vintage two man hand mud pump for sale

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The NOV 12-P-160 Mud Pumps includes (3) Three New National 12-P-160 Triplex Mud Pumps 1600 HP, 7-1/4″ bore x 12″ stroke, single acting. 5000 PSI fluid ends. 1600 HP Bare Mud Pumps are currently configured for Offshore Service. The NOV 12-P-160 Mud Pumps are located in Houston and ready to be unitized for service.

Forged Steel crankshaft, Individual forged steel two piece interchangeable standard modules, 6-1/2” mission fluid king liners, Standard polyurethane valves and seats, Two piece fast change piston rods, Supreme pistons, Metal to metal liner retention, Clamp type liner and piston rod connections, Fast change valve covers standard, Piston liner lubricant spray system, Liner spray pump, Power end lube system with filter. Mounted on Integral two runner skid, Suction Manifold with vertical suction stabilizer, Suction line pressure relief valve, set for 70 PSI

Includes: motor supports, motor frame, tensioning screws, 2 V-belt guards, 2 pump Sheaves, 2 motor sheaves, banded V-belts, Holes to be drilled to accept EDM D79 Or GE-752 Traction Motors

National Oilwell Varco (NOV) is an American multinational corporation based in Houston, Texas. It is a leading worldwide provider of equipment and components used in oil and gas drilling and production operations, oilfield services, and supply chain integration services to the upstream oil and gas industry. The company conducts operations in more than 600 locations across six continents, operating through three reporting segments: Rig Technologies, Wellbore Technologies, and Completion & Production Solutions. National Oilwell’s two main predecessors, Oilwell Supply and National Supply, were founded in 1862 and 1893, respectively. These two companies manufactured and distributed pumps and derricks.

We supply pumps for - Flood relief | Ground water control | Mine dewatering | Well point dewatering | Industrial sludge pumping | Emergency pumping | Sewage over-pumping.

All of our used pumps are fully tested and serviced to be in good working order. If necessary repainted to our standard red finish (other colour options available at extra cost).

Normally 3 month return to base warranty is given for used pumps sold within mainland England, Wales and Scotland excluding the following postcodes: FK, KY, PA, PH, DD and the Highlands. Please contact us for further details.

Please note that pump photographs on this page are for general guidance only and may not depict the actual pump offered. All ex-rental, ex-hire, pre-owned and refurbished water pumps supplied in excellent condition.

76mm solids handling capability and wet priming system ideal for industrial, flood relief, sewage by-pass, over-pumping and other commercial applications.

Each pump is fitted with a Hydovar variable speed drive allowing for contact pressure or flow rates varing between 10-70m and flow rates 1-11.75lps depending on set-up.

Set features manifold mounted control starter panel, 2no 24litre stainless steel pressure vessels and a 5lps rated electromagnetic water conditioner which eliminates the build-up of calcium/limescale without the need of chemicals.

Driven by a Deutz radiator cooled, electric start diesel engine model D2009L03. Mounted in a sound attenuated canopy with central lifting eye, chassis integral bunded fuel tank, and 25cfm vacuum pump priming system incorporating priming tank and non-return valve fitted on discharge.

Driven by a Iveco, radiator cooled, electric start diesel engine mounted on a skid base frame with central lifting eye, guarding and vacuum pump priming system.

Ideal for Emergency pumping services, Docks, ports and harbours, Refineries, Water and waste treatment, Local authorities, Offshore and float outs, Quarries and mines, Building and construction, Manufacture and industry, Power stations, Tunnelling, Agriculture.

Driven by a Isuzu, radiator cooled, electric starter diesel engine model 4LE2 mounted in a gull wing door sound attenuated canopy with variable speed throttle, central lifting eye, chassis integral bunded fuel tank and SPP’s vacuum priming system with automatic clutch to disengage vacuum pump when primed.

New SPP/Kirloskar horizontal spilt case pump with twin stage impellers complete with packed gland seal and stainless steel shaft. Fitted with 6” NP16 flanged suction and delivery branches.

Kirloskar 150mm x 125mm DSM 125-4 split-casing pump being two stage impeller manufactured in quality cast iron, bronze type wear rings, stainless steel shaft with multi ring packed glands and outboard bearing.

This pump is fitted with SPP Automatic Priming equipment with a 25CFM vacuum pump being oil lubricated. All mounted on robust chassis fuel tank frame with central lifting frame and fork lift pockets.

Ideal for site drainage, raw/process water, storm/flood water, emergency pumping, sewage over pumping, sludge, slurry, bentonite, viscous liquids and other industrial applications.

Driven by a JCB radiator cooled, electric start diesel engine model TC-63 mounted in a sound attenuated canopy with central lifting eye, forklift pockets, chassis integral bunded fuel tank and automatic self-priming diaphragm pump system.

Should you be stuck for power why not consider a diesel engine generator. This can be situated remote from the pump. Please note this can be offered at extra cost.

Fitted with Xylems N-Impeller for improved solids handling of large soft solids or long fibrous material. Fitted with Godwin"s Dri-Prime ejector system enabling automatic self-priming suction lifts of 8.5m though 6m or less is recommended.

Fitted with Selwood’s water resistant diaphragm pump for automatic self-priming from suction lifts of 8.5m though 6m or less is recommended and a mechanical seal running in a oil bath which allows running dry without damage.

The multi-vane open impeller is designed for high efficiency operation while still handling solids up to 30mm spherical diameter. ;Discharge flow rates and heads dependent on motor sizes. Motors can be supplied at an extra cost.

