hot water tank safety valve leaking manufacturer

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

If an expansion tank is already installed and there is still a problem with excessive pressure, you have a problem with the expansion tank. I’ll talk about expansion tanks in next week’s blog post.

This article explains hot water thermal expansion that can cause leaks, drips, or discharges from pressure relief valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, or TP valves found on heating boilers, water heaters.

Watch out: a dripping or frequently spilling T&P valve is dangerous because those very leaks can eventually cause the valve to clog and then to fail to open when it should.

See HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE - for an explanation of just how much pressure increase to expect when heating water. In explaining why the relief valve on a water heater may be dripping, American Water Heater Co. [1] explains:

Note: While a 125 psi pressure relief valve on cold water supply piping is fine to protect piping from rupturing, if building incoming water pressures are too high, rather than relying just on a relief valve (wasting water) we prefer to install a pressure reducing/control valve at the building entering water supply piping. Limit incoming water pressure to 60 psi at a typical one or two story residential home.

Watts (2011) suggests two methods for testing for thermal expansion of hot water as the cause of a TP valve drip. The text below is adapted from that source.

If the TPR valve is leaking due to thermal expansion of hot water, simply opening a water faucet or fixture anywhere in the plumbing system will immediately stop the drip.

That"s because opening the hot water faucet reduces the system pressure back to normal operating levels - we are no longer heating water in a "closed" piping and tank system.

Why would opening either a hot or cold water faucet work? Because when no water is running, the entire plumbing system is "closed" - unless there is an expansion tank already installed on the hot water heating system to accommodate thermal expansion, heating water in the water cylinder (water heater for Yanks) causes an increase in system pressure.

Install a pressure gauge on a convenient hose bib such as at the washing machine hook-up or if weather permits, outdoors. Install & use the pressure gauge to monitor system water pressure over at least a full 24-hour period. You don"t have to sleep by it.

If you select a pressure gauge with a re-settable "telltale" needle, the gauge"s re-settable indicator will indicate the highest pressure that has been reached by the water system since the water pressure test gauge was installed.

SeeMEASURE WATER SYSTEM PRESSURE & PRESSURE MAXIMUM for tips on how to make or buy an inexpensive recording-type water pressure test gauge for this purpose.

where we describe both hot water expansion tanks and hot water expansion relief valves designed to handle thermal water pressure increases and thus to stop dripping TP valves.

Watch out: get advice from a licensed plumber and your local water supplier. Never remove or plug a leaky pressure/temperature relief valve on a water heater - doing so risks dangerous or even fatal

See RELIEF VALVE LEAK DUE TO EXPANSION TANK where in a series of steps a homeowner figures out that a leaky TPR valve is due to the failure of the internal bladder of an expansion tank attached to the boiler.

If the building water pressure gauge reading is ever found at 80 psi or higher, you will want to install a water pressure regulator at the point where water supply enters the building.

If your building already has a water pressure gauge installed, it may be defective or it may be set too high. The articles listed just below discuss how to adjust a water pressure regulator:

An alternative to installing or changing a water pressure regulator when building water pressure is occasionally 80 psi or higher is the installation of an expansion tank to temporarily absorb that pressure increase.

Proper use of an expansion tank can help avoid unnecessary opening of the pressure/temperature relief valve on a hot water heating tank or a hot water heating boiler.

You go through alot of effort to explain how heated water expands and the resulting increase in pressure. All that is well and good for theory. In a domestic (North American) water supply system, to the best of my knowlege there is nothing to prevent the expanding water/pressure from the hot water heater from just backing up into the supply plumbing and hence the water pressure in the hot water heater would NEVER exceed the supply pressure. Or is there a required one way valve somewhere in the system I am not aware of say in the hot water heater?

Domestic water systems in most cities are required to have a backflow preventer or check valve on the system. So when no water is being run the system is in effect closed.

My original interest and intent was to show that the actual expansion in volume from heating water is actually very small. Nevertheless, on some systems, the water heater can cause enough of a pressure increase that some installations include a small water heater expansion tank.

Where expanding hot water pressure is causing trouble the common solution is the installation of a small expansion tank, usually on the hot water supply line above the water heater, though it could go almost anywhere so long as it"s not isolated from the heater by a shutoff valve.

Thermal expansion occurs as domestic water is heated. Left unchecked, the resulting pressure increase can cause relief valve discharge and other potentially hazardous conditions. Therm-X-Trol® expansion tanks absorb this expanded water, keeping water pressure at a safe level.

Water heater manufacturers and plumbing codes require the installation of an expansion control device if a backflow preventor, pressure reducing valve or check valve is installed in the domestic supply line.

Watch out: a leaky relief valve on a water heater, heating boiler, or any other closed vessel is dangerous. Leaks ultimately can lead to relief valve clogging, failure, and worse, BLEVE EXPLOSIONS. Beginning at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS we describe all of the causes of and cures for leaky relief valves or TP valves.

ANSI BS 7074-1:1989, Application, selection and installation of expansion vessels and ancillary equipment for sealed water systems. Code of practice for domestic heating and hot water supply (British Standard)

This standard covers the test methods and performance requirements applicable for waterheater supply shutoff valve with a thermal expansion control valves for use on closed plumbing systems.

