overshot jaw in puppies supplier

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An overbite might not seem like a serious condition for your dog, but severely misaligned teeth can lead to difficulty eating, gum injuries and bruising, bad breath and different types of dental problems, including tooth decay and gingivitis. Fortunately, there are ways to help fix the problem before it becomes irreversible.

An overbite is a genetic, hereditary condition where a dog"s lower jaw is significantly shorter than its upper jaw. This can also be called an overshot jaw, overjet, parrot mouth, class 2 malocclusion or mandibular brachynathism, but the result is the same – the dog"s teeth aren"t aligning properly. In time, the teeth can become improperly locked together as the dog bites, creating even more severe crookedness as the jaw cannot grow appropriately.

This problem is especially common in breeds with narrow, pointed muzzles, such as collies, shelties, dachshunds, German shepherds, Russian wolfhounds and any crossbred dogs that include these ancestries.

Dental examinations for puppies are the first step toward minimizing the discomfort and effects of an overbite. Puppies can begin to show signs of an overbite as early as 8-12 weeks old, and by the time a puppy is 10 months old, its jaw alignment will be permanently set and any overbite treatment will be much more challenging. This is a relatively narrow window to detect and correct overbites, but it is not impossible.

Small overbites often correct themselves as the puppy matures, and brushing the dog"s teeth regularly to prevent buildup can help keep the overbite from becoming more severe. If the dog is showing signs of an overbite, it is best to avoid any tug-of-war games that can put additional strain and stress on the jaw and could exacerbate the deformation.

If an overbite is more severe, dental intervention may be necessary to correct the misalignment. While this is not necessary for cosmetic reasons – a small overbite may look unsightly, but does not affect the dog and invasive corrective procedures would be more stressful than beneficial – in severe cases, a veterinarian may recommend intervention. There are spacers, braces and other orthodontic accessories that can be applied to a dog"s teeth to help correct an overbite. Because dogs" mouths grow more quickly than humans, these accessories may only be needed for a few weeks or months, though in extreme cases they may be necessary for up to two years.

If the dog is young enough, however, tooth extraction is generally preferred to correct an overbite. Puppies have baby teeth, and if those teeth are misaligned, removing them can loosen the jaw and provide space for it to grow properly and realign itself before the adult teeth come in. Proper extraction will not harm those adult teeth, but the puppy"s mouth will be tender after the procedure and because they will have fewer teeth for several weeks or months until their adult teeth have emerged, some dietary changes and softer foods may be necessary.

An overbite might be disconcerting for both you and your dog, but with proper care and treatment, it can be minimized or completely corrected and your dog"s dental health will be preserved.

Malocclusion in dogs causes an abnormal alignment of the teeth, which results in an abnormal bite. A dog whose lower jaw is protruding and with the bottom teeth sticking out when at rest is known as an underbite dog.

We will focus on “class 3 malocclusions,” also known as an underbite. This condition happens when the lower jaw teeth protrude forward relative to the upper jaw teeth.

Class 1 malocclusion, on the other hand, occurs when the upper and lower jaws are proportionally in shape in length, but the teeth don’t come together properly.

Dental is probably the number one cause of malocclusion in dogs. Dental underbites occur when one or a couple of teeth are abnormally positioned within a normal facial skeletal structure, says Dr. Santiago Peralta, assistant professor of veterinary dentistry and oral surgery at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine (CUCVM).1

Dental underbite commonly happens when a baby tooth fails to fall out and is still present when a permanent tooth erupts. This causes crowding among teeth. Thus the abnormal position and underbite look in your dog.

This cause of underbite on dogs is the easiest to correct. According to Sacramento Veterinary Dental Services, the extraction of the primary teeth (interceptive orthodontics) should be performed as soon as possible to correct the problem.2

Dr. Nadine Fiani, assistant clinical professor of dentistry and oral surgery at CUCVM, says the skeletal type of malocclusion is where the dog’s facial structure is abnormal, causing the teeth not to fit together correctly.

Skeletal underbite in dogs may be more problematic than dental.An abnormal mouth bone structure may cause the canine teeth or maxillary incisors to make abnormal contact with the gums causing severe distress and damage to your pup’s teeth and gums. This could fasten the rapid onset of periodontal disease.

“[A dog underbite] will be acquired, whether because something happened during gestation or something happened during growth and development. The condition can develop due to an infection, trauma, or any other event that may alter maxillofacial [face and jaw] growth.”

A dog underbite may also be caused by jaw fractures that don’t heal properly. Trauma to the face and jaw caused by bites, accidents, or getting hit by a car can cause your dog to develop an underbite.

Fortunately, most dog underbites do not require any treatment. If the underbite is not causing damage to a dog’s mouth (i.e., preventing chewing or swallowing), there may be no need for treatment.

2. Crown modification is often used for shortening or modifying crowns to prevent the tooth from causing trauma and using orthodontics to move the tooth into the correct position.

Any dog breed can develop an underbite. However, Class 3 malocclusions (dog underbite) are more common in brachiocephalic dog breeds, like Pugs and Bulldogs. However, an underbite can appear in any dog breed.

Most malocclusions are genetic. It’s important to have your dog’s bite evaluated for non-symmetrical jaw growth by a professional, especially if your dog is brachycephalic.

Upon examination, your vet should recommend treatment if necessary. In some cases, underbites don’t cause any irritation and are nothing to worry about. Be sure to request a dental radiograph (X-rays) for your pet. This will help identify most oral diseases in dogs.

Orthodontic treatments for dogs with underbites vary in price depending on the condition, the number of teeth involved, rounds of anesthesia, among other factors. The treatment cost of malocclusion in dogs usually fluctuates between $1,500 and $4,000, according to PetMD.

Underbite in puppies may sometimes be corrected using braces. However, extraction and filling can also be applied. Treatment options for a puppy with underbites will vary depending on the type of malocclusion your pet faces, age, health status, and other factors.

Just like adult dogs, puppies with underbites are prone to health issues. If your dog has an underbite, seek medical attention to determine if your puppy’s underbite is detrimental to his health.

An underbite is permanent and generally does not get worse with age. Dogs with underbites do not have many problems. However, the main issue you may encounter is that the teeth align and rub against each other and create a wound within the gums or hard palate.