New and unused ETL50-1-120A in-line aviation fluid pump with 2” DN50 flanged suction and delivery branches. Close coupled to a ATEX approved Siemans, TEFC 3kw, 440v, 60hz electric motor.

New and unused ETL50-3-200A in-line aviation fluid pump with 1.1/2” DN40 flanged suction and delivery branches. Close coupled to a ATEX approved Siemans, TEFC 11kw, 440v, 60hz electric motor.

The pump type ETL (OH5) vertically in-line mounted, close coupled, radial split case, single stage, single suction, heavy duty centrifugal process pumps.

The design complies with the latest edition of the American Petroleum Institute standard "Centrifugal Pumps For General Refinery Services", also known as API 610/ ISO13709.

The in-line configuration is a compact pumping solution with mounting the impeller to an extended motor drive shaft presents a very compact pumping solution. The ETL (OH5) offers a space saving footprint and eliminates expensive baseplates. (This pump is also available in long coupled pump type ETLS (OH3) for high temperature applications)

Ideal for Fluid handling in oil refineries and petrochemical industry, High temperature and high pressure critical applications in chemical and allied industry, Upstream, pressure booster, Midstream, process transfer, bottom reflux, propane/butane/LPG handling, diesel oil/gasoline/naphtha/lube oils etc., sodium carbonate/caustic sour water, MEA/DEA/TEA, Fertilizer, carbonates/lean and semi lean solutions, NH3 feed, other removals, Power plant, Hot water circulation, condensate transfer, fuel oil, Onshore/Offshore installations, FSPO platforms, Hydrocarbon storage, Liquid gas plants.

The Spate 3B pump can handle dirty water, slurries, light and heavy oils. Can also handle petroleum industry products, including some of the more viscous liquids, at a high, non-turbulent flow rate.

These centrifugal pumps with closed impeller, feature a unique agitator design. This agitator lifts sediments into suspension, creating a slurry mixture and enables the continuous pumping of media with a high concentration of solids.

Robust construction, careful selection of materials and unique contour components have produced a pump with excellent abrasion resistance which, coupled with a low speed high torque motor, ensures long service life and economical operation.

LVA505 end suction pump with 6” flange suction and 4” flange delivery branches. Long coupled to a 45kw, 4pole, 415v TEFC electric motor mounted on a base frame with coupling guard.

New BP235K 6 stage diaphragm pump c/w safety relief valve belt driven by a Hatz electric start diesel engine model 1D90Z with at least 3 hour running integral fuel tank.

The unit is mounted on a skid base with forklift pockets and protective steel frame. The pump can produce between 162 and 222 l/m depending on engine speed at a constant 20bar pressure.

Nearly new Calpeda NM25/16AE Pump with 1.1/2 inch female BSP suction and 1 inch BSP female delivery connections coupled to a 1.5kw, 415 volt, 50hz TEFC electric motor.

Capable of a maximum flow rate of 3.6 m 3 / hr at a maximum head of 49.4m. This pump has a 1 / 4 inch BSP. Suitable for pressure boosting applications.

New - Unused Xylem / Lowara MP100.1/6A horizontal multistage Vogal pump with enlarged 8" flanged suction and reduced 3" Vitriolic discharge connection.

Long coupled to a 2 pole, 160kw, 50hz, 415v electric TEFC motor base mounted complete with coupling guards, valves fitted to both suction and delivery, along with a Mahle filter mounted on the discharge side of the pump.

Portable Submersible Pump & Hose Trolley built for customer to enable multiple bores to be sampled in multiple areas. Complete with panel for full variable speed control and ‘plug & play’ ease of use

Food Grade Neoprene or Nitrile impeller, Carbon/ceramic mechanical type seal, this unit can be used for the safe pumping of food grade products and materials.

Used Worthington Simpson 6L13 split case pump with 8” flanged suction and 6” flanged delivery branches. Long coupled to a 132kw, 50/60hz 2pole TEFC electric motor mounted on a base frame complete with coupling guard.

Please note that pump photographs on this page are for general guidance only and may not depict the actual pump offered. All ex-rental, ex-hire, pre-owned and refurbished water pumps supplied in excellent condition.

We have available for sale a range of used 2” metallic and non-metallic air driven diaphragm pumps. Sold fully checked, tested and re-painted prior to dispatch.

We have available for sale a range of used 2” metallic and non-metallic air driven diaphragm pumps. Sold fully checked, tested and re-painted prior to dispatch.

We have available for sale a range of used 2” metallic and non-metallic air driven diaphragm pumps. Sold fully checked, tested and re-painted prior to dispatch.

We have available for sale a range of used 2” metallic and non-metallic air driven diaphragm pumps. Sold fully checked, tested and re-painted prior to dispatch.

The diaphragm operates in a balanced condition during the discharge stroke which allows the pump to be operated at discharge heads of over 200 feet (61 metres) of water.

The diaphragm operates in a balanced condition during the discharge stroke which allows the pump to be operated at discharge heads of over 200 feet (61 metres) of water.

The ARO Diaphragm Pump offers high volume delivery even at low air pressure. ARO pumps feature stall resistant design, modular air motor / fluid sections.

For sale we have a yellow chemical cabinet. This cabinet which has a lockable door and COSHH instructional documentation inside also has two ARO IR Intersol Pumps, Diaphragm Air pumps with a typical flow rate of 35gpm subject to air flow.

