hot water tank safety valve leaking supplier

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

If an expansion tank is already installed and there is still a problem with excessive pressure, you have a problem with the expansion tank. I’ll talk about expansion tanks in next week’s blog post.

If you’ve noticed water pooling around your hot water heater, this may be because of the water heater pressure release valve. Wondering what this means, and what you should do about it? Find out now!

It typically consists of a valve that attaches to the side of the tank with a long copper tube or PVC tube that runs vertically downward, allowing water to drain out of the valve when necessary.

If you are having trouble finding the valve on your unit, or cannot identify it, we recommend searching for the make and model of your water heater on the internet. The manufacturer’s schematics and manuals will help you locate the water heater pressure relief valve.

The water heater pressure release valve, also known as the “temperature and pressure” (T&P) valve is a valve that helps control the pressure and temperature of your water heater, preventing it from overheating, becoming too highly pressurized, and potentially exploding.

The way this valve works is by sometimes letting a little bit of water drip out of the tank. When there is too much pressure inside the tank, the valve opens up to relieve this pressure and some water will drip out of it. This is normal, and indicates that the valve is functioning properly.

However, if your water heater pressure release valve is constantly leaking a lot of water, the water contains debris, or your valve is making a lot of noise like whistling and screeching, this may indicate that it has failed, and is not operating properly.

If your water heater pressure release valve only leaks every once in a while, this is normal. It’s doing its job, and there’s nothing to worry about. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it’s not draining constantly.

But if you notice the aforementioned issues like lots of drainage coming from the valve, water flooding, or whistling and screeching sounds from the valve, you should:

Call G&C Plumbing to get help – Call us right away to get help. A damaged or failing water heater pressure relief valve could cause serious damage, so you need to work with a professional to repair or replace your water heater, as necessary.

Before you call G&C Plumbing for help, remember to shut off the power and water to your hot water heater. Then, call us today at 508-541-8783, and we’ll head your way first thing the next day.

We’ll check your water heater pressure relief valve, determine the source of the issue, and let you know your best option for restoring the proper, safe functionality of your hot water heater. Call today to get the help you need in Franklin or Bellingham, MA today.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

This article explains hot water thermal expansion that can cause leaks, drips, or discharges from pressure relief valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, or TP valves found on heating boilers, water heaters.

Watch out: a dripping or frequently spilling T&P valve is dangerous because those very leaks can eventually cause the valve to clog and then to fail to open when it should.

See HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE - for an explanation of just how much pressure increase to expect when heating water. In explaining why the relief valve on a water heater may be dripping, American Water Heater Co. [1] explains:

Note: While a 125 psi pressure relief valve on cold water supply piping is fine to protect piping from rupturing, if building incoming water pressures are too high, rather than relying just on a relief valve (wasting water) we prefer to install a pressure reducing/control valve at the building entering water supply piping. Limit incoming water pressure to 60 psi at a typical one or two story residential home.

Watts (2011) suggests two methods for testing for thermal expansion of hot water as the cause of a TP valve drip. The text below is adapted from that source.

If the TPR valve is leaking due to thermal expansion of hot water, simply opening a water faucet or fixture anywhere in the plumbing system will immediately stop the drip.

That"s because opening the hot water faucet reduces the system pressure back to normal operating levels - we are no longer heating water in a "closed" piping and tank system.

Why would opening either a hot or cold water faucet work? Because when no water is running, the entire plumbing system is "closed" - unless there is an expansion tank already installed on the hot water heating system to accommodate thermal expansion, heating water in the water cylinder (water heater for Yanks) causes an increase in system pressure.

Install a pressure gauge on a convenient hose bib such as at the washing machine hook-up or if weather permits, outdoors. Install & use the pressure gauge to monitor system water pressure over at least a full 24-hour period. You don"t have to sleep by it.

If you select a pressure gauge with a re-settable "telltale" needle, the gauge"s re-settable indicator will indicate the highest pressure that has been reached by the water system since the water pressure test gauge was installed.

SeeMEASURE WATER SYSTEM PRESSURE & PRESSURE MAXIMUM for tips on how to make or buy an inexpensive recording-type water pressure test gauge for this purpose.

where we describe both hot water expansion tanks and hot water expansion relief valves designed to handle thermal water pressure increases and thus to stop dripping TP valves.

Watch out: get advice from a licensed plumber and your local water supplier. Never remove or plug a leaky pressure/temperature relief valve on a water heater - doing so risks dangerous or even fatal

See RELIEF VALVE LEAK DUE TO EXPANSION TANK where in a series of steps a homeowner figures out that a leaky TPR valve is due to the failure of the internal bladder of an expansion tank attached to the boiler.

If the building water pressure gauge reading is ever found at 80 psi or higher, you will want to install a water pressure regulator at the point where water supply enters the building.

If your building already has a water pressure gauge installed, it may be defective or it may be set too high. The articles listed just below discuss how to adjust a water pressure regulator:

An alternative to installing or changing a water pressure regulator when building water pressure is occasionally 80 psi or higher is the installation of an expansion tank to temporarily absorb that pressure increase.

Proper use of an expansion tank can help avoid unnecessary opening of the pressure/temperature relief valve on a hot water heating tank or a hot water heating boiler.

