gas oven safety valve troubleshooting price

If you"re in need of a repair job, you can expect to pay between $100 and $600 depending on the type of unit you have. The price varies widely, particularly depending on whether you have an electric or a gas based appliance. Some units are inexpensive to fix, while others suffer from different faults and problems. For example, a gas oven could have a leak, while an electric one may have wiring issues. The table below shows common types and average cost to fix each.

Electric oven repairs are priced between $100 and $200. These are very popular because of their ease of use and relative safety when compared to gas alternatives. They also tend to be the cheapest to fix and maintain, offering a cost-effective option for those who want to keep their repair bills to a minimum. Troubleshooting with a service person may allow you to easily and simply fix the issue, but if the fix isn’t simple, it is a good idea to rely on the help of a service person.

Gas oven repairs range from $100 to $600. Gas appliances are often more expensive to fix than electric models, and there are more risks associated with them due to the dangers of gas leaks and fires. So, it is strongly recommended to call a professional and not attempt to do the work on your own. It is good to at least try to fix the appliance first because it may be something as simple as a bad sensor or faulty ignitor.

Pizza oven repairs are priced between $150 and $600. They are designed primarily to cook pizzas, offering a crispy crust and evenly-cooked pie. They vary in size and complexity, with gas models, electric models, and even wood-fueled models, which means that repairs vary. They are designed to last between 10 and 25 years, so if it has been less than this amount of time, it is a good idea to troubleshoot and fix the problem.

Steam oven repair costs range from $200 to $600. They are among the most expensive types to buy and can be quite costly to fix. These are growing in popularity due to their health and efficiency advantages. Using steam to cook meats and veggies retains moisture and tenderness in your ingredients. If your steam appliance is not working properly, the chances are that there is a problem with the water tank or the water line that needs to be fixed to get it working again.

If a professional determines that a repair is needed, you may spend $100 to $300 to fix the problem. Ovens suffer from a range of faults and failures and have various components that may need repairing due to damage or general wear and tear. The price of repairs is affected by the type of work that needs to be done. The table below shows common repairing jobs and average costs for each.

The average cost of oven fan repair is $100 to $200, which is important because the fan circulates hot air to maintain hot temperatures for cooking food. Also, an efficient oven fan means you can cook food at lower temperatures in modern conventional ovens. A faulty motor may stop the oven fan from spinning. If the fan is making a lot of noise and not circulating heat properly, this is another sign repairs are needed. Often, this problem is caused by worn bearings, so the fan motor needs to be repaired or replaced.

Thermostat repairs are priced between $100 and $200. The thermostat regulates the temperature, and if your oven it is not heating properly, it may be because of the thermostat. Sometimes, you may find that the thermostat may not need to be replaced but simply needs an adjustment to get it working again. Locating the temperature sensor and adjusting it according to the instruction manual may solve the thermostat problem before calling a repair person.

Door repairs range from $100 to $250, depending on the door type and size and the nature of the job. Sometimes, doors have hinge or lock issues that prevent them from closing or opening smoothly. Other issues could be with springs or broken latches that need to be replaced. Trying to run an oven without a properly closed door can be very dangerous and inefficient. To fix a door, a handyman may need to alter its position, clean the hinges, or add a new locking mechanism.

Paint repairs or touch-ups are priced between $100 and $250. Over time, the paint can crack, peel, or fade away, leaving the appliance looking old. This impacts the overall aesthetic of your kitchen. You shouldn’t have to replace an entire appliance due to minor decor issues. A professional needs to use a special heat-resistant paint to freshen up the oven’s look, and they usually need to clean and sand parts of it as well.

Most oven glass repairs cost between $100 and $300. This problem should be treated with priority to ensure you can safely use the oven. Glass damage may be caused by something hard hitting the glass or pushing the oven rack in with the door. These things cause weakness and failure in a glass oven door over time, and then the shattered glass needs to be removed and replaced with a fresh piece of glass.

Igniter repairs are priced from $150 to $250 on average. These components are only found in gas units and ignite the gas to provide heat. Having a faulty igniter won’t only keep your appliance from working properly but can also be hazardous, causing gas leaks. Igniters sometimes stop working if they become dirty from grease and food particles, so they need to be carefully cleaned. You may have an igniter problem if you open your broiler door while the oven is on, and the glow bar is not getting voltage.

