air compressor safety valve leaking factory

Valve leakage is a common but troublesome occurrence in industrial facilities. While some valves are expected to have a certain level of leakage, especially as they begin to reach nameplate set pressure, other valve leakage is problematic and can even be dangerous for your facility. If you suspect valve leakage, here are a few reasons why your safety or pressure relief valve may be leaking, how to test the valve, and how to troubleshoot a valve you’ve confirmed is leaking. Four common reasons a pressure relief valve might be leaking include:

Pressure relief and safety relief valves will leak if the valve isn’t fully closed. This is a common problem in industrial settings where environments are often dusty or dirty. If there is any debris in the valve, it can obstruct the valve from fully closing, causing it to leak.

Pressure relief valves age and can begin to deteriorate, especially in factories and facilities where they encounter extreme temperatures and a great deal of wear. Over time, valves can become damaged, which affects their ability to close properly. If there is any damage or excessive wear to the valve seat or seal, leakage is likely.

Another common cause of safety relief valve leakage is when the valve is the wrong size for the project. Whether it’s a loose fit or the wrong fit entirely, a poorly fitting valve won’t be able to function properly, and will often leak.

If you suspect a leaking safety relief valve, or if you would like to complete regular maintenance to prevent valve leakage in the first place, it’s good to know that it is possible to test for a leaking valve. Known as a seat tightness or leakage test, these tests maintain the pressure relief valve’s inlet pressure at a certain percentage of the valve’s set pressure, so the valve technician can assess the valve’s condition.

The AccuTEST inline valve testing system offers a unique feature —  the Lift and Hold test — specifically designed to test for leakage. The system performs an automated leakage test according to the operator’s requirements. The operator sets the percent of set pressure and the duration of the test. When the operator starts the test, the AccuTEST system takes over, holding the valve at the appointed percentage of set pressure for the specified duration. While the system holds the valve at pressure, the operator is able to count any bubbles in the valve to assess its condition and determine whether the valve is leaking or not.

When you have confirmed the source of the leak, you can assess whether the valve could be repaired, or if it should be completely replaced. For example, if the valve is the wrong size or if the valve is damaged, it’s best to replace it. If the valve can be cleaned and adjusted to function properly, then repair may be an option.

Once your leaking safety relief valve has been repaired or replaced and is functioning as it should, it’s important to consider implementing regular maintenance and testing. Leaking pressure relief valves can present serious complications for the functionality of your facility. Implementing a regular maintenance and pressure relief valve testing schedule can help you stay in front of concerns like this, ensuring your facility is running efficiently, and at pressure, at all times.

If you are concerned about a leaking safety or pressure relief valve, or are seeking inline valve testing equipment that is capable of performing seat tightness or leakage tests, you might be interested in AccuTEST’s equipment. With exclusive Lift and Hold testing capabilities, AccuTEST inline pressure relief valve testing equipment offers the functionality you need. See how our equipment works in real-time — schedule a live webinar demo today.

Pressure relief valves ensure efficiency and safety in many chemical, oil, and gas plants, but they’re susceptible to leaks. If a pressure relief valve is leaking, systems can become overpressurized and even fail, especially if the valve isn’t addressed or repaired quickly.

When you shut down the system, carefully examine the pipelines and the valve itself to determine the cause of the leak. This will help you figure out exactly what you need to do to repair it.

Pressure relief valve leaks usually occur when the valve isn’t properly seated or when the seal is broken or damaged. Leaks can also happen when the pressure relief valve is operating too closely to the set point.

For the first repair, you should tighten or replace the bonnet bolts and tighten the packing gland nuts. You want to make sure that you follow manufacturer repair guidelines for the first repair.

If the valve isn’t completely repaired after your first attempt, you have up to 15 days to perform any additional repairs according to the EPA. If the valve still isn’t fixed, then you can either replace the pressure relief valve or wait until the next shutdown cycle to do more repairs.

When the pressure relief valve has been fixed or replaced, it’s important to take the necessary steps to avoid leaks in the future. To do that, consider implementing a leak detection and repair (LDAR) program for your company.

An LDAR program will help to train workers on everything they need to know about detecting and repairing a leak before system damage can occur. It will also help you monitor valves more efficiently so you can spot leaks faster and spend less money on overall valve repair and maintenance costs.

What happens when you pressurize an air tank beyond its rated pressure? It fails catastrophically and ruptures in a spectacular way that you wouldn’t want to witness firsthand.

Most air compressors have a number of precautions built in to avoid the risk of a tank rupture. The compressor itself will probably have an automatic shut-off control that turns off the motor once the maximum tank pressure is reached.