You go through alot of effort to explain how heated water expands and the resulting increase in pressure. All that is well and good for theory. In a domestic (North American) water supply system, to the best of my knowlege there is nothing to prevent the expanding water/pressure from the hot water heater from just backing up into the supply plumbing and hence the water pressure in the hot water heater would NEVER exceed the supply pressure. Or is there a required one way valve somewhere in the system I am not aware of say in the hot water heater?

Domestic water systems in most cities are required to have a backflow preventer or check valve on the system. So when no water is being run the system is in effect closed.

My original interest and intent was to show that the actual expansion in volume from heating water is actually very small. Nevertheless, on some systems, the water heater can cause enough of a pressure increase that some installations include a small water heater expansion tank.

Where expanding hot water pressure is causing trouble the common solution is the installation of a small expansion tank, usually on the hot water supply line above the water heater, though it could go almost anywhere so long as it"s not isolated from the heater by a shutoff valve.

Thermal expansion occurs as domestic water is heated. Left unchecked, the resulting pressure increase can cause relief valve discharge and other potentially hazardous conditions. Therm-X-Trol® expansion tanks absorb this expanded water, keeping water pressure at a safe level.

Water heater manufacturers and plumbing codes require the installation of an expansion control device if a backflow preventor, pressure reducing valve or check valve is installed in the domestic supply line.

Watch out: a leaky relief valve on a water heater, heating boiler, or any other closed vessel is dangerous. Leaks ultimately can lead to relief valve clogging, failure, and worse, BLEVE EXPLOSIONS. Beginning at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS we describe all of the causes of and cures for leaky relief valves or TP valves.

ANSI BS 7074-1:1989, Application, selection and installation of expansion vessels and ancillary equipment for sealed water systems. Code of practice for domestic heating and hot water supply (British Standard)

This standard covers the test methods and performance requirements applicable for waterheater supply shutoff valve with a thermal expansion control valves for use on closed plumbing systems.

This European Standard specifies, dimensions, materials and performance requirements (including methods of test) for expansion valves, of nominal sizes from DN 15 to DN 40, having working pressures 1) from 0,1 MPa (l bar) to 1,0 MPa (10 bar).Expansion valves are intended for fitting to the cold water supply of storage water heaters, having a maximum distribution temperature of 95 °C, for all energy sources.

Expansion valves do not control the temperature and alone does not constitute the protection required for storage water heaters. Expansion valves limit pressure, in the water heaters to what they are fitted, that is produced by thermal expansion of the water .NOTE : The use of the device specified in this Standard does not override the need to use controls (e.g. thermostats and cut-outs) which act directly on the power sources of water heaters.

"THERM-X-TROL® Water Heater Expansion Tanks", [web page] Amtrol,1400 Division Road, West Warwick RI USA 02983, Tel: 800-426-8765, Website: www.amtrol.com, retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/thermxtrol.html

"THERMAL EXPANSION TANKS for POTABLE WATER, Installation & Operation Instructions" [PDF], Models ST-5 through ST-201V & Models T-5 through T-12, Amtrol, Op. Cit., retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/thermxtrol/9015087_06_16_Thermal_Expansion_Tank_IO_.pdf

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

Similar products manufactured by Watts are described at WATER HEATER THERMAL EXPANSION PRODUCTS - WATTS [PDF] https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Watts-Thermal-Expansion-Products.pdf

My hot water tank has a Thermal Expansion Control Valve installed on the cold water intake line (rather than an expansion tank). In the past 2-3 days, I have noticed that there is a small amount of water constantly draining out of this Valve/Tube.

The leakage is constant, even during/after a long hot shower, which presumably would drain a lot of the hot water out of the tank and temporarily stop any thermal expansion/condensation. It is important to note that the T&P valve on the water heater itself is fine, there is no leak or release of pressure/water happening there.

(Why else would it still leak when the hot water tank is being drained and cold water is entering the tank?). Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this? I"m pretty sure I should be calling in for a repair, but unsure how urgent. (Am I at risk of a BLEVE explosion given the leak is constant, even when the tank should not be up to temp/pressure and even the pipe between the tank and the valve feels cold?).

It is possible on SOME water heaters to set the temperature above 210°F (99°C) but in my experience that would be unusual - you"d have probably scalded everyone using the hot water system.

1. It is already telling us that (usually) there is an unsafe condition such as pressure too high (water tank can blow up in a BLEVE explosion) or temperature too high (someone can be scalded - burned)

2. If it"s dripping just because the valve itself is old and defective the risk is that scale clogs the valve, it stops relieving, and then you"re missing a critical life-safety device.

the hot water heater has been shut down about one year , I lit the polite then went back a few hours later when I noticed the pressure relieve valve was spraying water out. so I shut the gas off. not sure what"s going on. ?

Continue reading at HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS for a solution to thermal expansion leaks at relief valves on water heaters, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1] "Residential Electric Water Heater Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide", American Water Heater Co., October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source: americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf [copy on file] [Technical review requested 1/25/2011]

[3] Pounds of lime deposited vs. temperature and hot water usage: see Purdue Bulletin #74 (also provided by A.O. Smith in the article below). Purdue"s chart shows the number of pounds of lime deposited per year as a function of the water usage in gallons per day, with an assumed 10 grains of water hardness.