Switching from hard to soft dog food is advised when living with a dog with an underbite. Some dogs with underbites tend to have trouble chewing their food. Nom Nom fresh dog food is a great alternative to aid when this happens and to put less stress on your dog’s teeth when eating his food.

When it comes to dog treats for dogs with underbites, consider these soft-baked dog treats by Merrick or American Journey’s soft chewy dog treat. You also want to provide a soft chewing dog toy like Chuckit! Roller Dog Toy. Its textured chenille fabric is gentle on dogs’ mouths.

Dogs whose teeth have been extracted or re-shaped must maintain a strict recovery period by only eating soft foods. Regular cleaning is needed to make sure the dog’s teeth continue to be healthy. Be sure to brush your dog’s teeth regularly.

We love using our Dental Kit from Bark Bright. This veterinarian formulated enzymatic toothpaste has three enzymes that break down the debris that cause bad breath.

This helps promote fresher breath and cleaner mouth reducing the chances of periodontal disease, which is more common in dogs with underbites and present in 80% of dogs have by age 3. No toothbrush required.

Finally, dogs with underbites often develop excessive tartar and calculus build-up. Hence, it’s also a good idea to target the build-up of plaque and tartar with a Dental Formula Water to leave your dog’s teeth and gums in tip-top condition.

A dog’s bite typically sets at ten months old. It is unlikely that an underbite will improve on its own at this point. However, there is a chance that your dog’s underbite can worsen due to poor oral hygiene and neglecting the condition.

Most dogs that show underbite symptoms as a young puppy will likely have a dog underbite for the rest of their lives. This misalignment can sometimes self-correct as your dog develops, but if your dog is genetically predisposed, it is highly unlikely for this to happen. Dog underbite can be corrected through surgery and braces in some cases.

Genetics, accidents, dental or skeletal problems can lead to underbites in dogs. In some breeds, underbites are the result of intentional breeding practices. Breeders breed underbite dogs specifically to engineer the type of jaw structure of a bulldog or a boxer.

An underbite malocclusion can be considered normal and healthy as long as the dog can chew and eat solid food comfortably and their bite is functional. Some breeds of dogs, usually flat-faced or brachycephalic, are naturally born with underbites. These breeds have been genetically bred to have a lower jaw that is slightly longer than the upper.

Bulldogs have brachycephalic skulls, which means their faces are pushed inward. As a result, the upper jaw is usually shorter than the lower — underbite. In some bulldogs, the underbite is minor, while in others, it is extreme that they find eating difficult.

As a responsible underbite dog parent, you need to be proactive in checking your dog regularly for any developments that could cause substantive health and dental issues so they can live a long and healthy life by your side.

Yes, dogs can have underbites just like people can have them, but the snaggletoothed gaze of a dog with an underbite can certainly be endearing. Treating an underbite in a dog, though, can be vastly different than treating one in a person.

An underbite is a type of malocclusion. The prefix, "mal," comes from Latin and literally means "bad," so a malocclusion is a bad occlusion. In underbites, the lower jaw juts out too far, leading to misalignment of the bottom and top teeth when the mouth is closed. Dogs with an underbite may have a snaggletoothed appearance, with one or both lower canines visibly sticking out of their mouth. Underbites are also sometimes termed Type 3 Malocclusion in dogs because, unfortunately, it"s not the only type of malocclusion dogs can have. They can also have overbites (aka Type 2 Malocclusion) and cross-bites, just like people.

Underbites are almost always congenital in nature. This means that it"s present from birth. They are most commonly seen in brachycephalic breeds, such as Boxers, Boston terriers, Brussels Griffons, Bulldogs, Lhasa Apso, Shih Tzu, Pugs, etc. In fact, underbites are so commonly seen in these breeds that they are considered to be their normal dentition In rare instances, facial trauma can also cause an underbite.

Regardless of whyyour dog has an underbite, it"s important to understand the repercussions a dog with an underbite may face. An underbite (or any dental malocclusion) can make a dog more prone to dental disease. If the upper teeth and lower teeth don"t line up like they"re supposed to, that can make some teeth more prone to tartar build up. It can also lead to more tooth-on-tooth wear and can also damage or irritate the gums, lips, or hard palate.

In people, an underbite is fixed by orthodontics and braces. Believe it or not, they make braces for dogs, too! However, they are used primarily under the supervision of a board certified veterinary dentist, not a general practitioner. Additionally, they aren"t used for cosmetic purposes as in people. Braces are used in dogs only when there is a medical problem warranting their use. Application of the braces and subsequent adjustment of the brackets will require general anesthesia and dental radiography. A more common approach is to remove teeth that are badly affected by the malocclusion or are causing pain due to digging into the gums or lips.

For most dogs with underbites, management of problems created by the malocclusion is the treatment of choice. Dogs that have underbites may require more at-home, preventative dental care. Chews and oral rinses certainly don"t hurt, but they are also not nearly as effective as brushing the teeth. If you have a dog with an underbite, training them to accept daily tooth brushing can be helpful. It"s important that you use veterinary specific toothpaste as human toothpaste usually contains fluoride, which can be harmful if swallowed. Additionally, most dogs don"t prefer the minty flavors of human toothpaste. Veterinary toothpaste comes in more dog-friendly flavors such as poultry and beef.

Eventually, though, even daily brushing may not be enough to stave off dental disease. If your dog has gingivitis, heavy tartar, and/or bad breath, your dog may need a dental cleaning. This is similar to when humans routine dental cleanings with ultrasonic scaling, followed by polishing the enamel smooth. The major difference being that dogs need to be put under anesthesia for safe, effective dental cleanings and in order to safely take dental radiographs.

If your dog has an infected or abscessed tooth, the most common treatment is to simply take out the tooth in question. Most dogs can do just fine without the infected tooth. However, those same veterinary dentists that can place braces when needed can also perform root canals to save infected and/or fractured teeth. The cost of this may be prohibitive in some cases, but it is a good option to look into to help maintain a healthy mouth.