In case the auto-shutoff switch fails, there will typically also be a safety valve built into the tank. Such safety valves, such as the Conrader hard seat valve shown above, are rated to specific pressures. A 100 PSI valve will open up at ~100 PSI in order to vent excess air to keep the pressure at or below 100 PSI.

Essentially, safety valves have spring-loaded pistons. Below their factory-set pressures, internal springs hold the pistons downward, creating a seal. But once the pressure inside a tank or device overcomes the built-in pressure limit of a safety valve, the piston is pushed upwards, opening the valve seal to lower and equalized the air pressure.

Safety valves typically also have loops attached to the pistons so that you can manually rapidly depressurize a device or air tank. You should check safety valves every now and then to ensure they can open freely.

There are two main types of safety valves – hard seat and soft seat valves. Hard seat valves are rugged and inexpensive, but typically leak a little bit. Soft seat valves are a little less rugged and more expensive, but they are built with better seals that aren’t as prone to leaking.

I went with Conrader hard seat valve for a recent project, but there are other good brands as well. Safety valves are available in a wide range of pressures and in different styles.

Amazon carries a couple of valves directly and through 3rd party vendors, but your best bet is to check with Grainger, Zoro, McMaster Carr, or another industrial suppliers that have wider selections.

If the tank is over pressurized, the pressure switch isn"t shutting off the motor when the air tank fills to the cut-out pressure. Move the pressure switch lever to the off position. If the compressor continues to run, replace the pressure switch, because the switch isn"t shutting off the compressor motor.

If the compressor shuts off when you move the pressure switch lever to the off position, pull the safety valve ring and release all air from the tank. Switch the pressure switch lever to the on position and allow the tank to fill. If the compressor doesn"t shut off when the air tank fills to the cut-out pressure, replace the pressure switch, because the switch isn"t shutting off the compressor motor when tank pressure reaches the cut-out pressure.

An air compressor check valve is a device that allows fluid or air to flow in only one direction. When your compressor reaches the unload pressure, the check valves closes to prevent backflow of the air from the tank to the compressor head.

A quick note on check valves: Many times people will find air leaking from the pressure switch. When this occurs, they immediately purchase and install a new pressure switch. Because air still leaks, they call and state that the switch is defective.

If air is leaking consistently, the problem is not the pressure switch - it is the check valve. More than likely it is filled with debris and is not sealing. When this occurs the check valve either needs to be cleaned or replaced.

Any place that you would have high pressure, you will also need a pressure relief valve (also known as a safety valve). A pressure relief valve releases air smoothly and consistently into the atmosphere from the compressor tank if the air pressure becomes too much.

Generally a relief valve will have male threads on one end, with a ring on the other end (as displayed in the photo). By pulling the ring, you are releasing compressed air into the atmosphere in a safe manner. It is pretty rare that you will ever have to use a PRV, but it is necessary to ensure safety.

An air compressor pressure switch is an instrument which senses a change in pressure and automatically adds or decreases air in the tank. Most homeowners simply know the pressure switch as the device that contains the on/off lever.

Certain air compressors have specific pressure switches that are designed specifically for the machine. Campbell Hausfeld is one company that makes uses a specific switch for each of their compressors. The CW301300AJ kit is by far the most popular.

There are also more generic pressure switches that vary depending on what your cut-in and cut-out pressure is. The photo to the right displays a typical pressure switch that is common on many homeowner style compressors. The small red piece at the top is the on/off switch for the machine.

Depending on the type of compressor you have, an air compressor belt is an essential component of your machine. Most homeowner and smaller handcarry compressors do not use a belt. When you get involved with wheelbarrow or stationary compressors, belts become necessary (especially with virtually all Ingersoll Rand air compressors).A belt works with the pump to help spin the motor to the correct horse power.

Sizes and styles vary across the board. Everything from grooves, length, and width will change depending on the type of compressor that you have. To help find the correct belt for your compressor, we recommend finding you model number and giving us a call.

Generally, most air compressors come complete with two pressure gauges. Most will have one gauge near the pressure switch to display thepressure setting, and another gauge to indicate the air pressure in the tank.

Although an air gauge may not seem like an extremely important part - it is. Having a broken or non functioning gauge means that you will not know the pressure setting at your application, which can result in the incorrect use of your tools.

Simply put, the unloader valve unloads air when the receiver reaches its set point. Most of the time an unloader valve is located at ornear the pressure switch, and when the switch is turned either on or off, the unloader valve is either opened or closed.

There are many different varieties of unloaders available. They will vary by the type of compressor as well as the manufacturer. By givingus a call at 1-866-208-2797, we can generally let you know what type of valve is necessary.