The above descriptions are provided in good faith, we do our best to offer factual information on all used equipment. "we as a result of selling two used generators, we had provided incorrect operational hours, which had been relayed onto a customer by mistake". We do our best to offer factual information however we take no responsibility for any or all information provided written or oral.

A mud pump is a reciprocating piston/plunger pump designed to circulate drilling fluid under high pressure (up to 7,500 psi (52,000 kPa)) down the drill string and back up the annulus. A duplex mud pump is an important part of the equipment used for oil well drilling.

Duplex mud pumps (two piston/plungers) have generally been replaced by the triplex pump, but are still common in developing countries. Two later developments are the hex pump with six vertical pistons/plungers, and various quintuplex’s with five horizontal piston/plungers. The advantages that Duplex mud pumps have over convention triplex pumps is a lower mud noise which assists with better Measurement while drilling and Logging while drilling decoding.

Use duplex mud pumps to make sure that the circulation of the mud being drilled or the supply of liquid reaches the bottom of the well from the mud cleaning system. Despite being older technology than the triplex mud pump, the duplex mud pumps can use either electricity or diesel, and maintenance is easy due to their binocular floating seals and safety valves.

A mud pump is composed of many parts including mud pump liner, mud pump piston, modules, hydraulic seat pullers, and other parts. Parts of a mud pump:housing itself

Duplex pumps are used to provide a secondary means of fuel transfer in the event of a failure of the primary pump. Each pump in a duplex set is sized to meet the full flow requirements of the system. Pump controllers can be set for any of the following common operating modes:Lead / Lag (Primary / Secondary): The lead (primary) pump is selected by the user and the lag (secondary pump operates when a failure of the primary pump is detected.

Alternating: Operates per Lead / Lag (Primary / Secondary) except that the operating pump and lead / lag status alternate on consecutive starts. A variation is to alternate the pumps based on the operating time (hour meter) of the lead pump.

In 1848 Seabury S. Gould purchased an interests in Downs, Mynderse & Co. and the firm became Downs & Co. Wooden pumps were produced in an old cotton factory building. In 1869, the name of the company was changed from Downs & Company to Goulds Manufacturing Company.

Seabury S. Gould, a man of unusual vision, was the founder of Goulds Manufacturing Company. He keenly watched as the first pump casting emerged from its mold of sand. An iron pump, he believed, would overcome all the disadvantages of a wooden pump. It would be strong and efficient and provide fresh flowing water for the pioneers. He ran the company until after the Civil War.

Because Goulds Manufacturing Company had a foundry, they produced all kinds of cast products such as corn shellers, bells, sad irons, sinks, tools, and a line of fire engines.

This Goulds bell, still rings loud and clear 169 years after it was manufactured. The bell sold for $8 and was used in farms, plantations, school houses and factories. It was dedicated at the opening of the new Goulds corporate headquarters on May 13, 1979.

This ¼-horsepower sump pump weighs 6.8 pounds and moves up to 1,800 gallons per hour (gph) to keep your basement or low-lying area safe from floodwater. Built with thermoplastic, this sump pump is a durable flood-prevention device that includes a removable suction screen.

Customers with varying needs found this sump pump to be useful, stating that it operated efficiently and quietly. They added that the pump’s filter did a great job in preventing the unit from getting clogged due to dirt, debris, or algae build-up. Customers who were disappointed in this product wished that it would’ve lasted longer, citing reliability and longevity issues.

This submersible sump pump is built with cast-iron motor components that withstand a variety of conditions and keep your home protected from rising water. It includes a float-activated switch that automatically powers the pump when it detects rising water levels.

Although customer feedback was mixed, over 80% of reviewers gave this sump pump a five-star rating at the time of this review. Happy customers mentioned the pump’s simple installation and affordable price point in their positive reviews. Unhappy customers said that while the pump was heavy-duty, it shorted out after a few years, expecting greater longevity out of the product. Additionally, one user had issues with the flow valve leaking.

This sump pump has a 1⁄3-horsepower motor activated by a vertical float switch to keep your basement dry. It’s designed with quality cast iron and stainless steel, minimizing the risk of air locks and clogs. The sump pump works in sump basins that are 11 inches or larger.

Positively, customers who give this sump pump a four- or five-star rating reported that the unit consistently moved water without any issues, meeting or exceeding their expectations. In some reviews, they also mentioned that the manufacturer’s Halo mobile app was convenient for remotely monitoring the pump’s status. Negatively, there were complaints about the pump’s float switch working intermittently rather than consistently.

This unit is built for large 16-inch sump basins and has a built-in backup battery that pumps up to 10,000 gallons of water on a single charge. It has a ½-horsepower motor protected by a durable cast-iron and epoxy-coated steel frame, pumping 5,100 gallons of water per hour.

Positive aspects of this sump pump that users highlighted included its compact size, fast installation, quiet operation, and overall power. On the other hand, several reviewers reported that the manufacturer was slow to respond to their inquiries, or didn’t respond at all, despite multiple attempts. One user also complained about the plastic threads in the discharge outlet, stating that it was difficult to screw in adapters.

This model is equipped with a piggyback plug that lets homeowners automatically or manually turn on the pump to discharge up to 2,760 gallons of water per hour. It includes a ⅓-horsepower motor contained inside a heavy-duty cast-iron frame to secure the pump inside the pit.

Satisfied users who gave this pump positive reviews said that it was an effective pump that performed just as strongly after two years of use as it did on the first day of use. They also appreciated the pump’s effortless installation. Conversely, there were some reports of the sump pump’s cast iron materials prematurely rusting, rendering the unit useless for a handful of customers. Additionally, some users said that the float switch was too short, which lead to excess standing water.

