where do yoh put hoses on mud pump brands

Mud pump is one of the most critical equipment on the rig; therefore personnel on the rig must have good understanding about it. We’ve tried to find the good training about it but it is very difficult to find until we’ve seen this VDO training and it is a fantastic VDO training about the basic of mud pumps used in the oilfield. Total length of this VDO is about thirteen minutes and it is worth to watch it. You will learn about it so quickly. Additionally, we also add the full detailed transcripts which will acceleate the learning curve of learners.

Powerful mud pumps pick up mud from the suction tank and circulate the mud down hole, out the bit and back to the surface. Although rigs usually have two mud pumps and sometimes three or four, normally they use only one at a time. The others are mainly used as backup just in case one fails. Sometimes however the rig crew may compound the pumps, that is, they may use three or four pumps at the same time to move large volumes of mud when required.

Rigs use one of two types of mud pumps, Triplex pumps or Duplex pumps. Triplex pumps have three pistons that move back-and-forth in liners. Duplex pumps have two pistons move back and forth in liners.

Triplex pumps have many advantages they weight 30% less than a duplex of equal horsepower or kilowatts. The lighter weight parts are easier to handle and therefore easier to maintain. The other advantages include;

• One of the more important advantages of triplex over duplex pumps, is that they can move large volumes of mud at the higher pressure is required for modern deep hole drilling.

Triplex pumps are gradually phasing out duplex units. In a triplex pump, the pistons discharge mud only when they move forward in the liner. Then, when they moved back they draw in mud on the same side of the piston. Because of this, they are also called “single acting.” Single acting triplex pumps, pump mud at a relatively high speeds. Input horsepower ranges from 220 to 2200 or 164 to 1641 kW. Large pumps can pump over 1100 gallons per minute, over 4000 L per minute. Some big pumps have a maximum rated pressure of over 7000 psi over 50,000 kPa with 5 inch/127 mm liners.

Here is a schematic of a triplex pump. It has three pistons each moving in its own liner. It also has three intake valves and three discharge valves. It also has a pulsation dampener in the discharge line.

Look at the piston at left, it has just completed pushing mud out of the liner through the open discharge valve. The piston is at its maximum point of forward travel. The other two pistons are at other positions in their travel and are also pumping mud. But for now, concentrate on the left one to understand how the pump works. The left piston has completed its backstroke drawing in mud through the open intake valve. As the piston moved back it instead of the intake valve off its seat and drew mud in. A strong spring holds the discharge above closed. The left piston has moved forward pushing mud through the now open discharge valve. A strong spring holds the intake valve closed. They left piston has completed its forward stroke they form the length of the liner completely discharging the mud from it. All three pistons work together to keep a continuous flow of mud coming into and out of the pump.

Crewmembers can change the liners and pistons. Not only can they replace worn out ones, they can also install different sizes. Generally they use large liners and pistons when the pump needs to move large volumes of mud at relatively low pressure. They use a small liners and pistons when the pump needs to move smaller volumes of mud at a relatively high pressure.

In a duplex pump, pistons discharge mud on one side of the piston and at the same time, take in mud on the other side. Notice the top piston and the liner. As the piston moves forward, it discharges mud on one side as it draws in mud on the other then as it moves back, it discharges mud on the other side and draws in mud on the side it at had earlier discharge it. Duplex pumps are therefore double acting.

Double acting pumps move more mud on a single stroke than a triplex. However, because of they are double acting they have a seal around the piston rod. This seal keeps them from moving as fast as a triplex. Input horsepower ranges from 190 to 1790 hp or from 142 to 1335 kW. The largest pumps maximum rated working pressure is about 5000 psi, almost 35,000 kPa with 6 inch/152 mm linings.

A mud pump has a fluid end, our end and intake and the discharge valves. The fluid end of the pump contains the pistons with liners which take in or discharge the fluid or mud. The pump pistons draw in mud through the intake valves and push mud out through the discharge valves.

The power end houses the large crankshaft and gear assembly that moves the piston assemblies on the fluid end. Pumps are powered by a pump motor. Large modern diesel/electric rigs use powerful electric motors to drive the pump. Mechanical rigs use chain drives or power bands (belts) from the rig’s engines and compounds to drive the pump.

