overshot jaw in puppies brands

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An overbite might not seem like a serious condition for your dog, but severely misaligned teeth can lead to difficulty eating, gum injuries and bruising, bad breath and different types of dental problems, including tooth decay and gingivitis. Fortunately, there are ways to help fix the problem before it becomes irreversible.

An overbite is a genetic, hereditary condition where a dog"s lower jaw is significantly shorter than its upper jaw. This can also be called an overshot jaw, overjet, parrot mouth, class 2 malocclusion or mandibular brachynathism, but the result is the same – the dog"s teeth aren"t aligning properly. In time, the teeth can become improperly locked together as the dog bites, creating even more severe crookedness as the jaw cannot grow appropriately.

This problem is especially common in breeds with narrow, pointed muzzles, such as collies, shelties, dachshunds, German shepherds, Russian wolfhounds and any crossbred dogs that include these ancestries.

Dental examinations for puppies are the first step toward minimizing the discomfort and effects of an overbite. Puppies can begin to show signs of an overbite as early as 8-12 weeks old, and by the time a puppy is 10 months old, its jaw alignment will be permanently set and any overbite treatment will be much more challenging. This is a relatively narrow window to detect and correct overbites, but it is not impossible.

Small overbites often correct themselves as the puppy matures, and brushing the dog"s teeth regularly to prevent buildup can help keep the overbite from becoming more severe. If the dog is showing signs of an overbite, it is best to avoid any tug-of-war games that can put additional strain and stress on the jaw and could exacerbate the deformation.

If an overbite is more severe, dental intervention may be necessary to correct the misalignment. While this is not necessary for cosmetic reasons – a small overbite may look unsightly, but does not affect the dog and invasive corrective procedures would be more stressful than beneficial – in severe cases, a veterinarian may recommend intervention. There are spacers, braces and other orthodontic accessories that can be applied to a dog"s teeth to help correct an overbite. Because dogs" mouths grow more quickly than humans, these accessories may only be needed for a few weeks or months, though in extreme cases they may be necessary for up to two years.

If the dog is young enough, however, tooth extraction is generally preferred to correct an overbite. Puppies have baby teeth, and if those teeth are misaligned, removing them can loosen the jaw and provide space for it to grow properly and realign itself before the adult teeth come in. Proper extraction will not harm those adult teeth, but the puppy"s mouth will be tender after the procedure and because they will have fewer teeth for several weeks or months until their adult teeth have emerged, some dietary changes and softer foods may be necessary.

An overbite might be disconcerting for both you and your dog, but with proper care and treatment, it can be minimized or completely corrected and your dog"s dental health will be preserved.

Malocclusion in dogs causes an abnormal alignment of the teeth, which results in an abnormal bite. A dog whose lower jaw is protruding and with the bottom teeth sticking out when at rest is known as an underbite dog.

We will focus on “class 3 malocclusions,” also known as an underbite. This condition happens when the lower jaw teeth protrude forward relative to the upper jaw teeth.

Class 1 malocclusion, on the other hand, occurs when the upper and lower jaws are proportionally in shape in length, but the teeth don’t come together properly.

Dental is probably the number one cause of malocclusion in dogs. Dental underbites occur when one or a couple of teeth are abnormally positioned within a normal facial skeletal structure, says Dr. Santiago Peralta, assistant professor of veterinary dentistry and oral surgery at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine (CUCVM).1

Dental underbite commonly happens when a baby tooth fails to fall out and is still present when a permanent tooth erupts. This causes crowding among teeth. Thus the abnormal position and underbite look in your dog.

This cause of underbite on dogs is the easiest to correct. According to Sacramento Veterinary Dental Services, the extraction of the primary teeth (interceptive orthodontics) should be performed as soon as possible to correct the problem.2

Dr. Nadine Fiani, assistant clinical professor of dentistry and oral surgery at CUCVM, says the skeletal type of malocclusion is where the dog’s facial structure is abnormal, causing the teeth not to fit together correctly.

Skeletal underbite in dogs may be more problematic than dental.An abnormal mouth bone structure may cause the canine teeth or maxillary incisors to make abnormal contact with the gums causing severe distress and damage to your pup’s teeth and gums. This could fasten the rapid onset of periodontal disease.

“[A dog underbite] will be acquired, whether because something happened during gestation or something happened during growth and development. The condition can develop due to an infection, trauma, or any other event that may alter maxillofacial [face and jaw] growth.”

A dog underbite may also be caused by jaw fractures that don’t heal properly. Trauma to the face and jaw caused by bites, accidents, or getting hit by a car can cause your dog to develop an underbite.

Fortunately, most dog underbites do not require any treatment. If the underbite is not causing damage to a dog’s mouth (i.e., preventing chewing or swallowing), there may be no need for treatment.

2. Crown modification is often used for shortening or modifying crowns to prevent the tooth from causing trauma and using orthodontics to move the tooth into the correct position.

Any dog breed can develop an underbite. However, Class 3 malocclusions (dog underbite) are more common in brachiocephalic dog breeds, like Pugs and Bulldogs. However, an underbite can appear in any dog breed.

Most malocclusions are genetic. It’s important to have your dog’s bite evaluated for non-symmetrical jaw growth by a professional, especially if your dog is brachycephalic.

Upon examination, your vet should recommend treatment if necessary. In some cases, underbites don’t cause any irritation and are nothing to worry about. Be sure to request a dental radiograph (X-rays) for your pet. This will help identify most oral diseases in dogs.

Orthodontic treatments for dogs with underbites vary in price depending on the condition, the number of teeth involved, rounds of anesthesia, among other factors. The treatment cost of malocclusion in dogs usually fluctuates between $1,500 and $4,000, according to PetMD.

Underbite in puppies may sometimes be corrected using braces. However, extraction and filling can also be applied. Treatment options for a puppy with underbites will vary depending on the type of malocclusion your pet faces, age, health status, and other factors.

Just like adult dogs, puppies with underbites are prone to health issues. If your dog has an underbite, seek medical attention to determine if your puppy’s underbite is detrimental to his health.

An underbite is permanent and generally does not get worse with age. Dogs with underbites do not have many problems. However, the main issue you may encounter is that the teeth align and rub against each other and create a wound within the gums or hard palate.