With its thermoplastic materials and 1/4-horsepower motor, this sump pump will make sure that your property remains undamaged due to excess water intrusion. Its built-in bottom suction filter removes water down to a 1/4-inch of the surface to prevent dirt clogging.

Given the pump’s entry-level price point, several customers were impressed with how reliable and powerful it was. They mentioned that the pump was effective for draining pools, adding that the 10-foot power cord offered some flexibility with the positioning of the pump. Alternatively, there were some complaints about the unit’s inability to pump viscous, muddy water, and others wished that the unit pumped water faster.

Submersible sump pumps are completely submerged in the pit, or sump basin, that’s located below your basement’s floor. Once the pit fills with a certain amount of water, a sensor is triggered, which turns on the sump pump to pump the water out. This type of sump pump is typically quieter than other types of sump pumps because its motor is inside the pump, but it’s more expensive than other pumps.

Pedestal sump pumps sit in a basin that’s level with your basement floor and remove water through a pipe that leads to a drainage area in your yard. They’re more affordable than submersible sump pumps, but their motor is attached to the outside of the device, making them noisier.

Unlike submersible and pedestal models that run solely on electricity through a power cord, battery backup sump pumps have a battery-powered backup pump that kicks on when the main unit can’t run due to a power outage. The battery on the backup pump can typically last for a few hours on a single charge. While this is enough for short surges, the battery will eventually die if it’s pumping a lot of water during an hours-long outage.

Combination sump pumps include the power cord of pedestal and submersible models and the backup battery of battery models, allowing them to work in all situations. They usually sit in a below-the-floor basin like submersible sump pumps, but they’re larger, which means you can’t use the basin you dug for your old submersible sump pump for your new combination sump pump.

Before purchasing and installing a sump pump, it’s important to understand how each model’s design and specifications impact its performance. Here are a few factors to consider when buying a sump pump.

Most sump pumps are powered by electricity, but some models include a battery backup that powers the device in the event of a blackout. For example, some pumps include a battery that can pump thousands of gallons on a single charge. Models that don’t have a battery backup can pump thousands of gallons of water per hour as long as electricity is available.

The horsepower (HP) of a sump pump’s motor refers to its overall power, with a higher HP motor being able to pump more water per hour than a lower HP motor. Many sump pumps contain ½-HP or ⅓-HP engines, though some models contain more powerful ¾-HP engines. While higher HP motors can pump more water per hour, they’re typically more expensive.

Most sump pumps use either a digital or manual switch to start their motors. Manual models contain floats that rise with the flood water, turning on the pumps when the water reaches a certain level. When the floats dip below the set level, the pump stops.

Other models feature digital on-and-off sensors. When the water rises to meet the on sensor, the pump starts working. Once the water lowers and reaches the off sensor, the pump turns off. The benefit of digital switches is that they continue pumping water until they reach the off sensor, even if the water level dips below the on sensor.

Sump pumps are usually made of plastic or some sort of metal, such as aluminum, stainless, steel, or cast iron. Plastic sump pumps are more affordable, but they’re not as durable as metal sump pumps.

A sump pump is typically placed in a basement to prevent damage brought on by significant flooding. It detects rising water levels and then pumps that water out of your basement and directs it away from your home.

Sump pumps can develop an odor if they haven’t been used in a while. Infrequent use causes the water in the pump’s basin to fully dry, releasing smelly gases into the air. Mold and bacteria growth inside the pump and the basin can also cause a smell.

You can eliminate these odors by creating a solution with a ratio of 1 cup of bleach to every 1 gallon of water. Pour this solution into the basin until the pump is activated. To prevent an odor from developing in the future, wash your sump pump regularly and keep the basin full of enough fresh water to cover the drain lines.

Ok! This is not an easy task, and I recommend that anyone thinking about doing it AT LEAST consider having the well pump identified as the failed component by a professional prior to undertaking it. In my case, the water in my house stopped working (on a Friday night, of course). I know my system pretty well and was able to determine that the fault in my system COULD NOT BE ANYTHING BUT my well pump motor before I took any action. Guess what? I called the plumber anyway. If nothing else, you"ll pay $60 to have your diagnosis confirmed and maybe even get an estimate that will provide you with the motivation to do the job on your own. (My estimate to pull and replace the well was $2400... By following these steps I was able to do the job myself for less than $400!)

The well used in this example is relatively shallow. It only runs about 100"-120" deep. Some wells can run to depths of hundreds (or thousands!) of feet. In the case of anything deeper than about 250" I would recommend that you have it pulled by a pro. Why? Because it"s HEAVY! And there are special tools that contractors have to lift the pump from that kind of depth. Look at it this way: Even if you have someone else pull the well, you can do the repair/replace action on your own once it"s out of the ground, and still save money. ;)

My well was dug about 25 years ago. One of the things that happens with older wells is that, over a period of several years, silt from the aquifer can seep into the bottom of the casing. That"s a bad thing. Why? Because the silt builds up to a depth that"s too close to the pump, and the pump ends up sucking up the silt and muck from the bottom of the well, and then pushes it into your house! (You"ll see the result of this kind of thing in the following pictures.)

The weight of the whole pump assembly hangs on the water hose that the pump uses to push water into the house. Up near the top the water tube hits what"s called a "pitless connector," where it makes a hard right turn toward the house.

