diy drywall mud pump quotation

Automatic Taping Tools are more powerful and efficient than traditional hand tools. Whether you"re a drywall professional, remodeler, or DIY, automatic taping tools achieve better results in half the time. Drywall Loading Pumps (mud pumps) are compound pumps that use Gooseneck and Box Fillers Adaptors to fill drywall taping and finishing tools. All-Wall offers the largest selection of Loading Pumps from top brands such as TapeTech, Columbia, Asgard, Graco, and Drywall Master.

Drywall Master Taping Tools Extended Quick Clean Mud Pump is used to fill automatic taping tools with mud compound. DrywallMaster pump uses gooseneck (sold separately) to fill automatic taper. Box filler (also sold separately) attaches to pump to fill all other finishing tools. Industry exclusive double o-ring head seal on Drywall Master mud pump keeps mud from seeping between head and pump tube for better seal and easier separating, cleaning or maintenance.

Unique dual o-ring head seal keeps mud from getting between head casting and pump tube. This makes pump easier to separate for cleaning or maintenance.

The Loading Pump, with appropriate accessories (Gooseneck and/or Filler Adapter), is used to fill the following tools: Automatic Taper, Corner Applicator/Corner Box, Nail Spotter, and Flat Box. Attach the Gooseneck to fill the Automatic Taper. Attach the Filler Adapter to fill the Nail Spotter, Corner Applicator, and Flat Box. Simply hang the tube of Loading Pump into a bucket of mud, leaving the leg of the Pump on the floor. Attach the appropriate accessory to the pump. Prime the Pump by pumping the handle a couple of times. Now you should be ready to fill your tool.

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What"s equally as important as your automatic taping and finishing tools? You need a reliable mud pump. The drywall compound pump, or mud pump, is necessary to quickly fill your automatic tools such as a flat box or automatic taping tool, and keep the job moving with minimal delay. Without a reliable pump, you’ll be spending more time fiddling with a pump that is difficult to clean, or worse, resorting to hand-filling your tools, which is time consuming, and counter productive.

No pump = no tools, so you need a workhorse that will withstand a lot, and get through your workday, every time. TheLevel5 Drywall Compound Pumpis constructed of billet aluminum, making it much stronger, and more durable than your typical cast aluminum construction.

Another important quality is resistance to corrosion. Tools built of poor quality and materials are prone to rust and corrosion. The anodization on the Level5 Drywall compound pump makes it highly resistant to corrosion, as well as wear and tear!

A good seal is important too! Typically for compound pumps, a rubber seal is used, but the problem with rubber is that it will slowly deteriorate, and before you know it, you’re leaking all over the place. The Level5 Drywall Compound Pump uses a composite urethane cup seal, which provides much longer wear life vs. the traditional rubber seals.

Working with mud can be messy, and when you’re on the job, it"s important to be able to easily clean and maintain your compound pump. You should not be spending any extra time fiddling with small screws or components to clean your pump, or to switch valves.

That’s why the Level5 Compound pump has easy clean features, like grenade pins and easy-release latches on its tube and handle. It also comes with a wrench, and a built-in wrench mount so that you are always prepared to switch from gooseneck to box-filler valve, or make a quick adjustment with ease.

Theoretically, yes you can, but it"s a slow process, and at which point you may be better off hand finishing, as you will impede the speed of the work. The combination of your automatic tools and your mud pump will pay for itself fairly quickly by the speed and quality job that you can achieve.

We think the Level5 Drywall Compound Pump is the best drywall mud pump on the market, and truly the underestimated workhorse in the arsenal of any professional drywall finisher. LEVEL5’s drywall compound pump has been made to meet finisher’s demand for reliability, affordability and workability. This beast of a taping tool is built to withstand years of heavy use. In fact, the Level5 compound pump has been tested for over 250,000 cycles without the need or repair, or replacement parts.

If you’re interested in purchasing a compound pump, you can find more information here. And as always, feel free to email, or give us a call and we’d be happy to provide more information!

Glancing around a home, visitors take in the artwork, photographs, furniture, and even the paint color. The finish on the walls and ceilings underneath the paint doesn’t necessarily draw the eye—unless it’s cracked, slumped, or poorly patched. Drywall is the foundation of most modern walls and ceilings and the replacement product of choice for many older homes. A well-installed smooth or textured surface lets the furnishings and decor in any home shine.

Whether a homeowner is choosing a qualified contractor or learning how to hang drywall themselves, they’ll want to begin with an understanding of the different types of drywall available, the many factors that affect the overall cost of drywall, and the supplies needed to install it. How much does drywall cost? According to Angi and HomeAdvisor, the typical cost of drywall itself is between $12 and $20 per panel, with a national average of $15. Some additional costs are obvious, such as the ones for panels, screws, tape, mud, and joint compound, but other components, such as demolition, transportation, permits, and even the volume of sandpaper needed to get the job done well, might escape notice. In addition, there are several types of drywall available that can provide soundproofing, waterproofing, and fire resistance, along with more basic styles that support tile or shiplap walls. A variety of finishes can complement the style of the home and reduce the cost overall. To make these decisions easier, it’s a good idea for homeowners to calculate the cost of drywall panels and installation.

Calculating the overall cost of installing drywall in a home is a straightforward formula, but it does include a number of variables and decisions on the part of the homeowner. The following formula can help a homeowner calculate the amount of drywall needed for a project and the total cost.Measure the square footage (width times height) of the area that needs to be drywalled, then divide by 32 (if using 4-by-8-foot sheets) or by 48 (if using 4-by-12-foot sheets) to determine how many panels of drywall will be needed.

On average, it will cost between $200 and $300 to purchase enough drywall panels for a 12-foot-by-12-foot room. There are, of course, additional factors in calculating the overall material costs, including the number of odd cuts that create additional waste, corners, and the type and thickness of the panels themselves, but this formula should provide homeowners with a good estimate of how much material they’ll need to get started. It may also be useful for homeowners to plug these numbers into an online drywall calculator for a specific estimate.