Switching from hard to soft dog food is advised when living with a dog with an underbite. Some dogs with underbites tend to have trouble chewing their food. Nom Nom fresh dog food is a great alternative to aid when this happens and to put less stress on your dog’s teeth when eating his food.

When it comes to dog treats for dogs with underbites, consider these soft-baked dog treats by Merrick or American Journey’s soft chewy dog treat. You also want to provide a soft chewing dog toy like Chuckit! Roller Dog Toy. Its textured chenille fabric is gentle on dogs’ mouths.

Dogs whose teeth have been extracted or re-shaped must maintain a strict recovery period by only eating soft foods. Regular cleaning is needed to make sure the dog’s teeth continue to be healthy. Be sure to brush your dog’s teeth regularly.

We love using our Dental Kit from Bark Bright. This veterinarian formulated enzymatic toothpaste has three enzymes that break down the debris that cause bad breath.

This helps promote fresher breath and cleaner mouth reducing the chances of periodontal disease, which is more common in dogs with underbites and present in 80% of dogs have by age 3. No toothbrush required.

Finally, dogs with underbites often develop excessive tartar and calculus build-up. Hence, it’s also a good idea to target the build-up of plaque and tartar with a Dental Formula Water to leave your dog’s teeth and gums in tip-top condition.

A dog’s bite typically sets at ten months old. It is unlikely that an underbite will improve on its own at this point. However, there is a chance that your dog’s underbite can worsen due to poor oral hygiene and neglecting the condition.

Most dogs that show underbite symptoms as a young puppy will likely have a dog underbite for the rest of their lives. This misalignment can sometimes self-correct as your dog develops, but if your dog is genetically predisposed, it is highly unlikely for this to happen. Dog underbite can be corrected through surgery and braces in some cases.

Genetics, accidents, dental or skeletal problems can lead to underbites in dogs. In some breeds, underbites are the result of intentional breeding practices. Breeders breed underbite dogs specifically to engineer the type of jaw structure of a bulldog or a boxer.

An underbite malocclusion can be considered normal and healthy as long as the dog can chew and eat solid food comfortably and their bite is functional. Some breeds of dogs, usually flat-faced or brachycephalic, are naturally born with underbites. These breeds have been genetically bred to have a lower jaw that is slightly longer than the upper.

Bulldogs have brachycephalic skulls, which means their faces are pushed inward. As a result, the upper jaw is usually shorter than the lower — underbite. In some bulldogs, the underbite is minor, while in others, it is extreme that they find eating difficult.

As a responsible underbite dog parent, you need to be proactive in checking your dog regularly for any developments that could cause substantive health and dental issues so they can live a long and healthy life by your side.

Your cat or dog’s underbite, also known as a class three malocclusion, is probably one of their most special quirks. Most of the time, having a crooked smile won’t cause your pet any pain or discomfort. For some dog breeds, it’s considered to be a normal trait. Even so, pets with underbites need extra care to ensure their toothy grin stays clean and healthy.

In cats and dogs with a normal bite, the bottom canine teeth will slightly overlap their top canines. For those with a class three malocclusion, the bottom canine teeth stick out a bit further than usual, and the bottom jaw may also be longer than the top. The bottom canines and incisors may be visible at all times, even when your pet’s mouth is closed.

There are two types of malocclusions in pets: skeletal and dental. A cat or dog with a skeletal malocclusion will have a mishappen jaw, while those with a dental malocclusion will have a typical skull and jaw shape with teeth that are misaligned.

When a kitten or puppy is born, their lower jaw is smaller so they can nurse from their mother. As their milk teeth grow in during their first few weeks, their lower jaw will grow longer. In some cases, the lower jaw grows too quickly, creating a misaligned bite.

Certain breeds are predisposed to developing an underbite. In some dog breeds, particularly brachycephalic breeds like the Pug, Boxer, and French Bulldog, an “undershot” jaw is listed as a desirable trait in the AKC breed standard.

Underbites do not always have a genetic cause. If an animal suffers a traumatic jaw injury, it can affect their bite alignment. Rough play, such as a strenuous game of tug-o-war, can put stress on developing jaw. Retained milk teeth can also affect final bite alignment when adult teeth come in.

A malocclusion is detectable in pets as young as eight weeks of age. In some cases, the puppy or kitten may grow out of it. In others, though, it can cause complications by the time your pet’s adult teeth grow in, which occurs around 6-8 months of age.

Misaligned teeth may dig into surrounding gum tissue or palate, or rub up against other teeth. Eating can be painful in these circumstances. In severe cases, a misaligned canine tooth can create an oronasal fistula, or an opening that leads into the nasal cavity, though this is rare.

Your pet’s bite alignment may affect their ability to completely close their mouth, affecting their ability to breathe properly. Also, one of the functions of saliva is to wash away bacteria. If your pet’s lower teeth and gums are always exposed, they may tend to dry out and become more susceptible to bacteria that causes gingivitis.

If your pet’s breed is prone to underbites, or if you notice misaligned teeth when you first bring them home, make sure to talk to your vet about their teeth at their first appointment. Your vet can monitor changes in their bite, may recommend treatment, or might refer you to a veterinary dental specialist.

For older bites with underbites, look out for signs that your pet is experiencing dental pain or developing gingivitis. They may have trouble picking up food or chewing, might shy away when you touch their face, they may have bad breath, or you may notice blood in their saliva.

Your kitten or puppy may need early intervention treatment to correct their bite. Your veterinarian may refer you to a veterinary dental surgeon to remove teeth that are causing an issue if they’re not essential. It’s also possible to reduce the height of canines that dig into oral tissue. In some cases, orthodontic appliances, similar to braces for humans, can be used to shift teeth for a more functional bite.

Most of the time, though, an underbite is a cosmetic issue - or may only add to your pet’s charm - and your veterinarian will decide it’s not beneficial to correct it.

Pets with a slight underbite are often at an increased risk for dental disease due to exposed teeth and overcrowding. With daily brushing, regular dentals, and a healthy diet, you can keep tartar buildup at bay. To fight buildup between misaligned teeth, which can be hard to reach with a toothbrush, you can also use dental additives, chews, and dental wipes.

