wood splitter hydraulic pump problems supplier

Hydraulic Log Splitter systems use pressurised fluid to power a force that is used behind a wedge to split wood. If the log splitter seems weak or not performing as it should then there is a strong likelihood that something is not right with how the splitter system is operating.

To begin with, check your log splitter and the wood you are trying to split. If a log is not splitting all the way through then the log may be too green or too large, meaning that it would require a greater force than your log splitting machine can manage. Also make sure the log is loaded properly and isn’t on an angle or is too long. If this is in order, then take a look at the wedge itself, as with heavy use they can become blunt and stop cutting as they should.

These vibrations or shaking could be due to the log splitter being low in hydraulic oil. If the levels look correct when checking this could mean that there is air within the oil lines. To fix this the bleed valve needs to be opened and the pressure plate needs to be cycled back and forth a few times.

Temperature could also be the culprit for loss of driving force, as hydraulic oil is more viscose in cold weather resulting in a weak response until the machine warms up.

The nut for the ram has possibly come off the piston if the ram has extended but not retracted. With the engine off, hold open the valve and push it back in using a narrow rod. However, with this issue you may need to bring it in or contact one of the Flowfit team to discuss replacing the nut to prevent damaging your hydraulic log splitter system if you use it again.

Log splitters are a relatively simple design, making them easy to maintain and fix, but if issues are persisting or you aren’t confident with fixing this machine then please do seek professional advice.

Keep your hydraulics in motion with a wood splitter hydraulic pump from RuggedMade. Designed to meet the needs of high-force log splitting, our precision 2-stage hydraulic pumps ensure cylinders perform smoothly and rapidly, helping to shave down cycle times.

Our expanded line of one and two-stage log splitter pumps are constructed to produce up to 3,000 PSI and can also be used at the heart of a variety of hydraulic applications to keep fluid flowing freely and steadily, throughout the life of your machine.

Here at Beiler Hydraulics we stock a full range of log splitter pumps. Log splitter pumps automatically switch from high-speed/low-pressure to high-pressure/low-speed to meet the load requirements. The low-pressure side is preset at 400-900 psi, and the high-pressure side has a max of 3,000 psi. These pumps are ideal for log splitters, presses, or any application where you need to automatically switch from high speed at low pressure to high pressure at low speed. Beiler Hydraulics also stocks many other Log Splitter Parts including valves, cylinders, hose assemblies, and fittings. With our multi-million dollar inventory we are more than equipped to provide a complete solution for all your hydraulic needs. Our sales team has the knowledge and expertise to make sure you have exactly what you need. At Beiler Hydraulics we believe in offering quality products at competitive prices and providing the customer service you need before, during, and after the sale. Please Contact Us today with any questions or to place an order.

The hydraulic pump controls the flow of fluid within the pump system. Most log splitter hydraulic pumps will be two-stage pumps, meaning that they can force the liquid within them to move in two different directions, which allows for the hydraulic arm to be pushed forward to split wood, and also retracted so the machine can be reloaded with a new log. The seals on these pumps wear over time and eventually can cause hydraulic fluid to leak out of the system. If fluid is leaking from your pump, disassemble it and replace all seals. When repairing a damaged pump it is important to carefully analyze and address the rest of the hydraulic system. When the pump fails it will often send metal debris throughout the hydraulic system. At a minimum it will be necessary to thoroughly flush the hydraulic fluid and replace the filter. Debris left in the system can quickly ruin a new pump.

The cylinder is driven by hydraulic oil, under pressure, produced by a hydraulic pump. An engine, or electric motor, drives the pump shaft, and supplies the power for the system. The oil from the pump runs to a hydraulic valve, which provides control over the movement of the cylinder.

The oil source is a hydraulic reservoir (tank) which is connected directly to the inlet port of the pump. Most use AW32 viscosity (approx 10 wt.) hydraulic oil, which is of course an important part of any hydraulic system. There is a vented filler cap on the reservoir which allows air to “breathe” in and out. A simple air filter in it keeps dirt out.

