water heater safety valve leaking in stock

Temperature pressure relief valves play a vital role in protecting the safety of your water heater and your home. So when the relief valve starts leaking, Bay Area homeowners can be quite concerned. Today we’re going to answer the question, “Why is my water heater’s relief valve leaking?” and explain what you should do if it happens in your home!

When water is heated up inside of a water heater, thermal expansion causes the pressure inside of the tank to build up. If that pressure gets too high, your water heater runs the risk of exploding!

The temperature pressure relief valve is a safety mechanism that’s used to avoid this problem. If the temperature‘s  or pressure in your tank exceeds a certain level (often times 210 degrees and 150 psi), the relief valve opens up and allows some water to drain out of the tank. Cold water is then added to the tank in order to lower the temperature and pressure inside.

Your water heater’s relief valve can start leaking for one of two reasons: either the valve was triggered to open because of excessive temperature or pressure, or the valve itself is faulty. In the first case, the valve will drain water out of the discharge pipe as explained above. This may seem like a “leak,” but it’s really just the relief valve doing its job.

If the problem is a faulty valve, then you might have an actual leak. The valve might not seal properly, for instance, or the valve can get stuck and remain open (allowing water to continuously drain out).

No matter what caused your relief valve to start leaking, you should contact a professional plumber like Cabrillo as soon as possible. If the valve is frequently being triggered, we can determine why the temperature or pressure is getting too high in your water heater and fix the problem. If the valve has a leak, we can replace it with a new relief valve (a very common water heater repair).

If you have any questions about why your water heater’s relief valve is leaking, or if you’d like a plumbing system serviced or installed in your home, contact Cabrillo, your Bay Area plumbing, heating and air conditioning contractor.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

If you’ve noticed water pooling around your hot water heater, this may be because of the water heater pressure release valve. Wondering what this means, and what you should do about it? Find out now!

It typically consists of a valve that attaches to the side of the tank with a long copper tube or PVC tube that runs vertically downward, allowing water to drain out of the valve when necessary.

If you are having trouble finding the valve on your unit, or cannot identify it, we recommend searching for the make and model of your water heater on the internet. The manufacturer’s schematics and manuals will help you locate the water heater pressure relief valve.

The water heater pressure release valve, also known as the “temperature and pressure” (T&P) valve is a valve that helps control the pressure and temperature of your water heater, preventing it from overheating, becoming too highly pressurized, and potentially exploding.

The way this valve works is by sometimes letting a little bit of water drip out of the tank. When there is too much pressure inside the tank, the valve opens up to relieve this pressure and some water will drip out of it. This is normal, and indicates that the valve is functioning properly.

However, if your water heater pressure release valve is constantly leaking a lot of water, the water contains debris, or your valve is making a lot of noise like whistling and screeching, this may indicate that it has failed, and is not operating properly.

If your water heater pressure release valve only leaks every once in a while, this is normal. It’s doing its job, and there’s nothing to worry about. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it’s not draining constantly.

But if you notice the aforementioned issues like lots of drainage coming from the valve, water flooding, or whistling and screeching sounds from the valve, you should:

Turn off the power to the heater – You can flip the breaker attached to an electric heater, turn off the gas to a gas heater, or use an on/off switch if present on the heater itself.

Call G&C Plumbing to get help – Call us right away to get help. A damaged or failing water heater pressure relief valve could cause serious damage, so you need to work with a professional to repair or replace your water heater, as necessary.

Before you call G&C Plumbing for help, remember to shut off the power and water to your hot water heater. Then, call us today at 508-541-8783, and we’ll head your way first thing the next day.

We’ll check your water heater pressure relief valve, determine the source of the issue, and let you know your best option for restoring the proper, safe functionality of your hot water heater. Call today to get the help you need in Franklin or Bellingham, MA today.

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

A leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve is a major concern, especially if it’s the first time dealing with this problem. While some people tend to panic and get help immediately, others may just shrug their shoulders and assume that the leak is a common occurrence. However, there are many causes of leaks in water pressure relief valves. And all these must be addressed immediately given the high risks of property damage and hazards that can occur if the issue is ignored.

The pressure relief valve gives steam and water a chance to escape when either the pressure or temperature in the water tank gets too high. A malfunctioning valve can cause the water heater to explode and is the major cause of water heater explosions. In water heater pressure relief valves, the valve is set to open when the pressure exceeds 150 psi.

A leaking valve is not always a broken valve. In some cases, a water heater’s pressure relief valve may leak because it is functioning as intended. As excess pressure is relieved out of your water heater system, some water may leak. This necessitates the need to test the pressure in your water heater.

The process is not complicated. However, if you are not comfortable checking the water pressure, you can always contact your technician. To test the pressure, use a pressure gauge and attach it to either the cold-water pipe or the hot water pipe. However, one of the easiest places to connect the pressure gauge is the outdoor hose faucets. For this, ensure you purchase a pressure gauge that is designed for garden hoses.

