wire rope dog run free sample

As much as we love to see "ol Fido running wild through streams and park lands, the local ranger and the neighbors don"t want to see him get hurt. Restricting your dog to a standard 6 foot leash is the minimum you can allow him in most outdoor public areas while camping, traveling, or enjoying outdoor events. Aerial dog runs greatly increase that roaming area while also providing safety.

The portable system features rope and adjustable hardware, specifically designed for travel in a variety of situations, whereas the permanent system utilizes cable with specific hardware that requires tools to secure the line.

2) The EssentialsThe Rope Line: If using rope, make sure it"s in good condition; if it breaks, your dog will be untethered. I recommend at least a 7mm rope with a good nylon core. Either static or dynamic is fine. Static rope may drag a little in the morning during cooler hours or with high dog activity. Use a bungee cord between the line and the anchor to keep it taut at all times. Dynamic rope stretches so a bungee is not useful here but these ropes are much more expensive than static.

Cable Line: If you"re using cable to set up a permanent system, I recommend using a 7x19 strand configuration for greater flexibility in order to create the loop ends more easily. We sell a 6.35mm aircraft cable that works very well with our pulley. There are sheathed and non-sheathed cables. Either is fine but I prefer sheathed cable. In hot dry weather, the nylon sheath will eventually break down and crack after a few years but its relatively inexpensive to replace. The sheath keeps the cable strands together where they are cut. Otherwise, the sharp strands will uncoil into a bunch of needles. It quite difficult to cut cable. It requires a cable cutter and stong force to break all of the strands evenly and at the same time, otherwise you"ll end up just conpacting the strands into a half-bent shape. Many hardware stores offer cutting assistance but make sure you measure out exactly what you need first before cutting. Keep the cable diameter between 5mm and 7.5mm. Sheaths also make the line quieter, which your dog will thank you for.

Hardware to attach the line to the anchor point (ratchets, line tensioner, bungees): If using a rope, you"ll want to utilize at least one ratchet to tighten the line. Even if you decide to use a permanent knot on one side, having a ratchet on the other side allows you to thoroughly tighten it and detatch it for storage or travel. A cable dog run requires you to loop the cable ends around either the line tensioner or the anchor point hardware, such as an eye-bolt or an eye-screw. The easiest hardware to secure a loop are cable saddles. They only require pliers or a socket wrench to tighten the bolts. Safe practice suggests to use two saddles for each loop.

Pulley restriction: Bumpers or rope/cable clamps are used to prevent the dog from wrapping itself around an anchor point if its a tree or post. For portable rope systems, you can use adjustable rope clamps. At a minumum, for a rope system, you could just tie a permanent knot into the line 6 feet from the anchor point. For anything more permanent, use cable saddle clamps like the ones used to create the cable loops. We use a rubber ball between the pulley and the cable claps to elliminate the noise when the pulley reaches the clamp.

Pulley: Frictionless movement up and down the line is important to give the dog a sense of freedom and to reduce the noise level. You don"t want to constantly remind the dog that he is tied up, especially if they suffer from anxiety or nervousness. Smaller dogs do much better with a pulley than without. Larger dogs can do much better without a pulley if you have limited funds. Use a smooth, oval carabiner in its place on rope systems. Sheath cable systems practically require a pulley. If you use a non-sheath cable line, the carabiner will contantly scrape the line, which will be quite unpleasant for the dog.

If you cannot control your dog’s barking, leave it at home. If complaints continue about your dog’s barking, expect a hefty fine or to be kicked out.Choose a campsite with shade or create shade. Let your dog dig a hole to further cool off in. Remember the ground is much hotter for the dog whose belly is exposed to the sunbaked ground. If water resources are not an issue, pour water into the hole to cool off the area.

Attach a disposable dog tag to the collar with your campsite or location written on it. Don’t rely on your phone to get your dog back when it wanders off into the hands of overly concerned strangers. Walk your dog around the campground so everyone knows it"s your dog. In case it gets free and runs around, you’ll have help from your neighbors identifying its whereabouts.