[4] "When, Why, and How to Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Glass-Lined Water Heaters (for non glass-lined tanks, consult water heater manufacturer)" PDF provided by A.O. Smith Water Products Company - hotwater.com/lit/training/4800r9.pdf 800-433-2545 - 01/07/2009.

[6] A.O. Smith"s Form No. 4778* All about Deliming Coil-Type/Tube-Type Commercial Water Heaters and Hydronic Boilers *Normally supplied when ordering Part No. 4930 Motorized Deliming Pump Kit

[7] "Building Owner Water Heater Safety Notice", Building Department, City of Colleyville TX, web search 09/24/2010, original source: http://www.colleyville.com/dmdocuments/Building%20

Water heater safety is imperative to the occupants of a building or structure. If improperly installed, water heaters can be detrimental to the structure, as well as being potentially fatal to its occupants. The proper installation of a water heater is so important that according to Texas State Law all water heater installations must be inspected by a state licensed plumbing inspector.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

Being able to locate the pressure relief valve on your water heater is important. It’s the part of the machine which prevents the Temperature and Pressure from climbing to dangerous levels, which is why it’s sometimes called the T&P valve. Occasionally testing the valve or at least knowing what to look out for in case it’s the cause of any issues could save you a lot of pain and worry.

The squat ‘T’ shape of these metallic valves reminds some people of the head of a garden hose. One end is attached to the water heater. The end opposite to that has a knob or lever which could be used to manually open the valve. A pipe comes out of the third end.

No matter what kind of water heater you have, the pressure valve will be located either on the top or side of the unit. Most likely, it will be near the electric supply or hot water output tube.

Don’t confuse it with the drain valve, which is used to empty the water out of the heater. The T&P valve should be the only faucet with a long tube coming out of it and pointing down. That is the discharge pipe.

Most T&P valves are calibrated to automatically open if the heater’s internal pressure exceeds 150 psi or if the temperature exceeds 210℉. This prevents the unit from exploding. When the valve opens, hot air and water go down the discharge tube. If you notice the valve leaking or warm water pooling around your heater, consider calling a plumber. Most plumbers recommend replacing the valves at least every two years.

You could also opt to test it on your own before calling a plumber. Take care to wear protective clothing like closed-toed shoes and gloves. Placing a bucket under the discharge pipe, you could manually open the valve by using its knob/lever. Wait for about three seconds and abruptly let go of the handle. If it fails to shut itself off completely, it is likely broken.

With these guidelines you shouldn’t have to hunt out your water heater’s user manual for the pressure relief valve. Replacing a relief valve can be a tricky procedure best left to the professionals. If you live in the Triangle area and want help from professionals with four generations of experience call Acme Plumbing at

It can be all too easy to forget about your water heater when everything appears to be working correctly. However, a stuck or faulty pressure relief valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to reach dangerous levels — with potentially explosive results. Therefore, testing your water heater pressure relief valve should be at the top of your home maintenance checklist.

You don"t need to be a professional plumber to check your water heater"s safety mechanisms. With the right knowledge, even novice DIY-ers can test their water heater pressure relief valves.

A water heater pressure relief valve is exactly what it says on the tin: a safety mechanism that prevents excessive pressure from building up in your water heater"s tank. Without it, there would be a risk of the tank bursting and flooding your house. A bursting water tank can also cause serious injury and damage to your home"s structure, so keeping the pressure relief valve in good working order is essential.

Pressure inside your water tank occurs when the water expands and produces steam as it heats. The hotter the water, the greater the potential for high pressure. Although some pressure is normal and can escape through the pipes supplying your fixtures, the pressure relief valve activates when the pressure exceeds safe levels. It releases some hot water and steam until the pressure level normalizes.

A water heater pressure relief valve is a short, flat lever attached to a pipe running through the water heater. Its location varies depending on what water heater model you have, but you can usually find it above the tank or high up on one of the sides.

Sometimes, a water heater"s pressure relief valve can get stuck due to a build-up of deposits. Corrosion can also damage the valve and stop it from working correctly. A stuck or broken valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to exceed the safe limit, so it"s crucial to test it regularly.

You can test your water heater pressure relief valve by opening it slightly with a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Don"t force the valve open if you feel resistance. You"ll know that your valve is working properly if you can see or hear water and gas escaping. If you can"t see water escaping, or you can"t turn the valve easily, it"s time to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve. You should also call a plumber if you see signs that the valve is leaking, such as water pooling on the floor under the tank.

Sometimes, a water heater pressure relief valve will start leaking after you test it, even if the test shows that it"s working correctly. You can often solve this problem by gently opening and closing the valve a few times to remove any deposits stopping it from shutting. Call a plumber to check and repair the leak if this doesn"t work.

You should test your water heater pressure relief valve once or twice each year. The more often you check the valve, the higher the chances of detecting a problem early and preventing a costly leak or burst tank.

One of the most effective ways to prevent problems with your water heater"s pressure relief valve is to ensure that the drain line is installed correctly. It should angle downwards and match the valve"s exhaust port size to allow water to drain properly and prevent corrosion. It"s also essential to use a drain line made from heat-resistant material, like copper. You should call a plumber to replace the drain line if you"re concerned that your installation is incorrect.

