diy drywall mud pump pricelist

Automatic Taping Tools are more powerful and efficient than traditional hand tools. Whether you"re a drywall professional, remodeler, or DIY, automatic taping tools achieve better results in half the time. Drywall Loading Pumps (mud pumps) are compound pumps that use Gooseneck and Box Fillers Adaptors to fill drywall taping and finishing tools. All-Wall offers the largest selection of Loading Pumps from top brands such as TapeTech, Columbia, Asgard, Graco, and Drywall Master.

When it comes to drywall tools, a compound pump is a workhorse that keeps all drywall finishing and taping tools moving. So, what makes a good drywall pump? Here"s LEVEL5 founder Scott Murray with an overview (or read on to learn more).

LEVEL5’s drywall compound pump has been made to meet finisher’s demand forreliability, affordability and workability. This beast of a taping tool is built to withstand years of heavy use.

We specifically chose to construct our pump out of billet aluminum (instead of less-durable cast aluminum) to give it as rock-solid a build as possible. Using advanced anodization technology, we’ve designed our compound pump to feature outstanding corrosion resistance. This same anodization also makes it more resistant to everyday wear and tear.

The body of the LEVEL5 mud pump is longer to make it compatible with more bucket sizes. Its composite cup seal is designed to be longer lasting than traditional rubber seals used by other major brands. To effectively minimize pump priming we"ve added a precision-molded flapper valve and seal assembly.

The build quality, attention to innovation and 7-Year warranty make this pumpunrivaled in terms of value to the finisher. Combine these with the fact that LEVEL5’s compound pump is among the most affordable on the market and it’s easy to see why our taping tools are setting the industry standard for finishers far and wide.

This drywall mud pump has been built to last, comes ready to go right out of the box and is innovated to fit any drywall finisher’s workflow. We’ve gone above and beyond to make our pump the most workable on the market.

No doubt the ability to clean, repair and maintain your drywall tools plays a big role in which taping tools you choose to invest in. We’ve built the LEVEL5 drywall pump to be extremely easy to take apart and rebuild thanks to heavy-duty grenade pins and easy-release latches on its tube and handle.

To help make tool maintenance second nature, we’ve created a built-in wrench mount to ensure quick access to your wrench that comes included with every purchase of a LEVEL5 drywall compound pump. Once you’ve mastered how to take apart and maintain your pump, you’ll never be without one on the job.

To help ensure that your LEVEL5 mud pump is ready to go right out of the box, we include afreebox filler valvewith every purchase. This filler valve is quickly and easily swapped out with our gooseneck so that you can go from filling flat boxes to filling your automatic taper seamlessly.

It’s important to note that the LEVEL5 drywall compound pump is not compatible with goosenecks from other manufacturers due to the pump’s extended length. The LEVEL5 Gooseneck (4-714) has been specifically designed for use with this pump.

Here at LEVEL5 we know you want a pump that’s dependable, affordable and easy to maintain. Our pump’s innovative design features, premium build materials and 7-Year warranty provide unsurpassed value to the finisher.

Glancing around a home, visitors take in the artwork, photographs, furniture, and even the paint color. The finish on the walls and ceilings underneath the paint doesn’t necessarily draw the eye—unless it’s cracked, slumped, or poorly patched. Drywall is the foundation of most modern walls and ceilings and the replacement product of choice for many older homes. A well-installed smooth or textured surface lets the furnishings and decor in any home shine.

Whether a homeowner is choosing a qualified contractor or learning how to hang drywall themselves, they’ll want to begin with an understanding of the different types of drywall available, the many factors that affect the overall cost of drywall, and the supplies needed to install it. How much does drywall cost? According to Angi and HomeAdvisor, the typical cost of drywall itself is between $12 and $20 per panel, with a national average of $15. Some additional costs are obvious, such as the ones for panels, screws, tape, mud, and joint compound, but other components, such as demolition, transportation, permits, and even the volume of sandpaper needed to get the job done well, might escape notice. In addition, there are several types of drywall available that can provide soundproofing, waterproofing, and fire resistance, along with more basic styles that support tile or shiplap walls. A variety of finishes can complement the style of the home and reduce the cost overall. To make these decisions easier, it’s a good idea for homeowners to calculate the cost of drywall panels and installation.

Calculating the overall cost of installing drywall in a home is a straightforward formula, but it does include a number of variables and decisions on the part of the homeowner. The following formula can help a homeowner calculate the amount of drywall needed for a project and the total cost.Measure the square footage (width times height) of the area that needs to be drywalled, then divide by 32 (if using 4-by-8-foot sheets) or by 48 (if using 4-by-12-foot sheets) to determine how many panels of drywall will be needed.

