mud pump liners free sample

Alibaba.com offers 1113 mud pump liner products. About 56% % of these are mud pump, 7%% are mining machine parts, and 3%% are other oil field equipments.

A wide variety of mud pump liner options are available to you, You can also choose from oil well, mud pump liner,As well as from carbon steel, chromium, and iron. and whether mud pump liner is moulding, bending, or punching.

The 2,200-hp mud pump for offshore applications is a single-acting reciprocating triplex mud pump designed for high fluid flow rates, even at low operating speeds, and with a long stroke design. These features reduce the number of load reversals in critical components and increase the life of fluid end parts.

The pump’s critical components are strategically placed to make maintenance and inspection far easier and safer. The two-piece, quick-release piston rod lets you remove the piston without disturbing the liner, minimizing downtime when you’re replacing fluid parts.

Mystique Mud pump Coolant and Lubricant extends mud pump liner and piston life and provides internal lubrication and extra cooling to the coolant system of mud pumps. It extends the life of all liners, even ceramic. Mystique will not cause corrosion or rusting of iron, and is safe with all alloys. Recommened dilution rate of 12.5%. (25 gallons will treat a 200-gallon system.) For use on closed systems.

If you run a mud rig, you have probably figured out that the mud pump is the heart of the rig. Without it, drilling stops. Keeping your pump in good shape is key to productivity. There are some tricks I have learned over the years to keeping a pump running well.

First, you need a baseline to know how well your pump is doing. When it’s freshly rebuilt, it will be at the top efficiency. An easy way to establish this efficiency is to pump through an orifice at a known rate with a known fluid. When I rig up, I hook my water truck to my pump and pump through my mixing hopper at idle. My hopper has a ½-inch nozzle in it, so at idle I see about 80 psi on the pump when it’s fresh. Since I’m pumping clear water at a known rate, I do this on every job.

As time goes on and I drill more hole, and the pump wears, I start seeing a decrease in my initial pressure — 75, then 70, then 65, etc. This tells me I better order parts. Funny thing is, I don’t usually notice it when drilling. After all, I am running it a lot faster, and it’s hard to tell the difference in a few gallons a minute until it really goes south. This method has saved me quite a bit on parts over the years. When the swabs wear they start to leak. This bypass pushes mud around the swab, against the liners, greatly accelerating wear. By changing the swab at the first sign of bypass, I am able to get at least three sets of swabs before I have to change liners. This saves money.

Before I figured this out, I would sometimes have to run swabs to complete failure. (I was just a hand then, so it wasn’t my rig.) When I tore the pump down to put in swabs, lo-and-behold, the liners were cut so badly that they had to be changed too. That is false economy. Clean mud helps too. A desander will pay for itself in pump parts quicker than you think, and make a better hole to boot. Pump rods and packing last longer if they are washed and lubricated. In the oilfield, we use a petroleum-based lube, but that it not a good idea in the water well business. I generally use water and dish soap. Sometimes it tends to foam too much, so I add a few tablets of an over the counter, anti-gas product, like Di-Gel or Gas-Ex, to cut the foaming.

Maintenance on the gear end of your pump is important, too. Maintenance is WAY cheaper than repair. The first, and most important, thing is clean oil. On a duplex pump, there is a packing gland called an oil-stop on the gear end of the rod. This is often overlooked because the pump pumps just as well with a bad oil-stop. But as soon as the fluid end packing starts leaking, it pumps mud and abrasive sand into the gear end. This is a recipe for disaster. Eventually, all gear ends start knocking. The driller should notice this, and start planning. A lot of times, a driller will change the oil and go to a higher viscosity oil, thinking this will help cushion the knock. Wrong. Most smaller duplex pumps are splash lubricated. Thicker oil does not splash as well, and actually starves the bearings of lubrication and accelerates wear. I use 85W90 in my pumps. A thicker 90W140 weight wears them out a lot quicker. You can improve the “climbing” ability of the oil with an additive, like Lucas, if you want. That seems to help.

Outside the pump, but still an important part of the system, is the pop-off, or pressure relief valve. When you plug the bit, or your brother-in-law closes the discharge valve on a running pump, something has to give. Without a good, tested pop-off, the part that fails will be hard to fix, expensive and probably hurt somebody. Pop-off valve are easily overlooked. If you pump cement through your rig pump, it should be a standard part of the cleanup procedure. Remove the shear pin and wash through the valve. In the old days, these valves were made to use a common nail as the shear pin, but now nails come in so many grades that they are no longer a reliable tool. Rated shear pins are available for this. In no case should you ever run an Allen wrench! They are hardened steel and will hurt somebody or destroy your pump.

One last thing that helps pump maintenance is a good pulsation dampener. It should be close to the pump discharge, properly sized and drained after every job. Bet you never thought of that one. If your pump discharge goes straight to the standpipe, when you finish the job your standpipe is still full of fluid. Eventually the pulsation dampener will water-log and become useless. This is hard on the gear end of the pump. Open a valve that drains it at the end of every job. It’ll make your pump run smoother and longer.

