maintenance of mud pump brands

Many things go into getting the most life out of your mud pump and its components — all important to extend the usage of this vital piece of equipment on an HDD jobsite. Some of the most important key points are covered below.

The most important thing you can do is service your pump, per the manufacturer’s requirements. We get plenty of pumps in the shop for service work that look like they have been abused for years without having basic maintenance,  such as regular oil changes. You wouldn’t dream of treating your personal vehicle like that, so why would you treat your pump like that.

Check the oil daily and change the oil regularly. If you find water or drilling mud contamination in the oil, change the oil as soon as possible. Failure to do so will most likely leave you a substantial bill to rebuild the gear end, which could have been avoided if proper maintenance procedures would have been followed. Water in the oil does not allow the oil to perform correctly, which will burn up your gear end. Drilling mud in your gear end will act as a lapping compound and will wear out all of the bearing surfaces in your pump. Either way it will be costly. The main reasons for having water or drilling mud in the gear end of your pump is because your pony rod packing is failing and/or you have let your liners and pistons get severely worn. Indication of this is fluid that should be contained inside the fluid end of your pump is now moving past your piston and spraying into the cradle of the pump, which forces its way past the pony rod packing. Pony rod packing is meant to keep the oil in the gear end and the liner wash fluid out of the gear end. Even with brand new packing, you can have water or drilling fluid enter the gear end if it is sprayed with sufficient force, because a piston or liner is worn out.

There is also usually a valve on the inlet of the spray bar. This valve should be closed enough so that liner wash fluid does not spray all over the top of the pump and other components.

Liner wash fluid can be comprised of different fluids, but we recommend just using clean water. In extremely cold conditions, you can use RV antifreeze. The liner wash or rod wash system is usually a closed loop type of system, consisting of a tank, a small pump and a spray bar. The pump will move fluid from the tank through the spray bar, and onto the inside of the liner to cool the liner, preventing scorching. The fluid will then collect in the bottom of the cradle of the pump and drain back down into the collection tank below the cradle and repeat the cycle. It is important to have clean fluid no matter what fluid you use. If your liners are leaking and the tank is full of drilling fluid, you will not cool the liners properly — which will just make the situation worse. There is also usually a valve on the inlet of the spray bar. This valve should be closed enough so that liner wash fluid does not spray all over the top of the pump and other components. Ensure that the water is spraying inside the liner and that any overspray is not traveling out of the pump onto the ground or onto the pony rod packing where it could be pulled into the gear end. If the fluid is spraying out of the cradle area and falling onto the ground, it won’t be long before your liner wash tank is empty. It only takes a minute without the cooling fluid being sprayed before the liners become scorched. You will then need to replace the pistons and liners, which is an avoidable costly repair. Make a point to check the liner wash fluid level several times a day.

Liner wash fluid can be comprised of different fluids, but it is recommended to just using clean water. In extremely cold conditions, you can use RV antifreeze.

Drilling fluid — whether pumping drilling mud, straight water or some combination of fluid — needs to be clean. Clean meaning free of solids. If you are recycling your fluid, make sure you are using a quality mud recycling system and check the solids content often throughout the day to make sure the system is doing its job. A quality mud system being run correctly should be able to keep your solids content down to one quarter of 1 percent or lower. When filling your mud recycling system, be sure to screen the fluid coming into the tanks. If it is a mud recycling system, simply make sure the fluid is going over the scalping shaker with screens in the shaker. If using some other type of tank, use an inline filter or some other method of filtering. Pumping out of creeks, rivers, lakes and ponds can introduce plenty of solids into your tanks if you are not filtering this fluid. When obtaining water out of a fire hydrant, there can be a lot of sand in the line, so don’t assume it’s clean and ensure it’s filtered before use.

Cavitation is a whole other detailed discussion, but all triplex pumps have a minimum amount of suction pressure that is required to run properly. Make sure this suction pressure is maintained at all times or your pump may cavitate. If you run a pump that is cavitating, it will shorten the life of all fluid end expendables and, in severe cases, can lead to gear end and fluid end destruction. If the pump is experiencing cavitation issues, the problem must be identified and corrected immediately.