This European Standard specifies, dimensions, materials and performance requirements (including methods of test) for expansion valves, of nominal sizes from DN 15 to DN 40, having working pressures 1) from 0,1 MPa (l bar) to 1,0 MPa (10 bar).Expansion valves are intended for fitting to the cold water supply of storage water heaters, having a maximum distribution temperature of 95 °C, for all energy sources.

Expansion valves do not control the temperature and alone does not constitute the protection required for storage water heaters. Expansion valves limit pressure, in the water heaters to what they are fitted, that is produced by thermal expansion of the water .NOTE : The use of the device specified in this Standard does not override the need to use controls (e.g. thermostats and cut-outs) which act directly on the power sources of water heaters.

"THERM-X-TROL® Water Heater Expansion Tanks", [web page] Amtrol,1400 Division Road, West Warwick RI USA 02983, Tel: 800-426-8765, Website: www.amtrol.com, retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/thermxtrol.html

"THERMAL EXPANSION TANKS for POTABLE WATER, Installation & Operation Instructions" [PDF], Models ST-5 through ST-201V & Models T-5 through T-12, Amtrol, Op. Cit., retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/thermxtrol/9015087_06_16_Thermal_Expansion_Tank_IO_.pdf

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

Similar products manufactured by Watts are described at WATER HEATER THERMAL EXPANSION PRODUCTS - WATTS [PDF] https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Watts-Thermal-Expansion-Products.pdf

My hot water tank has a Thermal Expansion Control Valve installed on the cold water intake line (rather than an expansion tank). In the past 2-3 days, I have noticed that there is a small amount of water constantly draining out of this Valve/Tube.

The leakage is constant, even during/after a long hot shower, which presumably would drain a lot of the hot water out of the tank and temporarily stop any thermal expansion/condensation. It is important to note that the T&P valve on the water heater itself is fine, there is no leak or release of pressure/water happening there.

(Why else would it still leak when the hot water tank is being drained and cold water is entering the tank?). Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this? I"m pretty sure I should be calling in for a repair, but unsure how urgent. (Am I at risk of a BLEVE explosion given the leak is constant, even when the tank should not be up to temp/pressure and even the pipe between the tank and the valve feels cold?).

It is possible on SOME water heaters to set the temperature above 210°F (99°C) but in my experience that would be unusual - you"d have probably scalded everyone using the hot water system.

1. It is already telling us that (usually) there is an unsafe condition such as pressure too high (water tank can blow up in a BLEVE explosion) or temperature too high (someone can be scalded - burned)

2. If it"s dripping just because the valve itself is old and defective the risk is that scale clogs the valve, it stops relieving, and then you"re missing a critical life-safety device.

the hot water heater has been shut down about one year , I lit the polite then went back a few hours later when I noticed the pressure relieve valve was spraying water out. so I shut the gas off. not sure what"s going on. ?

Continue reading at HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS for a solution to thermal expansion leaks at relief valves on water heaters, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1] "Residential Electric Water Heater Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide", American Water Heater Co., October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source: americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf [copy on file] [Technical review requested 1/25/2011]

[3] Pounds of lime deposited vs. temperature and hot water usage: see Purdue Bulletin #74 (also provided by A.O. Smith in the article below). Purdue"s chart shows the number of pounds of lime deposited per year as a function of the water usage in gallons per day, with an assumed 10 grains of water hardness.

[4] "When, Why, and How to Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Glass-Lined Water Heaters (for non glass-lined tanks, consult water heater manufacturer)" PDF provided by A.O. Smith Water Products Company - hotwater.com/lit/training/4800r9.pdf 800-433-2545 - 01/07/2009.

[6] A.O. Smith"s Form No. 4778* All about Deliming Coil-Type/Tube-Type Commercial Water Heaters and Hydronic Boilers *Normally supplied when ordering Part No. 4930 Motorized Deliming Pump Kit

[7] "Building Owner Water Heater Safety Notice", Building Department, City of Colleyville TX, web search 09/24/2010, original source: http://www.colleyville.com/dmdocuments/Building%20

Water heater safety is imperative to the occupants of a building or structure. If improperly installed, water heaters can be detrimental to the structure, as well as being potentially fatal to its occupants. The proper installation of a water heater is so important that according to Texas State Law all water heater installations must be inspected by a state licensed plumbing inspector.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

It can be all too easy to forget about your water heater when everything appears to be working correctly. However, a stuck or faulty pressure relief valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to reach dangerous levels — with potentially explosive results. Therefore, testing your water heater pressure relief valve should be at the top of your home maintenance checklist.

You don"t need to be a professional plumber to check your water heater"s safety mechanisms. With the right knowledge, even novice DIY-ers can test their water heater pressure relief valves.

A water heater pressure relief valve is exactly what it says on the tin: a safety mechanism that prevents excessive pressure from building up in your water heater"s tank. Without it, there would be a risk of the tank bursting and flooding your house. A bursting water tank can also cause serious injury and damage to your home"s structure, so keeping the pressure relief valve in good working order is essential.

Pressure inside your water tank occurs when the water expands and produces steam as it heats. The hotter the water, the greater the potential for high pressure. Although some pressure is normal and can escape through the pipes supplying your fixtures, the pressure relief valve activates when the pressure exceeds safe levels. It releases some hot water and steam until the pressure level normalizes.

A water heater pressure relief valve is a short, flat lever attached to a pipe running through the water heater. Its location varies depending on what water heater model you have, but you can usually find it above the tank or high up on one of the sides.