On average, it will cost between $200 and $300 to purchase enough drywall panels for a 12-foot-by-12-foot room. There are, of course, additional factors in calculating the overall material costs, including the number of odd cuts that create additional waste, corners, and the type and thickness of the panels themselves, but this formula should provide homeowners with a good estimate of how much material they’ll need to get started. It may also be useful for homeowners to plug these numbers into an online drywall calculator for a specific estimate.

While the math of calculating drywall cost is relatively easy to do, there are significant variables in the figured cost of hanging drywall in any given space. Because drywall is used in so many different areas of the home, there are varieties in the shape, thickness, and additional materials incorporated into the panels that create a wide cost range. In addition, regional considerations, including local construction booms, weather and transportation concerns, and even the season, can affect local pricing to make it vastly different from the national average drywall cost. There are some concrete factors, however, that are determined by the homeowner and provide an opportunity to save a little money.

Drywall panels come in standard sizes of 4 feet by 8 feet or 4 feet by 12 feet. Depending on the size and dimensions of the room, one panel size may be more efficient for the space and will create less waste than the other. While 4-by-12-foot sheets are a bit more expensive, the homeowner may need fewer sheets overall if their ceilings are high, which can save money along with time needed for cutting and taping.

The location where drywall is being installed will affect the overall cost. This is due to both the square footage of the room and the type of drywall that will be used. The cost to drywall smaller rooms, such as bathrooms, is lower overall—between $430 and $500—but the price per square foot may be higher. Often, green or purple boards are used instead of standard drywall for bathrooms because they are more moisture-resistant, and this can increase the cost. A room with larger square footage, such as a living room, will cost about $960 to $2,800 to drywall. The cost per square foot for basements and garages may be less because these areas are not typically finished with the same high-quality materials that are used for living spaces.

Drywall is available in four thicknesses: ¼ inch, ⅜ inch, ½ inch, and ⅝ inch, with cost increasing with thickness. The cost for ¼-inch drywall is about $10 to $12 per sheet, and this type is mostly used for repairs to fortify existing walls. The cost of ⅜-inch drywall can run up to $15 per sheet; this type is mostly used when ½-inch drywall is too large for an existing space. Half-inch drywall is ideal for almost all spaces and can cost anywhere between $10 and $20 per sheet. The thickest drywall is ⅝ inch, and this type is almost exclusively used for soundproofing. It costs about $13 to $75 per sheet. Choosing the correct thickness for the project can help lower the overall cost.

Depending on the application of the drywall, hiring a qualified professional drywall hanger may be the best bet. Hanging and finishing drywall are two separate costs: The average cost to hang drywall is $0.15 to $0.65 per square foot. Taping and mudding drywall after it’s hung can range from $0.40 to $0.70 per square foot, while sanding and priming costs between $0.10 and $0.50 per square foot. The cost to finish the drywall ranges from $0.50 to $1.15 per square foot. Combining these costs gives a total drywall installation cost range of $1.15 to $3 per square foot.

Drywall finishing is rated from level 0 to level 5. What follows are the finishing ratings and their typical costs.Level 0. A level 0 finish job means the drywall is screwed into the studs: No mudding or taping has been done. This service costs between $0.30 and $0.80 per square foot.

Level 1. Level 1 includes mudding and taping the seams and costs between $0.70 and $1.50 per square foot for labor. Level 1 is not a complete finish and is common for attics and basements.

Level 4. Level 4 results in drywall that is smoothed, sanded, and primed, but it may have surface imperfections. This finish is a good base for tiling or wallpaper, but is also suitable simply for painting. Level 4 finishing costs between $1 and $3 per square foot.

Level 5. A level 5 drywall finish includes a full, smooth coat of joint compound over the entire wall along with primer that has been sanded. The drywall is ready for even glossy paint, as there are almost no imperfections. Level 5 finishing costs $1.15 to $3.50 per square foot.

Drywall prices can vary greatly depending on a homeowner’s region of the country. Prices tend to be lower in midwestern states. For example, prices in Ohio range from $7.85 to $12.10 per panel, whereas homeowners in California will pay between $11.85 and $19.80 per panel. On the East Coast, drywall costs average about $10.35 to $17.50 per panel.

Surprisingly, it can be more expensive per square foot to drywall a small room than a larger one. Covering a larger area provides more opportunities to use full sheets or scraps to fill interrupted walls, so the overall cost drops. It is least expensive when homeowners decide that hanging drywall in the entire house all at once is the best plan. But the cost isn’t only dependent on the total area mathematically: The number of cuts, fitting, and level of finish will also play into the total. Use (and therefore cost) of finishing materials will increase with a higher number of corners and specialized cuts, as corners require a special bead to be tidy. In addition, some drywall contractors may charge a minimum service fee, which could exceed the actual cost of installing drywall in a small space, so bundling several rooms into one project may help you save overall. This fee may also apply if only a small portion of existing drywall is being patched, which costs about $100 on average.