If you need to repair an oven heating element, expect to pay between $150 and $400. The heating element is key to electric ovens as it generates heat for broiling and baking. Electric current passes through the element and warms the oven. If this part is damaged or worn, it can cause issues such as sparking or dirty ovens. Other signs that you may need heating element repair is if the element does not glow bright orange when the oven is on or if your food is not cooking all the way through.

If a part of your oven needs to be replaced, expect to pay between $100 and $600. In some cases, repairs may not be possible for individual components, or it might just be simpler or cheaper to have the parts replaced entirely, rather than trying to fix the old ones. The price of replacing parts varies based on the type of part, and there are many different components to modern appliances. The table below shows common parts and their average replacement costs.

Door switch replacements is priced between $100 and $200. The door switch plays a key role in and ovens functioning. It detects whether the door is closed and may also control the light. If the switch is broken, it might not detect when the door is closed, preventing the whole thing from working properly. To replace a switch, a repairman usually has to unscrew the top panel to access the old switch and install the new one.

Gas valve repairs range from $100 to $200. The gas valve, also known as the safety valve, is the part responsible for controlling the release of gas. It keeps you safe by only allowing gas to pass through when the igniter has reached the correct temperature for ignition. Therefore, a broken valve can be very dangerous and lead to life-threatening situations. The back panel usually needs to be removed to access this valve.

Temperature sensor replacements are priced between $100 and $250 each. The temperature sensor plays a big part in the functioning of ovens, detecting the temperature and informing the control board of this data. A faulty sensor can lead to issues with temperature and heating processes, causing it to run too hot or too cold. The back panel needs to be removed to access the sensor.

Gasket replacements cost between $100 and $250 each. The gasket, or door gasket, of your appliance is used to seal the door to prevent heat loss. If your appliance is cooking unevenly or is losing heat through the door, the gasket might be cracked or damaged and needs replacing. Gaskets usually need to be unclipped or unscrewed, the channels in the door need to be cleaned, and then the new one needs to be screwed in.

If you need your fan replaced, it will cost between $100 and $275. Some units have fans located on the back inside panel that heat it up faster by spreading warm air around faster than traditional ovens which use still air. If the fan stops working, the unit can overheat and break down completely. To replace the fan, a professional needs to unscrew some sections to access the fan area, detach the existing fan, and fit the new one in place.

If your door glass is damaged, expect to pay between $100 and $300 to replace it. Although the glass on most ovens is tempered, which means it is a stronger type of glass, it can still crack or shatter. Cracks within the glass can make it difficult or nearly impossible to cook food at a steady temperature; therefore, the door should be replaced. The door first needs to be taken off, and the inner panel needs to be unscrewed to access the glass panel.

Heating element replacement pricing ranges from $150 to $400, depending on the type of appliance and the element needed. Also known as an oven coil, the heating element should glow bright orange if it is working properly. However, if it is broken, the element won’t glow properly, nor will your oven heat up. In fact, using a defective heating element may cause a spark that could blow fuses or cause other hazards. To replace it, a handyman will remove the screws around the current element, remove it and insert the new element, attach the wires correctly, and secure it in place. Keep in mind the oven coil replacement cost increases if your handyman says both elements on the top and the bottom of the appliance need to be replaced.

Fixing problems usually end up costing between $100 and $600. You might not know exactly which part needs fixing. Instead, you may simply notice that the unit takes a long time to reach the desired temperature, the door becomes stuck, or the fan stops spinning like it used to. If you suspect your oven has an issue, call a professional to diagnose the problem. The table below shows common problems and the average repair costs associated with them.

If your oven makes a lot of noise, expect to pay between $100 and $275 to have it fixed. The most common cause of excess noise is the fan or fan motor. One of the fan blades may be warped, the fan might need to be replaced, or the motor could be dying and causing issues with the fan’s functionality. Your appliance may also make noise because the timer is broken, or a panel may have loosened.

Repairing a slow-heating oven ranges from $100 to $600. There are a few possible problems to consider when a unit is slow to heat. It might be because the temperature sensor or thermostat is not working correctly, or it could be an issue with the heating element or even the control board. Since this symptom has many causes, the price of repairs varies, depending on the nature of the fault.

