homemade mud pump pricelist

One of the more challenging aspects of developing pasture and grazing land is providing access to a reliable water supply for livestock. In some cases, existing streams, creeks, or ponds provide drinking water for the livestock. When a surface water source is not available, wells can be drilled and pumps installed to provide water for the animals. In some instances, surface water may be available, but not accessible to the livestock due to water quality issues, steep access slopes, or fencing issues.

Providing an electrical power source to such a location for a pump can be cost-prohibitive. Utilizing a pump powered by an internal combustion engine can require inspection and attention several times each day and regular fuel supply runs. Nose pumps and sling pumps may be used effectively in some of these situations, but these pumps will not work if the elevation difference between the water source and grazing area is greater than twenty feet. Solar-powered pumps are an excellent option but can be expensive depending on the flow rate and pressure needs of the system.

Figure 1. A 3/4-inch homemade hydraulic ram pump made with PVC fittings. Water flows from right to left during operation. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

One possible solution to providing livestock drinking water in remote locations is the hydraulic ram pump. The first development work of the hydraulic ram is reported to have been completed by John Whitehurst in 1772, with the first automatic version of the hydraulic ram developed by Joseph Montgolfier in 1796.1 Various companies in England and the United States have been producing cast-iron versions of the hydraulic ram since the early 1800s. Hydraulic ram pumps can lift water over a considerable elevation, and do not require any external power source.

Commercially sold hydraulic ram pumps last for decades but are quite expensive. A simple, homemade PVC (polyvinyl chloride) hydraulic ram pump (figure 1) may be constructed for $150 to $200 depending on material costs in your area and size of pump constructed. These homemade pumps will last for several years if not longer and can allow a farmer to see how such a pump would work before investing in a more expensive commercial unit.

Hydraulic ram pumps operate by utilizing pressure developed by a “water hammer” shock wave. Any object in motion has an inertial force. Energy is required to place the object in motion, and energy will also be required to stop the motion, with more energy being required if the motion is started or stopped quickly. A flow of water in a pipe also has inertia (or momentum) that resists sudden changes in velocity. Slowly closing a valve allows this inertia to dissipate over time, producing very little pressure increase in the pipe. Closing a valve very rapidly will create a pressure surge or shock wave as the flowing water stops, which moves back up the pipe – much like a train stopping, with individual train cars hitting the coupling in front of them in rapid succession as the brakes are applied. The more quickly the valve is closed, the larger the shock wave produced. A faster water flow will also produce a larger shock wave when a valve is closed, since more inertia or momentum is involved. A longer pipe will also produce a larger shock wave for the same reason.

A hydraulic ram relies on a non-pressurized flow of water in a pipe placed from the water source to the pump (called a “drive” pipe). This flow is produced by placing the hydraulic ram some distance below a water source and running the drive pipe from the water source to the pump. The hydraulic ram employs two check valves, which are the only moving parts in the pump.

Figure 6. Step 5: When the low-pressure wave reaches the drive pipe inlet, a normal pressure wave travels down the drive pipe to the valves. Normal water flow due to the elevation of the source water above the ram follows this pressure wave, and the next cycle begins. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University. The hydraulic ram pump cycle described in figures 2-6 may repeat from forty to ninety times per minute depending on elevation drop to the hydraulic ram pump, drive pipe length from the water source to the ram pump, and drive pipe material used. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

Figure 7. A typical hydraulic ram pump installation, with (a) drive pipe, (b) delivery pipe, and (c) hydraulic ram pump placement noted. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

In its simplest form, a hydraulic ram pump installation includes a drive pipe to bring water from the water source to the pump, the hydraulic ram pump, and a delivery pipe to take water from the pump to the water trough or site where water is needed (figure 7).

The drive pipe size determines the actual pump size and also determines the maximum flow rate that may be expected from the pump. Since the pump efficiency depends on capturing as much of the water hammer shock wave as possible, the best drive pipe material for a hydraulic ram pump installation is galvanized steel pipe. Most livestock producers use PVC pipe instead due to the lower cost and the difficulty in placing and assembling galvanized steel pipe. Hydraulic ram pump installations using a PVC drive pipe will work well, but the elasticity of the pipe will allow some of the water hammer shock wave to dissipate slightly with pipe wall expansion. If PVC pipe is used for the drive pipe installation, choose PVC piping with a thicker wall. Schedule 80 PVC pipe would be the better choice, with Schedule 40 PVC pipe being a secondary choice.

The best drive pipe installation would place the pipe on a constant slope from the water source to the hydraulic ram pump, with no bends or elbows, and anchor it with bolts and/or galvanized tie-downs to large rocks or concrete pads to prevent movement. This would allow the most efficient shock wave development. The Gravi-Chek Company suggests the optimum drive pipe slope is one foot of drop for every five feet of length, which corresponds to a 20% slope.2 However, this is not always practical in livestock water supply installations. The ram pump will work with piping that is not installed on a constant slope, as long as all piping slopes are either level or downward toward the pump (figure 8). There can be no “humps” or up-and-down installation points in the drive pipe, since this will allow air to be captured in the pipe, which will allow shock wave dissipation.

