oem mud pump casting parts free sample

Mud-Pump Gear Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Sunbo slurry pump manufactures high quality heavy-duty horizontal slurry pumps, vertical slurry pumps, replacement pump parts, and provides pump services to a wide array of markets worldwide.we serve global industries that supply valuable raw materials to the marketplace with trustworthy and reliable pumps, parts, and service. We exist to provide unmatched engineering excellence, ...

Sunbo Pump supports the success of our customers and representatives by delivering quality slurry pumps and parts in a timely and conscientious manner, and maintaining a trustworthy and courteous relationship with each partners.

Henan Yuanfei is one famous company in China which specialized in various metal casting products with over 10 years experience, located in China.It covers a comprehensive range of forging, stamping, sand casting, investment casting, die casting and machining and was widely used in Agriculture machinery, Motor Vehicle, Architecture,Railway and Engineering We have a complete line of mold making, casting production, machining and assembly to meet customer requirements for finished parts. For our customers we have designed and manufactured over hundreds sets of moulds these years. Most of our products have exported to USA, Germany, Italy, U.K., Belgium , Finland and so on.

Our company undertakes customized processing services (OEM) with drawings and samples. At present, we have cooperated with many foreign companies to provide wear-resistant castings for customers at home and abroad.

If your Honda vehicle came complete with a set of mud guards already installed, you appreciate that they"re far more than just a stylish exterior accessory. They serve to keep your car, van, pickup, or SUV pristine and corrosion-free.

You see, as you drive your tires pick up and discard water and debris on even the smoothest of roads. If you travel less than ideal roads, you"re just adding to the trouble. While some of that mud, gravel, water, and stones gets cast off to the side, much of it finds its way into your wheel wells and onto your vehicle"s undercarriage. That can make it hard for your wheels to fully turn and leads to corrosion and rust under your vehicle.

Splash guards are generally used for cars, and are typically made of plastic and mounted directly onto the wheel wells. Mud guards, or mud flaps, are rubberized and better able to withstand abuse. Those are usually found on SUVs, vans, and pickups. Whichever type your Honda vehicle takes is detailed in your owner"s manual. The genuine Honda mud guards stocked in our online auto parts inventory are designed to fit your model"s dimensions, so you can easily add them without need for customization. Buy now and we"ll ship your order right to your door!

Adjust or replace these bearings at first sign of wear. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted at first signs of looseness.. You will note on series 3400, 3800, 3500, and 3900 pumps, that the shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting, although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings, and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on the bolts.

To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump, so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. Oil clearance should be checked with Plastigage (available in most parts stores). Wipe crankshaft journal clean of any oil, place a strip of Plastigage on the crankshaft journal and tighten rod cap to the proper torque value. Once tightened, remove rod cap and measure oil clearance with scale on Plastigage package. See oil clearance chart. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Rotate the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another 0.005" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted.

Torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper value. Again rotate the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should be ready for operation.

If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, care must-be taken: not to over-tighten the bearings, since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump. When bearings are adjusted by this method, watch carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.

It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly.

Inspect connecting rod bearings and adjust as necessary every six months or when crankcase lubricant is changed. The bearings in the crank end are babbitt lined steel shells, adjustable for wear by removing shims and easily replaced when completely worn. These bearings should be watched closely and adjusted to compensate for wear. You will note that shims do not completely fill the outer gap between rod and cap casting although the connecting rod bolts are tight. This is because the faces of the shell bearings project slightly beyond the faces of the rod and cap castings and the shims are gripped only between the faces of the bearing halves. Do not try to close this outer gap by tightening the connecting rod bolt as it will put an excessive strain on them.