If the fan in your convection oven stops working, expect to pay between $100 and $600 to have it repaired. The price of repair for this issue can be low or expensive, depending on what’s wrong. For instance, replacing a fan won’t be as costly as replacing a control board that is causing the fan not to operate properly. You will know that the problem with your appliance is with the convection if it is taking longer than usual to heat up or you hear strange sounds with the fan.

Fixing self-cleaning ovens is priced between $100 and $600. Many modern options come with self-cleaning features, saving you time and effort, but these features are subject to mishaps. If your appliance stops self cleaning, it could be a fault with the control board, which may be expensive to fix or replace. However, it could be something simpler like a door switch issue.

Gas ovens that keep clicking can be repaired for around $200 to $350 on average. This issue is usually caused by a problem with the igniter because igniters make a clicking sound when sparking. This clicking sound can be caused by something as simple as a build up of food or moisture in the igniter or as severe as a damaged spark electrode. If the igniter is repeatedly clicking, it has some kind of fault and needs to be repaired or replaced by a professional.

Fixing an oven requires assistance from an appliance repair company. Professionals know the safety requirements for working on appliances. This is especially important with gas stoves.The Department of Homeland Security recommends turning the gas off in the home when an appliance is not working correctly. Natural gas should only be turned back on by a professional. Appliance repair shops are usually located around residential neighborhoods.

The price to fix an oven ranges from $150 to $400. If you want a new one, you are looking at paying between $600 to $1,600 if you are installing the same type (electric or gas) and $750 to $2,700 if you are installing a different type. Estimating the cost of repairs helps determine if you should fix or replace the appliance. If the total for labor and parts is more than half the retail cost of the appliance, then consider a replacement. If it has broken down repeatedly in the last year and you have paid for multiple service calls, this is a red flag and indicates the need for a newer model.

Additional Considerations and CostsLicense. Check for any permits or licenses needed for repairs and installations. If electrical work or gas piping is needed, the job may require a permit.

Certified technicians. Choose a certified technician whenever possible. Certification confirms that the technician has completed the appropriate training to work on ovens. Organizations like the International Society of Certified Electronics Technicians (ISCET) offer certifications for appliance repair.

Home warranty. Oven repairs might be covered by your home warranty, so make sure you check your contract. Instead of paying the price of the repair or replacement, you may need to pay a minimal service charge for the service, which usually averages $100.

Consider a new one. These appliances have an average lifespan of 10 to 15 years. For complex repairs, it may make more financial sense to replace older models. Additionally, it may be difficult to find replacement parts for antique and pre-2000 ovens.

Fixing an appliance is worth it if you can get a few more years out of it, and the price of fixing it is less than replacing it with a new one.Is it cheaper to fix an oven or buy a new one?

It may be cheaper to fix it depending on a couple of factors: the age of the appliance and the part that needs to be fixed. If yours is older than 15 years and the part that needs to be fixed is very costly, it may be best to get a new one.Can an electric oven be repaired?

Electric ovens can be repaired in many cases. Most often, they simply need a single replacement part to become operational again.What is the lifespan of an oven?

Fixing it can be as simple as replacing the door or as complex as replacing the control board. Hire a professional for all repairs due to safety risks.

Pilot ignition systems use a flame sensing element to sense whether the pilot is lit and the safety valve can open. The sensing element sits right in the pilot flame.

Just exactly where the sensor sits in the pilot flame is important. (See figure 6-A) If the sensing bulb is not in the right part of the flame, or if the pilot is adjusted too low or too high, it will not get hot enough and the safety valve will not open.

When two dissimilar metals (for example, copper and steel) are bonded together electrically, and then heated, they generate a tiny electrical current between them. The voltage is very small, measured in millivolts. This is the basis for a millivolt oven ignitor system. All that"s needed is a safety valve that will sense this tiny voltage and open the valve if it is present. If the pilot is out, there is no millivoltage and the safety valve will not open. See figure 6-B.

If the burner in a millivolt system will not start, typically the problem is the gas valve. Occasionally the problem might be the pilot generator or thermostat. The thermostat in these is just a temperature-sensitive on/off switch. To test, turn it on and test for continuity.