The Tie Out. We recommend the portable aerial Sky Track Dog Run by Rover Roamer. The Niteline phosphorescent (glow in the dark) and reflective line helps visibility at night.

We never recommend leaving your dog leashed or tied, nor left in the tent or car while you’re away. If they start howling for you to come home, your neighbors may complain to the ranger. Mountain lions can be a real threat and a tied-up dog makes an easy victim. Wild fires may be a possibility during the summer. You never know what shenanigans your dog will be up to once you walk away.

Barking Control: Build a den for them populated with familiar scents. Get a piece of tarp and either the old dog bed or some old towels and blankets with your scent or the dog’s scent on it. If your dog feels at home, he won’t bark so much every time you leave to visit the restroom.If you must leave them behind, observe their behavior for several minutes from a hidden vantage point. Take them with you if they start chewing at the leash or barking incessantly.Give them a favorite toy to play with if they require some comfort.Dog bones might seem like a good idea to occupy your dog while you’re away, but they can also attract wildlife.

Dog toys are often chewed up and torn apart by excitable hounds channeling their inner wild. The muddied carcasses of stuffed animal and plastic bits are often left behind once you abandon camp. Be mindful to clean up daily. I personally got tired of buying expensive dog toys only to have to pick up the ravaged pieces strewn about a garbage-littered campsite. Sticks, swimming, hiking, grazing for leftovers, and chasing chipmunks seems to be enough.

Food: Don’t feed your dog human snacks, left over hotdogs, and marshmallows and other “gas-rich” foods. When it comes to sleeping at night together in the tent, your nose and loved ones will thank you.Dogs become a little wilder in the wilderness. It’s not beyond them to steal your steak while you get up to pour your glass of wine. Don’t leave food where they can access it. There’s something about living outside that makes a dog think it"s on equal terms and all food is fair game. Also, be aware offood left out at night. This may attract bears, coyotes, rodents, etc. Your dog will keep you up all night barking at sounds. Store in the designated food bins, bear resistant food containers, or at last resort, leave in the car or hang from a tree.

Nighttime: Choose a reflective collar or harness and attach a light to it. It gets pitch black at night and latecomers will arrive at all hours of the night. Bring warm dog jackets for cold nights if their breed doesn’t fare well in the outdoors. Keep the dog inside the tent at night but crack the door open. We know dogs have a supernatural ability to suck all the oxygen out of a tent at night, making it stuffy and gamey, but it separates them from harmful critters like aggressive racoons and skunks.

If you have any worries that your dog may not endure long hikes, try taking them out on shorter hikes first to test endurance and hardiness. Even a short hike full of stimulation will have them exhausted at night.

Trail distance: Your dog may run up and down the trail but at 6,000 feet in the mountains expect some resistance halfway through your hike, especially on hot days. If your pooch is excitable and not quite used to the outdoors, try your best to manage your dog’s level of energy during the beginning of the hike by keeping them on a leash. A dog"s joints can be damaged by too much distance or too much exertion too early. A six-month-old puppy can safely exercise about 30 minutes twice a day.

Use a harness instead of a collar when on the trail to safely negotiate your dog’s passage. They are indispensable for hoisting up slippery rocks, cliffs, or fallen trees, crossing rivers or streams or really anything over your dog’s shoulders.Always have a short leash on hand for critical moments when you encounter aggressive dogs or wildlife.

Make sure your dog can respond to a “leave it” or “stay” command in cases that require a dog’s full stop command to avoid snakes, skunks, bears, horses, aggressive dogs, etc. Small dogs are prone to mountain lion attacks so treat them with special attention. If a bear chase ensues, be prepared for Rover to bring back an unwanted guest.

Be aware that prolonged exposure to rough or hot terrain may cause cracking, chaffing, cuts, and wear on the pads of paws for most dogs that are only acclimated to carpet, grass, and sidewalks.Periodically check for foxtails and burrs between the toes if your dog isn"t wearing booties. During the late summer months, the dry environment can be replete with them.

