overshot dog for sale

Hi, I"m due to collect my new labrador puppy in 1 week and the breeder has just told me that when the pups were taken to the vet on Friday she noted my pup had a "slightly overshot jaw". He was exactly 7 weeks old at this appointment and is otherwise very healthy.

An overbite might not seem like a serious condition for your dog, but severely misaligned teeth can lead to difficulty eating, gum injuries and bruising, bad breath and different types of dental problems, including tooth decay and gingivitis. Fortunately, there are ways to help fix the problem before it becomes irreversible.

An overbite is a genetic, hereditary condition where a dog"s lower jaw is significantly shorter than its upper jaw. This can also be called an overshot jaw, overjet, parrot mouth, class 2 malocclusion or mandibular brachynathism, but the result is the same – the dog"s teeth aren"t aligning properly. In time, the teeth can become improperly locked together as the dog bites, creating even more severe crookedness as the jaw cannot grow appropriately.

This problem is especially common in breeds with narrow, pointed muzzles, such as collies, shelties, dachshunds, German shepherds, Russian wolfhounds and any crossbred dogs that include these ancestries.

Small overbites often correct themselves as the puppy matures, and brushing the dog"s teeth regularly to prevent buildup can help keep the overbite from becoming more severe. If the dog is showing signs of an overbite, it is best to avoid any tug-of-war games that can put additional strain and stress on the jaw and could exacerbate the deformation.

If an overbite is more severe, dental intervention may be necessary to correct the misalignment. While this is not necessary for cosmetic reasons – a small overbite may look unsightly, but does not affect the dog and invasive corrective procedures would be more stressful than beneficial – in severe cases, a veterinarian may recommend intervention. There are spacers, braces and other orthodontic accessories that can be applied to a dog"s teeth to help correct an overbite. Because dogs" mouths grow more quickly than humans, these accessories may only be needed for a few weeks or months, though in extreme cases they may be necessary for up to two years.

If the dog is young enough, however, tooth extraction is generally preferred to correct an overbite. Puppies have baby teeth, and if those teeth are misaligned, removing them can loosen the jaw and provide space for it to grow properly and realign itself before the adult teeth come in. Proper extraction will not harm those adult teeth, but the puppy"s mouth will be tender after the procedure and because they will have fewer teeth for several weeks or months until their adult teeth have emerged, some dietary changes and softer foods may be necessary.

An overbite might be disconcerting for both you and your dog, but with proper care and treatment, it can be minimized or completely corrected and your dog"s dental health will be preserved.

One of the most disappointing things that can happen to a dog breeder is to have what appears to be an almost perfect specimen born and raised, only in the last few months of growth to have it become ‘undershot’. There are puppies born which develop this misfit jaw characteristic in their first few weeks of growth, others which develop it at three or four months and others not until after five months. And it is not necessarily those which are most seriously affected which show it early. One of the worst examples of this protruding lower jaw I have seen was in a cocker Spaniel which up until teething time had a perfect fitting set of teeth; the lower incisors fit right behind the upper, when the mouth was closed. When she was seven months old her lower incisors protruded three-quarters of an inch.

Is this character inherited? Most certainly yes, but in what strange manner, no one has yet been able to say with certainty. And there is the opposite character in which the lower jaw is too short for the upper, known as ‘overshot’. There is as yet no definite measurement for us to say whether the trouble lies in the mandible being too short or the upper jaw has grown too far forward.

Undershot Cocker Spaniels, in a closely bred strain, throws some light on the problem. Among my Cocker Spaniels there is not an undershot puppy or adult in the kennels. But every year a goodly number of undershot puppies appear. Therefore, one might reason that the character is recessive. But let us see. In the first place when they do appear, they do not necessarily appear in a twenty-five percent ratio. A very wonderful bitch named Charm, whose mouth was perfect, was mated to a dog name Red Brucie, whose mouth was also perfect. They produced four puppies every one of which was badly undershot, and one with a perfect mouth. Her name was Kathlyn. Kathlyn was bred to Champ, a son of Roderic. In all the puppies of Roderic, I have not had an undershot puppy, and he was bred to many bitches. But when Champ was mated to Kathryn on many occasions, there were always one or two undershot puppies. But their puppies were so fine that it paid to mate these dogs and destroy the undershot puppies. They had seven litters of which ten puppies were undershot. So here it would seem that the trait was recessive. But let us look further. Some undershot puppies have appeared from other parents. I mated a pair of these, which were not badly deformed and, of five puppies in a litter, not one was undershot. If undershot is a recessive, then all of these puppies should have been undershot.

