how to use a drywall mud pump made in china

Cleaning a Pump doesn’t get any easier than this! Columbia Quick-Clean Mud Pumps feature quick-release clamps on head that allow for easy removal of the pump tube from the head. This allows for easy and quick cleaning of the entire unit, and is especially useful when using fast setting joint compound (a.k.a Hot Mud.) Our Pumps are built to exacting air-tight standards making them the easiest to pump and prime. They’re fabricated with an anodized aluminum cylinder, durable stainless steel shaft, a precision machined cast aluminum head, and a tough, smooth solid aluminum leg. Whether you are using quick-set mud or any other type of joint compound, we have the pump for your bucket. Stainless Steel Box Filler and Gooseneck sold separately.

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Australia, Austria, Bahamas, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belgium, Bermuda, Bolivia, Brazil, Brunei Darussalam, Bulgaria, Cambodia, Canada, Cayman Islands, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Ecuador, Egypt, Estonia, Finland, France, French Guiana, Germany, Gibraltar, Greece, Guadeloupe, Guatemala, Guernsey, Honduras, Hungary, Iceland, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Jersey, Jordan, Kuwait, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macau, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Martinique, Mexico, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Oman, Pakistan, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Republic of Croatia, Reunion, Romania, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Sri Lanka, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Trinidad and Tobago, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, United States, Vietnam

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In this article you will find my buying guide: the key point about even the best drywall primer does not need to have a lot of stain-blocking firepower (explained below). It simply seals and preps for the topcoat.

In my 30+ years as a pro, I’ve found the easiest painting is applying drywall primer. It’s a breeze. It goes on easily and as long as you do not leave drips, it dries flat and you don’t need to worry about looks. Here I highly recommend any top brand: avoid the no name brands.

I’ve used many brands and there is no great difference between the top makers. My recommendation is to go with any of the top brands. I often have it delivered from amazon or other places. My best advice is simply don’t go with a brand you have never heard of. Who knows what they put in there!

Water (or other) stains? Drywall primer won’t block them. Kilz Original is the go-to stain blocking primer check this very good product. Another really great deal is Zinsser Cover Stain. Less expensive than others, but will probably handle any water stain in one coat .

The drywall paper and the drywall compound (“mud”) are both porous surfaces butthey absorb paint at different rates. If you do not equalize them with a primer made for this new wall, you will see the difference and it looks sloppy.

High-quality primers are not that expensive and do not contain stain-blockers that jack up the price. Buy just what you need, as overkill will just be a waste of money.

We use roller covers from Purdy and Wooster: wool/poly blend rollers. The wool gives it absorbancy and the polyester gives it longevity. We use this roller all day, day after day for months before it needs replacing. Just keep it clean between uses.

You can always apply drywall compound to a crack, wait for it to dry and re-sand. We normally use  quick-dry spackle or and caulk that are fairly quick to dry and both that don’t shrink.

After the joint compound is all sanded, the first thing to do is to dry brush the dust off the walls (it clings). This brush fits on your paint pole or broomstick.  Then, without stirring up too much dust, gently sweep the floor. You can use a little Shop-Vac with a paper filter, (not your house vac: it will die), then mop the floor. (read about the types of drywall vacuum sanders here),

Does new drywall require 3 coats? Mostly yes, and the first must be a drywall primer sealer. There is good news coming below, however about that primer.

Having said that, painting brand new walls is the only time I’d consider using a paint and primer in one, which may save you one coat of paint. See the section onPaint and Primer in One below. This is definitely not the best drywall primer, but it will do. If you do, buy quality paint and primer in one: use Kilz, a very good name in the drywall sealer world, and a very good paint and primer in one. I trust Kilz’s product, it is also aprimer with low VOCs. It comes in many colors and sheens.

For you traditional 3-coaters (like me), the first good news is that you don’t have to buy some exotic or expensive primer (assuming you have no mold or stains) for priming drywalls. You don’t need oil-based primer either. The best primer for new drywall are the low-cost primers, as they containonly what is needed: a normal drywall sealer does not need ingredients to seal stains, odors, mold, etc.

If your unpainted drywall has been waiting for a long time, especially in a basement, it may have sprouted some mold or mildew. In this case, you’ll need a little more firepower. If so, you’ll need to read the last section of this post.