Backpacks: Don’t use a backpack until your dog is fully grown. Adult dogs can safely carry up to 25 percent of their own body weight. Invest in something nice. They are treated harshly by the dog and undergo more rigorous wear than our own pack. A dog can’t tell you if it’s uncomfortable or chaffing so a good pack will alleviate some common discomforts with better design.

You’ll enjoy watching your dog’s confidence and mental flexibility grow as it negotiates new terrain but be mindful of visible dangers however like canyons, jagged rocks, sharp knots protruding from fallen trees,and invisible dangers like poisonous mushrooms and berries.

Snakes: If your dog is bitten by a snake, immobilize the body part that has been bitten. Keep it at or below the level of the heart. Keep the pet calm and still. Carry the pet if possible. Get to a vet as soon as possible and try to identify the type of snake. Do not manipulate the bitten area any more than necessary. Do not cut over the fang marks. Do not ice pack or tourniquet the area.

Diarrhea: Common causes of diarrhea: kids feeding dogs human food, leftover old food from previous campers, stagnant water, horse manure and other feces, and over-heating/over-exertion. Boiled chicken and rice (no skin and bones) is a standard treatment if you have the resources to prepare it. Keeping the broth for water or putting a bouillon cube in the water dish may help them drink more if they aren"t interested in hydration. Keep an eye out for loss of appetite, vomiting, and lethargy.

An overhead cable running leash seems like a viable option for exercising pets and providing some level of freedom, without allowing them to roam free. Are these leashes safe?

If the leash and cable are adjusted and modified for the size of the dog, this type of run should be suitable for most dogs. However, this may not be the best route for dogs that are diligent diggers or that can be escape artists — unless you plan to supervise them closely.

When dog owners are trying to facilitate exercise and outdoor time for their pets, a cable run can be a great idea. These provide far more room to roam and area than being leashed to a porch, a stake, or even a tree.

Owners do need to observe their pet carefully to make sure they are a good candidate for an overhead run. See if your dog is frequently tangled, wrapped up, or trying to break free.

There are numerous online tutorials and videos regarding how to best construct an overhead dog run. You choose the style and instruction that suits you best — and that will make the most sensible run for your distinct dog.

The following list is an example of the basic items needed to construct one of these runs, but heed the recommendations and materials listed from the project instructions that you choose to follow.

Some dogs may acclimate well to an overhead cable run leash, but others may face difficulties. For one thing, many dogs feel abandoned when confined somewhere without their humans.

Tie them for a few minutes and engage them with play, but then untie them from the run. Over time, the dog may become more self-involved, and you can assess whether it appears secure and safe on the run.

If the overhead run is installed properly and is customized to fit the dog using it, it should be safe for dogs to use. If the dog has a propensity to escape, dig, or roam, make sure you supervise dogs when using overhead runs and leashes.

Chain rope clips work well with steel cable in a secure and sturdy overhead run. Find these and all the materials needed for your run at your local hardware store.

Running leashes are designed to be secure, strong, and comfortable. These special types of leashes are also found with collar attachments to keep things safe and secure. Some offer shock absorption, which helps make the leash more comfortable when it pulls on its neck.

Dog runs offer a way for your dog to get plenty of exercise and fresh air, so they are a good thing! These are typically safe, but some dogs may be escape artists who can break free without close supervision. You know your dog best to determine if a dog run is a viable option.

Dogs are very susceptible to heatstroke in hot temperatures, so don’t let them work out too rigorously in these conditions. Strenuous activity can impact your dog fast. Provide plenty of cool water and shade, and if possible, let your dogs stay indoors during extreme temperatures.

Runs should be suited and fitted to accommodate the dog using it, as smaller dogs may struggle with the extra weight of a cable, while larger pets may be able to break free.

The Humane Society of the United States believes that dogs are part of the family. We recommend that all dogs live indoors, receive regular exercise and are provided with adequate attention, food, water and veterinary care. Dogs living outdoors part or all of the time should be provided with a safe, escape-proof enclosure with proper shelter, where they may express natural behaviors.

