how to reset propane tank safety valve free sample

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Has your propane tank valve gotten stuck yet again? This can put a serious damper if you’ve planned a BBQ, or literally anything that requires your propane tank. But here’s some good news: this article will tell you exactly how to unstick a propane tank valve.

Before we move onto the meat of the matter, you need to understand how your propane tank works. This applies to anything that runs on propane: fireplaces, water heaters, stoves, gas grills, and even RVs. Knowing how your tank operates will make it easier to troubleshoot minor issues.

A basic tank is filled with propane liquid and uses a special machine that forces the propane gas into the tank under pressure, turning it into its liquid form. It remains pressurized in the tank until the valve is released. When the valve is turned, the pressure decreases and the gas converts to vapor and escapes through the opening.

The propane gas is allowed to escape the canister under a certain pressure determined by the size of the valve. Large commercial propane tanks have multiple valves and gauges.

The main valves are the fill valves to refill the tank, a service valve to release the propane, and a relief valve. The relief valve prevents too much pressure from building up in the tank and exploding.

Tanks also have gauges that measure the level of liquid in the tanks called a float gauge, as well as a vapor recovery valve that can be used to release excess vapor in the tanks when getting it serviced.

The tanks are often closed very tightly to prevent leaks. If your propane tank won’t open after you bring it home the first time, try using a wrench or a pair of pliers. You can also unhook the tank from your stove and apply a bit of oil to the valve, before trying to yank it open with pliers.

Before you try to fix a propane safety valve (or any other tank valve), you need to identify the cause of the blockage. This will determine what you need to do to correct the issue.

The most important thing to bear in mind is that propane is highly combustible. When correcting a faulty tank valve, make sure you don’t puncture the tank and cause more damage. Safety is always a priority, so work in a ventilated area and do not light matches or lighters near your tank.

Set the propane tank on a steady, level surface. Make sure you are in a dry and cool area. Carefully check the tank for any signs of obvious damage and try to find the source of any possible leaks.

Wrap the rubber band around the outer edges of the valve to get a better grip on the blocked valve. Once you get a firm grip, twist firmly to loosen and dislodge the valve with your hand.

If this doesn’t work, spray a bit of oil or lubricant on the valve. Shake the valve back and forth to loosen it up, and then try to twist it open once again.

If the valve is still stuck, use a pair of pliers or a wrench to force it open. Grasp the edge of the valve with your pliers firmly and twist counterclockwise to open the valve. Try not to use too much pressure or as this can break the valve instead.

If your valves have rust or water damage, assess the situation. If it is still in the early stages, you can use baking soda and vinegar to get rid of the rust. However, if it is too far gone, you will need to replace the valve.

To avoid the fuss of a propane tank valve that needs to be dislodged, you can follow a few simple steps to prevent it from happening in the first place.

Don’t twist the valve closed too tightly. This might sound obvious, but people tend to close the valve really tightly, especially after a refill. Shut it tight, but don’t overdo it.

After buying a new tank or refilling your old one, smack the bottom of the tank on the ground once or twice. This will loosen the valve so you can open it more easily.

Don’t open the valve of a new cylinder rapidly as this can make it get jammed the next time. Instead, test the water and work it slowly and carefully.

If your propane tank leaks when connected, you most likely need a new valve. Check for the site of the leak by spraying soapy water at the valve, connection point, and pipes. If you see bubbles at the valve or connection, the gasket is broken and the valve requires replacing.

Soak the hose for a few minutes in warm soapy water to clean it. Use grease-cutting dish soap or something similar to break down accumulated oil and debris. Rinse the hose thoroughly under running water and allow it to dry.

The propane tank shut-off valve is your best bet during leaks if the hose or valve isn’t the one behind the leaks. The service or shut-off valve is the metallic spigot-like dial located under the tank cover and hooked to the top of the tank.

You need to use this valve to turn the gas off at the tank in the event of an emergency or leak. Always turn this valve to the right (clockwise), completely to shut off the gas.

This kind of valve is required on all large 4-to-40-pound commercial cylinders in vapor service. The OPD valve is a protective device and is exactly what it sounds like. It prevents the tank from overfilling.