While the math of calculating drywall cost is relatively easy to do, there are significant variables in the figured cost of hanging drywall in any given space. Because drywall is used in so many different areas of the home, there are varieties in the shape, thickness, and additional materials incorporated into the panels that create a wide cost range. In addition, regional considerations, including local construction booms, weather and transportation concerns, and even the season, can affect local pricing to make it vastly different from the national average drywall cost. There are some concrete factors, however, that are determined by the homeowner and provide an opportunity to save a little money.

Drywall panels come in standard sizes of 4 feet by 8 feet or 4 feet by 12 feet. Depending on the size and dimensions of the room, one panel size may be more efficient for the space and will create less waste than the other. While 4-by-12-foot sheets are a bit more expensive, the homeowner may need fewer sheets overall if their ceilings are high, which can save money along with time needed for cutting and taping.

The location where drywall is being installed will affect the overall cost. This is due to both the square footage of the room and the type of drywall that will be used. The cost to drywall smaller rooms, such as bathrooms, is lower overall—between $430 and $500—but the price per square foot may be higher. Often, green or purple boards are used instead of standard drywall for bathrooms because they are more moisture-resistant, and this can increase the cost. A room with larger square footage, such as a living room, will cost about $960 to $2,800 to drywall. The cost per square foot for basements and garages may be less because these areas are not typically finished with the same high-quality materials that are used for living spaces.

Drywall is available in four thicknesses: ¼ inch, ⅜ inch, ½ inch, and ⅝ inch, with cost increasing with thickness. The cost for ¼-inch drywall is about $10 to $12 per sheet, and this type is mostly used for repairs to fortify existing walls. The cost of ⅜-inch drywall can run up to $15 per sheet; this type is mostly used when ½-inch drywall is too large for an existing space. Half-inch drywall is ideal for almost all spaces and can cost anywhere between $10 and $20 per sheet. The thickest drywall is ⅝ inch, and this type is almost exclusively used for soundproofing. It costs about $13 to $75 per sheet. Choosing the correct thickness for the project can help lower the overall cost.

Depending on the application of the drywall, hiring a qualified professional drywall hanger may be the best bet. Hanging and finishing drywall are two separate costs: The average cost to hang drywall is $0.15 to $0.65 per square foot. Taping and mudding drywall after it’s hung can range from $0.40 to $0.70 per square foot, while sanding and priming costs between $0.10 and $0.50 per square foot. The cost to finish the drywall ranges from $0.50 to $1.15 per square foot. Combining these costs gives a total drywall installation cost range of $1.15 to $3 per square foot.

Drywall finishing is rated from level 0 to level 5. What follows are the finishing ratings and their typical costs.Level 0. A level 0 finish job means the drywall is screwed into the studs: No mudding or taping has been done. This service costs between $0.30 and $0.80 per square foot.

Level 1. Level 1 includes mudding and taping the seams and costs between $0.70 and $1.50 per square foot for labor. Level 1 is not a complete finish and is common for attics and basements.

Level 4. Level 4 results in drywall that is smoothed, sanded, and primed, but it may have surface imperfections. This finish is a good base for tiling or wallpaper, but is also suitable simply for painting. Level 4 finishing costs between $1 and $3 per square foot.

Level 5. A level 5 drywall finish includes a full, smooth coat of joint compound over the entire wall along with primer that has been sanded. The drywall is ready for even glossy paint, as there are almost no imperfections. Level 5 finishing costs $1.15 to $3.50 per square foot.

Drywall prices can vary greatly depending on a homeowner’s region of the country. Prices tend to be lower in midwestern states. For example, prices in Ohio range from $7.85 to $12.10 per panel, whereas homeowners in California will pay between $11.85 and $19.80 per panel. On the East Coast, drywall costs average about $10.35 to $17.50 per panel.

Surprisingly, it can be more expensive per square foot to drywall a small room than a larger one. Covering a larger area provides more opportunities to use full sheets or scraps to fill interrupted walls, so the overall cost drops. It is least expensive when homeowners decide that hanging drywall in the entire house all at once is the best plan. But the cost isn’t only dependent on the total area mathematically: The number of cuts, fitting, and level of finish will also play into the total. Use (and therefore cost) of finishing materials will increase with a higher number of corners and specialized cuts, as corners require a special bead to be tidy. In addition, some drywall contractors may charge a minimum service fee, which could exceed the actual cost of installing drywall in a small space, so bundling several rooms into one project may help you save overall. This fee may also apply if only a small portion of existing drywall is being patched, which costs about $100 on average.

Having established the cost of the drywall materials needed for a project, homeowners may think they know how much they’re budgeting and are ready to head to the home improvement store to get started—but there are other cost considerations to factor in first.

For new walls, or walls on the exterior of the home that have been fully removed prior to the new drywall being added, homeowners will need to include the cost of materials and installation of insulation to maintain the energy efficiency of the building. Depending on the type of insulation the homeowner chooses, costs can range from $0.65 to $6.50 per square foot.

Applying texture to drywall is a simple way to add visual interest to a room. Texture can be applied to both walls and ceilings in a wide variety of styles depending on the homeowner’s preference. Some textures like Santa Fe and skip trowel have a rustic appearance that is similar to stucco and can be applied by hand. The cost for hand-applied textures is between $1.50 and $2 per square foot. Knockdown and orange peel textures are more subtle and can be applied with a spray. Spray textures are more affordable since they are quicker and easier to apply, and these cost between $0.50 and $1 per square foot.

Drywall panels are available with water resistance, waterproofing, soundproofing, and with and without paper—there is a type of drywall for almost every application, and the costs vary significantly based on which additional features are required.