To become well-adjusted companion animals, dogs should interact regularly with people and other animals and should receive regular exercise. Sometimes situations with tethered dogs can be improved incrementally, such as by bringing the dog indoors at night at least, so advocates should be open to options. Placing an animal on a restraint can be acceptable if it is done for a short period or while supervised and if the tether is secured in such a way that it cannot become entangled with other objects. Collars should be comfortable and fitted properly; choke chains should never be used. Keeping an animal tethered for long periods or during extreme weather and disasters is never acceptable.

Attaching a dog"s leash to a long line—such as a clothesline or a manufactured device known as a pulley run—and letting the animal have a larger area in which to explore is preferable to tethering the dog to a stationary object. However, many of the same risks associated with tethering still apply, including hanging, attacks on or by other animals, lack of socialization and safety.

If you are concerned about a specific dog who is tethered, you may want to consider asking your local animal care and control agency to pay the owner a visit. Even if tethering is legal, agents can make a friendly visit to see if they can improve the situation by helping the owner troubleshoot and gather resources to address the problem at its root (i.e. a behavior problem or repeated escapes). Most situations can be improved through positive engagement and support services; punitive measures can be used to address the most egregious of situations.

Trying to address dog chaining by “rescuing” all tethered dogs is not recommended for a number of reasons. First, most owners care about and want their dogs and it is critical to try and keep as many animals as possible in the homes they already have. Second, the owner is likely to replace the dog (because they like dogs) and tether future dogs. Removing the dog adds to the already overwhelming number of dogs competing for homes, and an animal sheltering and rescue infrastructure which is already well above capacity. Working with owners to improve the situations for their existing dogs is always the best option and our experience shows that most people are open to support.

As advocates, it is important for us to find positive, constructive ways to empower owners to unchain their dogs themselves. They will be more likely to keep their dogs untethered, keep future dogs untethered and spread the word to others they know who may tether their dogs. This also preserves precious resources of nonprofit animal welfare organizations or under-funded animal service agencies so they can be used for the serious cases of cruelty and neglect.

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We have a "dog run" in our back yard that we hook our dogs to when they need to go out. Their harnesses hook to a lead, and then lead in turn hooks to the wheel you see in the picture below. The wheel runs along a line that is about 40 feet in length. This way, they can run around the entire back yard (pretty much) without restriction, but are still bound by the run.

The problem is, one end of this run (the line you see the wheel running along) is sunk (drilled) into a tree, and my dogs always end up wrapping themselves around the tree. I"ve finally had it! I"m sick of having to put on my boots and tread some 50 feet out into my back yard to unhook them and unwind the lead from around the tree. The time has finally come for me to find a solution that prevents them from wrapping around the tree.

So now I"m considering putting something on the run itself; some kind of block that prevents them from getting to the tree in the first place. This would limit their run from about 40 feet to 30 feet, but I don"t think that will rob them of any exercise.

But if I just simply wind duck tape around the run, the first time they go running after a squirrel or something, the wheel will get lodged on the duck tape and then they"ll be stuck in the center of the lawn; plus I"ll have to go un-lodge them.

Dogs need plenty of exercise and free reign to roam. This often can conflict, though, with your neighbors and the integrity of your landscaping. While a fence around your property can keep your dog enclosed and safe, it doesn’t keep your dog from doing what dogs can do to your yard. Give your dog the outside space he needs while keeping your landscaping free of dog waste and destruction by building a dog run.

A dog run is a fenced-off, enclosed or otherwise separate area for your dog to exercise freely and to use a designated area away from your landscape. Fenced-in runs also protect your flower beds and other areas that a dog often gets into. It can be as simple as a designated area enclosed with chain-link fencing and/or just a mulched or graveled spot along the side of the garage. Or, they can be more complex, paved with concrete and enclosed with a roof for keeping dogs in the shade while they’re in the run.

