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This is my setup to test a GM Power Steering Pump as a hydraulic pump to power hydraulic motors and cylinders. All the components used here are stock. The ...

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Actually I have built several wood splitters using Saginaw power steering pumps and they do a commendable job. Pressure capability is more than adequate 850-1600 psi as it comes out of the car or truck. Small car=lower pressure, bigger truck=more pressure and more volume. The built in pressure reliefs can be bypassed.

I believe the Saginaw pumps, as in bobw53"s photo, came in two displacements, .94 cu in per revolution and 1.06 cu in per revolution so you"ll have to do the math for whatever you plan to power with it as far as required HP, speed or flow required.

I know on some of the splitters I built, a 5 HP B&S had it"s belly dragging the ground in order to drive it so it can suck up a bit of power fast. This was while pushing a 3.5" bore cylinder at about 1500 psi. This works out to about 14,000 lbs output force.

Older cars would slow the engine down while cranking the wheel, newer ones have a switch that senses pressure and sends a signal to the ECM to increase idle speed.

Flow is easily controlled with any one of many types of control valves and don"t worry about the tiny reservoir as that is probably the least of your worries. Whatever size you need whether it"s 1/2 pt. or 500 gallons is entirely up to you.

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I have seen pumps that are internally regulated between 900 psi and 2000 psi, so there is some variance. A lot of the newer GM pumps are around 2.0 GPM, with the truck pumps largely being 3.0-3.5+ GPM. This link should get you started:

I recently had to rebuild a GM/Toyota pump (from a 2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V) to match the volume requirements and pressure limitations of the rack in my Jaguar. I called A-1 Cardone, a company that remanufactures power steering pumps, and their techs were able to give me the PS volume and pressure of their rebuilt units, which in theory, should be about the same as the stock units. With that information, I was able to go to a salvage yard and buy an old pump to tear apart for parts.

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Speed and power sometimes don"t sound as important as they are...until you start using your new hydraulics and find out they are painfully slow or under powered. You may be able to use your existing PS pump but I would first find out the specs on it and make sure it is up to snuff. You may just want to hook up an automotive steering pump off the fan belt. Here are a couple of links I used when researching the retrofitting of my tractor with an automotive power steering pump. I think it would work fine for your application. The link to Pirate 4X4 covers power steering specifically but more importantly gives a lot of info on pumps and most of the readers this was written for are using typical agricultural style hydraulic cylinders. In place of an orbital valve you would use a typical lever type control valve and basic plumbing to the cylinder(s). You should be able to gleen enough petinant information from the site to be able to decide if this style pump is what you want to go with. Baums calculators can help you decide what your existing pump or and auto style pump will power and how fast.

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I know there has been some discussion in the past about using a power steering pump to drive a hydraulic winch, but I wonder if anybody else has used one of these to power any other kind of hydraulics?

I didn"t know it, but one of my friend"s sons works at a auto junk yard, and I now have access to some cheap parts. I just wondered if a power steering pump would have enough power to drive a couple of small cylinders and what the strength would be? I can see where I might be able to use one of these to make a log clamp and possibly a log turner for the home made bandmill--- if it would work and be strong enough. I would be driving it with a 12hp briggs lawn mower engine. Also, is there anything on a car or truck that one could modify to act as a drive motor- driven by the power steering pump? If so, I might could use this to drive the head rig...