Figure 8. A PVC drive pipe placed in a stream bed. Galvanized steel was not an option due to the bed topography and geometry. The hydraulic ram pump worked well, but each bend allowed a tiny portion of the shock wave to dissipate. A straight, galvanized steel pipe would have captured a larger shock wave and provided more pressure. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

If a choice must be made between installing the drive pipe on a constant slope and using a more rigid drive pipe (such as galvanized steel), choose the more rigid drive pipe. This will have a larger impact on pump performance than the drive pipe slope.

There is a range of allowable drive pipe lengths for each pipe size used. If the drive pipe is too short or too long the pressure wave that allows the pump to cycle will not develop properly.

Rife Ram Company literature offers a different method of drive pipe length selection.4 The Rife method does not consider pipe size but is based solely on vertical elevation drop or fall from the water source to the hydraulic ram pump. Values are presented in table 2.

Figure 9. A hydraulic ram pump installation with a (a) standpipe and (b) supply pipe to allow a longer piping solution from water source to ram pump location. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

The Rife recommendations in table 2 maintain a given pipe slope for each range of elevation falls. Either method (table 1 or table 2) may be used to determine mainline length; satisfying both methods may provide the best ram pump performance.

There are installation solutions if the maximum drive pipe length allowed is not long enough to reach the water source from the hydraulic ram pump placement. One option is to install a “standpipe” at the maximum drive pipe distance from the ram pump (figure 9). This standpipe should be three pipe sizes larger than the drive pipe and should be open at the top to allow the water hammer shock wave to dissipate at that point. The standpipe should be installed vertically, with the top of the standpipe a foot or so above the level of the water source. Supply piping, which should be at least one pipe size larger than the drive pipe, is then run from that point to the water source.

Figure 10. Use of a carpenter’s level and a measuring stick to determine elevation drop from the water source to the proposed hydraulic ram pump location. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

Hydraulic ram pumps operate based on an amount of elevation drop or fall from the water source to the site where the ram pump is placed. The amount of drop will determine the performance of the ram pump. The amount of drop or fall available at a given location can be measured using a measuring stick and a carpenter’s level. Start at the site where the hydraulic ram pump will be placed. Hold the measuring stick vertically, placing one end on the ground. Place the carpenter’s level on the measuring stick, holding it level, with the top even with the top of the measuring stick. Look along the top of the carpenter’s level at the slope going up to the water supply, and sighting along the top of the level, pick a spot on the slope (figure 10). That point is the height of the measuring stick above the starting point. Move to that spot and repeat the sighting process, continuing up the slope after each sighting until the water supply is reached. Count the number of times the measuring stick was placed on the ground, multiply that number by the measuring stick’s length, add any partial stick measurement for the last sighting (see figure 10), and the result will be the elevation drop or fall from the water source to the ram pump location.

Hydraulic ram pumps are very inefficient, generally pumping only one gallon of water for every eight gallons of water passing through the ram. They will, however, pump water up ten feet (or more in some cases) of vertical elevation for every foot of elevation drop from the water source to the hydraulic ram. For instance, if there is an elevation drop of seven feet from the water source to the hydraulic ram, the user can expect the hydraulic ram to pump water up to seventy feet or more in vertical elevation above the ram. Higher delivery elevations do decrease the pump flow – the higher the elevation difference between the hydraulic ram and the delivery pipe outlet, the smaller the delivered water flow will be.

In this equation, Q is the available drive flow in gallons per minute, F is the fall in feet from the water source to the ram, E is the elevation from the ram to the water outlet, and D is the flow rate of the delivery water in gallons per minute. 0.6 is an efficiency factor and may differ somewhat between various ram pumps. For example, if a flow rate of twelve gallons per minute is available to operate a ram pump (Q), the pump is placed six feet below the water source (F), and the water will be pumped up an elevation of twenty feet to the outlet point (E), the amount of water that may be pumped with an appropriately-sized ram pump is:

The same pump with the same drive flow will provide less flow if the water is to be pumped up a higher elevation. For instance, using the data in the previous example but increasing the elevation lift to forty feet (E):

The pump inflow rate, Q, will always be determined by the drive pipe size, drive pipe length, and the elevation of the water source above the hydraulic ram.

Table 3 uses the Rife equation to list some flow rate ranges for various sizes of hydraulic ram pump based on the friction loss found in Schedule 40 PVC pipe. The pump flow ranges in the chart are based on a fall (F) of five feet of elevation and an elevation lift (E) of twenty-five feet. Changing the values of E or F will change the expected performance of the ram pump.

Some of the delivery flow rates listed in table 3 are quite small, but even the 3/4-inch ram pump will deliver a considerable amount of water over time. Hydraulic ram pumps operate twenty-four hours per day, seven days per week, so even at the minimum pump inflow the 3/4-inch ram pump will provide (0.10 gpm x 60 minutes x 24 hours =) 144 gallons of water per day, which would supply the daily water need of four to five 1,200 pound cattle.