Intake filters are pretty much self explanatory. They filter the air for the first time as it is brought into the system. These are very important to your compressor system, and the operator needs to ensure that they are clean and free from debris.

In-line filters are placed throughout the piping system to ensure that clean air is reaching the end product. It is pretty rare for homeowners and people with small consumer grade compressors to use an in-line filter. In industrial applications they become much more common. Using an in-line filter will make sure that the end line is free from particles and debris,which will ensure that your compressor tools and attachments will last for many years to come.

Generally this will only apply if you have an industrial or stationary compressor. Homeowner and small contractor compressors do not have auto-drains available, as they are all manualdrains. There is a drain on the bottom of the compressor, which should be opened every two days at a minimum (generally once a day is a good idea). this drain helps to remove any waterfrom the compressor tank. If water is left for long periods of time, rust will start to accumulate in the tank.

An auto drain eliminates the need to manually drain the tank every day. It is equipped with a timer that automatically opens the drain at a set time each day. Lets face it, people can forget and mistakes can be made. Therefore, an auto drain is almost always recommended for applications that require consistent air. It makes life easier and helps to prevent mishaps from occurring.

There are various types of gaskets that are used on compressors depending on what type of compressor that you have. Industrial compressors may have head gaskets, cylinder gaskets, etc, while homeowner compressors may use none at all. These gaskets help create a seal when two items are placed together, such as sealing the cylinder head to the valve plate assembly. Many times these are all combined together in one gasket kit.

Each type of gasket will vary depending on the model and manufacturer of the compressor that you have. One of the best resources that you can find with the correct gasket that you need would be the owners manual of your compressor. Of course, you can always call 1-866-208-2797 with your serial and model number, and we can find the correct part for your compressor.

Vibration pads are pretty self explanatory and simple. These pads are small pieces that are made out of various materials (often cork), which are placed under each foot on the air compressor. They are then screwed into the ground with the air compressor, and helps to reduce the amount of vibration and rattling that occurs. It reduces the amount of contact that the compressor has with the ground, and depending on the surface it will reduce noise and lengthen the compressor"s life.

Your pressure relief valves are the most important pieces of safety equipment in your facility or along your pipelinesystem. There’s no margin for error. Your PRVs need to work — every time. So how do you know when you can get by with a repair, or when it’s time to replace them?

In many cases, regular valve testing and repair isn’t optional. It’s mandatory. But how do you know if it’s time for a replacement? Here are three times you need to think about repairing or replacing your pressure relief valves.

Pressure relief valves are designed to open to relieve pressure in your system and then close again. In a clean environment, they may be able to open and close multiple times with no problems. But, in some cases, when a valve opens, debriscan get into the valve seat, which can prevent the valve from returning to its originalclosed position.

In some locations and industries, regulations govern how long valves are allowed to be in operation before they need to be repaired or replaced. For example, your state inspector may require that your valves be completely disassembled, inspected, repaired, and tested every five years. In extreme cases, such as if a valve is frozen, the local jurisdiction will mandate replacement.

For smaller valves and applications, you can test your valve by lifting the test lever. Note, though, thatyou shouldn’t do this too often, only about once a year.ASME UG136A Section 3 requires valves have at a minimum of 75% operating pressure versus the set pressure of the valve for hand lifting to be performed.

For larger valves and applications, you can send them to us for testing or we can visit your facility and test them online through ourElectronic Valve Testing (EVT) services.

The service and application a valve is used for affects its longevity. A valve used for clean service, such as steam, can last a long time — easily 20 years if it isn’t operated too close to the set point and gets the right preventative maintenance program. On the other hand, a valve that used for acid service, operated too close to the set point, or exposed to dirt or debris in the system will need to be replaced more often — such as every 10 years.

Our technicians are factory-trained to repair and recertify valves back to their OEM specifications. But is that the best course of action? Or should you just replace them?

In general, we recommend repairing your valves when possible to get the most out of your investment. However, sometimes, replacement is simply more cost-effective than repair.

In either case, it will certainly cost less to replace the valve than to pay for any damage you might incur from keeping it in service past its prime!

In general, it’s difficult to impossible to say exactly how long your pressure relief valves will last. It depends on several factors, including the service, the system, and how the valves are operated. The best way to both keep your valves operating correctly and identify when they need to be replaced is to put them on a regular preventative maintenance program, ideally supported by a valve management software like ValvKeep.

At Allied Valve, your safety is our first priority. Our pressure relief valve repair services can keep your valves working at their highest levels of performance.Learn more about what we can do for you.