The long and the short of it is to use clean drilling fluid and you will extend the life of your pumps expendables and downhole tooling, and keep up with your maintenance on the gear end of your pump. Avoid pump cavitation at all times. Taking a few minutes a day to inspect and maintain your pump can save you downtime and costly repair bills.

Since horizontal directional drilling (HDD) work tends to be slower in the winter months, particularly when the ground is frozen, winter is a prime time to inspect the power end of the pump and prevent downtime on the job later.

If one waits until an audible problem can be detected, it is often very expensive to repair. All smaller HDD pumps – 100 hp and smaller — tend to use the same type of internal components regardless of the manufacturer.

The power end should last for years if it is given proper maintenance. Clean lubricant is essential for longevity along with wiper box seals that are in good condition. External influences such as allowing the pistons to leak profusely and or cavitation tend to shorten the life span of the power end components quickly. It is easy to visually inspect the power end components for wear and detect a problem before it becomes very expensive to repair.

The largest load bearing area of the pump is the crosshead pin and bushing area. Wear can be detected by locking the intermittent or piston rod with a pipe wrench and rotating the crank shaft slightly. If one can feel any slack it can only be coming from the pin and bushing or the connecting rod bearing. It then becomes necessary to remove the connecting rod assembly consisting of the connecting rod and cross head. If slack is determined in the pin bushing, it will be necessary to press out the pin and inspect the bushing and the crosshead pin in the eye of the connecting rod. Some manufacturers ship bushings that are designed to fit. Others ship them and they have to be reamed to fit the pin after the bushing is installed. The installation instructions and dimensional fits are provided by the manufacturer in the pump manual.

The next area of concern is the connecting rod bearings themselves. If visual wear can be seen, use a micrometer and measure the crankshaft journals to make sure they are not out of round. If the journals check out, then all is needed is new connecting rod bearings. Some manufactures utilize shims to get the correct fit to the journal. Others provide automotive style bearings that only require correct torque to the rod cap for correct installation. There are pros and cons concerning automotive style vs shim bearings. Shim type bearings does allow for oversized connecting rod bearing should the journals be worn. This allows for turning down the crank journals a few thousands and utilizing a larger connecting rod bearing. If a pump uses automotive style precision bearings and the journals are out of round, it is necessary to replace the crankshaft.

The tapered roller bearing should last for years. If the rollers and races are not pitted, utilizing the same set of roller bearings is allowable. Checking the end play on the crankshaft is a simple task. With the use of a dial indicator, check for the lateral movement of the shaft. It if falls within the manufacturer’s tolerances, nothing needs to be done, If not, then it will be necessary to add or remove shims. Shims packs are provided by the manufacturer so one can get the proper end play on the crankshaft. The shims themselves come in different thickness allowing one to add or remove to get the correct end play.

Wiper box packing keeps the oil within the power frame and external contamination from entering the power end. The packing is easy to inspect and essential for longevity of the power end. The wiper box packing must remain in excellent condition at all times. Allowing the pump to set for extended periods of time or letting external contamination build on the packing shortens the lifespan.

If one waits until an audible problem can be detected, it is often very expensive to repair. All smaller HDD pumps – 100 hp and smaller — tend to use the same type of internal components regardless of the manufacturer.

Inspection of the power end allows the owner to dictate when repairs are necessary rather than allowing the pump to dictate during the middle of a job when repair is required. If problems are detected early, repair is relatively inexpensive. If a problem is not detected early, that problem often leads to more unnecessary wear and affects other components of the pump. An early fix to any problem is relatively inexpensive. Allowing the problem to continue can often cost several thousands of dollars and downtime on a job.

Cavitation is an undesirable condition that reduces pump efficiency and leads to excessive wear and damage to pump components. Factors that can contribute to cavitation, such as fluid velocity and pressure, can sometimes be attributed to an inadequate mud system design and/or the diminishing performance of the mud pump’s feed system.