Having established the cost of the drywall materials needed for a project, homeowners may think they know how much they’re budgeting and are ready to head to the home improvement store to get started—but there are other cost considerations to factor in first.

For new walls, or walls on the exterior of the home that have been fully removed prior to the new drywall being added, homeowners will need to include the cost of materials and installation of insulation to maintain the energy efficiency of the building. Depending on the type of insulation the homeowner chooses, costs can range from $0.65 to $6.50 per square foot.

Applying texture to drywall is a simple way to add visual interest to a room. Texture can be applied to both walls and ceilings in a wide variety of styles depending on the homeowner’s preference. Some textures like Santa Fe and skip trowel have a rustic appearance that is similar to stucco and can be applied by hand. The cost for hand-applied textures is between $1.50 and $2 per square foot. Knockdown and orange peel textures are more subtle and can be applied with a spray. Spray textures are more affordable since they are quicker and easier to apply, and these cost between $0.50 and $1 per square foot.

Drywall panels are available with water resistance, waterproofing, soundproofing, and with and without paper—there is a type of drywall for almost every application, and the costs vary significantly based on which additional features are required.

Do homeowners need a permit to add or replace drywall? In the case of a simple replacement to clean up a damaged wall, probably not. If the drywall project involves plumbing, electrical work, or a load-bearing wall, or if the location of a wall will change, it’s important for homeowners to check with their local municipality to see if a permit and inspection are required.

Drywall is a catchall term that many people use to describe any wallboard product. However, as drywall has become the standard product for wall and ceiling installations, additional styles and formulations have been developed to meet the needs of different purposes and spaces. Each additional component adds to the cost per panel, but it’s important to choose the best panel for the space in which it will be installed.

Regular drywall, which is gypsum board sandwiched between two paper layers for stability, is the least expensive option. It’s fine for most bedroom, living room, and dining room walls where moisture resistance is not a key concern. The price per panel will vary based on the panel size and thickness, but it ranges from $15 to $20.

Green board drywall adds an extra layer of green material on the outside surfaces of the board, making it water-resistant. Ideal for areas in the home where moisture may be a concern, but not for walls that need to be completely waterproof, green board is often used in kitchens or where it will be covered with tiles and grout. Green board comes in a standard 4-by-8-foot size, and costs range from $14 to $18 per panel.

Blue board drywall uses a different kind of paper to sandwich the gypsum. The blue paper has a smoother finish that holds finish plaster on top, allowing the installer to build a perfectly smooth, seam-free finish. It should not be used with mud, tape, and joint compound. Prices range from $12 to $15 per panel.

While green board drywall has some moisture resistance, purple drywall offers superior moisture and mold resistance, making it even more effective in situations where dampness, moisture, and water contact may be factors. It can be used in all wall and ceiling applications, but it’s especially effective in moist conditions. Some purple board includes soundproofing and additional fire resistance, so it’s important that homeowners know exactly what they or their contractors are purchasing. Cost ranges from $15 to $60 per panel.

Paperless drywall is a newer addition to the drywall range. Covered with fiberglass instead of paper, this option protects the gypsum core from rot, moisture, and mildew and makes the board less likely to break and dent. It retains the texture of the fiberglass on the outside, so it may require additional joint compound to achieve a smooth finish. There are paperless versions of the different variations of drywall, so costs will likely be at the higher end of each range. On average, paperless drywall costs $25 to $35 per panel.

Type X is fire-resistant drywall. All gypsum board is by nature somewhat resistant to fire, but Type X features a denser pack of gypsum and noncombustible fibers. It is heavier and harder to cut. It comes in ⅝-, ½-, and ¾-inch thicknesses, but the ¾-inch size can be difficult to find. To achieve Type X certification, a ⅝-inch board has to meet a 1-hour fire-resistance rating, and a ½-inch board must meet a ¾-hour rating. Type X can be layered for additional resistance, which also adds soundproofing. Ideal for garages and basements, along with applications in buildings that must meet certain building codes, Type X drywall ranges from $20 to $30 per panel.

While the density of all drywall panels offers some soundproofing, choosing a board designed to be soundproof adds an extra layer of defense against noisy neighbors, televisions, construction work-related sounds, and more. Soundproof drywall, which is often used in music rooms, between apartments, and in other places where noise is a problem or silence is required, is a laminated drywall that includes wood fibers, gypsum, and other polymers to reduce sound transfer. It is a dense product that can be difficult to work with, but it achieves a quieter atmosphere. The cost per panel ranges from $40 to $55.

Eco-friendly drywall is characterized by its recyclability and high content of post-consumer materials. Usually made from gypsum, eco-friendly drywall is lightweight and durable. The cost of eco-friendly drywall is around $19 to $27 per panel.