Unfortunately, because the most common reason for an underbite to happen is congenital, it can be difficult to prevent one if you are looking for a breed of dog that is prone to them. As mentioned, this abnormality is considered to part of the breed standard for these snub nosed breeds because it"s a result of their signature "pushed-in" faces. A pug or bulldog isn"t a pug or bulldog without a smushed-looking face, and breeding its snout to be so short predisposes it to problems.

Underbites in dogs can put them at risk for future dental disease and may cause chronic pain or difficulty chewing. If your dog has an underbite and you"re worried about the health of its teeth, speak to your veterinarian.

Does your dog have a toothy grin that pops out when they are relaxed? This could be an "underbite" which is fairly common among dogs. However, depending on the severity of the "grin" could have underlying health problems.

The way a dog"s teeth should line up together is called a "scissor bite".A dog who"s teeth don"t quite fit straightly together, and the bottom jaw"s teeth protrude further than the upper jaw has what is called an underbite, also known as Canine Malocclusion.

This is a feature most often seen in short muzzled dogs like pugs, terriers, cavaliers, shih-tzu, boxers and bulldogs, however any mix breed dog with a parent from a breed that is known to develop an underbite has a greater likelihood of inheriting an underbite.

In humans it is easy to see if we have developed an underbite. In dogs however it is a little harder to see from what is "normal" as a dogs jaw is different to our own. The way you can tell if your dog has an underbite is when they are most at rest and relaxed as their bottom teeth will poke out from under their lips.

If your dog has no issues with chewing solid foods, and they can move their jaw comfortably and bite well enough, then there is nothing to worry about. As noted earlier this is a fairly common trait in dog breeds with short muzzles and "flat faces".

Skeletal Malocclusion - this is seen in pedigrees usually in a short muzzled breed (but can also occur in long snouted breeds like sight hounds), where the lower jaw is longer than the upper jaw due to a skull abnormality resulting in the two jaws not lining up properly.

If a dog develops Dental Malocclusion there could be a few problems for the pup. Such as tooth-to-tooth-contact or tooth-to-gum-contact where there shouldn"t be. This is due to bad teeth alignment and can affect a dog"s normal mouth functions such as eating, chewing, cleaning and biting as this unwanted contact can cause a dog much distress.

This unusual teeth placement can cause unseen issues such as cuts to the dog"s lips, cheek tissues and may cause mouth ulcers, infections and tooth decay. A vet should notice any problems in a check up. They will then determine if further action is required.

The vast majority of skeletal malocclusion requires no treatment. This is also the same for dental malocclusion, it is only if it causes a sever risk to the dog - such as bad teeth formation or an underlying dental issues that cause the dog pain that further action should be taken. Your vet will be able to advise you if this is the case when your dog has a check up.

It has also been noted that some puppies that developed an underbite in their early years "grow" out of it as their face and jaw begin to take form as they develop into dogs. Although it varies from breed to breed, a dog"s facial alinement is often determined around 10 months of age.

I have been “in dogs” long enough to see a lot of changes. The rise of “Doggy Dentistry” is relatively new, and I’m very discouraged by it. Our dogs have been dealing with less then perfect mouths for ages. Starting to remodel and mess around with nature is NOT necessary. This is a money driven trend, and if people can be convinced their dog needs what amounts to cosmetic surgery, all the better for the bottom line of the dentist. We will NOT condone the mutilation of our pups to line the pockets of this new scam. IF you buy a pup from us for showing in the conformation ring and then for breeding, and you state that as your primary goal, we will of course replace the pup or refund your purchase price.

BUT, if you state you want your dog for companionship, for work, for all that dogs can do for and with us, we will NOT refund or replace for an overbite, undershot, wry or missing teeth. It doesn’t make any sense, and we will not be part of it. We urge you to stand strong, since nobody really enjoys going to the dentist, much less have procedures done that are completely unnecessary.

Enzo is the Hawthorne Hills Veterinary Hospital Pet of the Month for May. Everyone knows that puppies need vaccines to keep them healthy and protected from diseases. However, it can be easy to underestimate the benefits of thorough and regular examinations when puppies are growing into adulthood. Every breed has special characteristics that make them unique and add to their appeal and sometimes there are physical changes that need to be addressed quickly. For this reason our veterinarians believe in examinations with every vaccine, especially during a puppy’s formative months.

Enzo is a short-haired Havanese and he was born with his lower jaw shorter than the upper jaw. This is called an Overbite, also referred to as an Overshot Jaw, a Parrot Mouth or Mandibular Brachygnathism. This malocclusion is a genetic change and can be seen in a number of breeds, oftentimes collie related breeds and dachshunds. Occasionally this change happens because of differences in the growth of the upper and lower jaws, and in many cases it doesn’t cause any significant problems other than cosmetically.

Dr. Robin Riedinger evaluated Enzo at his first visit when he was just 11 weeks of age and while the lower jaw was too short, there was no evidence of damage and no indication that this was causing a problem for Enzo. When there is abnormal occlusion of the teeth, it is important to monitor closely for trouble caused by the teeth being aligned improperly. Malocclusions can lead to gum injuries, puncturing of the hard palate, abnormal positioning of adjacent teeth, abnormal wear and bruising of the teeth, permanent damage and subsequent death of one or more teeth, and in the long run, premature loss of teeth. Some malocclusions can be severe enough to interfere with normal eating and drinking.

Within three weeks, when Enzo was only 3.5 months old, it was clear that our doctors would need to intervene. The left and right sides of Enzo’s upper jaw (maxilla) were growing at different rates because the lower canine teeth were being trapped by the upper canine teeth. This is called Dental Interlock. Because the teeth are ‘locked’ in place, the lower jaw cannot grow symmetrically and this creates a number of other problems. Early intervention is critical.

The solution for Dental Interlock is to extract the teeth from the shorter jaw; in this case, the lower ‘baby’ canines and thereby allow the lower jaw (mandible) to grow in the best way possible. This procedure is most effective when the Dental Interlock is discovered early and the extractions are performed quickly. In some cases, this can be as early as ten weeks of age. Dr. Riedinger consulted with a local veterinary dental specialist to confirm the treatment plan and to get advice on extracting the deciduous teeth without damaging the developing adult canines. Dental radiographs are essential to proper extraction technique and also to ensure that there are no other abnormalities below the gumline.