Place the open jaws of the crescent wrench over the large bolt of the tank’s gas regulator. This is located at the meeting point of the propane tank and the gas regulator. Use the thumbscrew to grip the jaws around the large nut.

Then, loosen the nut with the wrench. Continue to remove the nut by hand until you can pull the neck of the regulator from the propane tank connection. You may catch a small whiff of gas as the regulator’s neck is pulled from the propane tank, but this is nothing to be worried about.

Remove the tank from the grill’s cart. In some models, you might have to loosen a safety strap. Store the empty tank in a safe and dry location, outdoors and well away from any flames.

It is perfectly normal to smell a little propane as tiny amounts can leak when the tank is in use. You can also smell the gas when the tank is nearly empty.

It is common for a propane tank to hiss. Hearing this sound is an indication that your tank is leaking so shut off all the valves and check for the location of the leak.

It is always a little scary when dealing with gas tanks, as we are well aware of the risks. However, knowing how to handle any kind of malfunctioning will make it much easier to deal with.

Once you know how to unstick a propane tank valve, you can loosen the valve or spigot without any trouble. And this will make the process of grilling much easier. Happy cooking!

Every once in a while I get frustrated-frantic with a tank. I shut it off, get a full one and put it on my big Weber grill. Open it slowly, always works. Then like a dummy I take the partial in for a fill but only when I have one or two more empties. I like to make it worth the trip.

Just got my winter supply at the house. It cost $.99 per gallon so the price they charge to fill a 20 lb tank (about 4.5 gallons) costs .89 a pound. A well to do guy in my home town was filling his own 20 lb tanks off of the 500 gallon house tank with some creative plumbing he had assembled. Had a slight accident and though he did not get burned, he did burn up his garage and half of a very nice house.

Before you go into panic mode, we’ll show you exactly how to troubleshoot this common issue and get your propane-powered appliances up and running in no time.

This diagram of an example RV propane system will help you understand where each point is within your propane system (denoted in red), which you can use as a guide to help resolve your issue.

So, if your RV propane tank is full, but there’s no gas flowing, we can simply go down the following list of causes until we identify and resolve the issue.

Even if you’re pretty sure you turned the gas valve on, go double-check. If it is indeed on and your propane is still not flowing, continue on to the next cause.

In a propane tank, this is either a spring-loaded valve or ball which detects whether the gas inside is coming out too quickly. If it senses that this is happening, then it engages and stops the flow of gas.

Opening the RV propane tank valve too quickly can cause it to sense a leak. In other words, it will register a higher volume of propane flowing from the tank than would normally be expected and engage in “emergency mode” as a result.

Important: The excess flow valve could be engaged because of a leak. Ensure that there are no leaks in your RV propane system. If you don’t feel comfortable checking for and repairing propane leaks yourself, take your motorhome to a repair shop.

An RV propane regulator regulates the pressure of the propane gas coming from the propane tank. In other words, high-pressure gas flowing from your tank will go through your regulator, which lowers it to the proper level to be used by your propane-powered appliances.

As you can see in the diagram above, the regulator sits between the RV’s propane tank and the rest of the system. This is the same whether you have two propane tanks, or just one.

RV Propane regulators have a 10-15 year lifespan. So, if your pressure regulator is reaching that point, it’s time to swap it out for a new one. They are extremely easy to install and inexpensive. Check out our RV propane regulator guide to find the best option for your RV.

Tip: You could also try to reset your propane regulator, which technically you already did if you followed the troubleshooting steps for the excess flow valve. Shut off the propane tank valve, turn off any propane-powered appliances, wait a few minutes, then slowly turn the propane tank valve back on.

The hose from the propane tank to the regulator can also cause the propane to stop flowing. In some cases, this hose will have a back check valve that can get stuck, thus restricting the propane flow.

This is a great feature to have. But if power is cut to the propane detector (or the solenoid that controls the propane supply), the propane will not be able to flow.

This is usually due to a dead battery or faulty wiring. So, check your battery and check to make sure power is going to the detector and solenoid. You should frequently test your RV propane detector to ensure it’s in good working condition.

