mud pump casting parts free sample
Mud-Pump Gear Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Adjust or replace these bearings at first sign of wear. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted at first signs of looseness.. You will note on series 3400, 3800, 3500, and 3900 pumps, that the shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting, although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings, and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on the bolts.
To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump, so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. Oil clearance should be checked with Plastigage (available in most parts stores). Wipe crankshaft journal clean of any oil, place a strip of Plastigage on the crankshaft journal and tighten rod cap to the proper torque value. Once tightened, remove rod cap and measure oil clearance with scale on Plastigage package. See oil clearance chart. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Rotate the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another 0.005" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted.
Torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper value. Again rotate the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should be ready for operation.
If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, care must-be taken: not to over-tighten the bearings, since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump. When bearings are adjusted by this method, watch carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.
It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly.
Inspect connecting rod bearings and adjust as necessary every six months or when crankcase lubricant is changed. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted to compensate for wear. You will note that shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on them.
To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is a little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Turn the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another .005"" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted, torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper amount. Again turn the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should then be ready for operation.
If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, the bearings may be completely adjusted by shaking the bearing on the shaft as stated above. Care must be taken not to over-tighten the bearings since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump by hand. When bearings are adjusted by this method, they must be watched carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.
Alternatively, plastic gauge strips, found in most parts stores may be used to adjust these bearings. It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. with experience, an operator can tell by feel when the bearings are properly adjusted. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly. All wrenches used in adjusting these bearings are standard wrenches.
A wide variety of oil drilling mud pump parts options are available to you, such as 1 year, not available and 2 years.You can also choose from new, oil drilling mud pump parts,as well as from energy & mining, construction works , and machinery repair shops oil drilling mud pump parts, and whether oil drilling mud pump parts is 1.5 years, 6 months, or unavailable.
The Liberty Process LL8 Progressive Cavity Pump is ideal for abrasive pumping applications such as drilling fluids with sand and grit common in fracking operations. As a Mud Pump, the LL8 Series is a popular model on many mobile pumping rigs in use today. Replacement mud pump parts are available as well from our stock and work on other popular manufacturers models.
LL8 parts are direct drop in aftermarket replacements that work with the *Moyno® L8 series, the *Tarby® TL8 series and *Continental® CL8 Series*. The Liberty unit is a low-cost, maintenance free, dependable drop-in replacement progressive cavity unit.
The Liberty LL8 is a standard flanged pump design manufactured with cast iron or 316 stainless steel pump casings designed in 1, 2, and 3 stages for 75, 150 and 225 psi discharge pressures and a flow rate of 18 up to 100 GPM.
The LL8 is a modular design with simple hardened pinned joint drive assembly. LL8 Rotors are typically hardened tool steel or 316 stainless steel with a hard chrome plating for long life in abrasive pumping applications.
All other wetted parts are either carbon steel or 316 stainless steel. Stators are available in many elastomer materials such as Buna Nitrile, Natural Rubber, EPDM and Viton. The standard seal design is a set of gland packing with a lantern ring set and flush connections. Mechanical seal options for this progressive cavity pump are readily available.
The LL8 represents one of the most popular progressive cavity pumps available for the transport of drilling mud with easily replaceable in-stock parts.
FET manufactures a full range of valves and seats for every drilling and well-servicing application as part of our full line of Osprey® mud pump system solutions. All of our valves and seats can be used in water, water base, oil base and synthetic base mud applications. FET offers additional valves and seats not listed below, including drilling valves, frac valves and well service valves. FET’s QC standards for the dimensional and material specs are extremely rigid in comparison to other manufacturers. Contact your FET representative to learn more.
For drilling companies with the need to pump slurries with bentonite, concrete, and other thick mud, Elepump triplex, high pressure piston mud pumps are the ideal choice for long life and minimal maintenance.
Featuring superior construction and high quality materials, Elepump mud pumps are built to last. They require minimal maintenance, so your costs stay low so and your drilling operations stay profitable.
The KT-45 mud pump is the most compact of the whole range of Elepump pressure pumps. This small capacity pump is still mighty enough to pack a big punch, with enough flow for drilling up to HQ sizes. It is very light and very maneuverable, making it a great choice for geotechnical drilling, fly jobs or heliportable jobs. Elepump mud pumps can be configured for diesel, gas, electric and air power.
The KF-50M is the pump to choose if you want a pump you can count on to keep pumping without missing a beat. This powerful pump is a standard size and can handle all slurries including bentonite, concrete and more. With its stainless steel ball and seat style valves, it is the ideal choice for pumping grit, cement, chunks of rock and other hard material, without the worry of damage to fragile parts. Elepump mud pumps can be configured for diesel, gas, electric and air power.
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