drill your own water well with mud pump quotation

Explore the various water well drills with mud pump products available for wholesale at Alibaba.com. Get a water well drills with mud pump for drilling water wells, water exploration holes, geological exploration, coal mines, and other kinds of mining. Some water well drills with mud pump options use caterpillar tread to move. Others use rubber tires, while others require a separate means of transport. Caterpillar tread propulsion can climb up to 25 degrees inclination. Some products in the range are capable of drilling over 200 meters, while others are only used for open-pit mining with depths of around 3 meters. Drilling can be done vertically downwards, horizontally, or in a slanting direction. Drilling speed depends on the power of the machine and the general hardness of the surface. The hole diameter can vary from 90mm to 200mm.

water well drills with mud pump options also include an air compressor, a mud pump, drilling rods of various sizes, connectors, and a drilling tower. Drilling is done using drill bits of various shapes, sizes, and compositions. You can choose between diamond bits, alloy ring-shaped bits, 3-wing alloy bits, PDC bits, and hammer bits. Each drill bit uses different drilling methods, including rotary, percussion, blast hole, and core drilling.

Smaller products have a lifting power of around 25 kilonewtons and weigh about 2,500kgs. They’re ideal for small-scale drillings such as farms and homes. Larger ones are faster with more power, making them ideal for commercial use. Browse through Alibaba.com and find a water well drills with mud pump that’s ideal for your work scope. Buy mine drilling rigs for your wholesale business at competitive prices. Chinese wholesalers provide you with customization options and great after-sales services.

Whether you live in a rural area or simply prefer getting your water from a private source, installing a well on your property has numerous benefits. You won’t have to pay a monthly water bill, and you’ll have some control over your water’s mineral and chemical contents. However, drilling deep enough to access clean water can be expensive, and you’ll need to store and purify the water once it gets to the surface.

On average, drilling a water well costs$3,500–$15,000, depending on several geological and technological factors. You may be able to dig a shallow well yourself, but it’s best to hire a professional contractor for a well that will provide water for an entire home. This guide outlines the well installation process and its costs.

Though $3,500 to $15,000 is a wide range, it’s hard to narrow it down without knowing the specifics of your property. The cost of your project depends on the following factors.

The deeper you need to dig, drill, or drive, the longer the job will take and the more labor it will require. Most residential wells need to be at least 50 feet deep and have an average depth of 300 feet, but how far you need to drill to hit water depends on geographic factors. Accessing state and local geological surveys and learning about existing wells in your area will give you a better idea of the depth you’ll need. The table below includes price ranges for various depths.

Shallow, residential water wells are the least expensive to dig or drill. Sand point wells, which are shallow and can be driven by hand or machine, are similarly inexpensive but don’t usually provide a home’s entire water needs. Geothermal wells are relatively inexpensive on their own, but installing one costs tens of thousands of dollars.

Artesian wells that drill into an aquifer are more costly to drill but less expensive to run. Irrigation wells are the most expensive because they handle the highest volume of water, though residential irrigation is much less pricey than commercial irrigation.

Digging is the least expensive way to create a well, but it’s limited to about 100 feet in depth. Digging can also be thwarted by highly compacted or rocky soil. You can create a shallow well of up to 50 feet by driving a small-diameter pipe into the ground and removing the soil from inside. However, most residential-scale well projects require a drill to excavate.

Modern well systems consist of much more than a hole in the ground and a bucket on a rope. Here are some mechanical components that go into a working water well.

Well-casing pipe supports and protects the well’s walls, so it needs to be sturdy. This pipe is typically made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), the most affordable option ($6–$10 per linear foot). Galvanized or stainless steel casing is also available for a premium ($30–$130 per foot). Steel may be necessary for earthquake-prone areas, as it’s much less susceptible to cracking and breaking. Casing pipe costs $630–$2,400 depending on its length.

Most wells need electrical wiring to operate the pump and pressure switch. These components aren’t expensive ($50–$150), but a licensed electrician needs to install them, costing $150–$500.

Some people assume that well water is cleaner than municipal water, but municipal water goes through a strict treatment process that water from private wells doesn’t. If you’re using a well for drinking water or other residential applications, you’ll need a purification system to rid the water of contaminants before you can use it. Whole-home water treatment systems cost $500–$3,000, plus another $200–$400 for installation.

Once the water is brought to the surface and purified, it needs to be stored and pressurized so you can use it in your home. A 2-gallon water tank can cost as little as $100, but if you’re going to use well water for most of your needs, you’ll probably need a large pressure tank that costs between $1,400 and $2,400.

