overshot is hot supplier

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In Overshot is Hot! Weaver’s magazine Editor Madelyn van der Hoogt presents the many articles and projects featuring overshot that appeared in Weaver’s and Prairie Wool Companion over a period of almost 20 years. During that time, overshot was transformed from a weave structure—used mostly for coverlets or placemat borders—into a contemporary, multicolor, multiuse pattern weave.

Innovative designers explore and apply variations and extensions of overshot drafting techniques and share their results on these pages. This book is your chance to have it all under one cover.

Our books are formatted in rich Portable Document Format (PDF)—which includes bookmarking, internal page links, and high-res images & charts so you can print pages if you wish. For best results, we recommend using Acrobat Reader (a free application from Adobe™) as a desktop application for viewing and printing. Acrobat Reader 6 or higher is required to take advantage of all the features listed above. This PDF can be transferred to your tablet with all of the same functionality when you use one of many apps (like iBooks in iOS).

And the book has some very neat tricks in it, most of which can be done on an 8-shaft loom. How to put a monk"s belt border on all four sides of a piece without losing your mind. How to float overshot motifs on a plain or twill background. The piece with motifs having different pattern weft colors in the same row by using one motif"s pattern weft as the other"s tabby was very cool. My personal favorite and the one that really excited me was the discussion of blended drafts. Basically it walks you through how to take any two drafts that have the same total thread count but different threadings, and combine them into a single new threading that will weave both. Any two 4-shaft overshot drafts can be combined on 8 shafts max, so I see a lot of potential for this. You can also combine different structures, say to put an overshot border on a textured towel.

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This post is the third in a series introducing you to common weaving structures. We’ve already looked at plain weave and twill, and this time we’re going to dive into the magic of overshot weaves—a structure that’s very fun to make and creates exciting graphic patterns.

Overshot is a term commonly used to refer to a twill-based type of weaving structure. Perhaps more correctly termed "floatwork" (more on that later), these textiles have a distinctive construction made up of both a plain weave and pattern layer. Requiring two shuttles and at least four shafts, overshot textiles are built using two passes: one weaves a tabby layer and the other weaves a pattern layer, which overshoots or floats, above.

Readers in the United States and Canada may be familiar with overshot textiles through woven coverlets made by early Scottish and English settlers. Using this relatively simple technique, a local professional weaver with a four-shaft loom could easily make a near-infinite variety of equally beautiful and complex patterns. If you’d like to learn more about overshot coverlets and some of the traditions that settlers brought with them, please see my reading list at the bottom of this article!

As it is twill-based, overshot will be very familiar to 4 shaft weavers. It’s made up of a sequence of 2-thread repeats: 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and 1-4. These sequences can be repeated any number of times to elongate and create lines, curves, and shapes. These 2-thread repeats are often referred to as blocks or threading repeats, IE: 1-2 = block 1/A, 2-3 = block 2/B.

There are three ways weft appears on the face of an overshot cloth: as a solid, half-tone, or blank. In the draft image I’ve shared here, you can see an example of each—the solid is in circled in blue, the half-tone in red, and the blank yellow. Pressing down the first treadle (shafts 1 and 2), for example, creates solid tones everywhere there are threads on shafts 1 and 2, half-tones where there is a 1 or 2 paired with 3 or 4, and nothing on the opposite block, shafts 3 and 4. Of course, there’s not really nothing—the thread is simply traveling on the back of the cloth, creating a reverse of what’s on the face.

Because overshot sequences are always made up of alternating shafts, plain weave can be woven by tying two treadles to lift or lower shafts 1-3 and 2-4. When I weave two-shuttle weaves like overshot, I generally put my tabby treadles to the right and treadle my pattern picks with my left foot and my tabby with my right. In the draft image I’ve shared above, I’ve omitted the tabby picks to make the overarching pattern clearer and easier to read. Below is a draft image that includes the tabby picks to show the structure of the fabric.

Traditional overshot coverlets used cotton or linen for warp and plain weave wefts, and wool pattern wefts—but there’s no rule saying you have to stick to that! In the two overshot patterns I’ve written for Gist, I used both Mallo and Beam as my pattern wefts.

In the Tidal Towels, a very simple overshot threading creates an undulating wave motif across the project. It’s easy and repetitive to thread, and since the overshot section is relatively short, it’s an easy way to get a feel for the technique.

The Bloom Table Squares are designed to introduce you to a slightly more complex threading—but in a short, easy-to-read motif. When I was a new weaver, one of the most challenging things was reading and keeping track of overshot threading and treadling—but I’ve tried to make it easy to practice through this narrow and quick project.