Sometimes, a water heater"s pressure relief valve can get stuck due to a build-up of deposits. Corrosion can also damage the valve and stop it from working correctly. A stuck or broken valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to exceed the safe limit, so it"s crucial to test it regularly.

You can test your water heater pressure relief valve by opening it slightly with a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Don"t force the valve open if you feel resistance. You"ll know that your valve is working properly if you can see or hear water and gas escaping. If you can"t see water escaping, or you can"t turn the valve easily, it"s time to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve. You should also call a plumber if you see signs that the valve is leaking, such as water pooling on the floor under the tank.

Sometimes, a water heater pressure relief valve will start leaking after you test it, even if the test shows that it"s working correctly. You can often solve this problem by gently opening and closing the valve a few times to remove any deposits stopping it from shutting. Call a plumber to check and repair the leak if this doesn"t work.

You should test your water heater pressure relief valve once or twice each year. The more often you check the valve, the higher the chances of detecting a problem early and preventing a costly leak or burst tank.

One of the most effective ways to prevent problems with your water heater"s pressure relief valve is to ensure that the drain line is installed correctly. It should angle downwards and match the valve"s exhaust port size to allow water to drain properly and prevent corrosion. It"s also essential to use a drain line made from heat-resistant material, like copper. You should call a plumber to replace the drain line if you"re concerned that your installation is incorrect.

Insulating the drain line can stop it from freezing in cold weather. A frozen drain line will stop the pressure release valve from functioning correctly, even if it"s otherwise in good condition.

When you open a water heater pressure relief valve, the water that drips out will be very hot. Therefore, it"s essential to wear protective gloves and eyewear and avoid opening the valve all the way. You may also wish to consider wearing protective clothing to protect your skin against burns.

You will need to replace your water heater pressure relief valve if it"s stuck or damaged. A plumber can tell you whether it"s best to repair the valve or replace it altogether. Furthermore, it"s wise to replace the valve every five years or so, especially if it hasn"t been tested recently.

It’s never a good sign when you find water on the floor around your water heater. But before you panic, it’s important to figure out where it’s coming from.

Upon further investigation, if you find the water is being discharged from a small tube that comes out of the top or side of the unit, runs down the side of the tank, and ends near the ground, then the source is likely the temperature pressure relief valve, or relief valve, for short.

The relief valve is an important safety feature on the water heater. If the water inside the unit gets too hot (usually above 210 degrees) or pressure builds up too high (above 150 psi), the water heater can become damaged or even explore.

A good solution to this risk is the relief valve. If at any point the temperature or pressure reaches an unsafe level, the water heater triggers the relief valve to open and release water out of the tank until the temperature and pressure return to normal.

Both circumstances should be taken very seriously. If the relief valve is needed frequently, that means there’s an issue with your water heater that is causing unsafe temperatures or pressure.

On the other hand, if the relief valve is stuck or has another problem, it needs to be fixed or replaced right away so it can do its job properly when necessary.

If water is coming out of the relief valve of your water heater, don’t ignore it. Bring in the expert team at Pratt Plumbing to inspect your water heater to make sure you don’t have a potentially dangerous situation in your home. To schedule an appointment, call (806) 373-7866 today.

On the side or top of your water heater tank is a valve connected to a metal or plastic discharge tube pointing downward. The valve is called a T&P valve, or TPR valve, for "temperature and pressure relief."

If all goes well, a TPR valve never gets used intentionally except during testing. But in the event of an emergency or malfunction, this valve is of critical importance. It can potentially prevent your water heater from exploding. Understanding how a T&P valve works will help you keep your water heater in tip-top shape and prevent possible damage to your home.

A T&P valve is a valve with an attached tube located on the outside of a water heater. The valve provides relief to the water heater if the pressure exceeds normal operating limits, usually 150 psi.

Mandated by all plumbing codes, the T&P valve relieves excess temperature and pressure in a water heater if either reaches a critical point. A water heater is a closed system, and thermal expansion is an inescapable fact of both normal and abnormal water heater functioning.

In a standard water heater, the water is heated by a gas burner or electric elements. As the water reaches temperatures between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, both the water and the water heater"s metal tank expand.

Some expansion is normal, but too much expansion is unsafe. When the temperature reaches 210 degrees or the pressure reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch), a properly functioning T&P valve opens and expels hot water and steam through the discharge tube.

When you purchase a water heater, the T&P valve generally comes pre-installed. A threaded inlet is welded onto the side of the tank. This inlet cannot be removed or replaced. The T&P valve is screwed clockwise onto that inlet.

Because the T&P valve is rarely used, mineral build-up can cause it to stiffen over time. This is a significant safety hazard because, in the event of a temperature or pressure spike, the T&P valve may not open as it should and the water heater might explode.

Water heater manufacturers recommend regular checking of the T&P valve. Wear closed-toe shoes to avoid scalding. Except for a bucket, no tools are required.

Before you begin, make sure you know where the shut-off valve of your tank is. It"s usually located on the cold water feed, on the right side inlet on top of the tank.

Release the lever and let it snap back to its original position. If the lever does not snap back into place, the valve is faulty and must be replaced.

In most cases, there are two problems you might have to address with the T&P valve: a valve that leaks by constantly dripping or a valve that sticks and doesn"t open and close properly.