You may not worry often, if at all, about whether or not your air compressor is running safely. And you really don’t have to, because compressor manufacturers do. From the pressure rating on the air storage tank to emergency stop buttons, air compressors are designed with safety in mind.

But that doesn’t mean you should never think about your compressor’s safety features. In most cases, they need to be inspected regularly to make sure they’re working properly. One key safety feature that should be inspected regularly is the air pressure relief valve (PRV), sometimes called a safety relief valve.

The pressure relief valve is a safety valve that protects the compressor component that it’s attached to from being exposed to a pressure above its rated maximum operating pressure. This rating, called the maximum working pressure (MWP), is the pressure that the vessel has been certified to continuously operate at safely.

So when a compressor is running at or below its maximum working pressure—in other words, when it’s running “normally”—the relief valve doesn’t do anything.

However, when the air pressure inside a compressor exceeds its MWP, the pressure relief valve will activate to “blow off” the excessive pressure within the compressor. Without a relief valve, the storage tank could rupture from the excessive pressure, damaging the compressor itself, possibly other property near it, and even causing injuries (or worse) to anyone standing nearby.

Before we can talk about how the air pressure relief valve works, we first need to look at how air pressure inside a compressor is managed when everything is running normally.

Under normal circumstances, the air pressure in a compressor is controlled by a pressure switch in an electro/mechanical control system or, in the case of an electronic controller, a pressure transducer and controller settings. When the cut-out set pressure for the pressure switch is reached, the compressor will stop compressing air (unload) until the cut-in set pressure is reached, at which time it will start compressing air again (load). If the pressure switch fails, the compressor would not be able to start compressing air again, or potentially worse, not be able to stop. Most compressors also have a high-pressure safety switch that should stop the compressor if the pressure exceeds the unload set point.

A pressure relief valve is a straightforward safety backup to the pressure switch and high-pressure switch, or the controller set points, should any of these components fail with the compressor running. The safety relief valve is set above the high-pressure safety switch and generally at or below the vessel’s maximum operating pressure. Inside the valve is a spring, and the pressure created by the spring’s tension keeps the valve closed under normal operating conditions. However, as the air pressure increases in pressure vessels (like the storage tank), it eventually exceeds the rated pressure of the relief valve, causing the relief valve to open and the excess pressure to be “blown off” to the atmosphere.

If the pressure relief valve fails open, air will continually vent to the atmosphere, preventing the air stream from becoming fully pressurized. The compressor should be shut down and the relief valve replaced before the compressor is restarted. The open relief valve will likely cause a loss of production and possible danger to personnel as a result of the flow of high-pressure air with flying debris and an unsafe sound level.

A pressure relief valve failing closed presents a potentially more dangerous situation. As noted earlier, the relief valve exists to allow excessive pressure to be “blown off” so that the air pressure inside the compressor’s pressure vessels don’t exceed their rated specifications. If the valve fails closed, this pressure venting can’t happen. Unless compressed air demand matches the compressed air supply, the pressure inside the compressor will continue to build. Eventually, the pressure increase would cause the storage tank to rupture, damaging the compressor and possibly causing additional damage and injury to property and people nearby.

If the relief valve is opening because the air pressure in the compressor has exceeded the valve’s pressure set point, that means the valve is working and doing what it was designed to do. But because this indicates the MWP of the compressor has been exceeded, the condition that’s causing excessive pressure should be diagnosed and corrected.

If the relief valve opening wasn’t caused by excessive pressure inside the compressor, then the valve is most likely “failing open”. Most likely, this is because the valve has become “soft” over time, i.e. the valve spring is providing less counterpressure, so it’s opening at a lower pressure than it should.

Whether the valve opened because of excessive pressure in the compressor or because the valve is failing, you should have your local air compressor distributor inspect your compressor before running it again for two reasons:

First, your distributor can determine whether the valve opened due to a failing relief valve or excessive compressors pressure and perform any needed maintenance or service to get your compressor running efficiently and safely again.

Second, regardless of why the pressure relief valve opened, replacing it may be recommended to ensure safe compressor operation, depending on the valve manufacturer. (Replacement is recommended for Sullair compressors.)

Important: Running the compressor after the relief valve has opened, regardless of the reason why it opened, can put both your property at risk of damage and people at risk of injury (or worse). While this may be obvious if the compressor is building up excess pressure, it also applies if the valve failed open. As noted above, even a valve that fails open poses some risk, and next time it could fail closed.

