wire rope dog run made in china

On October 18, 2013, I purchased this dog trolley for our black lab mix. Although it was kind of pricey (over $100), I thought it looked like a quality product and, therefore, worth the extra cost. This trolley installs easy with two people and we will pleased with it until this morning when our neighbors were yelling that our dog had got loose!! Thank you neighbors!! <3

I was shocked to see this leash broken in less than 9 months! It was not bent or frayed or chewed upon. As you can see, it just looks like the metal braided leash just plain failed. That is unacceptable. Maybe I should have inspected the leash part more often. I did inspect it about once a month from the trolley clip end to the dog leash clip. It still looks like a quality product and I really am surprised it failed.

UPDATE! Monday, July 21, 2014. I was contacted by the company who quickly offered a replacement tie out. I am very impressed with that kind of attention to its products and have revised my rating to four stars. I would say Five Stars but the tie out did fail and I am forewarned that it is incumbent upon us dog owners to check the tie outs at least weekly - maybe every Sunday. I would definitely order another trolley system like this as I do believe it is the best available and our puppy has most of the side yard to play. I am thinking that I should just plan on replacing the tie out every six months or so.

Canines are made for the outdoors. However, they can be quite hard to contain when their energies go over the roof. This is where an aerial zipline—made specifically for dogs—comes in.

Dog ziplines or dog lines run are essentially trolleys or pulley dog tie-out systems for dogs. They utilize a suspended pulley system that hangs across an aerial cable, staying with your dog as he walks, runs, sniffs, and explore.

The system consists of two cables: a runner cable tied between two posts or trees and a pulley cable that is mounted on the runner cable and tied or attached to a dog’s harness or leash.

They minimize the chances of your pooch getting strangled or wrapped around trees, posts or chairs. By using a zip line, therefore, you eliminate the need to check your dog several times a day to untangle him.

One of the demerits of conventional tie-downs is the fact that they are not free-moving and may promote instinctive aggressive behavior in your pup. On the contrary, a home or camping dog zip line act like an invisible fence and make your dog feel less strained.

Running lines for dogs are also suited for dogs that have a tendency to chew their leashes off. Considering that the leash is overhead and somehow hidden to the dog, he is less likely to turn and chew it.

Conventional tie-downs are known to spread feces all over the yard or tie-down area, exacerbating the spread of bacteria and other diseases because cleaning up the area effectively becomes a problem given that the dog can also step on the feces and track it all over the area. Ziplines minimize your dog’s contact with his feces as well as the spread of bacteria and diseases.

Without close supervision, a dog run cable can strangle your dog to death, especially when the dog collar is held tightly by the stops on the runner cable. The trolley cable can tangle your dog, cutting off his breath and blood circulation to the limbs.

If you own a Jack Russell terrier, golden retriever, Dalmatian, Irish setter and other dogs that require a lot exercise, a zip line can easily bore them because it limits room for exercise and exploration. As a result, you may witness destructive behaviors like unnecessary barking, digging, or chewing their hair off.

Although running lines for dogs are famed for their potential to provide a little more freedom to dogs, they still limit the ability of your dog to flee animal predators like cougars, snakes, or hawks. This makes your pooch vulnerable to injuries or even death at the hands of these predators. Your dog also risks being stolen by criminals who steal purebred dogs for resale or scientific purposes.

Tethering your dog in uncomfortable weather may cause dehydration and other health conditions. Besides, exposure to weather elements can weaken the dog line run leading to unwanted escapes.

If your dog gets tangled around a tree or post, he may be deprived of access to his food and water. This is also possible when your dog accidentally pushes or rolls over his bowl.

Ensure that you buy products that will handle well your dog’s weight and strength. A dollar store leash, for instance, won’t work well with a 100lb dog.

Choose the posts you want to attach the running cable between. The posts should be far enough apart to give your dog enough space to run. Ensure that the area around the access area is clear of tree branches, fences, and other obstacles that may injure or tangle your dog. You should also ensure that the posts are strong enough to handle all the pulling by your dog. Don’t use posts that you can push or bend.

Now you can screw one threaded eyebolt into one of the posts. Ensure that it is high enough so that you don’t have to duck when crossing your dog’s access area. As a guide, make it a foot taller than the tallest person in your family.

To make your work easier, consider looping the rope clips, stoppers, and pulley system on the running cable at this stage. If you want to stop your dog from reaching either end of the running cable, for instance, you need to put additional rope clips and stoppers now (along with the pulley). Ensure that you slide them in the correct order to allow the pulley to run the full length between your chosen rope clips.

Repeat step 3 at the other post. Ensure that the cable is tight enough to allow the pulley system to run smoothly across it. It shouldn’t droop in the middle.

You can now clip the pulley cable to the handle of your dog leash and the loop in the pulley. Test if it is working properly by running the pulley across the cable a few times to ascertain that everything is running smoothly without any kinks.

Finally, attach the leash to your dog and you are done. Ensure that leash hangs loosely from your pooch’s neck to the running cable to avoid the risk of the leash pulling your dog’s neck or getting caught in his feet as he runs or plays.

Although making a homemade zipline for dogs may save you a few bucks, you don’t want to mess or waste your time creating something that doesn’t work perfectly or could injure your dog.

To reduce tangling, the product is also fitted with patented double swivel snaps. The snaps allow the dog to enjoy more freedom and range of motion in a lateral direction. This reduces the likelihood of the dog getting tangled in his leash.