One of the most critical parts of the well system is thewater pump, which brings groundwater to the surface. A hand pump for a shallow well can cost as little as $150–$500, but most electronic pumps cost between $300 and $2,000, depending on how powerful they are. A shallow well can sometimes use an aboveground surface pump, but a deep well usually requires a powerful, more expensive submersible pump that sits below the water line and pushes the water up. Some artesian wells can get away without using a pump system since the groundwater is already under pressure and may be pushed to the surface naturally.

Your location determines your climate, water table depth, and type and condition of the bedrock. It will also affect labor costs. For example, Florida is a relatively inexpensive place to dig a well because it has a high water table and an average cost of living. The price is higher in desert states like California, Texas, and Arizona.

You’ll need to check with your state and local government about permits for any project that involves digging in the ground. Permits can cost anywhere from $5 to $500 depending on where you live, but a well drilling company can help you determine which ones you need.

The farther a well is located from your house, the more expensive materials and labor will be. You’ll require longer pipes and electric lines, usually at an additional cost of $50–$150 per linear foot.

Drilling an existing well deeper is less expensive than installing an entirely new well. Redrill fees are usually $300–$600, and a professional can typically complete the job in a day.

Dry and rocky soil conditions, as well as dense bedrock or heavy clay, can make well drilling more difficult and thus more expensive. You may require heavy or specialized machinery, which can add up to 150% of the base price to your total.

Before drinking water from your well, you’ll want to test its quality to make sure it’s safe. Do-it-yourself (DIY) water testing kitsare available for $50–$150, but if this is going to be your home’s primary water supply, you should hire a pro. This can cost between $100 and $500, but it’s well worth checking for the presence of viruses, bacteria, fungi, heavy metals, radon, pesticides, and other contaminants.

If you’re installing a well to live off the grid, you’ll also need a way of dealing with wastewater that doesn’t involve hooking up to the municipal water system. Many professional well drillers can install a well and septic system at the same time, which will save you money on labor. Aseptic tank installationcosts $2,000–$7,000 on its own or $5,000–$22,000 when combined with a well system.

One benefit of installing your own well is that you’ll no longer need to pay municipal water bills. You’ll only need to pay for the electricity to operate the pump (about $3–$4 per month), plus maintenance costs of $100–$250 per year. Compared to a monthly utility bill of $20–$40, you can save up to $500 a year.

It’s possible to install a well yourself, but it’s more complicated than digging or drilling a hole in the ground. Here’s what you can expect from the process, whether you do it yourself or hire a professional.

Well installation professionals have the tools and experience to drill plus install the casing, pump, well cap, and other hardware. They also know how to adjust the process if they encounter anything unexpected under the soil and can help you apply for permits. You’ll pay at least $1,500 in labor costs on top of the well equipment and may pay $10,000 or more for deep wells in poor soil conditions.

Digging or driving a shallow well in an area with a high water table is within the capability of dedicated DIYers. However, you must ensure you go deep enough to get to truly clean water beneath the contaminated runoff in the upper layers of soil. These shallow, driven wells also provide a limited water supply. You can rent a drill rig for $600–$800 per day for larger, deeper wells, but this will only give you the borehole; you’ll also have to install all the hardware yourself.

Wells require maintenance and occasionally require repair. Here are signs that you may need a professional well company to do an assessment. You may only have to pay a service fee if yourhome warranty covers well pumpsor well systems.

Drilled or dug wells can last as long as the walls hold up, but the equipment that runs them usually needs to be replaced every 20–30 years. The pump may fail, or the casing pipe may develop leaks. Replacements can cost up to $10,000 in materials and labor. You can extend your equipment’s lifespan by performing regular checks and maintenance or by hiring a well company to do these for you.

It’s also possible for a well to run dry. This isn’t likely or always permanent since aquifers and other sources may need time to fill back up. A well may fill with sediment over time, which will need to be pumped and cleaned out. In rare cases, you may need to dig deeper or find a different fracture to regain water flow.

It’s widely claimed that having a functional well will raise your property value, but there’s no data on how much of a return on investment (ROI) you can expect. The consensus is that a well that yields drinking water will add more value than an irrigation well, but a nonfunctional or contaminated well will be a liability. Wells are generally more valuable in rural areas or where people want to live off the grid.

Research your yard’s soil and the depth you’ll need to drill before purchasing a DIY well drilling kit. Just because the kit can go 100 feet into the ground doesn’t mean you’ll hit clean water.

