump uses a composite urethane cup seal, which provides much longer wear life vs. the traditional rubber seals.

Working with mud can be messy, and when you’re on the job, it"s important to be able to easily clean and maintain your compound pump. You should not be spending any extra time fiddling with small screws or components to clean your pump, or to switch valves.

That’s why the Level5 Compound pump has easy clean features, like grenade pins and easy-release latches on its tube and handle. It also comes with a wrench, and a built-in wrench mount so that you are always prepared to switch from gooseneck to box-filler valve, or make a quick adjustment with ease.

Theoretically, yes you can, but it"s a slow process, and at which point you may be better off hand finishing, as you will impede the speed of the work. The combination of your automatic tools and your mud pump will pay for itself fairly quickly by the speed and quality job that you can achieve.

We think the Level5 Drywall Compound Pump is the best drywall mud pump on the market, and truly the underestimated workhorse in the arsenal of any professional drywall finisher. LEVEL5’s drywall compound pump has been made to meet finisher’s demand for reliability, affordability and workability. This beast of a taping tool is built to withstand years of heavy use. In fact, the Level5 compound pump has been tested for over 250,000 cycles without the need or repair, or replacement parts.

If you’re interested in purchasing a compound pump, you can find more information here. And as always, feel free to email, or give us a call and we’d be happy to provide more information!

“Mudding,” the process of applying multiple thin coats of drywall compound to the joints and screw indentations in newly hung drywall, sounds messy, and it is. When done correctly, the result is a wall so flat that you cannot spot the seams.

While professional drywall tapers make mudding look easy, do-it-yourselfers find that it takes practice, skill, and—of course—the right gear (in this case, the mud itself and the tape that prevents cracks from appearing in the seams). This guide to how to mud drywall outlines the materials required for the job, and walks DIYers through the process step by step.

There are two main types of drywall mud: premixed and powdered. There are variations on each type, too, which can make it tough to choose the right product for your job. Here’s the lowdown on the types of drywall mud you might find at the home improvement store:

Premixed joint compound is just that: The mud has already been mixed with water to a smooth consistency and is ready to be applied. Within this category, you’ll find all-purpose mud, topping mud, and lightweight all-purpose mud.All-purpose mud goes on smoothly and usually begins to harden in a couple of hours, depending on the temperature and humidity in the room. It’s suitable for all mudding applications, and is the best drywall mud for beginners.

Topping mudis used as a final top coating. It dries to a bright white and is easy to sand, making it a good choice for walls that will be painted a light color. Topping mud has fewer adhesion properties than all-purpose mud, so it’s not suitable for first and second coats.

Lightweight all-purpose mud also dries to a lighter hue, which makes it suitable for walls that will be painted a light color. Some pros use all-purpose mud for the first mudding application and then switch to lightweight all-purpose mud for the second and third applications.

Powdered drywall mud, also called “setting mud” or “hot mud,” contains chemicals that hasten hardening time when water is added to the powder. This type of mud tends to shrink less than all-purpose premixed mud, but it hardens very quickly. Quick-setting mud works well for pre-filling large gaps in walls, or smoothing over crushed drywall corners before starting the actual mudding process.Timed drywall mud: Setting mud is labeled by the maximum amount of time you have to work with it before it hardens. You can choose from 5-minute mud, 20-minute mud, or longer-hardening times, depending on your needs. If you use setting mud, mix only as much as you need, and wash your tools frequently as you work.

Easy-to-sand setting mud: The chemicals in some types of hot mud harden into rock-like ridges on your walls, and you can spend hours trying to sand them smooth. Avoid this by choosing an easy-to-sand variety.

During the mudding process, tape acts as a bond to keep the finished wall from developing cracks along the drywall seams. The different types of tape are paper, mesh, and preformed—and all three have their pros and cons.Paper tapeis used almost exclusively by the pros because it’s very thin, which helps create imperceptibly smooth drywall joints. Paper tape comes with a crease down the center that allows you to bend it along the crease to form sharp wall corners. It takes practice, however, to correctly bed paper tape in the first coating of wet mud without creating bubbles underneath.