Given how critical a working air pressure relief valve is to the safe and efficient operation of your air compressor, you may wonder whether you need to do any regular inspecting or testing of the valve to make sure it is working. Because this can vary by manufacturer, you should consult your owner’s manual or contact your local air compressor distributor for frequency and type of inspection needed. For most Sullair compressors, inspection for damage or leakage is recommended, but testing is not recommended, as doing so may compromise the valve’s performance.

However, one thing you should do is schedule regular maintenance with your local air compressor distributor. As part of regular maintenance, a service technician can inspect the PRV and let you know it’s at an age or in a condition at which the manufacturer recommends replacement. Also, problems with the compressor’s performance, e.g. not reaching normal operating pressure, may help the service technician identify a failing relief valve after ruling out other possible causes.

When a pressure vessel like a receiver, sump tank or other storage vessel is purchased separately from the compressor, it may not be supplied with a pressure relief valve. To ensure its safe operation, you should add a PRV.

When selecting a PRV to add to the pressure vessel, you must choose a valve with a pressure set point set at or below the maximum working pressure of the vessel. You will find the MWP (and other useful information) on a tag welded to the pressure vessel. Also, flow capacity of the PRV must meet or exceed the total compressed air supplied to the vessel.

For example, if you have two compressors with capacities of 500 and 750 cfm (14.2 and 21.2 m³/min), and a pressure vessel with a maximum working pressure of 200 psi (13.8 bar), the minimum settings for a pressure relief valve would be 1250 cfm (35.4 m³/min) and a set point 200 psi (13.8 bar) or less.

Finally, when attaching the valve to the vessel, the porting must not be reduced to a size less than the size of the inlet port of the pressure relief valve.

Because the pressure relief valve is critical to the safe operation of your compressed air system, if you’re not sure how to select the correct PRV and properly and safely add it to the pressure vessel, contact your local air compressor distributor. They have the experience and expertise to ensure that the PRV is sized and installed correctly.

A little product education can make you look super smart to customers, which usually means more orders for everything you sell. Here’s a few things to keep in mind about safety valves, so your customers will think you’re a genius.

A safety valve is required on anything that has pressure on it. It can be a boiler (high- or low-pressure), a compressor, heat exchanger, economizer, any pressure vessel, deaerator tank, sterilizer, after a reducing valve, etc.

There are four main types of safety valves: conventional, bellows, pilot-operated, and temperature and pressure. For this column, we will deal with conventional valves.

A safety valve is a simple but delicate device. It’s just two pieces of metal squeezed together by a spring. It is passive because it just sits there waiting for system pressure to rise. If everything else in the system works correctly, then the safety valve will never go off.

A safety valve is NOT 100% tight up to the set pressure. This is VERY important. A safety valve functions a little like a tea kettle. As the temperature rises in the kettle, it starts to hiss and spit when the water is almost at a boil. A safety valve functions the same way but with pressure not temperature. The set pressure must be at least 10% above the operating pressure or 5 psig, whichever is greater. So, if a system is operating at 25 psig, then the minimum set pressure of the safety valve would be 30 psig.

Most valve manufacturers prefer a 10 psig differential just so the customer has fewer problems. If a valve is positioned after a reducing valve, find out the max pressure that the equipment downstream can handle. If it can handle 40 psig, then set the valve at 40. If the customer is operating at 100 psig, then 110 would be the minimum. If the max pressure in this case is 150, then set it at 150. The equipment is still protected and they won’t have as many problems with the safety valve.

Here’s another reason the safety valve is set higher than the operating pressure: When it relieves, it needs room to shut off. This is called BLOWDOWN. In a steam and air valve there is at least one if not two adjusting rings to help control blowdown. They are adjusted to shut the valve off when the pressure subsides to 6% below the set pressure. There are variations to 6% but for our purposes it is good enough. So, if you operate a boiler at 100 psig and you set the safety valve at 105, it will probably leak. But if it didn’t, the blowdown would be set at 99, and the valve would never shut off because the operating pressure would be greater than the blowdown.

All safety valves that are on steam or air are required by code to have a test lever. It can be a plain open lever or a completely enclosed packed lever.

Safety valves are sized by flow rate not by pipe size. If a customer wants a 12″ safety valve, ask them the flow rate and the pressure setting. It will probably turn out that they need an 8×10 instead of a 12×16. Safety valves are not like gate valves. If you have a 12″ line, you put in a 12″ gate valve. If safety valves are sized too large, they will not function correctly. They will chatter and beat themselves to death.

Safety valves need to be selected for the worst possible scenario. If you are sizing a pressure reducing station that has 150 psig steam being reduced to 10 psig, you need a safety valve that is rated for 150 psig even though it is set at 15. You can’t put a 15 psig low-pressure boiler valve after the reducing valve because the body of the valve must to be able to handle the 150 psig of steam in case the reducing valve fails.