Figure 11. A schematic diagram for homemade hydraulic ram pump Design 1. Table 4 contains item descriptions. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

There are a number of designs for a homemade hydraulic ram. The University of Warwick has some excellent designs developed for use in developing countries where standard plumbing parts may not be readily available.5

This publication will address two similar designs. The first design was developed by Mark Risse of the University of Georgia and was presented by Frank Henning in University of Georgia Extension Service publications #ENG98-0023 and #ENG98-003.6 Figure 11 provides a schematic of the design, and table 4 provides a parts list for a 1 1/4-inch hydraulic ram pump.

This is a very simple design that only requires assembly of basic plumbing fittings. The air chamber (#14–16) acts like a pressure tank for a well, using compressible air captured in the tank to buffer shock waves and provide a steady outlet pressure. The air initially captured in this air chamber, however, will be absorbed by the water flowing through the pump over time. When this happens there will be a much more pronounced shock to the pump and piping during each cycle (this condition is described as a water-logged pump), and material fatigue and failure will follow. In order to keep air in the chamber over time, a bicycle or scooter inner tube may be filled with air until it feels “springy” or “spongy,” and then folded and inserted into the pressure chamber before the cap (#16) is glued on to the pipe. This will retain air in the chamber and prevent pump failure.

Fittings 1–4 in the diagram must be the same size as the drive pipe in order for the pump to work properly. The spring-loaded check valve (#5) and the pipe nipple (#12) should also be the same size as the drive pipe, but the pump should work if they are reduced to the same size as the delivery pipe.

Figure 12. A brass swing check valve. Note the free-swinging flapper in the outlet port. The swing check valve should be placed vertically for best pump performance. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

Valve #1 in figure 11 is used to stop or allow flow to the pump and can be used to turn off water flow if the pump needs to be removed or serviced. Valve #7 is turned off while the pump is started, then gradually opened to allow water to flow after the pump is operating. The pump will operate for thirty seconds or more with this valve completely closed, and if the valve is left in the closed position the pump will reach some maximum pressure and stop operating. The ram pump requires approximately 10 psi of back pressure to operate, so if the delivery pipe outlet is not at least twenty-three feet above the ram pump, valve #7 can be used to throttle the flow and maintain the required back pressure.

The pressure gauge (#11) is used to determine when valve #7 may be opened during pump start-up and can be used to determine how much valve #7 should be closed during normal operation if throttling is needed. The pipe cock (#10) is optional but can be turned off to protect the gauge from failure over time due to repeated pulses.

The air chamber size is dictated by the expected flow rate of the hydraulic ram pump. University or Warwick documentation suggests the optimum pressure chamber volume is twenty to fifty times the expected volume of water delivery per cycle of the pump.5 Table 5 provides some minimum lengths of piping required for a pressure chamber based on this information. The table is based on a hydraulic ram that will operate sixty pulses or cycles per minute.

The second design presented in figure 13 is one commonly found on the internet in YouTube videos.7 It is very similar to the first design, but this design incorporates a homemade “snifter” valve that allows a small amount of air to be added to the air chamber with each pumping cycle, which eliminates the need for an inner tube in the air chamber.

Figure 13. A schematic diagram for homemade hydraulic ram pump Design 2 with air snifter. Tables 4 and 6 contain item descriptions. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

The size of the snifter hole is critical to pump operation. The University of Warwick has an extensive discussion concerning this property in their hydraulic ram pump documentation.5 Their information suggests drilling a 1/16-inch hole and increasing the size slightly if necessary. A 1/8-inch snifter hole or smaller with an appropriately sized cotter pin inserted may be a good option instead as a starting point. If the hydraulic ram should become waterlogged, a slightly larger snifter hole may be needed.

The advantage of this design is that if the snifter hole is sized correctly, the pump should never become waterlogged due to a leaking inner tube in the air chamber. The disadvantages are the trial-and-error approach to obtaining the correct hole size, the need for additional support for the pump’s increased vertical height, and the possibility that the snifter hole, being very small, may freeze over and close in cold weather.

Figure 14. A 3/4-inch hydraulic ram pump (Design 1) in operation. The image was taken just at waste valve closure. The concrete block is in place to support the air chamber. Image credit: W. Bryan Smith, Clemson University.

Both pump designs are started using the same steps. Attach the assembled ram pump to the drive pipe, close valve #7, then open valve #1 to allow water flow. The waste valve (#4) will almost immediately forcefully close. The flapper in the waste valve must be pushed down manually a number of times to initially start automatic pump operation. This process purges air from the system and builds up the pressure in the air chamber required for the pump to operate. Pressing the flapper down twenty to thirty times is expected to start a ram pump. If the pump does not start operating after pressing the flapper down more than seventy times, there is an issue somewhere in the system. The flapper on a smaller pump (1/2-inch, 3/4-inch, etc.) can be pressed down with a thumb fairly easily, but larger pumps may require the use of a metal rod of some type to push the flapper down, especially if there is considerable elevation drop between the water source and the hydraulic ram pump.

After the pump has started operating (figure 14), gradually open valve #7 to allow water to flow uphill to the water trough. The pump must have 10 psi or more back pressure to operate, so gradually open valve #7 while watching the gauge to maintain 10 psi of back pressure. Pressure will build as the water fills the delivery pipe as it is pumped uphill.