Although cavitation is avoidable, without proper inspection of the feed system, it can accelerate the wear of fluid end parts. Over time, cavitation can also lead to expensive maintenance issues and a potentially catastrophic failure.

When a mud pump has entered full cavitation, rig crews and field service technicians will see the equipment shaking and hear the pump “knocking,” which typically sounds like marbles and stones being thrown around inside the equipment. However, the process of cavitation starts long before audible signs reveal themselves – hence the name “the silent killer.”

Mild cavitation begins to occur when the mud pump is starved for fluid. While the pump itself may not be making noise, damage is still being done to the internal components of the fluid end. In the early stages, cavitation can damage a pump’s module, piston and valve assembly.

The imperceptible but intense shock waves generated by cavitation travel directly from the fluid end to the pump’s power end, causing premature vibrational damage to the crosshead slides. The vibrations are then passed onto the shaft, bull gear and into the main bearings.

If not corrected, the vibrations caused by cavitation will work their way directly to critical power end components, which will result in the premature failure of the mud pump. A busted mud pump means expensive downtime and repair costs.

Washouts are one of the leading causes of module failure and take place when the high-pressure fluid cuts through the module’s surface and damages a sealing surface. These unexpected failures are expensive and can lead to a minimum of eight hours of rig downtime for module replacement.

To stop cavitation before it starts, install and tune high-speed pressure sensors on the mud suction line set to sound an alarm if the pressure falls below 30 psi.

Although the pump may not be knocking loudly when cavitation first presents, regular inspections by a properly trained field technician may be able to detect moderate vibrations and slight knocking sounds.

Gardner Denver offers Pump University, a mobile classroom that travels to facilities and/or drilling rigs and trains rig crews on best practices for pumping equipment maintenance.

Program participants have found that, by improving their maintenance skills, they have extended the life of fluid end expendables on their sites. They have also reported decreases in both production and repair costs, as well as reductions in workplace hazards.

Severe cavitation will drastically decrease module life and will eventually lead to catastrophic pump failure. Along with downtime and repair costs, the failure of the drilling pump can also cause damage to the suction and discharge piping.

When a mud pump has entered full cavitation, rig crews and field service technicians will see the equipment shaking and hear the pump ‘knocking’… However, the process of cavitation starts long before audible signs reveal themselves – hence the name ‘the silent killer.’In 2017, a leading North American drilling contractor was encountering chronic mud system issues on multiple rigs. The contractor engaged in more than 25 premature module washes in one year and suffered a major power-end failure.

Gardner Denver’s engineering team spent time on the contractor’s rigs, observing the pumps during operation and surveying the mud system’s design and configuration.

The engineering team discovered that the suction systems were undersized, feed lines were too small and there was no dampening on the suction side of the pump.

There were also issues with feed line maintenance – lines weren’t cleaned out on a regular basis, resulting in solids from the fluid forming a thick cake on the bottom of the pipe, which further reduced its diameter.

Following the implementation of these recommendations, the contractor saw significant performance improvements from the drilling pumps. Consumables life was extended significantly, and module washes were reduced by nearly 85%.

Although pump age does not affect its susceptibility to cavitation, the age of the rig can. An older rig’s mud systems may not be equipped for the way pumps are run today – at maximum horsepower.

For the successful execution of your projects, it is important to find an appropriate company with a good track record. We help you in connecting with the top mud pump manufacturers and companies and get the best quotation.

We have designed affordable annual subscription plans which would help you get leads for your business. You can have a look at our pricing chart by clicking on this link: https://www.energydais.com/pricing/ . These plans are customized according to the specific needs and requirements of your business.

The most widely used mud pumps across the industry are Triplex Reciprocating Pumps. Their application has gained immense popularity with time because they are 30% lighter than duplex reciprocating pumps with relatively less operational cost. Moreover, through these pumps the discharge of mud is smooth and they are capable of moving large volume of mud at higher pressure.