As usual, winter — or the slow season — is the time most drillers take the time to maintain their equipment in order to get ready for the peak season. One of the main parts that usually needs attention is the mud pump. Sometimes, it is just a set of swabs to bring it up to snuff, but often, tearing it down and inspecting the parts may reveal that other things need attention. For instance, liners. I can usually run three sets of swabs before it is time to change the liner. New liners and swabs last a good long time. The second set of swabs lasts less, and by the time you put in your third set of swabs, it’s time to order new liners. Probably rods too. It’s not always necessary to change pistons when you change swabs. Sometimes just the rubber needs to be changed, saving money. How do you tell? There is a small groove around the outside of the piston. As it wears, the groove will disappear and it’s time for a new piston.

The wear groove on a piston can be a good indicator of the general health of your pump. If the wear is pretty even all around, chances are the pump is in pretty good shape. But if you see wear on one side only, that is a clue to dig deeper. Uneven wear is a sign that the rods are not stroking at the exact angle that they were designed to, which is parallel to the liner. So, it’s time to look at the gear end. Or as some folks call it, “the expensive end.”

The wear groove on a piston can be a good indicator of the general health of your pump. If the wear is pretty even all around, chances are the pump is in pretty good shape. But if you see wear on one side only, that is a clue to dig deeper.

After you get the cover off the gear end, the first thing to look at will be the oil. It needs to be fairly clean, with no drill mud in it. Also look for metal. Some brass is to be expected, but if you put a magnet in the oil and come back later and it has more than a little metal on it, it gets more serious. The brass in the big end of the connecting rod is a wearable part. It is made to be replaced at intervals — usually years. The most common source of metal is from the bull and pinion gears. They transmit the power to the mud. If you look at the pinion gear closely, you will find that it wears faster than the bull gear. This is for two reasons. First, it is at the top of the pump and may not receive adequate lubrication. The second reason is wear. All the teeth on both the bull and pinion gears receive the same amount of wear, but the bull gear has many more teeth to spread the wear. That is why, with a well maintained pump, the bull gear will outlast the pinion gear three, four or even five times. Pinion gears aren’t too expensive and are fairly easy to change.

This process is fairly straightforward machine work, but over the years, I have discovered a trick that will bring a rebuild up to “better than new.” When you tear a pump down, did you ever notice that there is about 1-inch of liner on each end that has no wear? This is because the swab never gets to it. If it has wear closer to one end than the other, your rods are out of adjustment. The trick is to offset grind the journals. I usually offset mine about ¼-inch. This gives me a ½-inch increase in the stroke without weakening the gear end. This turns a 5x6 pump into a 5½x6 pump. More fluid equals better holes. I adjust the rods to the right length to keep from running out the end of the liner, and enjoy the benefits.

Other than age, the problem I have seen with journal wear is improper lubrication. Smaller pumps rely on splash lubrication. This means that as the crank strokes, the rods pick up oil and it lubricates the crank journals. If your gear end is full of drill mud due to bad packing, it’s going to eat your pump. If the oil is clean, but still shows crank wear, you need to look at the oil you are using.

Oil that is too thick will not be very well picked up and won’t find its way into the oil holes in the brass to lubricate the journals. I’ve seen drillers that, when their pump starts knocking, they switch to a heavier weight oil. This actually makes the problem worse. In my experience, factory specified gear end oil is designed for warmer climates. As you move north, it needs to be lighter to do its job. Several drillers I know in the Northern Tier and Canada run 30 weight in their pumps. In Georgia, I run 40W90. Seems to work well.

Lake Petro provides high quality Mud Pump Parts including Mud Pump Liners, Mud Pump Fluid End Module, piston, Valve and Seat etc. With more than 10 years of experience in the oil and gas industry, we are dedicated to help and support our loyal clients with the most cost-effective and quality Liners and Pistons. We also provide mud pump price and mud pump for sale.

We offer Liners with Ceramic (Zirconia and Aluminium oxide) and Steel (Metal and Bi-metal) materials for all common brands of the mud pump and triplex mud pump.

Bi-metal liners (double metal liners) are made of forged steel shell and wear-resistant sleeve of high chromium iron. In the production process, the size accuracy should be strictly controlled, which can ensure that they can be easily and stably installed. The inner sleeve with high finish and hardness is wear-resistant, corrosion-resistant and has a long service life. The bi-metal liners are suitable for a lot of bad working conditions. Its service life is more than 800 hours.

Ceramic Liners are made of a ceramic inner sleeve and a forged steel outer shell. The service life of ceramic liners is about 4000 to 10000 hours, the minimum time is at least 2000 hours, which is a lot more than bi-metal liners. Because of the phase transformation toughen technology, the ceramic liners have the features of wear-resistance, erosion-resistance, high-pressure-resistance, high hardness and strength. Zirconia type and Alumina type are common type of ceramic sleeve. Compared with Alumina type, Zirconia type liners have better toughness properties and a much longer service life. Piston wear and water consumption for lubrication can be reduced as well.