For homeowners who are considering a remodel or removing or adding walls to their home, the options can seem overwhelming. For those living in older homes, the first instinct may be toward plaster, as it is a traditional and attractive finish. Modern drywall, however, is significantly less labor-intensive to install and is generally easier to maintain. It can even add energy efficiency to the home.

Drywall is relatively easy to install. The boards are cut, then screwed into wall studs. Tape and joint compound are applied over seams and screws, then sanded. While it takes practice and skill to get the taping just right, it can potentially be a DIY project for experienced homeowners. Plaster, on the other hand, requires specialized building experience to attach the wood laths to the studs. Then layer after layer of plaster must be applied to the lath and finished. When comparing drywall vs. plaster, labor costs alone can be more than three times than those to install drywall. While plaster can be a great option for a single wall repair if the other walls remain intact, drywall is the easier path to take for larger or whole-room projects, and once painted, most people won’t know the difference.

Whether they are dented and scratched during a move, discolored by water exposure, or dotted with holes from nails, walls are bound to undergo damage during their lifetime. Drywall repair is generally affordable, which is a significant advantage. Small dents or holes can be filled with spackle and repainted. Even major damage is easy to repair by simply replacing the affected panels. Drywall repair costs by a professional are relatively affordable, and some homeowners may even be able to do the repairs themselves.

Layers of paper, gypsum, and other fibers give drywall outstanding energy efficiency. When used in the walls of homes and apartments, it can keep interiors cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, and thus help keep energy bills down.

Gypsum is naturally fire-resistant, which can help prevent fire from spreading from room to room. In addition, the insulation properties of drywall can keep the heat from spreading through the walls. Drywall can keep fires from spreading and buy occupants valuable time to get out, get help, and extinguish the fire before it damages more of the home’s structure.

The many varieties of drywall offer benefits for different applications. Whether the homeowner is looking for waterproofing, soundproofing, fireproofing, or dent resistance, there are choices that make it easy to pick the right drywall for each installation. In addition, a skilled contractor can add hand finishes or spray finishes to the drywall, allowing homeowners to choose distinctive textures and finishes for a truly custom product.

Jobs such as installing, maintaining, and repairing drywall are some of the most affordable that can be done on the home. The ability to replace or repair small sections without extensive finish work keeps the maintenance costs down, and the costs of drywall materials themselves are on par with, or less than, the costs of plaster and other options. The installation costs can be minimal for a DIYer, and even hiring a professional to do the job is generally more affordable than the cost of the more labor-intensive plaster workers.

For some handy homeowners, figuring out how to hang drywall is a task that can be done to completion: Measuring, cutting, and screwing the boards into the wall isn’t intrinsically difficult. However, figuring out how to install drywall effectively is a different challenge. Taping looks simple on television, but determining how much mud to scoop onto a trowel and achieving the exact correct wrist angle to smooth it down, leaving just enough on the wall to seal the tape but not so much that it never dries, is a skill developed through years of experience. This is also true for smoothing a coat of joint compound across a wall without leaving seams and ridges. A professional will help make the process more efficient, which will result in a more polished product.

While a homeowner may know a few basics of how to fix drywall, larger-scale work is often better left to a professional. Large holes or water damage require heavy-duty repairs beyond patching and spackling. Drywall cracks and large gaps should not be ignored, as they can be indicative of a shifting foundation. A professional understands these warning signs and will have advice on how to proceed. Homeowners will also want to consider that drywall panels are heavy; this is especially true for ceiling installations, and special equipment may be necessary to support the materials. With the money saved by avoiding repeated trips to the home improvement store for more drywall tools, homeowners may find that hiring a professional to complete the installation is less expensive than a DIY approach.

While drywall is one of the most affordable options to finish walls and ceilings, the cost is not insignificant. Because there are so many choices in terms of type of board, installation options, and finishes, there are some ways the savvy homeowner can bring the overall cost down.Budget and estimate carefully from the beginning. Buying all the supplies at once may earn you a discount, and hiring electricians or plumbers ahead of time can be less expensive than an emergency call.

Purchase supplies from a drywall supplier instead of a big-box store. Drywall suppliers know their products, can help you estimate better, and will often reduce the price for a bulk order. In addition, this approach means you’ll likely spend less on impulse purchases at a home improvement store.

Don’t opt for the cheapest material. Even though it will save money up front, low-quality drywall will need to be repaired or replaced much more frequently. The cost will catch up with you eventually.

Remove the existing wall surface yourself. This can save money on demolition if you are confident that your walls do not involve asbestos or lead paint. Do this carefully and slowly, with awareness of electrical and plumbing components that may be behind the walls. If you know how to cut drywall and have the best tools to cut drywall, consider doing the hanging yourself and hiring a pro to handle the rest.