Turn off all water outlets and faucets. The pressure reading should be between 40 psi- 80 psi. If the gauge shows a psi reading of 150 and above, then the cause of the leak could be high pressure. If the water pressure is normal and the leak is persistent, then high water pressure is not the cause of the leak.

If you get a high-pressure reading, then you could be dealing with a closed plumbing system issue. This means that when the water is heated, the pressure increases as it should. But with nowhere to go, the valves open to relieve the pressure. Luckily, this can be solved by installing an expansion tank that gives the pressure an outlet other than a pressure relief valve.

Although rare, your water heater’s pressure relief valve could be leaking as a result of excessively high temperatures. However, the water has to be near the boiling point. To check the water temperature, ensure you turn on the hot water faucet. Run the water for one minute and use a meat thermometer to take the temperature reading. The temperature should be around 120 degrees. If more than this, then you need to have the water heater checked. The water temperature would need to be close to 212 degrees to set off the relief valve.

While this is an uncommon occurrence, it is not far-fetched. Your technician could have used a pressure valve for another appliance since they have the same function. However, these other pressure relief valves are set to go off at a lower psi. For instance, boiler pressure valves go off at 30 psi. If installed in a water heater, you are likely to get leaks immediately after installation. As such, if you have had your water heater for years and only experienced the leaks after a long period, then this is an unlikely cause of the leak.

A slight leak may occur if your water heater’s pressure relief valve has not been opened for a while, say a few years. While this leak is normal and may not be an indicator of a problem with the water heater system, you may need to replace the valve if the leak becomes more serious. It is cheaper to replace the entire valve than to repair it and have to deal with the same problem later on.

A leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve could also be caused by a faulty pressure relief valve. While pressure relief valves barely break down, excessive wear and improper installation can cause extensive damage. Unfortunately, a faulty pressure valve can not be repaired and must be replaced. However, the cost of pressure valves is affordable and ranges around $30.

Know your water heater and how it functions– Water heaters can be intimidating, especially for people with less technical know-how.  Understand what every part of the system plays in heating water such as the water shutoff valve, drain valve, thermostat, and pressure relief valve. This eases the maintenance routine and ensures you have a fair understanding of any malfunctions.

Insulate the pipes and the water heater– By insulating both the cold water and hot water pipes, you get to prevent condensation while also reducing heat loss. Also, insulating the water heater helps to keep water hot when surrounded by cold air.

Carry out regular maintenance– Inspect your water heater monthly, ensuring that all valves and pipes are in good shape. This also helps you catch corrosion and leaks early enough before they turn out to be bigger problems. And every year, carry out a water heater flush. Given that you cannot pinpoint all problems, have a qualified technician inspect the system annually.

Regardless of the possible cause of a leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve, please contact a qualified plumber as soon as possible. And if you think it’s a problem that you can solve without getting help, ensure you have a qualified plumber confirm that the system is performing optimally after. Water heater issues should not be taken lightly as they can cause more issues, even explosions.

If you’ve been having issues with your water heater recently, you might find that you’re paying high energy bills, not getting access to hot water when you want it, or your water pressure is low.

Fortunately, by understanding how relief valves work, you can solve whatever problem you’re having with the one on your water heater. In this article, we’ll review everything you should know about this valve.

A water heater pressure relief valve, also referred to as a T&P valve, pressure relief valve, or water heater temperature valve is a safety feature that you can find on any water heater. The reason it’s there is to keep you safe in case the water pressure is too high.

Without this safety feature, your water heater could end up breaking. You could potentially end up with burns if the high water pressure is dangerously high.

This valve also ensures that there aren’t any leaks in your water heater, which would lead to low water pressure when you want to use it to wash the dishes or take a shower.

The water heater pressure relief valve is in place so that it can relieve excess pressure and temperature in a water heater if either of these is too high. Because this everyday appliance is a closed system, thermal expansion occurs in water heaters.

Here’s how it works. Whether your water heater is heated by electric elements or a gas burner, both the metal tank and the water inside expand when the hot water temperature is somewhere between 120 and 140 degrees.

It’s totally normal for the water and water heater to expand to a certain extend. After all, this is what naturally happens when the temperature rises.

However, when the temperature is 210 degrees—or the pressure is 150 pounds per inch (psi)—this is far too much pressure and heat in the water heater. If it’s the case, you should change your hot water heater temperature.

If your water heater pressure relief valve is working, this is when it will open. This releases steam and hot water from the discharge tube, making your water heater operate safely again.

On the micro-level, the functioning of this valve works like this. The relief valve itself has been set up by a professional or pre-designed to open when the temperature or pressure reaches a dangerous level.

When functioning properly, it will open as it’s designed to when the levels of heat or pressure are high. The liquid comes out through this auxiliary route, relieving the heat and pressure within the water tank.

This specific state that the water heater is in is called the “blowdown.” Usually, the “blowdown” is defined by professionals (and is used in the design or set up of the valve) as a specific pressure percentage.

The “blowdown” is usually somewhere between 2 and 20%. Once the pressure has reached the “blowdown” amount, the pressure relief valve will close again so that you can use the water heater as intended.

