overshot dog brands

Since the teeth overlap, the dog has trouble chewing food. In addition, the lower jaw teeth may hit the roof repeatedly and cause injuries in the process.

Sable M. is a canine chef, professional pet blogger, and proud owner of two male dogs. I have been an animal lover all my life, with dogs holding a special place in my heart. Initially, I created this blog to share recipes, tips, and any relevant information on healthy homemade dog treats. But because of my unrelenting passion to make a difference in the world of dogs, I have expanded the blog’s scope to include the best information and recommendations about everything dog lovers need to know about their canine friends’ health and wellbeing. My mission now is to find the most helpful content on anything related to dogs and share it with fellow hardworking hound lovers. While everything I share is in line with the latest evidence-based veterinarian health guidelines, nothing should be construed as veterinary advice. Please contact your vet in all matters regarding your Fido’s health.

Boart Longyear’s New Overshot Resolving Pointy IssuesSince Boart Longyear introduced the Q™ Wireline system in 1966, retrieving the inner tube from the core barrel has been handled the same way: an overshot with lifting dogs (spring loaded hooked “fingers”) is lowered or pumped into the hole until it snaps over a pivoting spearhead mechanism affixed to the inner tube assembly. Once the head assembly has been removed from the hole, the driller uses the pivoting spearhead to position the head assembly on their workspace and squeezes the back of the lifting dogs to release.In all this time, this system (seen in photo on the right) has had the same basic issues:

Lifting Dog and Spearhead Wear: To balance strength and wear resistance, lifting dogs and spear points are heat treated to a medium hardness. However, it’s difficult to visually evaluate or functionally test the degree of wear, especially in underground applications.

Boart Longyear currently provides a secondary safety pin that clips through the overshot, passing just under the spearhead tip. This adds an extra layer of protection in case the lifting dogs are excessively worn or deformed. However, spearheads are loaded cyclically and often loaded ‘off-pivot’, which deforms the components over time, to the point of disassembly. While the more recent MKII™ version of the spearhead assembly is much more robust, in the case of spearhead failure, the head assembly will release from the overshot regardless of lifting dog or safety pin use or condition.

This patent-pending overshot leverages our previous experience with Roller Latch™ head assemblies to create a more reliable and longer lasting system that eliminates spearheads and lifting dogs entirely. The spearhead assembly is replaced by a one-piece socket receptacle (spearhead adapter) that accepts the overshot itself, which has rollers that latch into an internal groove in the spearhead adapter.

The increased toughness and hardness of the bearing quality latch rollers have a proven history of outlasting traditional pivoting latches for wear life. The new overshot will also feature the same Nitreg™-ONC surface treatment as Roller Latch head assemblies that drastically improves corrosion resistance (Nitreg is a trademark of Nitrex Inc.).Safety pin integration in the new underground Quick Pump-In™ overshot now pulls double duty of both locking the overshot from accidentally releasing while hoisting, as well as holding the head assembly and overshot together in case of component failure due to excessive wear. Also, the socket and rollers are not affected by side loading and ‘off-pivot’ loading during tube handling outside the hole, eliminating gradual deformation or disassembly. The new surface overshot will also include a one-hand twist-lock sleeve to maintain a locked position while hoisting outside the hole, even with a loss of wireline cable tension.It’s also easy to use. Instead of pushing the backs of the lifting dogs together, the driller pushes the two halves of the assembly together, retracting the rollers and releasing the head assembly. This operation takes about the same amount of force as the current overshot, so drillers won’t miss a beat.

Additional benefits have been included[CA1] apart from the elimination of the spearhead and lifting dogs. While the current design uses a solid pivot pin that is peened into place (making it difficult to re-build), the Roller Latch Overshot has no pins whatsoever. Everything is held in place by simple threaded connections for easy maintenance.The Quick Pump-In™ (Q/P, underground) assembly further addresses two issues specific to pump-in applications

The Roller Latch Overshot features a brand new pump-in cable release system, originally conceptualized and prototyped by one of our expert underground drillers in Canada. A slotted sleeve and pumping seal assembly is placed over the wireline and pumped up to the overshot. The sleeve engages a quick-release mechanism and releases the wireline. This system has proven to be much more reliable, and may be the feature drillers are most thrilled to have going forward. Reports of fewer broken wirelines have been received from several sites testing the pump-in cable release system.

To combat this and make Q/P Roller Latch easier to use while maintaining its safety features, a ‘brake release spring’ was created. This spring assembles quickly inside of the spearhead adapter on the head assembly. While tripping on its own, the head assembly brake works normally, but when the overshot latches into it this spring is compressed, disengaging the brake. This feature has also been received very positively by drillers in the field.

A surface-style overshot is also in development in B/N/H sizes. In addition to many of the features outlined in this article, the aim is to add more innovations, including:

• An improved lock sleeve to disable accidental head assembly release and stop drillers from accidentally sending the overshot down the hole while locked.