Insulating the drain line can stop it from freezing in cold weather. A frozen drain line will stop the pressure release valve from functioning correctly, even if it"s otherwise in good condition.

When you open a water heater pressure relief valve, the water that drips out will be very hot. Therefore, it"s essential to wear protective gloves and eyewear and avoid opening the valve all the way. You may also wish to consider wearing protective clothing to protect your skin against burns.

You will need to replace your water heater pressure relief valve if it"s stuck or damaged. A plumber can tell you whether it"s best to repair the valve or replace it altogether. Furthermore, it"s wise to replace the valve every five years or so, especially if it hasn"t been tested recently.

The pressure relief valve on your water heater is an essential component to providing year-round comfort and keeping you and your family safe. Without this component, your water heater could overheat—causing it to break down. View our tips to become familiar about how this relief valve works and how to spot common issues.

You will find a water heater pressure relief valve on just about every standard hot water heater. Once the pressure and/or temperature inside your water heater gets too high, this component relieves the excess pressure. This decrease helps the temperature to return to a safe and stable level. The relief valve also prevents water leaks and keeps the water pressure from getting too low.

A valve is a one-way pipe that allows elements to pass through it. Here’s how a water pressure relief valve works: when the internal temperature of your water heater increases to a certain point, the appliance will naturally expand.

This expansion, however, should be limited. When the temperature gets too high, the relief valve opens to expel excess hot water and steam from the water heater so it doesn’t overheat.

You should always know where to find the pressure relief valve on your water heater in the case of an emergency. This device is typically located on the top or side of the appliance and is attached to an upward-pointing discharge tube.

If your water heater’s pressure relief valve has gone bad, you’ll probably know it. Here are the five most common signs that you need to repair or replace this device.

The most obvious and dangerous sign that your water heater pressure relief valve has gone bad is if it causes flooding in your home. If you experience this problem, cut off the water supply and have a professional come out to fix it.

Two common water heater sounds are rattling and whistling, both of which result from built-up steam that can’t escape the unit. If the steam can’t escape properly, that means the pressure relief valve isn’t working.

As the water heater pressure relief valve ages, it can start to corrode and make the water in your unit dirty. If this becomes a consistent problem, have a technician take a look at the valve. You’ll likely need to clean, repair, or replace it.

Since the pressure relief valve removes excess hot water from your unit, it will naturally leak some water from time to time. But if it leaks excessively and often, you’ll need to take a look at the valve.

While it’s normal for some water to leak from the pressure relief valve, the unit itself should never leak water. This can happen when the valve doesn’t properly relieve pressure from the unit and, in response, the tank ruptures.

If you’re looking for safe, reliable, and high-quality water heater repair and water heater installation services in the Northern Virginia area, call our team of technicians by phone at (703) 543-9649. With 50 years of experience in the HVAC and plumbing industries, we have become the trusted choice for achieving premium home comfort. In addition, our team of licensed plumbers offer other types of plumbing services such as sink installation, sump pump repair, gas line installation, and sewer line replacement. Our team of technicians won’t let you down. Schedule an appointment with one of our technicians today.

A leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve is a major concern, especially if it’s the first time dealing with this problem. While some people tend to panic and get help immediately, others may just shrug their shoulders and assume that the leak is a common occurrence. However, there are many causes of leaks in water pressure relief valves. And all these must be addressed immediately given the high risks of property damage and hazards that can occur if the issue is ignored.

The pressure relief valve gives steam and water a chance to escape when either the pressure or temperature in the water tank gets too high. A malfunctioning valve can cause the water heater to explode and is the major cause of water heater explosions. In water heater pressure relief valves, the valve is set to open when the pressure exceeds 150 psi.

A leaking valve is not always a broken valve. In some cases, a water heater’s pressure relief valve may leak because it is functioning as intended. As excess pressure is relieved out of your water heater system, some water may leak. This necessitates the need to test the pressure in your water heater.

The process is not complicated. However, if you are not comfortable checking the water pressure, you can always contact your technician. To test the pressure, use a pressure gauge and attach it to either the cold-water pipe or the hot water pipe. However, one of the easiest places to connect the pressure gauge is the outdoor hose faucets. For this, ensure you purchase a pressure gauge that is designed for garden hoses.

Turn off all water outlets and faucets. The pressure reading should be between 40 psi- 80 psi. If the gauge shows a psi reading of 150 and above, then the cause of the leak could be high pressure. If the water pressure is normal and the leak is persistent, then high water pressure is not the cause of the leak.

If you get a high-pressure reading, then you could be dealing with a closed plumbing system issue. This means that when the water is heated, the pressure increases as it should. But with nowhere to go, the valves open to relieve the pressure. Luckily, this can be solved by installing an expansion tank that gives the pressure an outlet other than a pressure relief valve.

Although rare, your water heater’s pressure relief valve could be leaking as a result of excessively high temperatures. However, the water has to be near the boiling point. To check the water temperature, ensure you turn on the hot water faucet. Run the water for one minute and use a meat thermometer to take the temperature reading. The temperature should be around 120 degrees. If more than this, then you need to have the water heater checked. The water temperature would need to be close to 212 degrees to set off the relief valve.