See how the pump looks a bit like a bottle made of two pieces? The bottom part is the motor. The top part is the impeller that sucks the water out of the well and sends it to the house.

When one turns on the sink to wash one"s hands or when we flush a toilet, we tend to think that we"re pulling water directly from the well to do it. In actuality, we"re not! In a properly outfitted house, you"re pulling water from a pressurized tank that acts as sort of a "middle man." (Some artesian wells don"t have this set up, but let"s pretend they do!)

When you turn on the water to wash your hands or flush your toilet, the amount of water stored in the pressure tank is reduced. Reduced water in the tank means reduced pressure. The pressure switch on the tank is set up so that it knows what point to turn ON the pump (pulling water up from the well to replace what you"ve used), and what point to turn OFF the pump (to keep your system from exploding). Having a pressure tank does two things for you:

Ideally, your well pump should be able to push more water than above-average household use will require. (Most houses are recommended to have a pump that will support 5 gallons per minute.) That way, more water per minute is pushed up from the well than you can (normally) expect to be able to get out of a sink, or a shower. By having a pump that exceeds your practical use, the pressure tank is able to maintain steady flow. There will always be more water available to the tank than you can pull from the tap. With the right pump, you can have two showers, a sink and a toilet all flowing at the same time without any discernible drop in pressure.

Once you"ve made your wrench, you just stick it down into the well, thread it into the connector and get ready to PULL. While you do that, make sure someone is holding onto the safety rope! If anything goes wrong, and your partner happens to NOT be holding the rope, the well pump will fall into the abyss... lost forever.

It"s very important that you NOT get any kinks in the water line (the black tube). So, pulling the pump is definitely a two person job. As one person pulls it up out of the well, the other person walks it (in a straight line or in a curve) away from the well.

Dogs are really helpful to have around when doing a job like this. Moral support is important. Especially when, after a couple of minutes pulling up the well pump, you realize that you"ve been making some very poor decisions about exercise and eating habits.

Keep in mind, the well pump (itself) usually weighs about 50 lbs. The water trapped in the tube also holds significant weight. The deeper the well, the more weight you"re dealing with. Plus, there"s that whole "physics and leverage" thing to deal with.

Furthermore, up until this point, I had no idea what kind of well pump was down there. They come in various configurations of power, voltage, number of wires, and number of gallons per minute. Normally, the Horsepower Rating is written (as a courtesy) on the underside of the well cap. No such luck here. I had to pull it up just to find out what it was. You may be in the same boat when it"s time to do yours.

Turns out that mine was a 3/4 HP Jacuzzi. They sold out to a company called Franklin Electric years ago. Since it was just the motor that fried, it might have been possible to order a replacement motor (which would generate significant savings), but that might have taken days or weeks to find/deliver. I didn"t want to measure the amount of time I was without water in terms of "days or weeks." Plus, this pump was so clogged with gunk that it wasn"t worth taking the chance on another failure. A whole new pump was definitely required.

Note: This is one of those moments where it"s good to get along with your neighbors. Thanks to mine, we were able to hose off the motor to find out exactly what the specs were. (See, the source of my water was sitting on the ground... Hence I had no water with which to hose off the pump!) The worn out pump ran on about 8 amps, and pushed about 6.8 gallons per minute. It"s a 220V, two-wire motor. That"s exactly the sort of thing you need to know when you"re buying a replacement. Make notes or take pictures of this information and take it with you to the store.

Let"s take a look at the cleaned-off pump. You"ll note the two pieces, (like in my drawing). The far left is the electric motor. The dirty clyinder in the middle-left is the impeller. The black stuff in the middle is a WHOLE LOT of electrical tape, covering the spliced electrical connections for the motor and the check valve that keeps water from flowing back into the well. The thing that looks like a bulb (toward the right) is called a "torque arrestor." Remember how I told you that my well casing is 6" wide? Well... the well pump is only 4" wide. The Torque Arrestor rubs up against the well casing and keeps the pump from spinning at the bottom of the well.

Since I knew that the well pump had been sitting in muck for who knows how long, it seemed like a good idea to shorten the length of the water tube. As you can see, I walked off about 10" of tube length from the well pump and prepared to make my cut. (By the way, I used a set of ratcheting pipe cutters. If you don"t have a set of these, they go for about $11 at home depot and they make life SO much easier when you"re doing plumbing.) Making the tube shorter would result in a shallower suspension and (hopefully) preserve the life of the new pump.

YUCK! That"s a 1" tube so full of compacted muck that it really restricted the flow of water to my house. NO WONDER THE PUMP FAILED! Keep in mind, we"ve done testing for harmful bacteria and a slew of other things on our well and it"s always come up clean... but still. Ew!

Before we head to the store to buy the replacement pump, we needed to make sure that the shopping list included EVERYTHING. We already knew we needed the well pump and the water line, but what kind of shape was the pitless adapter in? I know it looks rough, but it"s actually not that bad. I gave it a quick scrub under the garden hose, and inspected the O-Ring.

I genuinely recommend that you do a little searching around on the web for a replacement pump before jumping in your car and assuming that Home Depot or Lowes will have the one you need, in stock. I got extremely lucky. I didn"t search before I got in the car. The nearest store happened to have the pump I needed. I later learned it was the only one in stock within 30 miles of me! As luck would have it, it also turns out that this one produces TEN gallons per minute at a lower rated amperage than the original. (Hooray for improvements in technology!)