A hydraulic relief valve controls the maximum pressure which can be created by the pump, and is a safety valve. It is usually located within the housing of the directional control valve. It is rarely in the pump. Without a relief, most hydraulic pumps will build pressure until something breaks, like a hose, or the cylinder, or the pump itself.

Most log splitters use a 2-stage gear pump which is a special type of hydraulic pump. They are rarely used in any other hydraulic systems. But they are widely available and relatively cheap because so many are sold for logsplitters.

Let’s start with the basics. Gear pumps are the most common, and least expensive type of hydraulic pump. They consist of 2 shafts, each with a gear which meshes with its twin to drive oil from the inlet port to the outlet or pressure port. Oil is trapped in the cavities between the gear teeth and carried around the outside of the gear toward the outlet port. The meshed gear teeth in the center keep oil from returning to the inlet side. One shaft sticks out of the housing and is driven by the engine. The other shaft is hidden within the pump housing. The one gear drives the other.

Two stage pumps give splitters great performance using small engines. A 2-stage pump consists of 2 gear pumps in a single housing, and a bypass valve. One gear set is about 3 times the size (length) of the second. When the valve is in neutral & system pressure is low, both gear sets are pumping oil into the system. With a “16 GPM” pump, they will pump 16 GPM when the pump shaft is rotated (by the engine) at 3400 RPM. That is, the combination of the outputs from both gear sets equals 16 GPM.

When the valve is shifted it moves the cylinder quite quickly. But when the log hits the wedge, the resistance increases, and pressure is backed up against the pump. Now the bypass valve comes into play. When the back pressure reaches 700 – 800 PSI, oil from the larger set of gears is allowed to pass back to the inlet side of the pump (at almost 0 PSI) rather than being forced out the pressure port. So the only oil being forced out is from the small gear set. This takes a lot less horsepower and allows the use of a reasonably small engine to develop the high pressure necessary to split wood, while giving the cylinder good speed when not under a heavy load (which is most of the time). The opening and closing of the bypass is automatic, activated by the oil pressure. It’s so smooth it’s usually difficult to notice it is happening. So 2-stage pumps give our log splitters the best of both: high pressure when we need it, and high speed the rest of the time.

We sometimes see home made log splitters with single stage pumps, often reused from another type of machine. They are usually quite slow unless a much bigger than normal engine is used.

The cylinder is the “actuator” of the system: it converts the hydraulic pressure and flow into force to split the wood, and speed to make it efficient. The larger the cylinder diameter the more force (tonnage) it puts out, but the slower it will go: it takes more oil to fill, and so takes longer.

The most common size for log splitters is “4 x 24″, 4″ bore by 24″ stroke. With 2500 PSI from the pump it can exert over 31,000 lbs of push force. To compare, a 5″ bore cylinder can produce 49,000 lbs force with the same pump, over 1 1/2 times as much. But the 5” cylinder will go 36% slower, which is why they are not common on ordinary splitters.

Yes, I know, there are plenty of log splitters rated for much more force. And my 4 cylinder Toyota may be rated for 140 MPH. It’s a sales game. The big numbers are theoretical maximums, not practical working pressures.

1. Pushed one way it shunts oil from the pump to the base port of the cylinder, causing it to extend. And it simultaneously allows oil from the rod-end port of the cylinder to flow into the return line.

2. When let go, the spool springs back to the neutral position; the oil from the pump is allowed straight through to the return port where it is recycled back to the tank, and the cylinder ports are blocked so the cylinder is stopped and held in position.

The relief valve consists of a heavy spring with a compression adjustment screw, and a ball or poppet against a seat. This is in a channel between the pressure inlet port and the return port, with the ball or poppet blocking the flow. If the oil pressure reaches the adjustment setting, perhaps 2500 PSI, it overcomes the spring pressure, the poppet backs off, and oil from the pump is allowed to bypass directly to the valve outlet, thus limiting the maximum oil pressure in the system. At normal working pressures, the relief remains closed and is not involved in the circuit.

The hydraulic oil for the system is stored in a tank, usually steel. Reservoirs serve two important functions: They allow the oil to settle any air bubbles and contamination particles; and they allow the oil to cool while it’s not circulating.