First, choose the location for your run. Take into consideration how much space you require and how much you have to work with. Keep in mind that dog runs are most effective the longer they are, allowing dogs the room to run back and forth. The run does not have to be large — think of the shape as a narrow rectangle rather than a square, providing ample room to sprint up and down. However, a square run is adequate if that’s the only shape that will work in your yard. At a minimum, make a dog run that is at least 3" wide and about 10" long. Your dog’s size should be considered as well. Large dogs, of course, need more space than smaller breeds.

If your dog currently has a dog house or you want to build a dog house in your dog run design, be sure you allow room for it when figuring out the dimensions of the space.

Use a tape measure to figure out the dimensions of your dog run. For example, if the run will be 4" wide and 15" long, measure out the dimensions where you want the run located and mark them with a chalk line or with stakes and twine.

Use a level-headed rake, or better yet, a garden tiller, to remove the grass and loosen the topsoil in the staked off area. Dig out the dirt in the area to a depth of about 3" to 4". Then tamp down the soil with a tamper. If you’re just going to fill the area with mulch or wood chips and plan on training your dog to use the area without fencing, you’re almost done.

If you’ll be pouring concrete for the “floor” of your run, you’ll have to build a “form” to mold the poured concrete into the right shape. Use pieces of 2" x 6" lumber to create the form, cutting to fit when necessary, using a circular saw. Fit the pieces of lumber on their edges along the border of your dug out area until you have “walls” around the run location. Fasten the pieces together using wood screws and a power drill. See the steps for pouring concrete in Step 3.

For a simple mulched dog run, fill in the space you dug out with mulch, evening it and leveling it out with a level-headed rake until the mulch has completely covered the space about 2" above ground level. Frame the mulched area with railroad ties or similar large pieces of lumber to keep as much mulch as possible inside the area. Think of it looking sort of like a sandbox. Mulch or similar material such as wood shavings works well because it is easy to clean up and to replenish when needed. Using a rake, dog waste can also be mixed in and covered up with the mulch and it becomes almost composted. Over time, though, all the mulch will need to be replaced even if you’re diligent in cleaning up soiled spots regularly to avoid odors and other potential issues.

Cedar mulch can often be a good choice because the oils present in it can repel insects. Just watch your dog to make sure he isn’t ingesting cedar mulch, which can lead to health issues.

If you’re building a dog run with a concrete floor, spray the dug-out area with water from a garden hose so that it is soaked. This will keep your concrete from drying out too quickly when you’re pouring. Fill a wheelbarrow with concrete mix and water as directed by the manufacturer’s instructions located on the package. Keep in mind that it may take several wheelbarrows full, depending on the size of your run. Pour the concrete from the wheelbarrow into the dug-out area, spreading it out into corners and edges with a shovel. Fill the area this way until the concrete is just above the sides of the form. Even it out and level it using a board as a “float”, running it across the top of the slab until it’s even with the sides of the form and flat. When the surface has been smoothed, let it set for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer.

Fill the bottom of each of the holes you dug in Step 2 with about 2" of gravel or crushed stone for drainage. Mix dry concrete and water in a wheelbarrow as directed by the manufacturer. Place one of the support posts into a hole and hold it so it’s centered in the hole. It helps to have someone hold the post steady as you shovel the prepared concrete mix into the hole. Use a level to make sure the post is straight. Level the concrete off with a shovel, just a few inches on top of the hole. Slope the concrete around the base of the post to allow for water runoff. To reduce any air pockets, poke a small stick into the concrete in a few random places.

If you don’t have another person to assist you, use two long pieces of rope or wire to steady the post as you pour. Tie the rope or wire around the center of the post and use two stakes to secure the post in an upright position.

After gate installation, check to be sure that the gate doesn’t leave a gap on the bottom or either of the sides through which your dog can slip through.

To keep your dog in the shade, cover the top of your run with tarps. Using tarps instead of a permanent roof allows you to remove it when desired. Fasten the tarps to the top of the fence with plastic cable ties. These are easily replaced if you need to remove the tarp. It’s unlikely that you’ll need or want to cover/re-cover often.