Again, we have a case of character which runs in families, which seems to be inherited as a recessive, and yet does not behave that way consistently. There are all degrees of the defect. In fact, if we believe that dogs’ teeth to be a correct bite, should allow the lower incisors to slip behind the uppers, then an even bite of the front teeth is a little undershot, and possibly there has been so much selection for an even bite that dog breeders have unconsciously been breeding undershot dogs. If they are undershot a little, then a little addition to that little makes them appear badly undershot. And it is hard to draw the line.

An interesting study in a strain of long-haired Dachshunds was made by Gruenberg and Lea. Their dogs were so badly overshot that the canine teeth of the under jaw (mandible) occluded behind the upper teeth, instead of in front of them. The tooth size was reduced by the factor and the lower jaw appears to be shortened, and the upper jaw lengthened. This is seen in many breeds. I know a strain of Borzoi which was so badly affected that some of the puppies could not eat out of a pan normally. Gruenberg and Lea found, upon conducting some matings that this trait was inherited as a simple recessive.

The lower jaw or mandible sometimes is much too short. Phillips found this condition to be a recessive, with modifying factors, so that when the maximum expression of these factors occurs the jaw is so short as to cause the death of the dog.

The Chihuahua is a balanced, graceful dog of terrier-like demeanor, weighing no more than 6 pounds. The rounded “apple” head is a breed hallmark. The erect ears and full, luminous eyes are acutely expressive. Coats come in many colors and patterns, and can be long or short. The varieties are identical except for coat. Chihuahuas possess loyalty, charm, and big-dog attitude. Even tiny dogs require training, and without it this clever scamp will rule your household like a little Napoleon. Compact and confident, Chihuahuas are ideal city pets. They are too small for roughhousing with kids, and special care must be taken in cold weather, but Chihuahuas are adaptable—as long as they get lots of quality time in their preferred lap.

Likenesses of Chihuahua-like dogs decorate the artifacts of lost civilizations around the world. Trading among ancient cultures was more widespread than commonly assumed, so it is no surprise that similar dog types took root in far-flung places. How the Chihuahua type first came to the peoples of Mexico, however, is a secret of prehistory. We do know that when the Toltecs held sway in Mexico about a thousand years ago, their breed of choice was the Techichi, a larger, heavier ancestor of today’s Chi. The Aztecs conquered the Toltecs in the 12th century. Historians credit the Aztecs with refining the Techichi into a smaller, lighter dog. By the time Spanish conquistadors toppled Aztec civilization in the 1500s, the Techichi was so integral to Aztec culture it was considered one of Montezuma’s fabled treasures, once presumed lost forever after the conquest of Cortez. But the hardy little dogs lived on in remote villages and, in the mid-1800s, when Americans began to take an interest in the breed, they found many specimens in the State of Chihuahua. So it was that this survivor of two lost civilizations gained worldwide fame as the Chihuahua. The first AKC-registered Chihuahua, a little guy named Beppie, was recorded in 1908. The famous bandleader Xavier Cugat did much to popularize Chihuahuas in the 1940s and 50s. More recently, these natural performers stole the show in “Beverly Hills Chihuahua,” “Legally Blonde,” and “Sex and the City.” The minor-league baseball team of El Paso, Texas, is named the Chihuahuas.

A high-quality dog food appropriate to the dog’s age (puppy, adult, or senior) will have all the nutrients the breed needs. Some Chihuahuas are prone to getting overweight, so watch your dog’s calorie consumption and weight level. Treats can be an important aid in training, but giving too many can cause obesity. Give table scraps sparingly, if at all, especially avoiding cooked bones and foods with high fat content. Learn about which human foods are safe for dogs, and which are not. Check with your vet if you have any concerns about your dog’s weight or diet.

The two coat varieties of the Chihuahua have slightly different grooming needs. The smooth-coat Chihuahua will need only occasional brushing and regular baths to look dapper, while the longhaired variety should have his coat brushed at least once a week to avoid any tangles or mats. Both varieties should have their nails trimmed regularly. Good dental care is necessary and should include brushing your dog’s teeth, and the vet might also recommend treats designed as part of a tooth-care program. Check the Chihuahua’s ears regularly, and remove any excess wax or debris to avoid ear infections.

