mud pump replacement motors repair free sample

The 2,200-hp mud pump for offshore applications is a single-acting reciprocating triplex mud pump designed for high fluid flow rates, even at low operating speeds, and with a long stroke design. These features reduce the number of load reversals in critical components and increase the life of fluid end parts.

The pump’s critical components are strategically placed to make maintenance and inspection far easier and safer. The two-piece, quick-release piston rod lets you remove the piston without disturbing the liner, minimizing downtime when you’re replacing fluid parts.

Mud-Pump Gear Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Humble Industries, Inc. is an independent manufacturer of replacement parts. Humble Ind. is neither a licensee, nor is it affiliated with any of the original equipment manufacturers named above. The manufacturers names or trademarks used herein are solely for identification purposes and are not intended by Humble Ind. to cause confusion as to the source, sponsorship, or quality of the parts manufactured by Humble Ind. The original manufacturers named above and throughout this website do not sponsor, promote, warranty or endorse Humble Ind. products.

There are several questions that need to be addressed before we can move forward on this topic: How hard is the rock? Do we know what type of rock it is? What rig are you considering to use? How much mud pump volume (gpm) does your pump produce? How long is the bore? These are the opening questions that if answers are known, typically produce additional questions. If the rock has been tested to be 15,000 psi, I can move to the next question, but often all that is available is blow counts from a core sample run in the area. If that’s the case, I need to make some educated assumptions and move on. Looking at the type of rock gives me an indication of the potential wear on the motor — for example, shale is far more forgiving than sandstone. My customer now tells me he plans on using an 80,000-lb drill with a 250-gpm mud pump and the bore is 800 ft long. I now have enough information to make a recommendation for a mud motor for this project. Rock hardness is 15,000 psi in strength. The formation has been determined to be shale and limestone. We have an 80,000-lb drill with 250-gpm pump. Based on this information I can recommend a 4-3/4-in. mud motor.

This mud motor, as all manufactured motors do, has a specific flow range it operates in. For this size, it is 150 to 250 gpm. We try to optimize the flow rate to the motor to utilize its optimum torque output and rotation at the bit box. This should produce the best penetration rates and steerability in the rock — two things we always want to maximize (within the limits of hole cleaning ability). Other considerations are drill pipe outer diameter (OD). We hope to have the pipe similar in OD as the motor, which should mean similar mechanical limitations.

Now we can look at a bit size. As with the recommended flow range, there is a recommended bit size (OD) range. For a 4-3/4-in. mud motor, it is 6 to 7-7/8 in. Most of the time we like to see a bit in the 6-½- to 6-¾-in. size used. This will give the motor enough annulus area to properly reside in and also allow it to have the ability to properly steer. Oversized bits, for example an 8-½-in. bit on a 4-¾-in. mud motor, will not allow the motor to steer. The motor can’t contact the inner diameter of the bore hole, which eliminates the fulcrum effect of the bend in the mud motor.

If run within the operations manual specifications, the mud motor should perform within the published parameters up to 100 to 125 hours of drilling. At that time, it is recommended to be returned to the supplier for service and inspection. Typically at that time, we see the bearings out of tolerance and needing replaced. Obviously this is what we like to see but in our industry we face situations daily that can affect operations on the jobsite. We see many motors returned with 150-plus hours on them and usually these additional hours show on the repair bill. The internal workings of the transmission section are usually affected by the added hours, which will increase repair cost.

The most expensive replacement on the mud motor is the power section. This is comprised of the stator and rotor. The rotor is typically chrome-plated steel and has one less lobe than the stator, which its inner diameter is made of a highly engineered rubber compound. The drilling mud is pumped through the rotor-stator assembly, creating torque and rotation at the drill bit. This means the drilling mud needs to be clean of solids and sand. If it is not clean, it will prematurely wear the stator and the rotor, increasing the fit between the two, which dramatically reduces the pressure and power this section is designed to produce.

We once had a customer who bought a 6-¾-in. mud motor and after a month, I called to check to see if it needed service. I was told it was doing great and was in the hole on its third bore. I reminded the customer that service of the motor was critical to the overall life of the tool, but apparently it fell on deaf hears. Six months later, the customer called and said he was sending it in for service. I asked if he knew how many hours they had on it — I was told in excess of 750! Needless to say, the tool was retired and the rotor was made into a front bumper for one of their work trucks.

Service the motor every 100 to 125 hours of use and the overall life of the motor will be extended. Minimize motor stalls — this is when the motor stops turning internally while the mud pump is still pumping mud through it. After a motor is used on a job and doesn’t require service, we recommend that fresh water be pumped through it to flush out the drilling mud which will dry out and can cause damage when the motor is reused.