This Flotec pump had a sticker price of under $340. Since it was Memorial day, they gave me the 10% Veteran"s discount at Home Depot, (shameless plug for businesses that respect military service). In the end, it wound up costing me a little over $300. GOOD DEAL!

Note: This model did not come with the check valve, or the reducer needed to get down to the 1" spur I would need for the water line. Sadly, home depot didn"t carry the right check valve, or spur, for this pump. I had to go somewhere else for that.... a place that did NOT offer the Veteran"s discount and hence shall not be named in this instructable.

Looking at the close-up picture of the assembly, there"s a 1 1/4" stainless nipple threaded into the top of the well pump, a 1 1/4" check valve (brass) and a stainless steel reducer (aka "spur") that goes into the hose line. I used my salvaged hose clamps to secure the new water line to the reducer.

Some people may read this and wonder, "What is a check valve?" It"s basically a valve that only allows fluids to move in one direction. Water can flow into your house when the pump pushes it, but it can"t drain back into the well when the pump stops. This is a vital component, because when your system gets pressurized the check valve keeps all the water in your house from dumping back down into the well. Kind of a big deal.

While you"re at the hardware store make sure to pick up a set of crimp connectors for the electrical connections. It should come with two connectors and some heat-shrink material. Strip a clean bit off of the wires coming from the house and crimp the connectors with a good pair of pliers. Slide the heat-shrink material over the connection and then heat it with a heat-gun, or a butane torch. (A lighter doesn"t get hot enough to do a good job.)

Once you get to this point, you"re ready to make sure the well pump is working. I forgot to take a picture of that part, but it goes like this: Get a BIG bucket (like a 10-20 gallon plastic tub) and use your awesome neighbor"s hose to fill it up with water. Then submerge the assembled well pump into the water, making sure water covers the impeller intakes.

Then put your cell phones to good use. Have your assistant go down into the basement and flip the breaker that will turn on the pump. You should immediately see it sucking water out of the tub at a rapid rate. If it does, the pump is ready to go back down in the hole!

Feed the pump back into the casing slowly, using the safety rope. Line up the pitless connector, using a flashlight. Slide it into place and then seat it fully by giving it a couple of downward whacks with a hammer until you feel it seated properly.

For the pressure tank to work correctly, the ambient pressure (while completely drained) has to be -2lbs from the pressure at which you want the well pump switch to kick on. I like my water pressure to be between 55 and 75 psi. That means, the ideal air pressure for the bladder in the tank was about 53 psi. I hooked up an air compressor and filled it until it reached that point.

Not performing this step will cause a variety of problems, not the least of which is "short cycling." If you have too little (or too much) air in the tank it can throw off the actual volume of water the tank will hold. That can lead to the pump constantly switching on/off... which eventually burns out the pump, or the pump switch. Not good.

What you"re looking at here is a well pump switch. They come pre-set for 30/50 and 40/60. The first number is the psi at which the switch will sense the pressure in the system is too low, and it will turn the pump on. The second number is the number at which the pressure in the system makes the switch say "Okay... that"s enough."

This well switch is brand new. I bought it the night before I replaced the well pump, hoping that it would fix my well problem. Obviously, it didn"t.

You have to be VERY careful when you do this, and I don"t recommend that anyone try it. The reason I do it, is that it lets me make my adjustments without constantly having to reset the breaker. I tweak it, and let the pressure tank fill up. I then use the valve underneath to release water pressure. As I release the pressure, I watch the gauge to see what point the switch kicked on. Once I adjusted it to the point where the pump flipped on at 55 psi, I was good to go.

Whenever you open the well cap, or replace the piping, there"s a requirement to pour some bleach down there to kill off any harmful bacteria that may want to live in the water after being touched by your filthy human digits.

Here"s what you do: Dump about 3/4 of the gallon of bleach in the well (with the water pump still on, so you can still use your hose). Then run your hose down the well to circulate the bleach. This process WILL pull bleach water into your house, so don"t plan on using the water during this process. Run the hose for about an hour to get the water from the bottom all the way back up to the top, ensuring that the chlorine mixes with ALL the water in the well. Then use the remaining 1/4 of the bottle to sanitize the well cap. Put the cap back on and go inside.

Go to sleep. It has to sit for at least 12 hours, undisturbed. No sinks. No flushies. No washies. The next day, hook up your hoses and start purging. DON"T SUCK THE WELL DRY WHILE YOU DO IT. Also, DON"T DRAIN THE BLEACH WATER INTO THE LEECH FIELD FOR YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM. Remember, there were about 100 gallons in the well, so figure out how many gallons per minute you push through the hoses and stop when you hit about 150 gallons through the system. In my case, that was about an hour and a half.

Make sure you dump the water someplace safe. Run each tap for a couple of minutes. Give the toilets a flush or two. Then test the water for chlorine content to make sure it"s safe to drink with a kit you can get from the hardware or pool supplies store. Keep running the water until the test comes back at safe levels to drink.

I"ll spare you all the details of what I went through to figure out the problem. Bottom line: When I replaced the well pump, I probably should have replaced the electrical wiring going down to the pump. Two reasons for this:

1) The wire I inherited was some kind of specialized, 12 gauge, submersible pump wire. Old school. Prone to problems. It didn"t have a ground wire, which I thought was weird at the time but figured the previous pump had been working for years without it... so... made due with what I had.

2) That old school wire can go bad on you. Even with a torque arrestor in place the pumps can spin inside of the casing, which twist the power line. If given enough time, the wire will eventually break... which is what happened to me.