If you have a heavy dog that needs enough space to play and exercise while still being safe, this is the best cable for you. It can hold a dog of up to 125 lbs. with no problem.

The protective coating made from vinyl ensures protection against dust and rain while the connectors attached to the pulley and the dog’s collars are also constructed with high-quality corrosion-resistant alloys.

The material of the zipline: The type of material used to make the various components of the dog run line dictates its durability and comfort. The best running cable, for instance, should be made of a weather-proof material to provide rust protection. The snap locks should have 360 degrees swivel to enhance the free movement of the running cable. Lastly, the running cable should be thick enough to offer maximum tensile strength.

Size of Your Dog: The size of your dog will dictate factors like the length and weight of the cable to choose. Select a zipline that is long enough to offer a bigger playground for your dog to play, rest, feed, run, and do other important businesses. You should also select a zipline that can withstand the pull by your pooch. While at it, remember that thicker cables may be too heavy and uncomfortable for your dog is he is a small breed.

Installation Accessories: Choose a zipline that includes most or all the installation hardware that you may need, including pulley system, running cable, rope clips, stoppers, shock absorber springs, hooks, installation bolts, etc.

Your Dog’s Energy Level: You don’t need a very long dog line run if your dog is inactive and loves to sleep a lot. On the flip side, opt for a longer zipline if your dog is active and loves to run the whole day.

Potential Risks in the Area: The cable should be long enough to allow your dog to fight or flee from potential dangers in the access area like snakes and other animal predators.

To prevent choking hazards, avoid using the collar to attach your dog to the running line. Use a harness instead. A harness will not only prevent chocking in case your dog becomes tangled but also tends to be more effective for dogs that are prone to slipping out. If you have to use a collar, go for martingale collars instead of the regular buckle collars to prevent your dog from pulling out of the collar and escaping. However, you shouldn’t leave a martingale collar on your dog 24/7 or if you are not around to avoid risks of your dog getting tangled.

While zipline for dogs provide an excellent way for your dog to roam around your yard, picnic area, or campsite a bit, you should always strive to supervise him. Most importantly, remember that ziplines are not a substitute for playing, exercising, and socializing with your dog. Your dog is a social creature and craves for attention even if it is for a short period.

Remember to double-check the range of your zipline. Ensure that it keeps your dog within the confines and safety of your yard, campsite or picnic area—away from the street, motorists, and other potential hazards.

Ensure that the dog line run is installed in a shaded area if possible. Remember to use audio and visual cues to determine the comfort level of the area you plan to restrain your dog.

If it is your dog’s first time to use a zipline, train him beforehand to avoid him getting excited or acting weirdly with sounds of nature or hurting himself chasing critters.

It is a joy to see your dog playful and bubbly. However, if you have no fence or any other measure of control, he can easily run off to unsafe places.

Installing your own aerial ziplines for dogs or purchasing one of the suggested options on this post will help you solve this problem once and for all.

Sable M. is a canine chef, professional pet blogger, and proud owner of two male dogs. I have been an animal lover all my life, with dogs holding a special place in my heart. Initially, I created this blog to share recipes, tips, and any relevant information on healthy homemade dog treats. But because of my unrelenting passion to make a difference in the world of dogs, I have expanded the blog’s scope to include the best information and recommendations about everything dog lovers need to know about their canine friends’ health and wellbeing. My mission now is to find the most helpful content on anything related to dogs and share it with fellow hardworking hound lovers. While everything I share is in line with the latest evidence-based veterinarian health guidelines, nothing should be construed as veterinary advice. Please contact your vet in all matters regarding your Fido’s health.

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Tested for durability and safety, the Rover Roamer Cable Dog Run maximizes your pets roaming area in many outdoor situations and environments, such as fenceless yards and ranches. Also suitable forbehavior managementfor chewing, digging, and runaway dogs.This is the permanent cable edition of the Sky Track featuring 1/4th" (7 mm) aircraft cable, galvanized steel in a flexible 7x19 configuration with a clear vinyl coat, and easily modified for up to 3 dogs (each additional dog, add System Track Hardware).If you require a portable system featuring rope, ratches, and adjustable bumpers, ideal for camping, outdoor events, travel and more, go to the Sky Track page.

Totally customizable, the default Cable Run kit contains 50 feet of 7mm flexible cable (choose length below),2x 6ft Side Buckle Anchor Straps with multiple hardware attachment options, 1 turnbuckle line-tensioner per 50 ft (up to 2 max) or1 extension spring per 70ft (up to 3 max), , 6 cable clasps, 2 rubber stoppers, 1 Neck-Safe Bungee Segment, and full color Photo Instruction Cards.The line length determines the track length, customizable to 400 feet. The pulley allows for smooth movement; the carabiner connects the pulley to the dog leash; each strap wraps around an anchor point (other options below include eye screws and bolts). The cable line tensioner (turnbuckle or ratchet tie-down) tightens the line; the Spring adds flexibility to the line and keeps it taut at all times; and bumpers create a safe distance from the anchor points to prevent the dog from wrapping itself around the tree or post.

Dog Sizes: We use different sized bungee cords depending upon the size of the dog to ensure proper stretch. For example XL dogs get a 15mm bungee cord instead of the usual 5mm/9mm combo bungee for Medium-Large dogs. For very strong, active dogs over 60 lbs, choose XL size.