You can see how long the roots of the deciduous ‘baby’ teeth are. During normal growth, the body will begin to resorb the roots, making them loose, and allow them to fall out as the adult tooth begins to emerge. When we need to remove the deciduous teeth before they are loose, it can be quite tricky to remove the tooth carefully without breaking it and without injuring the adjacent teeth.

Once extracted, each deciduous canine tooth was about 2 centimeters long; the roots were about 1.5 centimeters. Many people are surprised to learn that the root of a dog’s tooth is so large – 2/3 to 3/4 of the tooth is below the gumline. This is one reason why it is so important to use radiographs to evaluate teeth on a regular basis, not just in a growing puppy. Adult teeth can, and frequently do, have problems that are only visible with a radiograph.

Enzo came through his procedure extremely well. He was given pain medications for comfort and had to eat canned foods and avoid chewing on his toys for the next two weeks to ensure that the gum tissue healed properly. As he continues to grow we will be monitoring how his jaw develops and Dr. Riedinger will also be watching the alignment of his adult canine teeth when they start to emerge around six months of age. Hopefully this early intervention will minimize problems for Enzo in the future.

If your puppy has an underbite, you are undoubtedly wondering if this is something that can be corrected? In this guide, We’ll answer just that, and cover many of the important FAQs owners always ask.

The short answer is yes, but only under certain circumstances. Vets will typically only offer solutions if it causes the puppy pain or makes eating, drinking or breathing difficult. Solutions include braces, surgery or extraction and filling.

An underbite in puppies, otherwise known as canine malocclusion is when the lower jaw (mandible jaw) protrudes further out than the upper jaw (maxilla jaw).

In the more unfortunate cases, If the underbite is bad it could lead to significant eating disorders, misaligned teeth that could damage the soft tissue around the mouth and gums, and finally and likely the worst outcome could be a condition called an oronasal fistula.

This condition is where a hole forms between the mouth and nose, this causes severe pain and makes your puppy very vulnerable to nasal disease and infections.

When there are no issues:In some circumstances, having an underbite will not be an issue, and if it does not disrupt the normal life of your puppy then there may be no need to do anything about it. Of course, this decision needs to be made by a professional upon further examination.

Generally, if your puppy doesn’t have difficulty eating, swallowing, drinking and isn’t in pain, it’s likely to be less serious. But you should let a veterinarian make that decision.

Underbites could also happen during gestation (the time during pregnancy when the fetus develops from contraception to birth). In fact, any kind of trauma or infection could also be a deciding factor during the development and growth period.

This type of underbite is caused when the facial bone structure of the puppy’s face is abnormal. This results in the lower jaw and upper jaw not lining up together properly.

This type of underbite is caused by there being either too many teeth or teeth in the wrong place, forcing there to be an underbite. With this underbite, the puppy’s facial structure is still correct.

A topic surrounded by much controversy is intentional breeding. Some breeders purposefully breed some dogs to have an underbite simply for their appearance.

Skeletal malocclusion is usually very visible due to there being a structural abnormality. Their lower jaw often protrudes heavily and can be easily identified as an underbite.

Dental Malocclusion can be more slight as it’s usually only the teeth causing the underbite. You may need a veterinarian to confirm an underbite in this situation.

These are the original breeds with underbites, but the list doesn’t end there. As we mentioned earlier, many breeders experiment with crossbreeding and use a wide variety of other breeds with the intent of passing down this condition. Something which a lot of people consider wrong.

It’s typical for veterinarians to only offer treatment for an underbite if it is causing pain, negatively affecting your puppy’s daily life, or it poses future health issues. In these cases, they will offer you various treatments, which I will discuss below.

Thankfully, puppies are still growing, and their facial structure is not yet completely set. This allows for more treatment options compared to a fully mature dog.

If your veterinarian decides that braces are the way to go, your puppy will need preliminary health checks to ensure they are healthy enough to undergo this operation, after some X-rays, your puppy will have their braces fitted. Most cases require general anesthesia.

If your puppy has an underbite, the first and most important thing to do is ensure they are in no discomfort. The reason why your puppy has an underbite should be thought about after you have ensured they aren’t in pain.

Look to see if your puppy is struggling to eat, swallow or drink. If they are, you should immediately schedule an appointment with a veterinarian for further checks.

If you aren’t sure, it’s always best to visit your local veterinarian anyway, just to be safe. Even in the event that your puppy is given the all-clear, it’s still good to look for signs of discomfort.

Tough chew toys are one thing you may want to get rid of. Despite how useful they can be, they often make underbites worse, especially in puppies when their jaw and mouth are not fully developed. In this case, it would be better to find a soft, more forgiving toy.

It also depends on what type of underbite it is, if it is skeletal malocclusion, it will likely stay the same or worsen. This is a complete abnormality in the structure of their face. It’s very unlikely that these underbites change, especially for the better.

Typically, a puppy’s teeth are permanently set where they are around the 10-month mark. If your puppy has an underbite due to badly positioned teeth, it’s likely it won’t self-correct after the 10-month point. In some cases, it can self-correct in the very early stages.

We believe that all dogs deserve to be loved and cared for equally. But you have to be aware of the above information. They may be completely fine and the underbite doesn’t cause any negative health issues. But, there’s also the chance that it does.

Many puppies have health checks prior to being sold and you should always obtain this before making a final decision. It helps to have a professional veterinarian give you advice first.

If the underbite causes any future health issues, the corrective treatments of the underbite are considerably expensive, and this isn’t counting any subsequent treatment for other health issues caused by the underbite…

Like we mentioned above, all dogs deserved to be loved and cared for equally. Whether you already have a puppy with an underbite or you’re looking to buy one. All you need to do is ensure they are healthy and in no discomfort.

The moment you think or suspect they are in discomfort or having trouble eating, swallowing, drinking or breathing. It’s time to visit the veterinarian.

My two favorite brushes for a beautiful coat are a simple Undercoat Rake and a Slicker Brush. These brushes when used together will de-shed and maintain your husky’s coat better than anything else.

Brain Training For Dogs has become increasingly popular with Siberian Huskies in the last few years. It’s now recognized as perhaps the best way to train a husky in the most stress-free, positive way.