A pulsation dampener connected to the pump’s discharge line smooths out surges created by the pistons as they discharge mud. This is a standard bladder type dampener. The bladder and the dampener body, separates pressurized nitrogen gas above from mud below. The bladder is made from synthetic rubber and is flexible. When mud discharge pressure presses against the bottom of the bladder, nitrogen pressure above the bladder resists it. This resistance smoothes out the surges of mud leaving the pump.

Here is the latest type of pulsation dampener, it does not have a bladder. It is a sphere about 4 feet or 1.2 m in diameter. It is built into the mud pump’s discharge line. The large chamber is form of mud. It has no moving parts so it does not need maintenance. The mud in the large volume sphere, absorbs this surges of mud leaving the pump.

A suction dampener smooths out the flow of mud entering into the pump. Crewmembers mount it on the triplex mud pump’s suction line. Inside the steel chamber is a air charged rubber bladder or diaphragm. The crew charges of the bladder about 10 to 15 psi/50 to 100 kPa. The suction dampener absorbs surges in the mud pump’s suction line caused by the fast-moving pump pistons. The pistons, constantly starts and stops the mud’s flow through the pump. At the other end of the charging line a suction pumps sends a smooth flow of mud to the pump’s intake. When the smooth flow meets the surging flow, the impact is absorbed by the dampener.

Workers always install a discharge pressure relief valve. They install it on the pump’s discharge side in or near the discharge line. If for some reason too much pressure builds up in the discharge line, perhaps the drill bit or annulus gets plugged, the relief valve opens. That opened above protects the mud pump and system damage from over pressure.

Some rig owners install a suction line relief valve. They install it on top of the suction line near the suction dampener. They mount it on top so that it won’t clog up with mud when the system is shut down. A suction relief valve protects the charging pump and the suction line dampener. A suction relief valve usually has a 2 inch or 50 mm seat opening. The installer normally adjusts it to 70 psi or 500 kPa relieving pressure. If both the suction and the discharged valves failed on the same side of the pump, high back flow or a pressure surge would occur. The high backflow could damage the charging pump or the suction line dampener. The discharge line is a high-pressure line through which the pump moves mud. From the discharge line, the mud goes through the stand pipe and rotary hose to the drill string equipment.

You’re researching foundation repair options and have come across the term “mud-pumping” and you want to know what it means. Or maybe you are thinking about when a foundation is lifted, what happens with the space underneath your home? There’s a void there now and does it get filled in or what?

Mud-pumping is a finishing step of foundation repair, but not every foundation repair contractor adds this final step. It’s not automatically done so you might be wondering why some companies would use this technique or what its advantages and disadvantages are.

At Anchor Foundation Repair, we have been repairing foundations since 1985 and began adding mud-pumping to all slab-on-grade foundation repairs in 1998. We decided to take every reasonable step to provide the most security and stability in foundation repairs to Brazos Valley homeowners and bought our first hydraulic mud pump at that time.

We know mud-pumping has great value and importance in a foundation repair project, it’s a standard part of our slab foundation repairs. But we can tell you about it in an objective way so that you can decide if it’s as important to you as it is to us.

We know that not everyone is trying to meet the same goals in selecting a foundation repair method or provider. We just want to give you all the information and options so that you can choose what works best for you and your home.

In a nutshell, foundation settlement coupled with foundation repair creates voids. Here’s why: a home with a slab foundation is built on the ground. Homes are heavy. Over time, the weight of the home will compress and compact the soil below it.

This initial compression causes the home to sink into the ground a bit. This is called settlement, and it’s not a bad thing unless it causesfoundation problemsfor your home.

Settlement can also occur because of the expansive clay soil we have in this area. Expansive clay expands when wet and contracts when dry. The drier the soil gets, the more it can contract, also causing a home to sink. It might not all sink evenly. This is how slab foundations can crack and possibly need repair.

During the repair process, the home is raised back up to its original elevation. So imagine that the home is lifted, but since the soil was compacted below it, now there is space between the ground and the bottom of the slab. This is also called a “void” which is a fancy word for empty space. I mean, technically there’s air in the space so it’s not totally empty but . . .