If you’ve been noticing any issues with your water heater pressure relief valve, then you need to know where it is on your water heater. Usually, you can find it on the top or side of this appliance. It’s a valve that’s connected to a plastic or metal discharge tube that points up.

The water heater pressure is already installed when you receive your water heater (or buy a home that has one already). It’s actually welded onto the tank; you’ll see a threaded inlet where it is.

This is for safety reasons. Everything has been done according to standards that have been mandated by plumbing codes. So if you’re having any issues with the valve, you’ll have to call a professional to have it fixed.

This said, if you’re only having issues with the discharge tube, this is easy to replace. You won’t have to drain or power down your water heater, and you can deal with it yourself.

This said, considering that there might be other issues causing discharge tube problems—issues connected to high water pressure or temperature—it’s safest to have a professional deal with this too.

If you suspect there’s a problem with your water heater pressure relief valve, you can do a test. This is actually good idea if you don’t have any problems at all, as this type of maintenance will protect your water heater—and yourself.

To get started, identify where the relief valve shut off is. Usually, you can find it upon the cold water feed, which is on top of the water tank, on the right side where the inlet is.

Finally, release the level so that it quickly snaps into the original position. If it doesn’t snap quickly into this original position, then your water heater valve isn’t working and needs to be replaced.

When your water heater pressure relief valve isn’t functioning properly, it’s usually for one of to two reasons. It either sticks so that it doesn’t properly open or close, or it has a leak, which means that it’s continually dripping, lowering your water pressure.

If your valve is sticky, then it becomes stuck in a closed (downward) or open (extended position). If it’s closed, then the valve won’t be able to relieve the heat or pressure that builds up in the closed water heater system. There could be a rupture as a result.

Sometimes, you can easily fix this problem by opening and closing the valve lever a few times. However, if it continues to stick, then you’ll need to replace it.

Your water heater is leaking? Make sure that it doesn’t come from the valve before replacing it. If your pressure relief valve is leaking, then this maybe because it isn’t seated properly in the tank’s threaded opening. This is quite a common issue if you’ve recently replaced your old valve with a new one. To fix this issue with this cause, you have to take several steps.

If the lever snaps into its original position and it’s still leaking, you need to turn off the gas valve by turning it to the off position. Then, shut the water off so you can replace the valve safely.

If a water pressure issue is what is causing the water heater pressure relief valve to not work, then it might be dangerous for you to change the valve yourself. Generally speaking, it’s a good idea to hire a professional to protect yourself.

Now that we’ve reviewed everything you should know about a water heater pressure relief valve you might have realized that you need to replace your water heater valve. However, to be as safe as possible, you want to hire a professional.

A water heater is an essential appliance in any household; One that is tough to go without for even the shortest period. Naturally, a problem with a water heating unit can quickly become a source of stress. Discovering water on the floor of your home is likely to spark many questions: Why is my water heater leaking? Is it a dangerous situation? How much will it cost to fix?

Fortunately, many leaks are merely the result of overflow valves at work. While any sign of unexpected water in the home is undoubtedly a concern, these types of issues can often be resolved without significant expenditures of time or money. Read on to learn more about these invaluable valves, why they leak, and what can be done to restore your heater to full strength.

A water heater overflow valve is designed to prevent excessive pressure from building up inside the unit’s tank. For this reason, the valves are sometimes called pressure or temperature and pressure relief valves. Similar to a circuit breaker’s job of preventing electrical system overload, this valve allows water to escape from an over-pressurized unit to avert a potentially catastrophic outcome.

In rare instances, pressure relief valves for boilers are inadvertently installed on water heaters due to their similar appearances. This installation will almost always result in problems, as such valves are only designed to allow for pressure levels up to 30 psi (pounds per square inch), as opposed to the 150 psi needed for water heaters.

It is also important to note that leaks can originate from other parts of a water heater, or can even stem from other adjacent sources. Verify that nearby pipes or appliances (such as water softeners) aren’t the roots of leaks before proceeding.

Once you have determined that your overflow valve is the actual source of your leak, there are several recommended steps to take. The first and most basic is to replace the valve; this part can generally be found for under $20. ― Do not attempt to reuse a blown valve.

Whether you intend to replace this part yourself, it is advisable to turn your water heater off at the first indication of a leak. On electric units, switch off the appropriate circuit breaker to safely cut power. For gas-powered heaters, either switch the control dial to the “Off” position or if necessary, shut off the gas valve itself. If leaking water is continuous, terminate the cold water supply as well.

If you do not feel confident replacing a water heater overflow valve on your own, it is smart to call on a professional for assistance. The upfront cost may run a little higher, but the price of having the job done right the first time can save you plenty of dollars in the long run.

Should a new overflow valve fail to resolve your water heater problems, it may be necessary to take further action. Persistent leaks typically point to more significant concerns than a bad valve, such as the condition of a closed plumbing system. This can occur when a regulator is installed on a home’s water main to protect its system from excessive pressure, which can, in turn, prevent water from expanding back out through the cold water inlet.