As homeowners are researching “drywall contractors near me,” they’ll want to look for someone who has specialized in drywall for a long time. An experienced drywall company will be able to provide more accurate estimates and will help the homeowner avoid the markup a general contractor can add to a smaller project. It’s important for homeowners to request a written contract and ask some questions to help keep the cost as close to their budget as possible.Does your estimate include the costs of transportation, demolition and preparation, materials, cleanup, and removal of dust and debris?

There are so many components to the cost of drywall that it can become overwhelming. The answers to these frequently asked questions can help homeowners zero in on how to best plan their drywall installation project.

Drywall is an affordable, energy-efficient option for walls and ceilings that provides natural fire resistance and soundproofing. It’s easy to customize for the location in the home and to have the style and texture the homeowner wants. Drywall is easily painted and repainted without a lot of prep work, or it can be used as a strong foundation for tile or shiplap walls.

Drywall panels should never be snugged up against each other. Like all other porous building materials, they need space to expand and contract with heat and cold and to accommodate shifts and settling of the structure. A standard ⅛-inch gap between panels will be hidden from view by tape and mud but will reduce buckling and cracking after the job is done.

Drywall walls and ceilings last between 30 and 70 years. A quality installation with offset seams and good taping sets up a long-lasting job. House settling can occasionally cause cracking. Water leaks, damage, or excessive holes from wall hangings can weaken the structure of the board itself and of taped and mudded joints. Prompt repair of this kind of damage along with any cracks will extend the life of the wall.

Sheetrock is a brand of drywall produced by United States Gypsum Corporation. In other words, all Sheetrock is drywall, but not all drywall is Sheetrock.

Plaster was commonly used in homes until around the 1940s, and it’s made up of wooden slats that are coated with plaster. Plaster is generally considered to have a more polished look, but it is pricier and more difficult to install than drywall.

Drywall mud pumps are essential if you are going to use automatic taping tools. Typical drywall pumps are simple lever action pumps that sit in a five-gallon bucket of mud. They have about a three-inch tube that reaches to within a couple of inches of the bottom of the bucket and sucks drywall mud from the bottom.

The spout on these pumps is approximately 5/8" in diameter and located at the base of the lever which sits near the top of the five-gallon bucket. The spouts also come with a small metal tube flattened on one end that serves as an adapter to fill taping boxes. You can also attach a gooseneck to the spout which allows you to fill a drywall bazooka with drywall mud.

Drywall pumps should never be used with hot mud, or quick set drywall mud. Quick set drywall mud hardens by means of a chemical process, therefore it can easily harden inside of the pump before you have a chance to clean it out.

There are pneumatic drywall pumps on the market as well. They are usually sold in conjunction with specific tools. For example, the "Apla Tech" taping system is centered around a pneumatic pump system.

There are not many reasons to invest in a drywall pump if you plan on using no more than basic taping tools like pans and knives. However, if you choose to invest in automatic taping tools including flat boxes, angle boxes, a bazooka, the mud runner or any of these types of tools, you will need to make sure you have a reliable drywall pump.

Here are several tools I discovered that make a drywall job much easier for the average homeowner or even a professional.  First up: a drywall screw gun.  There are a variety of them, including ones that feed screws into the gun so you don’t have to put in one screw at a time.  They make one-handed operation a snap.

If you’re putting up drywall on a  ceiling, you could ask a friend to help lift and hold the sheets while you screw them in.  But that can be difficult, time-consuming, and could end your friendship if things go south.  Instead, rent a drywall lift for about $30 a day.  They adjust easily, are simple to use and can hold almost any size drywall sheet. It takes only one person to operate one, making it almost effortless to lift a piece of drywall into place. You can also buy a good drywall liftfor about $150 if you plan to take your time.  They can be delivered to your home in a box and can be assembled in minutes without tools.

After screwing in your drywall, there’s mudding and taping the seams.  It’s necessary to make the seams flat so the drywall can be painted or finished.  After you’ve thinned your mud a bit with water, there’s another device to help you out.  It’s called a banjo and can be found in plastic or metal.  It doesn’t look like a banjo, but it makes mudding and taping an easy, all-in-one proposition.

You put a roll of tape on the back part of the banjo wheel and thread it through the banjo and out the other side.  It leaves a space for the mud to be put right onto the tape.  The tape and mud come out together.  You then roll it over a seam and embed the tape and mud into the joint.  It’s less messy and much faster for a homeowner and pros.  The cost is only about $30, so no need to rent one–just buy it.

The next step is covering those joints with another layer of mud, so it’s close to flat.  That’s where the pros make it look much better than most any homeowner can.  But you can get what are called “drywall boxes” that make the job much better looking than you can do by hand.  Many professionals use them as well.  They often come in a kit, with a mud pump and one or two drywall boxes for different widths.