Why not just put on 2 coats of paint? One word: Flashing. Because you will see the seams (and screw holes, tape, and corner bead) where the (1) joint compound a.k.a. ‘mud’ meets the (2) paper that is the outer face of the rock. The paper and the drywall compound are different surfaces andthey absorb paint at different rates You could apply 5 coats and still have flashing without a good drywall primer. Now you see that a drywall primer sealer means: it seals the pores so they all absorb alike.

Yours Truly learned the hard way: I know you can end up with terrible flashing! So the drywall primer sealer is designed with just the right sealants so there will be no difference in sheen or color changes in your finish paint.

Some painters say leftover flat (and only flat) paint is as good as the best drywall primer and will give a good result. No buddy. This does not work out but I need to make the job perfect: perhaps you don’t.

More good news: you do not have to apply a normal heavy coat of paint as you will with your topcoats; you just need to give the new wall a drink, and the job is done. Get the can of primer well shaken (or stirred, Mr. Bond). This coat can be very fast: you will be done in half the time of painting one of your topcoats. Calculate that into your expected quantity (but all paint seller accept unopened cans in return). Even the very best drywall primer does not have to be a heavy coat: just a film will do.

Important first step: clean the room before you paint!After the joint compound is all sanded the first thing to do is to dry brush the dust off the walls (it clings). Then, without stirring up too much dust, gently sweep the floor before painting. You can use a Shop-Vac with a paper filter (not the kind that just has a hollow can for debris unless you like clouds).

Wear some kind of mask. The 6300 is large for most men and the 6200 medium. Then you need the filters. I simplified the very complex world of respirator masks and filters in this post, but the bottom line is that painters normally wear the half-mask you see just above with these filters: a kit with the outer paper covers to extend the long life of the cartridges that keep you safe.

Probably ok for your home use, but I cannot say for sure that with paint and primer in one you will not see the difference in the sections of the wall: joints vs. paper, but feel free to try. It is not the best drywall primer solution, but for walls in good new condition, some paints do promise to equalize the surfaces at the same time they leave your color.

I understand you may be very tempted because you have painted before and you want to cut out a whole coat. But remember that the result will not be the same as a traditional 3-coat job using the best primer for drywall. Here a more complete post on paint and primer in one.

Yes, but no. You will have the blotchy look we discuss above, but you will save the cost of the new primer. Don’t use exterior paints though, as they are very toxic inside a house.If going this way, try to use flat paint.

Yes, and we do this in large newly constructed rooms. This means renting or buying a DIY airless sprayer, but it can save loads of time. That Graco is quite a reasonable price, and you can re-sell for half of the cost when you are done! This is especially fast for highly textured walls and ceilings.

No, you probably need a shellac in our first coat product. Most wood will have sap (which will bleed through a simple primer like drywall primer and every coat of paint you put on after that. Also, the wood’s tree rings that absorb at different rates (the dark ring vs the light ring). Why is that bad? The softer ring will expand differently as the primer dries and you will not be left with a smooth surface. We use  BIN alcohol-based primer (liquid quart),a white pigmented shellac, when priming almost all woods. For that, you need rubbing alcohol for clean-up. Good to have the spray can (shown) also.

Especially with drywall, you will find that the ‘mud’ and the paper of the main sections dry at different speeds. You can easily tell when the last of the primer is dry, usually an hour or two. Don’t rush this step! All drywall primers are relatively fast drying.

Some paint makers will say you must paint within 48 hours after letting the primer dry, but I have never seen any problem waiting longer with the best drywall primer. Dust clinging to the wall while you delay is the only real problem: just use a broom and vacuum and/or mop (see above).

Not really. Some high hiding primers exist and they will fill more cracks than other primers, but at what cost? Drywall primer is cheap so we just fill cracks by hand. If you do manage to have some very small cracks go away after painting, you will find they re-crack quickly in time.

Definitely, we do this if we are in doubt about the chosen color’s ability to cover in two coats. That tinted primer is very smart as long as the paint store folks do not ruin the primer’s properties by over-tinting it. You will not get your top-coat color because the paint store folks will not be able to add as much tint as they would with paint.