When a T&P valve is leaking, it may be due to the valve not being properly seated in the threaded opening of the tank. This is especially likely if the leaking occurs immediately after an old valve is replaced. This can be remedied by shutting off the water heater and letting it cool down completely, then removing and rethreading the valve into the tank"s opening.

If the valve is leaking due to dirt or sediment trapped in the relief port, pull the metal spring lever back again and discharge water into the bucket. Once the lever snaps back again, if the water fails to stop completely, shut turn the gas valve to the off position and shut the water off to replace the valve.

A water heater that periodically discharges hot water and steam from the T&P valve may be set to a water temperature that is too high. Make sure that the water temperature setting is in the normal recommended range—about 120 degrees Fahrenheit—or no more than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

When stuck downward, the valve cannot provide relief if the system reaches maximum pressure. As a result, the water heater tank might rupture. When stuck in a fully extended position, the T&P valve will continually leak water down through the discharge tube, potentially flooding the home.

The stickiness of the valve can sometimes be remedied by simply opening and closing the lever several times. Jiggle the T&P valve by gently pulling the lever towards you. Much like jiggling a toilet handle, this action may be enough to unstick the valve. If this does not fix the problem, replace the valve.

However, some caution is necessary whenever working with a water heater, because the T&P valve can become damaged if the water heater has exceeded maximum pressure or temperature levels. If you suspect a pressure-related problem with your water heater tank, hire a licensed plumber to have the water heater inspected.

If you’ve noticed water pooling around your hot water heater, this may be because of the water heater pressure release valve. Wondering what this means, and what you should do about it? Find out now!

It typically consists of a valve that attaches to the side of the tank with a long copper tube or PVC tube that runs vertically downward, allowing water to drain out of the valve when necessary.

If you are having trouble finding the valve on your unit, or cannot identify it, we recommend searching for the make and model of your water heater on the internet. The manufacturer’s schematics and manuals will help you locate the water heater pressure relief valve.

The water heater pressure release valve, also known as the “temperature and pressure” (T&P) valve is a valve that helps control the pressure and temperature of your water heater, preventing it from overheating, becoming too highly pressurized, and potentially exploding.

The way this valve works is by sometimes letting a little bit of water drip out of the tank. When there is too much pressure inside the tank, the valve opens up to relieve this pressure and some water will drip out of it. This is normal, and indicates that the valve is functioning properly.

However, if your water heater pressure release valve is constantly leaking a lot of water, the water contains debris, or your valve is making a lot of noise like whistling and screeching, this may indicate that it has failed, and is not operating properly.

If your water heater pressure release valve only leaks every once in a while, this is normal. It’s doing its job, and there’s nothing to worry about. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it’s not draining constantly.

But if you notice the aforementioned issues like lots of drainage coming from the valve, water flooding, or whistling and screeching sounds from the valve, you should:

Call G&C Plumbing to get help – Call us right away to get help. A damaged or failing water heater pressure relief valve could cause serious damage, so you need to work with a professional to repair or replace your water heater, as necessary.

Before you call G&C Plumbing for help, remember to shut off the power and water to your hot water heater. Then, call us today at 508-541-8783, and we’ll head your way first thing the next day.

We’ll check your water heater pressure relief valve, determine the source of the issue, and let you know your best option for restoring the proper, safe functionality of your hot water heater. Call today to get the help you need in Franklin or Bellingham, MA today.

Water heater temperature and pressure relief valves, or T&P valves, are a safety feature found on all tank water heaters. The valve should always be in good working order to ensure the water heater is safe in the event of extreme pressure buildup. It’s designed to open temporarily and discharge short spurts of water when the temperature exceeds about 210 degrees F, and it releases pressure if the tank gets above 150 psi. It’s important to locate your hot water heater pressure relief valve so you can test it at least once a year and address leaks as they occur.

The T&P valve is usually located high on the side or on top of the tank. It’s connected to a pipe that runs down the length of the water heater and stops a few inches above the floor. The valve itself consists of a flat, inch-and-a-half-long lever that lifts and lowers when water is released to reduce the temperature and pressure within the tank.

It’s recommended that homeowners test the hot water heater pressure relief valve at least once a year to make sure it’s functioning properly. Now that you know where the T&P valve is located, you can test it with ease.

The most important test is to ensure the T&P valve operates correctly. If it doesn’t, pressure could build up inside the tank and become a safety hazard.

Before you test the T&P valve, make sure a pipe is connected to it that guides discharged water to a floor drain or basin below. Then, lift up on the lever and listen for water discharging from the tank and exiting the pipe near the floor. This indicates a successful test and tells you the valve is working correctly.

If water doesn’t discharge from the valve, or the lever is stuck in the closed position (don’t apply excessive force to open it), this could mean naturally occurring mineral deposits are blocking the waterway, rendering the valve inoperable. Turn off the water heater and call a plumber immediately to replace the valve.

If you hear the sound of trickling water coming from the hot water heater, the T&P valve may be leaking. This could mean the valve is defective and needs to be replaced. It could also indicate that the water pressure regulator valve or thermostat is faulty. Or it might mean the valve is doing its job by releasing excess pressure inside the tank.

All of the potential reasons for a leaky T&P valve demand attention, but first you must test whether your valve is leaking. Check for water pooling around the tank. Then, touch the drain line with your hand to see if it feels warm. If so, this is where hot water is leaking out of the tank. Hire a plumber to determine the cause of the leak and replace the hot water heater pressure relief valve if necessary.