The pump will operate continuously after starting as long as water flows freely to the pump and is flowing out of the delivery pipe. If water flow is stopped at the water trough, the ram will pump up to some maximum pressure and stop, and then must be manually restarted. The pump will not restart itself. This means that if water is supplied to a single water trough, a float valve cannot be used. Some provision must be made to drain overflow away from the trough after it fills, since the water must flow continuously for the pump to remain in operation. A simple gravel-filled trench or another method may be used to direct the excess water away from the water trough.

Since water continuously flows out of the pump’s waste valve, some consideration must also be given to water drainage at the pump site. If the pump is placed near a stream downstream of a pool or other water source, this will not be an issue. If, however, it is placed on dry ground away from the water source, drainage must be considered.

There are no restrictions on the size or type of delivery pipe used beyond normal piping design practice. Galvanized steel pipe, PVC pipe, rubber hose, or a simple garden hose may be used to deliver water to the water trough, provided it is sized to deliver the anticipated flow rate. Some ram pump installation guidelines indicate the delivery pipe should be one half the size of the drive pipe, but this has no bearing on the pump performance. The delivery pipe should be sized based on flow rate and friction loss.

Table 7 provides some maximum recommended flow rates for various pipe sizes. These flow rates are based on a maximum flow velocity of five feet per second in the delivery pipe, which will help prevent water hammer development in the delivery pipe. Smaller flows than those listed will allow the water to be piped longer distances or to higher elevations within reason, since less pressure will be lost to pipe friction. Pipe friction loss charts for the appropriate pipe material used may be utilized to determine the actual friction loss for a given installation.8 Larger delivery pipes will reduce friction losses but will also increase costs. Smaller delivery pipes will cost less but can decrease the ram pump flow rate. If friction losses are not calculated, use half the allowable flow rates (or less) listed in table 7 to select a delivery pipe size.

Water will run continuously through a hydraulic ram pump since the pump runs constantly. If the water source for the pump is a shallow pool in a flowing stream or creek this will not be an issue, since water flows continuously in those water bodies. There may be a problem, though, if a small pond is used as a water source for a hydraulic ram pump.

For example, say that a farmer decides to use a small, 1/2-acre pond to supply a hydraulic ram. The pond history shows that it seems to stay fairly full except during times of severe drought. The farmer wants a flow rate of 1 gpm (gallons per minute) to his livestock water trough, and therefore places a 1 1/2-inch hydraulic ram pump behind the pond. The ram pump requires a flow of approximately 9 gpm to produce the desired 1 gpm flow to the water trough.

The ram pump runs twenty-four hours per day, seven days per week, withdrawing 9 gpm from the pond. This flow rate will remove (9 gpm x 60 minutes x 24 hours =) 12,960 gallons of water per day from the pond. That is the equivalent of approximately one inch of water removed from the pond each day. If the stream or spring that fed the pond was just adequate to keep the pond full before the ram pump was installed, the pond water level will begin to fall one inch each day. Over a month’s time the pond level could fall as much as thirty inches.

There are methods described in the next section that allow the use of a hydraulic ram pump using a pond as a water source without breaching the dam. The farmer, though, must first determine if the springs or streams supplying the pond will be adequate to maintain the pond’s water level before installing a ram pump. This may prevent draining a good pond to non-useable levels.

If a hydraulic ram pump is installed behind a pond dam, the farmer should also consider drainage requirements to remove the expelled drive water from behind the pond. This will prevent the development of a wet area or possible soil erosion over time.

Some type of siphon assembly may be used to draw water from a pond and deliver it over the dam to a hydraulic ram pump. However, this siphon cannot be directly connected to the drive pipe without some provision for pressure and siphon release. The siphon will interfere with the development of the pressure wave in the drive pipe. If a siphon is used, the water may be delivered by the siphon pipe to a trough or barrel open to the atmosphere behind the pond dam, with a ram drive pipe plumbed directly into the trough or barrel. This will prevent the siphon action from affecting pressure wave development.

There are only two moving parts in the home-made hydraulic ram pump – the waste valve and the spring-loaded check valve (#4 and #5 in figures 11 and 13). Over time one or both of these valves may fail simply due to wear. The wear will be more extensive in rams utilizing sandy or silty water, and in rams that have a more rapid cycle time. Farmer reports indicate that home-made hydraulic ram check valves seem to last between three months and two years depending on these two factors. The two unions in the figures 11 and 13 (#1 and #8) are there to allow pump removal for maintenance if needed.

If there is detritus in the water source and an inlet screen is not used, there may be an issue with a small stick or twig becoming caught between the waste valve flapper and the valve seal, preventing proper valve closure. In some cases, this might make it miss a cycle and then the stick may be flushed away, but in other cases the stick may become lodged. If the hydraulic ran pump is the only source of water for your livestock it should be checked daily – in most cases the farmer can simply drive near the site, roll down a window (or turn the tractor off), and listen for the regular “click” to confirm the pump is operating. The best inspection is always to visit the operating pump, but a second option is simply to visit the water trough to make sure water is flowing.