If you would like to support My Happy Husky directly and have an easy to read and entertaining guide for training your husky puppy, check out my book The Husky Puppy Handbook on Amazon. All purchases are greatly appreciated.

Disclaimer The advice given in this article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice in any context. Before making any decisions that may affect the health and/or safety of your dog, you should always consult a trained veterinarian in your local area. For the FULL disclaimer Visit Here

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Since the teeth overlap, the dog has trouble chewing food. In addition, the lower jaw teeth may hit the roof repeatedly and cause injuries in the process.

If you are looking to buy or adopt a Sheltie, always keep in mind that he is susceptible to overbites. This is because he is created with a long, slender muzzle like all the breeds on this list.

No doubt, this breed can dig and burrow like his life depends on it. He will burrow under covers, dig holes in the yard, create trenches in the fence, you name it.

Sable M. is a canine chef, professional pet blogger, and proud owner of two male dogs. I have been an animal lover all my life, with dogs holding a special place in my heart. Initially, I created this blog to share recipes, tips, and any relevant information on healthy homemade dog treats. But because of my unrelenting passion to make a difference in the world of dogs, I have expanded the blog’s scope to include the best information and recommendations about everything dog lovers need to know about their canine friends’ health and wellbeing. My mission now is to find the most helpful content on anything related to dogs and share it with fellow hardworking hound lovers. While everything I share is in line with the latest evidence-based veterinarian health guidelines, nothing should be construed as veterinary advice. Please contact your vet in all matters regarding your Fido’s health.

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The following is an article prepared for Outlaw Cane Corsos by Dr. Paolo Breber (the world’s leading expert on the Cane Corso and person directly responsible for the recovery of this breed in Italy). With the gracious help of Dr. Breber we will try to provide the most accurate information about this breed here in the United States. Please feel free to share this site with other Cane Corso enthusiasts. Help keep this very old traditional breed alive and true.

Judged by its conformation according to the classification of Pierre Mégnin (1889) the Cane Corso is a typical “molossian” (this is the same as saying “mastiff”) whereas, when considered functionally, it is a “catch dog”. The focal feature of a catch dog is the holding bite with which it fastens onto its adversary, tires and overcomes it. The holding bite is different from the ordinary bite in that the grip becomes locked and the animal shuts its mind off, becoming insensible to anything that might be happening to it. The paradigm of this behavioural trait is to be found in an episode from the saga of Alexander the Great. Having crossed the Hydaspes River (the present Jehlam River in Punjab) and beaten King Porus, the conqueror was then met and entertained by king Sophites. In the course of ensuing festivities, the king, wanting to impress Alexander with the valour of his catch dogs, unleashed four onto a lion which was duly attacked and held. One of the king’s archers then entered the pit and cut a leg off one of the dogs. But the dog did not let go. The other legs were also severed but the dog died with its jaws still locked. Today, after more than two thousand years and many turns of history, this remains the same prized behavioural trait when the work of a catch dog is described. An example for all is the American Pit Bull Terrier, a dog which still has the good fortune of being bred for work. Those that use this breed say you must look for the “holding dog”; the one that will hang on to its adversary (boar, razorback, steer) even at the cost of its life. How did this behavioural trait arise? One explanation could be that it is the same instinct that makes a puppy hang on for dear life to its mother’s dug. The number of puppies in a litter is often in excess of the available dugs and it is a grim battle for survival that is fought for the source of nourishment because the losers are doomed to weaken and die. Once a puppy has fastened onto a dug it is in a state of bliss and nothing will detach it before it is gorged, and this is much the same mental state of a Cane Corso with a hold. At this point it is significant to recall how the old-timers of the Cane Corso proceed to choose those puppies to keep and those to cull soon after birth. The man first waits for the litter to begin suckling in earnest and then calls the bitch to him. As the bitch gets up and walks a few steps, he notices which of the puppies stays hanging on the dugs. These will be the best.

If a powerful holding bite is the very essence of the Cane Corso then it follows then that its jaws should be mechanically perfect. The upper and lower jaws should be of the same length and the teeth should be completely developed and interlock without fault. This is the condition dictated by nature and is therefore the most functional.

In molossian dogs undershot jaws appear frequently but it is an error to interpret this condition as a functional adaptation, as is often done, because it is simply a deformity. It seems that undershot jaws appeared in some molossian breeds when they were being transformed from working dogs to fancy dogs. As a pet the catch dog is not used any longer in its original capacity but it is still expected to visually inspire the part. Thus a big head, a stubby muzzle and a jutting jaw were developed in order to obtain that truculent expression assumed to be that of a fighting dog by the pet-dog owner. In the bear- and bull-baiting days the dog the English used was like the American Pit Bull Terrier but when the blood sport was banned in 1835 the dog developed into the English Bull Dog of today: from a highly functional but relatively nondescript animal to a highly expressive one but functionally very handicapped. There is some evidence pointing to the British as responsible for spreading the undershot mandible around the world. The great reputation of British dogs has caused the defect to uncritically contaminate the molossian-type dogs of other countries.

The undershot condition is not caused by the lengthening of the lower jaw but by the shortening of the upper jaw and nose. It determines a loss of efficiency in the use of teeth not only in the holding bite but also in mastication and in the care of the epidermis. Furthermore, a short nose causes problems in breathing and ventilation as witnessed in the forever open mouth of the English Bulldog, Boxer, Pug, Pekinese, and of other prognathous breeds. The canine brain requires a lower temperature than the rest of the body and it is cooled by air inhaled into the nasal cavity. Thus dogs with short noses have little resistance to protracted physical exercise because they quickly become overheated.

The incisor teeth are used by the dog for nipping, getting at fleas and other problems of the skin, but if the bite is “even” they wear down quickly and lose their efficiency. An “inverted scissors bite” is a more serious handicap because it often leads to the undershot condition where all the upper and lower rows of teeth do not meet properly. This impairs mastication and sometimes keeps the dog from closing its mouth properly, making it drool all the time. In my experience, a true Cane Corso should never present this condition. Where the Cane Corso is bred for work the undershot jaw stays away. On the other hand, the inverted scissors bite, the initial stage of the undershot condition, does in fact crop up here and there in the breed. This condition may be tolerated if the rest of the teeth lock correctly but it should not be encouraged and preferably weeded out

The goals and purposes of this breed standard include: to furnish guidelines for breeders who wish to maintain the quality of their breed and to improve it; to advance this breed to a state of similarity throughout the world; and to act as a guide for judges.