The Chihuahua loves to run and play and can usually get enough exercise in a very small space. Simply trotting around following their people is usually enough exercise for this happy breed. Short, slow walks will keep your dog in good weight and condition. Avoid overexerting the Chihuahua. If your dog is panting and working hard to keep up, it’s time to pick him up and carry him home.

The Chihuahua is a very alert little dog of high intelligence. He is eager to please his humans and responds well to positive training practices. Chihuahuas seem well aware of how cute they are and learn how to get their way. From the very beginning you must enforce the fact that you are in charge. Never allow your Chihuahua puppy to do anything that will be unacceptable in an adult. They can have a bit of a “terrier” temperament, so a firm but gentle hand is necessary when training. They can excel in obedience training and other canine sports.

The majority of Chihuahuas are healthy little dogs, but there are some genetic issues that can affect the breed. You should choose your dog from a breeder who routinely does genetic health screenings on all breeding stock to ensure that the puppies they produce are as genetically sound as possible. Some of the issues that can possibly affect the Chihuahua include potential heart problems (patent ductus arteriosus, mitral valve disease), eye disease, and patellar luxation (loose kneecaps). Idiopathic epilepsy is also known to occur in the breed.

Undershot is a class III malocclusion that is also referred to as mandibular prognathism, maxillary brachygnathism, mandibular mesioclusion, or an underbite. This malocclusion is characterized by a shorter upper jaw and a longer lower jaw, resulting in lower teeth that are in front of the upper teeth. While this condition is normal for some breeds, such as Bulldogs, in many breeds it is unusual. An undershot jaw occurs when the lower jaw grows faster than normal and becomes longer than the upper jaw, and is usually evident around 8 weeks of age in puppies. This misalignment can cause soft tissue trauma, such as to the lips. When the incisors meet instead of fitting next to each other, it is called a level bite. When the malocclusion causes the lower incisors to be placed in front of the upper incisors, it is called a reverse scissors bite.

The cause of overshot and undershot jaws in dogs relate to the increased or decreased rate of growth of the upper and lower jaws in relation to one another. This can occur due to a: Genetic disorder Trauma; Systemic infection ;Nutritional disorder; Endocrine disorder; Abnormal setting of puppy teeth; Early or late loss of puppy teeth.

After a quick physical exam, your vet may have to sedate your dog in order to perform a thorough oral exam. This will assess your dog’s skull type and teeth location in relation to the teeth on the opposite jaw. Often, the placement of the upper and lower incisors in relation to one another can determine what type of malocclusion your dog has. Your vet will note any areas of trauma due to teeth striking those areas, and any cysts, tumors, abscesses, or remaining puppy teeth that may be present. A dental X-ray can also help to assess the health of the jaws and teeth. These diagnostic methods will lead to a diagnosis of an overshot or undershot jaw in your dog.

Treatment of a jaw misalignment will depend on the severity of the condition. If your dog has a misalignment, but can still bite and chew food without problems, no treatment may be needed. If the misalignment is caught early in a puppy’s life, it may only be temporary and may correct itself over time. However, there are times when intervention may be needed. If your puppy’s teeth are stopping the normal growth of his jaws, then surgery to remove those puppy teeth may be performed. This may allow the jaws to continue to grow, but will not make them grow. For older dogs who are experiencing pain and trauma due to misaligned jaws and teeth, oral surgery is generally performed to extract teeth that are causing trauma, to move teeth so that they fit, or to create space for a misaligned tooth to occupy. Other therapies include crown reductions or braces.

If your dog is genetically programmed to have an overshot or undershot jaw, intervention can help, but will not slow or stop the abnormal growth of either jaw. Prevent jaw misalignments in puppies by not breeding dogs who have overshot or undershot jaws.

Enzo is a short-haired Havanese and he was born with his lower jaw shorter than the upper jaw. This is called an Overbite, also referred to as an Overshot Jaw, a Parrot Mouth or Mandibular Brachygnathism. This malocclusion is a genetic change and can be seen in a number of breeds, oftentimes collie related breeds and dachshunds. Occasionally this change happens because of differences in the growth of the upper and lower jaws, and in many cases it doesn’t cause any significant problems other than cosmetically.

Once extracted, each deciduous canine tooth was about 2 centimeters long; the roots were about 1.5 centimeters. Many people are surprised to learn that the root of a dog’s tooth is so large – 2/3 to 3/4 of the tooth is below the gumline. This is one reason why it is so important to use radiographs to evaluate teeth on a regular basis, not just in a growing puppy. Adult teeth can, and frequently do, have problems that are only visible with a radiograph.