If a ram pump is used during winter months, care should be taken to insulate as much of the pump and above ground piping as possible. The constant flow of water through the pump should help prevent freezing, but ice may still build up around the waste valve outlet in colder temperatures and might stop the pump. If Design 2 is used, inspection of the snifter hole is a must in cold weather to ensure it has not frozen closed.

If a hydraulic ram pump is installed in or near a small stream bed, care should be taken to make sure the pump is anchored sufficiently to a concrete pad or other heavy, non-moveable items to prevent loss during a major storm event. Some type of shield or shelter from branches or other detritus flowing downstream during such an event should also be considered. A better placement would be to position the ram pump on dry ground near the stream, but out of the potential flood plain for average storm events, with drainage provisions for the waste or drive water to return to the stream.

There are two methods that may be used to “tune” or adjust a hydraulic ram pump to increase or decrease pump pressure and flow rate. The first tuning method is to simply change the position of the waste valve (#4 in figures 11 and 13). This valve should normally be placed vertically for best pump performance. If the grower desires to lower the pressure, the tee the valve is attached to (#2 in figures 11 and 13) may be rotated slightly to one side, which will allow the waste valve flapper to drop slightly into the valve body. The valve body should be oriented as shown in figure 12 to allow the flapper to descend into the water flow path. Rotating the valve slightly will allow the flapper to close at a slower water velocity, which will create a smaller water hammer shock wave and result in a lower pump pressure. Rotating the valve too far, as illustrated in figure 12, will cause the pump to stop operating, since the water velocity in the drive pipe will be too slow when the valve closes to create a useful water hammer shock wave.

The second tuning method can be used to increase the pressure developed by the ram pump, and in doing so increase the flow rate. The waste valve flapper (shown in figure 12) will close when a certain water velocity is reached in the pipe. The weight of the valve flapper determines the water velocity needed to close the flapper. If weight is added to the flapper, a higher water velocity will be necessary to close the flapper. The University of Warwick’s “How Ram Pumps Work” publication provides a detailed description on flapper weights and closing water velocities.9

Common methods of increasing flapper weight include using screws or epoxy to attach washers or other small weights to the flapper. Care must be exercised to attach weights so that they remain firmly attached and they do not interfere with normal valve closure. The grower must also consider how much pressure may be obtained by tuning the pump in this manner. It is possible to increase the water velocity in the pipe to where the increased water hammer shock wave may cause actual damage to the piping or the pump.

The Ram will not start: (a) In most cases this is due to the fact that the correct size check valve for the waste valve was not installed. That valve and tee must be the same size as the drive pipe. Using a PVC check valve or a metal check valve that is spring-loaded instead of a free-swinging check valve will also cause this issue; (b) Another problem could be a lack of elevation difference between the ram pump and the water source. While some commercially made ram pumps will operate with as little as twenty inches of elevation fall, these home-made units are less efficient and require approximately five feet of vertical elevation drop to operate dependably; (c) the air has not been purged from the system. Pushing the waste valve flapper down twenty to fifty times is normal to start a hydraulic ram pump; (d) a flexible hose was used for the drive pipe. The drive pipe must be made of a rigid material.

The ram pumps for a few cycles and stops: (a)This is usually due to a drive pipe that is too long or too short for the hydraulic ram pump size. A drive pipe that is too long or too short can interfere with or prevent the development of the shock wave pulse in the pipe; (b) valve #7 on the outlet side of the pump is not closed when starting the pump. This valve must be closed during start up for the pump to develop some back pressure and start operating.

We tested it with a garden hose, but it would not start. Sliding a garden hose inside the drive pipe to supply water to test the ram will partially pressurize the water in that pipe, which will interfere with the water hammer shock wave and keep the waste valve closed. The best way to test a hydraulic ram pump is to plumb the drive pipe to the bottom of an open bucket and keep the bucket filled with water from the garden hose. The bucket should be a minimum of five feet in elevation above the ram.

School of Engineering. Technical release: TR12 – DTU P90 hydraulic ram pump. Design technical unit (DTU) ram pump programme. Coventry (UK): University of Warwick. [updated 2008 July 25; accessed 2019 July]. https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/sci/eng/research/grouplist/structural/dtu/pubs/tr/lift/rptr12.

School of Engineering. Technical release: TR15 – How ram pumps work. Coventry (UK): University of Warwick. [updated 2008 July 25; accessed 2019 July]. https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/sci/eng/research/grouplist/structural/dtu/pubs/tr/lift/rptr15.

Typically, well pumps can be broken down into two categories: jet pumps and submersible pumps. Each design is built to fit the needs of various well sizes and conditions.

Most shallow well pumps are found in wells that are less than 25 feet deep and in areas with a high water table. These pumps have few running parts and require little maintenance.

This type of pump is located above the ground, typically just inside the well house, and generates high pressure to pull the water from the well and into the home using an inlet pipe. A tank or well booster pump is recommended to accompany this type of well pump to increase water pressure to the home.