It’s important to acknowledge that many DIY well drilling kits are sold within the “doomsday prepper” market. These kits are unlikely to be sufficient if you intend to use your well to fulfill most or all of your residential water needs. You’re better off at least consulting with local professionals who will know about your area’s geological features and water levels before starting the project. These professionals can help you make informed decisions about well installation.

A properly installed well can save you money on your utility bills and provide a private, unmetered water source. Make sure to budget for the drilling of the actual borehole and the equipment needed to pump and store the water, as well as water testing and purification if you intend to drink it. Your system should last for many years once it’s set up.

It can be worth it to install a well, depending on your needs and budget. Drilling a private well is a large investment, but if you live in a rural area or an area with poor water quality, it could increase your property value. Consult with local professionals before beginning to drill or dig.

The average well installation cost is $3,500–$15,000, including drilling and the casing, pump, and storage tank. Price can also depend on the depth of the borehole, ranging between $25 and $65 per foot.

The cost to hook a well up to a home’s plumbing system depends on the machinery used to pump and carry the water. Piping and electrical lines cost $50–$150 per foot, a purification system costs $300–$5,000, and a pressurized storage tank costs $1,400–$2,400.

The time it takes to install a well depends on its depth and the conditions of the soil and bedrock, but drilling can usually be completed in a day or two. Installing the pump system takes another day. After that, it depends on how long and extensive the pipes and electrical system need to be. The whole process should take about a week.

TheZX-1000 is a 16 HP Gravity Type (drilling pressure applied by the weight of the power head) portable drilling rig with many built-in standard features. It comes standard with 125" of 1-1/4" Drill Stem with wide thread machined tool joints, 2 Carbide Drill Bits (your choice of sizes), Adjustable Slip Assembly, High Capacity Water Swivel(The Key Feature, Our Own Proven Design), 12 Volt Electric Winch with Remote Control, 2X2 Mud / Trash Pump. It includes a choice of engine configurations, Import or Kohler Electric Start, and more. Please call for detailed spec sheet.

The PTO Rig is among our strongest drilling rigs, it is Fully Hydraulic, Chain Drive, 3 Point Hitch, it includes 200" of 1-1/4" Drill Stem with wide thread machined tool joints, 2 Carbide Drill Bits (your choice of sizes), Adjustable Slip Assembly (Our Own Proven Design), PTO Pump, Mud Pump, Built-In Hydraulic Resevoir, High Capacity Water Swivel(Our Own Proven Design). Please call for detailed Spec Sheet.

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from http:www.drillyourownwell.com George of Fayetteville NC sent us this video which demonstrates the phenomenal success his crew had in drilling a well with a mud pump! From the Drill Your Own Well series

Greetings Tim & Charlott, below is a GPS link and information on the well we just installed in the honor of Tim & Charlott King! Your love and commitment has allowed our Clean Water 4 Life ministry to sink over 500 water wells for those in need here in the Solomon Islands! Here is a link to read my current newsletter with lots of pictures! http://www.rickrupp.com/newsletter.php

Togokoba SSEC Church & Community is approx 58 kilometers east of Honiara. It was a long bumpy drive to this village. I had to walk a long way to get to the place where they lived. They explained that their source of drinking water was the stream. They were so happy when I explained that our CW4L team was going to come sink a well right in their village. I tasted the well water several weeks later after our team had blessed them with a water well. It tasted so good! It was nice clean & cold water! It never ceases to amaze me that there is such a nice water table here in the rural areas of the Guadnacanal plains! I counted 10 houses in this community and the population is approx 80 people. Now they finally have a source of clean drinking water! These people have suffered for many years either drinking from an open hand dug well or from the stream. Togokoba SSEC Church & Community is very grateful to our CW4L sponsors.

There are many different ways to drill a domestic water well. One is what we call the “mud rotary” method. Whether or not this is the desired and/or best method for drilling your well is something more fully explained in this brief summary.

One advantage of drilling with compressed air is that it can tell you when you have encountered groundwater and gives you an indication how much water the borehole is producing. When drilling with water using the mud rotary method, the driller must rely on his interpretation of the borehole cuttings and any changes he can observe in the recirculating fluid. Mud rotary drillers can also use borehole geophysical tools to interpret which zones might be productive enough for your water well.

The mud rotary well drilling method is considered a closed-loop system. That is, the mud is cleaned of its cuttings and then is recirculated back down the borehole. Referring to this drilling method as “mud” is a misnomer, but it is one that has stuck with the industry for many years and most people understand what the term actually means.

The water is carefully mixed with a product that should not be called mud because it is a highly refined and formulated clay product—bentonite. It is added, mixed, and carefully monitored throughout the well drilling process.