I recently received two emails from police K9 handlers who had similar tracking problems. Both had dogs that ran tracks but blew by the corners. They both wanted to know what to do. The following is what I recommended.

There is nothing wrong with a dog running on a track as long as the dog has scent. In fact, in many cases, unless the dog can track at a run, they will never catch up to the suspect.

Bottom line is: dogs that run when tracking catch more bad guys than foot-step-trackers. By foot-step-trackers I mean the style of tracking seen in Schutzhund or IPO.

Dogs that run will almost always overshoot corners. It"s about impossible not to. With experience, a well-trained dog will give a noticeable track-loss indication and start to circle. This must become a trained reaction for track loss.

Our goal is to teach the dog to give a clear signal for track loss when they overrun a corner. It"s the handler"s responsibility to recognize that signal. This should be something that is learned on training tracks.

When handlers recognize track-loss within 20 to 30 feet past a corner, the handler can help the dog (through circling) figure out which way the suspect went. Brand new police service dogs can be taught track-loss in at 50 training tracks. Dogs that have problems because of a poor foundation in tracking may need 150 to 200 tracks. Bottom line is it"s always quicker to train a behavior correctly from the beginning than having to go back and retrain a problem out of the dog.

Handlers must also lay their own tracks for this work and those tracks need to be laid INTO THE WIND. They have to know exactly where the corners are. They also need to know when a dog overshoots the corner, it 100% does not have any track scent. By tracking into the wind you know this.

Most K9 handlers know that they need to kick in the corner, usually 3 or 4 feet before and 3 or 4 feet after each corner. That way the odor cone is always stronger at the corner. Some dog"s pick this up quickly and take corners on their own.

When that happens, the trainer stops kicking in the corners. They may fade to only kicking 3 or 4 feet after the corner and then after a number of training tracks, they fade it altogether. This may be the point when some dogs have corner problems because they have been waiting for the stronger "odor cone," and when it doesn"t come, they blow right on past the corner.

When the dog blows a corner, the handler needs to really focus and watch his dog"s head. You know there is no scent there because of the wind direction. In the beginning, the handler stops on the corner and lets the dog work out the problems.

If the dog continues to hunt for the track, have patience and let him. If he wants to pull straight ahead, don"t go with him. If the track goes to the right and he wants to go left, don"t go with him, just hold the leash and let him run in a circle to the left and bring him around until he cuts the track going to the right. Should the dog cut the first leg and want to track to the corner again, let him. It"s part of the learning experience.

One of the things an experienced dog handler will talk about is the head snap when his dog cuts a track. That happens when the dog is moving pretty quickly and he cuts across a track.

Handlers can actually teach head-snaps by not going to the exact beginning spot where they laid their training track. Rather, have the dog run in a circle and cut the track 5 or 10 yards down the first leg. Most of the time, a K9 handler never knows exactly where the track started. In addition, by the time he or she gets there, other officers have trampled the scene. So the K9 handler is forced to go beyond the contamination and cut the track.

So back to corners. Our goal is to teach our dog that when it gets track loss, it circles to cut the track after a corner. If the handler has worked a head-snap on his "starts", this will be easier for the dog and handler at corners.

As long as the dog is working, handlers should remain quiet at a track-loss. If the dog is searching giving multiple "FIND IT" commands does nothing other than make the dog nervous.

In the beginning, don"t be too concerned if the dog struggles. As long as you know exactly where the corner is, you are in control. The natural tendency is to help the dog. Handlers that help by pointing out the corner end up with a dog that gets in trouble and expects the handler to show him where to go. So your goal is for your dog to become a problem solver.

If the dog wants to pull past the corner in the direction of the first leg, don"t go with him. Stand your ground. This becomes a subtle statement for the dog. You"re not showing him which way the track goes, but you are telling him that you know he can"t smell it (because you"re going into the wind). Your goal is to teach him to work out the problem of "WHERE DID THE TRACK GO?"

So when the dog lifts his head, quietly ask him to "find it". See if he has the drive to look on his own. Let him struggle a little. That"s how he learns.

If he flat stops, then you have to circle and cut the track. When we lay tracks we use articles. We will always leave an article 30 to 40 feet after a corner. This is a subtle way of rewarding a dog after a corner.

How you handle the dog when you stop at corners is important. I would use my voice to ASK HIM to look, not COMMAND him to look. Encourage the dog to find the track but not to the point of distraction. Too much from you and you become the problem.

Just remember that your goal during this period is not to get to the end of the track but for you to learn your dogs "track-loss indication" and for the dog to learn to circle when it overshots the corners.

These training tracks (into the wind) need to continue until the handler feels confident in recognizing a track-loss signal from his dog. Once that happens he can change things up. Tracks can be laid with the wind at your back and when that"s good the handler needs to move on to "unknown tracks".

