gas oven safety valve leaking made in china

When our field technicians go out to homes to investigate gas leaks, check appliances, and respond to other routine service calls, the most common problem they come across is old, leaking or improperly installed valves and connectors.

In many cases in the past, our technicians had to turn off gas to the appliance and potentially the entire house for safety reasons, pending repairs by the homeowner. This posed a significant inconvenience for residents, as not only did they lose gas service (for heating and cooking, etc.), they must find a qualified plumber to fix the unsafe condition. After the repair was made, it could require another visit by one of our technicians to restore service.

The Parts Replacement Program is borne out of our company’s commitment to continually improve customer satisfaction by providing residents a one-stop shop to meet their utility needs, and to quickly address any potential customer safety issues on the spot.

Consult Fig. 1, shown in 2, gas safety valve of the present utility model, be by a body 1 be provided with one have screw section 110 the seat hole 10, be provided with the first passage 11 of different inner diameters in the body 1, second channel 12 and third channel 13, third channel 13 is an inlet end, first passage 11 is the outlet side, the internal diameter of first passage 11 is slightly less than second channel 12, first passage 11 1 ends communicate with second channel 12, first passage 11 is formed with a little blocked part 14 with second channel 12 connecting parts, the internal diameter of second channel 12 is slightly less than third channel 13, second channel 12 and third channel 13 1 ends communicate, second channel 12 and third channel 13 connecting parts are formed with a big blocked part 15, when gas safety valve of the present utility model is incorporated into the air outlet end of gas regulator, first passage 11 the other ends communicate with stove and accessory, third channel 13 the other ends communicate with the air outlet of gas regulator, when gas safety valve of the present utility model is incorporated into the suction port end of gas regulator, first passage 11 the other ends communicate with the suction port end of gas regulator, third channel 13 the other ends communicate with the air outlet in gas supply source, therefore, the gas supplied of gas supply source can follow third channel 13, second channel 12 and first passage 11 are to stove and accessory.The screw section 110 in seat hole 10 screws togather for the external thread part 20 of a base 2 bottoms, base 2 and body 1 are combined into one, it is little narrow hole 21 than base 2 internal diameters that appropriate locations in the base 2 are provided with one, these 21 belows, narrow hole are fixed with a leakproof cushion rubber 23, the internal diameter of leakproof cushion rubber 23 is identical with the external diameter of buffer bar 22, when narrow hole 21 and leakproof cushion rubber 23 penetrates for a buffer bar 22 and when up and down, can keep airtight and effect leakproof; But for make buffer bar 22 be subjected to outer defeat press fall after returning position, this buffer bar 22 has penetrated a buffer spring 25, buffer spring 25 1 ends be resisted against buffer bar 22 upper ends by cap head 24, the other end is resisted against the side ancient piece of jade, round, flat and with a hole in its centre of 21 tops, narrow hole.Second channel 12 can be put for a spring 3 that is preset with certain elastic force constant, one end of this spring 3 is resisted against little blocked part 14, and the other end penetrates the leakage barriers 4 that places big blocked part 15, and leakage barriers 4 can be cushion rubber, when it is adjacent to for safe ball 5, can produce airtight effect; One safe ball 5 is arranged in the third channel 13, and therefore the diameter of this safe ball 5, when safe ball is adjacent to leakage barriers 4, can produce the effect of leakproof greater than the internal diameter of leakage barriers 4; Again, appropriate location is fixed with a limiting component 6 and can prevents that safe ball 5 from rolling out outside the third channel 13 in the third channel 13.

Consult shown in Figure 3 again, it is the sectional drawing of the utility model gas overpressure flow, when Gas cooker and 1 of body have a large amount of gas leakage of generation, safe ball 5 both sides produce big pressure difference, make safe ball 5 pressuring springs 3 and be adjacent to leakage barriers 41 obstruction gas channels, also do not have possibility even reveal slightly, thereby reach anti-effect of letting out.

Consult shown in Figure 4ly again,, press the voltage-controlled of cap head 24, make 22 times general who has surrendered"s safe balls 5 of buffer bar push away leakage barriers 4, passage is normally circulated for gas by buffer bar 22 upper ends when the gas leakage situation is enhanced.

By above-mentioned structure, when can understanding the utility model really can be the time, in the mat pressure difference pressuring spring 3 retraction second channels 12 at the gas overpressure flow, make safe ball 5 be adjacent to leakage barriers 4, the total blockage gas channel does not also have possiblely even reveal slightly, thereby reaches anti-effect of letting out.Therefore, stove and accessory was used in combination in the utility model was paid rent, and did not promptly have the misgivings on the safety, and is as safe as a house.

Moreover because spring 3 of the present utility model is one to have suitable elastic force constant, but the pushing tow safe ball leaves gas channel, therefore, when opened at every turn in the gas supply source, safe ball was subjected to the pushing tow of spring, gas channel can not sealed, effectively solve above-mentioned disappearance, very desirable.

A60 safety valve is adopted in the European type range. The flameout protection device uses the principle of magnetic attraction of the solenoid valve to ensure that the gas is automatically closed when the flame goes out unexpectedly. Widely used in Europe, Australia, Middle East, Southeast Asia and China market.

A variety of installation ways, the application is more flexibleWe can adjust and tailor-made the specifications according to the structure and functions of the cooker manufacturer. A60 safety valve has a variety of installation methods, including SPIGOT, SADDLE MOUNT, U MOUNT and FLANGE.