All Lake Petro liner products are interchangeable with O.E.M. products. Meanwhile, we provide customized Liners according to drawings. Our liners, also with our other mud pump spares, are supplied for use in Honghua, F-Series, Bomco, Emsco and National lines of triplex drilling pumps. Let Lake Petro be your one-stop shop for your whole fleet of pumps. Please refer to “Suitable Pump Models” Lable for more details.

Responsible excellent and fantastic credit rating standing are our principles, which will help us at a top-ranking position. Adhering towards the tenet of "quality initial, buyer supreme" for Cyclone Separator, Pump Parts Rear Liner Plate, Hydrocyclone Poly, To achieve reciprocal advantages, our company is widely boosting our tactics of globalization in terms of communication with overseas customers, fast delivery, the best quality and long-term cooperation.

Slurry pump throat bush is one of wet parts in horizontal slurry pump which directs slurries to impeller, it is suction side liner which is connected with cover plate.

Throat bush is common in bigger pumps, because throat bush and volute liner are normally in one solid piece in small pumps. The design of slurry pump throat bush is based on cost effective in manufacturing and operation.

* YAAO® is a registered trademark and does not represent or is not in any way affiliated with Warman® of Weir Minerals Group. All names, numbers, symbols and descriptions are used for reference purpose only and do not imply that any pumps or parts listed is the product of Warman Pumps.

Our firm sticks to the basic principle of "Quality is the life of your company, and status will be the soul of it" for China High Quality for Mud Pump Liner - AH Slurry Pump Rubber THROAT BUSH – YAAO factory and suppliers | YAAO , The product will supply to all over the world, such as: Johannesburg, belarus, United Kingdom, Our product quality is one of the major concerns and has been produced to meet the customer"s standards. "Customer services and relationship" is another important area which we understand good communication and relationships with our customers is the most significant power to run it as a long term business.

Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Landlord shall furnish to the Premises heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (“HVAC”) in accordance with the Design Standards set forth in Exhibit D during Ordinary Business Hours. Landlord shall have access to all air-cooling, fan, ventilating and machine rooms and electrical closets and all other mechanical installations of Landlord (collectively, “Mechanical Installations”), and Tenant shall not construct partitions or other obstructions which may interfere with Landlord’s access thereto or the moving of Landlord’s equipment to and from the Mechanical Installations. No Tenant Party shall at any time enter the Mechanical Installations or tamper with, adjust, or otherwise affect such Mechanical Installations. Landlord shall not be responsible if the HVAC System fails to provide cooled or heated air, as the case may be, to the Premises in accordance with the Design Standards by reason of (i) any equipment installed by, for or on behalf of Tenant, which has an electrical load in excess of the average electrical load and human occupancy factors for the HVAC System as designed, or (ii) any rearrangement of partitioning or other Alterations made or performed by, for or on behalf of Tenant. Tenant shall install, if missing, blinds or shades on all windows, which blinds and shades shall be subject to Landlord’s approval, and shall keep operable windows in the Premises closed, and lower the blinds when necessary because of the sun’s position, whenever the HVAC System is in operation or as and when required by any Requirement. Tenant shall cooperate with Landlord and shall abide by the rules and regulations which Landlord may reasonably prescribe for the proper functioning and protection of the HVAC System. Tenant acknowledges that the server room in the Premises currently has three heat pumps installed, being two 4-ton units, and one 2.5-ton unit (the “Existing Heat Pumps”). The 2.5-ton unit is currently connected and operational. Tenant shall determine whether it is satisfied with the condition of the Existing Heat Pumps and Landlord shall not have any responsibility or liability for the condition, operation, maintenance, repair or replacement of the Existing Heat Pumps. Tenant may operate the Existing Heat Pumps. Tenant shall be responsible for, and pay directly for, all necessary maintenance and repairs to the Existing Heat Pumps. Tenant shall reimburse Landlord monthly for the cost of all utility services used to operate the Existing Heat Pumps within 10 Business Days after receipt of Landlord’s invoice for such amount. Landlord may measure Tenant’s usage of such utility services by either a sub-meter or by other reasonable methods such as by temporary check meters or by survey. Tenant, at its cost, may replace the Existing Heat Pumps with one or more new heat pumps, provided, however, that the capacity of such replacement heat pump(s) shall not exceed the 10.5-ton capacity cooling capacity of the Existing Heat Pumps.

Table 114. Dezhou L&A Petroleum Machinery Co., Ltd Mud Pump Liner Sales (K Units), Revenue (US$ Million), Price (US$/Unit) and Gross Margin (2017-2022)

Table 134. Dongying Lake Petroleum Technology CO., Ltd Mud Pump Liner Sales (K Units), Revenue (US$ Million), Price (US$/Unit) and Gross Margin (2017-2022)