If you want to learn more about Police K9 tracking (or Search & Rescue Tracking), I recommend that you get the set of DVDs or future online courses that I did with the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. The RCMP are hands-down the best tracking dog trainers in North American and even in the world.

Ed Frawley is the founder of Leerburg. He has been training dogs since the 1950s. For 30 years, Ed bred working bloodline German Shepherds and has produced over 350 litters. During this time, Ed began recording dog training videos and soon grew an interest in police service dogs. His narcotic dogs have been involved in over 1,000 narcotics searches resulting in hundreds of arrests in the state of Wisconsin. Ed now solely focuses on producing dog training courses with renowned dog trainers nationwide. If you want to learn more about Ed, read about his history here.

Do you have a new puppy that is peeing everywhere? Or maybe your old dog is starting to leak. If pee is your problem, then a pee pad is probably the solution.

With help over dog trainers, our in-house vet, a dedicated team of testers, their dogs and over 500 owners of new puppies surveyed, we spent hundreds of hours testing and reviewing over 50 different pee pads.

Where do I begin? The Bulldogology pee pads placed number-one in every single test we performed. I’d go so far to say that these pee pads are almost perfect.

Our simulated pee test saw a full cup of pee absorbed in 4 seconds. Best of all, it stays there. If your dog steps in his pee, you can be confident he won’t track it across the floor – even when the pee pad is almost full.

What we loved most about the Bulldogology puppy pee pads is their resistance to wrinkling. Whether absorbing a small amount of pee from a tiny Chihuahua or the seemingly endless flow of our Boxer, the absorptive layer refused to bunch up.

Flip the Bulldogology pee pad over. You’ll discover that there are sticky tabs in each corner. Peel off the tabs on the underside of the pee pad, and you can secure it to any hard flooring, such as tiles, hardwood or vinyl.

Now the pee pad won’t slip when your dog catches on it. Even if your dog catches his paw on the edge. The adhesive tabs will also keep the pee pad in place when the wind blows!

This way, when his Pomeranian cocked his leg, he would hit the section on the wall. However, we advise caution if using the Bulldogology pee pad in this manner – you may find the adhesive takes the paint off your wall.

The carbon was surprisingly effective at neutralizing the smell of dog pee. Even when we left a soaked pee pad out all day, the smell was considerably less noticeable than pee pads without carbon.

I personally didn’t mind the color. Any pee was considerably less visible than on a white-colored pee pad. I could sit in the lounge room with guests, and they would be oblivious they were sitting just a few feet from a dog pee soaked pad.

If the color really is a deal breaker for you, then check out the Bulldogology Puppy Training Pads – a traditional white pee pad. They performed near identically but did not have the odor-reducing carbon layer.

Those of you looking for a budget option should check out our next recommendation. But if you want performance and are happy to pay for it, the Bulldogology pee pads are the best on the market. Highly recommended.

Most importantly, these pee pads passed our 24-hour test. You can leave them out for a full day, and unless your dog over-saturates them, they won’t leak or drip…

Even if your dog steps on the pad hours later, his paws won’t get wet. Like our other recommendations, the Frisco Training & Potty Pads excelled at preventing urine from being tracked through the home.

This is especially true if you have an adult dog that needs to use pee pads, say as a result of injury or age. With the generous 30″ x 23″ size, it’s less likely you’ll find pee on the floor – It’s easier to hit a larger pee pad than a small one!

And when your dog does his business on the Kirkland Pee Pads, you’ll be happy to know that they can absorb a generous 4.5 cups of urine without leaking. While that’s less than the 6 cups that Kirkland advertises, it’s in line with other extra-large pee pads we reviewed in this size.

And I am pleased to note that the Kirkland Extra-Large Absorbent Pads passed our tracking test with flying colors. If a dog walked through their pee, they did not leave wet paw prints around the home.

The large rectangular size makes them somewhat wasteful for a tiny puppy or small dog (like a Maltese Terrier). During testing, we noticed that small breeds were unable to fill the pee pad across the day.

At the time of writing this, the Bark XXL Pee Pads are the largest pee pads for dogs on the market. Measuring a giant 30 x 36 inches, there is a lot of absorbent area to catch your pup’s pee.

It’s this extra-surface area that makes it our number-one recommendation. If you have a big dog, the larger pad gives him a target that is harder to miss. If you have an inaccurate dog that sprays, a larger pee pad makes all the difference.

During testing, we noticed that giant dogs (such as our Cane Corso tester) can move pee pads without issue. Whether they are excitedly springing off the pad to greet you, or catching the pad with their paw – a large dog can accidentally fling a pee soaked pad across your floor.

There is nothing worse than returning home to a house that smells like dog urine. Unfortunately, this is all too common if you leave your pee pads out for an extended period – such as when you leave for work.

