mud pump liner wash manufacturer

Drilling consumables such as mud pump systems and their components can drastically increase your uptime while reducing costs and health/safety/environmental (HSE) risks. To support your drilling needs, Forum’s patented P-Quip® mud pump system offers a single-source solution that integrates high-quality fluid end components for maximum longevity and performance.

With more than 20 years of successful operation in severe environments, P-Quip offers a proven track record for the lowest cost of ownership in the industry. As part of our commitment to quality, our mud pump parts use patented Banded Bore™ technology that significantly reduces stress concentrations and leads to longer module life.

Many things go into getting the most life out of your mud pump and its components — all important to extend the usage of this vital piece of equipment on an HDD jobsite. Some of the most important key points are covered below.

The most important thing you can do is service your pump, per the manufacturer’s requirements. We get plenty of pumps in the shop for service work that look like they have been abused for years without having basic maintenance,  such as regular oil changes. You wouldn’t dream of treating your personal vehicle like that, so why would you treat your pump like that.

Check the oil daily and change the oil regularly. If you find water or drilling mud contamination in the oil, change the oil as soon as possible. Failure to do so will most likely leave you a substantial bill to rebuild the gear end, which could have been avoided if proper maintenance procedures would have been followed. Water in the oil does not allow the oil to perform correctly, which will burn up your gear end. Drilling mud in your gear end will act as a lapping compound and will wear out all of the bearing surfaces in your pump. Either way it will be costly. The main reasons for having water or drilling mud in the gear end of your pump is because your pony rod packing is failing and/or you have let your liners and pistons get severely worn. Indication of this is fluid that should be contained inside the fluid end of your pump is now moving past your piston and spraying into the cradle of the pump, which forces its way past the pony rod packing. Pony rod packing is meant to keep the oil in the gear end and the liner wash fluid out of the gear end. Even with brand new packing, you can have water or drilling fluid enter the gear end if it is sprayed with sufficient force, because a piston or liner is worn out.

Monitor your oil and keep your pistons, liners and pony rod packing in good condition. If a liner starts to leak, identify the problem and change it as soon as possible.

There is also usually a valve on the inlet of the spray bar. This valve should be closed enough so that liner wash fluid does not spray all over the top of the pump and other components.

Liner wash fluid can be comprised of different fluids, but we recommend just using clean water. In extremely cold conditions, you can use RV antifreeze. The liner wash or rod wash system is usually a closed loop type of system, consisting of a tank, a small pump and a spray bar. The pump will move fluid from the tank through the spray bar, and onto the inside of the liner to cool the liner, preventing scorching. The fluid will then collect in the bottom of the cradle of the pump and drain back down into the collection tank below the cradle and repeat the cycle. It is important to have clean fluid no matter what fluid you use. If your liners are leaking and the tank is full of drilling fluid, you will not cool the liners properly — which will just make the situation worse. There is also usually a valve on the inlet of the spray bar. This valve should be closed enough so that liner wash fluid does not spray all over the top of the pump and other components. Ensure that the water is spraying inside the liner and that any overspray is not traveling out of the pump onto the ground or onto the pony rod packing where it could be pulled into the gear end. If the fluid is spraying out of the cradle area and falling onto the ground, it won’t be long before your liner wash tank is empty. It only takes a minute without the cooling fluid being sprayed before the liners become scorched. You will then need to replace the pistons and liners, which is an avoidable costly repair. Make a point to check the liner wash fluid level several times a day.

Liner wash fluid can be comprised of different fluids, but it is recommended to just using clean water. In extremely cold conditions, you can use RV antifreeze.