If that doesn"t work, we have a minor dilemma in determining whether the problem is the pilot generator or the safety valve. The dilemma here is that the voltages are too small to be measured with standard equipment. VOM millivolt adaptors cost nearly as much as the pilot generator itself. And the safety valve, which is usually the problem, costs twice as much as the pilot generator. So usually you just replace either or both of them. But don"t forget they are electrical parts, which are non-returnable. What I recommend is just to replace the gas valve first; that usually will solve the problem. If not, replace the pilot generator. You just ate a gas valve, but trust me, you"d have bought one sooner or later anyway.

When installing the pilot generator, screw it into the safety valve finger tight, plus 1/4 turn. Any tighter than that and you can damage the electrical contacts on the valve.

In some systems the sensor is a liquid-filled bulb, with a capillary to the safety valve or flame switch. When the liquid inside heats up, it expands and exerts pressure on a diaphragm, which opens the valve or closes the switch.

It is important to know that these sensor bulbs do not cycle the burner on and off to maintain oven temperature. That is the thermostat"s function. It has a sensor bulb too, but it senses oven temperature, not pilot flame. The only function of these pilot sensing elements is to prevent gas flow to the burner if the bulb does not get hot enough to assure burner ignition.

In flame switch systems, hydraulic pressure from the capillary physically closes the switch, which completes an electrical circuit to the safety valve. The safety valve is electrical and operates on 110 volts. See Figure 6-D. If the pilot is out, the flame switch does not close and the 110 volt heating circuit is not complete, so the safety valve will not open.

Some of these direct-pressure (hydraulic) systems use a two-level pilot. The pilot stays at a very low level; not even high enough to activate the safety valve. This is called the constant pilot, or primary pilot. Gas for the primary pilot may come from either the thermostat or directly from the gas manifold.

When the thermostat valve is turned on, the pilot flame gets bigger, heating the sensor bulb, which activates the safety valve (hydraulically) and the burner ignites. This is called the heater pilot, or secondary pilot. Gas for the secondary pilot comes from the oven thermostat itself.

When the gas oven reaches the correct temperature setting, the thermostat drops the pilot flame back to the lower level, the safety valve closes and the burner shuts off. See figure 6-E.

If you do have a good strong pilot that engulfs the pilot sensing bulb with flame, then odds are that the sensing element and/or whatever it is attached to are defective. If it is a flame switch, replace the flame switch. If it is a safety valve replace that.

In a two-level pilot system, remember that the main oven thermostat supplies the secondary pilot with gas. So if you cannot get a good secondary pilot the problem may be the pilot assembly, or it may be the thermostat. If you do get a good secondary pilot, you"re back to the sensing bulb and safety valve.

Spark ignition systems use a spark module to generate a pulsing, high-voltage spark to ignite the gas. The spark module is an electronic device that produces 2-4 high-voltage electrical pulses per second. These pulses are at very low amperage, measured in milliamps, so the risk of shock is virtually nil. But the voltage is high enough to jump an air gap and ignite gas. The spark ignition module is usually located either under the cooktop or inside the back of the stove. The same module is used for both the surface burner ignition and the oven burner ignition.

However, the spark is not certain enough to light the oven burner, and the gas flow is too high, to rely on the spark alone. Remember, in an oven, before the safety valve opens, you need to be assured of ignition. So the spark ignites a low-gasflow pilot, and then the safety valve opens only when the pilot is lit.

This is the same two-level pilot system described in section 6-2(b), with a few important exceptions. The constant or primary pilot does not stay lit when the oven thermostat is turned off. It does, however, stay lit the whole time the oven thermostat is turned on.

When the gas oven is turned on, a switch mounted to the oven thermostat stem signals the spark module. These are the same switches as shown in section 5-3.

When the thermostat calls for more heat in the oven, the heater or secondary pilot increases the size of the pilot flame, which heats the sensing bulb, which opens the safety valve and kicks on the burner.