But the best of the best was the All-Kind Floral Scented Dog Pads. The flowery scent was the most effective at hiding the smell of dog urine, even when left to sit out for a day (not that we advise this.)

After the review, it surprised us to learn that the All-Kind Floral Scented Dog Pads are also a brand made exclusively for chewy.com. However, they appear to be made from a different manufacturer as the Frisco Scented Pee Pads, which didn’t perform quite as well when it came to masking the smell of pee.

My only complaint is that the All-Kind Pee pads are only available in a single size (21 x 21 inches). If you want a scented option for a larger dog, you should check out the Large-sized scented Frisco Pee Pads. Or check out our large dog top pick, which uses carbon to neutralize the odors instead.

Specifications + Test ResultsNote: Specifications are based on the more popular Original Unscented Wee-Wee Pads. The scented version performed identically, except it contains a fragrance that successfully hides the smell of dog pee.

The other variations either failed to add practical value or. Given that the dog pee pads with more features are also more expensive, it’s hard to recommend them.

No more accidentally folding a pee pad over as your dog steps on it. A pee pad holder also allows you to confidently place a pee pad down in a breezy location, such as your balcony.

Want to see our other recommendations? Check out our best pee pad holder review – there are recommendations that can stop even the most destructive dog from shredding the pee pad.

Don’t get me wrong, this doesn’t necessarily mean that these are bad pee pads. After all, each was able to absorb and trap dog urine to varying degrees of success.

The American Kennel Club (AKC) is one of the best-known dog organizations in America. Given their rich history and access to expert knowledge we believe they have missed an opportunity to create an industry-leading pee pad.

We found that urine readily runs off the top of this pee pad. It cannot absorb fast enough to keep up with the pee of a medium dog, which saw urine pool before flowing off the pee pad.

Firstly, the absorbent gel-core of the Amazon Basics Training pads struggles to lock in moisture. If your dog walks over his pee, he’s going to track it across your home.

Our biggest complaint was the baking soda core that claimed to eliminate stinky pee smells. In the sniff test, we could not tell the difference between the Arm & Hammer Dog Pads and pee pads that didn’t contain an odor masker.

Note: Arm and Hammer also makes a variation of this pee pad called the Puppy Pads. We found these to be identical in terms of size and performance, however they contain attractant to encourage puppies to pee on the pad. The trade-off is that you get 25 fewer pads in a box. If an attractant is important to you, our recommendation is to buy the standard Arm & Hammer Dog Pads and use an attractant spray instead – it will save you money in the long run.

Printed on top of each pee pad is a target that contains a special attractant. Apparently, this target encourages your dog to pee in the center of the pad.

Like with pads that don’t feature this scented bullseye, peeing in was largely a game of chance. More often than not, we watched our dog’s pee stream to the edge of the pad.

When it came to absorbing dog urine, these pee pads were the slowest to do so. The thick, quilted to layer caused pee to pool on the surface before slowly being drawn into the pee pad.

Unfortunately, this shortcoming leads to leaks. Not through the pad, but by pee running off the surface. This was a particular problem for dogs that went potty near the edge of the pad – the urine would flow off the side.

The slow absorption rate increased the likelihood of a dog walking through pee as he stepped off the pad. We also experienced a lower useable capacity before the performance was impacted compared to other brands in the same size.

Then there is the spread. A cup of water spread across the Dogit Home Guard from edge to edge. These pee pads will likely need to be replaced after a single potty break.

Despite using charcoal as the odor neutralizer, the Glad Activated Carbon Training Pads were surprisingly effective at masking the odor of dog urine. Don’t get me wrong, it didn’t hide the smell as well as a scented dog pee pad, but it certainly did a better job than most of the other carbon pee pads we reviewed.

This meant that when our doggy testers finished their potty business, there was still a pool of urine on the surface. If your dog accidentally dips his paw in the pee and steps off the pad, he’ll track it all over your floor.

And that’s my biggest complaint with the Martha Stewart Pets Jumbo Pee Training Pads, their cost. Because of the name attached, you are overpaying for what is an otherwise unremarkable pee pad. It’s not that it’s a bad dog pee pad, but you can certainly get better for cheaper.

If a dog pees on the side of the pad, the pee had the potential to run the edge and onto the floor. This was a particular problem for large dogs with big bladders, like a Rottweiler or Mastiff.

Most notable is the size. At 24 x 24 inches, they are slightly larger than most other square-shaped pee pads we reviewed. If your dog pees near the edges of the pad, those extra-inches count.

Unfortunately, these claims didn’t translate to our real-world testing. We found the Out! Ultimate Quilted Dog Pads to slip just as much other pee pads without this ‘non-slip’ feature.

Do you have a small dog who raises his leg to pee? The Rocky & Maggy Pop-Up Pee Pads are well worth checking out – They are like no other pee pad on the market.