Enzo is the Hawthorne Hills Veterinary Hospital Pet of the Month for May. Everyone knows that puppies need vaccines to keep them healthy and protected from diseases. However, it can be easy to underestimate the benefits of thorough and regular examinations when puppies are growing into adulthood. Every breed has special characteristics that make them unique and add to their appeal and sometimes there are physical changes that need to be addressed quickly. For this reason our veterinarians believe in examinations with every vaccine, especially during a puppy’s formative months.

Enzo is a short-haired Havanese and he was born with his lower jaw shorter than the upper jaw. This is called an Overbite, also referred to as an Overshot Jaw, a Parrot Mouth or Mandibular Brachygnathism. This malocclusion is a genetic change and can be seen in a number of breeds, oftentimes collie related breeds and dachshunds. Occasionally this change happens because of differences in the growth of the upper and lower jaws, and in many cases it doesn’t cause any significant problems other than cosmetically.

Dr. Robin Riedinger evaluated Enzo at his first visit when he was just 11 weeks of age and while the lower jaw was too short, there was no evidence of damage and no indication that this was causing a problem for Enzo. When there is abnormal occlusion of the teeth, it is important to monitor closely for trouble caused by the teeth being aligned improperly. Malocclusions can lead to gum injuries, puncturing of the hard palate, abnormal positioning of adjacent teeth, abnormal wear and bruising of the teeth, permanent damage and subsequent death of one or more teeth, and in the long run, premature loss of teeth. Some malocclusions can be severe enough to interfere with normal eating and drinking.

Within three weeks, when Enzo was only 3.5 months old, it was clear that our doctors would need to intervene. The left and right sides of Enzo’s upper jaw (maxilla) were growing at different rates because the lower canine teeth were being trapped by the upper canine teeth. This is called Dental Interlock. Because the teeth are ‘locked’ in place, the lower jaw cannot grow symmetrically and this creates a number of other problems. Early intervention is critical.

The solution for Dental Interlock is to extract the teeth from the shorter jaw; in this case, the lower ‘baby’ canines and thereby allow the lower jaw (mandible) to grow in the best way possible. This procedure is most effective when the Dental Interlock is discovered early and the extractions are performed quickly. In some cases, this can be as early as ten weeks of age. Dr. Riedinger consulted with a local veterinary dental specialist to confirm the treatment plan and to get advice on extracting the deciduous teeth without damaging the developing adult canines. Dental radiographs are essential to proper extraction technique and also to ensure that there are no other abnormalities below the gumline.

You can see how long the roots of the deciduous ‘baby’ teeth are. During normal growth, the body will begin to resorb the roots, making them loose, and allow them to fall out as the adult tooth begins to emerge. When we need to remove the deciduous teeth before they are loose, it can be quite tricky to remove the tooth carefully without breaking it and without injuring the adjacent teeth.

Once extracted, each deciduous canine tooth was about 2 centimeters long; the roots were about 1.5 centimeters. Many people are surprised to learn that the root of a dog’s tooth is so large – 2/3 to 3/4 of the tooth is below the gumline. This is one reason why it is so important to use radiographs to evaluate teeth on a regular basis, not just in a growing puppy. Adult teeth can, and frequently do, have problems that are only visible with a radiograph.

Enzo came through his procedure extremely well. He was given pain medications for comfort and had to eat canned foods and avoid chewing on his toys for the next two weeks to ensure that the gum tissue healed properly. As he continues to grow we will be monitoring how his jaw develops and Dr. Riedinger will also be watching the alignment of his adult canine teeth when they start to emerge around six months of age. Hopefully this early intervention will minimize problems for Enzo in the future.

They are used for grasping food and help keep the tongue within the mouth. Canines (also called cuspids or fang teeth) are located on the sides of the incisors and used to grasp food. Premolars (bicuspids) are for shearing or cutting food and are located behind the canines. The molars are the last teeth in the mouth. They are used for grinding nourishment for entry into the esophagus.

Photo 5 (top left): Mandibular incisor crowding typical of class I malocclusion. Photo 6 (top right): Class II brachygnathia overjet. Photo 7 (bottom left): Class II prognathia underbite. Photo 8 (bottom right): Ulcerated mandibular gingiva from maxillary canines.

The way teeth align with each other is termed occlusion. Normal occlusion in most medium and long-nosed breeds consists of the upper (maxillary) incisors just overlapping the lower (mandibular) incisors (scissor bite). (See Photo 1.) The lower canine should be located equidistant between the last (lateral) incisor and the upper canine tooth (Photo 2). The premolar tips of the lower jaw should point between the spaces of the upper jaw teeth (Photos 3 and 4).

Malocclusion refers to abnormal tooth alignment. Overbite (overshot, class two, overjet, mandibular brachygnathism) occurs when the lower jaw is shorter than the upper (Photo 6). There is a gap between the upper and lower incisors when the mouth is closed. The upper premolars are displaced at least 25 percent toward the front when compared to the lower premolars. An underbite (undershot, reverse scissor bite, prognathism, class 3) occurs when the lower teeth protrude in front of the upper jaw teeth (Photos 7, 8) If the upper and lower incisor teeth meet each other edge to edge, the occlusion is an even or level bite (Photo 11). When the upper and lower incisors do not overlap or even meet each other when the mouth is closed, the pet has an open bite . Anterior crossbite occurs when the canine and premolar teeth on both sides of the mouth occlude normally, but one or more of the lower incisors are positioned in front of the upper incisors (Photo 12). Anterior crossbite is the most common malocclusion, is not considered genetic or hereditary and is correctable. Posterior crossbite occurs when one or more of the premolar lower jaw teeth overlap the upper jaw teeth. This is a rare condition that occurs in the larger-nosed dog breeds. A wry mouth or wrybite occurs when one side of the jaw grows longer than the other. Lingually displaced mandibular (base narrow)canines occur when the mandibular canine teeth protrude inward causing penetrating damage to the upper palate. This condition is due to either persistent primary teeth or a too-narrow mandible and can usually be corrected through an orthodontic appliance (inclined plan) used to direct the teeth into normal occlusion. Rostrally deviated canine teeth occur when the maxillary or mandibular canine is directed forward and can usually be corrected by orthodontic movement, crown reduction or extraction.