There are plenty of hazards associated with leaking water in the home, starting with the significant risk of property damage. The Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety notes that water heater failures cost homeowners an average of over $4,400 post-deductible. That number increases substantially when units are placed on the first floor rather than the basement level.

Water damage and mold are two examples of leak-related issues that only become more costly to repair over time. When you observe leaking water in your home, make a wise choice—contact an experienced professional and get on top of problems before they become worse. Day & Night Air is the plumber Phoenix residents trust for all their maintenance needs, whether it is s a routine service call or emergency repairs. Contact us today for all of your residential and light commercial plumbing needs.

If a recently replaced T&P relief valve starts leaking again, it probably means that the relief valve is only doing it"s job; it relieving excess pressure in the water heater.  When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved.  I"ll explain.

When a water heater heats up the water in the tank, the water expands.  When this happens, the water typically ends up expanding back out the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming in to the house.  The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank... and nobody notices.  This is illustrated in the diagram below.

What would happen if a one-way valve, or check valve, was installed on the water supply piping for the house?  The water wouldn"t have anywhere to go.  As the water heater heats the water, it expands, which builds up pressure in what is now essentially a closed system.  When the pressure builds up enough, the T&P relief valve on the water heater just does it"s job and relieves the excess pressure by leaking a little water.

In Minnesota it"s rare for a check valve to be installed on the water supply line for the house, but it"s fairly common to have a pressure regulator installed.  When the pressure from the water supply coming in to a house is too high, a pressure regulator needs to be installed on the water main, to prevent damage to the plumbing components in the house.  The problem that these regulators can create is that they will act as a check valve; they"ll allow water in to the home, but they won"t allow water back out.  This creates what is called a "closed system".

When this happens, the T&P relief valve for the water heater can leak.  This doesn"t happen every time a pressure reducing valve is installed, but there may be other problems that show up in the house, such as the toilet fill valves randomly re-filling toilets, or faucets chronically dripping.

The FixWhen a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system.  This is a fairly simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the T&P relief valve on the water heater will stop causing problems.

This rule also applies to hot water heating systems; when a boiler heats the water in a hydronic heating system, the expansion tank allows for the water to expand without the pressure relief valve leaking.  If the pressure relief valve on a boiler system chronically leaks, even after replacement, it probably means there is a problem with the expansion tank.

It can be all too easy to forget about your water heater when everything appears to be working correctly. However, a stuck or faulty pressure relief valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to reach dangerous levels — with potentially explosive results. Therefore, testing your water heater pressure relief valve should be at the top of your home maintenance checklist.

You don"t need to be a professional plumber to check your water heater"s safety mechanisms. With the right knowledge, even novice DIY-ers can test their water heater pressure relief valves.

A water heater pressure relief valve is exactly what it says on the tin: a safety mechanism that prevents excessive pressure from building up in your water heater"s tank. Without it, there would be a risk of the tank bursting and flooding your house. A bursting water tank can also cause serious injury and damage to your home"s structure, so keeping the pressure relief valve in good working order is essential.

Pressure inside your water tank occurs when the water expands and produces steam as it heats. The hotter the water, the greater the potential for high pressure. Although some pressure is normal and can escape through the pipes supplying your fixtures, the pressure relief valve activates when the pressure exceeds safe levels. It releases some hot water and steam until the pressure level normalizes.

A water heater pressure relief valve is a short, flat lever attached to a pipe running through the water heater. Its location varies depending on what water heater model you have, but you can usually find it above the tank or high up on one of the sides.

Sometimes, a water heater"s pressure relief valve can get stuck due to a build-up of deposits. Corrosion can also damage the valve and stop it from working correctly. A stuck or broken valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to exceed the safe limit, so it"s crucial to test it regularly.

You can test your water heater pressure relief valve by opening it slightly with a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Don"t force the valve open if you feel resistance. You"ll know that your valve is working properly if you can see or hear water and gas escaping. If you can"t see water escaping, or you can"t turn the valve easily, it"s time to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve. You should also call a plumber if you see signs that the valve is leaking, such as water pooling on the floor under the tank.

Sometimes, a water heater pressure relief valve will start leaking after you test it, even if the test shows that it"s working correctly. You can often solve this problem by gently opening and closing the valve a few times to remove any deposits stopping it from shutting. Call a plumber to check and repair the leak if this doesn"t work.

You should test your water heater pressure relief valve once or twice each year. The more often you check the valve, the higher the chances of detecting a problem early and preventing a costly leak or burst tank.

One of the most effective ways to prevent problems with your water heater"s pressure relief valve is to ensure that the drain line is installed correctly. It should angle downwards and match the valve"s exhaust port size to allow water to drain properly and prevent corrosion. It"s also essential to use a drain line made from heat-resistant material, like copper. You should call a plumber to replace the drain line if you"re concerned that your installation is incorrect.

Insulating the drain line can stop it from freezing in cold weather. A frozen drain line will stop the pressure release valve from functioning correctly, even if it"s otherwise in good condition.

When you open a water heater pressure relief valve, the water that drips out will be very hot. Therefore, it"s essential to wear protective gloves and eyewear and avoid opening the valve all the way. You may also wish to consider wearing protective clothing to protect your skin against burns.