Located in the center of the pee pad is a cardboard fire hydrant. The moment you unfold the pee pad, the fire hydrant pops up, giving your dog a familiar target to aim for.

Unfortunately, we can’t hold the Paw Trax Doggy Pads to the same regard. For performance and price they don’t hold up to the other dog pee pads we reviewed.

The same goes for the tracking protection that failed after being left out for a full day. The mesh barrier of the training tray prevents your dog’s paws from coming into contact with the pee pad.

This simple product has an incredibly important job, protecting your floor when your dog goes potty. I’m not sure if you have cleaned up dog pee before, but it isn’t fun. A pee pad stops the mess in the first place!

Whatever you call them, it’s the same thing. I personally prefer to call them pee pads since they can be used on dogs of all ages – not just during the potty training phase.

Disposable pee pads, while worse for the environment are the more popular choice. Reusable pee pads need to be washed and dried before they can be used again – many dog owners are not down for that extra work.

Pee pads to the rescue. Place a pee pad underneath your incontinent dog, and in his favorite resting places, to save your floor from a flood of urine.

In these situations, many owners train their dogs to do their go do his business on a pee pad. This way you don’t have to expose yourself or your pup to horrific weather.

It doesn’t matter if you are stuck inside due to a torrential downpour or a blizzard. Whatever the weather, you can be comfortable knowing that your dog can go potty on a pee pad.

So we set about interviewing dog owners, trainers, daycare centers and pet shop employees who all had experience with pee pads to narrow down the selection.

When choosing the ideal pee pad for your pup, you want to be sure that it will contain every last drop of urine. – larger dogs need a pee pad that holds as much urine as possible.

Pee pads can also leak when you are carrying them to the trash can. In fact, this is probably when you least want a pee pad to leak. Any drips here will leave a trail of dog urine throughout your entire home.

A good dog pee pad needs to lock in moisture within its absorbent layers. If your dog steps on a urine-soaked pad, he can track urine across your entire house – dog pee footsteps on the carpet? No thanks!

Trust me when I say that tracking is something you want to avoid. Your entire home will smell like dog pee. It’s almost impossible to get rid of it without deep cleaning every inch of flooring.

This condensation can easily be confused with leaking. And while I would much prefer water on my floor than dog urine, it’s still a mess that needs to be cleaned up.

There are times when I hate this job. And this test is of one them. If you had asked my younger self what career I would be doing when I grew up, I never would have guessed it would involve sniffing dog pee..

There is nothing more frustrating than a gust of wind picking up your dog’s pee pad and blowing it across the room. Actually, there is. That same pee pad landing urine-side down on your floor.

For another user, we observed her dog peeing on the side of the pee pad. Half went on the floor, half went on the pad. The owner returned and came to the conclusion that the pad must have leaked. The problem was actually an inaccurate dog.

Perhaps in the funniest instance, we observed a user placed the pee pad upside down. When the dog went to the toilet, it did so on the water-proof underside and pee streamed onto the floor. Once again, the owner complained that the pee pad leaked.

In an other case, a dog owner expected the sticky tabs that held the pee pads on the ground to stop her dog from chewing on them. Her dog is a 150 lbs St. Bernard. No chance. She watched her dog effortlessly pluck the pee pad from the ground and chew on it – yet she blamed the pee pad for not working correctly.

Let’s face it, pee pads are perhaps one of the least complicated dog products around. This is why it surprised us that so many dog owners were using them incorrectly.

We suspect part of the problem is that many users are new to the dog world. They have a new puppy and don’t understand how products such as pee-pads are supposed to be used.

This was demonstrably false. Bulldogology Puppy Training Pads and Four Paws Wee-Wee pads both boasted 6 layers. However, one performed considerably better than the other.

To test this, we placed each pee pad with attractant alongside three other pee pads that did not contain attractant and see where our dogs would do their business. We repeated this 10 times with each brand.

Then theres the Spot X pee pads and Bullseye Pee pads. In the center of these pads is a marker at is infused with a pheromone attractant. Both of these pee pads claim to help a dog pee in the centre of the pee pad every single time.

A dog with an overbite has misaligned teeth. If the top jaw is longer than the lower jaw, this misalignment is called an overbite. Dogs should not be bred for this trait, but it can occur in puppies. Whether it’s a concern for your dog depends on the extent.

When your dog’s mouth is closed, all her teeth should fit together in a way that she can completely shut her mouth. The teeth are not so close they have contact, but not so far apart there are noticeable gaps. Unfortunately, misalignments can occur.

Sometimes, this misalignment is minor and considered cosmetic. This means that the dog would not qualify as a show dog but should not suffer from any health problems due to the overbite.

However, you will need to allow a veterinarian to examine the dog to confirm whether this is the case. In fact, X-rays may be required to tell the true extent of the overbite, and if it’s causing any problems. Unfortunately, in many cases, an overbite is a serious problem.