Yes. We help you find the best mud pumps irrespective of your location. We simplify your search by connecting you with top mud pump manufacturers and mud pump companies in your location, according to your budget and business requirement.

Yes. We use third-party companies to provide best quotations for your shipment and inspection of manufactured goods. We make sure that you get quality products from the manufacturer at the best price.

The most widely used mud pumps across the industry are Triplex Reciprocating Pumps. Their application has gained immense popularity with time because they are 30% lighter than duplex reciprocating pumps with relatively less operational cost. Moreover, through these pumps the discharge of mud is smooth and they are capable of moving large volume of mud at higher pressure.

The different parts of a mud pump are Housing itself, Liner with packing, Cover plus packing, Piston and piston rod, Suction valve and discharge valve with their seats, Stuffing box (only in double-acting pumps), Gland (only in double-acting pumps), and Pulsation dampener. A mud pump also includes mud pump liner, mud pump piston, modules, hydraulic seat pullers along with other parts.

The wearing parts of a mud pump should be checked frequently for repairing needs or replacement. The wearing parts include pump casing, bearings, impeller, piston, liner, etc. Advanced anti-wear measures should be taken up to enhance the service life of the wearing parts. This can effectively bring down the project costs and improve production efficiency.

We keep your mud pumps running in first class condition – providing onsite inspections, repairs and complete overhaul as well as all associated parts.

Periodically we’ll inspect for wear, cracks and damage to critical components such as bearings, bull gear and pinion, conrods and crossheads. We’ll check the condition of your seals and other rubber goods and look for oil contamination. We’ll inspect your frame and ensure your pump is set up as per the manufacturer’s recommended tolerances, providing feedback and detailed reporting.

Where overhaul is required we’ll take care of complete disassembly, cleaning and NDT. Repairs will be made to machined components as necessary. Bearings, seals and other components will be replaced in line with our inspections. Motors will be overhauled, lube systems serviced and pulsation dampeners recertified. We’ll also check your fluid ends are in spec and can repair or replace. Your pump is then fully reassembled and commissioned.

We can do all of this on site or you can ship your crankshaft to a RigQuip location for workshop overhaul. Either way, we’ll work closely with your rig crew and provide first class start up support.

Mud pump refers to a machine that transports mud or water and other flushing fluid into the borehole during drilling. Mud pumps are an important part of drilling equipment, sometimes called sewage pumps and slurry pumps.

(1) Before operating the mud pump, it should be installed on a fixed foundation frame or foundation, and there must be no looseness; after installation, it must be carefully checked whether the joints are tight, the direction of electric rotation is correct, and the clutch is flexible. Reliable, the pipe connection is tight and reliable, the bottom valve is flexible and effective.

(2) In order to ensure the normal operation of the mud pump, the pump should be rotated by hand to make the piston try to make two reciprocating motions. It is determined that there is no obstruction in the machine and the line insulation is good, and the no-load movement can be performed. After the pump body starts to move, can not immediately increase the load, and then gradually increase after the mud pump is running normally.

(3) When the mud pump starts to operate, always pay attention to the sealing condition of each sealing device. If there is a bad seal, it should be adjusted in time. In order to ensure the normal use of the tie rod and the auxiliary rod, it is necessary to apply lubricating oil frequently; It is also necessary to frequently check the sediment content in the mud, and the sand content requirement cannot exceed 10%.

(4) If the mud pump needs to change speed during the operation, it should stop the pump and then shift the gear before starting the operation. It should not be directly changed during the running process. The mud pump with several speeds should be reliable in splash lubrication. During the operation, several speeds will be operated separately, and the time will be no less than 30 seconds.

(5) If the mud pump is abnormal during operation or if the water weight, the pressure is abnormal or the temperature is abnormally high, the pump should be stopped. In normal operation, if there is the no-load condition, stop the pump in time, if the pump is stopped for a long time. It is necessary to open all the water discharge holes, loosen the cylinder head, lift the bottom valve water release rod, and completely drain the mud and sand in the pump body and the pipeline. If it is not used for a long time, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the mud sand of each part. Grease, the lubricant in the crankcase is exhausted, in order to prevent rust, but also take anti-rust and anti-corrosion measures.