Do homeowners need a permit to add or replace drywall? In the case of a simple replacement to clean up a damaged wall, probably not. If the drywall project involves plumbing, electrical work, or a load-bearing wall, or if the location of a wall will change, it’s important for homeowners to check with their local municipality to see if a permit and inspection are required.

Drywall is a catchall term that many people use to describe any wallboard product. However, as drywall has become the standard product for wall and ceiling installations, additional styles and formulations have been developed to meet the needs of different purposes and spaces. Each additional component adds to the cost per panel, but it’s important to choose the best panel for the space in which it will be installed.

Regular drywall, which is gypsum board sandwiched between two paper layers for stability, is the least expensive option. It’s fine for most bedroom, living room, and dining room walls where moisture resistance is not a key concern. The price per panel will vary based on the panel size and thickness, but it ranges from $15 to $20.

Green board drywall adds an extra layer of green material on the outside surfaces of the board, making it water-resistant. Ideal for areas in the home where moisture may be a concern, but not for walls that need to be completely waterproof, green board is often used in kitchens or where it will be covered with tiles and grout. Green board comes in a standard 4-by-8-foot size, and costs range from $14 to $18 per panel.

Blue board drywall uses a different kind of paper to sandwich the gypsum. The blue paper has a smoother finish that holds finish plaster on top, allowing the installer to build a perfectly smooth, seam-free finish. It should not be used with mud, tape, and joint compound. Prices range from $12 to $15 per panel.

While green board drywall has some moisture resistance, purple drywall offers superior moisture and mold resistance, making it even more effective in situations where dampness, moisture, and water contact may be factors. It can be used in all wall and ceiling applications, but it’s especially effective in moist conditions. Some purple board includes soundproofing and additional fire resistance, so it’s important that homeowners know exactly what they or their contractors are purchasing. Cost ranges from $15 to $60 per panel.

Paperless drywall is a newer addition to the drywall range. Covered with fiberglass instead of paper, this option protects the gypsum core from rot, moisture, and mildew and makes the board less likely to break and dent. It retains the texture of the fiberglass on the outside, so it may require additional joint compound to achieve a smooth finish. There are paperless versions of the different variations of drywall, so costs will likely be at the higher end of each range. On average, paperless drywall costs $25 to $35 per panel.

Type X is fire-resistant drywall. All gypsum board is by nature somewhat resistant to fire, but Type X features a denser pack of gypsum and noncombustible fibers. It is heavier and harder to cut. It comes in ⅝-, ½-, and ¾-inch thicknesses, but the ¾-inch size can be difficult to find. To achieve Type X certification, a ⅝-inch board has to meet a 1-hour fire-resistance rating, and a ½-inch board must meet a ¾-hour rating. Type X can be layered for additional resistance, which also adds soundproofing. Ideal for garages and basements, along with applications in buildings that must meet certain building codes, Type X drywall ranges from $20 to $30 per panel.

While the density of all drywall panels offers some soundproofing, choosing a board designed to be soundproof adds an extra layer of defense against noisy neighbors, televisions, construction work-related sounds, and more. Soundproof drywall, which is often used in music rooms, between apartments, and in other places where noise is a problem or silence is required, is a laminated drywall that includes wood fibers, gypsum, and other polymers to reduce sound transfer. It is a dense product that can be difficult to work with, but it achieves a quieter atmosphere. The cost per panel ranges from $40 to $55.

Eco-friendly drywall is characterized by its recyclability and high content of post-consumer materials. Usually made from gypsum, eco-friendly drywall is lightweight and durable. The cost of eco-friendly drywall is around $19 to $27 per panel.

For homeowners who are considering a remodel or removing or adding walls to their home, the options can seem overwhelming. For those living in older homes, the first instinct may be toward plaster, as it is a traditional and attractive finish. Modern drywall, however, is significantly less labor-intensive to install and is generally easier to maintain. It can even add energy efficiency to the home.

Drywall is relatively easy to install. The boards are cut, then screwed into wall studs. Tape and joint compound are applied over seams and screws, then sanded. While it takes practice and skill to get the taping just right, it can potentially be a DIY project for experienced homeowners. Plaster, on the other hand, requires specialized building experience to attach the wood laths to the studs. Then layer after layer of plaster must be applied to the lath and finished. When comparing drywall vs. plaster, labor costs alone can be more than three times than those to install drywall. While plaster can be a great option for a single wall repair if the other walls remain intact, drywall is the easier path to take for larger or whole-room projects, and once painted, most people won’t know the difference.

Whether they are dented and scratched during a move, discolored by water exposure, or dotted with holes from nails, walls are bound to undergo damage during their lifetime. Drywall repair is generally affordable, which is a significant advantage. Small dents or holes can be filled with spackle and repainted. Even major damage is easy to repair by simply replacing the affected panels. Drywall repair costs by a professional are relatively affordable, and some homeowners may even be able to do the repairs themselves.

Layers of paper, gypsum, and other fibers give drywall outstanding energy efficiency. When used in the walls of homes and apartments, it can keep interiors cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, and thus help keep energy bills down.

Gypsum is naturally fire-resistant, which can help prevent fire from spreading from room to room. In addition, the insulation properties of drywall can keep the heat from spreading through the walls. Drywall can keep fires from spreading and buy occupants valuable time to get out, get help, and extinguish the fire before it damages more of the home’s structure.

The many varieties of drywall offer benefits for different applications. Whether the homeowner is looking for waterproofing, soundproofing, fireproofing, or dent resistance, there are choices that make it easy to pick the right drywall for each installation. In addition, a skilled contractor can add hand finishes or spray finishes to the drywall, allowing homeowners to choose distinctive textures and finishes for a truly custom product.

Jobs such as installing, maintaining, and repairing drywall are some of the most affordable that can be done on the home. The ability to replace or repair small sections without extensive finish work keeps the maintenance costs down, and the costs of drywall materials themselves are on par with, or less than, the costs of plaster and other options. The installation costs can be minimal for a DIYer, and even hiring a professional to do the job is generally more affordable than the cost of the more labor-intensive plaster workers.