Unlike its shallow counterpart, a deep well jet pump is located within the well, though its motor stays in the well house. This pump uses two pipes: one for drawing water out of the well and another for directing the water to the home. Deep well jet pumps are typically used in wells that are 110 feet deep.

A deep well submersible pump sits at the bottom of the well directly in the water. Using its motor, the pump draws water from the bottom and pushes it out of the well into your home’s water lines. These pumps can be used in wells up to 300 feet deep. The pumps work similar to sump pumps, which draw water and pump it out.

Although professional well pump replacement comes with high pump installation costs, you may have no choice but to call a professional depending on the well pump you have. Certain pumps, like deep well submersible pumps, require special equipment to get them out without damaging components or wiring. In addition to the fragility of the well’s components, removing a well pump can be very labor intensive, with some pumps weighing more than 100 pounds.

Even if you’re considering replacing your well pump on your own, call a plumber to confirm that the well pump is the issue with your system before removing it. This will prevent any unneeded work or unintentional damage to your well system.

Use the tool below to find a well service contractor who can diagnose your well pump problem and help you determine whether or not you can replace it yourself:

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We sell our commercial and residential pumps via an extensive distributor network. If you’re a contractor, you can purchase our products at well-known national industrial supply outlets like W.W. Grainger, Ferguson, and WinSupply. To find a distribution partner near you, visit our Distributor Search page and fill in your zip code. You can also check out the companies’ websites for additional information.

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If you need to move water away from your home’s foundation and prevent it from seeping into the basement, you need a sump pump. A sump pump is installed at the lowest point in the basement in a sump hole or pit. Any water that makes its way into the house will flow to this lowest point. The sump pump will then activate and draw moisture away from the foundation. Sump pumps are essential to prevent flooding and water damage in your home.

According to HomeAdvisor, sump pump costs range from $641 to $2,035, with the national average at $1,296. A pedestal pump costs approximately $60 to $170, while a submersible pump costs between $100 and $400. Labor can run between $45 and $200 per hour for installation. Remember that submersible pumps take longer to install than pedestal pumps and will cost more in labor. The initial installation will involve digging, electrical upgrades, and plumbing costs. Sump pump replacement is less expensive than installing one for the first time.

Several factors affect overall sump pump cost. Prices can differ from the national average due to flooring type, pump location and accessibility, geographic location, type of sump pump, labor costs, permit fees, pump size and quality, and the drainage system.

If the basement has a dirt floor, digging the sump pump pit will be easier and faster than digging through a concrete floor. Digging through a dirt floor costs between $300 and $500, or $5 to $10 per linear foot, depending on how deep the drainage pipes need to go. Sump pump installation in a concrete floor averages between $2,500 and $5,000 since jackhammers and other specialized equipment are required to break through the surface.

Installing a sump pump in a hard-to-reach area like a crawl space will significantly add to the project’s cost by several hundred dollars. If the plumbing in that area is complex and densely packed, it will increase the price.

Sump pump cost will vary because of geographic location and the cost of labor in different regions. Large, urban areas have higher labor costs than more rural areas. Permit fees and the cost of materials also depend on where you live. To get the price that’s right for you, get multiple quotes from reputable professionals in your area.

There are two types of sump pumps, pedestal and submersible, but they both work in the same way. Inside the pump, there is a float that will lift as the water level rises. When the water gets to a certain level, the pump will activate to draw it in and pump it out of the drain. These sump pumps can be powered by battery, water, or both. The battery- and combination-operated sump pumps cost approximately twice as much as the water-powered pumps.

Sump pumps can be made of plastic or metal. Plastic sump pumps resist corrosion, but they don’t handle high pressure very well. Metal pumps are more vulnerable to corrosion, but they’re stronger than plastic units. Metal sump pumps are typically double the price of plastic ones.

Labor costs typically run between $45 and $200 per hour for installation. Replacements usually take around an hour, while a new installation can take between 2 and 4 hours. Sump pump installation requires electrical and plumbing work, and some cities may require a permit for this type of project. Check the local laws to be sure if you need a permit. The average rate for a permit is between $50 and $200.

The size of the sump pump you need for your home is not based on the basement’s square footage but on the amount of water it needs to remove. Basements prone to flooding will need a stronger sump pump, regardless of basement size. The more water the sump pump needs to remove, the more horsepower you need. Here are the three common sizes of sump pumps.1/4 horsepower. This is not a strong sump pump, but it will work if you don’t have a very wet basement and are on a tight budget. Sump pumps with .25 horsepower cost between $60 and $170.

1/2 horsepower. This is the most powerful type of sump pump for homes. A .5 horsepower pump will remove 3,000 gallons of water per hour. If you have a very wet basement, this type of sump pump will work for you. They usually run between $90 and $340.

Updating the drainage system or digging a new one can cost $4,000 to $12,000. The drainage system calls for removing a 24-inch area of dirt and concrete from the inside perimeter of the basement. Gravel, drain tiles, and a basin are added before replacing the concrete. If you have a powerful sump pump that needs to remove large amounts of water, the drain pipes will need to be wider to accommodate the amount of water.

When budgeting for sump pump costs, there are additional price factors and considerations. These can include sump basin quality, flood insurance, maintenance, repairs, battery backup, reserve pumps, and filters.