If a dog’s teeth do not align well, it can be very difficult for her to eat. In addition, it can be painful for the dog to close her mouth and the lower teeth may even cause damage to her upper gums or soft upper mouth.

This can lead to bleeding, sores and infections. If serious damage is done, food could end up passing through the upper mouth and into the nasal cavity. This puts your dog at risk for additional infections and breathing problems.

An overbite or underbite can even create issues with a dog’s posture and balance. Poor posture and balance can lead to further complications such as hip problems, ACL tears, arthritis and disc disease.

A dog with an overbite may also have an increased risk of wear on her teeth and periodontal disease. The crowding and closeness of the teeth can make them hard to clean and trap food particles, which can lead to teeth and gum disease. Even if you regularly clean your dog’s teeth at home, it can be challenging to avoid these issues for a dog with an overbite.

In fact, professional dental cleaning may be required to keep your dog’s mouth healthy. In severe cases, when the upper and lower teeth, particularly the canines, are too close together due to the overbite, it can result in fractures or dental interlock.

In most cases, when a dog is found to have an overbite, there is a hereditary history of the problem. This means that if either parent has an overbite, the puppies are more likely to have one as well. Be aware that this is not true in all cases. Even if both parents have perfect teeth, a puppy could still end up with an overbite. However, due to the role genetics play, some breeds are much more likely to suffer from overbites.

Dogs with a long and narrow muzzle are more likely to have an upper jaw longer than a lower jaw, resulting in an overbite. Dogs with this face structure are referred to as dolichocephalic dog breeds. These breeds include:

These dogs are not bred to have an overbite, which means there are plenty of dogs within these breeds that have perfectly formed teeth. However, due to their face shape, they are more likely to have the problem.

At the other end of the scale are dogs with a short face and wide muzzle. These dogs are more likely to have a lower jaw longer than an upper jaw, resulting in an underbite. Dogs with this face structure are referred to as brachycephalic dog breeds. These breeds include:

If you hear someone referring to an English bulldog overbite or a bulldog overbite, what they’re talking about is an underbite. However, this is just as problematic and serious as a bulldog with an overbite would be.

Underbites are accepted in the breed standards of Brachycephalic dogs, making it a much more common problem, compared with overbite dog breeds. Not only that, Brachycephalic dogs have multiple other problems related to their shortened muzzle. Some of these issues are:

If you look at the teeth of a very young dog, you will likely notice a puppy overbite. Puppies are naturally born with a longer upper jaw to allow them to nurse.

The lower jaw develops slower and typically goes through a growth spurt around the time a dog starts eating solid food. If you’re checking out a dog older than four weeks and you still see an apparent overbite, there may be an issue.

You may be wondering, “Will a puppy overbite correct itself?” In some cases, it will. Remember that most dogs are born with an overbite, which will go away by the time they are four to six weeks old.

Dogs that still have an overbite after six weeks of age may have it resolve naturally as they grow, particularly if it is a mild case. However, for dog overbite correction to be successful, it is critical to act while the puppy is still young.

If a dog has overbite issues between 16 weeks and seven months of age, a possible solution is dog braces. Another possibility is a special plate fitted in the mouth, like a human dental retainer.

In severe cases, tooth shortening may be required. At this age, it is unlikely to resolve the issue, but it can stop the bottom teeth from hitting and injuring the roof of the dog’s mouth.

After seven months of age, treatment becomes increasingly difficult. Braces and tooth shortening may still be possible, although they become more difficult for the dog to undergo.

In some cases, the only option at this point is removing teeth. If you realize your dog may have an issue, please talk to your veterinarian about how to help a dog with an overbite.

Brachycephalic dogs have been bred to have an underbite. Many of them will have it, even if it’s not yet apparent. The only way to avoid the health problems associated with overbites and underbites is to avoid breeds of dogs known for them.

Although a medium-sized muzzle could develop an overbite, it is much less common, particularly with healthy parents. Please think long and hard before you buy a dog with an overbite or an underbite, particularly a brachycephalic dog. These dogs must endure many discomfort, and their lives are unfortunately filled with many health problems. Life for them may be an uphill struggle.