Photo 9 (top left): Wry bite canine. Photo 10 (top right): Wry bite feline. Photo 11 (bottom left): Level bite. Photo 12 (bottom right): Anterior crossbite (maxillary left central incisor in reverse scissors occlusion).

Granted, a perfectly aligned set of pearl whites is sought-after for a million-dollar smile in the human world. However, in the doggy world, having a canine malocclusion or underbite (misaligned teeth) is the least of their worries.

Depending on a pooch’s breed, an underbite is particularly regarded as the standard or could be a hereditary abnormality, which may usher in difficulties in eating, among other problems.

Nonetheless, knowledge is power! In this guide, we’ll explore the ins and outs of a dog underbite, including the causes, cost, and treatment. Knowing this can aid in the minimization of problems and curb the reoccurrence of irregular bites in bloodlines.

It describes a skeletal or dental condition characterized by the lower teeth protruding farther than the upper front teeth. A dog underbite is also known as a Class-3 malocclusion. In addition to creating an appearance in the face and mouth that closely resembles a bulldog, malocclusion triggers abnormal teeth alignment, which causes an irregular bite.

A pooch with a protruding lower jaw and bottom teeth sticking out when at rest is referred to as an underbite dog. Before we delve into whether or not underbite on pooches can be rectified, it’s essential to understand what causes it and its variations.

It’s probably the top cause of malocclusion in pooches. Dental underbite occurs when one or a few teeth are irregularly positioned within a regular facial skeletal structure. As puppies grow, they begin losing their milk teeth that are gradually substituted by the permanent ones.

However, in some instances, a puppy’s baby teeth don’t fall. Consequentially, they interfere with the permanent teeth that end up growing crookedly due to the lack of ample space. In relatively undershot bites, the incisors are the only teeth that contribute to the misalignment.

Nonetheless, the dental cause of a dog underbite is the easiest to rectify, provided that interceptive orthodontics (the extraction of primary teeth) is performed as soon as possible.

In some dog breeds, an underbite is a cherished quality that is part of the norm. For instance, pugs, boxers, Pekingese, and bulldogs are renowned for their brachycephalic features. In this scenario, an abnormal mouth bone structure may result in the maxillary incisors or teeth making irregular contact with the gums. Consequentially, this leads to adverse distress and damage to your canine’s gums and teeth.

With the irresistible shorter jaws and pushed-in faces that a multitude of people find adorable, the gap into which the teeth erupt is restricted, ushering in a malocclusion. Given that skeletal underbite in pooches is significantly more problematic than dental causes, this leads to the rapid development of periodontal disease.

In this case, malocclusion in pooches is hereditary, meaning the condition will likely be transmitted from one generation to another. Moreover, it’s acquired when something goes wrong during the growth and development or gestation stage, for instance, trauma or infection, among other events that stunt maxillofacial growth.

Typically, a dog’s lower and upper teeth intersect in a ‘scissor bite’ when the jaw is closed. However, some scenarios arise whereby the lower teeth stick out in front of the upper ones causing a reverse scissor bite. Genetic causes of a dog underbite are seen in long and medium-muzzled pooches.

In some scenarios, a puppy’s lower jaw grows more rapidly, becoming visibly longer than the upper jaw. Occurring in puppies as young as eight weeks, some upper jaw teeth get restricted behind those of the lower jaw. Consequentially, the upper jaw doesn’t grow at the normal rate.

At times, the case of a dog underbite is acquired from the inappropriate tugging and chewing during the delicate stage of teething. Puppies then develop bite issues whereby their growing teeth shift from their initial position.

To avoid this predicament, refrain from playing tug-of-war and other aggressive games with your dog. Using ropes or towels to delight in these games can result in your pet’s teeth shifting into an unusual position, which results in their misalignment.

Dogs with adverse undershot bites may experience challenges in chewing. Furthermore, their soft tissues get damaged. At times, the undershot bite is adverse enough to require tooth extraction or orthodontic treatment.

Inform your vet immediately you spot the development of an underbite in your puppy. Early intervention can make all the difference in curbing more adverse issues.

However, it’s more prevalent in certain breeds than others. Although small dog breeds with underbite are the most common, boxers and other larger breeds are also susceptible. Here are a few examples:

If your dog has an underbite and you’re scratching your head wondering whether it can be rectified, fret not, as the answer is yes! The good news is most dog types of underbite don’t call for any treatment if it’s not interfering with the chewing and swallowing process.

It’s typically used for altering and shortening crowns to curb the tooth from triggering trauma. Crown modification shifts the teeth into their appropriate positions.

It’s a procedure that encompasses the extraction, shifting, and shortening of teeth to ensure they perfectly fit like a puzzle and no longer hurt a dog.

Untreated underbite causes more than off-kilter smiles. As you may have guessed, dogs with malocclusion are susceptible to a wealth of health risks, as outlined below. It ushers in a life of discomfort for your beloved canine companion.

Granted, pooches with an underbite smile are as adorable as they come. However, this condition can trigger adverse oral problems, so it’s in the best interest of your pet to act as quickly as possible. If your pooch is exhibiting any of the symptoms mentioned above, we recommend visiting your local vet as soon as you can. They’ll then check for signs of infection and pain.

Upon examination, the vet will recommend treatment if need be. At times, an underbite doesn’t cause irritation, which should put you at ease. Nonetheless, ensure you request a type of X-ray known as a dental radiograph for your pet. It will easily pinpoint most oral ailments in dogs.

If you’re curious as to how much you’ll have to pay to correct your pup’s underbite, keep in mind that the orthodontic treatments vary based on various factors. They include the specific underbite condition, rounds of anesthesia, and the number of teeth involved. Typically, the price ranges from $1500 to $4000, after which your pet will need to visit the vet biweekly or weekly to monitor the progress.

Underbite in young dogs can be rectified using braces. Nonetheless, filling and extraction can also be applied. The treatment alternatives for a puppy with an underbite vary based on the type of malocclusion involved, their health status, and age.

As is the case with adult dogs, a puppy with an underbite is susceptible to health problems. If you notice an underbite, we recommend seeking medical attention to determine if it’s detrimental to their health. If you’re wondering whether your puppy will grow out of the underbite, the truth is, although it’s possible, the chances are slim to none if it’s genetic.