The sump pump basin should be made of heavy-duty plastic and look like a trash can. It should be strong and not flex or collapse. The basin is installed below the floor, and the sump pump goes inside. The sump pump will activate and push the water out via the drainage pipes as the basin fills with water. A 17-inch basin costs around $23, and a 30-inch one runs about $30. A tall basin costs approximately $60.

Even with an actively working sump pump, there is always a risk of flooding. For peace of mind, consider taking out a flood insurance policy for approximately $775 per year. Most flood insurance policies will include building and contents coverage.

Sump pump maintenance can cost up to $250 a year to get the pump checked and ensure it’s running correctly. Sump pumps should be inspected to check for debris that may clog the pump. One way to avoid clogs is to purchase an airtight cover for the sump pump. If the pump isn’t turning on as it should, a professional may need to be called to remove any obstructions. If you notice that there is no water in the basin or if the sump pump is making strange thumping, rattling, or gurgling noises, call a plumber. A sump pump should cycle on and off during wet periods. If the pump is constantly running and not cycling off, call a plumber to see if the pump needs to be replaced or repaired.

The average cost of sump pump repair is between $200 and $500. A plumber or sump pump pro can repair the check valve, float switch, discharge pipe, pump motor, or lifting handle. Weigh your options and determine whether purchasing a new sump pump would be worth it in the long run instead of paying for repairs over time.

A battery backup sump pump will ensure that a pump keeps working, even if the power goes out. Sump pumps with battery backups cost $1,220 to install in a basement, yard, or crawl space. Models that run on water pressure with a battery backup can cost a few hundred dollars more.

If you live in a wet area at risk of heavy flooding, consider having multiple sump pumps in your basement. If one pump is not enough to remove all the water it needs to, having pumps in reserve to help can make all the difference in keeping your home dry.

A filter can extend the life of a sump pump by filtering out sediment and other particulates. A sump pump filter can also keep clogs and debris at bay. These filters cost an average of $60.

The base of a pedestal sump pump is submerged, and the rest of the pump is above the basin. Pedestal sump pumps have a 1/3 to 1/2 horsepower motor. These pumps can remove up to 35 gallons of water per minute. The motor is on top of a pedestal, and a hose goes down into the basin. The hose will draw the water up and out of the hole and out through the drain. Pedestal sump pumps are easy to access and service since they sit outside the basin, but it means they’re loud when they’re running. Pedestal pumps can cost from $60 to $170, and the average lifespan is approximately 20 to 25 years.

A submersible sump pump sits entirely underwater in the basin. This type of sump pump can have up to a 3/4 horsepower motor and drain up to 60 gallons of water per minute. Since the water muffles the sound of the motor while it’s working, a submersible unit is quieter than a pedestal pump. They are more challenging to access and service since they will need to be removed from the water. These sump pumps can cost between $100 and $400, and the average lifespan is around 5 to 15 years. Some higher-quality pumps can last from 10 to 30 years.

A water-powered sump pump only needs water to work. Flowing water through the pipe creates suction that will drain the water out of the basement. The water flow commonly comes from the city’s water system. Some areas of the country are banning and eliminating water-powered sump pumps due to the amount of water waste. These types of pumps usually need to be inspected yearly by a licensed inspector. The average price of a water-powered sump pump is $100 to $390.

A battery-powered sump pump operates on a marine-type, deep-cycle battery. These sump pumps can remove more water than a water-powered unit, and a smart app can monitor it. These efficient pumps can run from $120 to $300.

There are a few red flags that will alert you if a sump pump needs to be replaced. If the basement is flooded, that is an obvious sign that the sump pump is not working correctly. If it’s making strange noises, is not working at all, or if the pump isn’t working while all the other electrical outlets in the house are, there may be an electrical issue inside the pump.

By their nature, sump pumps make noise when they work. Any unusual sounds or noises can be a clue that something is wrong. Water cannot be removed from the basement if the impeller is bent, and flooding will soon be a genuine concern. If you hear strange gurgling, thumping, or rattling coming from the pump, it may need to be replaced.

If the sump pump isn’t working and the float switch has been checked, it may need to be replaced. It may be cheaper to replace the broken pump than keep paying to get it repaired.

If the sump pump is on but doesn’t pump water, there could be an electrical issue inside the pump. If a working sump pump uses excessive energy, it may be more cost-effective to replace it with an energy-efficient model.

A sump pump prevents basement flooding and damage to a home. In the end, the cost of the pump and installation is worth the benefits of installing a sump pump.

A sump pump will impede flooding by directing water away from the basement and foundation. This will prevent water damage to your home and belongings. By draining the water away from your home, the sump pump can also put a stop to pooling water and excess moisture.

Mold and mildew grow when an area is damp. Mold and mildew can cause structural damage to a home and severe health issues to those with allergies, asthma, or other respiratory illnesses. Sump pumps remove the problem of standing water and excess moisture where mold and mildew thrive.

Damp basements make a good home for insects and rodents—especially destructive pests like termites, who can be especially attracted to moist wood. A sump pump helps keep a basement dry and can help eliminate the risk of insects and pests making themselves at home and threatening your comfort, health, and safety.