While this is an uncommon occurrence, it is not far-fetched. Your technician could have used a pressure valve for another appliance since they have the same function. However, these other pressure relief valves are set to go off at a lower psi. For instance, boiler pressure valves go off at 30 psi. If installed in a water heater, you are likely to get leaks immediately after installation. As such, if you have had your water heater for years and only experienced the leaks after a long period, then this is an unlikely cause of the leak.

A slight leak may occur if your water heater’s pressure relief valve has not been opened for a while, say a few years. While this leak is normal and may not be an indicator of a problem with the water heater system, you may need to replace the valve if the leak becomes more serious. It is cheaper to replace the entire valve than to repair it and have to deal with the same problem later on.

A leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve could also be caused by a faulty pressure relief valve. While pressure relief valves barely break down, excessive wear and improper installation can cause extensive damage. Unfortunately, a faulty pressure valve can not be repaired and must be replaced. However, the cost of pressure valves is affordable and ranges around $30.

Know your water heater and how it functions– Water heaters can be intimidating, especially for people with less technical know-how.  Understand what every part of the system plays in heating water such as the water shutoff valve, drain valve, thermostat, and pressure relief valve. This eases the maintenance routine and ensures you have a fair understanding of any malfunctions.

Insulate the pipes and the water heater– By insulating both the cold water and hot water pipes, you get to prevent condensation while also reducing heat loss. Also, insulating the water heater helps to keep water hot when surrounded by cold air.

Carry out regular maintenance– Inspect your water heater monthly, ensuring that all valves and pipes are in good shape. This also helps you catch corrosion and leaks early enough before they turn out to be bigger problems. And every year, carry out a water heater flush. Given that you cannot pinpoint all problems, have a qualified technician inspect the system annually.

Regardless of the possible cause of a leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve, please contact a qualified plumber as soon as possible. And if you think it’s a problem that you can solve without getting help, ensure you have a qualified plumber confirm that the system is performing optimally after. Water heater issues should not be taken lightly as they can cause more issues, even explosions.

Your water heater makes life convenient. Hot baths and showers, warm water for dishes, and washing clothes – it’s all become a part of daily life for many. However, a malfunctioning hot water system isn’t just frustrating, but a danger as well when highly-pressurized tanks become involved. Upon troubleshooting your water heater, you may find that it’s your water heater pressure relief valve(TPR valve)that’s giving you a problem.

Fortunately, this is a fairly common problem and is generally quite easy to identify when you know the right signs to keep an eye out for.Here’s how to tell if a pressure relief valve is bad.

Your gas or electric water heater’s temperature and pressure valve (or T&P valve) is a crucial safety feature that a professional should routinely inspect.

As the name suggests, this part helps to relieve pressure on the water tank when necessary. When the water cools and heats, it contracts and expands over and over again, at times placing a great deal of pressure on the inside of your hot water tank.

In most water heaters, the superfluous water will travel back up the cold water inlet and back to the home’s water supply. However, in homes with valve checks or one-way valves and pressure regulators, this is impossible, meaning the water stays in the tank and pressure continues to build. The pressure relief valve lets a bit of this water leak out when necessary in order to keep this pressure inside the tank at safe levels.

Before you can check your valve for damageor learn how to tell if a pressure relief valve is bad,you’ll have to find it. The valve in question is a small pipe that extends away from the tank in a downward direction.

Since it’s a rather simple, straightforward part, issues with a pressure relief valve are typically easy to spot. There are five telltale signs to keep an eye out for if you’ve been experiencing issues with your water heater.If you want to know how to tell if a pressure relief valve is bad, watch for these common signs:

Flooding:Water should never be gushing from the valve. If this occurs, turn off the water supply immediately and contact your plumber for a proper assessment and fix.

Excessive noise:If your hot water heater is rattling or emitting a high-pitched whistling noise, it’s likely the sound of steam trying to escape the tank, which is a sign of far too much pressure pressing against the inner walls. This means the relief valve isn’t doing its job and may need replacing.

Debris in water:Pressure relief valves do go bad, and debris can be one indication of this problem. If you find excessive debris or rattling continues after you turn off the water and attempt to clean your valve, you may be dealing with significant corrosion. The part may need to be replaced, and a plumber should be called for a full evaluation of your tank.

Ruptured tank:Water should never leak from the tank itself. If you’ve found water coming from the seams of the water heater, you may be dealing with a tank rupture. This occurs after pressure buildup has been left untreated for a long time and is a direct symptom of the valve being unable to release excess water properly.

Leaking:The pressure valve should leak while doing its job, but it shouldn’t be leaking a considerable amount of water and shouldn’t be doing it often. If it seems like the valve just never stops leaking, you’re likely dealing with a problem. It could mean that your water heater is very frequently overheating or that your water heater valve is simply not holding in pressure as well as it should.

As you can see, pressure relief valvesdogo bad from time to time. Now that you know how to tell if a pressure relief valve is bad, you may want to know how to test the valve.

Are you still unsure if your TPR valve needs replacing? Before you go scouring the internet for an “emergency plumber near me now,” consider performing a test. You can test your temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure that it’s working properly—and, of course, safely. Follow these steps:

Take Off the Drain Pipe:Remove the drain pipe from the valve; you may require a plumber’s wrench to do this. Keep a heat-safe bowl or bucket below the line.

Check For Water:Ensure that only a tiny stream of water drains from the tank and into the bucket. If there’s no water flowing from the tank, it’s time to replace the valve.