Overshot works best with a pattern weft that 2-4 times larger than your plain weave ground, but I haven’t always followed that rule, and I encourage you to sample and test your own wefts to see how they look! In the samples I wove for this article, I used 8/2 Un-Mercerized Cotton weaving yarn in Beige for my plain weave, and Duet in Rust, Mallo in Brick, and Beam in Blush for my pattern wefts.

The Bloom Table Squares are an excellent example of what weavers usually mean when they talk about traditional overshot or colonial overshot, but I prefer to use the term "floatwork" when talking about overshot. I learned this from the fantastic weaver and textile historian Deborah Livingston-Lowe of Upper Canada Weaving. Having researched the technique thoroughly for her MA thesis, Deborah found that the term "overshot" originated sometime in the 1930s and that historical records variably called these weaves "single coverlets’ or ‘shotover designs.’ Deborah settled on the term "floatwork" to speak about these textiles since it provides a more accurate description of what’s happening in the cloth, and it’s one that I’ve since adopted.

Long out of print, this fabulous book covers the Burnham’s extensive collection of early settler textiles from across Canada, including basic threading drafts and valuable information about professional weavers, tools, and history.

This book contains the collected drafts and work of Frances L. Goodrich, whose interest in coverlets was sparked when a neighbor gifted her one in the 1890s. Full of charming hand-painted drafts, this book offers a glimpse into North Carolina’s weaving traditions.

Amanda Ratajis an artist and weaver living and working in Hamilton, Ontario. She studied at the Ontario College of Art and Design University and has developed her contemporary craft practice through research-based projects, artist residencies, professional exhibitions, and lectures. Subscribe to herstudio newsletteror follow her onInstagramto learn about new weaving patterns, exhibitions, projects, and more.

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Many years ago, I finally got to try weaving. I took the Beginning to Weave workshop through the Ottawa guild. At that time, 1989, the OVWSG did not have a studio space to house what guild equipment we had acquired. (The Guild had an old second-hand 100 inch loom and 6 or 7 table looms. There may have been a floor loom too but I was distracted by the 100 inches of loom, so do not remember). All the looms lived in one of our guild members’ very big basements. On weekends, she either taught weaving workshops or hosted weavers working on the 100 inch loom. It sounded like a busy basement! I remember 4 weekends of driving to a little town just east of Ottawa. I took the table loom home each week to do homework. I still remember the sound of the mettle heddles rattling as I drove down the highway, back and forth to the classes. Then I think there were two more weekends of Intermediate weaving and Dona sent me off and I was weaving!

It all starts with yarn, wind it carefully, attach it to the back beam, wind on, thread the heddles, slay the reed, tie on to the front beam, check the tension and then start to weave. It sounds like a lot of work but it is all worth it as you start to pass the shuttle through the shed and the cloth begins to appear. Weaving was like Magic! From a pile of string to POOF, actual cloth!!!

During the workshop, I found pickup seemed strangely familiar as my brain watched my fingers happily lifting and twisting threads for the various lace and decorative weave patterns. The other thing that my brain went “ooh this is cool!” was Overshot. It is a weave structure that requires a ground and a pattern thread, (two shuttles). One is fine like the warp and the pattern thread is thicker and usually wool. I was still reacting to wool so I used cotton for both.  My original goal was to draft and weave a Viking textile for myself but I put that aside for a moment, I will get back to that later.

The first thing I wove after my instruction was a present for my Mom. she had requested fabric to make a vest. I looked through A Handweaver’s Pattern Bookby Marguerite Porter Davison and found an overshot pattern that I thought we both would like. I wove it in two shades of blue (Mom’s favourite colour), at a looser thread count than usual. (Originally the overshot weave structure was used to make coverlets, so were tightly woven and a bit stiff, while I liked the pattern I wanted the fabric to be much more drapey.) Even worse, I did not want it to be as hard-edged in the pattern as it was originally intended so I tried a slub cotton as a test and loved it.

So, for any sane weaver, it was all wrong! Wrong set, wrong fibre, wrong colour choices! It was fabulous and perfect. I kept the sample as a basket cover and at either the end of 1989 or the beginning of 1990, I gave Mom the yardage for her vest. “Oh this is too nice to cut” Mom Said, so it lived on the back of her favourite reading chair as a headrest until her most recent move (2015?) it never did get to be a vest but it has been well enjoyed.

My sample piece, which became my main demo basket cover, has been in the background of many demo photos. This year it was used as an Old example in part of the guild Exhibition. You can see the subtle distortion of the pattern when a slub yarn is used.

In the Exhibition The Inkle band, hanging beside the overshot, I wove much more recently. I used an Inkle loom and a supplemental warp thread. This means weaving with an extra separate thread that was not part of the main warp on the loom.  I used a yarn with a fuzzy caterpillar-like slub.