Yup, this ol" boy"s got it all. Spark ignition, a pilot, a flame switch and TWO - count "em - TWO safety valves; one for the pilot and one for the burner. (Figure 6-H)

The operation is actually simpler than the diagram looks. When you turn on the oven thermostat, a cam on the thermostat hub closes the pilot valve switch. This opens the 110 volt pilot safety valve and energizes the spark module, igniting the pilot. As in the other spark system, the pilot flame provides a path that drains off the spark current, so the ignitor stops sparking while the pilot is lit. As long as the oven thermostat is turned on, the pilot valve switch stays closed, so the pilot valve stays open and the pilot stays lit.

When the pilot heats the pilot sensing element of the flame switch, the flame switch closes. This completes the 110 volt circuit to the oven safety valve, so the valve opens and the burner ignites.

When the oven temperature reaches the set point of the thermostat, the thermostat switch opens, breaking the circuit and closing the oven safety valve, and shutting off the burner.

Now that you know how the system works, first look to see what is not working. When the oven thermostat is on, and there isn"t a pilot flame, is the electrode sparking? Is there spark, but no primary pilot? Is the primary pilot igniting, but not the secondary? Is there sparking after the thermostat is shut off?

(The pilot may or may not light, but the main burner is not lighting) Remember that the thermostat supplies the pilot with gas in these ovens, and only when the thermostat is on. So if you don"t have a primary and secondary pilot flame, odds are the problem is the pilot orifice or oven thermostat. Try cleaning the pilot assembly and sensor bulb as described in section 6-5. If that doesn"t work, adjust the secondary flame a little higher. If that doesn"t work, replace the pilot assembly.

If you do have a good strong secondary pilot that engulfs the pilot sensing bulb with flame, then odds are that the oven safety valve (or flame switch, whichever is attached to the pilot sensing bulb in your system) is defective. Replace the defective component.

Something is wrong with the high-voltage sparking system. If you are in a hurry to use your oven, you can turn on the oven thermostat, carefully ignite the primary pilot with a match and use the oven for now; but remember that the minute you turn off the thermostat, the pilot goes out.

Are the cooktop ignitors sparking? If so, the spark module is probably OK. What typically goes wrong with the sparking system is that the rotary switch on the valve stops working. Test continuity as described in section 5-3(a). If that isn"t the problem, check the electrode for damage and proper adjustment. The spark target (the nearest metal to the electrode) should be about 1/8″ to 3/16″ away from it, (about the thickness of 2-3 dimes) and directly across the primary pilot orifice. Replace or adjust the electrode as appropriate. When replacing, make sure you get the right kind of electrode (there are several) and do not cut the electrode lead; follow it all the way back to the spark module and plug the new lead into the proper spark module terminal.

Trouble turning on your gas stove? If your igniter is glowing but there is no flame, then one of two components in your range are at fault. These components are the “safety valve” and the igniter itself.

Take a clamp-on type ammeter, and attach it to the circuit to determine whether the igniter is working efficiently enough to open the safety valve. Clamp your meter onto the wire that either goes to the bake burner igniter or the bake burner safety valve. Turn on the bake function, and see what current is drawn. Typically your meter will show 2.8 – 3.0 amps for a normal current draw for a working igniter. If your meter is showing 2.7 or lower then you can assume that the igniter is not drawing enough current to actually ignite the flame, and therefore it won’t open the oven safety valve to allow the gas to enter the burner chamber. If this happens, it’s time to replace the oven burner igniter.

To test the oven safety valve, measure between the two terminals, on the valve and look for continuity. The resistance here is low, but you should be able to detect 1 to 1.5 ohms. If your model uses a dual valve, one for the broil burner and one for the bake burner, then you will have two bi-metals and again you can test them for continuity using a multimeter. They also should be very low resistance and those would indicate that they"re normal working oven safety valves.

If after performing these tests, you"ve determined that you need to replace your gas range"s oven safety valves, oven igniter, burn igniter, or safety valves? Take a look at our large selection of oven parts.

When you turn the dial on your gas stovetop, it opens a valve that lets gas through. This gas is released and mixes with air. It is ignited by a continuous spark which comes from the spark module, and a blue flame is created.

When the electrode on your gas oven burner continues sparking after the gas has been lit, it usually is a sign of a short in the spark module. This usually happens when liquid (like water from an overflowing pot) gets into the spark module. To fix this, unplug your appliance and let the burner dry out. Turn it on again and test it to see if drying has fixed the problem.

