arduino rotary table for dummies brands

The stepper motor will have to be sized for your application. I used a small 3” rotary table and don’t plan on using it for anything other than indexing so a high torque NEMA17 did the job. If you’re working with a larger rotary table or want to be able to use it as a 4th axis in the mill you will want at least a NEMA23 size motor. You will have to reach out to the forum for help with selection.

Ok get out the anti-identity thief, pre-paid Visa card and order all the bits, wait for a month and a half for Canada Customs/Canada Post to figure out it isn’t anything nasty and you’re ready to begin.

You’ll have to install the Arduino software (IDE) on your computer. Spark Fun has a good step by step tutorial for completing the install. https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/installing-arduino-ide

I recently read an article in Model Engineers Workshop Magazine (December 2016 issue 249) for adding a stepper motor drive to a rotary table. I don′t use my small Vertex rotary table very often but I thought this might be a useful project to learn a little about stepper motors and digital control of machinery. The article by Carl Wilson describes how to use an Arduino micro-controller to control the rotary division process. Much of the coding is contained in another article in Digital Machinist by Gary Liming. So no original thinking by me here, just a rehash of other engineers good work. All the links and useful information can be found in the Glossary at the end.

Prepping the table can be as simple as doing nothing, a complete strip down and re-build with thrust washers and the like or somewhere in between. There are a few articles on the web giving details (see glossary). Software setup and programming the Arduino is the quickest part and if you use Gary Liming′s software without alteration, the programming takes just a few seconds. Assembling the electronics is mainly about fitting the bits into the box and requires a bit of inginuity to fix things in place. The boards are fairly flimsy and things, like the display, tend not to be square or flat, I found.

The stepper motor mounting I made from three parts and assembled with Loctite and screws. I have no doubt there are other ways of making this or a suitable motor mount could be found ready made and adapted to fit the table. You will probably want to test things as you you go along rather than leave everything to the end. I discovered I had a faulty motor driver, easier to deal with whilst still uncased. I don′t think it makes makes any difference which order things are done.

This is covered elsewhere on the web in some detail so I have just made a few notes that may be of interest. Dismantling the table is quite straightforward, just look for allen headed grub screws at the bottom of deep holes. The notes refer to my 4" Vertex table.

Start off by removing the handle, the table locking clamps and the worm engagement lock. The handle is just one screw but watch out for the shaft key which is small and easily lost. Photo (2) shows the board I made to store the table with a cutout for the handle. The stepper motor will also need a similar storage solution. I used pliers and some cardboard to protect the finish to unscrew the table clamp handles. Remove the engagement lever and collar, two grub screws and it slides off, this is the part that the motor connector will attach to, it has three ready tapped holes for when used with division plates.

Remove the cam shaft securing and adjusting collar (4), four cap screws. Remove the grub screw that sets the worm engagement depth, found at the bottom of a deep hole (5). The worm shaft and cam bearing can now be removed as one unit, rotate the table and it will push the spindle out.

Turn the table upside down and remove the table bearing and adjustment plate (6), four cap screws. The table can now be removed, mine was pretty clean (7) not having been used much, there wasn′t even that much grease. Now that everything is apart it can all be cleaned re-greased and re-assembled. The worm drive shaft can be slid out of the cam adjuster by removing the collar, it is a ground shaft with an oilway and a very good fit in the cam adjuster.

Other than adjustment to remove backlash I didn′t make any changes to my rotary table, it was in fact pretty good before I started. If you have an older well used table it may take a bit more cleaning to remove old grease and any swarf that may have found it′s way inside.

The collar on the worm shaft acts as a thrust bearing and needs to be adjusted so that it is free to rotate but has no end play. You can just make out in photo (8) that there is a washer below it, this is a wave spring washer and provides a bit of tension to restrict the lateral motion. If you tighten the collar too much the shaft will lock up. Once set-up the collar is locked in place with two grub screws. The screws tighten directly onto the threaded portion of the worm shaft, this had caused some damage to the thread which needed cleaning up with a needle file. I made a couple of brass pads from some shim (9) (cut out with a leather punch) to prevent more damage, they are a bit thin but there isn′t room for much more.

Other parts worth note are the cam shaft retainer / bearing (4) and the table retainer / bearing (6). These both feature four cap screws which bolt the item in place and four grub screws which act as jack-screws to prevent clamping the rotating part. When reassembling it is worth adjusting these carefully to limit the table lifting whilst still turning freely and likewise to prevent the cam shaft moving in and out. I noticed with the table bearing / retainer that there was a noticeable stiff spot so it is worth rotating the table through a full 360° whilst adjusting. The cam shaft could be locked in place if you think there is no need to disengage the worm gear. Last bit is to set the worm engagement, this is controlled by a grub screw at the side (5) which engages with a slot in the cam shaft to prevent rotation. If you undo the grub screw and fully engage the worm it will be very difficult to turn, tighten the grub screw just enough so that the worm turns easily with a minimum of backlash.

Not much to this really but first you will need to go to the Arduino website and download the Integrated Development Environment (IDE) software. This is basically a fairly lightweight program that runs on your PC (Windows, Mac or Linux) and allows you to edit programs (sketches in Arduino speak) and upload to the Arduino board. You will also need to download Gary Liming′s software. Once the software is downloaded installation is straightforward. The Arduino IDE is self-installing from an exe file in Windows. Gary Liming′s programs come as a zip file which needs un-zipping to a folder. Once unzipped, double click on the "Stepindex23.ino" file and it will start the Arduino IDE and load the program.

All being well you should now have a screen like something like those above. Click on the image to read the text. Affix the LCD shield to the Uno making sure that all the pins are in the right places and none of the connectors is bent. Plug the Uno into the PC using a USB cable, often supplied with the board. The Uno will be powered by the USB connection. First thing to do is go to the "Tools" menu (10) and set the type of board. All being well the software should then report that it is talking to the Uno, bottom right of the IDE, something like "Arduino/Genuino UNO on COM4". You should also be able to click on the "Port" section of the menu to assign a COM port. If this isn′t working and the Port section is greyed out it may be driver related.

