breville safety valve factory

Hello Scott, Thank you for the question. According to the Website Availability, this is a Special Order part. This means we do not keep them in stock and order them in from Breville once we have an order for one. As long as Breville has stock ready to ship, this takes about 10-15 Business Days for the part to arrive at the Warehouse and approximately 3-7 business days to ship out and arrive to you. We hope this helps!

Breville Espresso machine was leaking water from the inside which not only made the machine unusable but also was shorting out internal contacts that would cause the house breaker to trip. (In my res

Look up internet videos on how to access the internal workings of the machine. The "safety valve" is plastic and screws onto the water pump. Mine broke off at the threaded connection (maybe due to vibration of the pump) and allowed the pump to spray water all over the internal workings. Replacing the safety vale was a simple matter of removing the water pump and unscrewing the broken threaded end of the old valve - the broken end was still screwed into the water pump but use of a Philips screwdriver as a makeshift "easy-out" got it right out. When installing the new safety valve, don"t forget the clear rubber washer that goes between the pump and the valve. Put everything back together and you"re in business. There is a separate video on the web about removing and installing the water pump. The same type and brand of water pump is used in a majority of these espresso machines and these things have a tendency to wear out in time. They are readily available and not expensive. I took the opportunity to replace mine while I was inside the machine.

The Breville Barista Express 860xl is a nice little semi-automatic espresso machine that I bought about 5 years ago for $450 (probably because the 870 was about to come out).

However, there’s definitely a little repair community around espresso machines generally and higher end Brevilles in particular. Some parts are also available though not all.

After opening the case, I could clearly see whitish deposits around the leak area where water had evaporated/boiled off. It seemed likely to me that the rubber o-ring had failed (see picture at end of post). Unfortunately, that o-ring is not available for purchase, so I took a leap and bought some o-rings proposed as suitable replacements for another Breville model. They ended up being the wrong size, and I so I bought a part that included the o-ring. I measured the o-ring and made some measurements below that may help others buy the right size o-ring from Grainger.

The real trick in this is to take a lot of photos and take your time. The over pressure valve (OPV) screws off without removing other components if you first remove the stem and loosen the rubber mount plate. This means cutting a zip tie; I found HyperTough zip ties from Walmart to have suitable mechanical properties for this connection (6/6 Nylon and reasonably high temp; see picture). However, the stem tightness regulates max pressure, so you either want to image the threads before removing or count the number of turns as you take off. Another gotcha is that the plastic white washer at the base of the OPV is directional, so you may want to mark it to ensure it goes back in with the same direction. Finally, I had to reopen and retighten the OPV as it screwed into the base because I didn’t tighten enough the first time. Pictures of some key steps are below.

Relatively easy fix - allow approx 1 hour. Remove top and back covers of machine by removing fastening screws, loosen white box at lhs rear to allow access to pump, remove pump holding screws, remove inlet-outlet tubes at base of pump and at top of pump, undo electrical press connections, remove pump, install new pump and reconnect all tubes and electrical connections tighten hold down screws remove solenoid valve from top of machine by loosening 4 hold down screws remove rubber gasket at base of solenoid valve (take care to remove the 4 small washers and 2 small flow tubes) remove any build up of crust or residual rubber with scraper andor scourer pad make sure the inletoutlet holes are not blocked with grit install new solenoid valve gasket with new washers and new flow tubes install new solenoid valve and secure with 4 screws add the flow tube. Install the covers to the machine and job done.

Good job! FYI. That"s not a steam safety valve. It is and OPV. Over pressure valve. Each pump, steam boiler fill and coffee boiler fill, has an OPV on it. There is a spring and a ball in it. When the water pressure hits the set pressure, the valve opens and lets the excess pressure water back into the tank. You can adjust the pressure it releases by taking the collar with the clips off, and screwing the relief port in or out. Enthusiasts adjust the OPV on their coffee boiler pump. Most leave the one on the steam pump at The factory setting. In a sense it is a safety valve but more of a steam pump fill safety valve.