The A60 safety valve with CSA, CE and Australian certification meets the highest standards of air tightness, durability and working pressure and temperature in the commercial appliances industry. Cooker"s manufacturers can sell the same model to multiple markets for saving development and design costs.

The body of clamping design of on-off valve A18-X1X can be assembled with a general wrench, which is fast and convenient for assembly. Stainless steel flexible tube are produced from CSA certified raw materials with durable and reliable quality.

Manifolds and gas valves pre-assembly service to save the assembly cost of cooker"s manufacturers and increasing their production capacity. All of Alpha Brass Control"s products are high accurate and 100% air-tight tested.

My deep fryer is a liberty 115000btu propane unit and after using it for about half an hour at 375degrees it quits.. I wonder if I need a new thermocouple? I press the red reset high limit button then turn the gas valve off and wait 2 or 3minutes relight the pilot it comes on turn it to gas on the knob and then I turn the thermostat to 350 or so and nothing happens… Could the high limit be faulty ??? Do I have to wait longer? Will the fryer work without the high limit control??

I have a pitco deep Gas fryer which was running fine but, unfortunately, yesterday my staff started main burners without refilling oil in the tank. Today, we tried to turn it on but its pilot does not stay lit. As soon as we leave the knob, pilots turns off.Please advise?

I too have an gas Imperial fryer that the front area is getting hot. Looking underneath I can see how some of the flame is coming forward of the fire chamber. Is there adjustments, maintenance or blockage in heating tubes? Suggestions?

A TECH HINT ABOUT AIRFLOW: To make a nice, blue flame, you need 10x the volume of air as there is the fuel gas (natural or LP). On any gas appliance, air is drawn throughthe front to mix with the fuel, is burned and exhausts out the back and up. If the flames are coming forward, then the path for the flame and exhaust gases is blocked.

Sounds like a gas flow issue. Something could be clogged too, like the pilot orifice. At the same time, when turning on gas equipment this does naturally happen to a small extent, so without much more info it is vague to diagnose. If you have more questions, feel free to give us a call at 888-388-6372 or contact us at https://www.etundra.com/about/contact-us/.

I have an Imperial ifs50 recently replaced hi limit now 3 weeks later the pilot stays lit and the burners just slightly f licker ( like just a little gas is coming trouugh) I have a replacement thermostat i temporary wired it in and it still wont light the burners. Possibly the Valve???

Your problem is most likely your combination safety valve. Also make sure you check your burner orifices as well for any obstructions. Click the link at the top of this post to order a new combo safety valve with same day shipping.

You need to go through a process of elimination to determine why the pilot light will not stay lit. You need to test the hi limit, the thermopile, and the combination safety valve to find the culprit. Follow the instructions in the post above starting with “1. If the pilot will not stay lit:”

Get a multimeter and test at the points where the thermopile connect to the combination gas valve. If millivoltage levels are around 200 or lower its not enough to engage the burner valve. You really should have 450 millivolts or more. If millivolts are low, check the pilot flame for proper impingement around the top of the thermopile. Most Combination gas valves have a pilot adjustment screw which may be loosened to increase gas flow. Remove the top screw where it says “pilot adjustment” and get a smaller flat head screwdriver to loosen the screw inside. If that doesn’t help, check for debris in the pilot head. Also, check the vent at the appliance regulator on the combination gas valve for debris / oil clogs. Clearing the clogs usually alleviates pressure problems.

If the “reset switch” you’re referring to is the high limit reset, you likely need a new thermostat. Test oil temperature with a probe to ensure the burners are not overheating the fryer oil. The high limit is designed to cut off gas supply if the temperature exceeds 450 degrees (and that’s a good thing!). If its shutting itself off due to too-high temperatures, you definitely need a new thermostat. If the temperatures are fine and millivoltage levels are good from the thermopile, the problem is likely a failing high limit.

I have a pitco deep Gas fryer which was running fine but, unfortunately, yesterday my staff started main burner without refilling oil in the tank. Today, we tried to turn it on but its pilot does not stay lit. As soon as we leave the knob, pilot turns off. Please advise?

HELLO I HAVE A PICTO EF3 DEEP FRYER, THE PILOT STAYS LIT BUT WHEN I ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT NOTHING HAPPENS, IM GUESSING THE HIGH LIMIT IS FINE BECAUSE THE PILOT STAYS LIT, I TRIED TO JUMP PAST THE THERMOSTAT AND SEE IF IT WOULD LIGHT BUT THAT DIDNT WORK EITHER. IM NOT SURE IF THAT IS POSIBLE ANYWAY I THINK IT IS BUT NOT SURE. AT FIRST THE FRYER WOULD TAKE FOREVER TO GET GOING BUT NOW WONT DO ANYTHING. AND IM TORN BETWEEN THE THERMOSTAT THERMOPILE AND GAS VALVE IS THERE ANY MORE TESTS I CAN DO TO FIGURE OUT WHICH ONE IS BAD? THANKS

The best thing for you to do would be to start with replacing the thermostat. However, the safety valve may also be bad. If you replace the thermostat and that doesn’t do the trick, you’ll have to replace that.

Sir, the problem is a lazy solenoid or magneto. Its the component that the thermopile screws into it normaly has a large nut or hex head to it. Turn off the gas remove the thermopile unscrew the the magneto and replace it.