Now, you could just scream into the void underneath your home. But more productively, you can consider filling it with mud-pumping material so that there is not a bunch of empty space between the bottom of your home and the earth. Mud-pumping helps lessen the opportunity for more foundation settlement or problems to arise.

Mud-pumping is not typically needed for pier and beam foundations, but for slab-on-grade foundation repair, it is an option. While mud-pumping is not *required* in foundation repair, it has many benefits for the homeowner.

So no, mud-pumping is not necessary to complete a foundation repair project, and manyfoundation repair companiesdon’t do it. Even though foundation repair contractors often skip this final step, you may want to seriously consider it. All the “whys” are in the next section.

Nature doesn’t like empty things, nature wants to fill them up. This is that “nature abhors a vacuum” thing. If the void under your home doesn’t get filled with mud-pumping material. It will very likely get filled with something else, like:

PRO #1: So one of the pros of filling voids with mud-pumping is that it takes up that empty space and prevents those areas from getting filled with something less desirable. The slurry material flows and fills every little space, permeating even the smallest pockets of air. But there are a couple more compelling reasons for you too . . .

PRO #2: Empty space creates weaker points and added stress to the foundation where it is not directly supported. Mud-pumping provides extra stability and holding power to your foundation without empty spaces under it. Having something solid underneath your whole slab is more supportive than drilled piers or pressed piles alone.

PRO #3: Mud-pumping the voids under your foundation also minimizes the risk of further movement and settling. When things are all snug and surrounded by other material, it’s less likely for them to wiggle and move around. It’s kinda like tucking your kid in at night. You burrito that little one in good with the hopes that they will stop moving and fall asleep, right?

Side Effect Bonus PRO #4: The step before mud-pumping is testing your under-slab plumbing to make sure there are no leaks. If leaks are found, they need to be fixed first. So if mud-pumping is used on your foundation repair, you will have the added comfort of knowing that there are no leaks or that they have been repaired. This is another way to make sure that further problems don’t come up later for your foundation or underneath it.

Like anything else, there are a few cons to mud-pumping as part of your foundation repair. Even though we are a fan of mud-pumping, it does have some risks and downsides that we want you to be aware of.

CON #1: Mud-pumping costs more. This is an additional step that takes added time and more materials, SO there will be extra cost to you. Mud-pumping adds between $2,000 and $4,000 to the price of your average-sized foundation repair.

CON #2 (minor): There is a small risk of over-pumping the mud and adding too much material under the home. This can cause a hump in your floor. But with an experienced team working on your foundation repair project, this has a low chance of happening. Just want you to know this is a potential problem that could happen with an inexperienced or less careful contractor.

CON #3: Just like that kid that you tucked into bed with a burrito blanket, there’s no guarantee that no more movement will take place. Mud-pumping is a safeguard, an insurance policy, a risk minimizer, but it’s not an absolute settlement solution with no potential for failure.

Like many forms of insurance or safeguards, you don’t really know if you’re going to need it or not. You might only know the value of mud-pumping afterward in hindsight since we can’t predict what will happen later with your home.

As mentioned, mud-pumping is a final step in a foundation repair project, but it has a few steps of its own to complete the process. Here’s a breakdown of how it works:Raise the foundation and secure it in place with shims

The mud-pumping process takes about half a day or small projects and several delays for larger jobs at the end of a foundation repair project. So it doesn’t add a lot of time to the job but it can add some peace of mind.

What’s the worst-case scenario if you don’t do mud-pumping? Well, you could spend thousands of dollars on a foundation repair only to have it settle all over again due to missing that final step and leaving voids under your foundation.

On the flip side, your home can still settle no matter what you do (or it might not, there’s no way to know for sure) but the risk is minimized as much as humanly possible if you add mud-pumping to the repair. This seems like a tricky decision, so let’s try and make it a little easier with some “if-then” statements.If you love your home and plan to be in it for the long haul and want the very best, get the mud-pumping.

If you are selling your home and won’t be living in it any longer, then you’re not worried about the longevity of the repair and could skip the mud-pumping.

Here’s one more “if-then” statement for you: if you want to use Anchor Foundation Repair for your slab-on-grade foundation repair project, then mud-pumping is part of the deal. We don’t leave repair projects without the last step because we also have a lifetime warranty and service agreement.

