wood splitter hydraulic pump problems manufacturer

Hydraulic Log Splitter systems use pressurised fluid to power a force that is used behind a wedge to split wood. If the log splitter seems weak or not performing as it should then there is a strong likelihood that something is not right with how the splitter system is operating.

To begin with, check your log splitter and the wood you are trying to split. If a log is not splitting all the way through then the log may be too green or too large, meaning that it would require a greater force than your log splitting machine can manage. Also make sure the log is loaded properly and isn’t on an angle or is too long. If this is in order, then take a look at the wedge itself, as with heavy use they can become blunt and stop cutting as they should.

These vibrations or shaking could be due to the log splitter being low in hydraulic oil. If the levels look correct when checking this could mean that there is air within the oil lines. To fix this the bleed valve needs to be opened and the pressure plate needs to be cycled back and forth a few times.

Temperature could also be the culprit for loss of driving force, as hydraulic oil is more viscose in cold weather resulting in a weak response until the machine warms up.

The nut for the ram has possibly come off the piston if the ram has extended but not retracted. With the engine off, hold open the valve and push it back in using a narrow rod. However, with this issue you may need to bring it in or contact one of the Flowfit team to discuss replacing the nut to prevent damaging your hydraulic log splitter system if you use it again.

Log splitters are a relatively simple design, making them easy to maintain and fix, but if issues are persisting or you aren’t confident with fixing this machine then please do seek professional advice.

Long term wear: If a pump has thousands of hours of reliable work behind it, it may just wear out. The seals get hard, critical surfaces get worn down, bearings wear out. The symptoms will be gradually decreasing power, & increasing leakage. Such pumps may be rebuildable, but often are more economical to replace. And they probably don’t owe you anything!

Contamination: This is a more common cause of wear, and sometimes catastrophic pump failure. Abrasive dust from the air breathing in & out of the reservoir, rust particles from the inside of the tank when it sits unused, and wear particles from the pump and other components of the system are all sources of contamination. The symptoms are similar to long term wear: gradually decreasing power due to scored metal surfaces, burred gear teeth, parts worn until the clearances are too great. Hydraulic oil needs to be filtered by a fine (usually 10 micron) filter on the return side of the circuit. And the filter must be changed regularly. Tank breathers should also have some air filtering mechanism. Changing the filter element is usually more important than changing the oil.

Cavitation or Aeration: Cavitation is the “starvation” of incoming oil to the pump inlet. The pump wants to pull in more oil than the line from the tank will allow, due to a too-small or restricted suction hose, or to turning the shaft too fast. Small inlet hoses, inlet strainers, too many fittings, too much head lift are the common causes of cavitation. Oil which is too thick, especially when cold, is another common cause*. The increased vacuum on the incoming oil causes dissolved gasses to become bubbles, similar to a bottle of soda when it is opened. The bubbles adhere to the metal surfaces in the pump and collapse violently when moved to the pressure side of the pump chamber. They gradually eat away the metal surfaces on the pressure side.

The symptoms will first be a whining noise, especially when the system is pressurized (loaded). It is sometimes mistaken for a bad bearing. The return oil may be foamy. In severe cases the tank may overflow with foamy oil. After the internal erosion is severe the pump will lose power.

Overheating: This is an often-ignored cause of pump failure as well as other serious system problems. A hydraulic system produces heat and the oil absorbs it. The system also radiates heat, mostly from metal surfaces. The hotter it gets, the faster it radiates the heat so eventually the rate of radiation equals the rate of heat creation. If this temperature is over 180º F, bad things start to happen in the system. Seals get hardened and start to leak, hoses lose flexibility and crack, and the oil gets too thin to lubricate moving metal parts and they are scored or galled.

The most usual means of insuring adequate heat radiation is by using a good sized reservoir. And using a too-small reservoir is often responsible for a too-hot system. The “rule of thumb” is to size the tank for one minute’s oil flow from the pump, i.e. for a 16 GPM pump, use a minimum 16 gal. tank. (The rule for industrial systems is 3 minute’s worth of oil.) For systems with heavy constant loads, especially driving hydraulic motors, more cooling capacity will be required. For example, bush hogs and gravel shakers. Heat exchangers (radiators) are often installed when a large reservoir cannot be used. But they must have a power source to drive the fan, often impractical on smaller systems. Systems used for less than 15 minutes and then allowed to cool can use small reservoirs.

Pumps used in an overheated system usually don’t last long. First they leak as the seals break down, and then the insides are worn and galled from lack of lubrication. Remember, your system doesn’t care how difficult or inconvenient it is for you to control the temperature! If it gets too hot, you will pay.