To provide sufficient cooling, the tank should be sized to hold at least one minute’s worth of oil. (16 gallons for a 16 GPM pump.) Oil which is too hot, 180F, will harden seals, and will be too thin to lubricate the spinning pump parts, causing early pump failure. We recommend 150F as the working maximum oil temperature.

The suction and return ports should be on the sides of the tank, a couple of inches above the bottom to avoid any sludge which may have settled there. The suction line should be low enough to never ingest any air, and the return should be low so as not to stir any air into the oil. Further, the 2 ports should be separated enough to avoid the hot returning oil from being immediately sucked back into the pump line.

Every good hydraulic system has a filter to remove fine contamination particles from the oil. The recommended rating is 10 microns, (10 microns equals 0.00039 inches; about 1/5 the diameter of a human hair). A filter this fine would plug the suction line, so it must be installed on the return, typically right at the tank return port.

Suction strainers in the tank are 100 micron or more, so can not catch the fine, damaging particles like the return filter. And if they get plugged they may starve the pump, greatly shortening its life. They are not recommended.

Hydraulic oil is blended with chemical additives beneficial for hydraulic systems. They help resist wear, shed contamination, maintain viscosity when cold, resist foaming, rust and oxidation, etc. Typical viscosity is around SAE 10, usually labelled AW32.

Hydraulic oil is not subjected to the burning temperatures of combustion engines, so it usually lasts a long time. The recommendation is to change oil if it is excessively dirty, or milky (water contamination) or smells bad or burned. If not, it’s better to just change the filter and save the cost of an oil change.

How to get more force? Either more pressure, or a larger cylinder. The pressure you probably can’t change much. Check the relief setting on your directional valve. It controls the maximum. We don’t suggest more than 2500 PSI, which is the practical maximum for most gear pumps. Yes they are sometimes rated at 3000 PSI or more. But that’s like driving your car 125 MPH. It may be able to do it, but all the time? Not such a good idea. Virtually all logsplitter pumps are rated for the same pressure. What’s the difference between pumps? Bigger gears, which produce more flow, which means more speed. And requires more horsepower to drive them. To get more force, you’ll need a larger bore cylinder. If you want the same speed as a smaller cylinder, you’ll need a larger pump, and probably a larger engine to drive it.

How to get more speed? Either more flow (GPM), or a smaller cylinder. The smaller cylinder won’t require more power, but will produce less force. More flow comes from a larger pump. So you’ll get the same force but will need to supply more horsepower to the new pump.

One other factor to consider for log splitter cylinders is the rod diameter. The larger the rod, the faster the cylinder will retract. (It takes less oil to fill the return end of the cylinder.) Of course it also increases the cost of the cylinder, but if you have the choice, choose the cylinder with the larger rod.

Troubleshooting your log splitter really isn’t as daunting a task as you’d think it’d be. Thanks to the great design of our log splitters, pretty much nothing can go wrong which is unfixable. We stock all the spare parts you could ever need, but first, we need to work out the problem.

There are four main categories of troubleshooting; power issues, log splitter ram failing to move correctly, oil leakage or the log splitter failing to split logs.

It may often appear as though something critical has affected your log splitter, such as the ram failing to move or it appears as though there’s no power getting to the log splitter. More often than not, there are small errors that can be easily fixed.

If you’re not comfortable playing around with your log splitter – let us take a look for you. We offer a log splitter repair service, no matter the brand. We offer a full repair of your log splitter. This includes collecting your machine, repairing it in our workshop and delivery back to yourself. The repair may include a full strip-down, rebuild or fitting of replacement parts.

Check that the plastic knob of the lever is screwed on fully. If this becomes unscrewed it then prevents the lever from being pushed right down, and this prevents the log splitter from operating.

The oil level in your log splitter may be running low, you can check this by using the dipstick. You can also run a quick test by raising the front end of the log splitter on a block of wood or something similar. If you raise the front of the log splitter and the log splitter then starts operating as normal, then this is a clear sign that you are low on oil.

This is similar to the last, but when the log splitter is pointing downhill it struggles to circulate the fluid right around the machine. This causes it to fail when operating.