The moral of the story: Replacing your electrical wiring only costs about $150 (if you go with the high-end, 12 gauge, no-casing, submersible wiring you can get at places like Lowe"s). The good thing about the newer stuff is that it doesn"t tend to break when it gets twisted up. If you don"t want to have to pull your well pump up out of the casing again, just to change the wiring three years after you did the job, maybe take care of it while you have it out of the ground the first time.

Just looking at the pictures of the slimy red gunk in your pipe and around your pump makes me think you should do some googling on "Iron Bacteria". I can"t be certain but it could be a possible cause of your issues.

When selecting the replacement pump don"t just assume that the last guy chose the perfect pump for the job. After all there could be a reason the original pump failed. I would recommend going back to basics and select a pump based on:

Pump ends are made up of a stack of impellers. Each impeller increases the pressure developed by the impellers below it (without increasing flow). So a shallow well might need a six impeller pump, while a deep one will need more. Perhaps twenty or more. The upshot of this is that there are hundreds of motor/pump end combinations to choose from, and while it"s not a particularly exact science it"s important to choose one that will operate happily in your application. You should be able to find pressure/flow charts on pump company websites and catalogues.

Sorry, got a bit carried away there. My brother and I used to own a pump company (Pumpmaster Australia) so pumps have played an important role in my life.

Iron bacteria! Thank you for the tip. We"re in a situation here where the house had two owners before we bought it in 2011. The first owners were amazing. The second owners were really nice folks, but the word around the neighborhood (and the evidence we"ve seen around the house) is that they were not "maintenance people." We"ve gradually been replacing the big-ticket items as they fail from the years of neglect. I"ve already replaced most of the plumbing between the well pump switch and the house, including the water softener and neutralizer. They were both so clogged up with gunk that the valve systems failed. (Nothing like a mouth full of salt water after a regeneration!)

Yep, works fine....Started out knowing jack shit about well pumps, about to call a pro for a emergency repair in a rural area...sent your instructable to my brother, mom, and dad...we all reviewed it, made notes, shopping list...printed/saved it to have on hand...got it done no problem....like seriously a life saverReplyUpvote

Side note for those reading this. Your probably passed this point and its a rare case but possibly note for the future. The other night we were struck by lightning. After a little over a $1000 of repairs to my electrical system ( not including labor, im an electrician) i got power restored but didnt think of testing my well pump. It was only running on one leg (120 v not the 240v its supposed to) . It was operating at a severely reduced rate and potentially energized my water. I dont think i need to get into why its bad and unsafe but if this happens make sure you mention to a qualified electrician doing the damage inspection that you have a well. There is alot of components to an electrical system and your well can be easily overlooked. Make sure you well pump gets megared ( insulation tested) before its put back into service. It also a good test for suspected pump failure aswell. Its a pass or fail test. If its within specs your safe if its not it needs to be replaced

You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman! Thanks to your amazing and detailed description, I felt confident enough to tackle this task, which I managed to do, start to finish. I’m now enjoying the amazing water pressure and volume of a brand new deep well pump! I owe you a big debt of gratitude.

In my well casing I have a metal plate with two crescent holes on opposite sides one has the power lines running through it the other is empty. The pitiless fighting is under plate how do I get plate out

I, for the first time, just completed this project too. I however had a bad tank that I replaced as well. The tank is likely what took the pump out. Anyway, between watching dozens of YouTube videos and a lot of reading, I was confident enough to tackle this. Just for those that are wondering, total cost was $950, and I got 2 different quotes of $2800 and another at $3100 to do this job! The whole project took about 12 hours total, 2 days off from work, and some help from my awesome brother! Lastly, and I should have led with this, but this instructable is seriously the absolute best one for this project out on the internet that I found. He really covers everything! Thanks for sharing. It truly helped to give me the confidence needed to tackle this. I saved $2,000! Full disclosure though, I am an extremely accomplished DIYer, I own many, many tools, and have a strong knowledge of plumbing, electrical, and carpentry. I occasionally help a good friend with his home improvement business.More CommentsPost Comment

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We also like the Dramm ColorStorm Premium Rubber Hose (50 feet). It offers many of the same features as the Continental and some that the other hose doesn’t have—like nickel-plated brass couplings—but it typically costs more, and in our tests it kinked more easily and held a memory of the kinks (once it kinked, it was prone to kink in the same spot again). We like that it comes in a variety of colors, but that’s not enough to offset the kinking issue. The Dramm was our previous top pick in this guide, but its increasing costs, coupled with the results of our long-term testing, have led us to see the Continental as the better option.

The Eley 5/8-inch Polyurethane Garden Hose was a revelation to us. It’s the best hose we’ve ever handled, and after using it for a while, we came to see all other hoses, including our other picks, as cumbersome, primitive, and dysfunctional. Compared with quality rubber hoses like the Continental and the Dramm, the Eley is lighter (much lighter), easier to loop, and more durable, and it seems immune to any kind of folding or kinking. The brass fittings at the ends are large and easy to tighten by hand or wrench, and it comes with a 10-year warranty (twice as long as the coverage that Eley offered on its discontinued rubber hose). With all of these high points, this Eley hose doesn’t come cheap—costing roughly $110 for a 50-foot length, it’s certainly an investment. But if you have trouble hefting a heavier hose or if you just want to simplify and eliminate as many of the daily micro-frustrations of a garden hose, this Eley hose is very much worth considering. It’s available in a variety of sizes, and Eley can even make custom lengths.