The hydraulic pump controls the flow of fluid within the pump system. Most log splitter hydraulic pumps will be two-stage pumps, meaning that they can force the liquid within them to move in two different directions, which allows for the hydraulic arm to be pushed forward to split wood, and also retracted so the machine can be reloaded with a new log. The seals on these pumps wear over time and eventually can cause hydraulic fluid to leak out of the system. If fluid is leaking from your pump, disassemble it and replace all seals. When repairing a damaged pump it is important to carefully analyze and address the rest of the hydraulic system. When the pump fails it will often send metal debris throughout the hydraulic system. At a minimum it will be necessary to thoroughly flush the hydraulic fluid and replace the filter. Debris left in the system can quickly ruin a new pump.

Troubleshooting your log splitter really isn’t as daunting a task as you’d think it’d be. Thanks to the great design of our log splitters, pretty much nothing can go wrong which is unfixable. We stock all the spare parts you could ever need, but first, we need to work out the problem.

There are four main categories of troubleshooting; power issues, log splitter ram failing to move correctly, oil leakage or the log splitter failing to split logs.

It may often appear as though something critical has affected your log splitter, such as the ram failing to move or it appears as though there’s no power getting to the log splitter. More often than not, there are small errors that can be easily fixed.

If you’re not comfortable playing around with your log splitter – let us take a look for you. We offer a log splitter repair service, no matter the brand. We offer a full repair of your log splitter. This includes collecting your machine, repairing it in our workshop and delivery back to yourself. The repair may include a full strip-down, rebuild or fitting of replacement parts.

Check that the plastic knob of the lever is screwed on fully. If this becomes unscrewed it then prevents the lever from being pushed right down, and this prevents the log splitter from operating.

The oil level in your log splitter may be running low, you can check this by using the dipstick. You can also run a quick test by raising the front end of the log splitter on a block of wood or something similar. If you raise the front of the log splitter and the log splitter then starts operating as normal, then this is a clear sign that you are low on oil.

This is similar to the last, but when the log splitter is pointing downhill it struggles to circulate the fluid right around the machine. This causes it to fail when operating.

The log splitter should always be operated on level ground or pointing uphill. If your log splitter is failing to split any logs, 90% of the time this will be the issue. If the log splitter is not pointing downhill then it’s likely low oil.

Now that we’ve covered the most common issues and quick fixes. Let’s look at some of the rare problems which can affect the performance of the log splitter.

Place the log splitter back upright and try the splitter again, if it produces the same noise then loosen the bolts a little from the end of the pump (13mm) and try again.

The capacitor in the electric motor can fail from misuse over time. When operating the log splitter, we strongly advise that you press the power button before operating the lever, this allows time for the motor to gather speed before attempting to split logs.

As stated previously, the capacitor failing will also stop the motor from starting up. After you have checked the previous solutions, unplug the log splitter from the mains. Then remove the six screws on the outside of the switch cover, take the switch cover off and you will then see the capacitor.

Pump gears binding is an issue that can sometimes present itself within a log splitter which would cause a trip. This is easily fixed by loosening each of the 6 bolts on the back of the pump by ¼ of a turn and then checking to see if the motor turns freely.

Pump gears can also get jammed. To fix this you should remove the 6 bolts from the pump and separate the motor and pump. You can then check the gears for any silicone sealant or other material. When you’re reassembling, the torque for the bolts is 12 ft-lb, 16 N m.

If the ram of the log splitter is not returning fully or is jerking upon return, there are a couple of fixes you can perform to get it back up and running smoothly.

First, check that the moving carriage isn’t obstructed. You can do this by checking underneath the blade/pusher and down the sides of the carriage for any splinters of wood that may be obstructing the carriage.

This one is fairly simple to figure out but check the log bed of the splitter for a build-up of sap. You can then also apply a thin layer of workshop grease to the bed to allow it to operate more smoothly. Avoid using WD-40 to grease the bed as this can lead to the log splitter ram ‘juddering’ rather than solving the issue.

Another possibility is that the ram is bent. Remove the DuoCut blade from the splitter. If the ram does not return after removing the DuoCut blade, loosen the 2 rear lock nuts on the carriage arms and remove the 2 nuts in front of the crosspiece. You can then remove the carriage from the log splitter. If the ram does not return then the next part is a bit tricky so give us a call.

Keep your hydraulics in motion with a wood splitter hydraulic pump from RuggedMade. Designed to meet the needs of high-force log splitting, our precision 2-stage hydraulic pumps ensure cylinders perform smoothly and rapidly, helping to shave down cycle times.

Our expanded line of one and two-stage log splitter pumps are constructed to produce up to 3,000 PSI and can also be used at the heart of a variety of hydraulic applications to keep fluid flowing freely and steadily, throughout the life of your machine.

This 2-Stage pump fits a wide variety of log splitters and outdoor power equipment and works in both horizontal and vertical orientations. The included inlet nipple requires a 1" inner diameter suction hose.