At Anchor Foundation Repair, we have seen firsthand the consequences of not filling voids after repairs in our 35 years in business. We have inspected and repaired dozens of homes that had previous foundation repairs (by other companies) without mud-pumping. We have felt the hollow-sounding floors and seen homeowners having to go through the repair process again to get it right the second time.

To get it right the first time, Anchor employs more than one “risk-minimizing” tactic to provide the longest-lasting foundation repair possible. Check out our article highlighting4 service features that set us apartfrom other foundation repair contractors.

When choosing a size and type of mud pump for your drilling project, there are several factors to consider. These would include not only cost and size of pump that best fits your drilling rig, but also the diameter, depth and hole conditions you are drilling through. I know that this sounds like a lot to consider, but if you are set up the right way before the job starts, you will thank me later.

Recommended practice is to maintain a minimum of 100 to 150 feet per minute of uphole velocity for drill cuttings. Larger diameter wells for irrigation, agriculture or municipalities may violate this rule, because it may not be economically feasible to pump this much mud for the job. Uphole velocity is determined by the flow rate of the mud system, diameter of the borehole and the diameter of the drill pipe. There are many tools, including handbooks, rule of thumb, slide rule calculators and now apps on your handheld device, to calculate velocity. It is always good to remember the time it takes to get the cuttings off the bottom of the well. If you are drilling at 200 feet, then a 100-foot-per-minute velocity means that it would take two minutes to get the cuttings out of the hole. This is always a good reminder of what you are drilling through and how long ago it was that you drilled it. Ground conditions and rock formations are ever changing as you go deeper. Wouldn’t it be nice if they all remained the same?

Centrifugal-style mud pumps are very popular in our industry due to their size and weight, as well as flow rate capacity for an affordable price. There are many models and brands out there, and most of them are very good value. How does a centrifugal mud pump work? The rotation of the impeller accelerates the fluid into the volute or diffuser chamber. The added energy from the acceleration increases the velocity and pressure of the fluid. These pumps are known to be very inefficient. This means that it takes more energy to increase the flow and pressure of the fluid when compared to a piston-style pump. However, you have a significant advantage in flow rates from a centrifugal pump versus a piston pump. If you are drilling deeper wells with heavier cuttings, you will be forced at some point to use a piston-style mud pump. They have much higher efficiencies in transferring the input energy into flow and pressure, therefore resulting in much higher pressure capabilities.

Piston-style mud pumps utilize a piston or plunger that travels back and forth in a chamber known as a cylinder. These pumps are also called “positive displacement” pumps because they literally push the fluid forward. This fluid builds up pressure and forces a spring-loaded valve to open and allow the fluid to escape into the discharge piping of the pump and then down the borehole. Since the expansion process is much smaller (almost insignificant) compared to a centrifugal pump, there is much lower energy loss. Plunger-style pumps can develop upwards of 15,000 psi for well treatments and hydraulic fracturing. Centrifugal pumps, in comparison, usually operate below 300 psi. If you are comparing most drilling pumps, centrifugal pumps operate from 60 to 125 psi and piston pumps operate around 150 to 300 psi. There are many exceptions and special applications for drilling, but these numbers should cover 80 percent of all equipment operating out there.

The restriction of putting a piston-style mud pump onto drilling rigs has always been the physical size and weight to provide adequate flow and pressure to your drilling fluid. Because of this, the industry needed a new solution to this age-old issue.

Enter Cory Miller of Centerline Manufacturing, who I recently recommended for recognition by the National Ground Water Association (NGWA) for significant contributions to the industry.

As the senior design engineer for Ingersoll-Rand’s Deephole Drilling Business Unit, I had the distinct pleasure of working with him and incorporating his Centerline Mud Pump into our drilling rig platforms.

In the late ’90s — and perhaps even earlier —  Ingersoll-Rand had tried several times to develop a hydraulic-driven mud pump that would last an acceptable life- and duty-cycle for a well drilling contractor. With all of our resources and design wisdom, we were unable to solve this problem. Not only did Miller provide a solution, thus saving the size and weight of a typical gear-driven mud pump, he also provided a new offering — a mono-cylinder mud pump. This double-acting piston pump provided as much mud flow and pressure as a standard 5 X 6 duplex pump with incredible size and weight savings.