The log splitter should always be operated on level ground or pointing uphill. If your log splitter is failing to split any logs, 90% of the time this will be the issue. If the log splitter is not pointing downhill then it’s likely low oil.

Now that we’ve covered the most common issues and quick fixes. Let’s look at some of the rare problems which can affect the performance of the log splitter.

Place the log splitter back upright and try the splitter again, if it produces the same noise then loosen the bolts a little from the end of the pump (13mm) and try again.

The capacitor in the electric motor can fail from misuse over time. When operating the log splitter, we strongly advise that you press the power button before operating the lever, this allows time for the motor to gather speed before attempting to split logs.

As stated previously, the capacitor failing will also stop the motor from starting up. After you have checked the previous solutions, unplug the log splitter from the mains. Then remove the six screws on the outside of the switch cover, take the switch cover off and you will then see the capacitor.

Pump gears binding is an issue that can sometimes present itself within a log splitter which would cause a trip. This is easily fixed by loosening each of the 6 bolts on the back of the pump by ¼ of a turn and then checking to see if the motor turns freely.

Pump gears can also get jammed. To fix this you should remove the 6 bolts from the pump and separate the motor and pump. You can then check the gears for any silicone sealant or other material. When you’re reassembling, the torque for the bolts is 12 ft-lb, 16 N m.

If the ram of the log splitter is not returning fully or is jerking upon return, there are a couple of fixes you can perform to get it back up and running smoothly.

First, check that the moving carriage isn’t obstructed. You can do this by checking underneath the blade/pusher and down the sides of the carriage for any splinters of wood that may be obstructing the carriage.

This one is fairly simple to figure out but check the log bed of the splitter for a build-up of sap. You can then also apply a thin layer of workshop grease to the bed to allow it to operate more smoothly. Avoid using WD-40 to grease the bed as this can lead to the log splitter ram ‘juddering’ rather than solving the issue.

Another possibility is that the ram is bent. Remove the DuoCut blade from the splitter. If the ram does not return after removing the DuoCut blade, loosen the 2 rear lock nuts on the carriage arms and remove the 2 nuts in front of the crosspiece. You can then remove the carriage from the log splitter. If the ram does not return then the next part is a bit tricky so give us a call.

A broken flexible pump coupler, clogged hydraulic fluid filter, failed hydraulic control valve, broken hydraulic pump or faulty hydraulic cylinder can prevent the hydraulic cylinder from extending the wedge on a log splitter.

Accessing the flexible pump coupler is fairly easy, so check that part first. The flexible pump coupler connects the engine drive shaft to the hydraulic pump. The coupler is designed to break if the hydraulic pump seizes up, protecting the engine from damage. Because the flexible coupler is plastic, the coupler can deteriorate over time and crack or break. Replace the flexible coupler if it"s broken or damaged.

If the flexible coupler broke, try to rotate the hydraulic pump drive shaft with the drive shaft disconnected from the engine drive shaft to check for a locked-up hydraulic pump. If you can"t rotate the hydraulic pump shaft, you"ll likely need to replace the hydraulic pump. You"ll also need to replace the hydraulic pump if it"s leaking hydraulic fluid because the pump can"t build up hydraulic fluid pressure to extend the wedge to split a piece of wood if its seals leak.

Hydraulic fluid leaking from the hydraulic control valve or hydraulic cylinder often indicates that the leaking part has failed. You"ll likely need to replace the control valve and/or cylinder if they leak hydraulic fluid.

Although it doesn"t happen often, a clogged hydraulic fluid filter can impede hydraulic fluid flow and prevent the cylinder from extending the wedge. Check the hydraulic fluid filter and replace the filter if it"s clogged.

This 2 stage pump can give you much faster cycle times and higher possible pressures with a small engine. Excellent for use on log splitters. 85% efficient.

Model GP-CBN is a HI/LO hydraulic gear pump with 12 different displacement combinations with maximum pressures of 900 psi for the low pressure pump and 3000 psi for the high pressure. The change from LO to HI pressure is automatic with the LO side pressure pre set from 400 psi to 900 psi.