Glad we could help! On the leaking problem, it sounds like the stainless steel portion of the tank is slowly cracking due to metal fatigue (from constant heating and cooling). The problem with fryer tanks once they begin to leak is that the extreme temperatures involved make it almost impossible to patch a hole once it starts. This is because the metal expands and contracts so much.

You might have damaged the electronic thermostat. Turn the pilot knob off. On the top of the thermostat there is 2 wires. Take one off and put it on the other connection so they are both on the same side. Now when you light the unit and turn the knob from pilot to on the burners should fire right away and stay on. If it runs for 2 minutes without doing the problem you described then your thermostat is bad. If it still does the problem then your Combination safety valve is bad. Be sure not to try to run the unit in this way, because it’s now running without a thermostat.

Hi, I have 2 Imperial Friers, model IFS-40. One of it is broken. I saw the pilot light is weak. Before, everytime I turn it on, I have to use a knife or scew driver to knock the Combination Valve, then it works. However, after it takes breaktime, then I have to knock Combination Valve again, so it works again. Do you know which part is broken? I saw the above article, none of the above applies for my situation. Thanks!

You need to replace the combination safety valve. There’s a small plunger in the combination safety valve that is pushed open to allow gas to flow and shuts when gas is turned off. Over time that plunger wears out and starts sticking – yours is knocked loose every time you tap it. Luckily, replacing the combo valve is fairly easy! Just remember to turn the gas off first!!!!

I have a dean deep fryer the pilot won’t stay lit I replaced the high limit switch & the gas valve I tried the thermopile from my other fryer still won’t stay lit what else could it be Thanks Randy

Hmmm good question Randy. I would double check that you installed the gas valve in the correct direction, double check that the thermopile you’re using is functional, and double check the installation on the hi-limit. If those things check out, then I would call a service tech.

I had the sam eproblem with carbon biulding up on a pitco fryer, you need to adjust your gas line pressure and this will stop the problem. I had my pressure really low and once I adjusted never had a problem again.

Hi, i have deep-fry, the pilot stays lit but the burners just slightly like obstruction some where or not enough gas goes through. Today, i opened all the pipes and ortifires clean-up and replace new combination saferty gas valve, reconnect all pipes and the wires same position as old one. Now, pilot stay lit, but the burner not light at all. Any help would be great. Thanks

I own 2 Frymaster GF14ST deep fryers. Recently I replaced on both the gas valves, the thermopiles, and the hi-limit switches. Both worked well for a while. Now one has a problem: thermostat set to around 375 degrees, when it reaches that temp. pilot goes out. When oil temp. drops, I re-light the pilot, temp. goes back up, then at 375 its goes out again. I do a lot of potatoes, am having to re-light after every order. Plz help.

If the valve is wide open you can light the pilot and as soon as you do the burners will light but as soon as you turn on the thermostat everything shuts down because it has actually cut the power (millivolts) to the valve.

I would start at the top of this article with the hi limit. If that doesn’t work move on to the thermopile and then the combo safety valve and the thermostat.

I think you need to completely convert your fryer. There are some other pieces that need converting besides your orifices. Check out this article on converting gas equipment for more info.

I have a pitco 35c lp fryer. It fires up fine but when it reaches tempurature and shut down the nozzles? that release the gas to the fryer tubes light up with a little flame. Then when it reignites to heat the grease back to operating temp, it makes a roaring sound. If i blow out the little flames between reigniting, it works fine, until the next cycle. Then the flames light and it roars again. Is it the safety valve or the thermstat?

Sounds like the combination safety valve is not closing all the way and allowing gas to fill the manifold thus the little flame. Not a good idea to blow them out because then you’re getting a gas build up that could explode when it does fire off again i.e. the roar you hear.

I have an old DCS fryer that is puzzling me. It has three burners. The middle and RH burners fire up. The LH burner does not. I have cleaned the burners, orifices and manifold. Gas pressure is good. The tubes and flues are clean. I noticed it does not have ceramics or targets in the tubes. I don’t know if DCS used these – I can’t find a manual. I’m stumped.

Hi It is Rob Arbogast with the Pitco 35. I received the new safety valve. When replacing the old one, I discovered that an insect had made a nest at the gas intake side of the valve while the fryer was in storage. There was a screen there so none of the nest got into the valve. I replaced the old valve and the little flames on the three orafices reignited again. I then replaced it with the new valve. The little flames were still there. The roaring sound of early gas ignition stopped after a second but when the desired temp was reached and the gas cut off, the little flames reappeared. When I turned the thermostat off,with the little flames blown out by me, I was able to relight them with a lighter. I don’t think it is the safety valve, as both the new and the old seem to work the same way, Letting the gas at the orifices get the little flame when cycled off. The gas is still getting by the valve somehow, Please help. Thanks,Rob

There are two possibilities. The thermostat may not be closing all the way allowing gas to leak by or it either has too little or to much gas pressure. Too much pressure will hold open the solenoid causing the gas to leak out, too little would not have enough pressure to keep it closed. You’ll have to have a service person check the gas pressure to set it properly. It should be running between 8 and 10 inches of water column.

Do you have the correct safety valve for that unit? You’re bypassing gas somehow, and may need to consult with Pitco directly to help them walk you through the issue. Check out their site for service videos and contact info: http://www.pitco.com/.