Especially if you are about to paint with ared, and that includes red-browns, tint your primer gray. Red is notorious due to the colorants that are used to achieve your color, almost all shades of red do not cover well. For some reason a chemist can tell you, the gray primer allows the coverage to maximize.

How can I achieve a “Level 5 Drywall finish”?You may have heard of different levels of finish, including Level 5 drywall (the smoothest) or skim coating, and so on. A great website for all you ever need to know and more is drywall101.com.It’s all well described on youtube: if you can afford it, this is the very best drywall for your home. This goes beyond the best drywall primer for sure.

So if see mold and you have started painting, you must stop seal it as soon as you see it. Try my system of buying a cheap paintbrush, cutting the handle so it fits in a small jar. Pour some of your primer in that jar and use that for your spot priming. The best primer for drywall, in this case, is the BIN we mentioned above. (Read about mold resistant paint).

Again, bleach is not the answer: it’s deadly, literally, and can make the mold that survives multiply faster and live stronger. If you do use bleach you will need a chemical respirator, (read about respirators) and/or a very well ventilated room.

If the area is very black with growth, you may need a stiff bristle brush to get it loose. Let the area dry before the primer is applied.A dehumidifier may be helpful here. They remove the opportunity for mold to grow.

See pump sprayers on this page. We recommend one thatcan also handle spraying light stains for your deck next time it needs it. Or click on the image for a low-budget one.

All you ever needed to know aboutthe difference between sealers, primers, and undercoats in one short article from some good kiwi people in New Zealand.

Here is the way we use primer in situations when we are not sure what kind of stain-blocking power we need: start with the lesser primers like the best drywall primer and if anything bleeds through, hit the spots with the heavy-duty primer.  This would apply to the best drywall primer, which may not have the power to block some discoloration.

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USG suggested we write an article about new packaging for joint compound. We asked them to go deeper, and make a case the product is sustainable and safe. You decide if the company made its case.

USG:At the end of 2015, USG connected with finishers via social media about their favorite joint compound. The “What Color Lid Are You?” campaign spread like wildfire. Over 200 finishers engaged in conversation with USG to voice their opinions about various joint compound products.

Bad Idea: Representing contractors sanding joint compound without a mask is commonplace, and encourages risky work practices. Power sanders like this capture about 80-90 percent of the dust they toss.

Green Builder:We would love to hear some research about the eco footprint of various joint compounds that addresses which is most sustainable in terms of manufacture, serviceability, durability?

USG: "Most USG building products have low negative impacts on the environment, including equivalent greenhouse gas potential, primary energy, and virtual water, among others.

However, this is not good enough. At USG, we are always innovating and redeveloping products to reduce their impact on the environment while improving overall performance of a build. Many of our products use gypsum as a base. Gypsum is the only material that can be heated, thereby driving off water and causing a solid-to-solid phase change, forming Plaster of Paris. When water is added, it gives off the same amount of heat turning it back into gypsum. Conversely, many other products use limestone and limes as their base.

Both these materials are defined by the USGS as a “perpetual resource,” or one that is virtually inexhaustible on a human time scale. USG also uses organic ingredients like starch as our binders and glue bases, as well as evaluates many secondary waste materials (both pre- and post-consumer recycled material) for substitution of virgin materials. For all USG products, we strongly believe in material transparency and claim verification, as needed.

Ready-mix type joint compounds, specifically, are no exception. USG Sheetrock Brand All Purpose Joint Compound (Green Lid) is the number one selling ready-mix joint compound in the industry. USG Sheetrock Brand ready-mix and drying-type compounds utilize a perpetual resource as the formulation foundation, as well as other ingredients such as organic latexes. We also evaluate the need for additives, such as mold inhibitors for improved shelf life, while striving to lead the way in assuring a sustainable and transparent product portfolio that meets the high demands of our customers.

We have tested our entire joint compound offering for their VOC emissions, TVOC, and VOC content (non-solid materials only), and continue to lead the way on a government mandated global compliance packaging change.

Green Builder:What progress has been made in the drywall mix over the past decade and is it any safer for workers. Could USG address some of the health concerns from this 1998 study, which says:

"A study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) has shown that "nuisance dust" from joint-compound mud used in drywall work can contain toxic materials. And, there can be dangerously high amounts of dust from sanding and other drywall work.