The vaporized propane"s pressure is adjusted to between 3.5 and 5 PSI (in the case of Toyota’s). This is necessary since the fuel injector requires a precise pressure for combustion to take place

For that reason, we"ll stick to Toyota propane forklift troubleshooting in this article,focusing on the Toyota 8-Series fork trucks with 4Y engines built prior to 2020.

When a liquid propane tank is properly installed on a forklift, the fuel intake tube (in red) is pointed downward, allowing it to suck up the liquid fuel.

Additionally, cold temperatures can cause the regulator itself to freeze, which further prevents the fuel from flowing and ultimately the forklift from starting.

An example of an improperly-connected propane fuel coupler. The large space between the red tank-side coupler and the golden forklift-side coupler indicates that the quad ring has popped out of place

Those contaminants can be rust from inside of steel tanks, powder from the aluminum tank manufacturing process, paint chips, or any number of other particles.

Now that you’re aware of some of the issues with propane fuel itself, it’ll be easier to understand the role and importance of the fuel filter in a propane fuel system.

The fuel filter is a simple tube made of brass, copper, stone, or composite material that attracts contaminants from the liquid fuel that passes through it.

If you suspect that your fuel filter needs to be replaced, it’s best to call a qualified forklift technician. Because a forklift’s fuel line may contain pressurized liquid propane, changing the fuel filter can result in a release of that fuel. And if that happens, serious injury can result.

As we noted in the How Does a Propane Forklift Fuel System Work? section, the fuel solenoid acts as a “gatekeeper,” preventing or allowing fuel to flow from the fuel line into the regulator and beyond.

Fuel solenoid troubleshooting can get very complicated very quickly. So in these cases, it’s best to contact a qualified forklift technician to troubleshoot the root cause(s).

If you’re experiencing a no-start situation with your forklift, and you’ve traced it to the regulator, you should first check the various hoses and tubes going to and from the regulator.

REMINDER: Regulator maintenance should only be performed by a qualified forklift technician. Propane is extremely cold and can quickly cause serious injury if proper precautions aren’t taken.

Are all hoses to and from the regulator connected, snug, and free of any damage? (Only check when the forklift is off and the engine is cool. And make sure to follow all safety warnings and decals!)

The reason is that the regulator depends on the coolant from the radiator to prevent it from freezing as super-cooled liquid propane flows through it.

It could be the fixed liquid level gauge (bleeder valve), which is opened by the delivery person every time the tank is filled with propane. On occasion, the bleeder valve is not closed completely, whether due to driver error or debris blockage. If this is the case, simply turning the bleeder valve clockwise will close the valve and stop the flow of gas. This is not unheard of and is easily remedied by simply closing the bleeder valve. The hissing noise could also be coming from the safety relief valve. On hot days when the sun is high overhead and a propane delivery has recently been made, the safety relief valve may open slightly allowing excess pressure to vent. If the relief valve is opened, the protective cap will be removed from the top of the valve from the pressure buildup. Do not look into the relief valve or tap it with anything. Doing so may cause the relief valve to open all the way. One way to remedy the situation is to cool the tank down by spraying water from a garden hose on the surface of the tank. This will generally cause the relief valve to close. Lastly, it could be the regulator humming and the pressure needs to be readjusted. Just call our office and a technician will be happy to stop by and readjust it for you.

The design of the OPD valve is such that turning the cylinder service valve hand wheel will not produce any effect if the cylinder is not hooked up to an appliance. In other words, a connection must be made between the appliance hose end and the cylinders service valve. The inside of the OPD valve is engineered to only allow propane in or out if the internal valve is actuated by being depressed. This OPD valve feature adds additional safety in case the hand wheel is turned, opening the valve. For this reason, OPD equipped cylinders will not allow gas out of the cylinder when opened. The same is true for industrial forklift cylinders. Also, the hose end connection on either a fill hose or appliance supply line is designed to work only with OPD equipped cylinders. For the OPD valve to operate with the hand wheel open, the hose end connection must be securely attached. The hose end connection has an elevated brass fitting which is surrounded by acme threads. When attached to a cylinder valve and tightened, the brass fitting will push the internal valve open and allow gas to flow out of the cylinder to the appliance, if the hand wheel is in the open position. This fitting must be in place for gas to flow out of the cylinder. Otherwise, turning the hand wheel will not produce the intended result.