Any departure from the following should be considered a fault, and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dog’s ability to perform its traditional work.

The origins of the Louisiana Catahoula Leopard Dog are unknown but it is believed to be descended from crosses between Native American dogs, Red Wolves (some of whom lived as pariahs on the outskirts of Indian villages), and the dogs brought to the New World by Spanish conquistadors, probably mastiff-types and sighthounds. Some experts believe Beaucerons were added to the mix when the area was settled by the French. White settlers in Louisiana found the Native Americans using these unusual-looking dogs to hunt a variety of wild game, including deer, bobcat, wild hog, and bear. The new arrivals soon came to appreciate this versatile breed that was equally capable of scenting, trailing and treeing game, or baying and herding feral hogs and cattle.

There are many stories regarding the origin of the breed’s exotic name: Catahoula. The most likely is that it is a corruption of the Indian word that meant “Choctaw,” the name of a local tribe.

The only thing certain is that the Louisiana Catahoula Leopard Dog is an all-American, multi-purpose working dog. On July 9, 1979, the governor of Louisiana signed a bill making this breed the official State Dog of Louisiana.

The Louisiana Catahoula Leopard Dog is a medium to medium-large, short-coated dog, with a broad head, small-to-medium drop ears, and an undocked tail set on as a natural extension of the topline. The Catahoula is well muscled and powerful, but not bulky, giving the impression of agility and endurance. The Catahoula is a moderate breed and should not resemble either a sighthound or a bulldog in appearance. The body is just slightly longer than tall and the distance from the elbow to the ground should equal 50-60 percent of the dog’s height from the withers to the ground. Because of the breed’s name, many people assume that all Catahoulas have the so-called “leopard” markings and blue eyes. In fact, the breed is noted for its many and unusual coat colors and patterns, as well as varied eye color. The Catahoula should be evaluated as a multi-purpose working dog, and exaggerations or faults should be penalized in proportion to how much they interfere with the dog’s ability to work.

Catahoula temperament ranges from serious and business-like when working to clownish at home, with varying levels of energy. It is not uncommon for Catahoulas to be aloof with strangers, which often results in a lack of animation when showing and may cause some to draw away from judges when being examined. Catahoulas should never be excessively aggressive or shy. They can be independent, protective and territorial so they require firm guidance and a clear understanding of their place in the family unit. Catahoulas are affectionate, gentle and loyal family companions.

The head is powerfully built without appearing exaggerated. Viewed from the side, the length of skull and muzzle are approximately equal in length, and joined by a well-defined stop of moderate length. The planes of the topskull and the bridge of the muzzle are roughly parallel to one another. There may be a slight median furrow between the eyes and running back to the occipital bone. Gender differences should be apparent in the characteristics of the head.

The muzzle is strong and deep. Viewed from above, the muzzle is moderately wide and tapering toward the nose. Lips may be tight or slightly pendulous with pigment of any color or combination of colors.

Eyes are set moderately well apart, medium in size, somewhat rounded in appearance, and are set well into the skull. Eyes may be any color or combination of colors without preference. Eye rims are tight and may be any color or combination of colors.

Ears are drop, short to medium in length, moderate in size, and proportionally wide at the base, gradually tapering to the slightly rounded tip. They should fold over and be generally triangular in shape. The top of the ear fold is level or just slightly below the top line of the skull. When the dog is at attention, the inner edge of the ear lies close to the cheek. Laid-back ears are acceptable but not preferred.

The neck is muscular and of good length, without being overdone. The circumference of the neck widens from the nape to where the neck blends smoothly into the shoulders.

The shoulders are strong and smoothly muscled. The shoulder blades are long, wide, flat and well laid back. The upper arm is roughly equal in length to the shoulder blade and joins it at an angle sufficient to ensure that the foot falls under the withers. The elbows are close to the body and do not turn out.

The forelegs are straight, and of medium bone, indicating strength without excessive thickness. Pasterns are strong, short, and slightly sloping. The length of the forelegs should roughly equal 50-60% of the dog’s height at the withers. A dog with legs shorter than the ideal is to be more heavily penalized than a dog with longer legs.

A properly proportioned Louisiana Catahoula Leopard Dog is slightly longer than tall. The topline inclines very slightly downward from well-developed withers to a level back. The back is broad and well muscled with a short, strong, slightly arched loin. A slightly longer loin is acceptable in females. The ribs extend well back and are well sprung out from the spine. The chest is deep, reaching at least to the elbows, and moderately broad. When viewed from the side, the forechest extends in a shallow oval shape in front of the forelegs. Tuck-up is apparent, but not exaggerated. Croup is medium to long and slightly sloping. A slightly elevated rear resulting from slightly straighter rear angulation should not be penalized too severely.

The stifles are well bent, and the hocks are well let down. When the dog is standing, the short, strong rear pasterns are perpendicular to the ground and, viewed from the rear, parallel to one another.

Good feet are essential for a working dog. Feet are well knit and oval in shape. Toes are long, webbed and well arched. Pads are thick and hard. Nails are strong. Dewclaws may be removed.

The tail is a natural extension of the topline. It is thicker at the base, and tapers to the tip. Natural bob tails are permitted, but not preferred. The natural bob tail, regardless of length, will taper in width from base to tip. A full length tail may be carried upright with the tip curving forward when the dog is moving or alert. When the dog is relaxed, the tail hangs naturally, reaching to the hock joint. Catahoulas should be allowed to carry their tails naturally when being shown. Exhibitors should not hold tails upright.

The Catahoula has a single coat, short to medium in length that lies flat and close to the body. Texture ranges from smooth to coarse, without preference.