Drilling fluid — whether pumping drilling mud, straight water or some combination of fluid — needs to be clean. Clean meaning free of solids. If you are recycling your fluid, make sure you are using a quality mud recycling system and check the solids content often throughout the day to make sure the system is doing its job. A quality mud system being run correctly should be able to keep your solids content down to one quarter of 1 percent or lower. When filling your mud recycling system, be sure to screen the fluid coming into the tanks. If it is a mud recycling system, simply make sure the fluid is going over the scalping shaker with screens in the shaker. If using some other type of tank, use an inline filter or some other method of filtering. Pumping out of creeks, rivers, lakes and ponds can introduce plenty of solids into your tanks if you are not filtering this fluid. When obtaining water out of a fire hydrant, there can be a lot of sand in the line, so don’t assume it’s clean and ensure it’s filtered before use.

Cavitation is a whole other detailed discussion, but all triplex pumps have a minimum amount of suction pressure that is required to run properly. Make sure this suction pressure is maintained at all times or your pump may cavitate. If you run a pump that is cavitating, it will shorten the life of all fluid end expendables and, in severe cases, can lead to gear end and fluid end destruction. If the pump is experiencing cavitation issues, the problem must be identified and corrected immediately.

The long and the short of it is to use clean drilling fluid and you will extend the life of your pumps expendables and downhole tooling, and keep up with your maintenance on the gear end of your pump. Avoid pump cavitation at all times. Taking a few minutes a day to inspect and maintain your pump can save you downtime and costly repair bills.

These workhorses keep the mud flowing and your rig running. If theyʼre not working, youʼre not working. We make everything from the crankshaft to the liner seal to the skid. Each one is precision engineered for your rig so you can get back to turning.

Since 2001, TSC Manufacturing and Supply, LLC has been a leading global manufacturer and supplier of fluid end expendables, as well as mud pump spare parts for oilfield applications. Today, we continue to keep our proud tradition of excellence going, as we strive to better ourselves in order to better our customers" experience. Our global network of inventory locations provides unrivaled quality, customer service, on-time delivery, and unmatched technical integrity.

When it comes to mud pump fluid end expendable parts, TSC Manufacturing and Supply, LLC, has it all. TSC can, and will, match your needs, so that you won’t be lacking in anything. TSC mud pump liners are designed and manufactured to meet or exceed original equipment specification and API standards for almost all types of mud pumps in use today. With advanced technology, metallurgical control, and rigid inspection, we offer unmatched performance and durability, according to customer testimonies, in the most severe drilling conditions; both triplex and duplex liners are available in a wide range of sizes.

Mud pump is the "heart" of oil drilling system while mud pump liner an important disposable quick-wearing part of the fluid end. Therefore, the quality of mud pump liner will directly affect the normal operation of the drilling rig and thus the drilling costs.

Bi-metal liner is one of the most widely used types of liner. Our product combines the virtue of high strength forged steel shell and the advantage of anti-abrasive corrosion-resistant high-chromium sleeve together. The shell, including lip sleeve, is forged with high-quality carbon steel. The inner sleeve made of high-chromium cast iron is processed by centrifugal casting, the hardness of which is up to HRC 62 after heat treatment, could withstand a mud pressure of 7000 psi.

Ceramic liner is applied to well drilling operations for deep reservoir and complicated geologic situations, and is also used for offshore oil and gas development. The hardness of the working surface of the inner sleeve can reach HRC89 or more while the bending strength can be up to 1000-1200Mpa. Our ceramic liner is able to withstand a maximum pump pressure of 70Mpa. It is anti-abrasive, corrosion-resistant, heat-resistant, pressure-resistance, and is of high strength and high rigidity.

Piston assembly is one of the main parts of the fluid end of the mud pump. The volume of the working chamber alters with the reciprocating of piston, and thus realize a liquid suction and discharge through the pump valve. We are able to provide superior replaceable rubber piston and bonded piston.

Valve and seat make up a valve assembly that is the major component of the fluid end of the mud pump. It is also one of the most consumed vulnerable part during drilling.

Mystique Mud pump Coolant and Lubricant extends mud pump liner and piston life and provides internal lubrication and extra cooling to the coolant system of mud pumps. It extends the life of all liners, even ceramic. Mystique will not cause corrosion or rusting of iron, and is safe with all alloys. Recommened dilution rate of 12.5%. (25 gallons will treat a 200-gallon system.) For use on closed systems.