Symptomatic dog underbite can gain from early treatment and care to prevent eating challenges and pain, among other complications. With that being said, here’s a breakdown of a few ways to care for a pooch with an underbite.

We recommend switching from hard to soft food when residing with a pup with an underbite. After all, it’s a no-brainer that a dog underbite causes chewing problems.

Wet dog food is an excellent option as it puts minimal stress on your pooch’s teeth when eating. You can also consider soft, chewy, or baked dog treats.

Frequent cleaning is necessary to ensure a pup’s teeth remain in tip-top health. Therefore, brush your dog’s teeth with a vet-recommended toothpaste and toothbrush every two days.

A dog with an underbite typically develops excessive calculus and tartar. As such, targeting this build-up with dental formula water will keep your pooch’s gums and teeth in excellent condition.

While a dog underbite isn’t necessarily a problem, it’s undoubtedly a cause for concern. Turning a blind eye can usher in a boatload of health adversities for your pup, and that’s the last thing you need.

Therefore, as a responsible dog owner, you should be proactive in taking the steps we’ve discussed to pinpoint and treat an underbite for your pet to live a long, healthy, and happy life right by your side. Moreover, you need to exercise vigilance when it comes to planning regular checkups to monitor your pup’s health.

Lastly, without a shadow of a doubt, all pooches are worthy of equal care and love. However, we don’t recommend seeking out dog breeds that are susceptible to an underbite (regardless of how adorable they are) unless you can provide the much-needed care that includes hefty vet bills if complications crop up.

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These dental elastics are very practical for temporarily correcting the position of the teeth. They allow you to avoid the slightest penalty at dog shows, for example.

With these elastics, we can temporarily or permanently replace badly implanted teeth, move teeth back lower teeth for example when the dog is slightly undershot or the jaw is in claws.

The rubber is placed from croc to croc, at the base. In front of the teeth at their base, without managing to catch the gum so as not to irritate it and so that the dog does not feel upset.

Dwarfism in dogs encompasses several growth and developmental conditions, usually inherited, which result in a dog being smaller than it should be. Dwarfism often results in health issues and a reduction in life span.

There are several causes of dwarfism in dogs, with pituitary dwarfism and achondroplasia the commonest. Dogs with pituitary dwarfism have an underdeveloped pituitary gland and a deficiency of growth hormone. It is a genetic condition and is seen most often in German Shepherds. Affected dogs are small but their body remains in the correct proportions.

Achondroplasia is a developmental abnormality affecting bone and cartilage. Again it is a genetic condition but affected dogs tend to have short limbs that are out of proportion to the rest of their body. They may also have other abnormalities and because it is a hereditary condition, it is recommended that affected dogs should not be used for breeding.

If a puppy has dwarfism, you may start to see signs from as early as 2 months old. If you think that your puppy may have dog dwarfism or have any other concerns about their health, you should always consult a vet.

For a diagnosis of dwarfism, the vet will usually examine your dog and may carry out X-rays to look at bone development. Make note of any more abnormalities you’ve spotted. To rule out other conditions and further confirm if a dog has dwarfism, the vet may want to take blood and send it to the lab for further testing.

Though there is no cure for dwarfism, whatever the cause, your vet may suggest medication to help manage the condition together with pain relief if required. For example, it is possible to treat and manage pituitary dwarfism in dogs with prescribed dosages of growth hormone. In mature dogs, spaying or neutering could also help. It’s important to talk to a vet first if you suspect that your dog has dwarfism.

Depending on the severity of the case, some dogs with dwarfism can live relatively normal lives. Other dogs, however, unfortunately, won’t live past 5 years of age. This does depend on the breed and type of dwarfism – your vet will be able to provide more specifics for your dog.

Giving your dog a good quality of life is highly important. Dwarfism in dogs can cause certain health issues that will need to be managed to ensure your pooch is as happy as possible.

One thing to bear in mind with achondroplasia is that affected dogs tend to be prone to arthritis. Another thing to note is obesityas carrying extra weight puts additional strain on arthritic joints– making sure your dog has a healthy diet and a good amount of exercise is important here.

The short and smaller limbs seen with achondroplasia are seen as desirable in some breeds and this has resulted in these traits being selectively bred for. Here are some examples:

Undershot is a class III malocclusion that is also referred to as mandibular prognathism, maxillary brachygnathism, mandibular mesioclusion, or an underbite. This malocclusion is characterized by a shorter upper jaw and a longer lower jaw, resulting in lower teeth that are in front of the upper teeth. While this condition is normal for some breeds, such as Bulldogs, in many breeds it is unusual. An undershot jaw occurs when the lower jaw grows faster than normal and becomes longer than the upper jaw, and is usually evident around 8 weeks of age in puppies. This misalignment can cause soft tissue trauma, such as to the lips. When the incisors meet instead of fitting next to each other, it is called a level bite. When the malocclusion causes the lower incisors to be placed in front of the upper incisors, it is called a reverse scissors bite.

The cause of overshot and undershot jaws in dogs relate to the increased or decreased rate of growth of the upper and lower jaws in relation to one another. This can occur due to a: Genetic disorder Trauma; Systemic infection ;Nutritional disorder; Endocrine disorder; Abnormal setting of puppy teeth; Early or late loss of puppy teeth.

After a quick physical exam, your vet may have to sedate your dog in order to perform a thorough oral exam. This will assess your dog’s skull type and teeth location in relation to the teeth on the opposite jaw. Often, the placement of the upper and lower incisors in relation to one another can determine what type of malocclusion your dog has. Your vet will note any areas of trauma due to teeth striking those areas, and any cysts, tumors, abscesses, or remaining puppy teeth that may be present. A dental X-ray can also help to assess the health of the jaws and teeth. These diagnostic methods will lead to a diagnosis of an overshot or undershot jaw in your dog.

Treatment of a jaw misalignment will depend on the severity of the condition. If your dog has a misalignment, but can still bite and chew food without problems, no treatment may be needed. If the misalignment is caught early in a puppy’s life, it may only be temporary and may correct itself over time. However, there are times when intervention may be needed. If your puppy’s teeth are stopping the normal growth of his jaws, then surgery to remove those puppy teeth may be performed. This may allow the jaws to continue to grow, but will not make them grow. For older dogs who are experiencing pain and trauma due to misaligned jaws and teeth, oral surgery is generally performed to extract teeth that are causing trauma, to move teeth so that they fit, or to create space for a misaligned tooth to occupy. Other therapies include crown reductions or braces.