Freezing and frosting of propane regulators is quite common and usually nothing to be concerned about, provided everything is in working order and operating as it should. Frost can form on regulators connected to both propane cylinders and bulk (stationary) LP gas tanks. If in doubt about the safety of your regulator, turn off the tank service valve and contact your propane company. Further reading will help propane users understand the reasoning and causes of a “freezing” regulator. During normal operation propane regulators can become covered in frost, which may alarm some users. While this “freezing” of the regulator may be a symptom of a more severe problem, it’s usually is a sign that outside humidity is at a level capable of producing condensation. The only difference is, the condensation forming on a regulator is frozen. As described, propane regulators act as a barrier between high tank pressures and delivery pressure as required by downstream appliances and/or equipment. Once a propane appliance is actively in use, the liquid propane in a tank or cylinder begins to boil. The propane vapor, as boiled off the top of the liquid begins its journey downstream to the point at which it is used. Before making its way to the LP gas system piping, it passes through the regulator where its pressure is reduced to a usable level. Keep in mind that the regulator will only deliver a constant pressure on the outlet side while inlet pressures can significantly vary. As the propane passes through the regulator, it expands (resulting in sub-zero temperatures) and causes the regulator to gradually reach the extremely cold temperature of the propane vapor passing through it. Depending on the temperature and humidity of the surrounding air, the regulator will produce condensation, much like that of a frozen mug or glass taken out of a freezer. This is why, under normal operation in hot and humid climates, the external surface of a regulator will freeze and appear to be frozen or frosted. The rate at which propane is being withdrawn from the tank or cylinder will also cause the container to display a visible frost line, which indicates the liquid level of the propane within the tank. Although regulators can freeze under normal and “proper” operating conditions, there are times when regulators are freezing because of actual problems. One of the problematic issues causing a regulator to freeze is due to liquid propane entering and passing through the regulator. Liquid propane can produce an effect of extreme freezing when introduced abruptly into a regulator. There are two ways that liquid can be delivered through the tank (or cylinder) service valve: 1) If the container is overfilled or, 2) If the tank, usually a bottle, is not upright with the service valve communicating with the vapor space of the container. Both of these scenarios are possible and while avoidable, are not very common.

The only way to lock in a price is through our price protection program. Our customers who choose a variable “market” price plan cannot lock their price. These customers are charged a price based on the market price for propane on the day of delivery. That means a customer’s price on the day of delivery may be higher or lower than when they called to request the delivery. During the last heating season, propane prices started to rise, so on some days the price may be higher than when the customer called. In falling markets, our variable priced customers can potentially benefit from a lower price on the day of delivery.

Unless you are on a budget plan or have pre-paid in advance, you have 30 days from the date of delivery to make a payment. Just like any business, we also have to pay our suppliers and employees, so we appreciate payment on time. If we haven’t received payment in 30 days, we’ll send you a friendly reminder. We know that sometimes life happens – a delivery slip may be lost, or could be put in the bill drawer. If at any time you are having trouble making a payment, please call or email us and we can arrange for a payment plan. After 30 days, 1.5% interest is charged per month.

Charges resulting from interest, fuel surcharges, tax, service calls, labor, etc. are billed to the same account as your residential propane deliveries so they deduct from any credit on your account. However, your fuel credit will be replenished when payment is made for these charges.

If the tank is leased by Garrow Propane, then no. Our Garrow tanks come painted a sliver/gray color with a tan hood. If your Garrow tank is starting to rust or the paint is chipping please contact our office and we will put you on the paint list. Every summer we repaint the tanks on the list for that year. If you own the tank, you can paint it if you’d like, but not any color you choose. All too often propane customers take it upon themselves to paint their tank a color that complements the colors of their home or landscaping. This presents a safety problem as well as a serviceability problem if the tank color is dark or non-reflective. Dark colors absorb heat while lighter colors reflect it. Have you ever worn a dark colored shirt on a sunny day? A dark shirt on a sunny day will make you much warmer than a white shirt. The principle is the same with LP gas tanks, and the last thing a propane tank needs is to absorb heat. Perhaps a better example is walking barefoot on the concrete sidewalk and stepping onto an asphalt street on a hot sunny day. Concrete sidewalks are fairly light in color (heat reflective) while asphalt streets and roads are dark in color (heat absorbent). The sidewalk is much more bearable to walk on while the asphalt road can be quite painful. Propane tanks need to reflect heat, not absorb it. The entire reasoning behind propane tank color involves pressure and some simple laws of chemistry that apply to fluids and gases when they are heated. The law “as temperature increases, volume increases” applies. Because propane exists as both a liquid and a gas within the tank, the absorption of heat due to a non-reflective color creates the possibility of a high-pressure situation that may cause the safety relief valve to open. The bottom line is this: Dark (Non Reflective) Propane Tank = Absorbed Heat = Propane Expansion = Relief Valve May Open.