If the slurry pump is driven by a belt, please check the tension of the rope at least once a quarter. Too tight belts will cause damage to the motor bearing and once the bearing is broken the bearings will start to fail inside the pump. Belt that is operated when it is too loose will cause poor performance and cause slip damage to the belt.

If your dredge pump is using lubricant for cooling, please check it periodically to make sure there is no water or other impurities in the oil. If the pump seal remains stable, changing the oil periodically will increase the life of any pump.

Best performance is achieved by occasionally checking the out-of-wing clearance. Refer to instructions to check gaps appropriately. When checking the clearance, it is also necessary to check the impeller wear and other parts of the dredge pump.

For this problem, the best solution is to install pressure gauges and flowmeters on the discharge lines of the pumps. You can take the display pressure and multiply it by 2.31 to get the relative TDH (total dynamic head). You can then take that TDH along with the measured flow and see if your pump runs near the BEP (best efficiency point) on the pump’s baseline. If not, please contact your provider.

Temperature sensors are provided with our submersible pumps for engine protection. Each guide provided with the pump will outline how to connect and monitor the temperature sensors for the maximum life cycle.

If the engine is overheated, the sensors will automatically shut off and the pump will stop working until the engine cools down. If there is no sensor, or the sensor is not connected to the pump, there is a risk of engine fire.

Horizontal and vertical pump cantilever need to check the temperature of the bearing weekly while the pump is in operation. Use a temperature gun to check the bearing housing temperature closest to the bearing.

While most pump bearings run in the range of 140 to 170 degrees Fahrenheit, it is recommended that users never allow temperatures in excess of 200 degrees Fahrenheit (about 94 degrees Celsius). High bearing temperatures may be a sign of excessive lubrication or a problem with the bearing.

Proper vibration monitoring will provide the operating team with useful information that can increase MTBF (mean time between failures) and improve pump performance. Refer to the Hydraulic Institute’s vibration monitoring guide (American Hydraulic Institute) for vertical, horizontal and submersible pumps for appropriate limits.

Currently Thai Khuong Pump is representing the pump brand Schuro Slurry in Vietnam specializes in providing products with large capacity US brand mud pump (you can refer to the productshere).

If you have not yet selected a suitable mud pump product, or have any questions need advice or provide technical information, product prices. Let’s contact right with us.

The 2,200-hp mud pump for offshore applications is a single-acting reciprocating triplex mud pump designed for high fluid flow rates, even at low operating speeds, and with a long stroke design. These features reduce the number of load reversals in critical components and increase the life of fluid end parts.

The pump’s critical components are strategically placed to make maintenance and inspection far easier and safer. The two-piece, quick-release piston rod lets you remove the piston without disturbing the liner, minimizing downtime when you’re replacing fluid parts.

Distributor of engineered fluid handling pumps, packaged pumping systems, repairs, parts, & integrated pump control systems. Mud pumps, chiller/condenser pumps, plumbing pumps, boiler feed systems, in-line circulators, condensate systems, sump & sewage pumps, end suction pumps, submersible sump & sewage, non-clogs & grinders, self primers, packaged lift stations, variable speed pump systems, metering pumps, chemical injection systems, chemical mixing systems, peristaltic pumps for chemical feed, high viscous & shear sensitive fluids, self primers, stainless steel, trash pumps, hot oil pumps, vertical turbine pumps, sanitary pumps, marine pumps, industrial pumps, ANSI end suction, vertical cantilever, double suction, non-clogs, progressive cavity pumps, helical gear pumps, well pumps, lab pumps, hose pumps, control valves, check valves, air release valves, tanks, pressure vessels.

Our manufacturer Mud Pump skid is suitable for operations in rough, windy, damp and dusty oilfield conditions. Dependent upon customer horsepower requirements the engine sizes will vary.

