diy drywall mud pump made in china

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Green Builder:What progress has been made in the drywall mix over the past decade and is it any safer for workers. Could USG address some of the health concerns from this 1998 study, which says:

"A study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) has shown that "nuisance dust" from joint-compound mud used in drywall work can contain toxic materials. And, there can be dangerously high amounts of dust from sanding and other drywall work.

NIOSH conducted a Health Hazard Evaluation of dust and toxic exposures to 10 renovation workers at 2 sites doing drywall finishing. Measuring the air the workers were breathing, NIOSH found 9 of 10 total-dust samples at higher levels than limits set by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). More important, 2 of 13 samples of respirable (breathable) dust were above the limits OSHA says are safe. Two samples contained respirable silica. Silica can cause crippling and fatal lung diseases.

"The health effects associated with long-term chronic airborne exposure to the dust or particulates generated during drywall sanding are not known," the report said, adding that even when the dust amounts are within recommended limits, they may not be safe. This is especially true, the report said, when parts of the dusts are known to have a "biologic effect."

I’m writing to you in response to your February 10, 2016, article that features USG’s joint treatment products titled “How Green is Drywall Joint Compound? Looking Deeper into Materials and Health Risks.”We were disappointed that many of the important points that we shared with you on February 5, 2016, were not reflected in the article.

To appreciate all that has been done to mitigate health risks to drywall finishers, you need to look at not only our joint treatment products, but also at our wallboard on which the joint treatment is applied. Finishing wallboard joints takes time, and the labor cost for this task is far greater than the cost of the actual materials themselves. Drywall contractors don’t want to finish more joints than they have to, and for the joints that are necessary, they want to spend as little time as possible on finishing.

In other words, manufacturers, drywall contractors, health and safety professionals and the finishers themselves all share the same goal: to reduce time spent finishing joints, thereby reducing their exposure to any resulting dust from the finishing process. Over the decades, as a manufacturer of gypsum panels, we have helped achieve that goal:

I’d also like to point out that we have recommended the job practice of wet sanding joint‐treated areas for many years and we would be happy to send you some of our literature on the topic. While we know that wet sanding is not a universal practice among the drywall finishing trades that use our products, it has important advantages in terms of significantly reducing and/or eliminating respirable dust from the sanding operation. For this reason, we continue to recommend it as we have for many years. We provide the following product safety recommendations to our customers on all of our products:

Editor"s Note: We are not required to obtain rights when commenting on a photograph in the context of a news article. Since this was a journalistic article making a critical observation about the photo and its presentation, not a promotional piece, use of the photograph was within our legal rights. You are correct, however, that this is NOT a USG photo, nor is this a practice recommended or condoned by USG. In fact, that"s the point of the photo and caption, to show how not all contractors and third-party manufacturers represent drywall sanding safely.

I hope this helps clear up some of misconceptions you may have of USG, our joint treatment products, as well as what we have done as the market leader for more than 100 years as the leader in addressing the safety concerns of the professional finishers and DIYers that proudly purchase and use our products each and every day. I will personally follow‐up with you to ensure that you received this correspondence, to answer any outstanding questions you may have, and to offer our access to our subject matter experts for further discussion/opportunity to interview. In the meantime, I’ve included my contact information below.

In this article you will find my buying guide: the key point about even the best drywall primer does not need to have a lot of stain-blocking firepower (explained below). It simply seals and preps for the topcoat.

In my 30+ years as a pro, I’ve found the easiest painting is applying drywall primer. It’s a breeze. It goes on easily and as long as you do not leave drips, it dries flat and you don’t need to worry about looks. Here I highly recommend any top brand: avoid the no name brands.

Water (or other) stains? Drywall primer won’t block them. Kilz Original is the go-to stain blocking primer check this very good product. Another really great deal is Zinsser Cover Stain. Less expensive than others, but will probably handle any water stain in one coat .

The drywall paper and the drywall compound (“mud”) are both porous surfaces butthey absorb paint at different rates. If you do not equalize them with a primer made for this new wall, you will see the difference and it looks sloppy.

You can always apply drywall compound to a crack, wait for it to dry and re-sand. We normally use  quick-dry spackle or and caulk that are fairly quick to dry and both that don’t shrink.

After the joint compound is all sanded, the first thing to do is to dry brush the dust off the walls (it clings). This brush fits on your paint pole or broomstick.  Then, without stirring up too much dust, gently sweep the floor. You can use a little Shop-Vac with a paper filter, (not your house vac: it will die), then mop the floor. (read about the types of drywall vacuum sanders here),

Does new drywall require 3 coats? Mostly yes, and the first must be a drywall primer sealer. There is good news coming below, however about that primer.

Having said that, painting brand new walls is the only time I’d consider using a paint and primer in one, which may save you one coat of paint. See the section onPaint and Primer in One below. This is definitely not the best drywall primer, but it will do. If you do, buy quality paint and primer in one: use Kilz, a very good name in the drywall sealer world, and a very good paint and primer in one. I trust Kilz’s product, it is also aprimer with low VOCs. It comes in many colors and sheens.

For you traditional 3-coaters (like me), the first good news is that you don’t have to buy some exotic or expensive primer (assuming you have no mold or stains) for priming drywalls. You don’t need oil-based primer either. The best primer for new drywall are the low-cost primers, as they containonly what is needed: a normal drywall sealer does not need ingredients to seal stains, odors, mold, etc.