The seating surface in a safety valve is surprisingly small. In a 3×4 valve, the seating surface is 1/8″ wide and 5″ around. All it takes is one pop with a piece of debris going through and it can leak. Here’s an example: Folgers had a plant in downtown Kansas City that had a 6×8 DISCONTINUED Consolidated 1411Q set at 15 psig. The valve was probably 70 years old. We repaired it, but it leaked when plant maintenance put it back on. It was after a reducing valve, and I asked him if he played with the reducing valve and brought the pressure up to pop the safety valve. He said no, but I didn’t believe him. I told him the valve didn’t leak when it left our shop and to send it back.

If there is a problem with a safety valve, 99% of the time it is not the safety valve or the company that set it. There may be other reasons that the pressure is rising in the system before the safety valve. Some ethanol plants have a problem on starting up their boilers. The valves are set at 150 and they operate at 120 but at startup the pressure gets away from them and there is a spike, which creates enough pressure to cause a leak until things get under control.

If your customer is complaining that the valve is leaking, ask questions before a replacement is sent out. What is the operating pressure below the safety valve? If it is too close to the set pressure then they have to lower their operating pressure or raise the set pressure on the safety valve.

Is the valve installed in a vertical position? If it is on a 45-degree angle, horizontal, or upside down then it needs to be corrected. I have heard of two valves that were upside down in my 47 years. One was on a steam tractor and the other one was on a high-pressure compressor station in the New Mexico desert. He bought a 1/4″ valve set at 5,000 psig. On the outlet side, he left the end cap in the outlet and put a pin hole in it so he could hear if it was leaking or not. He hit the switch and when it got up to 3,500 psig the end cap came flying out like a missile past his nose. I told him to turn that sucker in the right direction and he shouldn’t have any problems. I never heard from him so I guess it worked.

If the set pressure is correct, and the valve is vertical, ask if the outlet piping is supported by something other than the safety valve. If they don’t have pipe hangers or a wall or something to keep the stress off the safety valve, it will leak.

There was a plant in Springfield, Mo. that couldn’t start up because a 2″ valve was leaking on a tank. It was set at 750 psig, and the factory replaced it 5 times. We are not going to replace any valves until certain questions are answered. I was called to solve the problem. The operating pressure was 450 so that wasn’t the problem. It was in a vertical position so we moved on to the piping. You could tell the guy was on his cell phone when I asked if there was any piping on the outlet. He said while looking at the installation that he had a 2″ line coming out into a 2×3 connection going up a story into a 3×4 connection and going up another story. I asked him if there was any support for this mess, and he hung up the phone. He didn’t say thank you, goodbye, or send me a Christmas present.

Today we had a client call us about his air compressor pump not working properly and only holding 60 psi to his plant.   It’s easy to sell someone a new compressor but to find the right machine for their application, our staff asked for a picture of their current system.  From this picture we can evaluate and find a solution.

If the compressor pump has discoloration on the discharge pipe, this could be a result of the compressor pump reaching it’s upper end of it’s duty cycle and maybe it’s time to replace it with a new, larger compressor pump (increase the hp size) or with a new rotary screw air compressor.  Rotary screw air compressors can operate at 100% duty vs a piston pump is rated at 60%.  Piston pumps require a “time out” to cool the oil in between cycles.

If the compressor items are in good condition and the compressor pump is beyond repair, replace the compressor pump only and retrofit a new style on the air tank.  This is a inexpensive solution vs. buying a new air compressor system.

– Keep the Inlet filters clean and replace accordingly.  Pipe the intake filters outside if the compressor pump is near an outside wall.  Make sure you have outdoor filter assemblies to protect the filter element

Remember, your air compressor is the lifeline for your business.  Spending short money on maintenance can eliminate compressor downtime and keep your business in operation.

At factories, industrial air compressor issues are among the costliest problems that can affect a given production. Trouble is, an industrial air compressor leak can be difficult to pinpoint unless you know which parts to inspect on the unit and peripheral devices. In order to run a profitable facility, you must be able to identify and rectify problems like air leaks when they emerge within your compressed air system.

If you are wondering why your air compressor is leaking air, read on to learn the reasons why this happens and the steps you can take to rectify the problem.

Air leaks are a major cause of energy waste and lost pressure in compressed air systems. Leaks can occur in many different areas, making it difficult to pinpoint and diagnose such a problem. The keys are identifying the signs of an air compressor leak and knowing how to rectify the issue. If you know where to look, you could learn how to fix an air leak in an industrial air compressor.