You fill the boxes full of mud, lift them up to a wall or ceiling joint, then press and drag.  It fills the void to a consistent depth with mud and scrapes off the excess.  You may need to go both directions on the ceiling for the best coverage!   It’s a tool you may want to rent as they cost more than $500 for the kit.   If you do buy them, just keep them clean after each use by spraying them down with a garden hose, and sell them when you’re done.  They fetch a decent price on eBay.

Then there’s the part everyone seems to hate: sanding.  It’s a dusty, time-consuming mess.  But there is one tool that can almost eliminate dust.  It’s a drywall sander that attaches to your small shop vacuum.   Connect the two, then turn on both.  Rub the circular sanding pad across the mudded part of the drywall.  It gets rid of high spots in seconds and the vacuum sucks up all the drywall dust before it’s off the wall.  There are a variety of these products on the internet for under $150 with pads.  When I did my basement, I only used two pads for the entire basement and had virtually no dust, unless I forgot to turn on the vacuum.

The final tool I tried were drywall stilts.  They get you closer to the ceiling or high walls for touch-ups, taping or whatever.  I learned how to walk on them, but never really used them much.  I found standing on a wide aluminum bench or even a 5 gallon bucket was just as easy and there was far less chance of falling down!  The professionals make them look easy. If you want to give them a try, you can buy them for around $100.

The average drywall cost in a 10×12 room is $650-900. The size of your walls, type of sheetrock, as well as the complexity of labor involved will have the biggest impact on the total cost of installing and finishing drywall in your house.

Contractors use drywall in homes and commercial spaces to construct wall and ceiling surfaces. Drywall is also known as wallboard, sheetrock or gypsum board.

Across the US, homeowners report spending $2.75-$4.20 per square foot to install drywall on vertical surfaces (walls). Drywall on ceilings is typically 50-70% more than walls.

This price estimate includes materials, professional labor for both hanging and finishing the drywall (joint compound of seams and screw holes) as well as sanding, so that a contractor can paint it.

This drywall estimate is for simple rectangular spaces, without any complex architectural details, multiple corners or any other obstructions that would need to be worked around.

For a small project, the price per square foot for installing drywall is actually much higher then for bigger square footage, because the contractor has to account for his prep and clean up time as well as overhead costs.

For example, if you have a space of about 2,400 sq.ft. and will need to cover it with 50 12′ sheets, your drywall cost will be about$72-84 per sheet, or $3,600-4,200 total.

If you are building a new house or a commercial space (over 10-12,000 sq.ft.) you can get a significant discount on the total drywall installation cost. It can become as low as $1.15-1.25 per sq.ft.

1. Remove and dispose old drywall: if you need to remove old drywall before installing new one, be prepared to spend! This work is very expensive, ranging from $2 -3.25 per sq.ft. This is one area where you can try to save money, if you are willing to do this job yourself.

2. Scaffolding: if your house has very high, cathedral or vaulted ceilings, installing drywall will be a lot more challenging and will require scaffolding. Depending on the contractor, you may get a 30-50% up-charge on the total.

3. Drywall framing: if you are building a home addition, and need to add walls, they have to be framed before hanging drywall. The cost of framing walls is $4-4.5 per square foot, including all the materials.

4. Put in wall insulation: Prior to hanging drywall, its very important to ensure that there is good insulation inside the walls. Typical wall insulation prices are $0.75 – 1.00 per square foot.

Similarly, drywall costs will go up if he will have to work around built-in shelves, countertops and kitchen cabinets, if you are doing a big kitchen remodel.

6. Smooth ceiling: if you install ceiling drywall and want the texture to be completely smooth, you will pay a premium charge. To create a perfectly smooth ceiling a pro needs to spend a lot of time applying many coats of mud and then sanding the surface.

By contrast, a textured ceiling is significantly cheaper. This is why many people prefer it over a smooth one. To create it a contractor applies only one coat of mud, after he seals the joints.

Hanging the drywall is only the first step of the project. Once that is complete, the contractor needs to finish the drywall in order to prepare the walls or ceiling for finish step of painting it.

Generally speaking there are 5 levels of finish for the drywall, each with increasing number of labor and time required. The lower the level of finish, the more visible are joint tape, compound, etc.

Many homeowners are confused about the difference between sheetrock and drywall. This is especially the case since contractors use these two terms interchangeably, even though they are actually NOT the same thing.

Sheetrock is a type of drywall that is made exclusively by the US Gypsum company. So Sheetrock is actually a brand of drywall. This means that all of sheetrock is drywall, but NOT all drywall is sheetrock.

While sheetrock is more expensive than generic drywall, many pros prefer to use it on their remodeling projects, because its higher quality and is actually easier to work with.

Its important to keep in mind that some generic cheap drywall that is manufactured in China actually emits sulfur gas. This not results in a very unpleasant smell in the room but also poses a health hazard.

Not all drywall or sheetrock is created equal. Pricing varies depending on the features of the drywall material> Its important to figure out first what type of drywall you need, before settling on the product.