I recently received two emails from police K9 handlers who had similar tracking problems. Both had dogs that ran tracks but blew by the corners. They both wanted to know what to do. The following is what I recommended.

There is nothing wrong with a dog running on a track as long as the dog has scent. In fact, in many cases, unless the dog can track at a run, they will never catch up to the suspect.

Bottom line is: dogs that run when tracking catch more bad guys than foot-step-trackers. By foot-step-trackers I mean the style of tracking seen in Schutzhund or IPO.

Dogs that run will almost always overshoot corners. It"s about impossible not to. With experience, a well-trained dog will give a noticeable track-loss indication and start to circle. This must become a trained reaction for track loss.

Our goal is to teach the dog to give a clear signal for track loss when they overrun a corner. It"s the handler"s responsibility to recognize that signal. This should be something that is learned on training tracks.

When handlers recognize track-loss within 20 to 30 feet past a corner, the handler can help the dog (through circling) figure out which way the suspect went. Brand new police service dogs can be taught track-loss in at 50 training tracks. Dogs that have problems because of a poor foundation in tracking may need 150 to 200 tracks. Bottom line is it"s always quicker to train a behavior correctly from the beginning than having to go back and retrain a problem out of the dog.

Handlers must also lay their own tracks for this work and those tracks need to be laid INTO THE WIND. They have to know exactly where the corners are. They also need to know when a dog overshoots the corner, it 100% does not have any track scent. By tracking into the wind you know this.

Most K9 handlers know that they need to kick in the corner, usually 3 or 4 feet before and 3 or 4 feet after each corner. That way the odor cone is always stronger at the corner. Some dog"s pick this up quickly and take corners on their own.

When that happens, the trainer stops kicking in the corners. They may fade to only kicking 3 or 4 feet after the corner and then after a number of training tracks, they fade it altogether. This may be the point when some dogs have corner problems because they have been waiting for the stronger "odor cone," and when it doesn"t come, they blow right on past the corner.

When the dog blows a corner, the handler needs to really focus and watch his dog"s head. You know there is no scent there because of the wind direction. In the beginning, the handler stops on the corner and lets the dog work out the problems.

If the dog continues to hunt for the track, have patience and let him. If he wants to pull straight ahead, don"t go with him. If the track goes to the right and he wants to go left, don"t go with him, just hold the leash and let him run in a circle to the left and bring him around until he cuts the track going to the right. Should the dog cut the first leg and want to track to the corner again, let him. It"s part of the learning experience.

One of the things an experienced dog handler will talk about is the head snap when his dog cuts a track. That happens when the dog is moving pretty quickly and he cuts across a track.

Handlers can actually teach head-snaps by not going to the exact beginning spot where they laid their training track. Rather, have the dog run in a circle and cut the track 5 or 10 yards down the first leg. Most of the time, a K9 handler never knows exactly where the track started. In addition, by the time he or she gets there, other officers have trampled the scene. So the K9 handler is forced to go beyond the contamination and cut the track.

So back to corners. Our goal is to teach our dog that when it gets track loss, it circles to cut the track after a corner. If the handler has worked a head-snap on his "starts", this will be easier for the dog and handler at corners.

As long as the dog is working, handlers should remain quiet at a track-loss. If the dog is searching giving multiple "FIND IT" commands does nothing other than make the dog nervous.

In the beginning, don"t be too concerned if the dog struggles. As long as you know exactly where the corner is, you are in control. The natural tendency is to help the dog. Handlers that help by pointing out the corner end up with a dog that gets in trouble and expects the handler to show him where to go. So your goal is for your dog to become a problem solver.

If the dog wants to pull past the corner in the direction of the first leg, don"t go with him. Stand your ground. This becomes a subtle statement for the dog. You"re not showing him which way the track goes, but you are telling him that you know he can"t smell it (because you"re going into the wind). Your goal is to teach him to work out the problem of "WHERE DID THE TRACK GO?"

So when the dog lifts his head, quietly ask him to "find it". See if he has the drive to look on his own. Let him struggle a little. That"s how he learns.

If he flat stops, then you have to circle and cut the track. When we lay tracks we use articles. We will always leave an article 30 to 40 feet after a corner. This is a subtle way of rewarding a dog after a corner.