The purpose of using a bentonite additive to the water is to form a thin film on the walls of the borehole to seal it and prevent water losses while drilling. This film also helps support the borehole wall from sluffing or caving in because of the hydraulic pressure of the bentonite mixture pressing against it. The objective of the fluid mixture is to carry cuttings from the bottom of the borehole up to the surface, where they drop out or are filtered out of the fluid, so it can be pumped back down the borehole again.

When using the mud rotary method, the driller must have a sump, a tank, or a small pond to hold a few thousand gallons of recirculating fluid. If they can’t dig sumps or small ponds, they must have a mud processing piece of equipment that mechanically screens and removes the sands and gravels from the mixture. This device is called a “shale shaker.”

The fluid mixture must have a gel strength sufficient to support marble-size gravels and sand to the surface when the fluid is moving. Once the cuttings have been carried to the surface and the velocity of the fluid allowed to slow down, the fluid is designed to allow the sand and gravel to drop out.

The driller does not want to pump fine sand through the pump and back down the borehole. To avoid that, the shale shaker uses vibrating screens of various sizes and desanding cones to drop the sand out of the fluid as it flows through the shaker—so that the fluid can be used again.

When the borehole has reached the desired depth and there is evidence that the formation it has penetrated will yield enough water, then it’s time to make the borehole into a well.

Before the well casing and screens are lowered into the borehole, the recirculating fluid is slowly thinned out by adding fresh water as the fluid no longer needs to support sand and gravel. The driller will typically circulate the drilling from the bottom up the borehole while adding clear water to thin down the viscosity or thickness of the fluid. Once the fluid is sufficiently thinned, the casing and screens are installed and the annular space is gravel packed.

Gravel pack installed between the borehole walls and the outside of the well casing acts like a filter to keep sand out and maintain the borehole walls over time. During gravel packing of the well, the thin layer of bentonite clay that kept the borehole wall from leaking drilling fluid water out of the recirculating system now keeps the formation water from entering the well.

This is where well development is performed to remove the thin bentonite layer or “wall cake” that was left behind. Various methods are used to remove the wall cake and develop the well to its maximum productivity.

Some drillers use compressed air to blow off the well, starting at the first screened interval and slowly working their way to the bottom—blowing off all the water standing above the drill pipe and allowing it to recover, and repeating this until the water blown from the well is free of sand and relatively clean. If after repeated cycles of airlift pumping and recovery the driller cannot find any sand in the water, it is time to install a well development pump.

Additional development of the well can be done with a development pump that may be of a higher capacity than what the final installation pump will be. Just as with cycles of airlift pumping of the well, the development pump will be cycled at different flow rates until the maximum capacity of the well can be determined. If the development pump can be operated briefly at a flow rate 50% greater than the permanent pump, the well should not pump sand.

Mud rotary well drillers for decades have found ways to make this particular system work to drill and construct domestic water wells. In some areas, it’s the ideal method to use because of the geologic formations there, while other areas of the country favor air rotary methods.

Some drilling rigs are equipped to drill using either method, so the contractor must make the decision as to which method works best in your area, for your well, and at your point in time.

To learn more about the difference between mud rotary drilling and air rotary drilling, click the video below. The video is part of our “NGWA: Industry Connected” YouTube series:

Gary Hix is a Registered Professional Geologist in Arizona, specializing in hydrogeology. He was the 2019 William A. McEllhiney Distinguished Lecturer for The Groundwater Foundation. He is a former licensed water well drilling contractor and remains actively involved in the National Ground Water Association and Arizona Water Well Association.

To learn more about Gary’s work, go to In2Wells.com. His eBooks, “Domestic Water Wells in Arizona: A Guide for Realtors and Mortgage Lenders” and “Shared Water Wells in Arizona,” are available on Amazon.

We have a huge air compressor on the rig that blows air down the drill stem. The air comes back up the hole with enough force to move all cuttings up and out of the hole. If the well is producing water, the water will come too. Most of the time, we are actually pumping water into the air stream already, and we are really looking for an increase in the water. If we think we have hit water, we can turn off our water injection pump and check the flow of water with the air compressor alone.

There is no definite answer to this question. We are estimating the flow based on what we see flowing from the well. Sometimes, the air pressure in the well can “hold back” on the flow, causing us to underestimate the production capacity. To overcome this, we can release the air pressure for a few minutes, and then reapply it after the well has built up a large volume. We then would see the volume of water that the well produced after several minutes. Then with simple math, we can calculate the production capacity. But it is also important to understand that the well production can also vary over time. So the well may produce more or less water in the future than it does today.