Catahoulas come in an endless variety of coat colors and patterns. All color combinations and patterns can have color points or trim, which may be located on the chest, cheeks, above the eyes, on the legs, underbody or under the tail. The Leopard pattern has a base color, with contrasting spots of one or more other colors. Solids have a single coat color. Brindles may have a light or dark base coat color with contrasting stripes. The Patchwork pattern may or may not have one predominant solid color with one or more different size patches of different colors and shades placed randomly on the body. In dogs of equal quality, rich, deep colors are preferable to the lighter colors. However, in evaluating the Catahoula as a true, multi-purpose working dog, coat color is not a primary consideration. No coat color or pattern is preferred.

Ideal height at maturity for males is 24 inches, and for females, 22 inches, with a variation of two inches either way acceptable. Weight may range from 50 to 95 pounds, in proportion to the dog’s height. The Louisiana Catahoula Leopard Dog must be both powerful and agile so actual weight and height are less important than the correct proportion of weight to height. Catahoulas should always be presented in hard, working condition. Any deviation from the ideal must be judged by the extent of the deviation, and the effect it has on the dog’s ability to work.

When trotting, the gait is smooth, fluid and effortless, showing good but not exaggerated reach in front and powerful drive behind. The topline remains level with only a slight flexing to indicate suppleness. Viewed from any position, legs turn neither in nor out, nor do feet cross or interfere with each other. As speed increases, feet tend to converge toward center line of balance. Poor movement should be penalized to the degree to which it reduces the Catahoula’s ability to perform the tasks it was bred to do.

It is very important for you to inspect a puppy for signs of illness, no matter what the seller tells you. Even with a written health guarantee.Once you fall in love with your new puppy, if he or she is sick or even passes away, that health guarantee is not going to make you feel much better.

Important – if 1 puppy in a litter seems to be ill, we advise to not purchase any puppy from that litter. Other pups may just not be showing symptoms yet. Therefore, use this guideline to look at all of the puppies in the litter…before you go on to the next step that brings you closer to choosing a puppy.

On an 8-week Maltipoo puppy, the hair will still be considered a “puppy coat.” Compared to the adult Maltipoos that you see, it will be shorter and finer, so do not worry if the coat is not as full as the puppies’ parents. This said, of course bald patches or hair loss is a huge issue with a pup.

Clear discharge may be allergies. Many dog do have allergies, this is up to you to decide if you want to obtain a pup with signs of allergies, which can be very frustrating (and sometimes expensive) to deal with.This said, allergies can

be specific to the pup"s environment or to the food that he is eating.Do keep in mind that even if you choose a healthy puppy, once he or she is home with you, allergies may develop to your laundry detergent, the dog shampoo

Open each puppy’s mouth and check his teeth. The gums should be a healthy pink and the teeth should be white. There should be no bad breath issues. The most that you should smell is the lingering scent of puppy food.

This is because both the Maltese and the Poodle have a scissors bite. An undershot or overshot bite, when noticeable in a young pup, can turn into a severe problem as he matures.

If you see worms moving around this area, inform the breeder. This type of worm requires three days of continuous worming to remove them. They are associated with fleas and will hatch out in another two weeks. Do not obtain a puppy with worms, as this is a bad sign – the breeder should have had the puppies de-wormed.

Stools should be firm and not runny. Take a close look to see if you spot any worms. Runny stools or any worms is a big warning sign – do not get the puppy.

This complete guide will review the breed’s history, personality, lifestyle requirements, and more. Learn why Rat Terriers were used for farm work, and how they got promoted from being farm dogs to loving companions in the blink of an eye.

The Rat Terrier is popularly known as a dog of many talents. However, the Rat Terrier is also a dog of many breeds. Perfected in America during the 19th century, the Rat Terrier is a blend of several ancestors – the now-extinct Old English White Terrier, the Smooth Fox Terrier, the Whippet, the Manchester Terrier, pinches of Italian Greyhounds, Bull Terriers, Chihuahuas, and Beagles.

The original Rat Terrier’s history starts in England, where the breed was developed to exterminate rodents and hunt small game. According to written records, a Rat Terrier named Billy from Suffolk, England, freed his owner’s barn from rodents by killing 2501 rats in just 7 hours.

Because of their outstanding exterminating skills, they were later on for pit fighting, where they were pitted against several rats. When British immigrants started colonizing America, they brought their Rat Terriers with them.

They also brought Beagles, Chihuahuas, Italian Greyhounds, and Bull Terriers. These dogs began mixing with the Rat Terrier and ultimately gave birth to the Rat Terrier we now know, love and respect.

The Rat Terrier is a compact and sturdy, small to medium-sized dog with an overall look that radiates confidence, elegance, and fitness. The head is proportional to the body. The adorable dog has oval, small, and wide-set eyes, and triangular ears. Rat Terriers puppies are born with erect ears which usually drop down by the time the puppy opens its eyes. Sometimes the ears get erected later on and sometimes they stay dropped.

Standard Rat Terrier males and females are 13-18 inches tall (33.4-45.7 centimeters) and weigh about 10-25 pounds (4.5-11.3 kilograms). Miniature Rat Terriers are about 10-13 inches (25-33.4 centimeters) tall at the withers.

The Rat Terrier has a single-layered coat that can be short, smooth, or dense.  The coat can come in a plethora of colors and color combinations, including white, white, and black or tan, black with tan or rust.

It takes minimal effort to maintain the Rat Terrier’s coat and keep it healthy. This dog sheds minimally throughout the year and more intensely twice per year during shedding seasons.

Usually, the Rat Terrier needs weekly brushing and monthly bathing. During the shedding season, the brushing frequency can be increased to a few times a week. To speed up the process, it is advisable to use a rubber curry brush or a shedding tool

The ears are prone to wax buildup and require weekly checking and cleaning. As in all small dogs, tartar accumulation can be an issue unless the teeth are brushed more than three times per week. Finally, monthlynail trimmings are necessary to keep the nails short and prevent cracking and splinting.

The Rat Terrier is true to its Terrier ancestry – it is exceptionally smart and fun-loving, yet stubborn and independent. Unaware of its diminutive size, this tenacious, fearless, and alert dog makes an extremelygood watchdog.

The Rat Terrier is akid-friendly dog which makes it the perfect family companion, and extremely adaptable which makes it suitable for both house and apartment living. It is also suitable for dog owners of all ages – single professionals from families to senior citizens.