If you are using a genuine Uno board (possibly some clones) the USB driver is loaded with the IDE and once the board is selected in the menu everything works. Some copies of the the Uno use a different USB driver chip and the driver needs installing manually (see Glossary for link). Once the correct driver is installed the Port section of the Tools menu should be enabled and you can then select which COM port to use. (Note if you use a different USB port next time around you need to reselect the COM port). Click the upload button to copy the program onto the Uno, thats it. The program will auto-run and briefly display the start-up screen before waiting at the main menu for input. Chances are you won"t see anything as the LCD shield contrast probably needs setting, twiddle the multi-turn pot (variable resistor) above the display until the screen comes to life.

Arduino micro-controllers are mainly programmed using the C++ programming language or at least a subset of C++, so the programs are fairly understandable for basic editing. The first few lines of the program (11) are used to set parameters used later. These can be adjusted now, the program is well commented, or left until later when everything is assembled. You may wish to alter gear ratios or even remove some items. There is more help in the readme files that come in the program zip-file. If you are a C++ programmer the world is your oyster, the menu items can be moved around or even removed if you don′t need a particular function. You may wish to experiment with some of the delay timings to help de-bounce the keys but this is probably better done during final testing.

The parts are shown (12) above and are the Arduino Uno, the LCD shield, the cable gland, TB6560 stepper driver, switches, plug, socket and power supply. The circuit boards are all pretty flimsy and the mounting holes are very close to the edges. The LCD shield has a seperate smaller board for the LCD soldered on top and the two boards were not particularly parallel. There is also a multi-turn variable resistor on the board which cunningly sticks up higher than the LCD face. If you are adept with a soldering iron it can be re-positioned on the other side of the PCB. I solved the non-flush pot problem by using a 1.5mm clear polycarbonate sheet between the box lid and LCD with a small cutout for the variable resistor.

I fitted as much as I could to the box lid, only the mains in and stepper out are fitted to the box. The display needs a cutout in the lid as do the three switches and a number of 3mm holes for various mounting screws. Once I had worked out the position of all the bits I marked the inside of the box lid for the position of the LCD and switch cutouts. I set this up on the mill and used a 5mm slot drill to remove the cutouts, the ABS machines very easily. I fixed the lid to an off-cut of MDF with woodscrews through the mounting holes, I also used double sided tape to make sure nothing moved. A couple of T-nuts and studs fixed the MDF to the mill table (13). With hindsight the double sided tape was overkill, it took me longer to get it off the lid than it did to do the machining. The corners of the switch cutouts I filed square, I drilled the various mounting bolt holes by hand as I did for the other round holes opening them up as necessary with a taper reamer and file.

The diagram (16) above shows the inter-connections between the three main parts. Check carefully when soldering to the Uno and the LCD shield as the pins are close together, also check with data sheets that all the wires go to the right places. The diagram does not show the switch leads nor are the board connections in their exact positions (Diagram NOT To Scale). I found it easier to solder a short length of coloured wire to each location on the Uno / LCD shield whilst all the boards were out of the case. I made a note of which colour wire went where and then bolted the boards in place. The wires can then be grouped together, switch leads, control leads and power. I used some cable ties to try and keep things neat(ish) and then trimmed the wires to length ready to connect up. To extend the switches from the LCD shield I soldered a wire to the back of each miniature push button on the board. You need one wire for each switch plus one common wire. I just used a multimeter to find the right solder terminal on the switches.

I have included a drawing that shows how I made the mount, you may need to adjust dimensions to suit the components you have. I used 6082 T6 aluminium ¼" (6.35mm) plate to make the two ends of the connector and a length of 2" x ¼" (50.8MM x 6.35mm) thick wall tube for the middle bit. It is often still easier to get material in imperial sizes, come to that the stepper motor is imperial size as well.

I made the two flat plates and then fitted the motor, flexible coupling and rotary table together to measure the shortest length of tube that would work. The dimensions for the motor mounting plate were copied from the motor spec sheet.

The motor plate is from a length of 3" x ¼" bar, cut to length and then mount flat on parallels in the milling machine vice. Clean up one cut end then reverse and mill to length. Turn 90° clean up the edge reverse and mill to length. With the part still in the vice use an edge finder in X and Y directions to position first hole for drilling use co-ordinate drilling to position the remaining 3 holes (19) and a centre hole (much easier with a DRO, I still count turns). The centre hole will be the motor register. Drill and bore this out to 38.1mm (20) I found the easiest way to check the diameter was using a short length of 1.5" (38.1mm) bar. Strange all the dimensions for the stepper motor are given in mm but they are definitely made with imperial measurements, oh well provided everything fits together!

That was the first time I had used the boring head in the mill and I tried to use it to cut the recess for the tube. This didn′t work too well as you can′t really get a flat bottom to the recess. I remounted the plate in the four-jaw chuck on the lathe (21) with the motor register running true and completed the recess, 3mm deep and to suit the tube diameter, with a boring bar.

I used another bit of 3" x ¼" bar to turn the plate that bolts to the rotary table. I drilled a 10mm hole in the centre of the plate and used a length of studding to hold it (22). The studding has two nuts locked to it which fit against the back of the chuck jaws and a nut and washer clamp the plate against the front of the jaws, there is a centre in the outboard end of the studding for support. I used a trepanning tool to remove the corners and then turned the O.D. to to size.

When the R.T. mounting plate is the correct diameter add a step 3mm deep with 38.1mm diameter to create a short spigot to fit the tube bore. Remove from the mandrel (studding) and mount holding the just turned spigot (23), bore out the centre hole to 21mm to fit the R.T. collar. To finish this part it need the three mounting holes drilled to match the table. I clamped the table index ring to the plate, they should be the same diameter, then spotted through with a drill that just cleared the threads in the index ring. Unclamp and drill the holes 5mm, there is no other alignment so keep the holes small, don"t use an M5 clearance drill.