There is a legit over pressure relief valve on the top of the steam boiler that vents to the drip tray in the event that the steam boiler heaters go berserk and over heat and over pressurize the steam boiler. It is in the center top of the steam boiler and has a fat clear tube coming out of it. This valve can cause problems with certain machines (it can get stuck open) but I have never heard of a problem with it on the BDB. You may see condensation in the tube that comes off this valve. Don"t worry. It is a combined pressure relief valve and vacuum breaker valve. The condensation comes from it doing it"s job as a vacuum breaker. Perfectly normal.

The safety bypass valve, or OPV valve, is it plastic valve that sits on top of the main coffee pump. And steam pumps. The function of the coffee safety valves is not so much safety, but rather to regulate the pressure within the hydraulic system.We will concern ourselves with the function of the coffee bypass valve here. As this valve has an important function in maintaining system pressure within the coffee hydraulic line. Obviously with coffee extraction, pressure is a vital ingredient. You will notice the safety valve has a piece of mesh hose which runs from the valve back into the water tank. As the name suggests the valve bypasses some of the water flow in order to limit the pressure within the hydraulic system.

For example when you make a cup of coffee, the ulka pump will deliver about 15 bars of pressure, thus the bypass valve will divert some water flow into the tank during extraction which results in lower pressure. A small spring-loaded ball valve allows some water to divert when the pressure is high. Obviously this ball valve is only activated when the flow is impeded by coffee grounds or the cleaning disc.

I always replace the OPV valve on the coffee pump when I replace the pump. I do this because these valves have a reputation for being useless. They are only plastic, the tension on the spring is adjusted with a small plastic thread. They are not precise.

The Ulka pump we supply has a brass stem and internally brass bypass. This is the model E, type EX5. I use this model as I believe it has a longer life van the plastic version of the Ulka pump. However it leaves us with a slight challenge in that we must attach the plastic 0PV valve to the brass stem of the pump. The obvious danger here is that we can snap off the plastic OPV valve in the brass stem. So we need to be careful. And are use thread tape and Loctite. See the description below.

I am briefly going to explain how I attach the nylon/plastic? bypass safety valve to my preferred Ulka pump, with the brass stem. I’m explaining this because as I said above I believe the model E type EX5 Ulka pump is superior to the plastic factory fitted variety. So I only stock this pump. And I am being told it’s impossible or poor etiquette to attach plastic to brass.

But I persist as I am certain that the brass stem Ulka pump is superior to the plastic one. This is the subject of another post, but it’s suffice to say I’m happy paying the additional few euro for the better quality pump and there are no issues using them in Breville coffee machines.

If water is leaking from your safety valve, either before or during a brewing cycle, something is not quite right and it will need to be resolved before your machine is able to produce coffee again. The leak from the safety valve could be coming from one of three places:

If the leak is coming from the gold coloured safety ring, you simply need to replace it. Further details on how to do that, as well as how to prevent it happening again, can be found here. You will have received a spare safety ring with your machine.

If water is leaking from the head of the safety valve, it’s likely that the internal seal has become dislodged and damaged. Though this is a rare event, in this case the safety valve will need to be replaced. You can purchase a replacement safety valve here, and there are instructions showing how to replace the safety valve here.

A leak from this point suggests one of two things. The first is that the safety valve isn’t screwed on tight enough. Screw it in hand tight, then use a 13mm spanner to tighten it so that there is ‘metal on metal’ contact between the boiler and the safety ring. You won’t need to tighten it very hard, the thing to feel for is a sudden increase in resistance when screwing it in.

The second thing to check is whether the two red o-rings on either side of the safety ring are in good condition. Simply check that they’re well-seated either side of the safety ring and that they are clean and free of damage. Then screw the valve back onto the boiler. These o-rings form the seal between the safety valve and the boiler, so if they’re not in place the safety valve will leak. If you need some replacement seals, you can buy those here.

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