Rat Terriers are extremely intelligent, but they are also Terriers, which means they are stubborn and can make the training process a real challenge. Most Rat Terriers respond totraining efforts if the training sessions are kept short, fun, and mentally stimulating. They prefer positive reinforcement training techniques and frequent bribes in the form oftasty treats.

The most basic and universal training all Rat Terriers must receive is obedience training. This is mostly due to their escaping tendencies, strong prey drive, and the ability to run really fast.

Socialization is also mandatory. It should be extensive and starting from an early age. Bred to exterminate rodents, Rat Terriers have an extremely potent prey drive, and if the opportunity presents itself, they will disregard all commands and initiate a fair chase.

Bred to be a hard-working dog, and having the Terrier genes deep-wired in its genetic code, the Rat Terriers need about 30 to 60 minutes of vigorous physical activity per day.

Ideally, Rat Terriers should be left to run but always in a fenced area. Considering their escape artist skills and the strong prey drive, letting themoff-leash in an unfenced area can be hazardous. Alternatively, they enjoy swimming. If neither option is available, they need several vigorous walks in the park or around the block.

With go-all-day stamina and highly biddable, Rat Terrier can be exercised for dock diving, agility, fly-ball, and doing parlor tricks. These canine sports serve as good energy outlets and offer the Rat Terrier and the owner a bonding opportunity.

The average lifespan of the Rat Terrier varies between 12 and 18 years. Despite its relatively long lifespan, the Rat Terrier is predisposed to several breed-specific conditions. The most frequently reported major issues include orthopedic conditions like hip dysplasia, patellar luxation, and Legg-Calve-Perthes, heart problems, and eye conditions.

Rat Terriers are also prone to environmental and food allergies, demodectic mange, and the three forms of incorrect bites – undershot bite, overshot bite, and wry mouth.

The Rat Terrier’s nutritional needs vary based on its age and lifestyle. However, an adult, moderately active Rat Terrier should eat between ¼-cups and 2 cups of high-quality, protein-rich, dry kibble. Rat Terriers are prone to overeating.

If they are physically active, this does not seem to be a problem. However, for Rat Terriers with more sedentary lifestyles, overeating can lead to obesity and increase their already high risk of heart problems and joint issues.

To avoid obesity, it is best advised to monitor the Rat Terrier’s appetite and feed as instructed on the kibble package. Alternatively, if feeding a homemade diet, it is advisable to get a canine nutritionist’s approval.

Purebred Rat Terriers can cost between $300 and $4000, but the usual purchase cost is around $425. The expenses of pet parenting a Rat Terrier for the first year are roughly between $1200 and $1500. After the first year, the annual costs will be around $800.

Deciding to get a Rat Terrier is a considerable commitment in responsibility, time, and money. However, the love and attention the Rat Terrier gets, they tend to give back tenfold.

The Rat Terrier is known as the Houdini of the canine world. Crafting escape plans is something this small dog breed enjoys. Plus, if they starts to run, there is no chance of catching they. Therefore, all Rat Terriers must be obedience trained. Just to be on the safe side, they must also always wear a collar and a tag with the owner’s info. Finally, escape-proofing the backyard is a must.

A: Yes. Rat Terriers are extremely good family pets. They are adaptable to all living arrangements and fond of children. All in all, Rat Terriers are excellent pets.

A: Generally speaking, Rat Terriers are not aggressive. They are friendly and not naturally wary of strangers. However, if not properly socialized they can be aggressive towards other smaller pets.

A: Rat Terriers are skilled, tenacious, and efficient rat exterminators. They are capable of killing a large number of rats in a very short period of time.

The American Veterinary Dental Society reports that 80 percent of dogs show signs of oral disease by age three.  If left alone, you will likely see some damage to your Shih Tzu"s teeth before they turn 3.

Dental disease affects the whole body, too. Bacteria from these inflamed oral areas can enter the bloodstream and affect major body organs. The liver, kidneys, heart, and lungs are most commonly affected.

Plaque starts first and is that gummy film that forms on the teeth after a meal.  It mixes with the bacteria in the mouth along with saliva and blood cells.   After about 24 hours, it combines with the salts in the saliva and begins to harden.  Eventually, it continues to accumulate and mix with the salts and turns into tarter.

The tarter sticks to the tooth providing a rough surface where bacteria can grow.  The bacteria leads to inflammation of the gums which may result in bleeding.  The swollen, red gums called gingivitis eventually leads to periodontal disease.

Tarter builds up near the gum, pushing the gums away from the roots of the tooth.  As it continues, it can cause pain.  The bacteria on the tarter does not remain confined to the mouth.  It can be absorbed into the blood stream and travel to vital organs including the heart and the kidneys.

Like us, dogs get two sets of teeth in their lives 28 baby or deciduous and 42 permanent or adult teeth. The first 28 baby teeth erupt through the gums between the ages of 3 and 6 weeks of age and feel like tiny sharp needles if they bite down onto your skin.

First the incisors appear around 3 weeks, then the canines and premolars.  The last premolar to come in occurs around 8 to 12 weeks old.  Puppies do not have to grind much food, so they do not have molars.

Puppy teeth begin to shed and be replaced by permanent adult teeth at about four months of age. Don’t worry if you don’t see these teeth, because the puppy often swallows them.

Beginning around the age of 5 or 6 weeks, the puppy goes through a difficult teething stage where anything is fair game, especially human fingers.  They will chew on anything to relieve the discomfort and sometimes they even drool or lose their appetite.

Sometimes a Shih Tzu puppy will not loose all of their deciduous teeth before the permanent teeth erupt. This is a common occurrence in the Shih Tzu breed.  The baby teeth will eventually need to be removed by the veterinarian.

Normally a vet will check the puppy"s teeth prior to a spay or neuter operation and remove them while the dog is under anesthesia.  If you do not plan to spay or neuter your dog, you will want to make an appointment for a veterinary consultation.  The vet may suggest that the baby tooth be removed.

Do you know what puppy breath smells like?  Sure you do if you"ve ever had a puppy.  Fresh and clean, puppies mouths are easy to kiss, but not one of my puppies.  This particular puppy had a foul smelling odor coming from her mouth, the same odor you might associate with a senior dog who is in desperate need of a dental cleaning.

This puppy was Cherry, the one you see in the header of