For some handy homeowners, figuring out how to hang drywall is a task that can be done to completion: Measuring, cutting, and screwing the boards into the wall isn’t intrinsically difficult. However, figuring out how to install drywall effectively is a different challenge. Taping looks simple on television, but determining how much mud to scoop onto a trowel and achieving the exact correct wrist angle to smooth it down, leaving just enough on the wall to seal the tape but not so much that it never dries, is a skill developed through years of experience. This is also true for smoothing a coat of joint compound across a wall without leaving seams and ridges. A professional will help make the process more efficient, which will result in a more polished product.

While a homeowner may know a few basics of how to fix drywall, larger-scale work is often better left to a professional. Large holes or water damage require heavy-duty repairs beyond patching and spackling. Drywall cracks and large gaps should not be ignored, as they can be indicative of a shifting foundation. A professional understands these warning signs and will have advice on how to proceed. Homeowners will also want to consider that drywall panels are heavy; this is especially true for ceiling installations, and special equipment may be necessary to support the materials. With the money saved by avoiding repeated trips to the home improvement store for more drywall tools, homeowners may find that hiring a professional to complete the installation is less expensive than a DIY approach.

While drywall is one of the most affordable options to finish walls and ceilings, the cost is not insignificant. Because there are so many choices in terms of type of board, installation options, and finishes, there are some ways the savvy homeowner can bring the overall cost down.Budget and estimate carefully from the beginning. Buying all the supplies at once may earn you a discount, and hiring electricians or plumbers ahead of time can be less expensive than an emergency call.

Purchase supplies from a drywall supplier instead of a big-box store. Drywall suppliers know their products, can help you estimate better, and will often reduce the price for a bulk order. In addition, this approach means you’ll likely spend less on impulse purchases at a home improvement store.

Don’t opt for the cheapest material. Even though it will save money up front, low-quality drywall will need to be repaired or replaced much more frequently. The cost will catch up with you eventually.

Remove the existing wall surface yourself. This can save money on demolition if you are confident that your walls do not involve asbestos or lead paint. Do this carefully and slowly, with awareness of electrical and plumbing components that may be behind the walls. If you know how to cut drywall and have the best tools to cut drywall, consider doing the hanging yourself and hiring a pro to handle the rest.

As homeowners are researching “drywall contractors near me,” they’ll want to look for someone who has specialized in drywall for a long time. An experienced drywall company will be able to provide more accurate estimates and will help the homeowner avoid the markup a general contractor can add to a smaller project. It’s important for homeowners to request a written contract and ask some questions to help keep the cost as close to their budget as possible.Does your estimate include the costs of transportation, demolition and preparation, materials, cleanup, and removal of dust and debris?

There are so many components to the cost of drywall that it can become overwhelming. The answers to these frequently asked questions can help homeowners zero in on how to best plan their drywall installation project.

Drywall is an affordable, energy-efficient option for walls and ceilings that provides natural fire resistance and soundproofing. It’s easy to customize for the location in the home and to have the style and texture the homeowner wants. Drywall is easily painted and repainted without a lot of prep work, or it can be used as a strong foundation for tile or shiplap walls.

Drywall panels should never be snugged up against each other. Like all other porous building materials, they need space to expand and contract with heat and cold and to accommodate shifts and settling of the structure. A standard ⅛-inch gap between panels will be hidden from view by tape and mud but will reduce buckling and cracking after the job is done.

Drywall walls and ceilings last between 30 and 70 years. A quality installation with offset seams and good taping sets up a long-lasting job. House settling can occasionally cause cracking. Water leaks, damage, or excessive holes from wall hangings can weaken the structure of the board itself and of taped and mudded joints. Prompt repair of this kind of damage along with any cracks will extend the life of the wall.

Sheetrock is a brand of drywall produced by United States Gypsum Corporation. In other words, all Sheetrock is drywall, but not all drywall is Sheetrock.

Plaster was commonly used in homes until around the 1940s, and it’s made up of wooden slats that are coated with plaster. Plaster is generally considered to have a more polished look, but it is pricier and more difficult to install than drywall.

This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application 060/052,261 entitled “Mud Pump and Drywall Tape and Texture System,” filed Jul. 11, 1997.

Traditionally, in gypsum wallboard or “drywall” panel installation, sheets of drywall are nailed or screwed in place. Seams between the drywall sheets must be taped over, and the nail or screw heads must be coated with paper tape and mastic material to form a continuous wall surface. Tape and mastic material must also be applied to inside corners to form a complete wall system. The task of applying drywall tape and mastic drywall mud is generally laborious, tedious, and messy. Although inventions have made the task easier, improvement is still needed. One currently available drywall taping tool is the pedestrian mud pan and drywall knife.

With a mud pan and drywall knife, a workman manually applies drywall tape and mud. First, the workman removes a scoop of mud from a bulk container in a mud supply area and places it in the mud pan. This action is repeated until the pan is full. The workman then walks from the mud supply area to the seam that he wishes to tape. The workman then scoops a quantity of mud onto the knife, turns the knife blade towards the wall, and with a series of wiping motions, coats the seam with mud more or less uniformly. After precutting the seam, the workman lays paper tape over the seam and presses it into the mud to achieve tape attachment. He then glides the knife over the tape, forcing mud and air out from behind the tape, and begins to smooth the surface. A first coat of mud is applied to the drywall tape either at the time that the tape is applied or later, depending on the workman"s technique.

After a period of drying, another coat of mud is applied to the tape and dressed with a drywall knife, thus covering the seam with a wider coat of mud. The same steps of walking to the mud supply area, scooping out mud until the pan is full, and then walking back to the work area are repeated.

After a second period of drying, most inexperienced workmen sand the seams before applying a final coat of mud. The final coat of mud requires further walking between the mud supply and the work areas and further scooping and filling of the mud pan as before.