Rated for up to 3,000 PSI at 3,600 RPM, this pump can power log splitters from 5 to 35 tons, depending on the inner diameter of the hydraulic cylinder. It features a fast cycle time by moving quickly when unloaded. It automatically shifts to low-flow/high-pressure mode at 500 PSI.

Be sure to use AW-32 10-Weight (ISO 32) or AW-46 20-Weight (ISO 46) light hydraulic fluid or Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. This pump is not designed for use with “universal” or "tractor" transmission oil, such as "303". The use of incorrect fluid may damage the pump and void the warranty.

Make sure the hydraulic fluid reservoir is not below the pump to ensure a sufficient flow of fluid to the pump. Suction-side filtration should be no finer than 150 microns. The use of a 10-25 micron filter on the suction side of the pump is too restrictive and will cause failure.

We recommend using an L-style jaw coupling to connect the pump to an engine. Couplings and mounting brackets are available. You should use at least a 5hp 163cc engine to maintain 3,600 RPM under load.

A: To determine which pump to purchase, you will need to know the following: what HP engine will you be powering my log splitter with, what size reservoir capacity do you have available, what type of pump mount you will be using?

A: There are two common types of mounts used on log-splitters. There is a four-bolt mount and a two-bolt mount. The four-bolt mount pumps generally come in 5gpm-16 gpm sizes and have a ½” keyed shaft about 1-1/2” long. The two-bolt mount pumps come in 22gpm and 28gpm sizes and have a 5/8” keyed shaft that can differ in length.

A: If your log-splitter is moving slow but still capable of splitting the wood it always has, it is most likely stuck in its second stage. In the second stage (or low flow/high-pressure stage) the pump produces 25% or less of its rated GPM but it does it at a higher pressure. The transition from the first stage (or high flow/low-pressure) is an automatic process achieved via internal valving with in the pump. If something within that valving has malfunctioned, and it is typically more economical to just replace the whole pump.

1. If the engine bogs down and stalls out, the pump is likely stuck in its first stage. In the first stage (or high flow/low-pressure stage) the pump produces its rated GPM but it does it at about 400-900psi. The transition from the first stage (or high flow/low-pressure) to the second stage (or low flow/high-pressure stage) is an automatic process achieved via internal valving with in the pump. If something within that valving has malfunctioned, and it is typically more economical to just replace the whole pump.

2. If the engine bogs down slightly but fails to stall out, you most likely have a bad seal on the cylinder piston. It is often more cost effective to rebuild a cylinder than to replace it depending on the extent of any internal damage. Consult with your local hydraulics shop.

A: 2-stage log splitter pumps are sized by how many gallons per minute (GPM) they flow in the low-pressure stage. Most 2-stage Log-splitter pumps will safely create 3000 psi regardless of how quickly they transfer the fluid doing it. So, there is not actually a more “powerful” pump, just slower or faster.

A: The size of splitter is typically specified in tons of splitting force. This number is determined by the surface area of the piston multiplied by the pressure applied by the pump. The amount of tonnage that you will need depends predominately on the type and size of wood that you will be splitting. Hardwoods such as oak and hickory take more force to split than most coniferous soft woods like spruce and fir. The Janka rating is the measurement that they use to rate the hardness of wood. The higher the number, the harder the wood. Log diameter size is another important factor in the amount of force required to split the log. One of the most important factors in determining the Tonnage required to split logs is the moisture content. See below for a decent chart for tonnage requirements for seasoned wood. You will need 50-75% more tonnage for splitting green wood.

A: The tonnage rating on your log-splitter is determined by two distinct factors; piston surface area and pounds of force per square inch (psi) supplied by the pump acting upon that surface. To determine the piston surface area, you must take half of the bore diameter, and multiply that number by itself. Then take that number and multiply by pi (approximately 3.14). This will give you the surface area in square inches. Although your hydraulic pump will be rated to a certain maximum pressure rating, typically 3500psi, most log splitter hydraulic systems have a relief valve limiting the amount of pressure supplied to the cylinder and other components. To find the tonnage of your log-splitter you will take the relief valve setting in pounds per square inch multiplied by the surface area of the piston in square inches, then divide that number by 2000 pounds per ton. See example below for a 4-1/2”cylinder at 3000psi:

A: Your valve will have four ports. The IN port is supplied by the hydraulic line coming directly from the pump. The OUT port will return the flow of oil directly to the reservoir. That leaves the two work ports on the valve. The work port closest to the valve handle will be connected to the barrel port (extending) on the cylinder. Attach the other valve port to the rod port (collapsing) side. See the figure below.