Lateral Roaming: This affects how much lateral movement the dog enjoys on each side of the line. Because the line is usually placed overhead, a shorter leash may not be long enough to reach the ground. Theheavy duty6-ft Retractable Leashesis recommended for small / medium or less active breeds; the Bungee Leash allows 10 ft of comfortable stretch and recommended for up to 60lbs; and the Chew-Resist Leash is perfect for chewers and any weight up to extra-large dogs.Of course, you can always just use your own leash in combination with the includedNeck-Safe Bungee Segment (XL dogs get a 16mm bungee segment instead).

Visit our Accessories Page to complete the system with leashes, harnesses, and pet supplies. Visit our problem-solving page for any concerns or dog behavioral issues you"re having.

What’s better than enjoying the starry night sky between the warmth of a campfire and your loyal companion by your side? Enjoying this kind of night might take hours to prepare and certainly, your pup’s wandering out of sight doesn’t help. That being the case, a dog tie out for camping will work like a charm in keeping your dog in your sight while safely tethered to a pole or a stake. No more running around chasing Fido! Find the best dog tie out for camping available in the market today!

Let’s see what you have prepared so far, a pop-up tent? Check. Camping food? Check. What about your pup’s necessity like a dog bed, a mosquito suit, and a dog tie out for camping? If you’re reading this, we bet you are in search of the latter. To help you navigate among the sea of products in the market, we’ve prepared some tips to get the best dog tie out for camping to date!

Before we get to the product, it’s essential to train your pup to be tethered. Not all dogs can be tied out due to certain issues like anxiety, excessive chewing, or hyperactivity because they’re prone to accidents. The second most important is that you should never leave your pup unsupervised while tethered to the tie-out. Tie-outs aren’t a foolproof system where the stakes may never pull out or the cables won’t get tangled.

Heavier dogs require stronger or even multiple stakes to withstand the tugging, but cables give impact to all kinds of dogs. We highly recommend cables over chains or ropes. They’re lightweight and less prone to snapping. The best ones are rust-proof cables with a vinyl coating that works awesome even for the worst chew monsters.

A tie-out is a tether cable in various lengths to let your pup walk around freely without tethered to you. Dog tie-outs are great to use if you want to make sure your pup isn’t wandering around while you’re busy preparing the camp or want to relax. Tie outs may vary from rust-proof steel cables to less durable ropes.

If done correctly and within a time limit, dog tie-outs are even recommended for the sake of the pup. Since you can’t always focus on your pup, the best dog tie out for camping will keep them from wandering around and being exposed to danger. However, we strongly advise you to never leave your pup unattended while tethered.

A short leash on a stake that’s at least 3 feet (1 meter) is great to keep a calm dog tethered for a while. If you want to give some space, cables as short as 5 to 10 feet (2-5 meters) are great to keep them in sight and don’t wander too far.

We’re going to start with the true and tried stake tie out, Dog Yard Stake with Tie Out! It’s one of the chosen products among avid camper due to its simplicity and strength. To use the stake, you only need to wind its corkscrew end into the solid ground and attach the cable onto the provided loop. It’s as easy like one-two-three!

A tube of vinyl protects the cable from rust and both of its ends features anti-rust clips that connect the stake and the collar. There are several cable variations you can choose according to your pup’s needs. You can choose between 10ft – 40ft cable length and additional spring reinforcement to dampen tug shock. This system can handle a dog up to 125lbs.

This is more suitable if you’re camping in a spacious site since it will allow your pup to roam freely. The Pupteck Dog Run Cable is a trolley tie out system. If you’re not familiar with trolley tie-outs, this system doesn’t require stakes on the ground to anchor the tether. The stationary cable acts as an anchor to the lead cable. This system will let your pup runs free as far as the cable range allows.

This system can hold up to 125lbs dogs who like to do zoomies! While setting up, this dog tie out need a bit more time than other conventional methods, this system can deter tangling and let your pup run free without feeling tethered – at least not until they’re too far. The 100ft cable might be too long for your liking, so we recommend purchasing shorter cables to pair with your dog tie out for camping.

Camping is a great opportunity to strengthen the bond between you and your four-legged companion. Safety is a must that less time worrying equals more time bonding and fun. That said, never go out camping without Boss Pet – Prestige 40ft Large Dog Tie Out in your gear. This powerhouse weighs only 1 pound and is designed to keep dogs up to 60lbs stay within your sight. Is your pup has a habit of pushing boundary? A spring tension breaker reinforces this tie-out to eliminate shock that often kinks most tie-out mechanisms.

We often hear complaints about dogs that are very persistent or simply escape artists. The problem usually lies in a rusty cable or when the clasp break. XiaZ Dog Runner Tie Out Cable was invented to solve this problem! Intended for bigger, stronger dogs, this dog tie out for camping has denser and wider steel wire rope that effectively enhances its strength.

It’s not just the rope that’s reinforced, the carabiners also underwent enhancement to prevent kinking. Clasps, though convenient, are prone to snapping if get pulled by a sudden, forceful jerk. To overcome this, the engineers behind this product decided to change the clasps to screw-in carabiners and weld a simple pulley onto them. With this tie-out, you won’t be worried about using it at night since it will still be visible thanks to its reflective rubber-vinyl cover.

Another product with a popular design but better! Since you can’t carry much weight when camping – especially when packing along with your pup’s necessity – you will look for slimmed-down versions of things so no wonder this design is very popular! But slimmed down doesn’t mean they don’t work as good and Expawlorer Dog Tie Out Cable and Reflective Stake will prove it to you.