Mesh tapeis made from fiberglass threads in an open-weave pattern and comes with adhesive on the backside. While it’s fairly simple to position mesh tape over a dry joint and then apply your first coat of mud on top, mesh tape is thicker than paper tape and can result in more noticeable joints when the wall is painted.

Primed with an understanding of mudding materials, it’s time to familiarize yourself with the process as outlined here. Because paper tape offers the most professional results, we’ll detail how to mud sheetrock using paper tape. If you’re using mesh tape, you’ll find some tips below that will help you use it correctly.

Cover the floor with a canvas drop cloth (plastic drop cloths can become dangerously slick) and don goggles and old clothing. Mudding is a messy process, and splatters can sting if they get in your eyes.

Remove the lid from the bucket of premixed mud. If using powdered setting mud, mix as recommended by the manufacturer, beating until smooth with a heavy duty drill fitted with a paddle bit.

Drywall panels come with slight bevels on both of their long sides. When the bevels are fitted together, they form a small indentation, about 2 inches wide, along the joints. Use the 6-inch taping knife to smooth and work the mud evenly into the joint, filling the entire indentation and wiping away excess mud.

Cut and fit a piece of paper tape over the joint while the mud is still wet for a process called “bedding.” Use the 6-inch taping knife to gently smooth the paper onto the wet mud, working out bubbles as you go. Wipe away excess mud with the knife.

With the 6-inch knife, apply a thin coat of mud to both sides of an inside corner, making sure to work it all the way into the center. Cut, fold, and fit a strip of pre-creased paper tape in the corner over the wet mud. Smooth the paper tape carefully in the wet mud, using either a 6-inch taping knife or an inside-corner taping tool that features a preformed 90-degree shape for easy bedding. Use light stroking movements to bed the tape without dislodging it from the corner. Wipe excess mud from the walls.

If using preformed tape corners, attach them as recommended by the manufacturer, and then smooth mud over the corners, using long vertical strokes on both sides to form a sharp, uniform corner.

You can avoid butt joints, which occur when un-tapered ends of a drywall panel are fitted together, by using sheets of drywall that span the entire room. But if dealing with ends that have no beveled indentations, it’s more challenging to get a smooth finish. Mud them as you did the beveled joints, taking care to use only as much mud as necessary to fill the joint and bed the tape.

Let all the mud dry before applying the next coat. Apply a second coat of mud to the screw indentations, beveled joints, and inside and outside corners in the same order as the first coat—only this time, use only mud. No need to add more tape! Just apply a thin layer of mud and wipe off all excess.

To do a second coat for butt joints, take the 10-inch taping knife, apply two swaths of mud, approximately 8 inches wide, along both sides of the first joint coat, but not on top of the original joint. This imperceptibly builds up the wall depth over a wider area to reduce the appearance of a bulky butt-joint seam. Feather out the edges of the swaths well with the knife for a smooth look.

Apply a third very thin coat of mud after the second coat dries. Use the 10-inch knife for all screw indentations, seams, and corners. The wider knife allows you to feather out the edges of the mud to a razor-thin application. Follow the same procedure for beveled joints and corners as before. On butt joints, apply a thin coat of mud over the previous swaths and the original mud joint. It’s not unusual for the mud swath on butt joints to be 2 feet wide or wider.

When the mud dries, apply one last thin coat only over the butt joints. Feather out the edges very well and let the mud dry. Before moving onto the final step, an important question to ask is, “How long does drywall mud take to dry?” Approximately 24 hours is the answer for most types of drywall mud, but refer to your product’s label for specifics on drying time.

Don your respirator mask and goggles prior to sanding. Use a drywall pole sander or, if it’s important to keep airborne dust at a minimum, rent a power drywall sander from your local construction rental store. Sand all joints and nail indentations until the wall is perfectly smooth. Now you’re ready to paint or wallpaper!

Unlike paper tape that requires bedding in wet mud, self-adhesive mesh tape is applied over seams and then, when mud is applied, an adequate amount seeps through the mesh into the seam beneath. The order of taping is the same: Do screw indentations and beveled joints first, inside and outside corners next, and butt joints last. If you use mesh tape on flat joints, note that it’s not suitable for corners. Use pre-creased paper tape for inside corners and preformed tape for outside corners.