This simple question does not have a simple answer. Instead, like many areas of the law, it depends. Even though a state might not require that an owner use a leash when the dog is off-premises, the law may allow impoundment of "at-large" dogs. A dog that is at large may be defined as one who is off the owner"s property unaccompanied or not on a leash. Further, a state may only require a leash in certain areas like parks and wildlife areas, or during the period between sunset and sunrise.

Only two states declare that a dog must be under the control of his or her owner when off the owner"s premises: Michigan and Pennsylvania. Michigan provides the clearest example of a statewide leash requirement. Section 287.262 states, "It shall be unlawful for any person for any owner to allow any dog . . . to stray unless held properly in leash." There are numerous exceptions in the law including working dogs, guard dogs, and hunting dogs.

Pennsylvania law is less clear as to the restraint requirement. The law states that is "unlawful for the owner or keeper of any dog to fail to keep at all times the dog in any of the following manners" :

[emphasis added] 3 P.S. § 459-305 . Dogs engaged in training or lawful hunting are exempted from this requirement. This language seems to imply that a person can have reasonable control while the dog is not leashed. In Commonwealth v. Glumac , 717 A.2d 572 (Pa. Super., 1998), the Court found the purpose of the law is to prevent roaming dogs:

The title of 3 P.S. § 459-305 concisely explains that the principle purpose of the section is the “confinement of dogs.” In enacting this section of the Dog Law, the legislature intended to require dog owners to prevent their dogs from running at large. See Miller v. Hurst , 302 Pa.Super. 235, 448 A.2d 614 (1982) . The protection of the public"s health and safety are attained when dogs are safely secured or accompanied when not so confined. See Baehr v. Commonwealth ex rel. Lower Merion Township , 51 Pa.Cmwlth. 241, 414 A.2d 415 (1980) .

While this case and the law suggest that one can simply accompany his or her dog, that person remains liable for any damage done by the dog should it stray out of control. If an owner disregards the law, he or she may be found negligent in a civil suit where the dog being off-leash caused harm to another. Indeed, one case held that an unexcused violation of the dog law requiring that a dog be either confined within the premises of the owner or firmly secured by a means of a collar and chain or other device, was negligence per se. Baehr v. Com. ex rel. Lower Merion Tp. , 414 A.2d 415, 51 Pa.Cmwlth. 241 (1980).

As observed in Pennsylvania"s law, a leash is not the only way to control a dog. In fact, some owners argue that a dog may be under the control of his or her handler by verbal or hand commands. In fact, most of the state "restraint" laws for dogs do not mandate leashes and instead outlaw dogs running at large.

Several states prohibit dogs "running" or roaming at large. Many states do this indirectly by giving local governments the authority to enact ordinances that prohibit dogs running at large (Mississippi, New York, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, South Carolina, Virginia, and Wyoming all have such laws). Other states directly prohibit running at large. Wisconsin law provides that a dog found running at large is subject to impoundment ( W. S. A. 174.042 ). In Wisconsin, a dog is considered to be running at large if it is off the premises of its owner and not under the control of the owner or some other person. New Hampshire declares a dog a "nuisance" if is at large, "which means it is off the premises of the owner or keeper and not under the control of any person by means of personal presence and attention as will reasonably control the conduct of such dog, unless accompanied by the owner or custodian." ( N.H. Rev. Stat. § 466:31 ). Minnesota allows any person to seize, impound, or restrain any unlicensed dog found running at large ( M. S. A. § 347.14 ). Maine and Louisiana both provide that it is unlawful for an owner to allow his or her dog to run at large. Delaware and Connecticut also make it unlawful for a person to allow his or her dog to run at large, meaning that the dog is not under the control of its owner.

A few states require that dogs be confined on the owner"s premises or not allowed to roam at large when a rabies quarantine order has been issued. In the case of Arizona, a rabies emergency requires that owners either confine the animal or use a leash not to exceed six feet in length when not on the owner"s property ( A. R. S. § 11-1012 ). When a rabies quarantine is issued by the health department in Ohio, a dog is not permitted to leave the premises of its owner or keeper unless under leash or under the control of a responsible person ( RC § 955.26 ).