You may be able to see how I wove the weird slubby supplemental warp. The yarn is weighted and left hanging over the back peg of the Inkle loom. It comes over the top peg (usually labelled B in diagrams) and floats above the weaving.  In the areas where the Caterpillar (Slub) is not present I catch the yarn with the shuttle and weave it into the band. In the area the caterpillar appears I would leave the yarn above the warp and then start weaving it in again as I reached the end of the caterpillar. I hope that explanation doesn’t sound like mud and makes a bit of sense. Using a supplemental warp on an Inkle loom is not quite normal but it is a lot of fun.

I was going to tell you about my original goal in learning to weave, the mysterious Fragment #10 from a Viking excavation from around the year 1000, but  I have likely confused you with weaving enough for one day. So I will save that for another chat. (don’t forget the Inkle loom I would like to tell you a bit more about that in another post too. I promise I will get back to felting in the not-too-distant future)

Get the wholesale circulating overshot at Alibaba.com and design the patterns as you like. The custom process at Alibaba.com is easy. Just select the color and design and decide on the patterns you would like to print on the circulating overshot. Find what you want for your employees or customers to keep them safe at Alibaba.com. Wearing a proper protection uniform will not only assure the safety of people who work on the road or construction sites, it also leaves a good impression for the companies they work for.

During the process of production, the three-dimensional tailoring technique is used to create ergonomic lines, and this helps the products to meet the standard of various work scenarios and professional needs. Safety products strongly rely on respectable fabrics and materials. Low-stretch silk fabrics are used to improve the durability of the products. It is breathable and light for long-time use. Many different styles are offered for your choices such as knitted pocket style, mesh pocket style, and more. The practicality and comfort of circulating overshot are our top priorities as we understand that many workers might need to work under the sun for a long time.

Shop for overshot on Alibaba.com to find a variety for every season. Place small orders for individual use or large shipments to sell as a brand. Look for overshot that are designed for long-lasting comfort and trendy style. Each one pairs well with a wide range of other clothes and accessories to make versatile outfits for any occasion. Find different suppliers to help you get just the right price.

Most overshot have short sleeves that make them ideal for keeping cool in warmer weather. Some are designed to have a fashionable appearance, while others are made for athletic wear. Look for garments made of woven fabrics such as cotton when you need something comfortable. Fabrics such as spandex or bamboo allow for flexibility and stretchiness for a better fit.

Most manufacturers of overshot on Alibaba.com allow for a wide array of customization options. Order a shipment with just the right colors and sizes for your needs. Packaging and graphics can be made to order as well, ensuring your clothing will look just the way you want. Some suppliers offer sample shipments to try the product out before placing a full-sized order in the future.

Look for overshot on Alibaba.com to get as many as you need while keeping within your budget. A wide selection of fashionable and athletic versions are available. Whether you need them for yourself or your customers, overshot can be found with the features and styles to suit your tastes.

This comprehensive video workshop begins with an introduction to your instructors and personal remarks by Navajo weaver, Ann Walker Maloney. You"ll learn about looms, tools, yarn and equipment. They you will learn how to spin and ply edging cord (just in case you want to make your own), prepare the warp, apply the edging cord, secure the warp to the loom and make the heddles. As the weaving instruction begins, you will learn how to use the loom, create the sheds, and use the tools. The section on Planning a Rug Design will acquaint you with things you should think about before planning your own rug. This section includes specific information on weaving a design that reverses at the centre of the rug. As you begin weaving, you will learn the secret of layering in the first row, and how to weave from the top down. You will learn how to weave stripes, vertical lines (by interlocking wefts on the same row), squares or blocks, diagonals and diamonds. Once you learn these techniques you"ll be ready to plan and weave a rug design of your choice. You will learn many tips and solutions to potential problems throughout the video. And, Angie"s method of finishing a rug the Navajo way is magic! All this plus stories, traditions and rugs that will inspire.

In my last post I discussed the basics of how thermocouples operate and how to properly test them.  Building on that previous discussion we will now look at some of the most common issues, how to identify root cause and quickly correct the problem.

As I mentioned in the previous post, thermocouple issues are very commonly misdiagnosed, wasting time and money.  A little time troubleshooting can help you find the right fix the first time.

Most thermocouple issues are first identified by observing the temperature controller.  Overshooting zones, where the actual temperature of a zone is well above that of the setpoint for that zone, fall into a few categories that will help us determine the problem.

The first question to ask is if the overshoot is steady or if it overshoots and then drops back down?  This type of control issue can be the result of temperature controller tuning, however, there are a couple of cases where it is not a controller issue.