We are not only looking for water. We are mainly looking for the rock that produces water. The depth of each layer of rock depends greatly on the location and elevation of the drill site. The formations are relatively flat below the surface. However, they may not be level. We use a gps to tell us the elevation of your drill site and we survey the area wells that we have drilled and compare their elevations. From this, we can estimate the depth that your well will need to be. However, we have found out on many occasions, that when God laid the foundations of the earth, He followed no rules. It is not uncommon to see formations rise or fall several hundred feet in a mile. For instance, we drill in one subdivision where the depth to the lower trinity is 760′ on one side of the road, and 840′ on the other. We can never be sure about the depth of your well until we actually drill.

When selling a water well drill rig to be used overseas, you not only have to think about where it’s going but also how it’s going to get around once it gets there. Here in the U.S., getting from point A to point B is a relatively easy task when you consider that we have use of some of the best highway and road systems in the world. The same cannot be said for the roads in most developing countries.

The first option and the most efficient way to put together a combination mud/air rotary water well drilling rig package for drilling 100-120 m wells is to mount the mud pump, drill rods, large air compressor and deck engine on a big 500 HP tandem axle truck. However, not only does this big truck consume a lot of fuel, at 62,000+ pounds, it may be too big for the road system where it is going. Splitting the load by mounting the drill rig and mud pump on one smaller carrier and the large air compressor for DTH hammer rock drilling on a second smaller carrier is an affordable option.

A second option applies if the chosen smaller carrier is to be a truck built in the U.S., a gas engine version needs to be acquired . All diesel engine powered trucks built for the U.S. market since the 2007 model year require both Ultra Low Sulfur diesel and the DEF fluid for emissions control. Without these two fluids, the trucks will not run. Unfortunately, these fluids are typically not available in many foreign countries. There are a few cases where suitable new trucks with an exportable “dirty” diesel engine can be obtained for your drilling rig mount.

This brings us to the third option: separate trailer mounting of both the water well drilling rig/mud pump combination and the large air compressor. This is a common way that the SIMCO 2800 model drill rig has been supplied for export.  Not only is it a less costly way to ship your water well drilling equipment because it can all go inside one container, but the suitable sized new or used trucks needed to tow these trailers can be supplied in-country. This fact will help lower the overall cost of the final package and ensure emissions and weight requirements are met.

For more information about the options for customizing your own Water Well Drilling system, contact us at [email protected], call 800-338-9925 to talk to one of our knowledgeable sales team members, or request a free quote through our Contact page.

Greetings Tim & Charlott, below is a GPS link and information on the well we just installed in the honor of Tim & Charlott King! Your love and commitment has allowed our Clean Water 4 Life ministry to sink over 500 water wells for those in need here in the Solomon Islands! Here is a link to read my current newsletter with lots of pictures! http://www.rickrupp.com/newsletter.php

Togokoba SSEC Church & Community is approx 58 kilometers east of Honiara. It was a long bumpy drive to this village. I had to walk a long way to get to the place where they lived. They explained that their source of drinking water was the stream. They were so happy when I explained that our CW4L team was going to come sink a well right in their village. I tasted the well water several weeks later after our team had blessed them with a water well. It tasted so good! It was nice clean & cold water! It never ceases to amaze me that there is such a nice water table here in the rural areas of the Guadnacanal plains! I counted 10 houses in this community and the population is approx 80 people. Now they finally have a source of clean drinking water! These people have suffered for many years either drinking from an open hand dug well or from the stream. Togokoba SSEC Church & Community is very grateful to our CW4L sponsors.

If you are a homeowner or building a home in Massachusetts or New Hampshire that has been considering installing a drilled water well to suit your home or an irrigation water well this article has been written to help you further understand the process. The first step when considering this type of project would be to gather quotes from contractors and once you have received them realizing that to most homeowners it seems like the well quotes are written in a foreign language. Do not panic this blog will help translate.

Phase one of any well drilling project is Drilling the water well. A drilled water well is constructed by drilling through the surface material into solid bedrock underground and lining the upper portion of the hole with a steel pipe which is referred to as casing. Casing must be set 10 -15′ into the bedrock by code depending on the state and 18″ above grade. If you have very sandy soil that does not hold formation like clay soils a process called mud drilling must be utilized to hold the hole open to allow the driller to seat the casing into the well. The Mud drilling process is only used to seat the casing and the pricing will mimic the casing depth. The typical average of casing depth is 20-40 feet in Massachusetts and New Hampshire but its important to understand that it is possible for the bedrock to be located deeper. In honesty i always tell my clients to prepare for 20′ best case 120′ worst case for our predominant service areas however pockets of Western, MA  and South Eastern ,MA are notorious for deeper pockets of rock. Once the casing is firmly seated into bedrock by the driveshoe drilling will continue until an adequate water flow for your projects needs has been achieved.