If your spark module sends out a spark intermittently instead of sparking at a continuous pulse, it has probably worn out and most likely needs to be replaced. You can call a service technician or your home warranty company to get this repaired. This is not something that you should attempt to repair or replace yourself. Although the cost of the spark module really depends on the oven model the part can be found for anywhere between $30 to $250it"s a better deal to replace one spark module rather than replacing an entire oven. This is especially true if you have a home warranty plan, as the repair will generally only cost a small service call fee.

If you see any damage, call a registered technician or your home warranty company in order to get the electrode replaced. Sometimes, your electrode"s spark is being blocked by the top of the burner being slightly off. Make sure the burner is in the correct place for the electrode to reach the gas and light it before calling a repairman or your home warranty technician.

If you don’t see any cracks on the actual electrode, you can also turn each burner dial to see if there’s one that doesn’t spark. If all of your burners spark but one, there’s probably a problem with the dial. There are times when the dials can become stripped and won’t turn on the electrode. It’s also possible that the dial has shorted out because food or water has spilled into the burner. You can try to dry out the burner, and if that doesn"t work, the igniter wiring harness will need to be replaced. Paying to repair this part is much more cost effective than purchasing a new oven, as the parts range between $30 and $100. With a home warranty, you only pay a small service call fee for parts and labor to repair the igniter wiring harness as long as it"s failed from normal wear and tear.

There’s a chance that food or grease has plugged up the tube that releases gas to be lit by the burner. Turn your oven off and remove the burner from the oven. Clean out thesmall tube inside of the burner with a toothpick or small brush.

When you turn on your oven to bake (or broil) the dial sends electricity to the igniter, which begins to warm up. As the igniter warms, the safety valve releases gas into the oven burner tube. Once the gas reaches the igniter (which can get up to 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit) the gas is lit by the extremely hot metal on the igniter, and warms the oven. When the oven reaches the temperature you selected, the burner and igniter will shut off, but will turn on and off while you’re cooking to keep the correct temperature in the oven.

First, remove the shields so you can see the igniter. If the igniter is glowing, but there’s no flame after the igniter has been glowing for a longer period of time, theigniter has probably grown too old and can’t open the safety valve to bring gas into the burner tube. Call your home warranty company for diagnosis for this problem.

Oven problems can happen to any homeowner, but with some troubleshooting and a home warranty plan from Landmark Home Warranty, you can usually fix small issues or repair or replace the oven. If you"re interested in covering your oven with a home warranty plan, compare Landmark"s home warranty plans here, or download a brochure with our contract for your state here.

Frigidaire gas range oven safety valve. 3/8" inlet with 3/16" and 1/4" terminals. One of each size. 3203459, Y30128-35AF, 814412 ... More Info

Frigidaire gas range dual safety valve. 3/8" tubing inlet and lower outlet. Orifice hood upper outlet. The 5303208499 gas valve has the following numbers on the side: 0549A311962TNAT NC-4109-5 774111600012 Y-30172-2 ... It was made by Invens ... More Info

Exact Replacement Parts for Frigidaire gas range oven safety valve 3203459. 3/8" inlet with 3/16" and 1/4" terminals. One of each size. 3203459, Y30128-35AF, 814412 ... More Info

The kitchen is the heart of the home. It’s where families share dinner, gather together and pass down recipes. One of the worst things that can happen when preparing to cook an amazing meal for your family is to find out that your gas oven won’t light. Do you call a repairman or resort to the microwave?

A handy homeowner can troubleshoot the problem when a gas oven doesn’t light. A handful of common problems can plague gas ovens. Many are as simple as a loose connection, while others involve replacing important components. However, those simple repairs are less likely to cost you an arm and a leg. Before worrying about replacing your oven, see if one of these common issues is the cause of your oven problems.

You can check a handful of issues if your gas oven doesn’t light. From a simple power issue to a faulty gas igniter, here are a few common reasons your gas oven won’t work.

If your oven won’t heat and your gas burners won’t light, the problem might be as simple as a tripped circuit breaker. Even though you have a gas oven, it still needs electricity to run. Electricity powers the control board, igniter and temperature sensor, among other parts.

The oven should connect to a standard 15- or 20-amp switch inside your circuit breaker box. These are the single switches. Your oven may also have its own dedicated breaker switch. If not, you can check the power by testing the secondary outlet. The problem lies elsewhere if the outlet works but your gas oven does not.