I had recently come across an unusual problem with a 13 year old gas fryer. The pot is leaking grease it appears to originate from the front end seam welds. The collection of burnt grease is flaking from the inner sides of this imperial 105000 btu 40 lb fryer. My question is simple what is a sound solution for the leaks on the pot.Would a through cleaning and stick welding the weak spots be a suitable solution or is it junk?

If it was propane from the factory then check to see if there is a blockage in the flue. This often happens over the years because nobody ever thinks to clean out the flue. The only other thing it could be is too much gas pressure.

I was working on a pitco fryer. I guess the model number is 400+ss. I had a problem with the pilot. I fixed it by cleaning the thermocouple. Other problem is that as soon as I turn the thermostat, the pilot quit. I checked high limit. It is ok. I am not %100 sure but I believe the thermostat also ok. I concern about safety valve. So what you guys think about.

I haven’t heard of nor can I find a model 400+ss. But thats ok. I would recommend you change the thermopile because even though you cleaned it it still may not be putting out the proper millivolts. Because when the thermostat is turned on it drops the flame size on the pilot when the burner goes to kick on. OR the combination safety valve is bad or the thermostat is bad – but only if it is a GS type thermostat. If it is a millivolt thermostat then it would be the combination safety that is defective. I would recommend you change out the thermopile first.

Hi, I was wondering if you could confirm two troubleshooting issues and potential fixes for me. The first one is a Wolf Fryer (Model# FS-WTF-42-S). The pilot works but as soon as I turn the knob to the ON position, the burner fires up and the thermostat basically has no effect at all. My suspicion is that there is either too much gas pressure, it’s LPG but I don’t have a pressure gauge to confirm it’s in the 9-11″ range, or the gas regulator valve is bad and needs to be replaced. Am I on the right track?

Hi I have a fryer that was just cleaned and now after a few good days. The flames or yellow and the flames tool out and burn at orifices. Shut off thermostat and it continues to burn. Took fryer burners out and cleaned again had alot of really light black stuff in them. Put back together and worked fine for over a month. Now flames back to orifices again and thermostat will not shut off had to turn off at gas valve. It’s a three burner natural gas fryer old no name but looks like a frymaster

My question is this. When you cleaned it was it disconnected from the gas line? It is possible that if it were water got into the gas line on the unit which means it got into the combination safety valve. Any amount of water can cause corrosion in side the valve causing it not to close all the way thus gas leaking by. This would explain the burning back to the orifices, and actually is burning into the manifold thus causing the soot problem. The flames blowing back when it comes on is probably from gas leaking into the chamber causing a gas build up thus boom.

Hi, we’ve recently bought a catering trailer with an AJC fryer. We were told its working but when we try it nothing happens. The gas doesn’t appear to be getting to the fryer but is coming from the supply pipe ok when its disconnected from the fryer. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

Can you light the pilot and does it stay on? If it does not stay on then it may have a bad thermopile or the safety may be defective. The type of safety will determine if the thermopile can be replaced or if you have to replace the interior safety.

The other question. Could be if your flue thingy has a blockage it is causing a gas build up in the burner chamber and causing small explosions. Dangerous? Could be!

Sounds to me like the combination safety is bad if the pilot stays lit it is not usually the thermopile. It sounds like the the thermopile is generating the correct millivolts otherwise the pilot would not stay lit.

We have a Volcan fryer that we use to fry fish for church groups and fundraisers etc. We replaced the thermostat, gas valve and thermocouple last year. Now it won’t heat up over 300 degrees. The fryer shuts off but the pilot stays lite. How can we fix this problem? We need higher temperature.

Hi everyone: I have a frymaster deep fryer….70’s era…..it was converted from natural gas to propane…but they didnt change the pilot assembly for propane…..when it ignites the propane it is violent…..I think because the propane is heavier than air and fills up more inside the compartment before it ignites the propane……the flame goes straight up about 4 inches or so…………where can I get the correct pilot assembly? thanks Paul………..

I have a Nat gas American Range AF25/25 dual well fryer. One side works fine but the other side has a problem. In order to light the pilot I have to let the thermopile heat up for as long as 5 minutes. I have replaced the thermopile. For the pilot to stay lit I have to set the pilot flame level a bit higher which sends orange flames out of the exhaust during operation. I’m not using the bad side for safety but I’d really like to get it back up and running properly. Any ideas?

It sounds like the combination safety valve is bad. The coil inside of it is probably weak and increasing the pilot flame is generating a little more milivolts to open the valve. I would recommend changing out the combo safety valve.

hi all ive got an lpg PITCO GAS FRYER 35C and ever since owning it ,it has left black soot around the burners and floor area also very orange flame with no roar as its ignited the only way i can sort of hold it back is by sandblasting the manifold every 3 months to clean out the holes ok thats fine but A is that a normal thing B yes its been gas checked C does anyone else suffer D im a mobile caterer and only have my fryers on for a couple hors at a time … ive spoken to pitco and they said sorry no help ive just changed gas suppliers to calor i was using flo gas thats helped a bit any clues PLEEEEEEAAAASSSSSSSEEEEE thanks in desperation gary

Cannot light the pilot. No, it will not light AT ALL. Gas is flowing from the tank but seems to not release through the pilot tubing to the pilot. There is no hint of gas flowing through to the pilot. I am thinking it could be a pressure issue and will be checking that tomorrow. This is a brand new Fryer that has never been used.

Although this is a new fryer the orifice may be blocked (I have seen this happen before). I would disconnect the pilot tube from the pilot assy and press the pilot start button to see if you are getting gas through the tube itself. If you do then they need to take the pilot orifice out of the pilot assy and make sure there is no blockage.