If you’ve experienced any of these issuesdiscussed above, then yes, it’s likely that your pressure relief valve is bad.Pressure relief valves do go bad for several reasons, butfortunately, the fix is easy, especially when you have a group of knowledgeable professionals on your side.

When you need help with your water heater and decide to comb the internet for a “house plumber near me,” remember that you can reach out to the Whipple Service champions for a wide range of emergency plumbing services.

However, the job doesn’t end at the fix. To ensure your gas water heater is still in good working condition and ready to face the challenge of keeping up with daily hot water needs,contact Whipple Service Champions. Schedule an appointment to have your valve inspected and replaced and get your water heater back to normal again in no time.

On the side or top of your water heater tank is a valve connected to a metal or plastic discharge tube pointing downward. The valve is called a T&P valve, or TPR valve, for "temperature and pressure relief."

If all goes well, a TPR valve never gets used intentionally except during testing. But in the event of an emergency or malfunction, this valve is of critical importance. It can potentially prevent your water heater from exploding. Understanding how a T&P valve works will help you keep your water heater in tip-top shape and prevent possible damage to your home.

A T&P valve is a valve with an attached tube located on the outside of a water heater. The valve provides relief to the water heater if the pressure exceeds normal operating limits, usually 150 psi.

Mandated by all plumbing codes, the T&P valve relieves excess temperature and pressure in a water heater if either reaches a critical point. A water heater is a closed system, and thermal expansion is an inescapable fact of both normal and abnormal water heater functioning.

In a standard water heater, the water is heated by a gas burner or electric elements. As the water reaches temperatures between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, both the water and the water heater"s metal tank expand.

Some expansion is normal, but too much expansion is unsafe. When the temperature reaches 210 degrees or the pressure reaches 150 psi (pounds per square inch), a properly functioning T&P valve opens and expels hot water and steam through the discharge tube.

When you purchase a water heater, the T&P valve generally comes pre-installed. A threaded inlet is welded onto the side of the tank. This inlet cannot be removed or replaced. The T&P valve is screwed clockwise onto that inlet.

Because the T&P valve is rarely used, mineral build-up can cause it to stiffen over time. This is a significant safety hazard because, in the event of a temperature or pressure spike, the T&P valve may not open as it should and the water heater might explode.

Water heater manufacturers recommend regular checking of the T&P valve. Wear closed-toe shoes to avoid scalding. Except for a bucket, no tools are required.

Before you begin, make sure you know where the shut-off valve of your tank is. It"s usually located on the cold water feed, on the right side inlet on top of the tank.

Release the lever and let it snap back to its original position. If the lever does not snap back into place, the valve is faulty and must be replaced.

In most cases, there are two problems you might have to address with the T&P valve: a valve that leaks by constantly dripping or a valve that sticks and doesn"t open and close properly.

When a T&P valve is leaking, it may be due to the valve not being properly seated in the threaded opening of the tank. This is especially likely if the leaking occurs immediately after an old valve is replaced. This can be remedied by shutting off the water heater and letting it cool down completely, then removing and rethreading the valve into the tank"s opening.

If the valve is leaking due to dirt or sediment trapped in the relief port, pull the metal spring lever back again and discharge water into the bucket. Once the lever snaps back again, if the water fails to stop completely, shut turn the gas valve to the off position and shut the water off to replace the valve.

A water heater that periodically discharges hot water and steam from the T&P valve may be set to a water temperature that is too high. Make sure that the water temperature setting is in the normal recommended range—about 120 degrees Fahrenheit—or no more than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

When stuck downward, the valve cannot provide relief if the system reaches maximum pressure. As a result, the water heater tank might rupture. When stuck in a fully extended position, the T&P valve will continually leak water down through the discharge tube, potentially flooding the home.

The stickiness of the valve can sometimes be remedied by simply opening and closing the lever several times. Jiggle the T&P valve by gently pulling the lever towards you. Much like jiggling a toilet handle, this action may be enough to unstick the valve. If this does not fix the problem, replace the valve.

However, some caution is necessary whenever working with a water heater, because the T&P valve can become damaged if the water heater has exceeded maximum pressure or temperature levels. If you suspect a pressure-related problem with your water heater tank, hire a licensed plumber to have the water heater inspected.

Turn the hot water heater control valve to the off position and the temperature dial to its lowest setting. Turn off the water supply to the heater at the valve located on the cold water line running to the tank. Alternatively, turn off the water at the house supply valve.

Open a hot water faucet to release pressure on the lines. Position a 5-gallon bucket under the tank drain valve. Drain enough water from the tank to bring the level below the relief valve. Generally, draining 5 to 10 gallons is sufficient if the relief valve is located toward the top of a 50-gallon tank. Exercise caution during the draining procedure; the water is still very hot.

Examine the relief valve discharge line, which should run in a downward direction from the valve toward the bottom of the tank. You can remove a straight line in one piece, but some discharge lines are plumbed so that they run to a location other than the base of the tank, such as a remote drain. Obtain the necessary clearance to remove this type of line by cutting it with a hack saw or close-quarters tubing cutter at a point at least 2 inches below the valve.