How you handle the dog when you stop at corners is important. I would use my voice to ASK HIM to look, not COMMAND him to look. Encourage the dog to find the track but not to the point of distraction. Too much from you and you become the problem.

Just remember that your goal during this period is not to get to the end of the track but for you to learn your dogs "track-loss indication" and for the dog to learn to circle when it overshots the corners.

These training tracks (into the wind) need to continue until the handler feels confident in recognizing a track-loss signal from his dog. Once that happens he can change things up. Tracks can be laid with the wind at your back and when that"s good the handler needs to move on to "unknown tracks".

If you want to learn more about Police K9 tracking (or Search & Rescue Tracking), I recommend that you get the set of DVDs or future online courses that I did with the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. The RCMP are hands-down the best tracking dog trainers in North American and even in the world.

Ed Frawley is the founder of Leerburg. He has been training dogs since the 1950s. For 30 years, Ed bred working bloodline German Shepherds and has produced over 350 litters. During this time, Ed began recording dog training videos and soon grew an interest in police service dogs. His narcotic dogs have been involved in over 1,000 narcotics searches resulting in hundreds of arrests in the state of Wisconsin. Ed now solely focuses on producing dog training courses with renowned dog trainers nationwide. If you want to learn more about Ed, read about his history here.

It all depends on what you want your pup for, if its just a pet then the overshot mouth shouldnt be a bother so long as it doesnt interfear with breathing/eating/drinking ect.

My viz is quite undershot & i bought her at a reduced rate because of this "fault" it doesnt stop her from working & to be honest i am glad that she is undershot as if she wasnt i know that the breeder would have kept her & we would have missed out on having one of the best dogs i"ve ever had :D it hasnt stopped her from giving us as much love back as we give her :D

I have seen some over shot mouths at a young age come right by the time they have matured & its normaly the overshot ones that tend to come right ( not saying all will ! )

Even though dogs can’t get cavities, they are still prone to gum disease, bite disorders, and tartar build-up. Gum disease can be serious for dogs, playing into a slew of other health problems, like heart disease, kidney disorders, and even organ failure. Like humans, dogs need routine brushings and appointments for professional dental cleanings.

In general, if you own a small dog, you should be ready to take them to more veterinary dental check-ups. Typically, dog breeds that are shorter than your knee are more likely to develop periodontal disease.

More specifically, if you own any of the dogs breeds mentioned in this blog, we recommend taking them in for regular dental checkups, and following steps at home to promote healthy teeth and gums.

The Collie is a popular dog breed that is often affected by overbites. Overbites in dogs, similar to overbites in humans, occur when the lower jaw is abnormally short, especially in comparison to the upper jaw.

Typically, we will notice if your Collie has an overbite as a puppy. In most instances, we will recommend orthodontic intervention, in which we perform a treatments while the dog is young, and the facial structure is still growing. In some instances, we will need to extract all of the baby teeth in the lower dental arch to prevent discomfort and aid in forward growth of the lower jaw.

If your Collie’s dentition problems are diagnosed as an adult, we will work on treating the secondary issues associated with overbites, like uneven wear and gum damage from tooth-on-tooth impact. Depending on how advanced your dog’s overbite is, we might suggest the orthodontic movement of teeth, crown shortening with pulp therapy, or tooth extractions.

Your Pug’s squashed-in face might melt your heart, but unfortunately, your Pug’s facial structure also puts it at risk of developing gum disease. Other breeds in the same category as Pugs, like Shih Tzus, Bulldogs, and Boston Terriers, are all known for malocclusion.

A malocclusion occurs when their teeth don’t line up correctly. While the appearance of a malocclusion in a dog might be endearing, sometimes the bite misalignment can cause pain and trauma when the teeth harshly close on one another.

Abnormal crowding also makes it harder to keep teeth clean, when you try to brush their teeth at home. If you own a Pug, or another one of the flat nosed dogs mentioned above, then you should make sure you take them into regular professional dental cleaning. During a dental cleaning, we can clean the hard to reach nook and crannies and under the gumline, while your pet is safely under anesthesia.

One of the greatest things about having a little lap dog, like a Chihuahua, is that they are small, like permanent puppies. Unfortunately, their small mouths mean that they have less room to fit all of 42 of their teeth. Chihuahuas often suffer from overcrowded teeth, plaque buildup, and gum disease.

We mentioned earlier that small dogs are the most likely to suffer from dental disease. There are also some large dog breeds, like Boxers, Great Danes, and Mastiffs, that have gum disorders.