Go ahead and replace your thermopile. It sounds like the one you have is weak and that’s what causing all your problems. If that doesn’t work you’re going to have to replace the combination safety valve, but the thermopile should do the trick.

Sounds like the combination safety valve is not opening. It could be stuck shut or the valve coil may be burnt out. Also if it is not wired right the pilot will stay lit but it will not energize the main valve coil. Call me at 1-800-447-4941 ext. 7104 if you need a wiring diagram.

Hello I have a dean fryer purchased about one month ago was working great now can’t get the gas pilot light to light does this unit have some sort of battery that I need to look for if not just where does it get it’s voltage from 1.7 volts it’s a propane fryer model # SR142GP

have an imperial natural gas fryer. has worked fine for two months, now pilot stays lit but main burner flames go out after about 2 hours. won’t come back on until next morning. can come in and turn it on works fine for about 2 hours again then burners out and pilot is on. any suggestions? thanks

Sounds to me as though you have defective regulator. It has shut down partially not allowing the proper flow. If you have the standard regulator on it you can replace it with 1/2″ LP Gas Regulator or a 3/4″ LP Gas Regulator.

The reason I ask is because the wrong orifices may have been put in it. If the orifice is to large it will allow to much gas to flow through causing a yellow flame which causes the sooting problem.

Hi. I have a Pitco 14DIS drop in fryer. The piolt wont stay lit at all. I have already changed the tjermopile, Safety valve and the pilot( because we broke the head off). I have also jumped out the Hi-limit and it still wont go on. Any ideas?

I just purchase a used Imperial SF40 fryer. The Pilot knob is stuck in Pilot and does not turn in any way. Is there a way to clean this or fix it? or my only solution is to buy a new combination valve?

Unfortunately there is no way to repair it. So you are right your only solution is to replace it. If it is natural gas click here and if it is LP click here.

It could either be the combination safety valve or the thermostat. If it is a millivolt system to check the thermostat remove the wires from it and touch them together. If the burner fires then you know it is the thermostat that is bad. If it does not fire then it is more than likely the combination safety valve that is bad.

Now, pilot works well and thermostat some times works, some times not, for example, if temperature is setup 360F, after cooling down, the fryer fails to heat again some times.And there is a little oil leak from valve( I guess).

hi i have a 4 burnner pitco fryer,, its worked on propane gas,,, i have 3/4 inch gas piped in to it,,,,, my problem is when i put on gas main flame for first 4-5 seconds i have a great blue flame after this it looks like it drops power and the flame turns to an orange clour,,, hence the recovery on the oil is not as quick this way,,, and can have an effect on the quailty of the food,,, can you help…..

Hey, Thanks for all your help but I have one more question. I have noticed a shuttering sound when my Comm, LP gas fryer comes on and noticed flame just above the orifice at the burner air intake on two of the three burners. I have cleaned the burners and the baffels and my orifice’s are clean the only thing left is the gas valve. I have a nanometer on the gas manafold going to the burners that was reading 7.0 I re-adjusted the gas valve down to 4.0 and the shuttering stopped. what should the inches of water column be on the manafold comming out of the gas valve? have we fixed it?

i have Pitco commercial fryer. that is not working so well. i had change the thermopile, but still not fixed the problem………. i started everything fine, it get light up and gas is burning, oil got warmer. but 5 or 10 mins later it shut off everything. and some lucky days it works for whole day, without automatic shut off. do you have any ideas with this situation

The pilot will light, but as soon as you stop holding the pilot in the flame goes out. We bought a new thermopile 2 years ago, no luck… I am stumped as what it could be. I took the wires out to bypass the high safety switch, no luck. I can’t tell if the pilot knob is stuck by grease in the gas valve.

Usually when this happens the unit is wired wrong. If you look on the side of the gas valve there is a wiring diagram that will show you where the wires are supposed to attach. There should also be one on the door. If you do not have either let me know and I can fax or email you one.

working on an older model hobart milivolt system (nat gas) …after the pilot lights, i imediately let go of the button and it stays lit. it’s barely getting flame to the pilot… but yet it stays lit. after moving to the on position and turn on the t-stat…nothing happens ????

I have an American Range AF45 and need some help to fix it. The biggest problem I have is that I’m not exactly sure what the problem is. So, here is what is giong on. The pilot turns on but the wiring from the thermostat gas knob fell off and I need help rewiring it. Anything you can do to help? Thank YOu

Is the burner still burning at the same velocity as when you first started it? If it has dropped it may be that the combination safety is not opening all the way. This could be caused by the thermopile not putting out enough millivolts. That is where I would start. Change it and see if this improves the operation. If it does not I would change the combo valve.

Have a Elite Imperal 40# propane gas fryer.. Ran out of propane the other day, got bottle filled, but now gas won’t come thriough to pilot when depressed to light.. Gave plenty of time to clear line but seems like no gas is being allowed through? Took off supply from fryer, getting gas through regulator at tank to the fryer?? Only a year old but could it be gas valve? Nothing in trouble shooting to deal with this other than turning on gas tank or deopressing pilot long enough which I have… Any help appriciated..

It could be that when you filled the tank that some debris got into the pilot orifice. Disconnect the gas tube from the bottom of the pilot and drop out the orifice and make sure the hole is not blocked. This sometimes happens because most gas line have some debris in them.