The HI/LO section of the pump is all aluminum and the end plates are cast steel. Applications for the HI/LO pump are log splitters, presses etc where rapid movement of the cylinder at low pressure is required prior to automatically switching to the high pressure mode to meet load requirements.

Call 1-800-823-4937 for information on choosing the hydraulic log splitter pumps, valves or cylinders that are right for you. Wood splitter parts and accessories are available to build your own hydraulic log splitter or repair one that is factory made.

A: To determine which pump to purchase, you will need to know the following: what HP engine will you be powering my log splitter with, what size reservoir capacity do you have available, what type of pump mount you will be using?

A: There are two common types of mounts used on log-splitters. There is a four-bolt mount and a two-bolt mount. The four-bolt mount pumps generally come in 5gpm-16 gpm sizes and have a ½” keyed shaft about 1-1/2” long. The two-bolt mount pumps come in 22gpm and 28gpm sizes and have a 5/8” keyed shaft that can differ in length.

A: If your log-splitter is moving slow but still capable of splitting the wood it always has, it is most likely stuck in its second stage. In the second stage (or low flow/high-pressure stage) the pump produces 25% or less of its rated GPM but it does it at a higher pressure. The transition from the first stage (or high flow/low-pressure) is an automatic process achieved via internal valving with in the pump. If something within that valving has malfunctioned, and it is typically more economical to just replace the whole pump.

1. If the engine bogs down and stalls out, the pump is likely stuck in its first stage. In the first stage (or high flow/low-pressure stage) the pump produces its rated GPM but it does it at about 400-900psi. The transition from the first stage (or high flow/low-pressure) to the second stage (or low flow/high-pressure stage) is an automatic process achieved via internal valving with in the pump. If something within that valving has malfunctioned, and it is typically more economical to just replace the whole pump.

2. If the engine bogs down slightly but fails to stall out, you most likely have a bad seal on the cylinder piston. It is often more cost effective to rebuild a cylinder than to replace it depending on the extent of any internal damage. Consult with your local hydraulics shop.

A: 2-stage log splitter pumps are sized by how many gallons per minute (GPM) they flow in the low-pressure stage. Most 2-stage Log-splitter pumps will safely create 3000 psi regardless of how quickly they transfer the fluid doing it. So, there is not actually a more “powerful” pump, just slower or faster.

A: The size of splitter is typically specified in tons of splitting force. This number is determined by the surface area of the piston multiplied by the pressure applied by the pump. The amount of tonnage that you will need depends predominately on the type and size of wood that you will be splitting. Hardwoods such as oak and hickory take more force to split than most coniferous soft woods like spruce and fir. The Janka rating is the measurement that they use to rate the hardness of wood. The higher the number, the harder the wood. Log diameter size is another important factor in the amount of force required to split the log. One of the most important factors in determining the Tonnage required to split logs is the moisture content. See below for a decent chart for tonnage requirements for seasoned wood. You will need 50-75% more tonnage for splitting green wood.

A: The tonnage rating on your log-splitter is determined by two distinct factors; piston surface area and pounds of force per square inch (psi) supplied by the pump acting upon that surface. To determine the piston surface area, you must take half of the bore diameter, and multiply that number by itself. Then take that number and multiply by pi (approximately 3.14). This will give you the surface area in square inches. Although your hydraulic pump will be rated to a certain maximum pressure rating, typically 3500psi, most log splitter hydraulic systems have a relief valve limiting the amount of pressure supplied to the cylinder and other components. To find the tonnage of your log-splitter you will take the relief valve setting in pounds per square inch multiplied by the surface area of the piston in square inches, then divide that number by 2000 pounds per ton. See example below for a 4-1/2”cylinder at 3000psi:

A: Your valve will have four ports. The IN port is supplied by the hydraulic line coming directly from the pump. The OUT port will return the flow of oil directly to the reservoir. That leaves the two work ports on the valve. The work port closest to the valve handle will be connected to the barrel port (extending) on the cylinder. Attach the other valve port to the rod port (collapsing) side. See the figure below.