Malocclusion refers to abnormal tooth alignment. Overbite (overshot, class two, overjet, mandibular brachygnathism) occurs when the lower jaw is shorter than the upper (Photo 6). There is a gap between the upper and lower incisors when the mouth is closed. The upper premolars are displaced at least 25 percent toward the front when compared to the lower premolars. An underbite (undershot, reverse scissor bite, prognathism, class 3) occurs when the lower teeth protrude in front of the upper jaw teeth (Photos 7, 8) If the upper and lower incisor teeth meet each other edge to edge, the occlusion is an even or level bite (Photo 11). When the upper and lower incisors do not overlap or even meet each other when the mouth is closed, the pet has an open bite . Anterior crossbite occurs when the canine and premolar teeth on both sides of the mouth occlude normally, but one or more of the lower incisors are positioned in front of the upper incisors (Photo 12). Anterior crossbite is the most common malocclusion, is not considered genetic or hereditary and is correctable. Posterior crossbite occurs when one or more of the premolar lower jaw teeth overlap the upper jaw teeth. This is a rare condition that occurs in the larger-nosed dog breeds. A wry mouth or wrybite occurs when one side of the jaw grows longer than the other. Lingually displaced mandibular (base narrow)canines occur when the mandibular canine teeth protrude inward causing penetrating damage to the upper palate. This condition is due to either persistent primary teeth or a too-narrow mandible and can usually be corrected through an orthodontic appliance (inclined plan) used to direct the teeth into normal occlusion. Rostrally deviated canine teeth occur when the maxillary or mandibular canine is directed forward and can usually be corrected by orthodontic movement, crown reduction or extraction.

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Ranked as 86th out of 197 dog breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club, the Rat Terrier is a tough, yet elegant, small-sized dog breed with an enormous personality.

This complete guide will review the breed’s history, personality, lifestyle requirements, and more. Learn why Rat Terriers were used for farm work, and how they got promoted from being farm dogs to loving companions in the blink of an eye.

The Rat Terrier is popularly known as a dog of many talents. However, the Rat Terrier is also a dog of many breeds. Perfected in America during the 19th century, the Rat Terrier is a blend of several ancestors – the now-extinct Old English White Terrier, the Smooth Fox Terrier, the Whippet, the Manchester Terrier, pinches of Italian Greyhounds, Bull Terriers, Chihuahuas, and Beagles.

They also brought Beagles, Chihuahuas, Italian Greyhounds, and Bull Terriers. These dogs began mixing with the Rat Terrier and ultimately gave birth to the Rat Terrier we now know, love and respect.

The Rat Terrier is a compact and sturdy, small to medium-sized dog with an overall look that radiates confidence, elegance, and fitness. The head is proportional to the body. The adorable dog has oval, small, and wide-set eyes, and triangular ears. Rat Terriers puppies are born with erect ears which usually drop down by the time the puppy opens its eyes. Sometimes the ears get erected later on and sometimes they stay dropped.

It takes minimal effort to maintain the Rat Terrier’s coat and keep it healthy. This dog sheds minimally throughout the year and more intensely twice per year during shedding seasons.

The ears are prone to wax buildup and require weekly checking and cleaning. As in all small dogs, tartar accumulation can be an issue unless the teeth are brushed more than three times per week. Finally, monthlynail trimmings are necessary to keep the nails short and prevent cracking and splinting.

The Rat Terrier is true to its Terrier ancestry – it is exceptionally smart and fun-loving, yet stubborn and independent. Unaware of its diminutive size, this tenacious, fearless, and alert dog makes an extremelygood watchdog.

The Rat Terrier is akid-friendly dog which makes it the perfect family companion, and extremely adaptable which makes it suitable for both house and apartment living. It is also suitable for dog owners of all ages – single professionals from families to senior citizens.

Bred to be a hard-working dog, and having the Terrier genes deep-wired in its genetic code, the Rat Terriers need about 30 to 60 minutes of vigorous physical activity per day.

Rat Terriers are also prone to environmental and food allergies, demodectic mange, and the three forms of incorrect bites – undershot bite, overshot bite, and wry mouth.

The Rat Terrier is known as the Houdini of the canine world. Crafting escape plans is something this small dog breed enjoys. Plus, if they starts to run, there is no chance of catching they. Therefore, all Rat Terriers must be obedience trained. Just to be on the safe side, they must also always wear a collar and a tag with the owner’s info. Finally, escape-proofing the backyard is a must.

A dog underbite is a dental or skeletal condition characterized by lower teeth that extend outward farther than the upper front teeth. This condition is also called a Class-3 malocclusion.

Malocclusion in dogs causes an abnormal alignment of the teeth, which results in an abnormal bite. A dog whose lower jaw is protruding and with the bottom teeth sticking out when at rest is known as an underbite dog.

Dental is probably the number one cause of malocclusion in dogs. Dental underbites occur when one or a couple of teeth are abnormally positioned within a normal facial skeletal structure, says Dr. Santiago Peralta, assistant professor of veterinary dentistry and oral surgery at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine (CUCVM).1

Dental underbite commonly happens when a baby tooth fails to fall out and is still present when a permanent tooth erupts. This causes crowding among teeth. Thus the abnormal position and underbite look in your dog.