This bite-resistant tie outweighs about 1 pound and can maintain dogs up to 60lbs. There are 3 options of cable length you can choose between 20ft to 30ft according to the size and roaming area you have. The cable will then be connected to the stake screwed to the solid ground. The stake features a swivel ring that can turn 360 degrees to eliminate the risk of tangling. We recommend this tie out when you’re planning to have prolonged camping that involves nighttime activities as it’s visible in night time due to its reflective property.

AmazonBasics Tie-Out Cable is the newest addition to the original product line that’s been providing quality products with considerably affordable price, particularly this dog tie out for camping. The rave reviews speak hefty about this unit! The tie out is intended to withstand the tugs and drags of small to medium dogs (90lbs) using its steel wire rope. This strength is packed in a system weighing less than a pound!

This tie out should last a long time for you. This durability comes from the choice of steel wire and rust resistance from the PVC sleeve throughout the cable. On both ends, you will find metal clasps to hoo1 k the cable to the collar. Using it outdoor? Worry not as it’s completely rust-proof including the clasps. Depending on your pup and use, the manufacturer offers several variants of length and strength: from 25ft for max 60lbs dog to 30ft for max 125lbs dog.

One of the main concerns when attaching a dog to a tie out is tangling. Should this worry you, choosing SUREswivel 360 degree Swiveling Pet Tie-Out will give you some peace of mind! This robust tie out has a special ability to let the attached tether cable do a full 360-degree motion even to the strongest tugging! This monster of an anchor can hold up to 1000lbs pull force when securely bolted to a stable base.

While not including the cable, this tie-out consists of a swivel base and 5 anchor stakes. This base works best when it’s anchored to stable soil. Be careful to remove all debris from the base spot to prevent loose anchoring. What makes this swivel tie out great for camping is the sweet balance between portability and strength. If you have dogs (yes, dogs!) that like to tug hard, then this base is perfect in all sense!

Trolley systems are getting traction between campers who like to bring their loyal companions with them. There are many products for such purpose, but Tumbo Trolley Dog Containment System stole our attention. The company who produces it thought every aspect down to the minute details. There are 6 variants you choose from depending on your pup’s strength and range.

Snagle Paw Dog Tie is the heavy-duty dog tie-out for camping you’ve been waiting for! This product adopts the aerial trolley system that’s known for its anti-tangling mechanism. Armed to withstand the pull of dogs up to 125lbs, the whole system is made of high-grade steel and aluminum carabiner. Put up this tie out before you start on settling into your camp so it’s ready when needed.

Installing it is quite easy, put up the steel wire that acts as a railing between 2 trees (above head), and don’t forget to also install the pulley system. Use the turnbuckle to adjust the tension of the railing wire. After that, you can connect the trolley to the lead cable that connects the trolley to the pup’s collar. Worry that it would snap because of your naughty pup? Thankfully, the lead cable is equipped with a spring shock-absorbent to dampen sudden pulls or yanking.

Who said quality equals prize? Lixit Retractable Cable Tie Out for Dogs is ready to challenge you on that! The recently out product is quickly gaining fans among dog owners who also happen to be avid campers. Their customers are raving about how it could become the best heavy-duty retractable dog tie out because even though it doesn’t look it, this tie out can withstand the pull up to 120lbs! That’s twice of the more common retractable tie-outs in the market.

Rigorously tested by experts, BV Pet Tie Out Cable excels on the strength and functionality campers need. Coming in 3 color variants, this dog tie out for camping is 30ft in length and can withstand the pull of a 125lbs dog. The cable itself is made of steel wire rope sleeved by PVC rust to prevent any unwanted corrosion. The sleeve is also reflective to enhance visibility at night.

Camping in a tight spot and don’t want to let your pup roam too far? Then AspenPet Tie Out is exactly for you! But short doesn’t mean it’s less sturdy than its other competitors. In fact, the mix between the trolley strength and the compact lead cables makes it one of the best dog tie outs for camping. The whole system can handle dogs up to 200lbs! It’s arguably the best dog tie out for camping for energetic fidos!

The best dog tie out for camping in our eyes is the one invented particularly for the purpose. Such a product should cove practicality, portability, and durability.Ruffwear, Knot-a-Hitch Dog Hitching System is the one that checks all boxes. Using the latest trolley system design, it’s the most lightweight tie-out in this list with almost half a pound for the whole system! When not used, you can pack everything into the stowaway pouch.

Albeit light, it doesn’t compromise the strength. Inspired by rock climbing gears, this unit switches cables with kernmantle rope that’s known for its durability and tensile strength. It’s the kind of rope that takes care of climbers among steep cliffs, anyway. The traditional heavy trolley is gone and a swivel heavy duty takes its place. The lead cable is then secured by a Crux Clip right on the collar. In our eyes, this tie out worth the investment because it will last for a long time!

All dogs – from the most athletic greyhounds to the laziest bulldogs – need the chance to stretch their legs, run around, and get some exercise on a daily basis. In fact, adequate exercise isn’t only important for the physical health of dogs, it’s important for their mental and emotional well-being too.

However, in the real world, many owners struggle to accommodate this need. Fencing in a backyard is often prohibitively expensive, and daily trips to the dog park aren’t realistic for many owners.

But fortunately, there is a solution: You can build your pet a dog run, which will give your dog a safe place to zoom around to his heart’s content. We’ll explain more about dog runs, provide a few design tips, and share a few specific DIY plans below.