The true innovation was providing the well driller a solution for their mud pump requirements that was the right size and weight to integrate into both existing and new drilling rigs. Regardless of drill rig manufacturer and hydraulic system design, Centerline has provided a mud pump integration on hundreds of customer’s drilling rigs. Both mono-cylinder and duplex-cylinder pumps can fit nicely on the deck, across the frame or even be configured for under-deck mounting. This would not be possible with conventional mud pump designs.

Centerline stuck with their original design through all of the typical trials and tribulations that come with a new product integration. Over the course of the first several years, Miller found out that even the best of the highest quality hydraulic cylinders, valves and seals were not truly what they were represented to be. He then set off on an endeavor to bring everything in-house and began manufacturing all of his own components, including hydraulic valves. This gave him complete control over the quality of components that go into the finished product.

The second generation design for the Centerline Mud Pump is expected later this year, and I believe it will be a true game changer for this industry. It also will open up the application to many other industries that require a heavier-duty cycle for a piston pump application.

Whether onshore or offshore, well drilling sites rely on a multitude of systems to successfully perform the drilling operation. The mud pump is a key component tasked with circulating drilling fluid under high pressure downhole. The mud pump can be divided into two key sections: the power end or crosshead and the fluid end. Proper alignment of the pump’s crosshead to the fluid end liner is necessary to maximizing piston and liner life. Misalignment contributes to

accelerated wear on both the piston and the liner, and replacing these components requires downtime of the pump. Traditional methods of inspecting alignment range from using uncalibrated wooden rods, Faro Arms and micrometers to check the vertical and horizontal alignment of the piston rod OD to the piston liner ID. These are time consuming and cumbersome techniques that are ultimately not well suited to troubleshoot and solve alignment issues.

A “Mud Pump Laser Alignment Kit” enables you to measure where the piston will run through the liner at various positions along the pump’s stroke. It will also project a laser centerline from the fluid end back towards the rear power end of the pump that can be used to determine how much shimming is required to correct any alignment issues. The kit can include either a 2-Axis receiver or a 4-Axis which accepts the laser beam and documents where it falls on the active surface of the receiver. The 4-Axis receiver can decrease alignment time by as much as 50% as it will measure angularity as well as X and Y while the 2-Axis does not and will need multiple measurement locations to get the same information. In addition, the alignment system is a non-intrusive service requiring the removal of only the piston rod which allows for much quicker service and less down time on the pump. As the mud pumps in question are located globally both on and offshore, having a small, portable system is another great advantage. Our recommendation would be Pinpoint laser System’s “Mud Pump Alignment Kit”. They are being used by many of the leading repair service companies and have been their main alignment tool for over 15 years. Manufacturers are also utilizing these for new pump set-up.

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For the successful execution of your projects, it is important to find an appropriate company with a good track record. We help you in connecting with the top mud pump manufacturers and companies and get the best quotation.

We have designed affordable annual subscription plans which would help you get leads for your business. You can have a look at our pricing chart by clicking on this link: https://www.energydais.com/pricing/ . These plans are customized according to the specific needs and requirements of your business.

The most widely used mud pumps across the industry are Triplex Reciprocating Pumps. Their application has gained immense popularity with time because they are 30% lighter than duplex reciprocating pumps with relatively less operational cost. Moreover, through these pumps the discharge of mud is smooth and they are capable of moving large volume of mud at higher pressure.

Yes. We help you find the best mud pumps irrespective of your location. We simplify your search by connecting you with top mud pump manufacturers and mud pump companies in your location, according to your budget and business requirement.

Yes. We use third-party companies to provide best quotations for your shipment and inspection of manufactured goods. We make sure that you get quality products from the manufacturer at the best price.

The most widely used mud pumps across the industry are Triplex Reciprocating Pumps. Their application has gained immense popularity with time because they are 30% lighter than duplex reciprocating pumps with relatively less operational cost. Moreover, through these pumps the discharge of mud is smooth and they are capable of moving large volume of mud at higher pressure.