Many manufacturers require an inspection and replacement of the T&P valve every two to four years, depending on local water conditions. Any signs of corrosion or scaling indicate the need for an immediate replacement.

If you notice problems with your water heater, or you can’t remember the last time you had the pressure relief valve inspected or replaced, contact Mr. Rooter Plumbing to schedule water heater repair today.

If you find your water heater leaking, you need to take action immediately. A leaking water heater may seem like a minor inconvenience, but in reality, it can quickly turn into a major problem. The average water heater has a 50-gallon tank and whenever water leaves the tank (drawn or leaking) cold water will quickly refill it to capacity.

As the tank is constantly refilling from the water heater leak, the area surrounding your tank will flood. Even a small amount of water leaking from your water heater can cause damage to your floors, sub-floors and walls. A significant flood could lead to hefty repair bills and damage to personal property. Water heater leaks can also be a health concern and lead to mold and mildew.

Not all water heater leaks are serious. Some can be repaired by simply tightening a connection. Others may need a little more attention, but you can probably do the repairs yourself, especially if you enjoy DIY projects.

Unfortunately, there"s also times when you"ll find your water tank leaking and you"ll either need to call a plumber to make the repairs, or purchase a new water heater.

If your water heater leak is not obvious, then you may want to do a little troubleshooting before turning off the water supply. Just because you have water under your water heater doesn"t mean that your water heater is leaking.

Furnace drain lines, water softener discharge lines, condensation, and other plumbing could be the source. These things can easily make it look as though your water tank is leaking, when in fact, the problem isn"t your water heater at all.

If you can"t identify where the water is coming from, you can dry the area and place some paper towels or newspapers down. Check back over the next couple of days. If the water returns, and you still can"t identify the source, there"s a good chance your water heater is leaking.

On top of your water heater there should be two pipes. One will be warm to the touch and the other cold. Some manufacturers even identify them with red and blue collars or paint.

The pipe that"s cold is the water supply line. It allows cold water to enter your water heater when hot water is drawn. Follow the line and look for a shutoff valve. Most water heaters have a shutoff valve on the water supply line.

There are two types of valves commonly used:Ball Valve - Ball valves have a lever type handle. Pull or turn the handle down to shut off the water supply.

Dial Valve- Dial valves (also called gate valves) have a wheel that needs to be turned clockwise to turn off the water supply. Turn the dial until it stops.

In this case, you may need to turn the water off using your home"s main shut-off valve. This will shut down all the incoming water to your house, including the water supply to your water heater.

How to Turn Off a Gas Water HeaterLocate the valve on the gas supply line. The line is usually within a couple feet of your water heater. It"s located near the bottom and connects to the gas control valve.

How to Turn Off an Electric Water HeaterLocate the breaker to your water heater in the household electrical panel. It will be on a dedicated circuit breaker.

Right now our goal is to identify the source of the water heater leak. Once you determine why your water heater is leaking, we"ll show you how to fix the problem.

If your water heater has a pool of water on top, there"s a good chance that the source of the leak is either the incoming water supply valve, cold water inlet, or the hot water outlet.

Whenever there are pipe connections, there"s a higher chance of a leak. Follow the cold and hot water pipes. Do you see any water? Are the fittings tight? Is there any leakage around the shutoff valve on the cold water supply line?

When pressure builds within the tank to an unsafe level, the T&P valve relieves the tank pressure by opening the valve and allowing some of the water out of the tank.

You can find the T&P relief valve on the top of your water heater or on the side. Look for a copper or PVC pipe that runs down the side of the tank towards the floor. This is the T&P drain pipe and it connects to the relief valve.

How to Determine if the T&P Valve is the Source of the Leak:Inspect the Tank: Check the area where the T&P relief valve enters the tank for signs of a leak.

Inspect the Valve: If the T&P relief valve is in the closed position and water is flowing from the attached pipe, the valve is defective and needs to be replaced.

Inspect the Valve: If the T&P relief valve is in the open position, it may be relieving excessive pressure from the tank (which is forcing the valve open). If this is the case, the leak is generally fixable, but the situation should be taken very seriously. We highly recommend calling a professional plumber.

Since the T&P relief valve is a safety device, and if this is the source of your leak, it"s important that the valve is either replaced, or a plumber is called as soon as possible.

Once you determine that the problem is coming from the T&P valve we"ll do some additional troubleshooting to try to isolate the problem. If the solution is to replace the valve, we"ll show you how.

If the T&P valve opens intermittently, or even daily, the cause may be due to normal water pressure expansion. This can be resolved by installing an expansion tank. Read our extensive article on expansion tanks HERE.

Check the area around the drain valve where it enters the tank. There should be no signs of moisture. If you do have moisture where the drain valve enters the tank, it"s likely that you have an internal tank leak.

Unfortunately, many manufacturers install low quality drain valves in their water heaters, so it"s not uncommon for this to be the source of your leak.

If the internal steel water tank is leaking, you won"t be able to see it by looking at the outer skin. In most cases, you"ll notice water under the water heater since the most likely way for it to escape is from the bottom.

When you were inspecting your drain valve and T&P relief valve, you may have noticed moisture where the valves entered the tank. If this was the case, there"s a good chance that your internal water tank is leaking.