The three parts are "glued" together, I used Loctite 603 which is a high strength oil tolerant retainer. Check alignment before joining, it will depend on the orientation of the holes in the index collar on the R.T. probably easier to join the tube to the table end first and then bolt it in place. The motor mount can then be aligned so that it is square when in use. I had an interesting experience when I first tried assembly. applied the Loctite placed suitable weight on top and left overnight. The following day removed the weight picked it up and it came apart. Apparently Loctite "goes off" still mine was a few years old! If you want to add screws it is probably easier to do this after assembly, I used 3 M3 C/S screws in each end, a bit belt and braces as either screws or adhesive alone will probably do the job.

Once the two end plates are in place the slot to access the coupling can be cut (25). In stages starting with an 8mm slot drill, using a 20mm end mill is really pushing this tiny mill! I thought the best place for this was on the underside so that swarf will fall out rather than in. You may need to adjust the slot to suit the fixings in the coupling. I used an aluminium flexible coupling (26) which has both a split collar clamp and a grub screw.

Not much to this really, first bolt the connector to the rotary table. Slide in the flexible coupling and tighten onto the table drive, I aligned it so that the grub screw would tighten into the keyway. Fit the motor using four M5 capscews, nuts and shakeproof washers. Tighten the coupling onto the motor shaft and thats the mechanical bit done.

To test I went through each menu item in turn and made sure it did what it was supposed to. I discovered that clockwise and anti-clockwise were reversed but this can be adjusted in the software. I also discovered that I had wired one switch back to front and needed to reverse the leads fortunately just swapping a couple of push on connectors. Found that the motor vibrated rather heavily, haven′t got to the cause of that yet. I also set the table to zero on it′s scale and checked that the angle turned matched what the display said for a full 360° - it did.

With a bit of work on the software, to slow the motor down, I don′t see why the table could not be operated under power, to mill say a semi-circular slot. WIll also need a bit of work on the switch de-bounce software for this to ensure reliability, as it is it is easy to double press keys. Nice little project a good introduction to both the Arduino and to stepper motors neither of which I had used before.

New driver module (27) is enclosed and all the terminals are at one end so I had to do a bit of redesign to fit it in. No problem with the wiring but I had to bend up a bracket from a bit of aluminium sheet to hold it in place. The bracket (28) uses the old fixing holes and is bent to give a bit of room for ventilation of the power supply.

As I had to take everything apart I added a reset button (29) by soldering leads to the back of the shield button in the same way as for the other buttons. Caused me some aggravation as the first button I found in my "bits that will be useful one day box" remained steadfastly open-circuit when pressed, still it was probably 30 years old! Last but not least a short video (30) which shows the table spinning quietly in run mode and then vibrating in step and angle mode. It makes me think this might be software generated as that is the only difference between the modes.

Model Engineers Workshop Forum- thread discussing the original magazine article and various points arising including some useful information about variations in the Arduino hardware, particularly the LCD shield.

Step Indexer- software download for the original Digital Machinist article. The ZIP file includes three versions of the code and various text notes. The software is, I believe, in the public domain with a GNU licence.

Gary Liming′s Website- describes the making of the original step-indexer which could be used in place of a rotary table and outlines the software in a bit more detail.

Arduino Home Page- has all the information about the Arduino project. You can download the IDE (Integrated Development Environment) from here which you will need to program the micro-controller board.

CH340G driver- Some boards use the CH340G USB/serial chip as a cheaper alternative to the FTDI chip, this is the driver download link. The FTDI standard driver is installed when you setup the Arduino IDE.

LCD Keypad Shield- information and pinout diagram for the LCD shield. Be aware that different makes of board have slightly different components and working voltages for the keypad resistor chain, see the model engineer discussion thread if your keypad doesn′t seem to work correctly.

Model Engine Maker Forum- thread covering the preparation of a Vertex rotary table ready for automation. This was done by John "Bogstandard" Moore in readiness for the Division Master system but the mechanics are the same.

Stepper Motor Data- This is the specification sheet and wiring diagram for a similar motor to the one I used which is no longer available (2020). Any Nema 23 size motor around the 2Nm holding torque should be quite sufficient indeed a smaller motor may suffice if you have one to hand. My original motor was 8-wire but a 4-wire motor is just as good and will avoid some soldering.

The list above is for the major parts required for the project. The suppliers are those I used and the prices were correct in January 2017. (Please note the links to some of these items seem to change weekly, apologies if they don′t work) I make no particular recommendation as to the suppliers it is just where I found the bits needed, it is likely that better/cheaper/different parts are available from myriad locations on the web. In addition to the bits listed you will need - hook-up wire, solder, nuts, bolts, spacers, cable ties, crimp connectors and sleeving. Please note that the above table doesn"t display well on a small screen, try rotating to landscape to view!

Many of the links in the Glossary and particularly the Parts List table have gone missing over time so I have tried to update them with currently available parts and information. In fact none of the parts are particularly critical and a bit of web searching will find suitable replacements. The Model Engineer Forum link is still active and one of the later additions is the replacement of the switches with a cheaply available numeric keypad. I haven"t carried out this mod but it looks quite interesting.

I have also been told that the TB6560 has an inherent quirk, I quote "It may be of interest to you to know these modules apply power to the IC in the wrong order. The manufacturers specification clearly states the 5v logic voltage should be applied and allowed to settle before the higher stepper motor voltage is applied. On these modules the 5v is derived from the (say) 24v supply which compromises the “power-up” sequence and has resulted in “blown” chips." It may therefore be prudent to avoid this and use the TB6600 driver module.