You will need to replace your water heater pressure relief valve if it"s stuck or damaged. A plumber can tell you whether it"s best to repair the valve or replace it altogether. Furthermore, it"s wise to replace the valve every five years or so, especially if it hasn"t been tested recently.

Leaking water heaters are bad news. With over 1,000,000,000,000 gallonsof water leaking from American homes, homeowners need to be proactive to avoid excessive water wastage and high water bills. Unfortunately, the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety observed that 75 percent of water heatersfail before the 12-year mark. Since water heaters aren’t usually visible, most homeowners easily forget to conduct routine maintenance to prevent significant issues leading to the corrosion of the water tank resulting in a burst or slow leak. Though it may seem a minor issue, it can become a significant problem if not handled promptly by a water heater repair technician. Below are the most common causes of leaking water heaters that homeowners in Vancouver, WA, should be looking for.

Some homeowners may not realize that water heater tanks can explode when water heats up, generating unregulated steam. A typical functioning water heater releases little amounts of water down via the overflow pipe to reduce the internal pressure in the tank. The moment you notice that water is dripping from the stem or temperature and pressure relief valve, the valve may be corroded, broken, or cracked. You only need to contact a water heater repairexpert to replace the temperature and pressure relief valve in such a situation. Sometimes even after replacing the temperature and pressure relief valve, the pressure may still be extremely high, causing water heater leakage. We may recommend an expansion tank to rectify such a problem. The expansion tank reduces the internal temperature and ensures the rising water has a place to escape.

This is the most vital part of the water heater. It plays a crucial role in protecting the inside of the water heater tank from corrosion and rust through electrolysis, in which the rod corrodes and collects rust before the inside of the tank. The moment you note that this rod is worn out and needs to be replaced, it’s essential to contact a water heater repairprofessional to prolong the unit’s life span and avoid any leakages. Homeowners need to understand that there are three types of anode rods available in the market, aluminum, zinc, and magnesium. Aluminum is a perfect choice against hard water, while magnesium is recommended for homes with soft water. On the other hand, zinc rods help lower the odors associated with the sulfur smell from the water.

Problems with the heating element gaskets happen over time. In the long run, water heater tanks age causing the gaskets to become corroded and weak. Eventually, water starts leaking from the tank. The major challenge with gaskets is that they are difficult to reach because they are inside and located under the insulation. Thus you have to hire a water heater repair expert to remove the access panel to get to them. A professional repair expert will use a water heater element wrench to solve such a problem.

The water source enters the water heater via the cold-water inlet valve in most homes. The heated water leaves the tank through the hot water outlet. Eventually, these inlets and the fittings beneath become worn, creating a not air-tight seal. When inspecting the outlets, a water heater repair specialist will look out for cracks, corrosion, and other deformities. A replacement is usually recommended when both the inlet and the outlet are faulty.

This problem is commonly seen in old or corroded water heaters. Continuous usage of the cold water shut-off valve and the flow of sediments through it causes the seal around the valve to become worn out and start leaking air. A water heater repair professional will use a wrench and a replacement part to fix the cold water shut-off valve.

When you note signs such as water dripping at the bottom of the water heater or find water puddles on the floor, you should immediately check your drain valve. When homeowners clean and flush their tanks to remove built-up sediments, faulty drain valves may happen. Hence the drain valve may be unable to close due to sediments getting caught in the opening of the valve. Corrosion can also cause your drain valve to leak. In the long run, these valves will rust and break down. The long-lasting solution is to call a water heater repair expert to replace the drain valve.

Sometimes homeowners may experience water heaters leaking at the bottom, yet the drain valve is in perfect condition. In such a situation, the problem might be internal. Over time, sediments in the water heater break down the thermal on the inside. Small holes form when the thermal breaks down, and water starts leaking out. When this happens, it’s crucial to get in touch with a water heater repair company to have it entirely replaced.

Sometimes homeowners in Vancouver, WA, may notice that their brand new water heaters are leaking. This should not cause any alarm because it’s normal for the new units to leak a little bit at first. This phenomenon is because water heaters remain in storage until they are purchased; therefore, humidity may collect on insulation on the inside, and it’s released once individuals start using the water heater.

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The pressure relief valve on your water heater is an essential component to providing year-round comfort and keeping you and your family safe. Without this component, your water heater could overheat—causing it to break down. View our tips to become familiar about how this relief valve works and how to spot common issues.

You will find a water heater pressure relief valve on just about every standard hot water heater. Once the pressure and/or temperature inside your water heater gets too high, this component relieves the excess pressure. This decrease helps the temperature to return to a safe and stable level. The relief valve also prevents water leaks and keeps the water pressure from getting too low.

A valve is a one-way pipe that allows elements to pass through it. Here’s how a water pressure relief valve works: when the internal temperature of your water heater increases to a certain point, the appliance will naturally expand.

This expansion, however, should be limited. When the temperature gets too high, the relief valve opens to expel excess hot water and steam from the water heater so it doesn’t overheat.