If your dog is genetically programmed to have an overshot or undershot jaw, intervention can help, but will not slow or stop the abnormal growth of either jaw. Prevent jaw misalignments in puppies by not breeding dogs who have overshot or undershot jaws.

Every day people face the question of what to do with their pets when travel, illness, or family emergencies disrupt normal care. Some pet owners attempt to solve this problem by taking their pets with them, only to discover that hotel restrictions, travel-induced pet illness, and runaway pets can turn their trip into a disaster. Other pet owners turn over the care of their animals to well-meaning but untrained neighbors or friends. Again, the results are often unsatisfactory. Pets entrusted to such part-time custodians frequently escape or become seriously ill because of a lack of reliable, frequent, and knowledgeable supervision.

Fortunately, the majority of pet owners who find themselves in need of substitute pet care utilize the services of professional boarding kennels. Annually, more than 30 million pet owners recognize that full-time, knowledgeable, and experienced boarding kennel operators provide the most dependable, secure, and safe pet care available.

Because competent, ethical boarding kennels are an important part of your pet care program, and because the selection of a boarding kennel can be a confusing and disconcerting process for pet owners, the American Boarding Kennels Association (ABKA) has assembled this data to assist you in evaluating, selecting, and working with your local boarding kennel. Our goals are twofold:

Throughout the United States and Canada, there are approximately 9,000 boarding kennels offering their services to more than 30,000,000 pet owners annually. Boarding kennels are businesses designed and operated specifically to care for pets, as distinguished from breeding kennels, which are devoted to producing puppies; training kennels, which take in dogs for hunting, protection, and other types of specialized training; and veterinary hospitals, which are designed to care for sick and injured animals. Most boarding kennels provide a variety of pet services, such as boarding, grooming, training classes, pet supply sales, and pet shipping. Although the vast majority of boarded pets are dogs and cats, many kennels also offer to board horses, birds, reptiles, and exotic pets.

A characteristic common to all boarding kennel operators is a deep love and respect for animals. This is their basic motivation for establishing their kennel. In 1977, however, a dedicated group of kennel operators recognized that the love of animals, by itself, was not enough to guarantee the development of professional standards of pet care within the industry. What was also needed where educational opportunities for kennel operators, to enable them to stay abreast of developments in pet care and to establish a method for promoting a high level of ethical conduct within the industry. To achieve these goals, these concerned kennel operators founded the American Boarding Kennels Association (ABKA).

Today the ABKA has a membership of almost 1,600 kennels throughout the U.S. and Canada. By means of its publications, conventions, seminars, regional meetings, ethics program, a certification program for kennel operators, accreditation program for kennels, and industry committees, the Association helps member kennels to develop and maintain the highest professional and business standards. This in turn enables ABKA members to offer you, the pet owner, the most knowledgeable, ethical pet care available anywhere.

The goals of the ABKA member kennels are happy, healthy pets and satisfied pet owners. This requires a cooperative effort from the kennel owner and pet owner. In the following pages, the ABKA, in response to numerous requests from pet owners, lists the features you should look for in selecting your kennel and suggests what you can do to ensure that your pet receives the best care possible. Let’s start at the beginning.

1. Yellow Pages: Yellow page advertising is the primary method of kennel advertising. Remember though, that the size of the ad is no indication of the facility’s quality.

2. Recommendations of friends: Satisfied customers are the best recommendation that a kennel can receive. Ask your friends and neighbors about their experiences. Check with your veterinarian or ask the kennel in question for references.

3. Better Business Bureau: If your community has a Better Business Bureau, a phone inquiry about your local kennels is appropriate. Ask about a specific kennel’s reputation and if any complaints have been lodged against them.

1. Telephoning the kennel. Call to see if the kennel can accommodate your pet. During peak times such as the Christmas season and summer vacations, many kennels are booked up and cannot accept your pet. Also, because some pets require special handling or accommodations (very young puppies, animals on special medication or feeding schedules, or giant breeds, for example), all kennels may not accept them. While you are on the phone, make an appointment to visit the kennel.

2. Making a personal visit to the kennel. A personal visit is essential to determine whether the kennel will be satisfactory. During your visit, observe or ask about the following …

Following regular daily clean-up procedures, the kennel should look (and smell) neat and clean. Kennel operators are proud of their kennels and like to show them off, but some of them do not permit visitors into areas where animals are housed. There are two key reasons for establishing a “No Visitors” policy. First, some dogs react unpredictably to strangers (They become excessively fearful or aggressive). As a result, the presence of strangers in the kennel can cause such dogs to injure themselves or develop intestinal problems. Second, visitors do not follow the same stringent disinfecting procedures used by kennel personnel and can transport contagious agents (bacteria, viruses) into the kennel. However, kennels with a “No Visitors” policy should provide you with some type of viewing window so that you can see where your pet will be staying.

In visiting your local kennels, you will observe that there are several types of kennel designs currently in use. Some kennels have indoor/outdoor runs; some have totally enclosed facilities, and some house pets inside, but utilize outside exercise areas. Each of these designs has its own advantages, and you should ask the kennel operator to explain the advantages of the system in use at that kennel

When you are on a trip, your pet may decide to try to “find” you. Because of this tendency, and because very few homes are designed with pet security in mind, pets can escape from inexperienced individuals who might be asked to watch your pet. Boarding kennels, on the other hand, are designed to prevent this kind of accident. During your kennel visit, look for sturdy, well-maintained fencing and gates, and dividers between runs. If your dog is a climber, digger, or some other type of “escape artist,” tell the kennel operator so that extra precautions can be taken (wire-covered runs, locks on gates, etc.). Cats always require covered facilities.

Kennel areas where your pet will stay should be free of sharp objects, harmful chemicals, and objects your pet might swallow. Primary enclosures (sleeping quarters) should provide solid dividers between your pet and the other boarders, both for reasons of safety and so that your pet will be able to relax and sleep without feeling challenged by his or her neighbors. Exercise areas should include barriers between runs high enough to prevent male dogs from urinating into adjacent runs. Surfaces should offer good traction even when wet. Firefighting equipment should be readily available.