Carl - Your inspiring MEW article arrived the same day as my Arduino for idiots starter kit. Just the beginning of a long journey for me. But seeing something practical like your table gave me hope beyond my normal attention span. If I graduate it would be interesting to have a go at a fourth axis conversion perhaps.

The Arduino platform is in my opinion the best way in. It"s designer, Massimo Banzi, is a true visionary. He spent his childhood tinkering with all things mechanical and electrical. He realised that this is the best way to learn.

By the way, a fourth axis is perfectly do-able. The best thing about the Arduino is you can achieve practical results in a short time, with far less intellectual overhead than with say a Pic.

No mystery you say, but as soon as you access the Arduino site it throws all kinds of options and boards at you without any hint of where and with what to start (from scratch).

Whilst I was off work sick for eight months I picked up an Arduino Uno off of the internet, Amazon, downloaded the IDE from the Arduino website and just followed the websites training pages, I"ve also bought project books. I have uno"s that are genuine boards and copies but they all work the same, I"m also still playing with it and learning the programming as I go. There are other Arduino boards which are less useful or more powerful than the uno but the uno seems the most popular.

I haven"t read either of the articles described on these pages but have a version from Chuck on the HMEM site, will be trying the program (sketch) out from the DM article soon, it operates on the electronic gear I already have, that"s an Arduino UNO R3 board, a TB6560 3A 1 axis stepper driver controller and a 16x2 Shield LCD screen/keypad, I already had a 12v DC PSU and a suitable stepper motor, cost of purchased parts inc pp was £16

A thumbs up for the Arduino Uno Beginners Kit. (if that is what you are) Very good guide book and project components for the unelectrical. - If you are Cad/Cam minded, Estlecam have very interesting free programme for the Uno, to run a router. With 3D scanning, tool setting and auto leveling.

If you are Cad/Cam minded, Estlecam have very interesting free programme for the Uno, to run a router. With 3D scanning, tool setting and auto leveling.

You"re lucky in that case. Most of the Chinese copies won"t work with the standard Arduino USB driver for programming. (There is a driver, that works, available but you have to know and dig it up).

The great thing about this forum is that we can have discussions about issues that I"d love to have covered in my article but for which there just wasn"t space.

An uno is definitely the best way to start out, but you don"t need to shell out that much. You can get a copy...not strictly the correct term as the whole Arduino project is open source...for considerably less.

Is there some advantage to this rather than the pro mini which I have been using? With the pro mini you need another programmer board, but that is a one off and cheap, and the pro mini has its own resonator and voltage regulator. It even has a built in reset button and a LED you can make flash. Useful at times. I"ve just bought 10 off pro mini for £22 from UK supplier, so cheaper than the Farnell item

I was thinking if I don"t need the USB port , I can replace several 5V logic IC"s with the Atmel chip + crystal and save the space taken by the Arduino uno board

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USBASP-USBISP-ISP-Programmer-Cable-Adapter-KK2-0-KK2-1-Atmel-AVR-ATMega-ARDUINO-/131241223483?var=&hash=item1e8e96253b:m:my5ajIyIlNHKV-vZffc0xBg

Anyone wanting to get deeply into AVR (or get eth most out of arduino) should visit teh atmel website and download Atmel Studio 6 which includes a library of datasheets.

There are sooooo many Arduino versions available - plus numerous Arduino-compatible boards and other single board computers. Of course, many of them will fall by the wayside but it"s fantastic to see so much innovation and development happening out there.

Like most of our generation, I"ve been messing with micros for much of my career but the upcoming generation has been born into this wave of technology, which is so much more powerful, cost effective and user friendly than what we were used to. It"s fascinating to think where this is leading...

Arduino based IR remote control code checker. ... Novice - experience. Working on downsizing the photos so they can be added. Find and display hex code for remotes to use the code in Arduino sketches.

For makers who are interested in electronics and coding for arduino, this is the code for Plant watering automation. The code is specifically made to be a timer and to set the temperature and humidity as well. Works with the ESP 8266 electronic...

800°C - OLED SSD 1306 128x32 - module - 4 screws M3 x 10 up to M3 x 20 will work The files of this thing include the Arduino code I used; basically a copy pasted merge of the library examples from Adafruit, which come along when installing the...

800°C OLED SSD 1306 128x32 - module 4 screws M3 x 10 up to M3 x 20 will work The files of this thing include the Arduino code I used; basically a copy pasted merge of the library examples from Adafruit, which come along when installing the libraries...

It is Arduino powered Morse Code Forwarder.The whole thing is 90 mm in width, 60mm in depth, and 51mm in height.You will need these parts: 1x Arduino Nano1x 400pin breadboard2x 5mm LED (one green, one red)2x resistors (don´t know, which I...

I ask 2 things of anyone who uses this: Give credit when possible to those who help you Improve and share code to better the experience for everyone Updated code an instructions:http://blog.mkme.org/index.php/arduino-sainsmart-4wd-robot/...

a spool holder bar that stores a weight bar inside (arduino based) shows live display of remaining material in weight or length, metric or imperial. auto reduces the spool"s weight, stores 6 common spool brands.

This is a fancy table, containing all letters of the Morse code, my friends and I have to learn to pass the German amateur radio licence. You can print it, or, as we did it. engrave it inside a piece of wood with a laser. ...I also included the original...

This thing is knob for rotary switch for arduino projects **Please, If you download my model - **click on Like button**. And if you found some problem let me know in comment section please....

i have also attached the arduino code i used to run the tank via bluetooth. the android app i used is Arduino_Control_Car. i used the wiring diagram form here for the motors...

I only ask 2 things if you use the code: Give credit to others when possible Develop and share your code Update Dec 24 2013- Added basic code for an oscilloscope style display function. This is ONLY the display code and not yet added to the main...

... and less tilted. Changed arms for 5mm NeoPixels. Included small amp for louder beep and changed the knob a bit. Arduino code is included as is. On the back I made the speaker part a bit thicker and the hole for the charging port a bit larger....