Does the temperature rise during injection and then slowly decrease back towards set-point after and then shoot back up during the next time the machine injects?  Often when this happens the temperature may not go all the way back down to setpoint before it shoots up again.  This can result in the temperature “ratcheting” up a couple of degrees every cycle.  When this occurs it is almost always the result of excessive shear heat generated during fill in the area of the thermocouple. An easy test to prove or disprove if this is the problem is to stop the cycle and watch.  Does the zone come back and stabilize when the cycle is stopped for a while.  If so, it’s a shear heating problem so don’t waste time replacing electrical components or troubleshooting your controller.  Give your hot runner supplier a call to discuss the issue and come up with potential solutions.

Is the temperature bouncing around faster than the steel temperature could realistically be changing?  Sometimes the controller will show the temperature zone jump up and down and back up again a hundred degrees in just a couple of seconds.  If the temperature movement appears to fast and sporadic to be real it’s usually caused by the TC receiving electrical noise.  To correct this, you need to make sure everything is properly grounded.

The thermocouple connector should be grounded to the hot runner or the tool.  Both the temperature controller and the injection molding machine must be properly grounded, as well.  In some rare cases even if everything is properly grounded you may still see the issue when ungrounded style thermocouples (see previous post for explanation) are used with certain types of temperature controllers.  If this is the case you will need to add a ground wire to the negative side of each thermocouple in the connector.  To reduce wiring install a jumper connecting all the negative pins of the thermocouple connector and run a wire to ground from the last pin.

Is one zone stabilized well above setpoint? This could point to a pinched thermocouple. Here the thermocouple has been damaged somewhere along its length causing the two wires of the thermocouple to make contact with each other.  This often happens when the thermocouple gets trapped between mold plates during installation or is pulled too hard around a sharp corner.  In my previous post I discussed how the thermocouple has two junctions.  The hot junction at the measuring end and the reference junction within the controller.  The pinch point makes a new junction creating a second thermocouple on the same circuit.  The reported temperature from a pinched thermocouple will be between the temperature of the hot junction and that of the pinch point.

Because the pinch point is almost always colder than that of the hot junction the temperature reported to the controller by a pinched thermocouple will be below the temperature at the hot junction.  The controller will continue to send more power to that zone until it believes the temperature has reached setpoint, however, when this occurs the actual temperature of the zone will now be far above setpoint.  On the temperature controller the overshoot does not show up on the zone with the pinched thermocouple.  The overshooting zone will often drive up the temperature of adjacent zones causing them to overshoot setpoint and this will show up on the temperature controller.

The common mistake is replacing the thermocouple of the zone that are overshooting according to the controller but in reality they are almost never the problem.  Typically the overshooting zone is fine and you must find the adjacent zone with the pinched thermocouple to fix the problem. The image below explains this concept.

Is one zone running away while another is not reaching setpoint?This could point to a crossed thermocouple.  This is a wiring issue where the thermocouple of one zone is paired with the heater of a different zone and vice-versa.  If the two zones don’t come up to setpoint at exactly the same rate the controller will turn off the zone that is low and continuously send power to the zone that is high.  This is easy to identify on the temperature controller when one zone is overshooting while another zone is not reaching setpoint. See image below.

I hope this helps the next time you are troubleshooting an electrical issue. Remember, think logically about what you are seeing and make sure your perceived root cause makes sense before you waste time and money replacing components.

You may remember that I recently returned from a visit to The Philippines. It may not surprise you that I am always on the lookout for interesting textiles, and especially handwoven fabrics. I don’t mean to do that; it just happens… Well, when I met sweet Beth at the Sunday market, I felt like I hit the jackpot! Beth and I had a common language – Handweaving! (She speaks fine English, too, of course; but you know what I mean.)

If you don’t have time to look at all the textile pictures today, at least scroll down and see my little granddaughter carrying her big umbrella on the way to the market. Umbrellas are always in season in Metropolitan Manila. For the rain in the rainy season (our visit), and for shielding your skin from the sun all the rest of the time. (You can always come back later and finish looking at the rest of the pictures. Smile.)

GAOTON Series 150 Releasing and Circulating Overshot is an external fishing tool for engage, pack off and retrieve tubular fish, especially for fishing drill collar and drill pipe. The grapple of the overshot can be designed for different sizes of fish, so one overshot can be dressed with different size of grapple components for fishing different sizes of fish.

GAOTON Series 150 Overshot consists of three outside parts: Top Sub, Bowl, and Standard Guide. The Basic Overshot may be dressed with either of two sets of internal parts, if the fish diameter is near the maximum catch of the Overshot, a Spiral Grapple, Spiral Grapple Control, and Type “A” Packer are used. If the fish diameter is considerably below maximum catch size (½” or more) a Basket Grapple and a Mill Control Packer are used.

Within those famous China oil and gas overshot manufacturers, GAOTON is a professional such supplier, producer and provider, welcome to wholesale petroleum and oilfield API overshot from our factory.