NIOSH conducted a Health Hazard Evaluation of dust and toxic exposures to 10 renovation workers at 2 sites doing drywall finishing. Measuring the air the workers were breathing, NIOSH found 9 of 10 total-dust samples at higher levels than limits set by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). More important, 2 of 13 samples of respirable (breathable) dust were above the limits OSHA says are safe. Two samples contained respirable silica. Silica can cause crippling and fatal lung diseases.

"The health effects associated with long-term chronic airborne exposure to the dust or particulates generated during drywall sanding are not known," the report said, adding that even when the dust amounts are within recommended limits, they may not be safe. This is especially true, the report said, when parts of the dusts are known to have a "biologic effect."

What the documentation says: The Safety Data Sheet for USG"s standard joint compound does not call out any especially serious risks although the material is classified as a"Hazardous Chemical" as defined by the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard, 29 CFR 1910.1200.

Our point in looking deeper at joint compound is not to create a scare around what has become an essential, important product in modern home construction. Rather, it"s to point out that this product, like many building materials, needs to be treated with proper safety protocols. It"s made to hold up for decades, to dry quickly, and remain stable. It"s not meant to be applied, sanded, and inhaled eight hours a day without respirators and protective gear.

What we would like to see are more R&D efforts to steadily improve the composition of joint compound. It seems likely that safe substitutes could be found for silicates, and formaldehyde, at the very least. The company that does this first will have a great story to tell, and remove some of the risk associated with "maverick" contractors who are foolish enough to ignore the safety protocols when using this material.

I’m writing to you in response to your February 10, 2016, article that features USG’s joint treatment products titled “How Green is Drywall Joint Compound? Looking Deeper into Materials and Health Risks.”We were disappointed that many of the important points that we shared with you on February 5, 2016, were not reflected in the article.

Editor: Many of these points were cosmetic in nature and not relevant to the building science information we were after, but I see in this letter you have been much more thorough in offering detailed building science answers. We"re happy to reprint it here for readers looking to go deeper.

USG has been and continues to be a leader in joint treatment products and we have proactively addressed health and safety issues for these products for many decades.

For over 100 years, we have been the market leader, primarily because our formulators spend an enormous amount of time determining what our customers want, and then designing our products and formulas to meet those needs. As part of this leadership, we have addressed dust by (a) manufacturing wallboard panels in sizes that reduce the total length of joints to be treated; (b) by promoting low dust joint treatment formulas; and (c) by promoting formulations which in terms of their ease of use and functionality allow finishers to apply joint treatment using the least amount necessary, which in turn means less material to sand.

The industry uses many terms to describe these attributes, including, but not limited to: open time, feel, slip and trowelability. But in all cases, we are trying to find a product that goes on easily, doesn’t shrink and covers and conceals joints, fasteners and trims with the least amount of material necessary.

To appreciate all that has been done to mitigate health risks to drywall finishers, you need to look at not only our joint treatment products, but also at our wallboard on which the joint treatment is applied. Finishing wallboard joints takes time, and the labor cost for this task is far greater than the cost of the actual materials themselves. Drywall contractors don’t want to finish more joints than they have to, and for the joints that are necessary, they want to spend as little time as possible on finishing.

In other words, manufacturers, drywall contractors, health and safety professionals and the finishers themselves all share the same goal: to reduce time spent finishing joints, thereby reducing their exposure to any resulting dust from the finishing process. Over the decades, as a manufacturer of gypsum panels, we have helped achieve that goal:

We offer custom lengths of panels, when customers ask, since custom lengths reduce the number of extra joints involved when hanging odd end pieces and minimize the wallboard waste onthe jobsite.

In the 1990s, we started producing 54″ wide board (in addition to the standard 48″) to accommodate customers who wanted to finish 9′ high walls with only two pieces of wallboard rather than three.