All equipment is rated for operating at ambient temperatures up to +120 Deg F at 1200 ft altitude. The unit is built on heavy duty oilfield skid with lift frame. The control system is mounted in a stainless steel box on the side of the unit. The digital display provides all important engine and transmission data. Unit is also equipped with emergency kill function.

The fluid end of a duplex or triplex pump offers hundreds of opportunities for error. The results of an error in such a high-pressure system can mean (1) expensive downtime on the pump and maybe the entire rig, (2) expensive repair-replacement, and (3) possible injury or death of a crewman or a company man. Under the laws of nature, pump pistons and liners will wear, and there will be some corrosion and metallurgical imperfections, but the majority of pump failures are manmade. Theoretically, thorough training and retraining should avoid most mud pump problems. Realistically, a critical failure analysis during repair will be necessary to determine how to correct the failure. Telltale signs of trouble are distortion of piston rods, frayed piston polymer, discoloration, odor, hard-to-remove piston, rod cracks, pitting, total fracture, valve seat wear, and unsuitable external appearance.

F 1300 mud pump for oil drilling have features of solid and compact structure, small volume, good and reliable performance. It can meet the drilling requirements such as high pressure and big displacements whether in land drilling or off-shore drilling.

F 1300 mud pumps have a longer stroke and can be operated at a lower stroke, thus improved the water supplying performance effectively and extended the lifetime of mud pump fluid end parts greatly.

Prior check to the start of a mud pump for clear water inlet and outlet pipes, buttered front and rear bearings and a filled packing. The China mud pump should be equipped with a high-pressure water pump, which pumps water to the sealing fill with a pressure greater than that of the mud pump. As a protection to the fill, never turn off the water pump while the mud pump is in its working state. Otherwise, the sealing part is of immediate wear.

The service life of the mud pump depends on the clearance between the impeller and the guard plate. An unreasonable clearance is responsible for the vibration and the noise of the pump and the damage of overflowing parts. Therefore, when it comes to the impeller replacement, the clearance shall meet the requirements of the design drawing by adjusting screws on the rear bearing. Take the suction capacity of mud into account for the allowable suction range of the mud pump is determined by water transported.

The Construction Department shall have some professional person responsible for the maintenance and repair of the construction machinery. Regular check and maintenance of the mud pump and other machinery, such as the drilling mud pump parts, are useful for the early detection and a prompt solution.

Pay attention to the size of sediment particles, among which the large ones are prone to wear the vulnerable parts of the China mud pumpsuch as pump shells, bearings, impellers, and so on. Timely maintain the use and replace the damaged. Take advanced anti-wear measures to lengthen the service life of vulnerable parts, which can downturn the cost and up forward the efficiency. Meanwhile, keep backup vulnerable parts in stock in case of unexpected replacement needs.

If you run a mud rig, you have probably figured out that the mud pump is the heart of the rig. Without it, drilling stops. Keeping your pump in good shape is key to productivity. There are some tricks I have learned over the years to keeping a pump running well.

First, you need a baseline to know how well your pump is doing. When it’s freshly rebuilt, it will be at the top efficiency. An easy way to establish this efficiency is to pump through an orifice at a known rate with a known fluid. When I rig up, I hook my water truck to my pump and pump through my mixing hopper at idle. My hopper has a ½-inch nozzle in it, so at idle I see about 80 psi on the pump when it’s fresh. Since I’m pumping clear water at a known rate, I do this on every job.

As time goes on and I drill more hole, and the pump wears, I start seeing a decrease in my initial pressure — 75, then 70, then 65, etc. This tells me I better order parts. Funny thing is, I don’t usually notice it when drilling. After all, I am running it a lot faster, and it’s hard to tell the difference in a few gallons a minute until it really goes south. This method has saved me quite a bit on parts over the years. When the swabs wear they start to leak. This bypass pushes mud around the swab, against the liners, greatly accelerating wear. By changing the swab at the first sign of bypass, I am able to get at least three sets of swabs before I have to change liners. This saves money.