As long as a rig has the required gpm and pressure rating — I can answer a qualified yes. Let’s assume a contractor has a rig with a pump rated at 150 gpm by its manufacturer. This rating is based on pumping water with a new pump. So realistically, we have a pump that will probably pump mud at 100 to 120 gpm. This is enough flow to power a 3-½-in. mud motor in its mid flow range requirements. At that flow rate, we can check the motor’s performance curve and find we have around 550 ft-lbs of torque at 150 rpm. This will work well enough in rock up to 15,000 psi. But if the project is in rock that is 25,000 psi, it will dramatically reduce the penetration rate, lowering the ROP to a point that it becomes economically not feasible. In this case, the contractor would need a larger rig with a bigger mud pump to power a larger mud motor to overcome the compressive strength of the rock.

Another issue to consider when using a mud motor is the contractor’s ability to recycle and clean his drilling mud. If you are pumping 100 gpm, you will drain a 1,000 gal mud mixing system in 10 minutes, an obvious reason to recycle drilling mud.

Probably the most common mistake is what is done when a motor stalls out. A stall-out occurs when the bit stops turning while pumping. We have three mud pump pressure readings we monitor while using a mud motor. The first is the off bottom pump pressure reading; the second is the on bottom pump pressure reading; the third is the stall pressure reading.

Let’s say our contractor has an off bottom pressure reading of 500 psi and an on bottom reading of 750 psi. While drilling, he applies too much weight on the bit, causing it to stop turning. The pressure now reads 825 psi. At this point most drillers pull the motor off bottom and resume drilling. This method will send reactive torque up the drill string and could cause the motor or drill pipe to unscrew. The correct action to take when a motor stalls is to turn the pump off, and then pull the motor off bottom. Then, restart the pump and advance to bottom.

Another area of concern is the fact that you are doing your locating behind the mud motor. You have your drill bit, mud motor and crossover sub, then your steering system. It doesn’t matter if you are using a wireline steering tool or a walkover system — if the rig is using a 4-¾-in. mud motor, your steering system is 20 ft behind the drill bit. This usually causes the driller to overreact and drill an S-curved pilot hole. He sees he is heading right of centerline so he steers left, then he sees he is heading left so he steers right so on and so on. This situation will correct itself as the operator becomes used to drilling with a mud motor.

When things are running smoothly it’s easy to overlook common maintenance chores and rationalize that it’s not worth the time to regularly inspect and replace parts. But nothing could be farther from the truth. The reality is that most facilities have several pumps performing a variety of functions that are integral to the successful operation of the plant. If a pump malfunctions it can be the cause of an entire plant shut down.

Pumps are the cogs in the wheel that keep your facility functioning efficiently, whether they are used for manufacturing processes, HVAC, or water treatment. To keep pumps running properly, a regular maintenance schedule should be implemented and followed.

Consult the original manufacturer’s guidelines. Consider the timing to schedule your maintenance. Will lines or pumps have to be disabled? Select a time when the system is down and use common sense when deciding the time and frequency.

Get to know your system and make a point to observe your pump while it is still running. Make note of leaks, unusual sounds or vibrations and unusual odors.

Lubricate the motor and pump bearing per manufacturer’s guidelines. Be sure not to over lubricate. More bearing damage occurs as a result of over greasing than under greasing. If the bearing has a vent cap, remove the cap and run the pump for 30 minutes before reinstalling cap. This will allow excess grease to work its way out of the bearing.

Many pump manufacturers advise against the use of oil, petroleum jelly or other petroleum or silicon based products for elastomer seal lubrication. Using such products could cause seal failure due to swelling of the elastomer. P-80 rubber lubricants are temporary, once dry the lubrication ceases and parts stay in place. Additionally, these lubricants will not reactivate in the presence of water and they will not dry out rubber parts.

Keep your facilities running smoothly. Try P-80® temporary rubber assembly lubricants for your pump maintenance needs. Visit www.ipcol.com to speak with a specialist and request a sample for testing.

The Liberty Process LL8 Progressive Cavity Pump is ideal for abrasive pumping applications such as drilling fluids with sand and grit common in fracking operations. As a Mud Pump, the LL8 Series is a popular model on many mobile pumping rigs in use today. Replacement mud pump parts are available as well from our stock and work on other popular manufacturers models.

LL8 parts are direct drop in aftermarket replacements that work with the *Moyno® L8 series, the *Tarby® TL8 series and *Continental® CL8 Series*. The Liberty unit is a low-cost, maintenance free, dependable drop-in replacement progressive cavity unit.