A: Typical Log-splitter valves have three positions. Extend – Center – Retract. The extend position directs flow to where the cylinder expands thus forcing the wedge through the log to be split. The handle must be held in this position to maintain cylinder movement. The valve will spring to center from the extend position when the handle is released. The retract position of a log-splitter valve has a feature commonly referred to as a pressure kick-out detent. Pulling the valve into the retract position detent will cause the cylinder to collapse until it is fully pulled in without holding onto the valve handle. Once the pump pressure builds to a pre-set amount, the internal workings of the valve will force the handle back into the center position automatically.

A: The hoses on your log-splitter should have the rating printed or embossed onto the outside sheathing of the line. If it is not visible or readable it is a distinct indicator of weather damage and or rot, and you should look to have them replaced.

Your log-splitter requires multiple hoses and could potentially have three different pressure ratings (see figure below). The suction line shown in green does not see any pressure, on the contrary they usually have some sort of structure to keep the hose from collapsing. The return lines shown in orange do not typically see much for pressure, but they are typically rated to 350 psi. The actual pressure lines shown in red should be rated to at least 3500psi for your typical log-splitter application.

A: Most Hydraulic systems can be safely operated with either ATF (automatic Transmission Fluid) or a standard petroleum based hydraulic oil. Some Log-splitters have a replaceable filter assembly to help clean the oil clean. If your log-splitter does not have a replaceable filter it would be beneficial to use ATF and allow the detergents in the fluid to help keep things clean.

A: There are many manufacturers of log-splitters out there, and just as many if not more manufacturers of cylinders. The only way to know for sure which cylinder that you have is to contact the log-splitter manufacturer with the model and serial number of your unit and ask for a parts breakdown for their part number for the seal kit.

If this is not an option for you for whatever reason, you can disassemble your cylinder and match up the seals by example with your local hydraulics shop. If you do not have a local shop, or they do not offer this type of service, you will need to measure the hard component dimensions of your cylinder. You will then need to match them with the dimensions of available seals with a seal supplier such as Seal Source, Hercules Sealing Products, or any other national seal supplier. Many of them have an online interface to help you make this selection.

A: There are many manufacturers of log-splitters out there, and just as many if not more manufacturers of cylinders. The only way to know for sure which cylinder that you have is to contact the log-splitter manufacturer with the model and serial number of your unit and ask for a parts breakdown for their part number for the cylinder that they used on that specific unit.

A: The first step in selecting a replacement cylinder for your log-splitter is identifying what style of cylinder that you currently have. While many manufacturers utilize common style cylinders, many do not. Please see the figures below for the most readily available styles.

If your cylinder is mounted on lugs coming out of the side of the cylinder, this is what they would call a trunnion style cylinder. Trunnion mount cylinders are almost entirely exclusive to the log-splitter manufacturer. You will need to get a replacement from the original manufacturer or contact a machine shop to recreate the mounts on a more common cylinder.

Once you have determined the style of cylinder you are looking for, you will need to determine bore size, the mounting pin to pin length (both collapsed and extended), the rod diameter, and pin hole sizes. Drawings are usually available for individual cylinders to insure a proper fit. It might be necessary to have a local shop alter your log-splitter frame to accept the cylinder, or alter the cylinder to fit your machine.

A: 2-stage log splitter pumps are sized by how many gallons per minute (GPM) they flow in the low-pressure stage. While operating below the bypass setting the pump will transfer that number of gallons per minute.

A: Availability of replacement parts for log-splitter valves depends on the manufacturer of the valve. You will first need to identify the manufacturer of the valve. Northern Hydraulics carries replacement handles and brackets for Cross MFG valves and replacement brackets and detents for the Energy MFG log-splitter valves

A:The retract position of a log-splitter valve has a feature commonly referred to as a pressure kick-out detent. Pulling the valve into the retract position detent will cause the cylinder to collapse until it is fully pulled in without holding onto the valve handle. Once the pump pressure builds to a pre-set amount, the internal passages in the valve will force the spool back into the center position automatically.