In its natural state, propane is an odorless gas. As a safety precaution, a chemical called Ethyl Mercaptan is added so that any presence of propane may be easily detected. The concentration level of ethyl mercaptan that is added to propane is not harmful.

No, propane is an approved, clean fuel listed in the 1990 Clean Air Act and the Energy Policy Act of 1992. Propane is one of the cleanest burning of all fossil fuels. Tests conducted by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency show that propane-fueled vehicles produce 30-90% less carbon monoxide and about 50% fewer toxins and other smog-producing emissions than gasoline engines. Propane also is nontoxic, so it’s not harmful to soil or water. In the event of a leak, propane will dissipate into a vapor, leaving no lasting effect on the surrounding environment

Propane tanks are most commonly referred to by their water capacity volume, and propane tanks are normally filled to 80% of its water capacity. For example, a 120 gallon tank will hold approximately 100 gallons of propane when completely full. Since propane is stored in a liquid state under pressure, it needs room to expand into a vapor. This extra “room” that is in the tank allows for that expansion. Depending on the ambient temperature outside, propane may expand more or less.

Safety is a part of everything we do. We charge a hazmat fee to help us cover the costs of ensuring the safety of our customer and employees. These measures include policies, procedures, gas check training, cylinder requalification, to our own facility and vehicle operations.

When you rent a tank, Garrow Propane assumes responsibility for equipment upkeep and maintenance of your propane system, including painting the tank and replacement of first-stage regulators. You are invoiced the tank rent only if you are a low volume user as your lease agreement states. In this case your usage does NOT cover the cost of equipment Garrow Propane has provided you. Those that use the minimum amount of fuel required annually, are not invoiced a tank rent.

When you run out of propane, you will begin to smell gas. This is the mercaptan that is sitting on the bottom of the tank that is added to make propane have an odor. There is no harm in this. If you are a will-call customer, there is a pressure check charge associated with the run out. The system needs to be pressure tested and we have to ensure you ran out of fuel for lack of looking at the gauge vs. you have a gas leak.

Year after year, your water heater serves an important role in your home. Your morning routine just wouldn’t be the same—or nearly as comfortable—without hot water. Yet, water heaters and their components do not last forever. Preventative maintenance is the key to ensuring that your water heater continues to safely provide your home with hot water. In this article, we’ll review a critical safety component of your water heater, the water heater pressure-relief valve.

If your water heater has stopped working, fill out the form to schedule a free VIP plumbing inspection here in the Chicago area. Our plumbers are available 24/7 to help you and your home!

The name is actually quite literal. It’s a valve that relieves excess pressure in the water heater tank. By doing so, it can prevent excess pressure buildup that has the potential to cause a tank burst and flood your home. It’s an unheralded but essential safety mechanism for your water heater.

As your water heater heats up the water in the tank, the water expands and steam is generated. The greater the heat, the more expansion that occurs. This expansion puts pressure on the exterior walls of the tank, but this is to be expected. Some degree of excess pressure escapes through the water pipes connected to the water heater. In the event that it cannot, the pressure-relief valve triggers. By releasing some of the hot water and air, the valve lowers the pressure back down to safe levels.

If the pressure-relief valve is unable to open, the pressure can continue to build inside of the tank past that 100 PSI ceiling. The heavy metal tank can withstand a lot of pressure buildup, but it eventually has its limits. The results are explosive, as the tank gives way, sending hot water flooding outward.

If your water heater has an emergency shutoff valve installed, the burst will be detected and the water supply will automatically shutoff. If not, you’re potentially looking at a flooded home with significant and costly water damage.