A: Typical Log-splitter valves have three positions. Extend – Center – Retract. The extend position directs flow to where the cylinder expands thus forcing the wedge through the log to be split. The handle must be held in this position to maintain cylinder movement. The valve will spring to center from the extend position when the handle is released. The retract position of a log-splitter valve has a feature commonly referred to as a pressure kick-out detent. Pulling the valve into the retract position detent will cause the cylinder to collapse until it is fully pulled in without holding onto the valve handle. Once the pump pressure builds to a pre-set amount, the internal workings of the valve will force the handle back into the center position automatically.

A: The hoses on your log-splitter should have the rating printed or embossed onto the outside sheathing of the line. If it is not visible or readable it is a distinct indicator of weather damage and or rot, and you should look to have them replaced.

Your log-splitter requires multiple hoses and could potentially have three different pressure ratings (see figure below). The suction line shown in green does not see any pressure, on the contrary they usually have some sort of structure to keep the hose from collapsing. The return lines shown in orange do not typically see much for pressure, but they are typically rated to 350 psi. The actual pressure lines shown in red should be rated to at least 3500psi for your typical log-splitter application.

A: Most Hydraulic systems can be safely operated with either ATF (automatic Transmission Fluid) or a standard petroleum based hydraulic oil. Some Log-splitters have a replaceable filter assembly to help clean the oil clean. If your log-splitter does not have a replaceable filter it would be beneficial to use ATF and allow the detergents in the fluid to help keep things clean.

A: There are many manufacturers of log-splitters out there, and just as many if not more manufacturers of cylinders. The only way to know for sure which cylinder that you have is to contact the log-splitter manufacturer with the model and serial number of your unit and ask for a parts breakdown for their part number for the seal kit.

If this is not an option for you for whatever reason, you can disassemble your cylinder and match up the seals by example with your local hydraulics shop. If you do not have a local shop, or they do not offer this type of service, you will need to measure the hard component dimensions of your cylinder. You will then need to match them with the dimensions of available seals with a seal supplier such as Seal Source, Hercules Sealing Products, or any other national seal supplier. Many of them have an online interface to help you make this selection.

A: There are many manufacturers of log-splitters out there, and just as many if not more manufacturers of cylinders. The only way to know for sure which cylinder that you have is to contact the log-splitter manufacturer with the model and serial number of your unit and ask for a parts breakdown for their part number for the cylinder that they used on that specific unit.

A: The first step in selecting a replacement cylinder for your log-splitter is identifying what style of cylinder that you currently have. While many manufacturers utilize common style cylinders, many do not. Please see the figures below for the most readily available styles.

If your cylinder is mounted on lugs coming out of the side of the cylinder, this is what they would call a trunnion style cylinder. Trunnion mount cylinders are almost entirely exclusive to the log-splitter manufacturer. You will need to get a replacement from the original manufacturer or contact a machine shop to recreate the mounts on a more common cylinder.

Once you have determined the style of cylinder you are looking for, you will need to determine bore size, the mounting pin to pin length (both collapsed and extended), the rod diameter, and pin hole sizes. Drawings are usually available for individual cylinders to insure a proper fit. It might be necessary to have a local shop alter your log-splitter frame to accept the cylinder, or alter the cylinder to fit your machine.

A: 2-stage log splitter pumps are sized by how many gallons per minute (GPM) they flow in the low-pressure stage. While operating below the bypass setting the pump will transfer that number of gallons per minute.

A: Availability of replacement parts for log-splitter valves depends on the manufacturer of the valve. You will first need to identify the manufacturer of the valve. Northern Hydraulics carries replacement handles and brackets for Cross MFG valves and replacement brackets and detents for the Energy MFG log-splitter valves

A:The retract position of a log-splitter valve has a feature commonly referred to as a pressure kick-out detent. Pulling the valve into the retract position detent will cause the cylinder to collapse until it is fully pulled in without holding onto the valve handle. Once the pump pressure builds to a pre-set amount, the internal passages in the valve will force the spool back into the center position automatically.

Call 1-800-823-4937 for information on choosing the hydraulic log splitter pumps, valves or cylinders that are right for you. Wood splitter parts and accessories are available to build your own hydraulic log splitter or repair one that is factory made.

Log splitter control valves are high-performing hydraulic log splitting control valves available in a range of work port sizes and flow rates. These log splitters are fitted with a hydraulic cylinder that pushes log pieces into a sharp wedge, splitting them into two. Hydraulic oil drives the cylinder under pressure which the hydraulic pump produces. An electric or engine motor drives the shaft of the pump while providing power to operate the system. The oil moves from the pump into the hydraulic valve, controlling cylinder movement and creating maximum force. At Magister Hydraulics, we have a high-quality log splitting control valve including the following:

As a leading hydraulic supplier, we ensure to source all our products from leading manufacturers produced according to American standards and made in Europe. Our heavy-duty hydraulic control valve has a durable and corrosion-resistant cast iron monoblock body. These are designed to seamlessly direct and manage the hydraulic flow of oil between hydraulic cylinders, pumps, tanks, motors and come with a handle.