To check for wear, place a wrench on the top connecting rod bolt and shake the rod parallel to the crankshaft. (The pressure must be relieved from the liquid end of the pump so that the pump"s mechanism is free to move.) If the rod bearing moves without resistance, the bearing may be too loose and need adjusting. If the bearing does need adjusting, remove shims until you cannot shake the rod, then add .005" shims one at a time until there is a little side movement. Be sure to torque rod bolt nuts to proper value for each adjustment. (NOTE: If you are making this adjustment after having had the crossheads out, be sure that the oil holes in the rod are pointing up. The "up" side is indicated by matching numbers stamped on the cap and rod at the split between them. These numbers should be the same on each rod and should be on the top side of the crankshaft.) Turn the shaft by hand and if there is any hard drag or tight spots in the bearing, add another .005"" shim. After this bearing is properly adjusted, loosen bolts a few turns and repeat the above operation on the other bearings. After all bearings have been adjusted, torque all connecting rod bolt nuts back to proper amount. Again turn the pump by hand to check for excessive drag and tight spots. If none, the pump should then be ready for operation.

If the pump cannot be rotated by hand due to the drive being enclosed, the bearings may be completely adjusted by shaking the bearing on the shaft as stated above. Care must be taken not to over-tighten the bearings since they cannot be checked by rotating the pump by hand. When bearings are adjusted by this method, they must be watched carefully for overheating when the pump is put into operation.

Alternatively, plastic gauge strips, found in most parts stores may be used to adjust these bearings. It is usually better to have a bearing a little too loose than too tight. A slightly loose bearing will cause very little trouble because of the slow operating speeds of the pump, but a tight bearing will overheat and the babbitt may melt or pull. with experience, an operator can tell by feel when the bearings are properly adjusted. Normal precautions must be taken to insure cleanliness of parts upon their assembly. All wrenches used in adjusting these bearings are standard wrenches.

Identifying your pump is the first step in replacing it or knowing which repair parts match your pump model. Many customers call us looking to replace their pump but they’re not sure which pump model they have or even who their pump’s manufacturer is. Luckily, your pump has all this information printed on it.

To identify the model of your pump, you need to know the part number. Part numbers, also sometimes referred to as model numbers, can be found on your pump’s tag. A pump tag is a small rectangular plate that displays all the basic information about your pump. Besides a pump’s part number, pump tags can include information like the gallons per minute, total dynamic head, and max working temperature of a pump. The information included on the tag is going to depend on the manufacturer of the pump.

Different types of pumps have their tags in different places. Finding the pump tag is sometimes half the battle. They are usually located on the volute of the pump (or the main body of the pump- the part that’s not the motor). Once you find your pump’s tag, the next step is, understanding what the information on that tag means exactly. If you can’t find your pump’s tag or if the numbers have faded or are hard to read, consult your owner’s manual or other paperwork that came with your product. Most product manuals will indicate where to find the model number.

Different manufacturers label their pumps differently. For example, some of the information printed on the Grundfos tag below might not appear on another brand’s pump or it can be referred to differently. This can be confusing at first so it helps to know who your pump’s manufacturer is and how they refer to their models. Some manufacturers print their logo on the pump.

You might see another similar looking plate on your pump. This is the pump’s motor tag. The motor tag gives information about the motor attached to the pump such as volts and phases. While the pump tag is usually located on the pump’s volute, the motor tag is located on the pump’s motor.

If the tag is missing, try to locate the casting number. Casting numbers are stamped directly in the steel/iron or bronze of the pump. These numbers are a good source of information about the unit.

This is a Bell & Gossett in-line circulator pump tag. The pump tags for these B&G circulators are generally easy to spot on the volute on the pump. On this Bell & Gossett In-Line Circulator pump, we can see the part number is

This next pump is a Zoeller sewage pump. The silver tag is located on the top of the pump. This tag gives us a little more information about the pump.

Nothing in life lasts forever. Luckily PumpProducts.com stocks a wide variety of repair parts for all the most trusted brands in the industry. If you’re not sure of your pump’s manufacturer, series, model number, or can’t find the parts you’re looking for, you can1-800-429-0800 and they’ll help you identify your pump and get you the parts you need. PumpProducts.com is your pump, parts, accessories and motor one-stop-shop.