For the entire project on which this is based, please visithttp://www.inmoov.fr/ Arduino FSR code This is not the best place to post this but in order to make it easy to find (A lot of InMoov discussions are taking place on this platform) I also post...

A good video to show how to wire everything up can be found here.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Kuf-MG-nYY&list=LL&index=28 The arduino code uploaded can be edited to change colors/patterns

I don"t advise to take the 5V from the ARDUINO for the HR LEDs and supply the Arduino with its small 7,5 to 9V power supply, especially if you put 3 to 4 Red Eyes boxes !!!

... and an arduino, you can feed your fish for up to 10 days while you"re out on vacation. Get the code for it Here! Unzip into your Arduino folder, and in the arduino IDE you can find the sketch under Sketches → RobotGeekSketches → Demos → FishFeeder

If wanted, a basic example of the Arduino code can be found here. If the countersinks on the face are a bit small due to elephants foot or bad supports, then heat-setting the washers that come with the WH148 units provides a really nice and...

... [1] STGC - Single Track Gray Codes: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_code#STGC [2] Gary Williams: 9-Bit Graycode at: https://www.experts-exchange.com/questions/23594359/"single-track-gray-code"-sought-for-encoding-360-degrees-with-9-sensors.html

... led lights. ... The Arduino code includes a loop within a loop logic. ... This code flashes each side of the crossing cross (one yellow and one blue) then flashes the red internal light 5 times in the internal loop, then repeats the original flashing.

Arduino code is in thing files Instructions I used a 2004 LCD display, 2 DS 18B20 temp sensors, 1 AC-712 5 amp sensor,1 AS-GY-712 20 amp sensor, a Moderndevices RBBB UNO clone, 2 voltage dividers made of 1-10k resistor & 1- 20k trim pot, 2 LEDS...

Arduino code is in thing files Instructions I used a 2004 LCD display, 2 DS 18B20 temp sensors, 1 AC-712 5 amp sensor,1 AS-GY-712 20 amp sensor, a Moderndevices RBBB UNO clone, 2 voltage dividers made of 1-10k resistor & 1- 20k trim pot, 2 LEDS and a...

... Filament i used: - Fillamentum PLA Extrafill Wizard’s Voodoo - Geeetech PLA Glow in the Dark Green DOWNLOAD ARDUINO CODE: https://www.printables.com/de/model/256660-rgb-double-helix-lamp-micro-usb-socket-closed-bott >> There are 4 Lists of effects.

I did dabble in updating the Arduino code as (which is a first for me) Something that wasnt obvious until i assembled the base was that you need to switch the input wires the other way round on one of the stepper controllers otherwise they are both...

Feel free to ask me questions and I will try help as much as possible, for extra help my discord is: Zicheee#3252 If you haven"t tried coding with the ESP32s I would definitely recommend it, they have Bluetooth/WiFi capabilities, along with running...

This is a ridiculously easy (in terms of power tool use - see below) way to make a lower precision XY Table.  With the wide availability of T-Slot extrusions on Amazon and Ebay, and using simple home improvement store hardware, this is a great way to build these kinds of projects.  Using patio door rollers on an angle is a low cost and easy way to handle what are often complex mechanics on CNC machines.

1) For each of the six timing belt pulley brackets, cut 2.25" of channel aluminum, drill two 1/2" holes (pro-tip: use a step drill), and two 13/64" holes.

T-SLOT(~$85):   We used the 1" 10 Series line from 80/20.  We didn"t look around too much, and there are definitely other manufacturers.  The 80/20 product is available on Amazonand Ebay, so it was easy to obtain.  For this project, the 1" profile seemed good.  The 20mm profile (about 3/4") flexed a bit at the spans we had.  We have seen some nice CNC tables made with the 1.5" profiles - they look great, but we did not need that amount of strength for the Sandbox.

We used 1"x1" profiles for two of the X axis sides, 1"x2" profiles for the other two sides (to allow the Y axis rollers and drive belts more clearance), and a 1"x3" piece for the Y axis.

OK, we are going off the T-Slot script here.  You can get very nice connectors from the manufacturers, and they work really well, but the cost can add up.  For the 1" T-Slot, though, we found that #10 machine screws with square nuts works pretty well.  The square nuts are better than hex since they won"t spin in the slot.  Also, they can just fit in sideways if you are in a situation where another screw is blocking the track.  You can get these at the hardware store, or order them from McMaster-Carr - in stainless, but that is not a requirement.  This hardware is available from many other sources.

For the list below, "M" is the McMaster-Carr part # - nothing special about them - just what we used.  Small Parts Inc. might be a good source too. For some of the brackets, the Stanley brand from the hardware store seemed better - the holes were more uniform and better aligned - the best ones are in the links below.  The screws and most of the plates can be found at local hardware / home improvement stores too - larger quantities, hex heads, stainless etc. may be easier to find at online parts suppliers or maybe you have a nice hardware store nearby, but for the lower quantity items, any old hardware store screws are fine too. We used the stainless ones - some people prefer the black oxide finish.

(4) 3/4" angle Brackets - to hold the 1x2 t -slot to the 1x1 t-slot to make the frame - we got them at OSH - The 7/8" ones at McMaster will work, but the holes are not consistent, so order a bunch and pick out the best ones.  Just make sure the vertical side holes line up with the middle of the T-Slot.  Getting extras of these is a good idea - we ended up using 4 more for the frame and you can also use them to hold the frame down to a workbench.

(12) 1.5" (white) Nylon rollers (with brass ball bearings in the middle) for screen doors from Home Depot or here - this is the secret lower cost ingredient to this design! :-)  They are Prime-Line Products D-1506 1-1/2" Sliding Glass Door Rollers.  If you can"t find the nylon ones, brass ones might work.  The angle brackets in this project were based on the 1.5" diameter ones, so that is the important  dimension.  The D-1799 rollers are the same - just cost a dollar or so more since they come with additional hardware.