Log splitter control valves are high-performing hydraulic log splitting control valves available in a range of work port sizes and flow rates. These log splitters are fitted with a hydraulic cylinder that pushes log pieces into a sharp wedge, splitting them into two. Hydraulic oil drives the cylinder under pressure which the hydraulic pump produces. An electric or engine motor drives the shaft of the pump while providing power to operate the system. The oil moves from the pump into the hydraulic valve, controlling cylinder movement and creating maximum force. At Magister Hydraulics, we have a high-quality log splitting control valve including the following:

As a leading hydraulic supplier, we ensure to source all our products from leading manufacturers produced according to American standards and made in Europe. Our heavy-duty hydraulic control valve has a durable and corrosion-resistant cast iron monoblock body. These are designed to seamlessly direct and manage the hydraulic flow of oil between hydraulic cylinders, pumps, tanks, motors and come with a handle.

Hard to rate this as it seems like it might work well if I had the clearance. Be aware that the inlet port is a 1" tube that is fairly long and the threading is not something standard so you can"t just swap it out to whatever type of connection you may need. I"m still trying to figure out what the threading is. My old pump had an elbow at the inlet and to use the new one it puts a significant kink in my hose. So before you buy this make sure you have the clearance where the inlet (from tank) is going to be to run your hose out straight. I just assumed that I could swap fittings or buy a new one. Neither the seller or the manufacturer seem to be able to answer me on what size the fitting is.

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If you have ever tried splitting wood by swinging an ax, you might agree that it’s an extremely labor-intensive task. Given the motion and force that needs to be exerted in order to split the wood, the task can quite feel like a punishment. If you’re sick of cutting your firewood via manual labor, consider investing in a good quality log splitter.

If a log splitter has a spec cycle time of 15 seconds, that’s how long it takes to split a log: the faster the cycle time, the more work done in less time.

The size of a cylinder can be associated with a slower cycle time. A log splitter with a smaller cylinder typically sacrifices some splitting force. The type of hydraulic pump also plays a part in what affects the cycle time.

An average log splitter cuts wood way faster than an ax. But if you really want to get the task done and over with quickly, you might want to speed up the machine’s cycle time. Below are the tips on how to do it.

To increase cycle time, you will need a bigger hydraulic fluid pump; however, this could also call for the need to increase the size of your hydraulic tank. This is to prevent the hydraulic fluid from overheating. To accommodate the increased hydraulic fluid flow, you will then need bigger hydraulic hoses and larger supply lines. Quite an expense, right?

Another option is to get a 2-stage hydraulic pump. There are two modes of operation in a 2-stage hydraulic pump. When the return stroke has no load, it pumps a larger volume at low pressure and moves the ram back quickly. Pressure increases, and the pump switches to high-pressure mode once the ram hits the wood. Basically, a 2-stage hydraulic pump speeds up the whole process by requiring less power in moving the splitting ram.

Harder woods require more force to split successfully. Luckily, you don’t need to purchase separate log splitters for catering to every type of wood. Instead, adjust the pump pressure, and you’re ready to go.

Start the Engine – The first step is to start your log splitter’s engine. Turning the engine on will help reflect the capacity of the engine. Once you turn on the engine, wait for the hydraulic to warm up. Only proceed to the next step when the engine has reached its idling speed.

Adjust the Pressure – To test the pressure capacity of the pump, adjust the screw using a flat-blade screwdriver. The pressure increases as you turn the screw clockwise, while it decreases as you turn the pressure counter-clockwise.

Speeding up a log splitter’s cycle time costs a lot of money. If you are splitting logs by yourself, there’s no need to speed up the cycle time. The machine is already done splitting before you could even grab the next log.

If the splitter motor suddenly dies under load or while a log is loaded in the machine, you may be faced with various problems. Check out the following issues and learn how to fix them.

Just like any engine, any clog or air in the log splitter fuel line will cause a stall. Take note that this can happen even if you have a full gas tank or if you just used the splitter for the first time.

To remove air or any clog from the fuel lines, open the system and shake the log splitter to move air out of the lines. Open the fuel lines. If you find air bubbles then these are signs that air has mixed with the fuel.

Correct problems like vibration which usually cause bubbles to form. Remove the air more efficiently by opening the splitter’s bleed valve and cycling the pressure system back and forth.