Air leaks occur in the parts of a compressed air system where pressurized air or fluids are contained or transferred from one compartment to another. The two basic leaks can be generalized as follows:

The various parts of a compressor are all susceptible to wear and tear, meaning that your leaking air compressor may be suffering from a variety of different issues. If your compressor is leaking air or oil, it could be due to problems with the tank itself or with faulty or leaky components.

Holes from heavy-duty use or old age can lead to a leaking air compressor. Air leaks can also result from corrosion and rust. When compressed air sits in the tank, water will accumulate. Moisture not properly drained will slowly wear away at the tank, forming pinholes that allow air and water to escape.

Badly rusted or damaged air compressor tanks need to be replaced, as any patching or welding will increase the risk of explosion. Small pinholes can sometimes be repaired, but you must do so quickly — delaying repair will only let them get bigger and prevent your tank from holding air.

The pressure switch measures the pressure inside your tank so it can turn off the compressor once the tank reaches capacity. Over time, the diaphragm inside the pressure switch will crack and form holes, letting air leak out of the tank.

If you notice leaks coming from odd places like mounting elements, you will want to check the pressure switch. Air leaks around an exterior unloader valve may also signal a pressure switch issue.

If your pressure switch is fine, the air leak may be caused by the unloader valve itself. The unloader valve is attached to the pressure switch and serves to close the valve and seal the air in once the pressure reaches its required setting. The rings on this valve can loosen over time, letting air leak out.

You can tell if air is leaking from the unloader valve if you can feel a steady stream of air at the bottom. You may also hear a hissing noise that lasts for more than a few seconds after you turn off your air compressor.

Tubes and hoses are among an air compressor’s more delicate components, so they are prone to wear and tear. If you notice an air leak while your air compressor is running, it may be due to a crack or hole in one of your lines. You can often identify problem areas by feeling the tubes for leaks.

If you have an air compressor oil leak, it might be due to holes within the piston chamber. Oil leaks may also be due to excessive oil in the compressor chamber or the oil filter leaking through the head or the air filter.

When compressor leaks occur, the consequences could either be immediate and obvious or slow and subtle, depending on the source of the problem and the extent of its development. The two most obvious signs of air leaks and oil leaks are, respectively, as follows:

Reduced Air Pressure: If your compressor has an air leak, you will gradually lose air pressure at your end-point applications. If your compressor has gradually become less efficient, the problem could easily be down to a leak in one of the hoses or connecting points.

Lost Compressor Power: If the compressor seems to burn oil more rapidly, yet the usage cycles have not changed, chances are good the unit is no longer holding oil properly. If you recently gave the machine an oil refill and already the compressor is showing symptoms of insufficient oil supply, you probably have an oil leak in the unit.

Learning how to know if an air compressor is leaking is one of the most important aspects of operating an industrial facility. The easiest way to determine the presence of an air leak is to shut off the unit with the compressor on full charge. If this causes the gauge to plummet, that would indicate an air leak. If the compressor self-reactivates as a counter-mechanism, that too would indicate an air leak in the system.

Air hoses: Some of the easiest spots for air leaks to develop are along the hoses that connect an air compressor to various pneumatic tools. One way to search for leaks is to power-off the compressor and unplug its cables, then lather the hoses with hand soap and reactivate the machine. If bubbles form at any spot along one of the hoses, you have found your air leak.

Tubes: Air leaks can also develop along the metal tubes that serve as connecting links in certain compressed air systems. Leaks can form on tubes if the connections are loose on either end, or if rust develops and dulls or cracks the metal. Inspect your air tubes for any such weaknesses.

Connectors: The connecting parts along a compressed air system should always be inspected whenever you suspect an air leak. If one of the connectors is loose, ajar or not properly fitted to a corresponding part, faint drafts could form and hamper the pressurization and air power. Loose connectors often make wheezing noises as air passes through.

O-rings: The rubber ring that serves as a buffer and barrier along the internal circumference of a connecting tool could be the source of an air leak. The problem could be located at either end and possibly in several places if your compressor attaches to multiple tools.

Condensate traps: In an air compressor, loose components adjacent to the pressurization chamber could all be sources of air leaks. The parts where moisture is trapped and separated could easily be sources of leaks, especially if the parts are poorly maintained and failing within the system.

Shut-off valves: The first places to check on an air compressor are the valves, which could easily leak air if they are not fastened tightly with seals and connectors in all the necessary places.

Drains: Any parts from which water is drained should be inspected on a periodic basis. If gunk or corrosion forms around these areas, this would indicate that the health of your compressor is declining, possibly due to poor upkeep.