These dogs often suffer from gingival hyperplasia, a disorder caused by overgrown gums. Gingival hyperplasia is an inflammatory response due to excess plaque, and in some cases as a side effect to medication. You can minimize this issue by taking your Boxer pup for routine dental checkups, in which we will decrease the plaque in the mouth and detect gum problems, before they get out of control.

Are you worried your pet isn’t receiving adequate dental care? At Madison Animal Care Hospital, we offer everything from basic to advanced dental services. We will be able to diagnose and treat your dog for dental problems, before they cause your pet serious issues. Call us today to learn more at 256-461-7575.

Normally, a puppy will have 28 baby teeth once it is six months old. By the time it reaches adulthood, most dog breeds will have 42 teeth. A misalignment of a dog"s teeth, or malocclusion, occurs when their bite does not fit accordingly. This may begin as the puppy"s baby teeth come in and usually worsens as their adult teeth follow.

If problems with the palate persist, a fistula may result and become infected. In cases of misaligned teeth (or malocclusion), the dog may have difficulty chewing, picking up food, and may be inclined to eat only larger pieces. They are also prone to tartar and plaque build-up.

With an overbite, the upper jaw is longer than the lower one. When the mouth is closed, a gap between the upper and lower incisors occurs. Puppies born with an overbite will sometimes have the problem correct itself if the gap is not too large. However, a dog"s bite will usually set at ten months old. At this time improvement will not happen on its own. Your pet"s overbite may worsen as the permanent teeth come in because they are larger and can damage the soft parts of the mouth. Teeth extractions are sometimes necessary.

You can download this article on puppy teeth problems as an ebook free of charge (and no email required) through the link below. This comprehensive article covers such topics as malocclusions, overbites, underbites and base narrow canines in dogs. Special emphasis is placed on early intervention – a simple procedure such as removing retained puppy teeth can save many problems later on.

One of the biggest misconceptions is that dental problems don’t need the same treatment in animals as they do in humans. Nothing could be further from the truth! Dogs’ teeth have the same type of nerve supply in their teeth as we do, so anything that hurts us will hurt them as well.

All dogs, whether they are performance dogs or pets, deserve to have a healthy, pain-free mouth. Oral and dental issues frequently go undiagnosed in dogs, partly because the disease is hidden deep inside the mouth, and partly because dogs are so adept at hiding any signs of pain. As a pack animal, they don’t want to let the rest of the pack (including us!) know they have a problem, as anything that limits their usefulness to the pack may be grounds for exclusion. This is a survival instinct. Dogs will suffer in silence for as long as they can, and they only stop eating when they cannot bear the pain any longer.

This article has been written to help you understand how oral and dental problems develop in puppies, what the implications of these issues are, and what options are available to you and your pup to achieve the best outcomes in terms of overall health, comfort and performance. You don’t need to read it from top to bottom, as your dog would need to be pretty unlucky to need all the advice included here!

If you would like to speak to me for advice on your dog, please feel very welcome to call me on 1300 838 336, or you can email me on support@ sydneypetdentistry.com.au.

baby) teeth which erupt between 3-8 weeks of age. These are replaced by the adult (permanent) teeth between 4-7 months of age. Adult dogs should have a total of 42 teeth. The difference in the number of deciduous and adult teeth arises because some adult teeth (the molars and first premolars) don’t have a deciduous version.

The bulk of the tooth is made up of dentine (or dentin), a hard bony-like material with tiny dentinal tubules (pores) running from the inside to the outside. In puppies, the dentine is relatively thin, making the tooth more fragile than in an older dog. The dentine thickens as the tooth matures throughout life.

Crowded upper incisor teeth in an English Bulldog, with trapping of food and debris. There is an extra incisor present which is exacerbating the problem.

‘Base narrow’ canines (Linguoverted or ‘inverted’ canines) are a relatively common and painful problem in Australian dogs. The lower canines erupt more vertically or ‘straight’ than normal (instead of being tilted outwards), and strike the roof of the mouth. This causes pain whenever the dog chews or closes its mouth, and can result in deep punctures through the palatal tissues (sometimes the teeth even penetrate into the nasal cavity!). In our practice in Sydney, we see this most commonly in Staffordshire Bull Terriers and Labrador Retrievers.