To overcome the drawbacks of manual drywall tape application and finishing tools such as the mud pan and drywall knife, a drywall taping system has been developed by Ames Tool Company (Ames), for example, that includes a manual, lever action, fluid mud pump that fills assorted mud applicator tools. A hand lever on the manual pump is pumped up and down to transfer drywall mud out of a bucket directly into a mud applicator tool. The mud is squirted into a slot in some tools and into other tools though a special fitting.

However, this system still requires walking between the mud supply and work areas, thus wasting time and energy. Only about ninety feet of tape can be applied with the Ames taper tool before a mud refilling is required, while each roll of paper tape is about 500 feet. Only about three to four vertical seams, where each seam is about eight feet long, can be filled with the Ames box tools before more mud is required. Thus, a day"s work requires hundreds of trips between the mud supply and work areas for mud refills with the Ames drywall taping system.

Additionally, each of the tools in the Ames system takes some toll upon the user"s energy. The Ames taper tool is powered by the user forcing a wheel to turn as it contacts the wall at the end of the tool. The Ames box tool requires the operator to forcefully wipe a box of mud on an extended handle. Each of the Ames tools mechanically disgorge drywall mud as the result of human labor. Many tasks in drywall taping are thus prone to repetitive stress injury.

Furthermore, Ames tools require both a reservoir that holds one shot of mud and a device to manually exude the mud on each tool. The Ames system is expensive, heavy, and manually actuated.

The stators tube pump is well known to the drywall industry. This pump has a hollow threaded internal rubber sleeve encompassing a threaded rod. As the rod is turned, fluid drywall material is forced to exit the pump. However, the stators pump requires an electric motor or gas engine to operate and is thus expensive to build. The stators pump is also very inefficient due to friction, so a large power source is required. Therefore, fluid material delivery systems using a stators pump for drywall work are expensive.

It is an object of an embodiment of the present invention to provide an improved drywall taping and texture system using a pump, which obviates for practical purposes, the above mentioned limitations.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, a drywall taping and texture system for pumping drywall mastic material from a container filled with the drywall mastic material to a work surface includes a pump housing, an air compressor, a tool for applying the drywall mastic material to the work surface, material and control lines, an inflatable bladder, an air release mechanism, and an airway. The pump housing is immersed in the container filled with the drywall mastic material, and the air compressor is connected to the pump housing. The material and control lines are connected between the pump housing and the tool such that there is material and air flow communication, respectively, therebetween. The bladder is mounted within the pump housing between upper and lower valves for controlling the flow of the drywall mastic material. The airway connects the air compressor, the control line, the bladder, and the air release mechanism, such that there is air flow communication therebetween. When the air release mechanism closes, the bladder inflates such that drywall mastic material in the pump housing is pumped through the upper valve, the material line, and the tool to the work surface. When the air release mechanism opens, the bladder deflates such that drywall mastic material in the container is pumped through the lower valve into the pump housing.

In particular embodiments of the present invention, the tool further includes a button for remotely controlling the air release mechanism. In other embodiments of the present invention, each of the upper and lower valves for controlling the flow of the drywall mastic material includes a seat having an orifice through which the drywall mastic material flows and a member for controlling the flow of the drywall mastic material through the orifice. When the member mates with the seat, a seal is formed to block the flow of the drywall mastic material through the orifice. When the member moves in a direction transverse to the seat, flow of the drywall mastic material through the orifice is allowed. In yet other embodiments of the present invention, the pump housing further includes a screen mounted at the bottom thereof for filtering particles out of the drywall mastic material.

A set of drywall mud, tape, and texture application and finishing tools may be attached to and used with the drywall taping and texture system. Such tools include: a tape applicator tool and pneumatic tape cutter attachment for applying muddy drywall tape; a wand tool and a corner tool attachment for placing a bead of mud upon a seam; a mud knife tool for dispensing and dressing coats of mud; a metering mud bead tool; a wall texture spray tool; and an acoustic texture spray tool. A set of adapter parts that allow use of the pump with Ames tools may also be attached to and used with the pump.

In another embodiment of the present invention, a drywall taping and texture system for pumping drywall mastic material from a container filled with the drywall mastic material to a work surface includes a pump housing, a tool for applying the drywall mastic material to the work surface, material and control lines, an inflatable bladder, an inflation sensor, and an air compressor. The pump housing is immersed in the container filled with the drywall mastic material. The material and control lines are connected between the pump housing and the tool such that there is material and air flow communication, respectively, therebetween. The bladder is mounted within the pump housing between upper and lower valves for controlling the flow of the drywall mastic material. The inflation sensor is coupled to the bladder for determining when the bladder is inflated and when the bladder is deflated. The air compressor is mounted within the pump housing and connected to the control line and the bladder such that there is flow communication therebetween. When the inflation sensor determines that the bladder is deflated, the air compressor is activated and the bladder inflates such that drywall mastic material in the pump housing is pumped through the upper valve, the material line, and the tool to the work surface. When the inflation sensor determines that the bladder is inflated, the air compressor is deactivated and the bladder deflates such that drywall mastic material in the container flows through the lower valve into the pump housing.

In another embodiment of the present invention, an apparatus for pumping a fluid includes a housing, an inflatable bladder, and a means for inflating and deflating the bladder. The bladder is mounted within the housing between upper and lower valves for controlling the flow of the fluid. When the bladder is inflated, the fluid in the housing is pumped through the upper valve and out of the apparatus. When the bladder deflates, the fluid is pumped through the lower valve into the housing.

FIG. 3ais a perspective view of the interior parts of the pump shown in FIG. 1. FIG. 3bis a partial cross-sectional view of the interior of the pump shown in FIG. 1.

FIGS. 4aand 4 bare partial cross-sectional views of the interior of the pump illustrating the pump in action. FIG. 4ashows the pump during intake of drywall material, and FIG. 4bshows the pump during exhaust of drywall material.