Grasp the nut-shaped connector threaded into the relief valve using a pipe wrench or a large pair of slip-joint pliers. Turn the connector and attached section of discharge line counterclockwise to remove it from the valve. Set the discharge line aside for reuse.

Remove the relief valve from the hot water tank by turning it counterclockwise with a large pipe wrench. Depending on the age of the valve, considerable force is often required. Clean the threads of the relief valve opening using a wire brush, then wipe away any debris with a rag. Discard the old valve or set it aside for recycling.

Apply sealant to the threads of the new relief valve. Insert the valve into the opening in the tank and thread it hand-tight. Tighten the valve three to four more full turns using a pipe wrench. Align the valve so that the opening points downward toward the bottom of the tank.

Clean the threads of the discharge line connector with a wire brush, then wipe away any debris with a rag. Apply sealant to the threads. Thread the connector into the relief valve discharge opening and tighten it with a wrench. The opening of a straight discharge line should terminate in a safe location within 6 inches of the floor, or as called for by your local plumbing code.

Turn on the water supply to the hot water heater. Allow air to bleed out of the hot water lines through the faucet you opened earlier, then close the faucet. Flip open the lever on the relief valve for several seconds to check it for proper operation. Close the valve and check for leaks.

Everybody knows that electricity and water don’t mix. It’s no different when your hot water heater is leaking. Having a gas water heater doesn’t necessarily protect you from this risk, either. Many gas heaters use electricity to keep thepilot light ignited. You can’t always tell this is the case by simply looking for a plug leading from the heater to an outlet, either; some gas heaters that use electricity don’t rely directly on the mainline.

This is less of a step and more of a precaution to keep in mind as you handle your hot water heater that’s leaking. Unlike water softeners (you can read about water softener leaks here), the water in your heater is, well, heated. Most water heaters in Phoenix ship with a default setting of 140 degrees Fahrenheit. If you’ve ever had the system adjusted by a professional, they likely only turned it down to 120 degrees, which is the recommended temperature.

You can read the very detailed steps for doing this in our article on cleaning water heaters. As a general overview, this process involves switching the thermostat off, opening your faucets to avoid creating a vacuum, connecting a hose to your drain valve, activating the valve, and allowing the tank to drain into a container or floor drain.

That little puddle of water around the water heater has you worried. It doesn’t seem to get bigger and sometimes it looks like it’s altogether disappeared.

It may be therelief valveon your heater. Commonly referred to in the trades as a T&P valve (temperature and pressure relief valve), this little fella has a very important job to do.

Have you ever seen that insurance TV commercial where the water heater explodes through the roof of the house and winds up in the street out front? If not – Google it. It’s a good illustration of what can happen if the T&P valve is not working properly.

That little brass valve on the side or top of your water heater is designed to let water or steam out of your water heater when the temperature or pressure inside exceeds the safe operating limits.

If you have abackflow preventeron the water service coming into your house, and you have no, an improperly installed, or a defective expansion tank on your water heater, the pressure in the tank will exceed the operating limits of the heater every time it heats up and the relief valve will do its job—it will release the extra pressure in the form of hot water through the valve and onto the floor.

The next reason might be afaultyrelief valve. As the water heater gets older, the rubber washer in the bottom of the relief valve gets harder and harder.

Then when you test the relief valve during periodic maintenance, the washer may crack or crumble just enough to create a leak. If you don’t test the relief valve periodically (you do test it, right?) then the washer may even stick to the bottom of the bottom of the valve (called the seat) and crack or crumble the next time you do test it. The solution is to replace the relief valve.

At Yes! Plumbing we find several faulty relief valves a year when we are doing our yearly free maintenance services for our Club Members. For this reason we carry them on the trucks and are prepared to replace them if they turn out to be faulty when tested.

Water heater temperature and pressure relief valves, or T&P valves, are a safety feature found on all tank water heaters. The valve should always be in good working order to ensure the water heater is safe in the event of extreme pressure buildup. It’s designed to open temporarily and discharge short spurts of water when the temperature exceeds about 210 degrees F, and it releases pressure if the tank gets above 150 psi. It’s important to locate your hot water heater pressure relief valve so you can test it at least once a year and address leaks as they occur.

The T&P valve is usually located high on the side or on top of the tank. It’s connected to a pipe that runs down the length of the water heater and stops a few inches above the floor. The valve itself consists of a flat, inch-and-a-half-long lever that lifts and lowers when water is released to reduce the temperature and pressure within the tank.

It’s recommended that homeowners test the hot water heater pressure relief valve at least once a year to make sure it’s functioning properly. Now that you know where the T&P valve is located, you can test it with ease.

The most important test is to ensure the T&P valve operates correctly. If it doesn’t, pressure could build up inside the tank and become a safety hazard.

Before you test the T&P valve, make sure a pipe is connected to it that guides discharged water to a floor drain or basin below. Then, lift up on the lever and listen for water discharging from the tank and exiting the pipe near the floor. This indicates a successful test and tells you the valve is working correctly.

If water doesn’t discharge from the valve, or the lever is stuck in the closed position (don’t apply excessive force to open it), this could mean naturally occurring mineral deposits are blocking the waterway, rendering the valve inoperable. Turn off the water heater and call a plumber immediately to replace the valve.