Before I figured this out, I would sometimes have to run swabs to complete failure. (I was just a hand then, so it wasn’t my rig.) When I tore the pump down to put in swabs, lo-and-behold, the liners were cut so badly that they had to be changed too. That is false economy. Clean mud helps too. A desander will pay for itself in pump parts quicker than you think, and make a better hole to boot. Pump rods and packing last longer if they are washed and lubricated. In the oilfield, we use a petroleum-based lube, but that it not a good idea in the water well business. I generally use water and dish soap. Sometimes it tends to foam too much, so I add a few tablets of an over the counter, anti-gas product, like Di-Gel or Gas-Ex, to cut the foaming.

Maintenance on the gear end of your pump is important, too. Maintenance is WAY cheaper than repair. The first, and most important, thing is clean oil. On a duplex pump, there is a packing gland called an oil-stop on the gear end of the rod. This is often overlooked because the pump pumps just as well with a bad oil-stop. But as soon as the fluid end packing starts leaking, it pumps mud and abrasive sand into the gear end. This is a recipe for disaster. Eventually, all gear ends start knocking. The driller should notice this, and start planning. A lot of times, a driller will change the oil and go to a higher viscosity oil, thinking this will help cushion the knock. Wrong. Most smaller duplex pumps are splash lubricated. Thicker oil does not splash as well, and actually starves the bearings of lubrication and accelerates wear. I use 85W90 in my pumps. A thicker 90W140 weight wears them out a lot quicker. You can improve the “climbing” ability of the oil with an additive, like Lucas, if you want. That seems to help.

Outside the pump, but still an important part of the system, is the pop-off, or pressure relief valve. When you plug the bit, or your brother-in-law closes the discharge valve on a running pump, something has to give. Without a good, tested pop-off, the part that fails will be hard to fix, expensive and probably hurt somebody. Pop-off valve are easily overlooked. If you pump cement through your rig pump, it should be a standard part of the cleanup procedure. Remove the shear pin and wash through the valve. In the old days, these valves were made to use a common nail as the shear pin, but now nails come in so many grades that they are no longer a reliable tool. Rated shear pins are available for this. In no case should you ever run an Allen wrench! They are hardened steel and will hurt somebody or destroy your pump.

One last thing that helps pump maintenance is a good pulsation dampener. It should be close to the pump discharge, properly sized and drained after every job. Bet you never thought of that one. If your pump discharge goes straight to the standpipe, when you finish the job your standpipe is still full of fluid. Eventually the pulsation dampener will water-log and become useless. This is hard on the gear end of the pump. Open a valve that drains it at the end of every job. It’ll make your pump run smoother and longer.

I’ve run into several instances of insufficient suction stabilization on rigs where a “standpipe” is installed off the suction manifold. The thought behind this design was to create a gas-over-fluid column for the reciprocating pump and eliminate cavitation.

When the standpipe is installed on the suction manifold’s deadhead side, there’s little opportunity to get fluid into all the cylinders to prevent cavitation. Also, the reciprocating pump and charge pump are not isolated.

The gas over fluid internal systems has limitations too. The standpipe loses compression due to gas being consumed by the drilling fluid. In the absence of gas, the standpipe becomes virtually defunct because gravity (14.7 psi) is the only force driving the cylinders’ fluid. Also, gas is rarely replenished or charged in the standpipe.

Installing a suction stabilizer from the suction manifold port supports the manifold’s capacity to pull adequate fluid and eliminates the chance of manifold fluid deficiency, which ultimately prevents cavitation.

Another benefit of installing a suction stabilizer is eliminating the negative energies in fluids caused by the water hammer effect from valves quickly closing and opening.

The suction stabilizer’s compressible feature is designed to absorb the negative energies and promote smooth fluid flow. As a result, pump isolation is achieved between the charge pump and the reciprocating pump.

The isolation eliminates pump chatter, and because the reciprocating pump’s negative energies never reach the charge pump, the pump’s expendable life is extended.

Investing in suction stabilizers will ensure your pumps operate consistently and efficiently. They can also prevent most challenges related to pressure surges or pulsations in the most difficult piping environments.