Pneumatic tools: The connecting points on your air tools could easily leak air if they are not fastened properly. Each pneumatic tool should be tightly fitted with snug and secure connectors.

If you have an oil leak, the likeliest sources are the pistons and the oil gasket. Check these parts on a periodic basis, including each time you refill the oil in your air compressor.

Provided the leak has not extended too far or covered too many points in the system, tightening connections and replacing parts are the most straightforward ways to fix an air compressor leak. Tightening connections and internal fasteners can provide short-term solutions, while replacing and repairing parts can be a wise investment to ensure you benefit from the full service life of your equipment.

Replace hoses and tubes: If you isolate a leak along one of your tubes or hoses, remove the affected part and trade it for a newer, stronger, properly fitted replacement. To improve your system’s performance from here, try to shorten the distance between the compressor and any pneumatic tools attached to the unit.

Tighten the connectors: All connecting points across your compressed air system should be inspected for leaks on a regular basis and tightened if necessary. If a connection is ill-fitted or improperly fastened, refasten the parts or replace the connectors if needed. If possible, reduce the number of connecting points between the compressor and your end-point tools.

Replace the valve seals: Valves are vulnerable spots for air leaks on an air compressor. Inspect the outlet valves on your machine to ensure all outgoing pressurized air is contained along streams that lead to pneumatic tools and machines. Replace any seals that appear worn or defective.

Replace the O-rings: The parts that enforce various connecting points along your air system could weaken as time goes on. Rubber O-rings become vulnerable as pressure and temperatures take effect. If the O-rings in your system are old, trade them out for fresh replacements.

Replace the condensate drain: In an air compressor, the water tray is there to hold the very thing you do not want passing through the system. However, the draining component can only do its job as long as it remains in good shape, free of mold or wear. Replace this part if it no longer performs as intended.

Tighten lose internal fasteners: The parts inside the motor of your air compressor could destabilize your system if the screws become loose and unhinged. Inspect the fasteners inside your air compressor and tighten any parts that appear shaky, loose, unstable or rusted.

Replace the piston seals: If you are dealing with an oil leak in the pistons, replace the seals. Oil can get into pistons and rotors and corrupt the quality of incoming air.

Replace the oil gasket: If the gasket gets worn or damaged, replace it with a new gasket that matches the measurements required for your air compressor.

The preceding steps should be relatively easy to perform, especially if you have done maintenance on your compressor in the past and know the various internal and external parts. If none of these measures do the trick, it probably means you have a more serious matter on your hands that can only be fixed by a service professional.

When you reduce air compressor downtime, you gain a whole host of benefits that can extend the service life of your air system and make your factory more profitable on multiple fronts.

Reduced downtime: By eliminating air compressor leaks, you could prevent larger problems that could lead to system downtime. This can be a boon for your productivity and profits, as downtime is one of the most time-consuming and costly problems that can occur in a factory. Otherwise, downtime incidents could result in thousands of dollars in losses, even if the problem only lasts for a few hours.

Consistent operations: If your air compressor behaves reliably with no air leaks, you can generally count on consistent performance from the machines. In an industrial setup, one of the most important things to have is a system that performs consistently, without fail, on a nonstop basis, allowing you to focus on other facility operations.

Maximized efficiency: One you eliminate leaks from your air compressor, your pneumatic applications will benefit from maximized efficiency. Applications that once took minutes could now take seconds, thanks to the improved air pressure and power. You could end up producing more in the span of a day with less consumption of energy.

Predictable processes: A consistent, leak-free air system can help make work processes more predictable, which is an asset if you run a daily operation that relies on continuous quality.

Money saved: The boosted productivity and efficiency of a leak-free air system will translate to money savings at your facility. Without leaks, your equipment will be less prone to the kind of problems that could lead to costly repairs. As you produce more products, your factory will make more money. Overall, a leak-free compressor is more profitable on both ends.

Energy efficiency: After you eliminate leaks in your air compressor and tools, your factory will need less energy to operate because your air system will not strain itself while performing basic functions. As such, your factory could save significant sums of money on electricity costs.

In order to run a productive and profitable industrial facility, you must keep your air compressors working efficiently at all times. To that end, any air leaks that occur must be identified and fixed before such problems spiral out of hand. In certain cases, a leak can be patched with some DIY work. In other cases, you must get professional help to save your equipment from developing even costlier issues down the line.

At The Titus Company, our team specializes in air compressor repairs for industrial companies. Contact us today to learn more about our air compressors or to request information about our air compressor repair services.