There doesn’t appear to be an official definition for the term, and your dog doesn’t care what you call it, so we’ll just use “dog run” to describe any type of outdoor structure or area that gives your dog space to run around.

But it is important to note that all dog runs have one very important characteristic in common – they don’t require you to supervise your dog while in use.

Dog runs are designed to keep your dog in your yard without the use of a standard perimeter fence, preventing your pup from running away or getting into excessive amounts of mischief while he gets his daily exercise.

There may not be a concrete definition for the term dog run, but most fall into one of four basic categories. Before deciding on a specific set of plans, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with each.

When most people use the term dog run, they are probably thinking of a long, narrow fenced area which allows your dog to, well, run back and forth along its length.

While these types of dog runs may not give your dog the freedom to run in any direction he chooses, they provide him a long straightaway that lets him run enough to reach top speed.

Some dog runs feature a square (or nearly square) footprint that provides your dog with a place to hang out and enjoy some fresh air – think of them as outdoor playpens.

While many of these kennels or pens are too small to allow your dog to run very fast, large versions will allow your dog to run around like a proper goofball.

You’ll also need to install a gate that provides access to the run.Experienced builders can fashion a custom gate relatively easily, but most dog owners will find it simpler to just purchase a pre-fabricated gate at the local hardware store.

You may want to add a suitable ground cover, such as hardwood mulch chips, to the dog run. Dog-safe mulch offers some terrain variety and can alleviate some of the maintenance work needed to keep up with grass. Some owners may also wish to add a roof or windshield to help protect your pup from the elements.

Some owners use the term dog run to apply to an open space which doesn’t feature a fence at all. Instead, a long piece of rope or chain is used to keep your dog from wandering off.

An anchored tether is exceedingly easy to set up. You can simply buy a corkscrew-shaped stake, drive it into the ground, and then use a long tether to connect the stake to your dog’s collar or harness.

Just be sure to put the tether in a wide-open space which doesn’t present any hazards or obstacles to your dog (you don’t want your dog to wrap the tether around a tree, for example).

If a ground stake isn’t a good fit for your property, dog, or aesthetic tastes, you can insert a large wooden timber into the ground and cement it into place. Then, you’ll need to attach a thick steel ring to one side of the post.This will give you a place to attach the tether.

These types of dog runs are slightly trickier to build than those featuring anchored tethers, but when properly designed, your dog will be able to enjoy a long straightaway that’ll allow him to hit Mach 1.

To start, you’ll need to suspend a long cable or rope about 6 to 10 feet above the ground. This rope should extend over the entire length of the dog run area.

You’ll then need to thread a metal ring or short piece of pipe around the suspended line. A tether can then be used to connect your dog to the sliding ring or pipe.

Most dog runs need to be custom built to suit your dog and property. However, that doesn’t mean you have to completely reinvent the wheel – check out the plans listed below and tweak them to suit your situation.

This is a great dog run for small- to medium-sized dogs, but it probably isn’t tall enough to keep large dogs (or impressive leapers) safely contained.

These Cheap and Easy Dog Run plans by Instructables are some of the easiest and most affordable dog run plans we found, and they rely on a number of salvaged items that the authors had laying around.

This Chain-Link Dog Run by Family Handyman is probably my favorite set of dog run plans as it includes a variety of cool features, such as buried barriers to prevent your dog from digging his way to freedom and a place that allows you to flush-mount your dog’s house.

These DIY plans from Jenna & Snickers will help you make a cable run (sliding tether) that will give your dog quite a bit of room to run without the need for a fence.

These are some of the simplest plans for a dog run we found, and they should be very helpful for owners who lack the interest or skill necessary to construct a fenced dog run.

However, some owners want to go above-and-beyond in an effort to give their dog the most luxurious accommodations possible.And if this sounds like you, this video guide by Youtuber Pete B. will certainly help.

Now, let’s be clear: This is a HUGE project that’ll likely require more time, skill, and funding than the average dog owner is willing or able to invest. But if you want to give your pet a palatial dog run, this video will get you off to a good start.

Alternatively, it is possible to purchase sophisticated outdoor dog kennels like the one demo-ed here. They’ll cost a pretty penny, but they’ll save you a lot of time, effort, and may not even be that much more expensive when you consider supply costs.

This is not as elaborate as the run described above, but it is still a very nice dog run. And because it is a little simpler than Pete B.’s version, it’ll be easier for most owners to construct.

If you allow your dog to run, jump, and play in the same place day after day, your lawn will likely start to show signs of damage.You can, however, do a few things to mitigate or avoid this problem:

Cover the area with wood chips or some other paw-friendly material(the grass will still die, but it will look better). Also consider using a dog-friendly grass in your yard that’s a bit tougher than the average yard seed.

Of course, you may not care if your dog tears up the lawn if the run is situated in an inconspicuous location. However, dogs who run around on bare dirt will tend to need more frequent baths than those who play on grass.

This not only includes things like feral or unleasheddogs,but coyotes and other predators too.And, although it sounds like something that only a supervillain in a movie would do, some people may even try to steal your dog.

Small dogs are obviously much more vulnerable to these types of dangers than big dogs, but that doesn’t mean big dogs are immune to these threats. A group of canines could gang up on your pet, and nefarious people may harm your pooch in a number of ways – no matter how big and scary he is.

There’s not much you can do to protect tethered dogs from these kinds of threats, so just be sure to carefully consider the number of feral animals, wild critters, and criminals lurking in your area before implementing a tether-style dog run.