The different parts of a mud pump are Housing itself, Liner with packing, Cover plus packing, Piston and piston rod, Suction valve and discharge valve with their seats, Stuffing box (only in double-acting pumps), Gland (only in double-acting pumps), and Pulsation dampener. A mud pump also includes mud pump liner, mud pump piston, modules, hydraulic seat pullers along with other parts.

The wearing parts of a mud pump should be checked frequently for repairing needs or replacement. The wearing parts include pump casing, bearings, impeller, piston, liner, etc. Advanced anti-wear measures should be taken up to enhance the service life of the wearing parts. This can effectively bring down the project costs and improve production efficiency.

Mud Pumps come in both electric and gas / diesel engine drive along with air motors. Most of these pumps for mud, trash and sludge or other high solids content liquid dewatering, honey wagon and pumper trucks. Slurry and mud pumps are often diaphragm type pumps but also include centrifugal trash and submersible non-clog styles.

WARNING: Do not use in explosive atmosphere or for pumping volatile flammable liquids. Do not throttle or restrict the discharge. Recommend short lengths of discharge hose since a diaphragm mud pump is a positive displacement type and they are not built with relief valves.

Your water pump is primed and the liquid is flowing… kind of. One of the more common problems with water pumps is a reduced or lower than expected water flow. When you need to dewater the jobsite, low flow means more downtime for the crew, costing money and putting deadlines at risk. Often, low water flow is less about your water pump and more to do with the situation. Below are a few things to review to troubleshoot water pump problems involving low water flow.

The greater the distance a pump has to pull the water, the lower the flow rate will be. Get too far from the water source and the more power is dedicated to ‘sucking’ the water and less to discharging, reducing the flow rate.

Typically, pumps should be with 20 feet of the water source. Depending on the typography, how high the pump is relative to the water, the flow may be reduced at even shorter distances. Your pump has individual specification, so be sure you read the spec and operate within them.

Your pump is designed to operate with a certain diameter input line. In some cases, we have seen people attach a smaller than recommended hose or line (using a reduction couplings). Depending on the intake line you use, it is also possible that the line crimps, or is “sucked in” on itself.

Debri blockage is a common problem. With murky water it can be hard to see the intake hose. But, operators should check to be sure there is no debris blocking the intake. The blockage usually happens at the filter as it does it’s job to prevent damage to the water pump. Remove the debri and reposition the hose to start pumping again.

The intake filter or screen can also be the culprit even without debri . While you must ensure the filter is fine enough to prevent damaging solids from entering the pump, too fine a filter for the water pump will restrict the flow right as the water enters the intake. Be sure the filter is proper for the pump.

Centrifugal water pumps are designed to operate with the impeller going in one direction. If it is going the opposite direction, the pump will not operate properly. This can happen if the electrical connections to the electric motor is not established correctly. Review the electric motors setup and user instructions to ensure your connections are correct.

Whether you are dewatering a jobsite, irrigating a field or applying your water pump for any other purpose, low flow is an issue. In some cases, like a firefighting pump, it can be a matter of life-or-death. One way to minimize onsite issue it to check all your equipment on a regular basis, replacing worn parts and performing maintenance as needed. But when confronted with low flow rates, follow the above steps and you’ll be able to get your water pump back in action, and your crew back to work.

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GDEP is the original creator of the drilling pump and continues to set the standard for durable, high-quality drilling pumps that can withstand the world’s toughest drilling environments. Starting with our PZ7 and rounding out with the market"s most popular pump, the PZ1600, our PZ Series of pumps are the perfect choice for today"s high-pressure drilling applications.

Lake Petro provides high quality Mud Pump Parts including Mud Pump Liners, Mud Pump Fluid End Module, piston, Valve and Seat etc. With more than 10 years of experience in the oil and gas industry, we are dedicated to help and support our loyal clients with the most cost-effective and quality Liners and Pistons. We also provide mud pump price and mud pump for sale.

We offer Liners with Ceramic (Zirconia and Aluminium oxide) and Steel (Metal and Bi-metal) materials for all common brands of the mud pump and triplex mud pump.

Bi-metal liners (double metal liners) are made of forged steel shell and wear-resistant sleeve of high chromium iron. In the production process, the size accuracy should be strictly controlled, which can ensure that they can be easily and stably installed. The inner sleeve with high finish and hardness is wear-resistant, corrosion-resistant and has a long service life. The bi-metal liners are suitable for a lot of bad working conditions. Its service life is more than 800 hours.