If you hear the sound of trickling water coming from the hot water heater, the T&P valve may be leaking. This could mean the valve is defective and needs to be replaced. It could also indicate that the water pressure regulator valve or thermostat is faulty. Or it might mean the valve is doing its job by releasing excess pressure inside the tank.

All of the potential reasons for a leaky T&P valve demand attention, but first you must test whether your valve is leaking. Check for water pooling around the tank. Then, touch the drain line with your hand to see if it feels warm. If so, this is where hot water is leaking out of the tank. Hire a plumber to determine the cause of the leak and replace the hot water heater pressure relief valve if necessary.

Many manufacturers require an inspection and replacement of the T&P valve every two to four years, depending on local water conditions. Any signs of corrosion or scaling indicate the need for an immediate replacement.

If you notice problems with your water heater, or you can’t remember the last time you had the pressure relief valve inspected or replaced, contact Mr. Rooter Plumbing to schedule water heater repair today.

If you find your water heater leaking, you need to take action immediately. A leaking water heater may seem like a minor inconvenience, but in reality, it can quickly turn into a major problem. The average water heater has a 50-gallon tank and whenever water leaves the tank (drawn or leaking) cold water will quickly refill it to capacity.

As the tank is constantly refilling from the water heater leak, the area surrounding your tank will flood. Even a small amount of water leaking from your water heater can cause damage to your floors, sub-floors and walls. A significant flood could lead to hefty repair bills and damage to personal property. Water heater leaks can also be a health concern and lead to mold and mildew.

Not all water heater leaks are serious. Some can be repaired by simply tightening a connection. Others may need a little more attention, but you can probably do the repairs yourself, especially if you enjoy DIY projects.

Unfortunately, there"s also times when you"ll find your water tank leaking and you"ll either need to call a plumber to make the repairs, or purchase a new water heater.

If your water heater leak is not obvious, then you may want to do a little troubleshooting before turning off the water supply. Just because you have water under your water heater doesn"t mean that your water heater is leaking.

Furnace drain lines, water softener discharge lines, condensation, and other plumbing could be the source. These things can easily make it look as though your water tank is leaking, when in fact, the problem isn"t your water heater at all.

If you can"t identify where the water is coming from, you can dry the area and place some paper towels or newspapers down. Check back over the next couple of days. If the water returns, and you still can"t identify the source, there"s a good chance your water heater is leaking.

On top of your water heater there should be two pipes. One will be warm to the touch and the other cold. Some manufacturers even identify them with red and blue collars or paint.

The pipe that"s cold is the water supply line. It allows cold water to enter your water heater when hot water is drawn. Follow the line and look for a shutoff valve. Most water heaters have a shutoff valve on the water supply line.

There are two types of valves commonly used:Ball Valve - Ball valves have a lever type handle. Pull or turn the handle down to shut off the water supply.

Dial Valve- Dial valves (also called gate valves) have a wheel that needs to be turned clockwise to turn off the water supply. Turn the dial until it stops.

In this case, you may need to turn the water off using your home"s main shut-off valve. This will shut down all the incoming water to your house, including the water supply to your water heater.

How to Turn Off a Gas Water HeaterLocate the valve on the gas supply line. The line is usually within a couple feet of your water heater. It"s located near the bottom and connects to the gas control valve.

How to Turn Off an Electric Water HeaterLocate the breaker to your water heater in the household electrical panel. It will be on a dedicated circuit breaker.

Right now our goal is to identify the source of the water heater leak. Once you determine why your water heater is leaking, we"ll show you how to fix the problem.

If your water heater has a pool of water on top, there"s a good chance that the source of the leak is either the incoming water supply valve, cold water inlet, or the hot water outlet.

Whenever there are pipe connections, there"s a higher chance of a leak. Follow the cold and hot water pipes. Do you see any water? Are the fittings tight? Is there any leakage around the shutoff valve on the cold water supply line?

When pressure builds within the tank to an unsafe level, the T&P valve relieves the tank pressure by opening the valve and allowing some of the water out of the tank.

You can find the T&P relief valve on the top of your water heater or on the side. Look for a copper or PVC pipe that runs down the side of the tank towards the floor. This is the T&P drain pipe and it connects to the relief valve.

How to Determine if the T&P Valve is the Source of the Leak:Inspect the Tank: Check the area where the T&P relief valve enters the tank for signs of a leak.

Inspect the Valve: If the T&P relief valve is in the closed position and water is flowing from the attached pipe, the valve is defective and needs to be replaced.

Inspect the Valve: If the T&P relief valve is in the open position, it may be relieving excessive pressure from the tank (which is forcing the valve open). If this is the case, the leak is generally fixable, but the situation should be taken very seriously. We highly recommend calling a professional plumber.

Since the T&P relief valve is a safety device, and if this is the source of your leak, it"s important that the valve is either replaced, or a plumber is called as soon as possible.

Once you determine that the problem is coming from the T&P valve we"ll do some additional troubleshooting to try to isolate the problem. If the solution is to replace the valve, we"ll show you how.

If the T&P valve opens intermittently, or even daily, the cause may be due to normal water pressure expansion. This can be resolved by installing an expansion tank. Read our extensive article on expansion tanks HERE.

Check the area around the drain valve where it enters the tank. There should be no signs of moisture. If you do have moisture where the drain valve enters the tank, it"s lik