diy rotary table plans manufacturer

Once the payment has been made, you will receive an email with a link to download a Zip file which includes the plans of the DIY rotary tool multipurpose workstation.

If, for some reason, you don"t receive this email, you can also download the plans from this site by logging into your user account. Check out the section "How do I download my plans"of the

There are no refunds on downloaded digital plans. Before buying, you can download some of the free plans available on this website. Downloading one of these is an excellent way to get a better idea of what they’re like.

All accessories are included in the plans.Instructions in English and Spanish.Scaled printable plans of many parts in PDF and JPEG, A4 format.Full-scale printable PDF templates, A3 or A4 format, to glue it onto the board and so that we can cut and drill in a precise way.Exploded views of all parts and cutting list of the homemade 3-in-1 workstation for use with Dremel-type rotary tools.A 3D3D Autocad model of the DIY rotary tool multipurpose workstation.DXF files for CAM programs.The plans are a 23 megabyte Zip file (any computer, Mac or PC, should be able to open Zip files)Take your time to understand the plans of the DIY rotary tool multipurpose workstation.These plans are for a Dremel tool, to install other models you may have to modify a bit the plans.

Years ago, before I learned CNC, I owned a Phase II 8″ horizontal/vertical rotary table that I purchased from Kap Pullen’s Getmachinetools.com store. He has them at a good price, BTW, and he’s a darned nice fellow to deal with as well as being a frequent HSM contributor. Anyway, its a nice little table, but I hadn’t done a whole lot with it for quite a while after purchasing it. As is so often the case, one day, a project landed on my doorstep and I was glad to have it.

Before I could get started, however, I had to make some accessories for it. Basically, I needed some T-Nuts to fit the table, as well as a little fixture that makes it easy to hold a plate up off the table through a hole in the center so you can machine it. The latter, what I call a “plate machining fixture”, was inspired by something similar I saw the Widgitmaster of CNCZone fame using to make Dremel clamps for his mini-router:

I turned the round spigot using the 4-jaw on the lathe. I’m making the fixture out of MIC-6 aluminum plate, which is pre-ground very flat on the sides. This is a 5 inch by 3 inch piece. I’ve clamped it to the rotab using my T-nuts and the regular mill clamps and step blocks. It is sitting on parallels to make sure I don’t cut into the table. You can also see how I’ve clamped the rotary table to the mill table using a big cast iron V-block I have. You can never have to many blocks with precision faces hanging around!

Having a 4-jaw chuck on your rotary table is mighty handy! Because it’s a 4-jaw, you can dial in the workpiece by adjusting the jaws until it is perfectly concentric with the table’s axis of rotation. The best way is to make an adapter plate that attaches to the back of the chuck in the same way that your lathe does so you can exchange lathe tooling with the rotab. Here is an example:

For the example, the chuck is threaded onto the adaptor plate, and then the holes in the adapter plate’s flange are used to bolt down to T-nuts on the table.

In my case, I bought a 4-jaw from Shars brand new, and simply drilled some through-holes in the chuck to mount to the table directly without an adapter plate:

First, you want to make sure your part is properly centered on the table. To do that, I clamp the table down on the mill table (no special place is needed), put my Indicol indicator holder on the mill spindle, and find some round feature on the part to indicate on. For example, on the plate milling fixture above, indicate on the round boss, or on the center hole. Spin the table and bump the part in until spinning the table doesn’t move the indicator.

Second, locate the center of rotation directly under the mill spindle. You can simply use the X and Y table handwheels to do this. Use that Indicol to indicate off of a circular feature you want centered under the spindle. Turn the indicol around on the spindle and adjust the handwheels until the indicator stays put relative to the spindle position. A Blake Coaxial indicator will make this last even simpler.

When you’re rounding partially by cranking a part around on the rotary table, it’s really easy to go a little too far and screw things up. The answer is to drill the end points to make the exact stopping point on the rotab a lot less sensitive:

Centering with a Blake indicator is really fast, but what if you don’t have a Blake, or worse, what if your mill is too small to accomodate one? Here is a nice solution I found on a German site. This fellow has made an ER collect fixture for his rotary table, and has taken care that when installed on the table, the axis of the collet is aligned with the table’s axis. He can then place a dowel or other straight pin in the collet and line up until it will go into a similarly sized collet on the spindle. Nice trick! It’s similar to how Widgitmaster showed me to align a drill chuck on a QCTP to the lathe centerline with a dowel pin held in the lathe chuck.

We have several routers and router tables in the Woodsmith shop. So it’s a bit of a stretch to say we “need” another router table. But this is a different deal. Honestly, it’s a mini router table. It’s mini because it uses a rotary tool instead of a full-size router. Like clamps, you can never have enough routing tools. If you don’t already have one, rotary tools and their matching router bits are readily available at your local home center. And they do a bang-up job when it comes to making things on a small scale. Despite their size, there’s little drop-off in getting precise results in most woodworking tasks. Building on these qualities was the driving force behind this project. It starts with a generously sized tabletop that has a no-maintenance plastic laminate top with a miter gauge slot to aid in the routing process. As for the maple fence, it’s got a T-track as well for featherboards and stop blocks.