There are preventative measures you can take such as, treating hard water and performing regular maintenance, but eventually the inevitable will happen and you"ll have a leaking water heater.

If the problem appears to be minor, and you have experience doing your own home plumbing repairs, you may choose to fix your leaking water heater yourself.

If you have a leak coming from the area where the cold water inlet or hot water outlet connects to the water heater, you may be able to fix it by tightening the connections with a pipe wrench.

If tightening the connectors doesn"t stop the leak, then you should replace the flex lines that supply the cold water (or hot water). The video below will show you how.

Since the T&P relief valve is designed to prevent your water heater from overheating and developing excessive pressure within the tank, it"s a good idea to do a little extra troubleshooting before assuming the valve is faulty and simply replacing it with a new one.

This article will show you how to determine if the problem is a faulty T&P relief valve or if the valve is actually doing its job. If it"s the latter, then your water heater requires immediate attention.

It"s also not uncommon to notice water leaking from the threads of your T&P relief valve where it attaches to the tank. If this is the case, you"ll need to remove the T&P valve and check the tank for signs of rust or corrosion.

If you see signs of rust or corrosion it"s an indication that the problem is with the internal tank. Unfortunately, you"ll need to purchase a new water heater.

However, if the tank appears to be in good condition, you can wrap the threads of the T&P valve with Teflon tape and screw it back into the tank. It may simply not have had a good seal.

If you determine that the valve is faulty and needs to be replaced. You can find step-by-step directions here, or follow along with this instructional video.

If your water heater is leaking from the drain valve, it is generally one of two things:There is debris inside the valve preventing it from fully closing

How to Determine if a Drain Valve is Faulty:Place a bucket under the valve and turn the dial counter-clockwise. If there"s not enough space between the floor and the drain valve for a bucket, you may need to attach a garden hose.

Once the drain valve is open it should flush out debris. If it"s been awhile since you"ve flushed your water heater tank, it"s possible that your drain valve will clog. Here"s how to address the clog.

Unlike the T&P relief valve, the drain valve is not a safety device. If you"re unsure about replacing the valve yourself, or don"t have time to get to it right away, you can simply buy a brass garden hose end cap and screw it onto the drain valve threads

Changing a drain valve is relatively easy, and something you can do yourself once you buy a new valve. Always be sure to purchase one that"s compatible with your water heater.

Water heaters are usually factory-set to heat water to 125°F, which is hot enough to inflict first degree burns to skin on contact. And, if the water temperature was set to maximum, the water could be anywhere from 160° to 190°F which could result in serious injuries!

If your internal tank is leaking, you really only have one viable option. You"ll need to replace the water heater. Internal tank leaks can not be repaired and the leak will only get worse.

However, if the water heater leak isn"t too bad, and its installed in a basement or garage, you could buy yourself some time and just keep an eye on it.

Although we don"t recommend this approach, a minor leak likely won"t do too much damage on a cement floor, especially in a garage. It could allow you to budget for a new water heater, rather than going in debt or buying an inexpensive lower quality unit.

If you do choose to go this route, we highly recommend purchasing a water alarm and positioning the sensor at a distance that will alert you to a serious leak.

Depending on the type of leak, you"ll either need to repair or replace your water heater. Although, many of the repair fixes can be performed by the homeowner, frequently people prefer to call a professional plumber.

Water heaters generally last 8 to 12 years. So if your leaking water heater is nearing old age, you may choose to replace it with a new energy efficient model rather than pay for repairs.

New water heaters are far more energy efficient, which means they will save you money each month in operating costs. They"ll also be under warranty, so any issues for the next couple of years will be covered.

We recommend considering the cost of repairs and the age of your water heater when you make your decision on whether to repair or replace your water heater.

Your water heater is one of the main appliances in your household. When it isn"t operating correctly, it"ll make its problems known. Either by not delivering hot water, creating unusual noises, or leaking.

If you"ve determined that your water heater leak is beyond your skill set. You need to call a professional plumber at 1(888) 594-4431. They"ll be trained and prepared to handle any issue they encounter, and can offer advise on whether you should repair or replace your water heater.

If you hire a plumber to replace your water heater, in most cases they"ll get rid of the old one for you. However, if you"re replacing the water heater yourself, you"ll need to find a way to get rid of it on your own. This article will give you several options.

Maybe. Tankless water heaters are wonderful and have many advantages. But they aren"t for every homeowner. We recommend reading our Tankless Buyers Guide to see if making the switch is a good move for you. There"s a lot to consider, so take your time to be sure it"s the right thing to do.

Yes, if your water heater is leaking because the T&P relief valve is releasing pressure from within the tank, then the situation could be extremely dangerous. Your water heater is malfunctioning and causing either the internal tank pressure to be above 150 psi or the water temperature to be above 210°F. Turn off the power and call a professional immediately.

However, in most cases, water damage is the biggest concern. Repairing damaged floors can be expensive and it"ll be critical that the clean-up is properly done or you may develop mold and mildew. Mold and mildew can be a health hazard and can cause serious respiratory problems.

Recently, I came across a very dangerous situation with electric water heaters, one that Next Plumbing thinks needs to be addressed. A capped or plugged water heater T&P valve is one of the worst “band-aid” fixes you could ever do in your house. Doing so creates the grounds for a potential bomb or missile in your basement! Although rare, the threat of a water heater explosion is very real. It is crucial to hire an experienced and licensed plumber to fix your water heater instead of using DIY "band-aid" fixes.