You should always know where to find the pressure relief valve on your water heater in the case of an emergency. This device is typically located on the top or side of the appliance and is attached to an upward-pointing discharge tube.

If your water heater’s pressure relief valve has gone bad, you’ll probably know it. Here are the five most common signs that you need to repair or replace this device.

The most obvious and dangerous sign that your water heater pressure relief valve has gone bad is if it causes flooding in your home. If you experience this problem, cut off the water supply and have a professional come out to fix it.

Two common water heater sounds are rattling and whistling, both of which result from built-up steam that can’t escape the unit. If the steam can’t escape properly, that means the pressure relief valve isn’t working.

As the water heater pressure relief valve ages, it can start to corrode and make the water in your unit dirty. If this becomes a consistent problem, have a technician take a look at the valve. You’ll likely need to clean, repair, or replace it.

Since the pressure relief valve removes excess hot water from your unit, it will naturally leak some water from time to time. But if it leaks excessively and often, you’ll need to take a look at the valve.

While it’s normal for some water to leak from the pressure relief valve, the unit itself should never leak water. This can happen when the valve doesn’t properly relieve pressure from the unit and, in response, the tank ruptures.

If you’re looking for safe, reliable, and high-quality water heater repair and water heater installation services in the Northern Virginia area, call our team of technicians by phone at (703) 543-9649. With 50 years of experience in the HVAC and plumbing industries, we have become the trusted choice for achieving premium home comfort. In addition, our team of licensed plumbers offer other types of plumbing services such as sink installation, sump pump repair, gas line installation, and sewer line replacement. Our team of technicians won’t let you down. Schedule an appointment with one of our technicians today.

This article describes the causes of leaks, drips, or discharges from pressure relief valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, or TP valves found on heating boilers, water heaters, or the simpler pressure relief valves found on water pressure tanks.

We list the wide variety of possible TP Valve leaks and how to find and fix each of those problems, including how to fix a leaky pressure relief valve or leaky TP valve on a boiler, water heater, or water tank - what are the possible causes of leaks at these safety devices. Safety Hazard Warnings About Dripping or Leaking Pressure Relief Valves.

How to use an expansion tank to relieve high water pressure. T&P Valves Installed on Gas Sidearm Heaters: special problems. Closed Hot Water System & Thermal Expansion Problems.

So if you see water actually spilling or even if it"s just dripping at the temperature/pressure relief valve on your heating boiler or water heater, the cause needs to be found and fixed promptly, and it may be appropriate to install a new T&P valve (also called TPR valve) after those repairs are complete.

Gas sidearm heater TP valves: The T&P valve is installed on a sidearm gas heater that is causing an overheat condition at the sensor point of the valve (This thermal expansion is discussed

Expansion tank defects or problems: if the expansion tank or compression tank on a hydronic heating system boiler or on other thermal expansion systems is itself defective (waterlogged, leaky, damaged internal bladder) system pressures will be excessive due to otherwise normal pressure & temperature variations during system operation, resulting in spillage at the relief valve.

Leaks into the heating boiler or water heater: leaks into a heating of water from a higher pressure building source can cause recurrent TP valve leaking. For example, if the tankless coil in a heating boiler is leaky, higher pressure water inside the tankless coil may leak out of the coil into the heating boiler.

Similarly, an internal leak in the heat exchanger coil of an indirect water heater can send water from the water heater"s potable water into the coil and thence into the heating boiler.

This same leak problem can cause high water pressure in a heating boiler that is used to heat water in an indirect-fired water heater. In that case, a coil containing boiler water (typically at 12-29 psi) that develops a leak may accept higher building pressure water from the building water supply to the indirect water eater tank (or cylinder) that is typically between 20 psi and 70 psi.

Diagnose this problem by observing that when the boiler is left OFF and its own water feeder is left OFF but building water supply is left ON into the tankless coil on the boiler or ON into the indirect water heater, boiler pressure will creep up several hours. With a reader we discuss this possible TP valve leak cause in the FAQs section of this article.

Watch out: under normal conditions, because building water supply pressures are above boiler pressures, an internal leak in the tankless coil or indirect water heater"s heat exchanger coil will cause boiler pressures to rise. But there can be exceptions in the direction of water leakage, as we explain

A deteriorated gasket inside the relief valve or corrosion on the valve seat can cause leaking at the valve; we find this mess occurring when someone lifts the "test lever" on a older P/T valve that has not been tested or operated for some time. A brittle piece of gasket can be spit out of the valve and it will then keep leaking.

The wrong T&P valve has been installed or set to too-low a working pressure. (Proper set pressure is at least 20-30 psi above the working pressure of the equipment to be protected).

Thermal expansion problems: A closed water system with thermal expansion and no means of relief can cause leaks at the pressure/temperature relief valve, such as

Can occur on a hot water heater (hot water cylinder, calorifier, hot water tank) with some building piping arrangements, particularly where a check valve or pressure reducing valve are used.

See THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS for an explanation of why thermal expansion leaks occur at the relief valve on hot water systems & what to do about it

Can occur also a hot water heating boiler (used for building heating) at which the boiler"s thermal expansion tank has become waterlogged or has a ruptured internal bladder.

Water expansion pressure (thermal expansion) increases in any closed plumbing system, particularly where a check valve installed close to the water heater.

Watts suggests installing a bypass model water pressure regulator that lets the excessive pressure head back to the street main or building water supply system - a solution that only works if the supply pressure is lower than the T&P relief valve spill pressure - which it usually is.

Water hammer: The building plumbing system suffers from water hammer. Water hammer in buildings causes surging in the water piping that in turn can cause leaks at pressure/temperature or other pressure relief valves, particularly at the pressure safety valve found at water pressure tanks.

Water heater temperature too high: The water heater temperatures are excessive. For example on an electric water heater a malfunctioning control can overheat the water e.g. the water heater thermostat is not working properly and is not shutting off the heat source when it should -

Water pressure too high: The building water supply pressure is too high or periodically water pressure fluctuates and is too high at times. Pressures over 70 psi in a typical building tend to cause leaks at plumbing fixtures and higher pressures are likely to cause or contribute to leaks at TPR valves.

Water pressure reducing valve / water feed valve problems: On a hot water hydronic heating system, if the water pressure reducer/feeder valve is not working properly it may over-feed water into the heating system causing overpressure.

Combinations of factors causing TP Valve Leaks: OK so this is more than 12 causes of TPR valve leaks, but keep in mind that the temperature/pressure relief valve leak causes listed above can also occur in combination. For example high incoming water pressure alone may not cause a TPR valve to leak but if we add water hammer then the valve may be leaky.

As our photo shows (above left), mineral salts left behind as hot water evaporates from the mouth of a pressure or temperature relief valve can completely clog the spring that is intended to allow the relief valve to open under excess (unsafe) pressure.

The impaction of the relief valve spring with copper and calcium salts in this photo means that the valve is almost certainly not going to open should the heater"s internal pressure become unsafe.

The drip shown at the mouth of this relief valve demonstrates that a relief valve can drip and leak for a long time without anyone observing this dangerous condition.

Technical note: why must the TP Valve point "down"? Take a look at the photo above. If a relief valve is dripping the deposit of minerals inside the valve will accumulate still more rapidly if the valve points to the side or upwards. The result is a clogged valve as we explain above - a dangerous situation that risks an explosion.

Watch out, serious safety hazards can be caused by dripping at the TP discharge line: often the dripping is caused by thermal expansion of hot water.

For details please see THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS - an explanation of why thermal expansion leaks occur on hot water systems & what to do about it

Also see HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE - for an explanation of just how much pressure increase to expect when heating water. In explaining why the relief valve on a water heater may be dripping

With a sidearm gas heater a common problem is frequent T&P valve opening even though there is very little hot water in the hot water storage tank. That"s because an overheated condition exists right at the sensor point of the T&P valve - most of the overheated water is "congested" at the top of the tank.

This problem can be caused by undersized circulation piping between the sidearm heater and the water tank. Undersized piping between the sidearm heater and the tank (supply or return) amounts to a restriction of the circulation area (or volume).

When this "too small" circulation area or volume is combined with a heater whose BTU input rate is higher than that undersized volume can carry, proper circulating does not occur through the tank nor through the sidearm heater coils themselves - the "congestion" referred to above occurs.

In turn this congestion (think of it as a hot water traffic jam) causes overheating right where the T&P valve sensor is located, thus causing the valve to spill hot water repeatedly.

Because there is just a small volume of "too hot" water where the valve is located, the valve opens, spills the small amount of hot water, then is cooled and closes after just a short interval.

[The system we used for years used 1 1/4" diameter copper piping - Ed.] Non-ferrous piping is preferred to reduce the chances of clogging from rust debris - a clue that warns us that even 3/4" piped gas sidearm heaters can clog from rust or scale formation and will then exhibit this problem if the piping is iron.

With an automatic gas storage heater installation, either the heater thermostat is acting abnormally (not shutting off when it should) or stacking temperature conditions are causing this TP leak. - paraphrased & adapted from information from the Watts Regulator Company. [10]

RELIEF VALVE LEAKS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1] "Residential Electric Water Heater Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide", American Water Heater Co., October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source: americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf [copy on file] [Technical review requested 1/25/2011]

[3] Pounds of lime deposited vs. temperature and hot water usage: see Purdue Bulletin #74 (also provided by A.O. Smith in the article below). Purdue"s chart shows the number of pounds of lime deposited per year as a function of the water usage in gallons per day, with an assumed 10 grains of water hardness.

[4] "When, Why, and How to Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Glass-Lined Water Heaters (for non glass-lined tanks, consult water heater manufacturer)" PDF provided by A.O. Smith Water Products Company - hotwater.com/lit/training/4800r9.pdf 800-433-2545 - 01/07/2009.