Note, sound resistant drywall costs the most to install, as much as $4 and up per sq.ft. for labor and materials. Standard size panel of sound resistant drywall costs about $50.

High-end basement remodels make use of this type of drywall if they are converting a basement into a man cave, a home entertainment theater, or a music/dance studio.

Your cost of drywall can range greatly depending on the brand you buy as well as the thickness of the sheet. The price for a sheet of drywall ranges from $9 to $18 per sheet, while the average cost is $11-12 per sheet.

If you need to hang drywall on the ceiling, be sure to get sheets that are labeled as “sag resistant”. They are also lighter in weight than standard drywall used on walls.

If you are remodeling an older house, you may have to budget for additional expenses when installing drywall. This is because many homes that were built before 1980 may have issues with mold, asbestos or lead paint.

Hiring a contractor to install drywall typically accounts for 60-70% of the total project cost, while 30-40% is the cost of drywall and additional materials.

If you know how to handle drywall and are not looking for a very high quality finish (like you want to put up some wall paneling in your garage or basement), then you can do the job yourself, since all the materials you need are readily available at a local big box home improvement store.

However, if you need to hang drywall in a large space, or the ceilings need to be drywalled, or you are looking for a premium level of finish then, its best to hire a pro. They will have the skills and the tools to get the job done well as well as very quickly.

Drywall mud, also called joint compound, is a gypsum-based paste used to finish drywall joints and corners in new drywall installations. It"s also handy for repairing cracks and holes in existing drywall and plaster surfaces. Drywall mud comes in a few basic types, and each has its advantages and disadvantages. You may choose one type for your project or use a combination of compounds for the desired results.

Joint compound, commonly called mud, is the wet material that is used for drywall installation to adhere paper joint tape, fill joints, and to top paper and mesh joint tapes, as well as for plastic and metal corner beads. It can also be used to repair holes and cracks in drywall and plaster.

Professional drywall installers sometimes use different types of muds for different stages of the process. For example, some professionals use a mud just for embedding paper tape, another mud for setting a base layer to cover the tape, and another mud for topping the joints.

All-purpose compound is a pre-mixed mud sold in buckets and boxes. It can be used for all phases of drywall finishing: embedding joint tape and filler and finish coats, as well as for texturing and skim-coating. Because it is lightweight and has a slow drying time, it"s very easy to work with and is the preferred option for DIYers for coating the first three layers over drywall joints. However, an all-purpose compound is not as strong as other types, such as topping compound.

A specialty form of all-purpose compound is known as lightweight all-purposemud, which is similar to standard all-purpose mud but is lighter in weight. Some pros find it inferior for taping seams since it contains less binding agent. The lightweight form of all-purpose mud is sometimes used for the first and second coat on seams and for finishing corner bead. It is a very easy mud to sand.

Topping compound is the ideal mud to use after the first two coats of taping compound have been applied to a taped drywall joint. Topping compound is a low-shrinking compound that goes on smoothly and offers a very strong bond. It is also highly workable. Topping compound typically is sold in dry powder that you mix with water. This does make it less convenient than premixed compound, but it allows you to mix just as much as you need; you can save the rest of the dry powder for future use. Topping compound is sold in pre-mixed boxes or buckets, too, though, so you can purchase whichever type you prefer.

Topping compound is not recommended for embedding joint tape—the first coat on most drywall joints. When applied properly, a topping compound should reduce your sanding time in comparison to lightweight compounds, such as all-purpose mud.

True to its name, a taping compound is ideal for embedding joint tape for the first phase of finishing drywall joints. Taping compound dries harder and is more difficult to sand than all-purpose and topping compounds. Taping compound is also the best option if you need to cover plaster cracks and when superior bonding and crack-resistance are required, such as around door and window openings (which tend to crack due to house settling). It is also the best mud option for laminating drywall panels in multi-layer partitions and ceilings.

Commonly called "hot mud," quick-setting compound is ideal when you need to finish a job quickly or when you want to apply multiple coats on the same day. Sometimes called simply "setting compound," this form is also useful for filling deep cracks and holes in drywall and plaster, where drying time can become an issue. If you are working in an area with high humidity, you might want to use this compound to ensure a proper drywall finish. It sets by chemical reaction, rather than simple evaporation of water, as is the case with other compounds. This means that quick-setting compound will set in damp conditions.

Quick-setting mud comes in a dry powder that must be mixed with water and applied immediately. Be sure to follow the manufacturer"s recommendations prior to use. It is available with different setting times, ranging from five minutes to 90 minutes. "Lightweight" formulas are relatively easy to sand.

Drywall joint compound comes in either of two forms: dry or wet. Dry joint compound is the classic type that has been used for years and is still used by professionals. Wet joint compound is a newer product more aimed at the residential do-it-yourselfer.