Fenced dog runs can be pretty tricky to build – particularly for those without a lot of construction experience.You’ll need to work with heavy materials and power tools, and you’ll likely need the help of a friend or two to finish the project.

Sliding tethers require a tiny bit of DIY know-how, but fixed-anchor tethers require you to do little more than drive the anchor into the ground (or attach it to some other structure) and tie your dog to it.

If you’re interested in the fixed anchor tether option, make sure to check out our article on the best dog tie outs and tie downs to find the most secure options.

Sufficiently motivated dogs can often make quick work of a rope or cord – I once had a dog chew through her seat-belt leash in the time it took me to drive down my driveway!

Jumpers can usually be thwarted by simply using a fence that is too tall for your dog to clear – this likely means making the fence at least 6- to 8-feet high (and some dogs may even be able to clear these heights).

Climbers can be more challenging to contain. You can add smooth panels to the inside of the enclosure to help prevent them from getting a grip, or you can use “coyote rollers,” which will prevent most dogs from escaping.

While some dogs may try to escape a dog run by going over the fence, others will just try to tunnel beneath it. Fortunately, you can employ a number of strategies to help thwart their escape attempts.

So, try to incorporate shaded areas to give your dog space to play in the summer, as well as a few sunny areas, which will provide him with a place to bask in the sunshine on chilly winter mornings.

This is typically easier to accomplish with a long, narrow dog run than it is with a square enclosure. Just be sure to examine your yard carefully before laying out the run, as the sun and shade will shift over the course of the day (as well as over the course of the year).

Despite the myriad shapes, sizes, and layouts dog runs can take, there are a few common questions that routinely pop up when owners take on the project. We’ll discuss a few of these below.

This is a common question among dog owners, but it’s difficult to provide a quick-and-easy formula. You’ll just have to take your dog’s size and energy level into consideration, as well as the amount of space you have available.

Personally, I feel like this is a bit small, but this is probably a good starting point, and you can only make a run as big as your budget and space allow.

Cost-conscious owners can certainly construct a dog run for less, and exceptionally creative and innovative owners can probably build a fenced dog run for less than $200.

It is important to incorporate an appropriate ground cover or floor when designing a dog run. Doing so will not only prevent your dog from turning the run into a dirty mess, but it’ll also ensure that his paws remain comfortable while he’s getting some exercise.

–Grass is fantastic for your dog’s paws, although you may find it necessary to reseed the area once a year or so, as repeated use will kill some of the grass.

–Pine bark or cypress mulch are both relatively comfortable for your dog’s feet.They’re also typically rather affordable materials, and they’ll help keep the dirt covered. However, you’ll likely find that the mulch ends up “escaping” from the run, so you’ll need to tidy up the area from time to time.

–Astroturf or outdoor carpet is another viable choice. These materials may be a bit expensive, but they’ll last for years and provide a comfortable and cushioned running surface for your dog. Just note that many outdoor carpets can get hot if installed in a place that gets lots of direct sun, so be sure to monitor the temps and be mindful of your mutt’s mitts.

–A thick layer of pine straw will likely help protect the ground while also being gentle on your dog’s paws. The pine straw will break down over time (and some of it will end up outside of the dog run), but pine straw is typically very affordable and easy to spread. While it’s great for a dog run as well as insulation for a dog house, it’s not a good choice for dog bedding – there are better materials for that!

–Concrete is an affordable and supremely durable surface for a dog run. It is also easy to keep clean (you can just hose it off periodically). Concrete may be a bit rough on your dog’s paws, so you may want to incorporate some padded or soft areas in the run. Nevertheless, most dogs will be able to adapt to a concrete dog run.

For starters, leaving food outside will invariably attract rodents and other critters.It will also cause headaches for you, as you’ll need to go back and forth between your kitchen – where you’ll wash and fill your dog’s bowl – and the run.

Remember, the primary purpose of a dog run is to provide your dog with an area to get exercise. Dog runs shouldn’t be used as long-term accommodations for your pet.

You’ll want to use a dog run to give your pet a chance to run around and get some exercise when you can’t take him to the park or when you are busy with other things.

But generally speaking, most dogs should be fine hanging out in their run for at least an hour, and some may be happy running around for 3 or 4 hours at a time.

Dog runs are a great way to give your dog a fun and safe place to play and exercise, and they work really well with most pets. Just be sure to customize the DIY dog run plans you decide to use to suit your property and your pet’s needs.

Tell us about the basic layout, the size, and the materials you used during the construction process. Your experiences may give other owners dog run design ideas of their own!

In stricter senses, the term wire rope refers to a diameter larger than 9.5 mm (3⁄8 in), with smaller gauges designated cable or cords.wrought iron wires were used, but today steel is the main material used for wire ropes.

Historically, wire rope evolved from wrought iron chains, which had a record of mechanical failure. While flaws in chain links or solid steel bars can lead to catastrophic failure, flaws in the wires making up a steel cable are less critical as the other wires easily take up the load. While friction between the individual wires and strands causes wear over the life of the rope, it also helps to compensate for minor failures in the short run.

Wire ropes were developed starting with mining hoist applications in the 1830s. Wire ropes are used dynamically for lifting and hoisting in cranes and elevators, and for transmission of mechanical power. Wire rope is also used to transmit force in mechanisms, such as a Bowden cable or the control surfaces of an airplane connected to levers and pedals in the cockpit. Only aircraft cables have WSC (wire strand core). Also, aircraft cables are available in smaller diameters than wire rope. For example, aircraft cables are available in 1.2 mm (3⁄64 in) diameter while most wire ropes begin at a 6.4 mm (1⁄4 in) diameter.suspension bridges or as guy wires to support towers. An aerial tramway relies on wire rope to support and move cargo overhead.