Lance’ canines (Mesioverted, hard  or ‘spear’ canines) occur when an upper canine erupts so it is pointing forward, like a tusk. This is seen most commonly in Shetland Sheepdogs, and can lead to lip trauma and displacement of the lower canine tooth (which cannot erupt to sit in its normal position in front of the upper canine).

Class II malocclusions (‘overshot’) arise when the lower jaw is relatively short compared with the upper jaw. This type of occlusion is NEVER considered normal and can result in significant and painful trauma to the upper gums, hard palate and teeth from the lower canines and incisors.

When the upper and lower teeth are locked against each other, the independent growth of either jaw is severely limited. This can occasionally work in the dog’s favour, for example if the lower jaw is slightly long compared with the upper jaw, the corner incisors may lock the lower canines in position behind them, limiting any further growth spurts of the lower jaw.

Retained or persistent deciduous (puppy) teeth can also cause malocclusions by forcing the erupting adult teeth into an abnormal position. As previously mentioned, this may be a genetic trait, but can also occur sporadically in any breed of dog.

The basic rule is that every dog deserves a pain-free, functional mouth. If there is damage occurring to teeth, or oral tissues, we need to alleviate this, to allow the dog to live happily and healthily. If there is no functional problem and no trauma occurring, then treatment is simply not required.

Sometimes the hardest part is determining whether the problem is in fact causing pain. As we know, dogs are very adept at masking signs of oral pain, and will and will continue to eat despite real pain. Puppies, in particular, don’t know any better if they have had pain since their teeth first erupted very early in life.

The overriding aim is always to give the dog a healthy, pain-free and functional mouth. Sometimes this will result in a ‘normal’ mouth, whereas in other cases, this might not be realistically achievable.

While some basic advantages and disadvantages of the different treatment options are outlined here, it is very important to seek specific advice for your individual dog, as no two mouths are exactly the same, and an individual bite assessment will help us determine the best course of action together. You can contact us anytime.

Extraction of lower canine teeth – the roots of these teeth make up about 70% of the front of the jaw, and so there is a potential risk of jaw fracture associated with their removal. Some dogs also use these teeth to keep the tongue in position, so the tongue may hang out after extraction. ‡

Crown reduction is commonly performed to treat base narrow canines, or class II malocclusions, where the lower canines are puncturing the hard palate. Part of the tooth is surgically amputated, a dressing inside the tooth to promote healing and the tooth is sealed with a white filling (just like the ones human dentists use). This procedure MUST be performed under controlled conditions as it exposes the highly sensitive pulp tissue. If performed incorrectly, the pulp will become infected and extremely painful for the rest of the dog’s life.

While the dog may lose some function, this is far preferable to doing nothing (this condemns the dog to a life of pain). Indeed, unless released into the wild, dogs do well even if we need to extract major teeth (canines and carnassials), as they have the humans in their pack to do all the hunting and protecting for them.

The aim of any veterinary procedure should always be to improve the welfare of the patient, so the invasiveness of any treatment needs to be weighed up against the likely benefits to the dog. Every animal deserves a functional, comfortable bite, but not necessarily a perfect one. Indeed, some malocclusions (particularly those involving skeletal abnormalities) can be difficult to correct entirely.

In addition to the welfare of the individual dog, both veterinarians and breeders need to consider the overall genetic health of the breed. Both the Australian National Kennel Club and (in New South Wales where our practice is situated) the Veterinary Practitioners’ Board stress that alteration of animals to conceal genetic defects for the purpose of improving their value for showing (and breeding) is not ethical.

The bottom line is that, while all dogs will have multiple treatment options available, and in some cases the occlusion can be corrected to the point of being ‘good for show’, advice should definitely be sought about the likelihood of a genetic component prior to embarking upon this, as the consequences for the breed can be devastating if such animals (or their close relatives) become popular sires or dams.

Sometimes a tooth is congenitally missing, that is it has never developed. While dogs can physically cope well with missing teeth, in some breeds this is considered a serious fault, and will severely affect the chances of the dog being successful in the show ring.

We cannot rely on dogs to tell us when they have oral pain. It is up to us to be vigilant and watch for signs of developing problems. Train your pup to allow handling and examination of the mouth from an early age. We will be posting some videos of oral examination tips shortly, watch out in your email inbox for this. Things can change quickly – check their teeth and bite formation frequently as they grow.

Remember, early recognition and treatment is crucial if we want to keep your dog happy and healthy in and out of the show ring. The sooner we treat dental problems, the higher the chance of getting the best possible results with the least invasive treatment.