For the angle brackets, you may need to drill out the holes that will be for the bearings to 1/4" for those 1/4" bolts. Some of the brackets we tried have holes that are big enough already - kind of hit-or-miss on that.

Channel Aluminum: This is to make the brackets for the bearings.  You will need at least 15" of 1.5"x1.5"x1/8" thick channel aluminum. McMaster-Carr may have this, but we got ours at Online Metals - 6063 T52 aluminum channel. They also sell 36" lengths on Amazon.  24" is $7.74. You will need to cut this into (6) 2.25" lengths, then drill two 1/2" holes in the sides and two 7/32" holes for the #10 bolts in the bottom of each (see step 5). Use a step drill for the 1/2" holes - it"s way easier than trying to use a 1/2" bit.

1/4" shaft (plain - not threaded) - ~44" for the long piece on the X axis to prevent racking, and (2) 2.25" pieces, and (2) 3.25" pieces. aluminum or steel should be OK.  The steel one from my home store seemed more precise - the aluminum was slightly large for the shaft collars and bearings.

See step 7 for more detail, but you can drive this project in a number of ways.  Stepper motors will work (our slightly under-powered setup cost about $100), but we decided to use the Pololu JRK 21v3 motor controllers ($50), with motors like the Lynxmotion GHM-16 ($22) - you can get those elsewhere - they are 12v 200RPM gearhead motors with 6mm shafts (nicely close to the 1/4" shafts we are using).  We are using the same the 10-turn potentiometers from Jameco or Mouser etc. (Bournes 3540 series or similar ~$20). So, together, that"s about $200. The advantage with this approach is that the position is absolute - no limit switches needed, but it"s potentially less precise than steppers. The JRK controllers are easy to setup - they have a Windows app to calibrate and adjust them. You can control them from a Arduino or PC, or from a servo controller.

For the X axis, we decided to simply place the 1x2 T-Slot extrusions on top of the 1x1 ones.  We did try having them on the same level with corner brackets, but having them on top of each other made the slots more accessible for the timing belt brackets, and there was more clearance below.  We cut 7 inches off the ends of the 1x2 extrusions to be used for the Y Axis Carriage in the next step.

To connect them, we used  3/4" L brackets with the 3/8" long #10-32 screws and square nuts - on one side, the bracket lines up with the edge (see picture), and on the other side, the 1x2 is inset by 2.5".  This is not the absolute minimum width for the timing belts we used, but it"s pretty close.  You could also probably just go right to the edge on the other side too - we thought that might be useful for cable guides etc., and the Y Axis rollers do not stick out.  You could also center it - 1.25" on each side.  Whatever - that"s the nice thing about the T-Slot - it"s easy to move things!

One pro-tip for T-Slot - it"s much easier to attach the nuts loosely to the screws on the brackets, then slide them in to the T-Slot rather than try to find the nut once it"s slid on.  This is especially true for the square nuts vs. the special T-Slot fasteners.  For this entire project, only the three belt holders in step 6 (and one for the optional cable carrier) need to be screwed in after the nut is on the T-Slot.  All the others can be pre-attached to save a lot of time and trouble.

With the sides slightly tightened, we used a tape measure and t-square to make sure the 1x2 sides were the same distance apart (so the Y axis rollers stay on the 1x2 rails), and that the frame was square.  At this point, there should be some brackets to hold it down to the base since it"s not that rigid - more of the 3/4" brackets would work fine for holding it down to the workbench.

Some of the other variations on this layout we tried include using all 1x1 extrusions, aluminum bars, angles etc.  We really didn"t bring the price down enough to make it worthwhile in our opinion.  The incremental cost for the 1x2 and 1x3 extrusions was just not that huge.

For the Y Axis carriage, we used the two 7" 1x2 pieces we cut off earlier.  The rollers are mounted on the 1" angle brackets, and it"s best to slip them in the 1x2 pieces before using the 4" plates to hold them apart.  Once those are set, the rollers can be tightened.  It may help to use a small piece of wood or something to set the gap first.  For us, the gap was about 5/8" and we found a mini-DV case that was just right.  Then, it"s a process of tightening them, and resetting/tightening them all until it"s straight and looks good.

The Y axis timing belt needs to go in there.  Either add it while you are making this part, or you can loosen a couple brackets and wheels (do them one at a time to keep the rest of the rollers tight) later to add it - not a big deal either way.  Our pictures do not show it for simplicity, but maybe adding it and holding it together with a rubber band to keep it out of the way might help .

As with the Y Axis carriage, putting the Y axis up on some small spacers seems to help the initial setup, and then you can go around and adjust them one by one.  For us, the space was about 1/2", and we found that two post-it pads was about right.  Make sure the Y Axis 1x3 t-slot is square in the frame as you make your adjustments.

This is most of the fabrication for the project, and not too hard.  This approach is a big improvement on the plastic ones from the previous project, and with the T-Slot, are very nicely adjustable.

Cut the channel aluminum into six 2.25" lengths, then drill two 1/2" holes in the sides (1/2" from the end and the open side)  and two 7/32" holes for the #10 bolts in the bottom of each (1/4" and 3/4" from the end and centered in the channel). Use a step drill for the 1/2" holes - it"s much easier than trying to use a 1/2" bit.

For this step you will probably be disassembling and assembling the brackets and bearings a few times.  It"s easier than trying to get all the belts right beforehand.

For the Y Axis, center the top two brackets on the Y axis 1x3 - do a loose fit, then measure the difference to the ends and center it.  You can probably even set them just by eye since precise positioning does not matter that much.  Assuming you did not put the belt through the Y Axis Carriage before:  To get the belt through the Y Axis carriage, you will need to unscrew one 4" plate and one roller, then fasten them back, followed by the second 4" plate and roller.  We recommend doing them one at a time to prevent loosening the carriage parts too much.