While a rare occurrence, your gas oven may not heat because your gas supply is off — usually a result of maintenance repairs or replacements in the system. For example, if your oven or other gas-reliant appliance was recently repaired, the gas line is likely still turned off.

Like a thermostat, the temperature sensor regulates the oven temperature of your gas oven. It connects to the igniter switch. If the temperature sensor breaks, the oven will not light for safety reasons.

Troubleshooting and replacing this sensor is a fairly easy fix for a homeowner who is comfortable working on a gas oven. Unplug the oven from the wall.

The igniter controls the oven safety valve, also known as the gas valve. This oven component ensures only gas enters the oven when the igniter is hot enough to ignite it. This component stops working if there is not enough power to either the valve or the igniter. A handy homeowner can use a multimeter tool to test that the valve is working. Unplug your oven.

Use a multimeter tool on the RX1 setting and test the valve. Some brands use valves with terminals for both the broiler and the baking elements. Test both sets of terminals.

The igniter is the key component of a gas oven. If you have a faulty igniter, many of the other components will not work and the oven will not turn on. Oven igniters glow hot to ignite the natural gas released by the oven safety valve. However, if the heating element is not working, the gas valve will not trigger and the oven will not ignite.

To check the gas igniter: Turn off the circuit to the oven and confirm the power is off by checking that the oven light, clock and control board are all off.

If nothing looks wrong with the part, plug the oven back in and watch to see if the igniter glows after turning on the oven. If it does not glow orange, replace it.

Replacing a faulty gas oven igniter is a moderately easy DIY appliance repair. Estimated costs are between $40 and $80, depending on the cost of a replacement igniter. If you have a newer oven, check any manufacturer warranties before making any repairs.

While a homeowner can do this project, ensure you take every safety precaution before attempting. Turn off the oven’s gas supply and disconnect the appliance from the outlet. Remember to take precautions if you smell gas (even after you have turned off the supply to the oven). Turn off the main gas supply to your home, open windows for ventilation, and call an appliance technician for assistance.

To ensure you have the correct replacement igniter, have your oven model number and serial number. A Kenmore oven might not use the same part as a Whirlpool oven. These numbers are often found inside the oven door or drawer, depending on the brand of oven.

Turn off all power to your oven. Ensure the power is off by checking that the light, control board and clock are off. Then remove the oven racks. Next, unscrew the base plate and remove it from the oven. You will find the igniter underneath.

Take a reference photo before removing the old gas igniter. Install the new igniter in the same way. Be very careful with the new igniter because it is very fragile. Unplug the two wires or the wire harness from the igniter.

While your gas stove and gas oven are part of the same appliance, they do not use the same parts and components. This is why your gas burners can work while your gas oven won’t light. Your gas range has its own set of igniters, gas valves and safety features. If everything is in working order, your range can work independently of your gas oven.

Appliance repairs are always a big inconvenience and can sometimes cost an arm and a leg. Don’t get stuck without your most important appliances. Check out the Cinch Home Services warranty plan that cover appliances, including both gas and electric ovens. With three different options to choose from, you can find the right plan for your home.

Most modern appliances have safety features built in, but your gas oven safety valve is arguably the most important. If an electrical appliance malfunctions, it can cause a fire, but a misfiring gas oven could potentially blow up your house. You don"t ​really​ need to know how the safety mechanism works to use your oven, but you may find that it gives you some extra peace of mind.

Broadly speaking, there are two ways a built-in safety mechanism can work. One option is that it remains "open" by default and to shut off if certain conditions are met. That"s how fuses and circuit breakers work in an electrical circuit: Ordinarily, the electricity is free to flow, but if the current grows too large, the fuse or breaker will blow and cut off the circulation of electricity.

The other option is for your safety mechanism to be "closed" by default and allow a device to operate only when the correct conditions are met. That"s how a gas oven safety valve works. Gas ordinarily is prevented from flowing, and if the valve is working correctly, it opens only when you want to light your oven.

Many gas stoves use what"s called a "hot surface igniter," a bar or element (similar to the ones on your stovetop) that gets hot enough to ignite the gas on contact. Gas oven safety valves on stoves with this type of ignition system take a couple of different approaches.