The T&P valve, or temperature and pressure relief valve, is one of the most important safety devices in your home. If the temperature rises above 210 degrees Fahrenheit or the pressure exceeds 150 psi, the valve will open and relieve the pressure inside the tank.

In doing so, a small amount of water will also be dispensed onto the floor. Unfortunately, many people mistake this for a leak or a water heater failure, when in fact, it may simply be doing what it is designed to do. If you ever see water on your floor around this area, you should call a plumber right away. The valve may be failing, in which case it should be replaced, or you may have excessive pressure in your tank, which should be tested for.

If you happen to have a pressure reducing valve installed on your main water line, you should pay special attention to this. A pressure reducing valve creates a closed system in your home, and will not allow for thermal expansion. If you have one of these, AND your T&P valve drips occasionally, you may need a thermal expansion tank installed.

Temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valves used on residential water heaters are typically designed and manufactured to relieve on pressure at 150 psig and on temperature at 210 degrees F. These ASME, ANSI and CSA (AGA) approved relief valves protect the water heater from excess pressures and temperatures by discharging water.

In normal operation of the water heater and T&P valve, no water should be discharged from the valve. A T&P valve that discharges is an indication of an abnormal condition in the system and by discharging, the T&P valve is meeting its designed safety purpose. The causes of discharge can be thermal expansion, excess system pressure, low temperature relief, too high a setting on the water heater, or something in the water heater causing excess temperatures in the heater.

When water is heated it expands. In a 40 gallon water heater, water being heated to its thermostat setting will end up expanding by approximately 1/2 gallon. The extra volume created by this expansion has to go somewhere or pressure will dramatically increase, such as when water is heated in a closed system.

A good indication of thermal expansion is when the T&P valve releases about one cup of water for each 10 gallons of heater capacity with each heating cycle. The T&P valve is functioning properly when it relieves pressure caused by thermal expansion, but frequent relief can build up natural mineral deposits on the valve seat, rendering the valve inoperative. This condition can be addressed by the installation of a Watts thermal expansion tank or other Watts thermal expansion device to protect your system from overpressure caused by thermal expansion. If there is no discharge from the valve, there is no need to replace the valve.

If installation of a thermal expansion device does not relieve occasional dripping from the T&P valve, then the system pressure should be checked. If system pressure is excessive (typically more than 75 PSI), a Watts pressure regulator should be installed on the incoming water line.

WARNING: The discharge from a T&P valve can be very hot. It is very important that all T&P valves be installed properly with a discharge line piped downward to an adequate drain to avoid property damage and to minimize possible human contact. Please read and follow the instructions on the warning tag attached to your T&P valve.

Important Instructions: Relief Valves and Automatic Gas Shut-Off Devices Combination temperature and pressure relief valves with extension thermostats must be installed so that the temperature-sensing element is immersed in the water within the top 6″ (152mm) of the water storage tank. They must be installed either in the hot outlet service line or directly in a tank tapping. Combination temperature and pressure relief valves that do not have extension elements must be mounted directly in a tank tapping located within the top 6″ (152mm) of the water storage tank. Valves must be located so as to assure isolation from flue gas heat or other ambient conditions that are not indicative of stored water temperature.

WARNING: To avoid water damage or scalding due to valve operation, discharge line must be connected to valve outlet and run to a safe place of disposal. Discharge line must be as short as possible and be the same size as the valve discharge connection throughout its entire length. Discharge line must pitch downward from the valve and terminate at least 6″ (152mm) above a drain where any discharge will be clearly visible. The discharge line shall terminate plain, not threaded. Discharge line material must conform to local plumbing codes or ASME requirements. Excessive length over 30′ (9.14m), or use of more than four elbows or reducing discharge line size will cause a restriction and reduce the discharge capacity of the valve.

No shut-off valve shall be installed between the relief valve and tank, or in the discharge line. Valve lever must be tripped at least once a year to ensure that waterways are clear. When manually operating lever, water will discharge through discharge line and precautions must be taken to avoid contact with hot water and to avoid water damage. This device is designed for emergency safety relief and shall not be used as an operating control. If discharge occurs, a licensed contractor must evaluate the system and determine the cause for discharge and correct the cause immediately.

To ensure proper operation, this valve must be installed by a qualified service technician or licensed plumbing contractor in accordance with these instructions and the local plumbing codes and standards. Repair or alteration of valve in any way is prohibited by national safety standards/local codes.

Important: A relief valve functions, in an emergency, by discharging water. Therefore it is essential that a discharge line be piped from the valve in order to carry the overflow to a safe place of disposal. The discharge line must be the same size as the valve outlet and must pitch downward from the valve.

WARNING: Following installation, the valve lever MUST be operated AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR by the water heater owner to ensure that waterways are clear. Certain naturally occurring mineral deposits may adhere to the valve, blocking waterways, rendering it inoperative. When the lever is operated, hot water will discharge if the waterways are clear. PRECAUTIONS MUST BE TAKEN TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY FROM CONTACT WITH HOT WATER AND TO AVOID PROPERTY DAMAGE. Before operating lever, check to see that a discharge line is connected to this valve, directing the flow of hot water from the valve to a proper place of disposal. If no water flows when the lever is operated, replacement of the valve is required. TURN THE WATER HEATER “OFF” (see your water heater instruction manual) AND CALL A PLUMBER IMMEDIATELY.