Ceramic Liners are made of a ceramic inner sleeve and a forged steel outer shell. The service life of ceramic liners is about 4000 to 10000 hours, the minimum time is at least 2000 hours, which is a lot more than bi-metal liners. Because of the phase transformation toughen technology, the ceramic liners have the features of wear-resistance, erosion-resistance, high-pressure-resistance, high hardness and strength. Zirconia type and Alumina type are common type of ceramic sleeve. Compared with Alumina type, Zirconia type liners have better toughness properties and a much longer service life. Piston wear and water consumption for lubrication can be reduced as well.

All Lake Petro liner products are interchangeable with O.E.M. products. Meanwhile, we provide customized Liners according to drawings. Our liners, also with our other mud pump spares, are supplied for use in Honghua, F-Series, Bomco, Emsco and National lines of triplex drilling pumps. Let Lake Petro be your one-stop shop for your whole fleet of pumps. Please refer to “Suitable Pump Models” Lable for more details.

A Mud Pump may have many changeable parts, such as liner, piston, extension rod, pulsation dampener, valve, clamp, etc. Lake Petro could provide 100% interchangeable parts of many common brands of pump. We offer Liners with Ceramic (Zirconia and Aluminium oxide) and Steel (Metal and Bi-metal) materials. Piston assembly is the important spare parts and expendable parts of oil drilling mud pumps. Mud pump valve assy include valve body, valve seat, valve insert (valve rubber ). Pulsation Dampener is usually installed on the discharge line to reduce the fluctuation of pressure and displacement of the drilling mud pump. Fluid End Module is an important component of the hydraulic pump end of the mud pump.

You’re researching foundation repair options and have come across the term “mud-pumping” and you want to know what it means. Or maybe you are thinking about when a foundation is lifted, what happens with the space underneath your home? There’s a void there now and does it get filled in or what?

Mud-pumping is a finishing step of foundation repair, but not every foundation repair contractor adds this final step. It’s not automatically done so you might be wondering why some companies would use this technique or what its advantages and disadvantages are.

At Anchor Foundation Repair, we have been repairing foundations since 1985 and began adding mud-pumping to all slab-on-grade foundation repairs in 1998. We decided to take every reasonable step to provide the most security and stability in foundation repairs to Brazos Valley homeowners and bought our first hydraulic mud pump at that time.

We know mud-pumping has great value and importance in a foundation repair project, it’s a standard part of our slab foundation repairs. But we can tell you about it in an objective way so that you can decide if it’s as important to you as it is to us.

We know that not everyone is trying to meet the same goals in selecting a foundation repair method or provider. We just want to give you all the information and options so that you can choose what works best for you and your home.

In a nutshell, foundation settlement coupled with foundation repair creates voids. Here’s why: a home with a slab foundation is built on the ground. Homes are heavy. Over time, the weight of the home will compress and compact the soil below it.

This initial compression causes the home to sink into the ground a bit. This is called settlement, and it’s not a bad thing unless it causesfoundation problemsfor your home.

Settlement can also occur because of the expansive clay soil we have in this area. Expansive clay expands when wet and contracts when dry. The drier the soil gets, the more it can contract, also causing a home to sink. It might not all sink evenly. This is how slab foundations can crack and possibly need repair.

During the repair process, the home is raised back up to its original elevation. So imagine that the home is lifted, but since the soil was compacted below it, now there is space between the ground and the bottom of the slab. This is also called a “void” which is a fancy word for empty space. I mean, technically there’s air in the space so it’s not totally empty but . . .

Now, you could just scream into the void underneath your home. But more productively, you can consider filling it with mud-pumping material so that there is not a bunch of empty space between the bottom of your home and the earth. Mud-pumping helps lessen the opportunity for more foundation settlement or problems to arise.

Mud-pumping is not typically needed for pier and beam foundations, but for slab-on-grade foundation repair, it is an option. While mud-pumping is not *required* in foundation repair, it has many benefits for the homeowner.

So no, mud-pumping is not necessary to complete a foundation repair project, and manyfoundation repair companiesdon’t do it. Even though foundation repair contractors often skip this final step, you may want to seriously consider it. All the “whys” are in the next section.