Modern wire rope was invented by the German mining engineer Wilhelm Albert in the years between 1831 and 1834 for use in mining in the Harz Mountains in Clausthal, Lower Saxony, Germany.chains, such as had been used before.

Wilhelm Albert"s first ropes consisted of three strands consisting of four wires each. In 1840, Scotsman Robert Stirling Newall improved the process further.John A. Roebling, starting in 1841suspension bridge building. Roebling introduced a number of innovations in the design, materials and manufacture of wire rope. Ever with an ear to technology developments in mining and railroading, Josiah White and Erskine Hazard, principal ownersLehigh Coal & Navigation Company (LC&N Co.) — as they had with the first blast furnaces in the Lehigh Valley — built a Wire Rope factory in Mauch Chunk,Pennsylvania in 1848, which provided lift cables for the Ashley Planes project, then the back track planes of the Summit Hill & Mauch Chunk Railroad, improving its attractiveness as a premier tourism destination, and vastly improving the throughput of the coal capacity since return of cars dropped from nearly four hours to less than 20 minutes. The decades were witness to a burgeoning increase in deep shaft mining in both Europe and North America as surface mineral deposits were exhausted and miners had to chase layers along inclined layers. The era was early in railroad development and steam engines lacked sufficient tractive effort to climb steep slopes, so incline plane railways were common. This pushed development of cable hoists rapidly in the United States as surface deposits in the Anthracite Coal Region north and south dove deeper every year, and even the rich deposits in the Panther Creek Valley required LC&N Co. to drive their first shafts into lower slopes beginning Lansford and its Schuylkill County twin-town Coaldale.

The German engineering firm of Adolf Bleichert & Co. was founded in 1874 and began to build bicable aerial tramways for mining in the Ruhr Valley. With important patents, and dozens of working systems in Europe, Bleichert dominated the global industry, later licensing its designs and manufacturing techniques to Trenton Iron Works, New Jersey, USA which built systems across America. Adolf Bleichert & Co. went on to build hundreds of aerial tramways around the world: from Alaska to Argentina, Australia and Spitsbergen. The Bleichert company also built hundreds of aerial tramways for both the Imperial German Army and the Wehrmacht.

In the last half of the 19th century, wire rope systems were used as a means of transmitting mechanical powercable cars. Wire rope systems cost one-tenth as much and had lower friction losses than line shafts. Because of these advantages, wire rope systems were used to transmit power for a distance of a few miles or kilometers.

Steel wires for wire ropes are normally made of non-alloy carbon steel with a carbon content of 0.4 to 0.95%. The very high strength of the rope wires enables wire ropes to support large tensile forces and to run over sheaves with relatively small diameters.

In the mostly used parallel lay strands, the lay length of all the wire layers is equal and the wires of any two superimposed layers are parallel, resulting in linear contact. The wire of the outer layer is supported by two wires of the inner layer. These wires are neighbors along the whole length of the strand. Parallel lay strands are made in one operation. The endurance of wire ropes with this kind of strand is always much greater than of those (seldom used) with cross lay strands. Parallel lay strands with two wire layers have the construction Filler, Seale or Warrington.

In principle, spiral ropes are round strands as they have an assembly of layers of wires laid helically over a centre with at least one layer of wires being laid in the opposite direction to that of the outer layer. Spiral ropes can be dimensioned in such a way that they are non-rotating which means that under tension the rope torque is nearly zero. The open spiral rope consists only of round wires. The half-locked coil rope and the full-locked coil rope always have a centre made of round wires. The locked coil ropes have one or more outer layers of profile wires. They have the advantage that their construction prevents the penetration of dirt and water to a greater extent and it also protects them from loss of lubricant. In addition, they have one further very important advantage as the ends of a broken outer wire cannot leave the rope if it has the proper dimensions.

Stranded ropes are an assembly of several strands laid helically in one or more layers around a core. This core can be one of three types. The first is a fiber core, made up of synthetic material or natural fibers like sisal. Synthetic fibers are stronger and more uniform but cannot absorb much lubricant. Natural fibers can absorb up to 15% of their weight in lubricant and so protect the inner wires much better from corrosion than synthetic fibers do. Fiber cores are the most flexible and elastic, but have the downside of getting crushed easily. The second type, wire strand core, is made up of one additional strand of wire, and is typically used for suspension. The third type is independent wire rope core (IWRC), which is the most durable in all types of environments.ordinary lay rope if the lay direction of the wires in the outer strands is in the opposite direction to the lay of the outer strands themselves. If both the wires in the outer strands and the outer strands themselves have the same lay direction, the rope is called a lang lay rope (from Dutch langslag contrary to kruisslag,Regular lay means the individual wires were wrapped around the centers in one direction and the strands were wrapped around the core in the opposite direction.

Multi-strand ropes are all more or less resistant to rotation and have at least two layers of strands laid helically around a centre. The direction of the outer strands is opposite to that of the underlying strand layers. Ropes with three strand layers can be nearly non-rotating. Ropes with two strand layers are mostly only low-rotating.