Proper supervision is the key to good boarding. Pets should be checked frequently during the day by someone who is trained to recognize the signs of illness and distress. Experience and practical knowledge are required to detect or interpret such symptoms as lethargy (“I thought he was just sleeping”), severe intestinal disorders (friends or acquaintances rarely check the backyard for bloody stool), urinary problems (it is almost impossible to detect blood in urine when pets urinate on grass), loss of appetite, coughing, sneezing, or discharges from the eyes or nose. Yet, all of these signs can be significant. Competent kennel personnel is trained to recognize and evaluate such signs and to seek veterinary assistance when needed. Therefore, you should try to evaluate the competence of the kennel personnel.

One good indication that the kennel operator is keeping abreast of the latest developments in pet care is his or her ABKA membership. Check for a current ABKA membership plaque on the office wall. If your kennel operator has been awarded the CKO (Certified Kennel Operator) designation by ABKA, it means that his or her competence and ethical fitness have been acknowledged publicly by the Association. If the CKO plaque has been awarded, it will be displayed proudly along with the kennel’s ABKA membership certificate. Accredited kennels will display a certificate that attests to the fact that the kennel has been inspected and accredited by ABKA and has met over 200 standards of excellence.

The kennel should be free of dirt, fecal accumulation, odors, and parasite infestation (flies, fleas, ticks). There should be a strict schedule for disinfecting with effective chemicals.

Note: Since 1978, there have been worldwide outbreaks of an intestinal disease called canine parvovirus. This disease is spread when dogs come into contact with a contaminated surface (clothing, shoes, grass, carpeting, etc.). New vaccines are now available to combat this disease, but until the dog population develops immunity to the disease it will remain a potential problem. Several professional disinfectants, including bleach at a 1:30 solution, are effective against parvovirus. Therefore, if there have been any reports of parvovirus disease in your area, your kennel should be using one of these products for routine disinfecting in addition to requiring parvovirus immunization.

2. Food: Feeding procedures vary from kennel to kennel. Some kennels supply preferred brands of feed, which they serve to all boarders. However, they usually allow you to bring your pet’s favorite food if you wish. Other kennels maintain a stock of the most popular brands and feed whatever you request. Still, others require that you bring your pet’s food when you check-in. Determine the kennel’s policy and whether there are any additional charges for special feeding arrangements.

3. Veterinary services: Ask about the procedure for obtaining veterinary service, if required. Some kennels retain a veterinarian on the premises. Others prefer to use your pet’s veterinarian so that there will be a continuity of care. Remember that it is customary for you to be financially responsible for any veterinary care required for your pet while it is being boarded.

4. Immunization requirements: Dogs should be immunized against rabies, distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvovirus (DHLPP), and Bordetella. Cats should be vaccinated against rabies, panleukopenia or distemper, feline rhinotracheitis, calici virus, and pneumonitis (FVRCPP).

5. Medication policies and procedures: If your pet is taking medication, advise the kennel operator of the nature of the problem and the type and frequency of medication. Many kennels will not accept animals requiring excessive medication (more than three times per day or nighttime medication, for example) or animals requiring potentially dangerous medication (diabetes shots, for example). Remember, it is essential that heartworm preventive medication be continued during boarding if your dog is presently taking such medication. Inquire whether the kennel provides such medication or if you should bring a supply. Ask if there is an additional charge for medicating.

6. Parasite control: If you live in an area in which fleas and /or ticks are a problem, your kennel should utilize procedures for controlling these parasites (pre-entry examinations for boarders, sprays, dips, etc.).

1. Temperature control: The kennel should be able to maintain temperatures within healthful, comfortable limits for your pets. If you have an older pet, or a pet that requires warmer or cooler accommodations than are normally provided, determine if special arrangements can be made.

5. Bedding: Find out what arrangements are made for pet bedding. Some kennels provide resting platforms, bedding, or newspaper. Others require that you bring bedding from home. Check if there are any restrictions on owner-provided bedding (wicker beds and feather pillows, for example, may not be accepted).

6. Sleeping Quarters: As you know from observing your pet, most of his or her time is spent resting or sleeping. Your kennel should provide a place for this purpose (a primary enclosure). It should be clean and dry, and roomy enough for your pet to stand up comfortably, turn around easily, and stretch out.

7. Exercise Area: All animals require exercise, but the requirements for dogs and cats are different. Let’s discuss their requirements for exercise individually:

Dogs should have enough space to enable them to break into a run. Exercise time will depend upon the kennel’s layout. In some kennels, dogs are allowed free access to their own individual exercise runs during the day. In such kennels, you may want to make arrangements to limit your dog’s exercise time, if there is any reason he or she should not be allowed to exercise at will (an older dog with a heart condition or a “hyper” dog who tends to run too much weight off, for example). Other kennels use a “time-sharing” method for scheduling exercises. In such kennels, make sure that the time allowed and the frequency of exercise periods are adequate for your dog.

Because cats exercise isometrically (by stretching), and because they are not “pack animals” that need or enjoy the company of other animals (as dogs do), they do not necessarily require separate exercise areas but are content when housed in roomy primary enclosures. However, some kennels also provide “play areas” for those cats that appear to enjoy the additional space. Whether or not your kennel provides such play areas, your cat’s primary enclosure should be large enough to permit stretching and moving around and should contain a regularly cleaned litter box.

8. Additional services: Many pet owners find it convenient to schedule grooming, bathing, or training for their pets while they are in the kennel for boarding. Ask if such services are available. If you are in the process of moving, the kennel may even be able to take care of shipping your pet. Such a service can save you time and trouble and helps ensure the safety of your pet.

As a customer, you are entitled to be treated in a friendly, business-like manner. Furthermore, a kennel’s customer-handling practices are a reflection of their awareness of their responsibilities to you, the customer, and to themselves as professionals.

1. Personnel: Kennel’s work is physically demanding and difficult. Nevertheless, kennel personnel should appear clean and neat. They should also demonstrate a high level of understanding and concern for your pet through their questions, their animal handling techniques, and their attitude.