I’d also like to point out that we have recommended the job practice of wet sanding joint‐treated areas for many years and we would be happy to send you some of our literature on the topic. While we know that wet sanding is not a universal practice among the drywall finishing trades that use our products, it has important advantages in terms of significantly reducing and/or eliminating respirable dust from the sanding operation. For this reason, we continue to recommend it as we have for many years. We provide the following product safety recommendations to our customers on all of our products:

CAUTION: Dust from sanding may cause irritation to eyes, skin, nose, throat and upper respiratory tract. Use only in a well‐ventilated area, wear a NIOSH/MSHA‐approved respirator. Use a sander with vacuum attachment or wet‐sanding to reduce dust. Wear eye protection. If eye contact occurs, flush thoroughly with water for 15 minutes. If on skin: Wash with plenty of water. If swallowed or irritation persists, call physician. Keep containers closed when not in use. For more information call Product Safety: 800‐507‐ 8899 or see the SDS at usg.com

One specific concern we have with the article related to this point is the photograph that was used, which showed a worker wearing safety glasses, yet no dust mask, and holding a power tool up against a wall. The heading under the photo reads: “Bad Idea: Representing contractor sanding joint compound without a mask is commonplace and encourages risky work practices. Power sanders like this capture about 80 to 90% of the dust they toss.”

Your readers may believe that it was USG who was “representing contractors sanding joint compound without a mask and/or other necessary and recommended Personal Protection Equipment (PPE).” However, this is not a USG‐provided photograph, nor have we ever used this image. Instead, we believe it is a photo whose rights are controlled by the Festool Company. See the product page for the Festool 571579 Planex Sander LHS 225 (https://www.festoolproducts.com).

Editor"s Note: We are not required to obtain rights when commenting on a photograph in the context of a news article. Since this was a journalistic article making a critical observation about the photo and its presentation, not a promotional piece, use of the photograph was within our legal rights. You are correct, however, that this is NOT a USG photo, nor is this a practice recommended or condoned by USG. In fact, that"s the point of the photo and caption, to show how not all contractors and third-party manufacturers represent drywall sanding safely.

Recently, in connection with revisions to our warning labels and Safety Data Sheets to comply with OSHA’s GHS regulation, we retained independent third‐party professionals to conduct both in‐field and controlled laboratory studies of our joint compounds in an effort to assess potential exposure to silica and total dust. In both the field and the lab study, there were no exceedences of the OHSA Permissible Exposure Limits for silica.

We asked the independent third‐party professionals of those studies (Carnow, Conibear & Associates on the field study and R.J. Lee on the lab study) to submit their findings in technical papers to peer reviewed journals for publication. Additionally, these recent studies showed excellent results when power sanders were used with a HEPA vacuum attachment.

You stated in your article, “Another material in the dust that may be unsafe is kaolin. Found in clay, kaolin causes pneumoconiosis or permanent lung damage.” I wanted to make a point of clarification that kaolin is not “found in clay.” Rather, it is the name of a certain kind of clay. Kaolin is the most common type of clay whose principal mineral constituent is “kaolinite”, hence the common name kaolin (also known as china clay, ball clay and fire clay). This type of clay is extensively used in the paint, ceramic, and piping industries. Editor: Good point. Thanks for that clarification.

I hope this helps clear up some of misconceptions you may have of USG, our joint treatment products, as well as what we have done as the market leader for more than 100 years as the leader in addressing the safety concerns of the professional finishers and DIYers that proudly purchase and use our products each and every day. I will personally follow‐up with you to ensure that you received this correspondence, to answer any outstanding questions you may have, and to offer our access to our subject matter experts for further discussion/opportunity to interview. In the meantime, I’ve included my contact information below.

One compound ingredient, Attapulgite, is considered to be carcinogenic under certain conditions in animal testing. These same conditions should not occur in normal human use of the material.

Skin Sensitization Potential: This product contains an amount of Triazinetriethanol (THT) (CAS No. 4719-04-4) that is below the approved EPA regulated limits. THT can act as a sensitizer. Numerous human studies with concentrations up to 1% yielded negative (no sensitization) results. However, some results showed positive reactions in concentrations <0.5% mostly in persons with eczema.

Crystalline silica: Raw materials in this product may contain respirable crystalline silica. Exposures to respirable crystalline silica are not expected during the normal use of this product. However, actual levels must be determined by workplace hygiene testing. Prolonged and repeated exposure to airborne free respirable crystalline silica can result in lung disease (i.e., silicosis) and/or lung cancer.

This article was originally published January 22, 2016. It has been updated and republished with new information to reflect changes in the technology and products.

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