The 2" plates are used to hold the belt down on top.  Sometimes catching the square nut (for the inside one) below can be tricky - use the wrench to make sure the nut is level first.  The special T-Slot hardware is much better in this situation, but kind of expensive in quantity.  This is the only place where it would really help since all the other locations allow you to attach the nut, then slide it on.  One of the nuts on each plate can be pre-attached, so only three nuts have to be done this way - it"s slightly tricky, but doable.

From the pictures, you can see the placement we used for the motors - marked by the longer shafts and black shaft couplers - see the next step.  We chose these locations so they would not hit each other, but other locations may be possible.

There are a lot of options for motors.  In the previous project, we used hacked high power hobby servos.  These work well for the Y axis since there is not that much mass to move.  For the X axis, we switched to a DC Gearhead motor, which has been very reliable.

We tried using stepper motors and the ones we used were OK, but slightly under-powered for this application (for the X axis) - they were 1.2 amp ones from Pololu. Pololu also has a low-cost stepper driver carrier board that can work with them. It worked well for the Y axis, but a higher power stepper would be better for the the X axis since that 1x3 t-slot etc. is a lot of mass to move for the size of stepper motor we tried.  It did work, though - just skipped a few steps now and then, until we added some acceleration to the stepper commands.  So, that approach will surely work with the proper tuning of acceleration and size of motor.  You"d need something like an Arduino to drive them, though (that"s what we did), to make the steps.  Also, you may need to add some limit switches - a bigger issue for the TeleToyland Sandbox since we would want to automatically home the robot with each sequence since it runs un-attended.  All doable.  Those parts together cost about $100 (steppers are ~$18, drivers are ~$13, and Arduino Uno is ~$30).

We also tried using motors with encoders and a RoboClaw driver board.  That also works, but the board provides PID for velocity and not position, so it wasn"t as precise for this type of application as we"d hoped.  They have been great for some other robot projects, though.  You can definitely get more precise (expensive) position based drivers.  We won"t go into this too much - it"s well worn material in CNC forums.  As with the steppers, motors with encoders, would also need some limit switches for our application.

An alternate mounting approach is to make brackets for the motors from some scrap aluminum (we used 1" wide by 1/6" thick), and used flexible shaft couplings.  See the pictures for both mounting techniques.  These brackets were 4" long and folded to 90 degrees at the 2.5" point along the length.  Both mounting approaches worked fine for our application, though the flexible shaft couplers are a bit tighter for CNC type applications.

As with the previous project, we used 10-turn potentiometers. They are 5K ohms like those used in hobby servos. With the JRK, we were able to try a few brands to see how they did, and the two that we tested seemed pretty similar. The ETI MH22B series ones are almost $100 now (they were less when we got them), and Bourns 3540 series are around $20. We"ve seen others at around $10, but have not tested them thoroughly. We got the ETI MH22B series ones before when we were concerned about the lifetime - they are rated at 10 million turns, while most of the others are at 1-2 million. We had an issue before with the pot failing, but in retrospect, that was due to the fixed mechanical mounting, and the short piece of plastic tubing connecting the potentiometers to the shafts fixes that issue, so the less expensive potentiometers should be fine.  So, get the less expensive ones and save some money.

For the two we tested, they both showed the full range and detail on the JRK - 0 to 4095 steps, and we could get them to move in one-unit steps, though for many locations, the value would oscillate by one unit. Over the 29.25" travel of the X axis, we got abut 2678 units (pre-calibration) of movement (since it"s ~6.66 turns of the timing belt pulley - less than the full 10-turn range), so the precision is theoretically 0.01". If you assume we get half that with the occasional one unit oscillation, it would be around 0.02" (1339 units).  In practice, it"s probably not that precise.

For the Potentiometers, we made some brackets from some scrap 1" wide aluminum (1/6" thick). To prevent wear on the potentiometer bearings, we used some 3/16" ID x 5/16 OD plastic tubing to connect them to the shafts.  See the pictures for the bracket spacing.

For the previous project, we just suspended the cables from above, but this time, we decided to try a cable carrier for the project, and it works great.  As with the rest of the project, the T-Slot made it super easy.  We used about 18" of flexible cable carrier with the end connectors.  The one end connector just attaches to the Y axis with a single #10 screw, and for the lower piece, we used a couple 3" plates we had lying around - two #10 screws to hold them to the X axis frame, and one #10 screw to fasten the cable carrier to the one plate.  The second plate is just there to provide a bit more support.  Done!

For the Y axis, the carriage surrounds the whole axis so we can"t mount the cable carrier on the middle of the T-Slot.  So, we built a couple stands from angle brackets, and cut a piece of U shaped aluminum - 3/4" wide, and extended that out to the middle of the Y Axis from above.  We drilled a couple of holes for the stands and one for the end of the cable carrier.  We made one more stand on the Y Axis Carriage for the end of the cable carrier.  See the pictures for the details.

For our project, we are using a hobby servo to move the end effector (a stick) up and down.  To mount the servo, we made a small bracket with holes for the servo and the t-slot.  To keep the servo control rob in line, we used an extra plate.

The cable carrier we used was the McMaster-Carr # 55835K432 and corresponding mounting brackets 55835K3.  You have to buy it in 3 foot lengths, which cost about $20, so for the X and Y axis, the cost is roughly $50 - we couldn"t quite get by with only 3 feet.  We bought two sets of the end clips.

We used the Pololu Jrk 21v3 USB Motor Controller with Feedback (JRK) - these controllers work like the electronics in a hobby servo, but have a lot more control - you can set the PID parameters, motor direction, range etc. via a Windows program and the USB connector, and they have several input methods for control (R/C signals, serial), and feedback (we used the linear voltage - potentiometer).  For the original sandbox, we are now using one of these for the X axis, and still using a modified (for continuous rotation) high-speed, high-power servo for the Y axis (which needs less power to move).