3. Rates: Rates should be available in the kennel office. Be sure that you understand the method of calculating boarding charges. Some kennels have a checkout time, after which you are charged an additional day. Others charge by the night or day.

4. Boarding agreement or contract: Your kennel should have some type of boarding agreement that clearly states your rights and the kennel’s responsibilities. This type of form protects you and the kennel from any misunderstandings in these areas.

5. Hours of operation: Days and hours of business should be clearly posted. If your kennel is closed on weekends or holidays, note and respect that policy. On those days all pets are fed and exercised and the facilities are cleaned and maintained, but the kennel office is closed and there is no one in the office to meet customers.

6. ABKA Membership Certificate: Your kennel’s membership in ABKA is a public commitment to ethical practices, and is your assurance that the kennel is subject to the ABKA Ethics Program. As a pet owner patronizing an ABKA kennel, you also can call on the ABKA for information and assistance should you experience a problem with a member kennel. If the kennel also displays an ABKA accreditation certificate, you can be assured that they have met the stringent standards of the Voluntary Facilities Accreditation Program, which inspects over 200 areas of kennel operation. The ABKA Code of Ethics and the Bill of Rights for Boarded Pets should also be posted in your kennel’s office for your inspection. It is a public statement of the standards by which your kennel should be judged.

Using the information listed above, you have now located, evaluated, and selected your boarding kennel, and have completed most of the steps necessary for successful boarding. However, there is still one thing required to assure that your pet receives the best care possible, and that is that you fulfill your part of the boarding. Even the best kennel in the world cannot take proper care of your pet unless you assist them by observing the following recommendations …

1. Make your reservations early: Most kennels are booked up on holidays and during vacation times. If you wait until the last minute to make your reservations, you may be disappointed. As you make your reservations, verify those items which you should bring with you to the kennel (immunization records, special food, medication, bedding, and toys). Make arrangements for any special services you wish to have performed while your pet is in the kennel (grooming, training, or shipping). As you make your reservations, find out what type of payment arrangements are acceptable (credit cards, personal checks, money orders).

2. Prepare your pet for boarding: Remember that pets, like people, usually appreciate a vacation in new surroundings with new friends. Dogs, once they become familiar with their new surroundings, have a marvelous, exciting time, almost like kids at summer camp. (If your dog has never been boarded before, you might consider short, overnight stays at the kennel prior to an extended boarding stay to help him or she get used to boarding. Every time you return, your dog is less likely to be affected by “separation anxiety” and can enjoy boarding more.) As a rule, kittens take to boarding easily and have a wonderful time. Adult cats usually display a very nonchalant attitude towards boarding and prefer to sit quietly and observe the daily kennel routine. They don’t seem inclined to make new feline friends or participate in group play, but seem content to rest, eat, make friends with the help, and purr. Make sure that all immunizations are current (and have immunization records, if your kennel requires them). Don’t overfeed your pet right before going to the kennel. The extra food is not really necessary and the result might be an upset stomach. Finally, because pets sense and reflect our emotions, DO NOT allow any member of the family to stage an emotional “farewell” scene. Your pets can be made to feel unnecessarily anxious about the kennel visit if they are subjected to this kind of dramatic display.

3. Check in during business hours: Bring all agreed-upon medications, etc. Make sure that medications list the prescription number and name of the pharmacy so the kennel can obtain a refill if your return is unexpectedly delayed. Allow enough time in the kennel office to fill out the necessary paperwork. The kennel needs to know such things as name, address, phone number, return date, additional services requested, where you can be reached in case of an emergency, the name of a local contact, your veterinarian’s name, and phone number, special feeding instructions (if any), medication instructions, etc. If your pet has any special problems that are not covered on the check-in forms, such as fear of thunder, epilepsy, or deafness, point them out to your kennel operator. All of this information helps your kennel take better care of your pet, especially if there is any type of emergency requiring special action. And this is what professional care is all about. Anyone can feed your pet, as long as nothing goes wrong. But what you want for your pet is supervision by someone who can assess and respond properly to emergencies. Don’t be surprised if your kennel operator asks you to leave your dog in the kennel office rather than allowing you to place your dog in his run. This is done so that your dog will see you leave and will realize that you have entrusted him or her to the care of the kennel operator. It also eliminates the possibility of your dog getting the erroneous impression that you are placing him in the run to “guard” it. When dogs get that impression, they sometimes become aggressive.

4. Relax and enjoy your trip: Remember that you are leaving your pet in the hands of capable professionals. Pets in the kennel probably receive more care and attention than they would at home.

1. Pick up your pet during the kennel’s normal business hours: Attempting to conduct business after hours is not only an imposition on the kennel operator and possible disruption of sleep for the boarding animals but can also result in a wasted trip to the kennel (because all personnel may be working in the kennel area and unable to hear the doorbell). For these reasons, many kennels assess an additional charge for after-hours pickup to discourage the practice.

2. Ask about your pet’s stay at the kennel: Did your pet adapt well to kennel food, routine, and environment? Did he or she display any unusual behavior or require any special handling? This information will be entered into the kennel’s records to assist kennel personnel in caring for your pet during the next stay, but you should also be aware of it in the event that you move or use the services of another kennel in the future.

3. Do not feed or water your dog for at least four hours after returning home: Cats adapt to their return home with the same easy acceptance with which they adapt to boarding, but dogs can become very excited when you return. And when dogs become excited, they tend to gulp food and water, which frequently triggers vomiting and/or diarrhea. Even if you normally provide unlimited access to either food or water, do not do so immediately after returning home. If your dog appears to be thirsty, provide a few ice cubes rather than water. Let him or her calm down for about four hours before offering food.

4. Contact your kennel operator if you have any questions about your pet’s behavior after returning home: Sometimes pet owners become unnecessarily concerned about their dogs’ behavior, which is completely normal. (For example, many dogs tend to sleep almost continuously for a day or two after returning home. This is usually a result of being back in a relatively calm environment after the excitement of the kennel). However, if you observe anything that appears to be out of the ordinary, contact your boarding kennel operator to discuss your observations. Your ABKA kennel operator wants you to understand the boarding process and your pet’s reaction to it and will be happy to discuss any questions you might have.