When water builds up around a home’s foundation, it can cause stress and cracks in the foundation. Since a sump pump removes and drains water away from the foundation, it aids in eliminating the dangerous pressure around the basement walls. This can result in fewer foundation cracks, and you’ll spend less on foundation repairs.

Excess humidity can cause musty odors, growth of mold and mildew, and damage to the interior of the basement and appliances. By installing a dehumidifier and draining it to the sump pump basin, the sump pump can eliminate water in the basement that leads to excessive humidity levels.

Standing water can cause electrical issues, wire damage, and damage to electronics. Standing water can even cause an electrical fire. A sump pump can help keep your electronics and your home safe by eliminating standing water and moisture issues.

Sump pumps in a basement are a positive addition to a home. It signifies the homeowner has taken an active role in eliminating any potential water problems in the basement. Potential home buyers may see a sump pump as a worthwhile addition if the house is in an at-risk area for flooding.

Installing a sump pump is a dirty job. If you have the knowledge, experience, and the tools to install one, you’ll need to pick the right spot in the basement for installation, have access to or install a ground fault interrupter (GFI) outlet, excavate a hole that is at least 10 inches wider and 6 inches deeper than the sump pump, attach the adapters, install the pump check valve to divert the backflow of water into the home’s water system, and install drainage pipes to direct the water at least 4 feet away from the house. Working with electricity and water can be a dangerous combination, and many homeowners will opt to hire a professional to complete the installation. If a DIYer doesn’t install the sump pump properly or makes an electrical or plumbing mistake, the repairs could be costly. The price of hiring a sump pump contractor may be worth the extra money for peace of mind.

Asking a professional the right questions about sump pump costs can minimize miscommunication, save money, and get the desired results. Here are some questions to ask a sump pump professional.What is your service area?

Deciding on sump pump installation while staying within your budget can be a daunting process. Here are some frequently asked questions about sump pump costs to help guide you in your decisions.

You can, as long as you have extensive plumbing and electrical knowledge. Specific tools, skills, and knowledge are required to get the job done right. Many homeowners prefer to hire a sump pump contractor for installation to know that the pump will be installed correctly and, and a pro will offer a warranty—and peace of mind.

In most cases, a homeowners insurance policy does not cover sump pump replacement. You can add a rider to the insurance policy to cover damage to your home, belongings, and the cleanup if the sump pump fails. The additional rider does not cover repair or replacement of a sump pump.

In order to be successful at off-grid living there must be a dependable source of water and the ability to top move that water. A water pump will make moving the life-sustaining water from point A to point B a much easier and quicker. And to stay true to sustainable living, building a DIY water pump (especially from recycled materials) is the way to go.

Even if you don’t live off-grid, a water pump is something that can make life easier on the homestead by helping you move water where it’s needed without carrying a bucket at a time.

Having finished reading this article you may also like to come back and read my other interesting and relevant articles such as: diy water fountain, diy rain barrel, homemade water filters, diy drip irrigation, and diy solar water heaters.

If the power goes out, do you have access to fresh water? Not if your well has an electric pump, you will have to wait until power is restored before enjoying the benefits of running water again.

This DIY water pump design uses centrifugal force to pump water where it needs to go. Ideal for a cabin in the woods or off grid homestead, this design can pump enough fresh water to satisfy the needs of a family home.

Best used for relatively clean water, since any mud or debris would clog up the rotating components and stop the flow of water. It’s a simple and functional design that is easy to build with these detailed plans.

Simple components, like PVC pipe, a few couplings and a 12 volt battery are used to create this homemade water pump. The components are inexpensive to purchase and you may have some of them on hand.

Ideal for use in a small home water feature or small aquarium. Popular homemade fairy gardens could be made even more attractive with the addition of a small water feature using this mini water pump idea.

Nostalgic hand water pumps add a touch of sentiment to an outdoor garden. They remind us of a by-gone era when times were simpler and life seemed to go by much more slowly.

But we do like the look of the hand pump, and these free plan will show you how to build a nostalgic hand water pump that will actually deliver water.

This YouTube video provides detailed instructions for building your own PVC pipe waterpump. It’s a simple design, yet highly effective and efficient for pumping water wherever it’s needed.

The windmill is attractive and the sound of running water is soothing, making this DIY water pump a great investment of time since you will be getting two desirable features for one investment.

Use the law of physics to create a DIY water pump that is powered by gravity. No electricity or other power source needed to pump water. A great design for pumping water to an off grid homestead of hunting cabin in the woods.

This powerful hand water pump is capable of moving water or air, depending on your need. This easy-to-follow video instructional will walk you through each building step for this PVC pipe

Detailed YouTube video instructions show you how to create this DIY water pump using water to power it. A small battery will also be needed to help pump water, but the turbine and battery power produce a lot of water movement.

Great for removing water from a flooded basement, off grid living or for pumping water to a vegetable garden or livestock. This homemade pump can pump a lot of water through it in a short amount of time. This is the a good design for any job that requires pumping a lot of water