Both dry and pre-mixed joint compounds contain latex additives to add strength and flexibility. When mixed appropriately, both cover the same amount of drywall: about 125 to 150 pounds of compound covering about 1,000 square feet of drywall panels.

Joint compound in the dry form is a powder that usually comes in large paper bags. The dry product must be mixed with potable water in a separate container to form workable mud. This product is usually not labeled as being dry. Simply, it will be called joint compound with the qualifiers ready-mixed or pre-mixed omitted.

It is possible to mix small amounts of dry mud with an electric corded drill and a paddle mixer. But a mud mixer has a strong motor and low torque for turning heavy compounds, even small mixes of concrete. Plus, it saves your drill for what it was made for: drilling.

How much mudding with dry mix would you have to do to justify the purchase of a mud mixer? Since dry joint compound costs virtually the same amount per square foot of coverage as pre-mixed joint compound, purchasing an electric mixer may only make sense financially if you will need to use it often and with huge quantities of dry joint compound: A good 1/2-inch electric drill with a 7 or 8 amp rating will mix a small quantity of mud easily.

Note that skim coating is extremely thin and is considered to be part of a premium level 5 drywall finish, something that few homeowners will ever take on. Since most drywall finishing confines itself to narrow joint strips, you would need to finish around 400 average-sized rooms" joints to justify the cost of the machine.

In addition to parts and materials above, the cost to install drywall may also include the use of the following tools and supplies, commonly used by the handyman or drywall installer. If you choose to make this a do it yourself project, the list of supplies is extensive, but you want to make sure you are prepared when trying to install drywall yourself.  You will need help with this project because drywall sheets are very heavy. Plan to have at least 2 helpers.

There are quite a few factors that will effect your total drywall installation cost. The size of the area and whether your job will be a repair, replacement or drywall installation on a new project.

If you would like to save some money on the cost of drywall installation, there are a few ways you can do it. For the most part, you should have a professional drywall installer complete the job, but consider these factors to help save some money.

There are several items that could either raise or lower the cost to install drywall and you should contact multiple handymen or drywall installers for several price quotes.  Do research in advance so you can ask each contractor educated questions. You want to make sure that the contractor will be properly preparing your area in advance of the installation to reduce dust/dirt circulation in your home. In addition, they should thoroughly clean up the area after the installation.

To learn more about the process of installing new drywall, issues that could arise if you make this a do it yourself project, or the best way to get drywall installation cost estimates from various contractors, view some of the links below.

Drywall-How-To – Very informative website that steps you through every part of drywall installation, from estimating the cost, prepping your area and installing your drywall.

It’s always great to hear about other homeowner experiences! Have you had a drywall installation recently? Let us know how much it cost at our user submission formand give others a few tips!

Drywall texturing costs depend on the surface prep, texture type, coating thickness, and application method. Most drywall contractors charge a $100 minimum.

The average cost to texture a ceiling is $1 to $2 per square foot. Texturing a drywall ceiling costs $130 to $440 on average for a bedroom or living room, depending on the texture type, application method, and ceiling height.

A knockdown texture ceiling costs $1.00 to $2.50 per square footor $500 to $1,250 for 500 square feet. Knockdown is the most common drywall texture style and is also called California knockdown or splatter drag.

Drywall installation costs $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot, including materials and labor to hang, tape, finish, and texture the drywall. The average cost to tape and mud drywall is $0.35 to $1.10 per square foot, not including sanding or finishing.

Sprayed textures are applied with a pump that uses compressed air to feed drywall mud through a nozzle. The pattern is determined by the nozzle and sprayer type.

Hand textures are more customizable and are applied with a trowel, knife, or brush. Some hand textures require a sprayer to apply a layer of drywall mud before other tools are used to create a pattern.

Textured drywall finishes are created by applying joint compound with a sprayer, trowel, or brush to create a raised pattern on the surface. Texture adds dimension, looks like traditional plaster, and hides the seams and flaws in drywall.

Drywall does not have to be textured. However, a textured surface hides flaws and doesn"t require repairs or repainting as often as a smooth surface. You can paint drywall with or without texture as long as the joints are mudded and the surface is primed first.

Texturing drywall with a sprayed coating takes less than one day for an average home. Hand-applied textures take 1 to 3 days, depending on the texture style and the number of drywall laborers.

DIY drywall texturing is feasible but time-consuming and messy. Achieving a good finish requires skill, experience, precise timing, and specialized tools. Hire a professional drywall contractor for the best results.

Sprayed textures are the easiest to DIY and provide the most forgiving results for inexperienced users. Renting a texture sprayer costs $75 to $95 per day.

One gallon of premixed joint compound—also called drywall mud—covers 50 to 100 square feet of wall or ceiling surface, depending on the texture"s thickness. One pound of powdered joint compound covers 30 to 40 square feet after thinning with water.