If your unpainted drywall has been waiting for a long time, especially in a basement, it may have sprouted some mold or mildew. In this case, you’ll need a little more firepower. If so, you’ll need to read the last section of this post.

Why not just put on 2 coats of paint? One word: Flashing. Because you will see the seams (and screw holes, tape, and corner bead) where the (1) joint compound a.k.a. ‘mud’ meets the (2) paper that is the outer face of the rock. The paper and the drywall compound are different surfaces andthey absorb paint at different rates You could apply 5 coats and still have flashing without a good drywall primer. Now you see that a drywall primer sealer means: it seals the pores so they all absorb alike.

Yours Truly learned the hard way: I know you can end up with terrible flashing! So the drywall primer sealer is designed with just the right sealants so there will be no difference in sheen or color changes in your finish paint.

Some painters say leftover flat (and only flat) paint is as good as the best drywall primer and will give a good result. No buddy. This does not work out but I need to make the job perfect: perhaps you don’t.

More good news: you do not have to apply a normal heavy coat of paint as you will with your topcoats; you just need to give the new wall a drink, and the job is done. Get the can of primer well shaken (or stirred, Mr. Bond). This coat can be very fast: you will be done in half the time of painting one of your topcoats. Calculate that into your expected quantity (but all paint seller accept unopened cans in return). Even the very best drywall primer does not have to be a heavy coat: just a film will do.

Probably ok for your home use, but I cannot say for sure that with paint and primer in one you will not see the difference in the sections of the wall: joints vs. paper, but feel free to try. It is not the best drywall primer solution, but for walls in good new condition, some paints do promise to equalize the surfaces at the same time they leave your color.

I understand you may be very tempted because you have painted before and you want to cut out a whole coat. But remember that the result will not be the same as a traditional 3-coat job using the best primer for drywall. Here a more complete post on paint and primer in one.

Yes, and we do this in large newly constructed rooms. This means renting or buying a DIY airless sprayer, but it can save loads of time. That Graco is quite a reasonable price, and you can re-sell for half of the cost when you are done! This is especially fast for highly textured walls and ceilings.

No, you probably need a shellac in our first coat product. Most wood will have sap (which will bleed through a simple primer like drywall primer and every coat of paint you put on after that. Also, the wood’s tree rings that absorb at different rates (the dark ring vs the light ring). Why is that bad? The softer ring will expand differently as the primer dries and you will not be left with a smooth surface. We use  BIN alcohol-based primer (liquid quart),a white pigmented shellac, when priming almost all woods. For that, you need rubbing alcohol for clean-up. Good to have the spray can (shown) also.

Especially with drywall, you will find that the ‘mud’ and the paper of the main sections dry at different speeds. You can easily tell when the last of the primer is dry, usually an hour or two. Don’t rush this step! All drywall primers are relatively fast drying.

Some paint makers will say you must paint within 48 hours after letting the primer dry, but I have never seen any problem waiting longer with the best drywall primer. Dust clinging to the wall while you delay is the only real problem: just use a broom and vacuum and/or mop (see above).

Not really. Some high hiding primers exist and they will fill more cracks than other primers, but at what cost? Drywall primer is cheap so we just fill cracks by hand. If you do manage to have some very small cracks go away after painting, you will find they re-crack quickly in time.

How can I achieve a “Level 5 Drywall finish”?You may have heard of different levels of finish, including Level 5 drywall (the smoothest) or skim coating, and so on. A great website for all you ever need to know and more is drywall101.com.It’s all well described on youtube: if you can afford it, this is the very best drywall for your home. This goes beyond the best drywall primer for sure.

So if see mold and you have started painting, you must stop seal it as soon as you see it. Try my system of buying a cheap paintbrush, cutting the handle so it fits in a small jar. Pour some of your primer in that jar and use that for your spot priming. The best primer for drywall, in this case, is the BIN we mentioned above. (Read about mold resistant paint).

See pump sprayers on this page. We recommend one thatcan also handle spraying light stains for your deck next time it needs it. Or click on the image for a low-budget one.

Here is the way we use primer in situations when we are not sure what kind of stain-blocking power we need: start with the lesser primers like the best drywall primer and if anything bleeds through, hit the spots with the heavy-duty primer.  This would apply to the best drywall primer, which may not have the power to block some discoloration.

Ripit Tools has developed a series of rubber plugs and adapters that will help you seal, store, and transport your automatic taping tools. This Drywall Mud Pump Boot fits easily over the bottom of the Pump, and prevents the mud inside from drying out. The Ripit Drywall Mud Pump Boot is great for breaks, cleaner transportation, and overnight storage. When using the Ripit Drywall Mud Pump Boot an idle pump will no longer need to placed in a bucket of water to avoid dry-out. The Boot creates a seal that keeps joint compound moist for extended periods of time.

Automatic Taping Tools are more powerful and efficient than traditional hand tools. Whether you"re a drywall professional, remodeler, or DIY, automatic taping tools achieve better results in half the time. Drywall Loading Pumps (mud pumps) are compound pumps that use Gooseneck and Box Fillers Adaptors to fill drywall taping and finishing tools. All-Wall offers the largest selection of Loading Pumps from top brands such as TapeTech, Columbia, Asgard, Graco, and Drywall Master.