I have an Avalon gas donut fryer that was working fine until one day I changed the oil and accidentally touched the sensor. Now when frying donuts at 400 degrees, every time I drop in the donuts the temps drops down to 350. So I would have to wait for the temp to go back up to 400 again in order to do another batch. If it’s one of the mention problem, where can I get the spare part. Thank you in advance

Hi: I have a gas fryer Pitco 40C SS. I replaced the limit switch and the thermostat. Two months ago i replaced the thermopile The pilot light will stay on but the burners will not ignite. What do you think the problem is?

Could be either the thermostat again or the combination safety valve. If you remove one of the wires from the thermostat and touch it to the other wire on the thermostat and the burners fire then you know it is the thermostat. If it still does not fire then the combination safety is going to be the issue.

Was just googling around to see what’s wrong w my fryer. I’m not too sure what make it is but when I hold the pilot the gas flows and it lights up, however when I realise the pilot, the gas cuts off and it won’t light otherwise. What do you reckon is the problem? Also, I hope you’ve had a wonderful christmas!

Sounds like the thermopile is not staying hot enough. Make sure it is as far into the flame of the pilot as possible. Also check to see if the pilot flame drops down when the burners kick on. If it does try adjusting the flame a little higher. If it still reacts the same way I would recommend replacing the regulator it may not be letting the proper amount of gas through. That is the least expensive way to start. If it continues you may have to replace the combination safety valve

I’ve just leased a furnished restaurant and am having a problem with my Pitco single well, double basket fryer. It works OK, but has a very loud high pitched whine that is driving us all crazy. We’ve had the gas company check the gas flow and it’s fine. It whines no matter the temperature setting, usage or kitchen temperature. We think it may be haunted :). Any help would be appreciated.

Imperial Nat gas fryer replaced thermopile last June as you suggested now all of a sudden pilot stays lit but when knob is turned to 350 degrees it won’t ignite and burners don’t come on. Help!!!

I have a pitco fryer that the pilot remians lit and gas ingites and heats up after a short while the everything shuts off. I replaced the thermostat and the problem is the same. Could it be the high limit?

we are currently testing with water to see if we can spot the leak (I drained the oil to prevent a mess , plus water should slip through a crack more easily and be more noticeable when leaking) but I was wondering if you had any other ideas on what the problem might be.

We have a problem with our Entree fryer (brand name) not turning off when the dial is turned to off. This has happened 2-3 times over the last 6-8 months. If it doesn’t self-correct, we turn off the gas. The next day it would work fine. Any ideas?

Not knowing what controls an Entrée fryer has I will assume it is a millivolt system. If this is correct it may be that the combination safety is just slightly sticking open every now and then. The next time it happens try taping on the side of the combo valve and see if it stops. If it does then you should change the combo valve.

Got a Pitco SG 14 been running fine 2 years . THe other night it began blowing back flames from tubes up the front vents? burning a spot on flat front of fryer. Tried geting into tube/burner area and blowing out jets with air. same deal, thinking some carbon built up. Problem is it is the first tube right behind the combo valve and can’t get at it to make sure nothing is blocking the flow of gas. Any thoughts or does it sound like I need to take off whole valve. But once off how will I know if it is a jet or just clogged jets.

I appreciate you sharing your expertise with the community and would like your input on a problem I have. I have a pretty old Deep Fryer and do not know the model number. The name plate is worn away and I would estimate that the unit is at least 15 to 20 years old. The pilot will not light at ALL. I push the button, but don’t hear any gas flow. Any idea on what the cause may be? How should I go about troubleshooting? Thank you.

hi i have a pitco frialator 35c the pilot goes out when release the button i change the thermopile already. how can i check if it the high limit or the safety valve thank you

Sounds like the hi limit is open. Just take one wire off of it and attach it with the other wire. Then try to light the pilot. If it stays on then you will need to replace the hi limit. If it does not then the combination safety valve is probably bad.

Hello I have a Keating nat gas deep fryer worked good then now when it calls for the burner tubes you hear a click and the pilot goes out. Any help on this? Thanks

i have a pitco gas 40 lbs. I can light the pilot and ignite the flames. But after about 5 minutes everything just shuts off..any suggestions?? thanks.

Im opening a food truck and i just got everything in a run, propane was just run my self, witch is ran from a 30lb tank through a regulator then pipped in to the equipment, i have a table top double burner that works just fine so i know the gas lines i ran work, but i have 2 deep fryers, one is 70lb fryer and a 40lb fryer which i cannot light, the pilots wont light and wen i turn the thermostat valve on bother the fryers just to see if i hear the gas coming out and i hear nothing, so my question is do my commercial deep fryers have built in regulators? and if so is the problem that im running 2 regulators? if not then any idea why im not getting gas to them? its extremely frustrating i keep running into problems with my truck. can you please help me out?

I have a older Cecilware double basket gas fryer and it works good if i keep it under 325 but as soon as i put the temperature any higher it will go that temp but when the main burners turn off the pilot light goes out as well. under that temperature the pilot stays lit not sure what to do thanks for any help

I just replaced a gas valve on a fryer because the old one leaked gas around the on/off /pilot knob and would occasionally flame up just a little. Now, when the burner ignites, there is a constant surge of gas to full power and then almost off at about one second intervals. I tried a different propane bottle and purchased a new regulator. I think the burner is rated at about 111,000 btu. The new regulator is rated at 200,000 btu. What might be wrong?