FIG. 5ais a side, cross-sectional view of a pump cap in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 5bis a top plan view of the pump cap, and FIG. 5cis a perspective view of the pump cap.

FIGS. 9a-9 care views of an electrical version of the pump in accordance with an alternative embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 9ais a partial cross-sectional view of the interior of the pump. FIG. 9bis an exploded perspective view of a solenoid module for controlling the electrical version of the pump. FIG. 9cis an exploded, partial cross-sectional view of an inflation sensor for electronically sensing the condition of the bladder.

FIGS. 18a-18 care views of adapter parts that allow use of the pump with Ames Tool Company"s tools in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 18ashows perspective and top plan views of an Ames adapter button. FIG. 18bis a perspective view of an Ames adapter gooseneck. FIG. 18cshows perspective and top plan views of an Ames adapter box filler.

As shown in the drawings for purposes of illustration, the invention is embodied in a drywall taping and texture system and a pump. In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the drywall taping and texture system utilizes the pump and various tools connected to the pump for applying drywall tape, as well as mastic or fluid drywall mud and texture, to wall surfaces. However, it will be recognized that the pump may be used in other systems and with other fluids, such as oil, gas, or the like.

FIG. 1 shows a perspective view of a drywall taping and texture system using a pump in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention. The drywall taping and texture system includes a pump 1 immersed in a container of mastic or fluid drywall material 32. The pump 1 is supported in the container by a clip 22. Referring to FIGS. 1 and 2, the pump 1 is formed from a generally cylindrical housing 29. The housing 29 is a solid shell with strength to withstand changes in pressure within the pump 1 and to support various parts of the pump 1. The housing 29 may be manufactured from simple drain pipe, which is cut to an appropriate length and then drilled to hold fasteners, such as screws or the like, that penetrate into various parts of the pump 1. The pump 1 has a cap 10, which is attached to the housing 29 using fasteners, such as screws, nails, bolts, or the like. The pump cap 10 has an air stem fitting 13 for connecting to an air compressor 28. The pump cap 10 also has a material line fitting 26 and a control line fitting 27 for connecting a preferably plastic material line or hose 14 and a preferably plastic control line or hose 15, respectively, to the pump 1. The material line 14 and the control line 15 attach at their respective distal ends through another material line fitting 26 and another control line fitting 27, respectively, to a variety of tools, such as a tape applicator tool 200, a wand tool 300, a mud knife tool 400, a mud bead tool 500, a wall texture spray tool 600, and an acoustic texture spray tool 700. The pump 1 can also be attached to a variety of tools manufactured by Ames Tool Company through adapter parts 800, 801, and 802.

In the embodiment illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2, the pump 1 has an air gauge 24 and a pressure relief valve 25. The pressure relief valve 25 is one type of air release valve or mechanism for releasing air from the drywall taping and texture system, as will be discussed below. In alternative embodiments, the air gauge 24 and the pressure relief valve 25 may be omitted.

As shown in FIGS. 3aand 3 b, the bottom of the pump 1 has an intake orifice 8 covered with a screen 9. The screen 9 is a barrier to particulate matter that might ruin the drywall finish or plug the tool attached to the pump 10. The mesh size of the screen 9 is large enough to allow passage of acoustic ceiling grains, but small enough to stop larger particles. An user may change the screen 9 to screen mud or to spray acoustic. The screen 9 is positioned over the intake orifice 8 so that all drywall material 32 passes through the screen 9 prior to entering the pump 1.

In preferred embodiments, the pump 1 has upper and lower valves for controlling the flow of the drywall material 32. In preferred embodiments, the valves are check valves that create a one-way flow of the drywall material 32 upward through the pump 1. In the embodiment illustrated in FIGS. 3a-4 b, each valve includes a seat 3 or 7 having a orifice 8 through which the drywall material 32 flows and a member 2 or 6 for controlling the flow of the drywall material 32 through the orifice 8. However, in alternative embodiments, the valves may include other components, such as flappers or the like. The lower valve is formed from a lower seat 7 and a lower member or ball 6. The upper valve is formed from an upper seat 3 and an upper member or ball 2.

Referring to FIGS. 3a-4 band 6 a-6 d, the upper and lower seats 3 and 7 are generally shaped as a band or ring and are configured to fit with the upper and lower balls 2 and 6, respectively. The seats 3 and 7 are secured to the housing 29 using fasteners, such as screws, nails, bolts, or the like. Drywall material 32 flows through an orifice 8 at about the center of the seat 3 or 7. In the illustrated embodiment, the seat 3 or 7 has a raised ring that contacts the ball 2 or 6, respectively, to separate granular elements from the drywall material 32 for proper sealing of the seat 3 or 7 and the ball 2 or 6, respectively. In alternative embodiments, the seat 3 or 7 may have other shapes. In further alternative embodiments, the raised ring may be omitted.

In the illustrated embodiment, the lower seat 7 holds the screen 9. The intake orifice 8 in the lower seat 7 has lateral vents so that the pump 1 will not be closed off by contact with the bottom of the container of drywall material 32.

The upper and lower balls 2 and 6 are generally similar. The ball 2 or 6 is preferably made from a heavyweight material, such as iron, lead, or the like, and is covered with a soft rubber or rubber-like material, such as elastomeric material or the like. The rubber or rubber-like material helps the ball 2 or 6 to seal with the seat 3 or 7 when stopping the backwards flow of the drywall material 32. By way of example, the ball 2 or 6 may be a solid material ball with a rubber coating, a rubber ball with a lead shot filling, or a spring-loaded ball. The ball 2 or 6 plugs the seat 3 or 7, respectively, when the drywall material 32 flows backwards, but does not stick in the orifice 8 of the seat 3 or 7. The upper and lower valves thus create a one-way flow of the drywall material 32 upward through the pump 1.