Nature doesn’t like empty things, nature wants to fill them up. This is that “nature abhors a vacuum” thing. If the void under your home doesn’t get filled with mud-pumping material. It will very likely get filled with something else, like:

PRO #1: So one of the pros of filling voids with mud-pumping is that it takes up that empty space and prevents those areas from getting filled with something less desirable. The slurry material flows and fills every little space, permeating even the smallest pockets of air. But there are a couple more compelling reasons for you too . . .

PRO #2: Empty space creates weaker points and added stress to the foundation where it is not directly supported. Mud-pumping provides extra stability and holding power to your foundation without empty spaces under it. Having something solid underneath your whole slab is more supportive than drilled piers or pressed piles alone.

PRO #3: Mud-pumping the voids under your foundation also minimizes the risk of further movement and settling. When things are all snug and surrounded by other material, it’s less likely for them to wiggle and move around. It’s kinda like tucking your kid in at night. You burrito that little one in good with the hopes that they will stop moving and fall asleep, right?

Side Effect Bonus PRO #4: The step before mud-pumping is testing your under-slab plumbing to make sure there are no leaks. If leaks are found, they need to be fixed first. So if mud-pumping is used on your foundation repair, you will have the added comfort of knowing that there are no leaks or that they have been repaired. This is another way to make sure that further problems don’t come up later for your foundation or underneath it.

Like anything else, there are a few cons to mud-pumping as part of your foundation repair. Even though we are a fan of mud-pumping, it does have some risks and downsides that we want you to be aware of.

CON #1: Mud-pumping costs more. This is an additional step that takes added time and more materials, SO there will be extra cost to you. Mud-pumping adds between $2,000 and $4,000 to the price of your average-sized foundation repair.

CON #2 (minor): There is a small risk of over-pumping the mud and adding too much material under the home. This can cause a hump in your floor. But with an experienced team working on your foundation repair project, this has a low chance of happening. Just want you to know this is a potential problem that could happen with an inexperienced or less careful contractor.

CON #3: Just like that kid that you tucked into bed with a burrito blanket, there’s no guarantee that no more movement will take place. Mud-pumping is a safeguard, an insurance policy, a risk minimizer, but it’s not an absolute settlement solution with no potential for failure.

Like many forms of insurance or safeguards, you don’t really know if you’re going to need it or not. You might only know the value of mud-pumping afterward in hindsight since we can’t predict what will happen later with your home.

As mentioned, mud-pumping is a final step in a foundation repair project, but it has a few steps of its own to complete the process. Here’s a breakdown of how it works:Raise the foundation and secure it in place with shims

The mud-pumping process takes about half a day or small projects and several delays for larger jobs at the end of a foundation repair project. So it doesn’t add a lot of time to the job but it can add some peace of mind.

What’s the worst-case scenario if you don’t do mud-pumping? Well, you could spend thousands of dollars on a foundation repair only to have it settle all over again due to missing that final step and leaving voids under your foundation.

On the flip side, your home can still settle no matter what you do (or it might not, there’s no way to know for sure) but the risk is minimized as much as humanly possible if you add mud-pumping to the repair. This seems like a tricky decision, so let’s try and make it a little easier with some “if-then” statements.If you love your home and plan to be in it for the long haul and want the very best, get the mud-pumping.

If you are selling your home and won’t be living in it any longer, then you’re not worried about the longevity of the repair and could skip the mud-pumping.

Here’s one more “if-then” statement for you: if you want to use Anchor Foundation Repair for your slab-on-grade foundation repair project, then mud-pumping is part of the deal. We don’t leave repair projects without the last step because we also have a lifetime warranty and service agreement.

At Anchor Foundation Repair, we have seen firsthand the consequences of not filling voids after repairs in our 35 years in business. We have inspected and repaired dozens of homes that had previous foundation repairs (by other companies) without mud-pumping. We have felt the hollow-sounding floors and seen homeowners having to go through the repair process again to get it right the second time.

To get it right the first time, Anchor employs more than one “risk-minimizing” tactic to provide the longest-lasting foundation repair possible. Check out our article highlighting4 service features that set us apartfrom other foundation repair contractors.

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