In one approach, a bimetallic strip operates the valve. It harnesses a simple scientific principle: Metals expand and contract at different rates when they"re heated and cooled. If you bond two suitable metals together in one strip, that strip will flex to a predictable degree as the temperature goes up and down. Wall-mount thermostats often use this principle, as do analog oven thermometers and the thermometer in the lid of your gas grill.

As appliance-repair website PartSelect explains, turning on your gas oven causes electricity to flow into the heating element of your hot surface igniter. As the igniter heats up, it warms a bimetallic strip inside your gas oven safety valve. When the igniter reaches its operating temperature, the bimetallic strip opens the valve and allows the gas to flow, igniting as it crosses the heated surface.

According to heating-equipment vendor Anglo Nordic, gas oven safety valves use a variation of that principle to operate. In these stoves, the flow of electrical current through the hot surface igniter becomes the control mechanism. The igniter"s bar is made of a material that offers less and less resistance to electricity as it heats. When it reaches the temperature required to ignite the gas, its resistance becomes low enough to trip the safety valve and open the flow of gas.

More modern ranges use an electrical igniter. When you turn on your oven, the gas begins flowing immediately, and it sends an electrical current to a piezo electric igniter. The current makes the igniter spark (like the manual igniter on your gas grill) and lights the oven"s burner. In this case, the safety valve works in the opposite way: An electronic sensor checks for the heat caused by ignition after a few seconds, and if it"s absent, it will close the valve and shut off the flow of gas.

It"s worth pointing out that not all gas ovens have a safety valve in the conventional sense. Older stoves simply use a pilot light, a small but constant flow of gas, which, in turn, feeds a small, candle-like flame. You essentially ​are​ the safety mechanism in this system: It"s up to you to check that the pilot is lit. When you turn on the gas manually, the small pilot flame ignites the main flame. It"s a mechanically simple system, which makes it durable, and for that reason, you"ll still see it used on commercial restaurant ranges, which must stand up to decades of heavy use.

Low voltage, oven safety valve with female wire terminals for a flat ignitor. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

3/8" Oven safety valve with male wire terminals for a flat ignitor. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

3/8" inlet Oven safety valve. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

Dual terminal Oven safety valve. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

On a newer gas oven, the burners release and set fire to the gas via an igniter called the hot surface igniter. The ignitor is a very fragile thing, whether it’s the round or the flat type. It works like a chain reaction: turning on the oven sends electricity to the igniter, causing it to heat red-hot. This makes the two metals in the oven safety valve contort enough to open the valve and set the gas aflame. This chain reaction takes about 60 seconds in a working oven. And a persistently cold oven could be the result of any break along the chain. A burner that won’t light could be connected to an igniter with no power coming into its circuit. Have a repairperson check the circuit for electricity, since this is a live voltage check. If there is indeed power coming to the igniter, and it is open circuit, a multi-meter can be used to run a continuity check. It may be that, while the igniter is glowing, it’s still insufficiently hot to open the valve: this can be checked by your repairperson with an amp meter. A defective igniter can’t be repaired: replacement is the only option.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

Dual gas safety valve assembly. The gas oven safety valve works with the oven igniter to provide gas to the burner. If the safety valve fails, the oven won’t heat. Since safety valves rarely fail, be sure to check more commonly defective parts before replacing the safety valve.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

Sometimes your electric appliances will fail to work when you least expect it. One of these machines is the oven, and its repair could cost you between $100 and $200. If you’re the DIY type of person, the first thing to do is to find out where the problem lies.

If the igniter can’t draw a current to the safety valve, it won’t heat the gas burner. To troubleshoot the igniter, remove the gas covers and check if it glows. If it does, it could mean that it has become weak and cannot draw enough current.

The safety valve is the section that controls the passage of gas to the burners. It works by responding to heat generated by the igniter. Upon sensing the amps, the valve opens up to allow gas to pass through.

If your gas range fails to heat, you might be able to identify the problem on your own. For a long-lasting solution, consider engaging a professional in fixing the problem. At Appliance Repair Specialist, we’ll give you repair solutions tailored to the model of your oven. Just contact us to schedule a service or ask any question.