If you run a mud rig, you have probably figured out that the mud pump is the heart of the rig. Without it, drilling stops. Keeping your pump in good shape is key to productivity. There are some tricks I have learned over the years to keeping a pump running well.

First, you need a baseline to know how well your pump is doing. When it’s freshly rebuilt, it will be at the top efficiency. An easy way to establish this efficiency is to pump through an orifice at a known rate with a known fluid. When I rig up, I hook my water truck to my pump and pump through my mixing hopper at idle. My hopper has a ½-inch nozzle in it, so at idle I see about 80 psi on the pump when it’s fresh. Since I’m pumping clear water at a known rate, I do this on every job.

As time goes on and I drill more hole, and the pump wears, I start seeing a decrease in my initial pressure — 75, then 70, then 65, etc. This tells me I better order parts. Funny thing is, I don’t usually notice it when drilling. After all, I am running it a lot faster, and it’s hard to tell the difference in a few gallons a minute until it really goes south. This method has saved me quite a bit on parts over the years. When the swabs wear they start to leak. This bypass pushes mud around the swab, against the liners, greatly accelerating wear. By changing the swab at the first sign of bypass, I am able to get at least three sets of swabs before I have to change liners. This saves money.

Before I figured this out, I would sometimes have to run swabs to complete failure. (I was just a hand then, so it wasn’t my rig.) When I tore the pump down to put in swabs, lo-and-behold, the liners were cut so badly that they had to be changed too. That is false economy. Clean mud helps too. A desander will pay for itself in pump parts quicker than you think, and make a better hole to boot. Pump rods and packing last longer if they are washed and lubricated. In the oilfield, we use a petroleum-based lube, but that it not a good idea in the water well business. I generally use water and dish soap. Sometimes it tends to foam too much, so I add a few tablets of an over the counter, anti-gas product, like Di-Gel or Gas-Ex, to cut the foaming.

Maintenance on the gear end of your pump is important, too. Maintenance is WAY cheaper than repair. The first, and most important, thing is clean oil. On a duplex pump, there is a packing gland called an oil-stop on the gear end of the rod. This is often overlooked because the pump pumps just as well with a bad oil-stop. But as soon as the fluid end packing starts leaking, it pumps mud and abrasive sand into the gear end. This is a recipe for disaster. Eventually, all gear ends start knocking. The driller should notice this, and start planning. A lot of times, a driller will change the oil and go to a higher viscosity oil, thinking this will help cushion the knock. Wrong. Most smaller duplex pumps are splash lubricated. Thicker oil does not splash as well, and actually starves the bearings of lubrication and accelerates wear. I use 85W90 in my pumps. A thicker 90W140 weight wears them out a lot quicker. You can improve the “climbing” ability of the oil with an additive, like Lucas, if you want. That seems to help.

Outside the pump, but still an important part of the system, is the pop-off, or pressure relief valve. When you plug the bit, or your brother-in-law closes the discharge valve on a running pump, something has to give. Without a good, tested pop-off, the part that fails will be hard to fix, expensive and probably hurt somebody. Pop-off valve are easily overlooked. If you pump cement through your rig pump, it should be a standard part of the cleanup procedure. Remove the shear pin and wash through the valve. In the old days, these valves were made to use a common nail as the shear pin, but now nails come in so many grades that they are no longer a reliable tool. Rated shear pins are available for this. In no case should you ever run an Allen wrench! They are hardened steel and will hurt somebody or destroy your pump.

One last thing that helps pump maintenance is a good pulsation dampener. It should be close to the pump discharge, properly sized and drained after every job. Bet you never thought of that one. If your pump discharge goes straight to the standpipe, when you finish the job your standpipe is still full of fluid. Eventually the pulsation dampener will water-log and become useless. This is hard on the gear end of the pump. Open a valve that drains it at the end of every job. It’ll make your pump run smoother and longer.