The Liberty LL8 is a standard flanged pump design manufactured with cast iron or 316 stainless steel pump casings designed in 1, 2, and 3 stages for 75, 150 and 225 psi discharge pressures and a flow rate of 18 up to 100 GPM.

The LL8 is a modular design with simple hardened pinned joint drive assembly. LL8 Rotors are typically hardened tool steel or 316 stainless steel with a hard chrome plating for long life in abrasive pumping applications.

All other wetted parts are either carbon steel or 316 stainless steel. Stators are available in many elastomer materials such as Buna Nitrile, Natural Rubber, EPDM and Viton. The standard seal design is a set of gland packing with a lantern ring set and flush connections. Mechanical seal options for this progressive cavity pump are readily available.

The LL8 represents one of the most popular progressive cavity pumps available for the transport of drilling mud with easily replaceable in-stock parts.

A typical centrifugal pumpis constructed of a rotary pump shaft with one or more impellers attached. As the impellers rotate in sync, the pump converts enough energy to move fluids in the desired direction.

Centrifugal pumpscan be radial or axial, with radial pumps pushing energy through downstream piping and axial pumps generating asuction liftingeffect with the impellers. Either are simple enough processes, but something could go wrong. When that does, you’ll need to troubleshoot and fix the problem.

If yourcentrifugal pumpstops working as it should, is it time to replace it or call in a professional? Neither may be necessary if you can figure out the problem and solve it independently. Here are some of the most commoncentrifugal pump problemsand solutions.

Impellers rotating in the wrong direction is a common problem withcentrifugal pumps. If the impellers turn the wrong way, they could cause severe damage to the pump. When wiring power to the pump’s motor, it’s critical to verify which way the motor turns. You can “bump start” the motor to do this.

Another common problem with these types ofcentrifugal pumpsis leakage. When materials escape the pump and create a mess, this is a serious issue. Excessive temperature, corrosion, or pressure can loosen the joints and seals, allowing fluid and debris to escape.

But there may be a simple fix. Stopping your leaky pump could be as easy as tightening the fasteners surrounding the joints. In other cases, however, you may need to replace a gasket or mechanical seal.

There is probably something wrong with your pump if it takes too long to re-prime. The most common cause of a slow re-priming pump is excessive clearance, leading to inefficiency and overheating. But other possible reasons exist as well, such as a leaking gasket, a clogged recirculation port, or a worn-out volute.

Pump seizure can happen for several reasons, including foreign objects entering the pump, low flow operation, and off-design conditions. Inspect the pump for foreign objects and debris first and then check the impellers and power source.

When you begin to see the pump vibrating too much or notice usual noises coming from the device, this could signify a serious issue. Often, vibrations and noises tell you that you have failed bearings or a foreign object stuck inside the pump.

Start with the most straightforward thing first and look for debris or foreign objects. When noises and vibrations occur together, the pump could be experiencing cavitation and may need to be examined by a professional.

Debris in your pump can create havoc with many of its parts and systems. If your pump isn’t pumping or is less efficient than you want, check for a cloggedsuction pipeor debris in the impeller.

Incentrifugal pumps, overloading occurs when the driving motor draws excess current, which results in greater than normal power consumption. Pumps should start with a minimum load with discharge valves open. If the power drawn by the pump increases too much, it may ultimately lead to tripping or overloading of the motor. Some of the most common causes of pump driver overload include:

If you notice that the pump isn’t operating efficiently anymore, meaning it’s taking too long for it to pump out fluid, some of the most common causes of this problem include the following.

If yourcentrifugal pumphas become corroded, it could be due to a chemical compatibility issue. The wetted parts of a pump can be made from a variety of materials — ceramics, metals, thermoplastics, and elastomers. The resistance of these parts to various liquids, chemicals, and temperatures will vary. So you must select a pump designed with your particular application in mind.

Centrifugal pumpsshould not feel hot to the touch. When they do, this is a sign of trouble and something you want to address immediately. There may be a blockage in the suction strainer, the recirculation port, the valve, or the open-ended discharge line. The pump will be less efficient if you ignore the issue and may eventually fail.

There is a wide range ofcentrifugal pumpsavailable that will give your operation the fluid-transfer services it needs over the long term. These are excellent, low-cost solutions for most high-capacity, low-pressure situations. But if yourcentrifugal pumpisn’t operating efficiently or at all, this list of common problems may help you troubleshoot the issue.

If you cannot troubleshoot the issue with yourcentrifugal pumpor don’t feel comfortable handling it yourself, we haveresourcesto help you. If you aren’t currently experiencing any problems with yourcentrifugal pump, then it is a great time to look intopreventative maintenance to ensure issues don’t arise in the future.