[6] A.O. Smith"s Form No. 4778* All about Deliming Coil-Type/Tube-Type Commercial Water Heaters and Hydronic Boilers *Normally supplied when ordering Part No. 4930 Motorized Deliming Pump Kit

[7] "Building Owner Water Heater Safety Notice", Building Department, City of Colleyville TX, web search 09/24/2010, original source: http://www.colleyville.com/dmdocuments/Building%20

Water heater safety is imperative to the occupants of a building or structure. If improperly installed, water heaters can be detrimental to the structure, as well as being potentially fatal to its occupants. The proper installation of a water heater is so important that according to Texas State Law all water heater installations must be inspected by a state licensed plumbing inspector.

[8] Rheem Electric Water Heater "Owners Guide and Installation Instructions", (Australian models) rheem.com.au/images/pdf/owners_dom-elec_121996C_0707.pdf

[9] Watts, 815 Chestnut Street, North Andover, MA, USA 01845-6098, web search 09/18/2010 original source: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/reducingValves.asp?catId=64

[11] "Four hurt as water heater explodes", Elaine Porterfield, Paul Shukovsky, Lewis Kamb, Seattle Post Intelligencer, 28 July 2001, web search 25 Sept 2010, original source: http://www.seattlepi.com/local/33094_boom28.shtml

In small scale testing, the Mythbusters started with a small six gallon water heater and disabled all of its safety features under the theory of poor installation or neglect. While the water heater eventually ruptured, it did not explode like a rocket. The Mythbusters then upgraded to larger thirty gallon water heater which exploded with significantly greater force, sending the water heater several hundred feet into the air. In order to confirm the stated myth, the Mythbusters obtained a full size fifty two gallon water heater and built a shack around it with a roof that followed standard California building codes. The water heater eventually exploded, shooting through the roof five hundred feet into the air and disintegrating the shack. In light of these results, and the fact that there is documented evidence corroborating the myth, the Mythbusters deemed it confirmed.

Because of built in safety devices most water heaters safely operate day in, day out without any major problems. But don"t let the excellent safety record of water heaters lull you into forgetting about the explosive potential of these marvels of convenience. When a water heater explodes, it releases a tremendous blast force which can easily demolish a building.

Randall Hilton and crew, with help from the Service Roundtable has prepared this video of a water heater explosion as a demonstration of the explosive power of a simple water heater. The hot water tank explodes using the steam pressure that any water heater can generate when the thermostat and temperature pressure relief valve (T&P valve or PT valve) malfunction. We were impressed by how far the tank flew after the water heater exploded. Click on the links below to view the video. Then, visit the Q&A page for warning signs as well as simple steps which can help you prevent your own water heater from exploding.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

Most homeowners are capable of doing a lot of their It"s technically not a pressure relief valve (or reducing). Those are installed on the mainline of the house. On a water heater, it"s called a T&P valve (temperature and pressure) or a pop-off valve.

The T&P valve serves an essential function as a safety feature. It offers your water heater built-in protection against high pressure and hot temperatures. It"s pretty standard for the pop-off valve to need replacement during the life of your water heater. The telltale sign that it needs replacement is when you see it dripping or leaking water. When you need a new valve, try one of the following options:

Drain a little water from the tank. It only needs to fall below the pop-off valve, wherever that resides. If you have a top mount configuration, you only need to drain a little bit. For side mounts, you probably need to drain about 10 gallons. You might take this opportunity to flush the water heater entirely, removing minerals and sediment in the tank. For a complete tutorial, read

Install the new T&P valve. Wrapping pipe thread tape around the threads of the valve, screw it into place. You should use a wrench, but you do not want to overtighten it.

Check for leaking. Fill the tank back up by opening the water supply valve back up. When the water level rises to the level of the new T&P valve, you can look for leaks.

Our best advice is don"t test the T&P valve. The reason is that the test requires you to flick the release lever. This action can cause an old valve to start leaking. Why rock the boat if it"s still working? Just give the T&P valve a thorough visual exam, looking for leaks, and call it good.

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I woke up today to a full drip pan under the gas water heater and my utility room slowly flooding with water. Of course the drip pan was never connected to a drain and overflowing.

After shutting off the water to the water heater the flooding stopped completely. I did some investigation and noticed whenever I manually open the top mounted pressure valve I can tell that some water is discharged through the connected pipe, but I can also hear an amount of water flowing down somewhere inside the water heater. I cannot see any water or wetness when looking closely at the valve connection at the top. I am not sure where the water could be leaking inside the unit. The relief valve is connected to pipe that does not drain into the pan btw. It leaves the room through the wall behind the water heater and does not show any signs of leakage.

Could it help to replace the pressure valve? Is it likely there is a hole in the tank somewhere, but if so why doesn"t it leak all the time but only when I open the pressure valve?

I am planning to buy a pressure meter today and check the house water pressure as well as test the pressure on the heater when I reopen the water supply. Will update later with readings.

*Update: I did test the pressure and the house pressure was a little high (75psi, which I now lowered to 65). I also found where the water comes into the drip pan. It is right from the burning chamber, but again, it only flows when I open the pressure relief valve on top of the unit. I can also hear air bubbles moving up while having the relief valve open, so the outflow is replaced by air. (See new photo with markings)