The other terms when it comes to the drilling aspect of the project that tend to raise eyebrows are the retention pit and hydrofracturing. A retention pit is just what it sounds like a pit to retain water and drillings  coming out of the well head during the drilling process. Depending on the lots layout this may or may not be necessary and typically during an initial site visit it will be understood if a pit will be needed. Hydrofracturing is the next term that due to recent issues in the oil drilling field has become a scary term to some homeowners. Water Well Hydrofracturing is a process used to clean out veins in the rock to allow water to flow freely into the well. During the drilling process the driller may notice large changes in the lithology of rock that indicate that hydrofracturing may be the best solution for achieving flow when drilling and that is when this process is recommended opposed to drilling deeper.

Phase two of a well drilling project would be the pumping system. Most Well Drillers in Massachusetts and New Hampshire start the base package off with a 1/2 hp pumping system set at up to 300′ a 20 gallon tank and up to a 50′ offset line all necessary accessories and a pitless adapter. To start off lets talk about the pumps first and foremost pumps run on curves now without getting to engineery on you this means that each pump can only be set at certain depths to preform the way you want them to. What this translates to is that if you end up with a deeper well a larger pump will be necessary to achieve the pressure you need for your system. Once the well is in place and the depth and flow have been determined your contractor will propose a final recommendation for approval based off of the prices detailed on your proposal.  However this is why you will see multiple pump options on the well drillers quotation.

The first thing the pump crew will typically do when completing the pump installation is the offset line which is the electrical and water line from the well to the home. Most companies offer excavation services to dig this line or offer the homeowner the ability to supply the excavation themselves. The offset line connects to the well through an brass adapter called a pitless adapter. A pitless adapter is comprised of two pieces one connects to the water line in the offset and the other connects to the line going down the well holding the submersible pump this adapter is located 6′ under ground.  The electrical line is run from the home through conduit which is a piping approved for direct burial up the side of the well casing into the well cap where the wire continues down the well attached to the water line by guides and tape to the water pump below. An item called a torque arrestor is used just before the pump within the well to hold the pump in place so that when the pump starts up it cannot slam against the sides of the well deep within the ground.

Now its time to do the inside work which includes the tank, gauge pressure switch and/orcontrollers. The offset line runs into the homes utility room in most cases where the technician will connect a pressure tank to the line. The water line is then connected to a tank T which is an adapter that goes into the water pressure tank and allows the offset line to be connected to the line that will eventually be tied into the home.  In front of the pressure tank on the tee you will see two important items the gauge which will tell you the pressure of the system  and the Pressure switch. The pressure switch controls the well pump and provides a signal to turn on or off the water. The water well system is now ready for final connections by the designated plumber and electrician.

We hope this blog was able to explain thecomponents of the water well system and how they relate to the quote you received from Northeast Water Wells. If you have any further questions on any certain component you will find that most of the main components and services have hyperlinks to their individual pages on our website but please do not hesitate to call with any further questions and one of our qualified specialist would be more than happy to assist you. If you have yet to receive a quote feel free to submit a contact us inquiry on the right side of this page or call into our office 1-800-562-9355. Northeast Water Wells has been providing quality water well systems to homes across Massachusetts and New Hampshire Since 1966. Thank you for reading and we hope you have a wonderful day!!

A: Well drilling completion times vary from a half day to three days or longer.  Drilling time is affected by many factors including time to set up, difficult drilling formations and weather.  All of these factors vary from site to site and well to well.  These are also factors that we have no control over.  In addition, the time it takes to develop each well is different.  Because of these variables there is no way for us to give a fixed time for well completion.

Q: Yes. Artesian and Floridan Aquifer wells are permitted in your area. They can be drilled for several different purposes(home use, geothermal, irrigation, etc.). PWD drills many Floridan Aquifer wells and keeps a record of each one. Call our office for more information on Floridan Aquifer wells in your area.

A: Florida is fortunate to have one of the most porductive aquifers in the world, the Floridan Aquifer. When drilling a Floridan Aquifer well, PWD can guarantee the quantity of water the well will produce.

Unlike Floridan Aquifer wells, shallower wells access aquifers that have unpredictable characteristics. PWD will guarantee a minimum of 10 gallons per minute from wells other than Floridan Aquifer wells.