With the JRK controllers, the PID algorithm can be tuned pretty tight so we are close, but not as precise as some CNC setups.  But, it"s way more than we needed for our application.  For the 200 RPM motors we used on the X axis, we ended up with P=3.5, I=0, and D=20.  We are not experts at this, and maybe they can be tuned better.  We are using the auto scaling of the input - the training mode to make the range of movement map to the full 0-4095 range.  This will make the control program easier to setup since it will not need any calibration or range constants other than 0 and 4095 - something we did not have with the previous project"s servo motors.

There are many options to set this up for Internet control.  For the previous project, we used a Siteplayer Telnet Ethernet to serial module plugged directly in to a Lynxmotion SSC-32 servo controller, and the servo or JRK controller plugs into the SSC using the R/C command mode.  This is a good setup for web server control since it needs only telnet commands (easy in PHP) to control it as long as the web server buffers and sends the commands nicely.  The Lynxmotion SSC-32 also allows the commands to be run over a set time period (a couple seconds typically), so oblique moves work well with the timing - the shorter distance axis moving more slowly.

For this project, we decided to use an Arduino to run  the JRK controllers.  So, we need to time the position commands to make the X and Y axes move together evenly.  We could also have used the Arduino to drive a Lynxmotion SSC-32, but since the JRKs also take serial commands directly, it seems cleaner to have one less set of boards.

To connect the JRKs to the Arduino, we just used the TX pin on the Arduino wired to both RX pins on the JRKs - a simple one wire Y cable since the JRKs each have an address used in the commands, they can just be connected to the same TX pin.  The motors are connected to the A and B connectors, and +12v and Gnd to those connectors.  Make sure the Arduino and JRK controllers share the ground wire so the TX works.  We used a PC power supply so we had 12v for the motors and 5v for the Arduino.

Here is the Arduino Sketch we used to test moving the XY Table to random positions.  It shows how to do the timing loop for the JRK controllers, so the diagonal moves will be straight.  This code uses the clock to time the position at each loop.  By not using delays, we are allowing for the next step of adding the Ethernet Shield and running the Arduino as a web server too.

As before, we could use an Ethernet to Serial device like the Siteplayer Telnet to send commands to the Arduino, but we can also use an Ethernet Shield to run the Arduino.  The pictures show that setup and  the simple web UI we used for testing.  There are no PCs or web servers - the entire web server is on the Arduino + Ethernet Shield!  The sketch for that setup is here.  You will need to put in your own IP address, and we had a port forwarding setup on our firewall to make it work.

That Arduino web UI could be extended to allow multiple commands, save them in an array on the Arduino, and play back the moves in sequence.  Once we get this setup for TeleToyland, we will either do that, or continue to use the server to buffer them as before.

In the end, we used an Arduino Mega to get the extra memory space to buffer the commands - there should be room for roughly 1,700 of the 4 byte commands we used.

For the project, we had 6 colors (R,Y,G,B, Soft White, and Bright White) of LED strips - we could have used the multicolor ones, but these were easy enough to use.  To power them, we used IRLB8721 N Channel Power MOSFETs from Adafruit.  They are very easy to use.  Pin 1 goes to an Arduino I/O pin, Pin 2 goes to the Gnd side of the LED, and Pin 3 goes to the power supply ground.  The LED + pin goes to the +12v power supply.

We used two more MOSFETs - one for the servo that moves the pen up and down, and one to control a DPDT relay that disconnects the motors when they are not being used.  We do this on TeleToyland since there are periods with no use, and keeping the servo and motors powered up will shorten their life.  So the final Arduino code we use powers them on, does all the moves, then powers them off.

There are a lot of other projects out there for home made CNC.  Some of them will be noted here:Another one that uses (20mm) T-Slot is the Buildlog.net 2.x Laser.Check out this Instructable on how a smaller table sized version was built for a show, and also how it was controlled with an Arduinoand a Joystick Shield.

Thanks for sharing this information. I want to construct a similar X Y table but I want it to be of more precision (will be used for scanning). So I want the movement to be at a step of 0.1 mm. What do you think I should change/replace in your design to be able to do mine?

Thanks. I do not think this approach would be suitable for very high precision positioning. Using stepper motors would help, as well as making sure everything is well tuned. But, there are many XY table hardware options out there that may be more reliable. I have not used them, so cannot make any recommendations. Good luck!0

There is a link to the code in Step 9. Also, this project has some related code that might help: https://www.instructables.com/id/Table-Sized-Arduino-Joystick-Controlled-T-Slot-XY-/0

Hi, Greetings from Colombia, I"m working doing a project for my university that is based on the xy table, you could be so kind as to let me see the code you used in Arduino please.

Step 9 has some code, and also, this similar one that is joystick controlled. Hope that helps! https://www.instructables.com/id/Table-Sized-Arduino-Joystick-Controlled-T-Slot-XY-/0

outstanding Instructable! As a retired Mechanic and Mechanical Engineer your comment about having the "Nice Toys" to improve the fit of the parts I can suggest the following. The photos show the pulleys and shafts skewed to the slots. That is understandable since the slots are meant to easily insert a screw and nut and it"s up to you to apply a square and tighten until red in the face to hold the alignment! One suggestion: there are u-tube and Instructables about soldering aluminum with a low temperature torch (propane or butane) that really holds. Cutting pieces of aluminum strap material a little oversize you can file the piece to just slide into the mating slot. Then, squaring the piece of aluminum to the piece you wish to locate, clamp it and solder away. Touch up with a fine tooth file can give you the fit you are looking for. No great expense, practice soldering on aluminum scrap, and when ready, build a machine that looks and is accurate. The aluminum solder holds up against stress and strain far beyond what you will face with your design here. Outstanding! Thank you for the instructable!

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