So, what causes the pressure-relief valve to fail? In many cases, the valve gets stuck or frozen in place due to the buildup of rust and corrosion inside the tank. Or, the valve is stuck due to a prior instance in which it released hot water.

A broken valve is something that should be fixed right away, but—unless you’re examining your water heater closely on a regular basis—may not be something most homeowners notice. That’s why regular testing and maintenance is important.

We recommend that homeowners here in Chicago test their pressure-relief valve when they flush out their water heater twice every year. Bundling your water heater maintenance tasks together makes sense, since each of these tasks takes about 10 minutes to complete.

Start by positioning a large bucket underneath the valve. You are going to release some hot water during this process, so you want to make sure you’re wearing safe clothes to reduce a scalding risk. Remove the drain pipe attached to the pressure valve.

Then, gently lift the valve switch so that hot water begins to come out of the valve and into the bucket. For the purposes of this test, don’t push the switch all the way up.

So long as water and air are coming out of the water heater during this test, your water heater pressure-relief valve is working as intended. On the other hand, if you’ve flipped the switch up and you’re not seeing any release, that could indicate a problem with the valve.

Did you know that most people use between 80 and 100 gallons of water every day? From using the restroom and showering to cooking and cleaning, your water usage is a crucial part of your daily home routine. Here are just a few daily tasks most homeowners do without thinking, and the corresponding amount of water it takes to complete them: Flushing a toilet: 1-3 gallons per flush

This doesn’t take into account washing your hands, taking a bath, or watering your lawn. Your water use may also skyrocket during the summer, when you’re drinking more water or cooling off in the sprinklers.

Taking all this into account, it’s crucial that your water systems are working at their full capacity. Your water heater delivers hot water to your home, and your water pressure needs to be sufficient for your appliances to work and for your showers to be comfortable.

For all your daily tasks to run smoothly, water pressure is especially important. Imagine not having enough water pressure to flush a toilet or take a shower. There are other consequences to having water pressure that is too high.

To get your water pressure checked and adjusted by a professional, call the team at King Heating, Cooling, & Plumbing in Chicago, Illinois. We’re the experts on all home systems and can make sure your home is running at 100% capacity.

It’s been a long day at work, and you want to come home, take a hot shower, and relax with the family. You turn on the shower to see a small stream of water—or droplets—coming from the shower head. Even when you turn the shower handle to full capacity, only a small amount of water drips out. What’s the problem?

Your water pressure is likely too low. This can be an annoying setback for many homeowners, who depend on high water pressure to shower, clean, cook, and more. How can you properly shower or wash your hands when only a few drops are coming out of the faucet?

On the opposite side of the water pressure spectrum, high water pressure can pose a danger to you and your family inside the home. When water pressure is too high, pipes can become damaged and systems can overwork themselves to bring that water to you. It’s just like the tale of Goldilocks and the Three Bears: you don’t want your water pressure too low or too high—you want it just right.

Low water pressure is usually just a nuisance to homeowners and doesn’t pose a serious problem. High water pressure, on the other hand, can damage fixtures, seals, joints, and more. Water pressure that’s too high can also waste a lot of water in the home, leaving you with a higher utility bill at the end of the month.

As it comes from the municipal water supply to your home, residential water generally ranges from 40 to 80 PSI (pounds per square inch). Anything above or below this range could be considered too low or too high. Some experts will say that any level above 60 PSI is too high of water pressure for your home. It’s best to speak with a professional plumber to get your water pressure checked and to learn more about what level is right for your home. Your PSI range can be affected by elevation, house size, water needs, age of your home, and other factors.

If you haven’t checked your water pressure level in a while, it may be time to call King for a free VIP plumbing inspection. Even if you feel your water pressure and water heater are working great, there could be hidden efficiency problems lurking underneath the surface, such as a water heater that is running too hot and wasting energy. Only a true plumbing professional can get to the bottom of the issue and help you save money, month-over-month.

This goes without saying, but if you’re not comfortable flushing your water heater or checking the valve, don’t just ignore this crucial maintenance need. Give our team a call and have us out to your home to perform this service for you. Remember, this preventative maintenance can help prevent a tank burst and major water damage.