The pump 1 has a bladder 5 mounted within the housing 29 between the upper and lower valves. Referring to FIGS. 3a-4 band 7, the bladder 5 is made from a resilient, rubber or rubber-like material, such as elastomeric material or the like, and has a diameter smaller than the diameter of a material chamber 4 of the pump 1. When inflated, the bladder 5 could be larger than the material chamber 4, but is restrained by the cylinder body pump housing 29. The pump housing 29 allows drywall material 32 to flow around the bladder 5, but restrains the bladder 5 when it reaches the maximum allowable size of the interior of the housing 29. The rubber-like material of the bladder 5 has a plastic memory and will resiliently seek to return to its “normal size” (uninflated).

Each tool has a control mechanism, such as a button, that allows the user to remotely control the pump 1, via the control line 15. In particular, the user utilizes the mechanism to deliver drywall material 32 to the work surface as needed and to control an air release valve or mechanism directly connected to the tool or remotely located on the pump 1. FIGS. 8a-8 eillustrate several types of such air release mechanisms.

Referring to FIGS. 8cthrough 8 e, the air release mechanism includes a hollow axle 60 with a radial hole 61 and a wheel 62 with a radial hole 63. As the wheel 62 is rolled along the work surface, the wheel 62 rotates around the axle 60. When the radial hole 61 in the axle 60 is aligned with the radial hole 63 in the wheel 62, the air release mechanism temporarily opens and air is released through the radial hole 63 in the wheel 62. Otherwise, when the radial hole 61 in the axle 60 is not aligned with the radial hole 63 in the wheel 62, the air release mechanism is closed. This type of air release mechanism is also directly connected to the tool. On such a tool, drywall material 32 flows to the work surface through another radial hole 64 in the axle 60 and one or more radial holes 65 in the wheel 62. When the radial hole 64 in the axle 60 is aligned with one of the radial holes 65 in the wheel 62, drywall material 32 flows out of the tool and onto the work surface.

Referring to FIGS. 4aand 4 b, when the pump 1 is placed in the container filled with mastic or fluid drywall material 32, drywall material 32 wants to flow into the pump 1 due to gravity. The lower ball 6 is lifted out of the lower seat 7 due to greater pressure outside the pump 1 and lower pressure inside the pump 1. Resistance to the flow of the drywall material 32 from the container into the pump 1 is minor because the lower valve resists flow in the opposite direction. Once the pump 1 is filled with drywall material 32, the bladder 5 is inflated, resulting in positive pressure within the pump 1. This pressure closes the lower valve and also lifts the upper ball 2 out of the upper seat 3, thus forcing drywall material 32 through the material line 14 and the attached tool, and onto the work surface.

Each tool has a button for remotely controlling the pump 1 via the control line 15. When the user presses the button, the release of air at the tool or at the pump 1 is stopped. Pressure builds up in the control line 15 and causes the bladder 5 to inflate, thus forcing drywall material 32 through the upper valve and out of the pump 1, through the material line 14 and the tool, and onto the work surface. After a surge of a certain volume of drywall material 32, the user reduces the air pressure by releasing air at the tool or at the pump 1. The bladder 5 quickly deflates and reduces the volume of the bladder within the pump 1. The resulting partial vacuum formed by the shrinking bladder 5 refills the material chamber 4 of the pump 1 with drywall material 32 through the lower valve. Subsequent inflation of the bladder 5 forces drywall material 32 through the upper valve because space within the material chamber 4 is reduced as the bladder 5 inflates. A surge of drywall material 32 is thus created, which flows out of the pump 1, through the material hose 14 and attached tool, and onto the work surface. When a more continuous flow of drywall material 32 is needed, the user simply needs to continuously hold down the remote control button on the tool, which causes the pressure within the bladder 5 to rise to a preset maximum level.

FIGS. 9a-9 cillustrate an electrical version of the pump 1 in accordance with an alternative embodiment of the present invention. The air compressor 28 is mounted within the pump housing 29 and is connected to the bladder 5. An inflation sensor, which includes a magnet 41 attached to the bladder 5 and a reed switch 42 attached to the housing 29, determines the inflation state of the bladder 5. When the inflation sensor determines that the bladder 5 is deflated, the air compressor 28 is turned on to inflate the bladder 5. When the inflation sensor determines that the bladder 5 is inflated, the air compressor 28 is turned off. The air compressor 28 may be pneumatically controlled with a solenoid module 40 or electrically controlled.

As shown in FIG. 9a, the pump 1 has a secondary exhaust valve at a material exhaust orifice 16, which is connected to the material line fitting 26 and the material line 14. The secondary exhaust valve includes a secondary check ball 19, seat 20, and chamber 21, which support the material line fitting 26. This secondary valve is optional and is only required for some fluid materials.

The set of tools that may be used with the pump 1 includes drywall mud, tape, and texture application and finishing devices. Each tool connects to the material line 14 and the control line 15. Referring to FIGS. 19a-19 e, an universal tool fitting part 900 is provided for use with the tools. This part 900 allows for convenient mass production of the drywall taping and texture system. The universal fitting part 900 is preferably made using an injection molding process. The universal fitting part 900 forms the handle, the material line fitting 901, the control line fitting 902, and the control button 903 on the wand tool 300, the mud knife tool 400, the mud bead tool 500, the wall texture spray tool 600, and the acoustic texture spray tool 700.

As shown in FIGS. 10aand 10 b, the tape applicator tool 200 is used to hold, cut, and apply drywall tape and mud. The tool 200 connects to the material line 14 and control line 15 via fittings 201 and 202. The tape applicator tool 200 has a cavity that holds a supply of drywall tape 206 and an area to advance and cut off the tape 204. The tool 200 also has a material line that feeds the drywall material 32 into a wetting chamber as it flows out of the tool 200 onto the work surface. The tool 200 further has a base plate 203 to enclose the tool and a set of tape rollers 207. The tape applicator tool 200 may have a metering wheel to retrieve drywall material 32 from the pump 1 according to the distance that the tool 200 is moved along the work surface. As illustrated in FIGS. 11athrough 11 c, a pneumatic tape cutter 220 may also be added to the tape applicator tool 200 for cutting the drywall tape 206.