When you got the fryer was it set up for propane or natural gas? If it was natural and you put propane to the combination safety valve the pressure more than likely blew out the inside of the valve.

I have a pitco double natural gas deep fryer that seems to have a problem. When I tried to turn on the fryer the ignite won’t lit, I don’t know if it is the thermostat or the thermopile causing problem. This is my first time operating the deep fryer and so I am really clueless of what is going on. Can you please help. Am really appreciate you taking the time help the community.

I just bought two deep fat counter top fryers on an online auction. When I went to pick them up they didn’t have any way to tell what make they are so that I can change them from Natural gas to LP. I took out an orfice and it didn’t have any numbers on it. It is a five burner commercial fryer with a rodger shaw control valve and hold three small baskets. Can you please help?

I have an AF fryer. deep cleaned. Pilot started, does the fryer have to have oil in it and on sensors to fire up the burners ? When I switch the thermostat dial on no gas goes to burners.

Sounds as though you may have one of two problems. Either the thermostat or the combination safety are defective. The easiest way to find out is to jump out the thermostat. If it fires then you know it is the thermostat that is bad. If it does not then the combo valve is bad.

Sounds as though the thermostat and the hi limit have both failed. The thermostat is runnin wild causing the oil to over heat. The hi limit that which is the safety for just a case as this failed to shut the unit down.

There are two sensing bulbs in the tank, one is for the thermostat and the other is for the hi limit safety. If either of those were broken then either the thermostat or the hi limit would have had to be replaced because the thermocouple that is attached to them is not a replaceable part. So that may be why his bill was so high.

Sounds as though the combination safety valve is bad. It has two little solenoids in it, one for the pilot and one for the main gas to flow through. Sounds like the pilot one is working but the main one is not opening. You will have to replace the combination safety. Tundra does stock that as a part #41-425 at a cost of $175.57.

I have a Magikitchn MK42 deep fryer that has major sooting problems. It also shoots flames out the exhaust every time it kicks in. The soot builds up so badly that I have to take the burners out once a week and scrape out the shafts and vacuum them clean. It’s getting to be a bit of a burden to do every Sunday on my only day off. So, at first I thought it was the valve unit and had that examined. It would only do a maximum WC of 6″ so I had that professionally changed and set at around 10″. The flame was still burning orange so they tech dropped the bar with all the orifices on it as far down as it would go and that temporarily helped. The gas/air flow ratio seemed better and the sooting slowed down. But now it’s as bad as ever and I can’t lower that bar any further. So the only other thing I’m left to wonder about is if the orifices are too big and are letting too much gas out. I know the regulator on the line is good and I know I’m getting 10″ WC, but the soot and flame is still out of control. Do you know what orifice size this fryer should need? It is placed in a food truck in a city at 26 ft altitude. Thank you, Jacob

It sounds as though there may be a blockage in the flue. If there is it would have the symptoms you describe. With a blockage the air flow would be restricted causing the soot problem. With a restriction it would also cause a gas build up in the tubes so when it fires it ignites the gas in the tubes causing it to shoot flames out the top of the flue.

On your Gold Medal it could be one of two problems. The thermostat may be running wild causing the hi limit to trip out. I am not sure if there is a combination safety in that unit because I can not find a break down on it. If there is it could be that it is defective. If the coils in side of it are weak then it could cause the problem. If you have to wait to relight the pilot then I would say the thermostat is bad.

I am a server at an airport restaurant and I work in a very tiny kitchen with a deep fryer that’s making sounds that are very loud banging noises like a car backfiring. The cooks say this has been happening for well over a year off and on. A repair person came to repair it and said it was some sort of relay problem causing gas to build up inside and then it would suddenly release all the gas at the same time making the loud sound. They assure me that it’s not a safety issue, but when I asked the repair person what would happen if to much gas got built up inside because of this relay delay issue his eyes got really big and he said then you would have a problem. After assuring me his repair had fixed it and it wouldn’t happen anymore, the very next day it was backfiring five times in a row.

That does not even sound right to me. It sounds to me like the main gas valve my be leaking by and building up gas in the burner tubes or there may be a blockage in the flue causing a gas build up. Check the flue and make sure it is clear. Either way it is not safe! If it is the gas valve leaking by it can only get worse. I would have another service company check the fryer.

Great website! You helped me replace my fryer parts today, but I am still having a problem. I have an imperial fryer (unsure of model number as it is rubbed off and illegible) 3 burner tube style that runs on natural gas. Today I replaced the thermostat and the high limit which both came with new thermopiles. Before replacing, fryer flames would not shut off automatically and then a few days later, pilot would not light at all. After replacing said parts, the pilot comes on and stays on, the fryer burners ignite, but it still will not turn off when the appropriate temperature is reached. What do I do next? Thank you in advance!

Sounds like it could be wired wrong or you received a defective thermostat. Is this just a single pot fryer? What type of combination safety is in it? I mean is it a Robertshaw, Honeywell or White Rogers. Which ever one it is would determine how it is wired. Tundra can provide a wiring diagram for which ever valve you have even with out a model number.

I have this fryer counter top commercial don’t know make tag burned off . Had this problem when burner would shut off would back fire and blow pilot out.mi changed tstat, hi limit and gas valve and cleaned burners. Now it back fires, blows one or no tube out( 4 tubes 2 burners can send pic ) then makes gurgling sound but stays running. Also turned up pilot flame so pilot now does not go out usually. Thanks for the help

Usually when a fryer has blow back (back fires) it is because there is a build up of gas in the burner tubes. This usually is caused by a blockage in the flue. So check to see if there is something blocking the flue.