Other state leash laws are specific to the area the dog is taken by his or her owner. For instance, an owner in Alabama is guilty of a misdemeanor if he or she does not leash his or her dog in a state wildlife area ( Ala. Code 1975 § 9-11-305 ). Likewise, New Hampshire makes it unlawful for any owner or custodian of any dog to permit such dog to run at large in territory inhabited by game birds or quadrupeds, or on lands where livestock is pastured, at any time of the year ( N.H. Rev. Stat. § 466:33 ).

Arizona requires that a dog be "physically restrained by a leash, enclosed in a car, cage or similar enclosure" at a public school or park ( A. R. S. § 11-1012 ). Delaware imposes a fine to those owners who allow dogs on state coastal beaches between May 1 and September 30th. ( 7 Del.C. § 1702 )

Finally, Massachusetts and West Virginia have perhaps the most unique state laws concerning restraint requirements. Massachusetts requires a dog be restrained by chain or leash at any public rest area ( M.G.L.A. 140 § 174B ). West Virginia makes it unlawful for any person to knowingly allow a dog to be upon the grounds of the capitol buildings or governor"s mansion unless such dog is under control by leash ( W. Va. Code, § 5A-4-4 ).

Some states restrict loose dogs in certain places, while others do so by time. Kentucky has perhaps the strictest requirement for dogs roaming at night. Any peace officer or animal control officer may seize or destroy any dog found running at large between the hours of sunset and sunrise and unaccompanied and not under the control of its owner or handler ( KRS § 258.265 ). North Carolina law states no person shall allow his or her dog to run at large in the nighttime unless accompanied. Violation is Class 3 misdemeanor AND the person is liable for any damages to property. ( N.C.G.S.A. § 67-12 ). New York law allows a governing body of any municipality to establish an order that dogs be securely confined between sunset and one hour after sunrise. ( McKinney"s Agriculture and Markets Law § 121 ).

As to female dogs, Arizona simply states that no female dog during her breeding or mating season shall be permitted at large ( A. R. S. § 11-1012 ). Michigan law states that it is unlawful to allow any female dog in heat to go beyond the premises of her owner unless "properly held in leash." ( M. C. L. A. 287.262 ).

The table below summarizes statewide leash requirement for these categories. The table does not, however, capture leash laws for dangerous dogs or dogs that have been declared vicious. It also does not capture leash laws that may be governed by a regulation. Again, this table is meant for informational purposes, so please check with your local government for restraint requirements affecting your animal companions.

The present invention generally relates to restraining devices. More specifically, the present invention is drawn to apparatus for permitting movement of multiple dogs in a dog run.

Because of municipal leash laws, small yards, inadequate fencing, etc., finding adequate exercise space for the pet poodle is often difficult for a dog owner. To alleviate this situation, dog owners commonly rely on so-called dog runs. Dog runs typically utilize a horizontal run line (cable, rope, or wire) strung at some distance above ground and anchored between two supporting objects (trees, posts, etc.). A leash line has one end fastened to the run line for sliding movement thereon. The other end of the leash line is attached to the dog"s collar. This scenario allows the dog to move in an area limited by the length of the run line and the leash line. Though this arrangement has proven satisfactory to an extent, problems arise when more than one dog is tethered to the run line. The problems occur when the dogs run over, under and around each other causing entanglements and snarls which might lead to injury. Apparatus to prevent such entanglements and snarls would certainly be a welcome addition to the art.

U.S. Pat. Nos. Des. 346,047 (Peterson), 225,404 (Maxey), 1,563,212 (Madir), 3,395,675 (Fowlkes), 3,722,478 (Smith), 5,497,732 (Moffre et al.) and 5,505,162 (Fleisher et al.) are examples of dog run apparatus designed to accommodate a single dog. It is noted that none of the above patents employ a combination of pulleys and swivels.