Referring to FIGS. 12aand 12 b, the wand tool 300 is used to apply drywall mud to seams. The tool 300 is a hollow, elongated tool with threads 301 on the distal end, material and control line fittings 307 and 308, and a control button 306. When the user covers an air release hole on the button 306, the bladder 5 in the pump 1 inflates and forces drywall material 32 out of the pump 1, through the material line 14 and the tool 300, and onto the work surface. Referring to FIG. 13, a corner tool 320 may be attached to the threaded end 301 of the wand tool 300 via a threaded end 311 of the corner tool 320. The corner tool 320 delivers drywall material 32 into corners through a hole 310. The corner-shaped blades 309 finish the corners as the tool 320 is slid back and forth over the corner seam.

Referring to FIGS. 14 and 14b, the mud knife tool 400 is used for dispensing and dressing coats of mud. The tool 400 consists of a broad knife blade 401 and a smaller knife blade 402 mounted next to the broad knife blade 401. The tool also has a handle 404, material and control line fittings 406 and 407, and a control button 405. When the user covers an air release hole on the button 405, the bladder 5 inflates and forces drywall material 32 out of the pump 1, through the material line 14, and to the mud knife tool 400, where the mud valve 403 is activated when the blades 402 and 401 are flexed against the work surface.

As illustrated in FIGS. 15aand 15 b, the mud bead tool 500 is used to measure a distance rolled and to apply a bead of mud for other tools. The tool 500 consists of an elongated hollow body 506, material and control line fittings 501 and 502, a control button 507, and a wheel 503 on the distal end of the tool 500 that is rolled upon the work surface. As the wheel 503 is rolled upon the work surface and the control button 507 is depressed, drywall material 32 flows out of the distal end of the mud bead tool 500. When a radial hole in the wheel 503 is momentarily aligned with a radial hole in a hollow axle 504, air is released, causing the bladder to deflate and drywall material 32 to flow into the pump 1 from the container. The resulting effect is periods of pressurization and quick periods of depressurization. A tape roll holder 506 that supports a roll of drywall tape 206 may be attached to the mud bead tool 500 to form a tape applicator tool. A pneumatic cutter 320 may also be attached to the mud bead tool 500.

In addition to the tools described above, the pump 1 may be used with tools manufactured by the Ames Tool Company. A set of three parts is required to convert the pump 1 to this use. The control line 15 is replaced with an adapter button 800, and the material line 14 is replaced with an adapter gooseneck 801 and an adapter box filler part 802. These parts make the drywall taping and texture system backwards compatible with the Ames Tool Company"s tools.

Here are several tools I discovered that make a drywall job much easier for the average homeowner or even a professional.  First up: a drywall screw gun.  There are a variety of them, including ones that feed screws into the gun so you don’t have to put in one screw at a time.  They make one-handed operation a snap.

If you’re putting up drywall on a  ceiling, you could ask a friend to help lift and hold the sheets while you screw them in.  But that can be difficult, time-consuming, and could end your friendship if things go south.  Instead, rent a drywall lift for about $30 a day.  They adjust easily, are simple to use and can hold almost any size drywall sheet. It takes only one person to operate one, making it almost effortless to lift a piece of drywall into place. You can also buy a good drywall liftfor about $150 if you plan to take your time.  They can be delivered to your home in a box and can be assembled in minutes without tools.

After screwing in your drywall, there’s mudding and taping the seams.  It’s necessary to make the seams flat so the drywall can be painted or finished.  After you’ve thinned your mud a bit with water, there’s another device to help you out.  It’s called a banjo and can be found in plastic or metal.  It doesn’t look like a banjo, but it makes mudding and taping an easy, all-in-one proposition.

You put a roll of tape on the back part of the banjo wheel and thread it through the banjo and out the other side.  It leaves a space for the mud to be put right onto the tape.  The tape and mud come out together.  You then roll it over a seam and embed the tape and mud into the joint.  It’s less messy and much faster for a homeowner and pros.  The cost is only about $30, so no need to rent one–just buy it.

The next step is covering those joints with another layer of mud, so it’s close to flat.  That’s where the pros make it look much better than most any homeowner can.  But you can get what are called “drywall boxes” that make the job much better looking than you can do by hand.  Many professionals use them as well.  They often come in a kit, with a mud pump and one or two drywall boxes for different widths.

You fill the boxes full of mud, lift them up to a wall or ceiling joint, then press and drag.  It fills the void to a consistent depth with mud and scrapes off the excess.  You may need to go both directions on the ceiling for the best coverage!   It’s a tool you may want to rent as they cost more than $500 for the kit.   If you do buy them, just keep them clean after each use by spraying them down with a garden hose, and sell them when you’re done.  They fetch a decent price on eBay.

Then there’s the part everyone seems to hate: sanding.  It’s a dusty, time-consuming mess.  But there is one tool that can almost eliminate dust.  It’s a drywall sander that attaches to your small shop vacuum.   Connect the two, then turn on both.  Rub the circular sanding pad across the mudded part of the drywall.  It gets rid of high spots in seconds and the vacuum sucks up all the drywall dust before it’s off the wall.  There are a variety of these products on the internet for under $150 with pads.  When I did my basement, I only used two pads for the entire basement and had virtually no dust, unless I forgot to turn on the vacuum.

The final tool I tried were drywall stilts.  They get you closer to the ceiling or high walls for touch-ups, taping or whatever.  I learned how to walk on them, but never really used them much.  I found standing on a wide aluminum bench or even a 5 gallon bucket was just as easy and there was far less chance of falling down!  The professionals make them look easy. If you want to give them a try, you can buy them for around $100.