A non-starting engine such as a Briggs and Stratton engine must be checked right away. An engine that dies right after a full-throttle can be a sign of engine failure. A technician may check the air filter, a bad pump/bad fuel, carburetor, and other engine components. And even if the engine is running, a technician may test for anything that sounds like trouble like clanking, wheezing, or sputtering.

Stalling may happen to most old hydraulic-powered splitters. A splitter may stop while in the middle of splitting wood or may completely stall before it starts to rip wood because of leaking fluid or reduced hydraulic pressure. Leaking hydraulic fluid will reduce pressure cause stalling and sometimes the splitter may not move at all.

To find out if this is the reason for stalling, check the hydraulic fluid pressure gauge, relief valve, and other components of the hydraulic system. If you find a leak, this may be due to an old hydraulic system.  Also, low hydraulic fluid levels can lead to stalling. You should have your splitter serviced and refilled with new hydraulic fluids.

Any problems with various log splitter components can lead to stalling even under load. Check components like the stage pump, pressure gauge, hydraulic pump, two-stage pump, relief valve, control valve, spark plug, and pressure relief valve. If you have an old or second-hand splitter, inspect and change these components as needed.

For an electric power log splitter, problems with your power source and extension cords could be reasons for a stalling motor. The only way for an electric log splitter to efficiently chop wood is to plug it into a reliable power source or extension cord.

A log splitter may not work well under extremely cold temperatures. When these machines are kept in storage for long periods, the hydraulic oil becomes thicker. This results in a weaker response up to the point that the splitter starts to warm up.

Another problem that users often encounter is when a splitter is unable to push the wood or the force is not enough to split the log. Just like a stalling splitter, problems with the hydraulics and fuel lines are common culprits.

It is also possible for an old log splitter to start failing especially when it’s poorly maintained. For this, take your old machine to a service center or consider an upgrade.

An efficient log splitter needs the right amount of splitting power and force to split an average-sized, well-seasoned log. We recommend a splitter with a 5-horsepower engine with a two-stage hydraulic pump with 2500 psi.

There are many reasons why log splitters stall or stop under load and why splitters slow down. Problems with the fuel lines, hydraulic system, other engine components, and power supply for electric-powered splitters are the most common reasons. Take time to maintain or care for your log splitter to avoid these common problems.

Get 3 point log splitters and 22 ton log splitters from Agri Supply to breeze through all your wood cutting needs. You can tow these wood splitters anywhere on your property for the ultimate in convenience. You"ll also find log splitter parts and repair kits for your hydraulics systems to keep your log splitters in peak working order. From wood splitter parts to clevis rod ends, we have something for everyone.

Choose log splitters that can operate in both a horizontal and vertical position. Our wood splitters feature cradles to steady the wood on the beam without the need to use your hands.

Gas-powered log splitters from Agri Supply have enough power to get the job done fast. With these wood splitters, you"ll never have to chop logs again to prepare for the winter. We offer quality log splitter parts, of course, to keep your 3 Point and 22 ton log splitters in tip-top condition. Besides wood splitter parts, you"ll find hydraulics accessories such as hoses and filter heads, too.

Our 22 ton log splitters make a quick and easy job of splitting wood at your home, farm or shop. Plus, these wood splitters can be towed to any location on your property for convenience. For log splitter parts and hydraulics parts, look no further than Agri Supply. Wood splitter parts are just the start of the items you"ll find when you check out our more than 26,000 products for farm, shop, home and garden.

This 2 stage pump can give you much faster cycle times and higher possible pressures with a small engine. Excellent for use on log splitters. 85% efficient.

Model GP-CBN is a HI/LO hydraulic gear pump with 12 different displacement combinations with maximum pressures of 900 psi for the low pressure pump and 3000 psi for the high pressure. The change from LO to HI pressure is automatic with the LO side pressure pre set from 400 psi to 900 psi.

The HI/LO section of the pump is all aluminum and the end plates are cast steel. Applications for the HI/LO pump are log splitters, presses etc where rapid movement of the cylinder at low pressure is required prior to automatically switching to the high pressure mode to meet load requirements.