Stationary ropes, stay ropes (spiral ropes, mostly full-locked) have to carry tensile forces and are therefore mainly loaded by static and fluctuating tensile stresses. Ropes used for suspension are often called cables.

Track ropes (full locked ropes) have to act as rails for the rollers of cabins or other loads in aerial ropeways and cable cranes. In contrast to running ropes, track ropes do not take on the curvature of the rollers. Under the roller force, a so-called free bending radius of the rope occurs. This radius increases (and the bending stresses decrease) with the tensile force and decreases with the roller force.

Wire rope slings (stranded ropes) are used to harness various kinds of goods. These slings are stressed by the tensile forces but first of all by bending stresses when bent over the more or less sharp edges of the goods.

Technical regulations apply to the design of rope drives for cranes, elevators, rope ways and mining installations. Factors that are considered in design include:

Donandt force (yielding tensile force for a given bending diameter ratio D/d) - strict limit. The nominal rope tensile force S must be smaller than the Donandt force SD1.

The wire ropes are stressed by fluctuating forces, by wear, by corrosion and in seldom cases by extreme forces. The rope life is finite and the safety is only ensured by inspection for the detection of wire breaks on a reference rope length, of cross-section loss, as well as other failures so that the wire rope can be replaced before a dangerous situation occurs. Installations should be designed to facilitate the inspection of the wire ropes.

Lifting installations for passenger transportation require that a combination of several methods should be used to prevent a car from plunging downwards. Elevators must have redundant bearing ropes and a safety gear. Ropeways and mine hoistings must be permanently supervised by a responsible manager and the rope must be inspected by a magnetic method capable of detecting inner wire breaks.

The end of a wire rope tends to fray readily, and cannot be easily connected to plant and equipment. There are different ways of securing the ends of wire ropes to prevent fraying. The common and useful type of end fitting for a wire rope is to turn the end back to form a loop. The loose end is then fixed back on the wire rope. Termination efficiencies vary from about 70% for a Flemish eye alone; to nearly 90% for a Flemish eye and splice; to 100% for potted ends and swagings.

When the wire rope is terminated with a loop, there is a risk that it will bend too tightly, especially when the loop is connected to a device that concentrates the load on a relatively small area. A thimble can be installed inside the loop to preserve the natural shape of the loop, and protect the cable from pinching and abrading on the inside of the loop. The use of thimbles in loops is industry best practice. The thimble prevents the load from coming into direct contact with the wires.

A wire rope clip, sometimes called a clamp, is used to fix the loose end of the loop back to the wire rope. It usually consists of a U-bolt, a forged saddle, and two nuts. The two layers of wire rope are placed in the U-bolt. The saddle is then fitted to the bolt over the ropes (the saddle includes two holes to fit to the U-bolt). The nuts secure the arrangement in place. Two or more clips are usually used to terminate a wire rope depending on the diameter. As many as eight may be needed for a 2 in (50.8 mm) diameter rope.

The mnemonic "never saddle a dead horse" means that when installing clips, the saddle portion of the assembly is placed on the load-bearing or "live" side, not on the non-load-bearing or "dead" side of the cable. This is to protect the live or stress-bearing end of the rope against crushing and abuse. The flat bearing seat and extended prongs of the body are designed to protect the rope and are always placed against the live end.

An eye splice may be used to terminate the loose end of a wire rope when forming a loop. The strands of the end of a wire rope are unwound a certain distance, then bent around so that the end of the unwrapped length forms an eye. The unwrapped strands are then plaited back into the wire rope, forming the loop, or an eye, called an eye splice.

A Flemish eye, or Dutch Splice, involves unwrapping three strands (the strands need to be next to each other, not alternates) of the wire and keeping them off to one side. The remaining strands are bent around, until the end of the wire meets the "V" where the unwrapping finished, to form the eye. The strands kept to one side are now re-wrapped by wrapping from the end of the wire back to the "V" of the eye. These strands are effectively rewrapped along the wire in the opposite direction to their original lay. When this type of rope splice is used specifically on wire rope, it is called a "Molly Hogan", and, by some, a "Dutch" eye instead of a "Flemish" eye.

Swaging is a method of wire rope termination that refers to the installation technique. The purpose of swaging wire rope fittings is to connect two wire rope ends together, or to otherwise terminate one end of wire rope to something else. A mechanical or hydraulic swager is used to compress and deform the fitting, creating a permanent connection. Threaded studs, ferrules, sockets, and sleeves are examples of different swaged terminations.

A wedge socket termination is useful when the fitting needs to be replaced frequently. For example, if the end of a wire rope is in a high-wear region, the rope may be periodically trimmed, requiring the termination hardware to be removed and reapplied. An example of this is on the ends of the drag ropes on a dragline. The end loop of the wire rope enters a tapered opening in the socket, wrapped around a separate component called the wedge. The arrangement is knocked in place, and load gradually eased onto the rope. As the load increases on the wire rope, the wedge become more secure, gripping the rope tighter.

Poured sockets are used to make a high strength, permanent termination; they are created by inserting the wire rope into the narrow end of a conical cavity which is oriented in-line with the intended direction of strain. The individual wires are splayed out inside the cone or "capel", and the cone is then filled with molten lead-antimony-tin (Pb80Sb15Sn5) solder or "white metal capping",zincpolyester resin compound.

Donald Sayenga. "Modern History of Wire Rope". History of the Atlantic Cable & Submarine Telegraphy (atlantic-cable.com). Archived from the original on 3 February 2014. Retrieved 9 April 2014.