A: PWD has over 100 years of records of wells drilled in Northeast Florida. With your property address, we consult our records to see what wells are availble in your area.Floridan Aquifer wells are availble in all areas of Notheast Florida.

A:  “Salt & Pepper” wells, or  Intermediate wells are normally 3″ or 4″ in diameter and are drilled to depths of 220-320 feet. At this depth water is withdrawn from a aquifer that consist of clays and sands that resemble salt & pepper.

A: Part of the drilling process includes removing cuttings from the borehole we drill during well construction. To contain & dispose of the cuttings we usually dig two pits beside the drilling rig. These pits vary in size based on well size & depth. Generally they are +/- 3ft wide x 6ft long x 4ft deep. Drilling fluid is circulated through the pits where the cuttings settle out and the drilling fluid is reused. We will cover the pits when the well is complete.. For a period of time the covered pits will be soft.

If you do not want pits dug in your yard there is a solution. We can use portable above grade pits instead of digging the pits. When we use the above ground pits we also bring a vacuum tank to remove all of the drill cuttings and fluid from your yard. This does require an additional crew member, an additional truck, the vacuum tank to dispose of fluid and drill cuttings off site, therefore there is a charge for this service. We will be glad to price this service for you upon request.

A: Wells that “go dry” are generally shallow/surficial wells that are less than 50′. These wells depend on rainfall to replenish the water table. Partridge Well drills wells that are usually deeper and penetrate a confined aquifer. This means that our wells are not directly dependent on rainfall. The water level may rise and fall in these wells, but they do not go dry.

In cases where the power is lost or is not available and a pump is required to pull the water out of the well, PWD can install a pitcher pump or hand pump(pictured to the right) to access the water without power.

A: It is your choice.  We have to mix a drilling mud for the drilling process and dispose of it when we are finished  The mud(shown in this picture to the right) is composed of water, sand, and clay. Typically we pump this mud onto the property where the well is drilled. However, we do offer an upgrade where we can use a special truck to contain the drill mud and remove it from your property.

A water well is any type of excavation created to remove water from an underground aquifer (a geologic formation or series of formations that contain enough water to supply wells and springs). Wells created using traditional digging methods (pick and shovel or backhoe) are typically wide holes only 10"-30" deep. Driven wells are created by driving a small diameter pipe into soft earth (gravel or sand) and are generally 30"-50" deep. The most common method of well construction in the United States today is drilling, which requires a fairly complicated and expensive drill rig, usually mounted on a large truck. Drilled wells are typically 100"-400" deep but can be 1,000" or more. The U.S. Geological Survey provides an overview of types of wells[1] and the Environmental Protections Agency provides a glossary[2] of well-related terms.

Prices for drilling a water well are typically quoted by the foot, and vary significantly depending on the type and difficulty of the material being drilled through (sand, solid rock, clay, etc.).

Drilling the well hole, installing the casing (a tubular lining that prevents the well hole from collapsing) and adding a well cap (a tight-fitting, vermin-proof top seal) typically costs $15-$30per foot, or $1,500-$3,000for a 100" deep well, and $6,000-$12,000for a 400" well. (However, if the geological conditions are especially difficult or access is extremely limited, drilling can cost $30-$50a foot or more.) For example, the sustainable Arizona homesteaders at ByExample.com[3] report paying $6,750to have well drilled 280" deep, or about $24/foot.

A complete water system is typically designed (and a total price quoted) after the well is successfully drilled and the well"s depth and water yield is known. A well pump to bring the water to the surface, a pressurized storage tank or tanks (if the well"s yield is not enough to meet peak demand), underground piping to take the water to the house, electrical wiring to power the system, a control panel and other items can add $2,000-$8,000or more to the total cost, depending on the size of pump and the distance to the house. This brings the typical total for drilling a well and setting up a private water delivery system to $3,500-$20,000or more, but an especially deep and difficult well with a complex water system can cost $20,000-$50,000or more, depending on depth, water yield and system complexity. A great deal depends on local geological conditions. For example, Cushing & Sons Well Drilling[4] in New Hampshire estimates an average cost of $5,000for a complete water well system in that area, while a Colorado landowner[5] reports costs of $14,000to drill a 600" well (about $23-$24/foot) and another $7,000-$8,000for a constant pressure pump system with a 70" water line to the house, or $21,000-$22,000total.

The Kansas Geological Society explains how to evaluate[6] the potential for a water well and a video by the American Groundwater Turst provides an overview of well water systems, including drilling methods.