WARNING: Temperature and Pressure Relief Valves should be inspected AT LEAST ONCE EVERY THREE YEARS, and replaced, if necessary, by a licensed plumbing contractor or qualified service technician, to ensure that the product has not been affected by corrosive water conditions and to ensure that the valve and discharge line have not been altered or tampered with illegally.

Certain naturally occurring conditions may corrode the valve or its components over time, rendering the valve inoperative. Such conditions can only be detected if the valve and its components are physically removed and inspected.

Do not attempt to conduct an inspection on your own. Contact your plumbing contractor for a re-inspection to assure continuing safety. FAILURE TO REINSPECT THIS VALVE AS DIRECTED COULD RESULT IN UNSAFE TEMPERATURE OR PRESSURE BUILD-UP WHICH CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH AND/OR SEVERE PROPERTY DAMAGE.

As with most homeowners, you probably only think about your water heater when there is no hot water for your shower or you notice a puddle underneath the water heater. Whatever the reason, when it is time to buy a water heater, consider electric ones because they offer features that ensure a long life and an economical supply of hot water.

One great feature of many types of electric water heaters is a non-metallic storage tank. Manufacturers of these tanks warranty them against leakage, eliminating a major cause of early water-heater failure. And if you live in an area with corrosive water, you’ll find this feature to be especially cost-effective.

Another factor to look for when you’re shopping for a new electric water heater is the amount of built-in insulation it offers. Although this type of water heater generally costs more than one with minimal insulation, you’ll be saving money in the long run by reducing the amount of electricity needed to keep the water hot.

Also, be sure to compare federal Energy guide labels on electric water heaters before you choose one. The Energy guide label will give you the unit’s estimated annual energy cost. A high-efficiency electric water heater costs more than an inefficient one, but you will be paid back through lower electric bills.

Electric water heaters come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and unlike a gas water heater, you don’t have to install gas pipelines or flues. An electric water heater, therefore, can be installed closer to the rooms that use hot water.

Less water is wasted going down the drain while you wait for it to get hot, and less energy is wasted heating water that ends up in the pipeline between a faucet and a distant water heater.

Controlling your water heater allows you to take full advantage of the efficiency of the storage tank. This allows water to be heated during non-peak hours for use throughout the day. Automatic timers can do the job for you. Properly sized water heaters provide enough hot water to meet your needs round the clock.

Turn the hot water heater control valve to the off position and the temperature dial to its lowest setting. Turn off the water supply to the heater at the valve located on the cold water line running to the tank. Alternatively, turn off the water at the house supply valve.

Open a hot water faucet to release pressure on the lines. Position a 5-gallon bucket under the tank drain valve. Drain enough water from the tank to bring the level below the relief valve. Generally, draining 5 to 10 gallons is sufficient if the relief valve is located toward the top of a 50-gallon tank. Exercise caution during the draining procedure; the water is still very hot.

Examine the relief valve discharge line, which should run in a downward direction from the valve toward the bottom of the tank. You can remove a straight line in one piece, but some discharge lines are plumbed so that they run to a location other than the base of the tank, such as a remote drain. Obtain the necessary clearance to remove this type of line by cutting it with a hack saw or close-quarters tubing cutter at a point at least 2 inches below the valve.

Grasp the nut-shaped connector threaded into the relief valve using a pipe wrench or a large pair of slip-joint pliers. Turn the connector and attached section of discharge line counterclockwise to remove it from the valve. Set the discharge line aside for reuse.

Remove the relief valve from the hot water tank by turning it counterclockwise with a large pipe wrench. Depending on the age of the valve, considerable force is often required. Clean the threads of the relief valve opening using a wire brush, then wipe away any debris with a rag. Discard the old valve or set it aside for recycling.

Apply sealant to the threads of the new relief valve. Insert the valve into the opening in the tank and thread it hand-tight. Tighten the valve three to four more full turns using a pipe wrench. Align the valve so that the opening points downward toward the bottom of the tank.

Clean the threads of the discharge line connector with a wire brush, then wipe away any debris with a rag. Apply sealant to the threads. Thread the connector into the relief valve discharge opening and tighten it with a wrench. The opening of a straight discharge line should terminate in a safe location within 6 inches of the floor, or as called for by your local plumbing code.

Turn on the water supply to the hot water heater. Allow air to bleed out of the hot water lines through the faucet you opened earlier, then close the faucet. Flip open the lever on the relief valve for several seconds to check it for proper operation. Close the valve and check for leaks.

Yes, if the flow occurs whilst the tank is heating, and about 30 minutes after the end of the heating cycle. This is normal and the expected function by this safety component, which is the safety group.This leak is due to the increase of volume by the expansion of water that is heated by the electrical immersion resistor in the tank. When water heats up, its volume increases, as does its pressure.

The safety group closes its non-return valve and thus impedes any return of hot water into the cold water supply circuit. This is the non-return function of the safety group. To compensate for the expansion of the water, for 7 bars, the safety group opens to let a little water flow out and thus to compensate for the expansion of the water. It is therefore normal to find a trickle of water in the form of regular drops (corresponding with an average of 3% of the volume in the tank).

No. As explained above, to compensa