Manageable, lightweight, and easy to store, this coiled hose is perfect for a small patio, where you don’t need a ton of range or the absolute maximum water volume.

The HoseCoil ⅜-inch Self Coiling Garden Hose (25 feet) is neither as tough nor as long as our other picks, but for a small patio, balcony, or yard—where dragging around a big 50-footer feels like overkill—it’s a fine alternative. The HoseCoil’s main selling point is its retractable corkscrew design, which works as advertised in making the hose easy to extend, recoil, and store. Compared with our bigger picks, this ⅜-inch-diameter hose loses a quarter-inch of capacity, which translated to slightly lower water pressure in our side-by-side trials. Although the HoseCoil’s total length is 25 feet, in practice it’s really good for only about 17 feet before it starts to strain. As with our heavier-duty picks, the HoseCoil’s nozzle end has flat facets for a wrench to grab. Its two-year warranty is reassuring, too; though we’ve heard of some HoseCoils lasting longer, hitting the two-year mark is about what we’d expect. We have a test unit that has been doing fine after two years of intermittent use and daily Southern California sun exposure.

You can find a lot of inexpensive hose reels out there, but in our experience, we’ve seen too many limitations and frustrations—poor quality, iffy stability, and small wheels—for us to recommend one. For a far superior reel, one that solves all those frustrations, we recommend the Eley Portable Garden Hose Reel Cart, or if you prefer a wall-mounted version, the Eley Wall Mounted Garden Hose Reel. In the world of hose reels, Eley models have a stellar reputation, and after testing one, we fully understand why.

The build quality of the Eley reel is as good as it gets: The strong metal frame provides stability, the giant tires easily bounce over an uneven lawn, the handles are comfortable and well placed, and the reel itself pulls in a hose with minimal effort. The components are heavy-duty, and it’s an item that we expect would last a lifetime with proper care.

The Hoselink 82ft Retractable Hose Reel offers a simple way to manage a lot of hose with minimal effort. It’s 82 feet of hose on an enclosed reel that pulls out easily and retracts on its own after a slight tug, like a window blind. A guide roller at the reel moves back and forth as the hose retracts, guaranteeing that the hose spools on evenly, not all in one lump. The set comes with 6.5 feet of leader hose, and a quick-connect system on both the leader hose and the main hose makes attaching and detaching the connections easy. The quick-connect piece at the end of the main hose even has its own shutoff, further simplifying a nozzle swap; this quick-connect piece also freely rotates, so you can shift the spray nozzle around without twisting the hose. Because you can mount the Hoselink reel at any height, it eliminates any bending over or back strain associated with knee-level reels or hose spigots. We were skeptical of the Hoselink reel at first, but after having used it daily for a month, we’ve found that it’s an efficient way to keep a hose off the lawn. So far the only downside we’ve seen is that the hose is only ½ inch in diameter—not ⅝ inch like the others—so jobs like filling buckets take longer.

Operating a vessel in such a manner and at a rate of speed as will create a hazardous wash or wake when approaching or passing another vessel or when entering or leaving a harbor or marina area.

No person, except in jump buoys and like objects used normally in competitive and recreational skiing, shall operate or manipulate any vessel, tow rope, or other device by which the direction or location of water skis, aquaplane, or similar device may be affected or controlled in such a way as to cause the water skis, aquaplane, or similar device or any person thereon to collide with or strike any object or person.

Operating a vessel above plane speed when persons or equipment are positioned in a manner that would obstruct the operator"s view or impair the safe operation of the vessel. (Sailboats are exempt from this section)

The exhaust of every internal combustion engine used on any vessel shall be effectively muffled by equipment so constructed and used as to muffle the noise of the exhaust in a reasonable manner. It is unlawful for any person to operate or give permission to operate any vessel powered by an engine or outboard motor in such a manner as to exceed a noise level of 86 decibels measured at a minimum distance of 15.2 meters (50 feet) from the vessel. The use of cutouts is prohibited, except for vessels competing in a regatta or official boat race, and for such vessels while on trial runs.

No person shall operate any vessel on the waters of this state within 244 meters (800 feet) below a hydro-electric dam and/or navigational lock and dam unless each person aboard, including the operator, is wearing a U. S. Coast Guard approved personal flotation device Type I, II, III, or V. Such personal flotation device will be worn and securely fastened in accordance with manufacturer"s instructions and recommendations for such personal flotation device.

No person shall drive or be in actual physical control of a vessel or manipulate any water skis, aquaplane, or any other marine transportation device while:

It is unlawful to operate a vessel in a reckless manner upon the waters of this state. A person is guilty of reckless operation when he operates any vessel or manipulates any waterskis or any other marine transportation device upon the waters of this state in a willful or wanton disregard for the safety of persons or property at a speed or in a manner to endanger or likely to endanger life, limb, or property or injury of any person.

It shall be unlawful to operate a vessel in a careless manner upon the waters of this state. Careless operation is the endangerment of life, limb, or property through negligence, carelessness, or inattention of the operator.

An all-round white light or both a masthead light and a sternlight. These lights must be visible from a distance of at least two miles. The all-round white light (or the masthead light) must be at least one meter (3.3 ft.) higher than the sidelights.

No person shall maneuver a personal watercraft in a manner which endangers life, limb or property. (Violation results in a minimum fine of $150 plus court costs.)

All boats must carry one Type I, II, III, or V U. S. Coast Guard-approved PFD for each person onboard or being towed. If a Type V PFD is used, it must be approved for the activity at hand.