It can take one to several days to drill a well and install the casing, depending on the final depth needed. Typically the drill rig sits on a large truck, which the crew will position on the selected site, then drill until water is reached. ByExample.com[7] in Arizona reports that it took two days to drill a 280" well and one day to set the casing with concrete.

In some areas it is illegal to construct any kind of well without first obtaining a permit, and most jurisdictions specify how far the well must be from existing buildings, roadways, animal enclosures, a septic system or other installations. The Water Systems Council provides a tool to determine which state well codes apply[8] .

Search for local water well contractors through the National Ground Water Association[9] . The association also provides a state-by-state list of well-water-related resources, including licensing agencies for geologists, engineers, and contractors; regulatory agencies; groundwater-use summaries; and groundwater-quality reports.

The well driller should provide a written contract listing the work to be done and the specific costs, including potential fees for drilling deeper or drilling a second well if the first must be abandoned. Foster Water Well Drilling in California explains how to hire a water well contractor[10] .

Drill bit sheared off. Contractor said he"d comeback and start over after he finished next job. Kept putting me off. A year later just now getting to State arbitration hearing. I"m getting screwed over by his bond company too. I"ll end up needing to hire an attorney (7k!) and going to court... lots of stress, 2 yrs of my life. I"m disabled, & live alone in remote area of desert because that"s all I can afford. Chambers" business is booming. He wouldn"t have lost a penny by doing the right thing.

Drilled 105" pump at 100" 15gpm. 1 1/2" waterline to house. 6.9ph, 12ppm clear water iron. Tds 15ppm. Typical for Mercer Pa. I did the 258" of 60" deep trench, pvc pipe, 30 gal. Pressure tank, wiring in conduits, Trace sw4024 inverter, solar panels, 1640 ah telco 24vdc battery bank. As of 11/19/18 still going strong! PS: I have a reusable screen pre filter, greensand iron filter, sears 880 water softener and reverse osmosis filter in the kitchen but it is really not needed.

drilled 3000 feet just to find bedrock. found at 3000. water pump at 240 feet, pumps 300 gal per minute. static water 215 feet. pH 6.8, no iron, 6 inch well with 12 inch casing. submerged pump. recovery time about 5 min. TSS a little high, no other issues..clear water

My original well IS 130 feet but the casing has a leak. I didn"t know about a dry well. The drilling company charged $10.00 a foot but was nice enough to settle for the money I had put down. Now, I am looking for another company to repair my existing well as this company I used does not do repairs anymore. I can"t afford another dry well. Do you know some company that is reputable to do repairs?

I just got the price of $1350 to make this existing well work with a submersible 1/2 HP pump. No power, so will leave as a generator hook up. I actually just emailed him back and said it was too much since he gave me a lower hourly maintenance fee for this task when we first met at the site. I wanted a price for two other wells on the property with underground storage and solar set up, but no proposals given for that work.

Does anyone have any numbers that relate to the areas outside North bend up Mettman Creek? Looking at land there. Have no idea what to expect. Contacted the local authorities but have not heard back, yet. I"ve read about water being around 100" down. Don"t know if this is true. ANYONE?

We bought some property with an existing well, so the $7100 is the quote I got for the pump, install, certified flow rate testing and water sample testing. We need this in order to get a building permit.

I have not started yet but I expect to be looking for a well on my property in the Spring. Everybody who commented had useful information. However there was no one commenting who are in the area where I have land. providing a map of areas in question would help even if its not exact. This would be an even greater help for potential buyers of this type of service. I appreciate you are here

The cost of well drilling far exceeded my expectations. Total cost for the well drilling and casing came just under $11000. The pump, pressure tank, etc added up to another $4000. I wish I knew before buying the land it would be so costly. At the very least, the estimates I received prior to drilling were accurate.

We got estimate before work was done. Old well was 180 ft. Based upon a neighbor"s 10 yr old well at 350 ft, we were told our well would be 350 ft, best case. We were advised if it wasn"t 350 ft, it would likely be 500 ft. Very happy with Freese Well Drilling and Brown"s Well and Pump service.

This is a typical quote for a domestic water well right now in the central valley of California, May of 2016. What"s included? Well, 6" PVC casing and pipe, permit ($800.00), 3 Hp pump and installation. Plumbed into existing well electric and bladder pressure tank system and 30 to 50ft of trenching. No problem finding water, on top of the largest aquifer in the state. Soil conditions, sandy loam, no rocks (carrots grown here).

And after dug, they pumped for over one week, still muddy water is coming out. Now they took out pump used other sources to pulled the water out but still muddy.

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