British Patent Application numbered 2,060,344 (Dubrey) and U.S. Pat. No. 5,213,063 (Franck, III) disclose a dog run apparatus for a single dog. Both references show utilization of a pulley and swivel combination only at the run line.

U.S. Pat. No. 5,339,773 (Van Druff) utilizes a movable trolley mounted on a track for tethering animals. The track is attached to a solid surface. The instant apparatus does not include a run line and pulleys.

None of the above inventions and patents, taken either singularly or in combination, is seen to disclose a dog run and leash system as will be subsequently described and claimed in the instant invention.

The instant invention comprises a dog run and apparatus adapted to accommodate more than one dog. The apparatus includes a spring-tensioned run line. One end of a primary leash line is mounted on the run line via a swivel connection and pulley. One end of a secondary leash line is mounted on the primary leash line via a swivel connection and pulley. A second end of the primary and secondary leash lines is connected to a respective dog"s collar. The elevation of the run line above grade and the linear dimensions of the run line and leash lines have been chosen to afford ample run area for the dogs and to provide room for maneuvering without causing the leash lines to tangle and snarl.

Accordingly, it is a principal object of the invention to provide a tethering apparatus, which apparatus allows a dog to have a wide range of movement.

Attention is first directed to FIG. 1 wherein the dog run of the present invention is generally indicated at 10. Run 10 comprises a run line 12 having ends 12a, 12bsecured to supporting structure such as four-by-four posts P or alternatively to a natural support such as a tree T (shown in phantom lines). Posts P are anchored in the ground with concrete or the like to insure stability. For optimum operation, run line 12 must be elevated at least six feet above ground level and the usable length of the line should be between fifty and one-hundred feet. As shown, two dogs D are leashed to run line 12 via primary and secondary leashes 14 and 16. Although only two dogs are shown, it should be recognized that the run area could be partitioned or zoned to accommodate at least another pair of dogs. Run line 12 is mounted so that it may sway approximately two feet in a horizontal plane.

Attention is now directed to FIG. 2 wherein a spring tension member 18 is positioned adjacent one end of run line 12. Tension member 18 will permit line 12 to give in both horizontal and vertical planes to enhance safety and comfort. A first pulley 20 is mounted to freely slide on run line 12. A swivel member 20ais incorporated in the lower end of pulley 20. Swivel member 20acan freely rotate through three-hundred-sixty degrees.

A pulley stop 22 is disposed adjacent each end of run line 12. The usable length of run line is positioned between the pulley stops 22. As noted above, this usable length should be between fifty and one hundred feet. A quick-connect mechanism 24 is employed to attach and detach the primary leash at swivel member 20a. Pulley stops 26 define a first segment 14aof primary leash 14. The first segment should have a length of between six feet and eight feet. A three-hundred-sixty degree swivel member 28 defines an end of a second segment 14bof primary leash 14. The second segment is approximately two feet in length and terminates in a collar C for a first dog. Segment 14bis provided with a quick-connect mechanism 24. Secondary leash 16 is attached via a quick-connect mechanism 24 to swivel member 30aand second pulley 30. Pulley 30 slides freely on segment 14abetween stops 26. The secondary leash 16 is at least three feet in length and terminates in a collar C for a second dog. A handle H may be provided for attachment at an appropriate quick-connect mechanism on the primary and/or secondary leashes to walk the dogs when the leashes are disconnected from the run.

For small-sized dogs, the run line and leash lines should be approximately one-fourth of an inch in diameter and medium-gauge pulleys employed; for medium-sized dogs, three-eighths of in inch and medium-gauge pulleys; and for large-sized dogs, one-half of an inch and heavy-gauge pulleys. The pulley and swivel system of the above arrangement work together so that dogs can go over, under and around each other without causing potentially harmful snarl and entanglements in the primary and secondary leashes. Care should be taken to remove all obstacles in the run area (shrubs, stumps, dog houses, etc.) and to keep all parts of the apparatus in good working order.