This cause of underbite on dogs is the easiest to correct. According to Sacramento Veterinary Dental Services, the extraction of the primary teeth (interceptive orthodontics) should be performed as soon as possible to correct the problem.2

Dr. Nadine Fiani, assistant clinical professor of dentistry and oral surgery at CUCVM, says the skeletal type of malocclusion is where the dog’s facial structure is abnormal, causing the teeth not to fit together correctly.

Skeletal underbite in dogs may be more problematic than dental.An abnormal mouth bone structure may cause the canine teeth or maxillary incisors to make abnormal contact with the gums causing severe distress and damage to your pup’s teeth and gums. This could fasten the rapid onset of periodontal disease.

“[A dog underbite] will be acquired, whether because something happened during gestation or something happened during growth and development. The condition can develop due to an infection, trauma, or any other event that may alter maxillofacial [face and jaw] growth.”

A dog underbite may also be caused by jaw fractures that don’t heal properly. Trauma to the face and jaw caused by bites, accidents, or getting hit by a car can cause your dog to develop an underbite.

Fortunately, most dog underbites do not require any treatment. If the underbite is not causing damage to a dog’s mouth (i.e., preventing chewing or swallowing), there may be no need for treatment.

Any dog breed can develop an underbite. However, Class 3 malocclusions (dog underbite) are more common in brachiocephalic dog breeds, like Pugs and Bulldogs. However, an underbite can appear in any dog breed.

Most malocclusions are genetic. It’s important to have your dog’s bite evaluated for non-symmetrical jaw growth by a professional, especially if your dog is brachycephalic.

Upon examination, your vet should recommend treatment if necessary. In some cases, underbites don’t cause any irritation and are nothing to worry about. Be sure to request a dental radiograph (X-rays) for your pet. This will help identify most oral diseases in dogs.

Orthodontic treatments for dogs with underbites vary in price depending on the condition, the number of teeth involved, rounds of anesthesia, among other factors. The treatment cost of malocclusion in dogs usually fluctuates between $1,500 and $4,000, according to PetMD.

Just like adult dogs, puppies with underbites are prone to health issues. If your dog has an underbite, seek medical attention to determine if your puppy’s underbite is detrimental to his health.

An underbite is permanent and generally does not get worse with age. Dogs with underbites do not have many problems. However, the main issue you may encounter is that the teeth align and rub against each other and create a wound within the gums or hard palate.

Switching from hard to soft dog food is advised when living with a dog with an underbite. Some dogs with underbites tend to have trouble chewing their food. Nom Nom fresh dog food is a great alternative to aid when this happens and to put less stress on your dog’s teeth when eating his food.

When it comes to dog treats for dogs with underbites, consider these soft-baked dog treats by Merrick or American Journey’s soft chewy dog treat. You also want to provide a soft chewing dog toy like Chuckit! Roller Dog Toy. Its textured chenille fabric is gentle on dogs’ mouths.

Dogs whose teeth have been extracted or re-shaped must maintain a strict recovery period by only eating soft foods. Regular cleaning is needed to make sure the dog’s teeth continue to be healthy. Be sure to brush your dog’s teeth regularly.

This helps promote fresher breath and cleaner mouth reducing the chances of periodontal disease, which is more common in dogs with underbites and present in 80% of dogs have by age 3. No toothbrush required.

Finally, dogs with underbites often develop excessive tartar and calculus build-up. Hence, it’s also a good idea to target the build-up of plaque and tartar with a Dental Formula Water to leave your dog’s teeth and gums in tip-top condition.

A dog’s bite typically sets at ten months old. It is unlikely that an underbite will improve on its own at this point. However, there is a chance that your dog’s underbite can worsen due to poor oral hygiene and neglecting the condition.

Most dogs that show underbite symptoms as a young puppy will likely have a dog underbite for the rest of their lives. This misalignment can sometimes self-correct as your dog develops, but if your dog is genetically predisposed, it is highly unlikely for this to happen. Dog underbite can be corrected through surgery and braces in some cases.

Genetics, accidents, dental or skeletal problems can lead to underbites in dogs. In some breeds, underbites are the result of intentional breeding practices. Breeders breed underbite dogs specifically to engineer the type of jaw structure of a bulldog or a boxer.

An underbite malocclusion can be considered normal and healthy as long as the dog can chew and eat solid food comfortably and their bite is functional. Some breeds of dogs, usually flat-faced or brachycephalic, are naturally born with underbites. These breeds have been genetically bred to have a lower jaw that is slightly longer than the upper.

Bulldogs have brachycephalic skulls, which means their faces are pushed inward. As a result, the upper jaw is usually shorter than the lower — underbite. In some bulldogs, the underbite is minor, while in others, it is extreme that they find eating difficult.

As a responsible underbite dog parent, you need to be proactive in checking your dog regularly for any developments that could cause substantive health and dental issues so they can live a long and healthy life by your side.

If you plan to adopt or buy a genetically predisposed underbite dog, you need to understand and meet the special care and potential treatment requirements of such a sog.