It is a single pot fryer, with a Honeywell safety I believe. When I reconnected the wires, I went fire for wire, one part at a time. I’ve been told that I was shipped the wrong parts, but the part numbers that I ordered are the numbers that imperial gave me. 1175 and 1177. Are there other parts that go to the older fryer models? This one has to be at least 10 years old…

I have a double pitco frialator. The pilot won’t light on either side. It seems odd that both safety valves should fail. Gas supply seems fine. Is there any way to test the safety valves before I get elbows deep in the the guts of this fryer?

Could I hold the lighter on the thermopile until it was producing enough voltage to open the gas valve and then see if the main burners would light? Are there other ways to test it?

You can use a small propane torch to heat the thermopile. Now that you say you do not get gas at one of the pilots and barely enough for a flame on the other makes me think there is a blockage some where. I would start with the regulator because there is a screen on the inlet side of it. If it is plugged that could be causing the problem.

I have run an old Imperial 35 for several years on propane in an outdoor setting. The rest. equipment guys around me don’t know much about propane, the propane guys don’t know anything about cooking equipment (they specialize in hi-pressure welding applications). I have learned that a 20lb tank is too small to allow for proper vaporization and that hi demand from the fryer will cause the tank to ice up and not deliver any gas. I have also learned that those standard single-body regulators sold for LP gas grills are not great and often slightly too high pressure for the fryer, sometimes the gas is delivered so quickly it blows the pilot right out.

Then a problem. I don’t believe it is the brand new fryer, but my propane supply. It was too difficult to tell if the tank was empty, but I believe there was still about 20-25 lbs of gas in the 100lb tank and the day before it ran great, frying 250lbs of hand-cut fries at a craft fair. The pilot lights and stays lit, when I turn the temp knob to 325 the pilot lowered, no burner ignition, and the “popping” of gas at the orifices, sometimes with a yellow flame appearing at the orifices. I swapped a 20lb tank for the 100lb tank, and it lit, but fired for only a couple of minutes and then shut off burners and pilot. A couple days later and with the 20lb tank the burners wouldn’t light at all, just the “popping”.

So here is the second reason I’m writing: can you help me find the propane information and parts required to operate mobile equipment? For example, if I have a splitter, can I operate both fryers from the 100lb tank? How do you compare equipment gas requirements to tank vaporization/output? How do we convert btu/hr to pounds/gallons per hour? How can I know for sure what regulator to use and where can I get them? ‘

For the sake of posterity, the problem was that the gas jets for the pilots had become clogged with goo. Don’t know how it got down in there or why it didn’t burn off, but while checking for blockages I removed the pilot tubes to check for gas flow at the regulator, which there was and traced it back until I eventually found the clogged jets. Problem solved. Thanks for your help

Hi, I’m working on a mk42 lp fryer , its a pitco. My customer says the fryer only goes down when they are busy, not when I am on site. The gas valve was previously not seating correctly so I changed that as well as the thermopile , my manifold press is 10.wc and my incoming pressure is 12″wc , my milivolt reading is great when I am there. My temperature is good and I do not have to reset the hi limit ,but the Burners and pilot drop out and can be re lit right away. I’m at a loss with this intermittent problem .

I have a dean sr 42 fryer that pilot will not light. I check high limit switch and thermopile both seem to be working fine. The fire dept came out and shut off gas because of a gas leak they thought. When we went to start fryer back up it would not light. I have a imperial range with same issue, burners will light but not oven pilot.

I am from South America, in my town there is no this type of fryers; but I!l want make me someone. If you were so nice of show me the circuit and the model and brands of valves that you use.

I wrote to you before on September 4. Thank you for the suggestion of the flue. I checked the flue and it is clear. I also vacuumed it all out to be sure. The flame and soot is worse than ever. The burner tubes now clog fully with soot in only 5 days of usage. And the flame sometimes swirls out the flue about two feet from the top. I’m almost to the point of chucking this thing out and buying a new fryer. But one last thing. When I was cleaning it today I took the time to take the orifices out and check them. The top of the orifice has 0625 stamped on it. So, I was trying to find some lp orifice charts online and none of them seem to think that this is the correct size. To recap, the unit is a MagiKitch’n MK42SM Fryer at 115,00 btu using LP gas. Can you confirm for me that the orifice size is incorrect or not? If so, do you know what size I need to get?

Lowering the manifold may have caused you more problems. The way this works is the orifice is sized to the burner venture length. What happens is as the gas comes out of the orifice it creates a vacuum to suck in the proper amount of air for the gas air mixture.

Also talking with the manufacturer they said that unit needs to run a water column of no less than 11″. If you are at 10″ of water column they said you are not getting enough gas flow through the orifices to get the correct mixture or air to gas.

Sounds as though you may have a weak combination safety valve. It is opening but not quite fast enough to allow enough gas through to ignite all the burners at the same time. Then it sounds as though once the combo valve gets a little warm it is not opening enough to allow enough gas for the burners to reignite.

It sounds as though you may have a unit with a manufacturer defect. In the area where it is leaking it could be a defective weld. Is the service company that looked at it certified by Imperial to do their warranty work? If they are not find out who in your area is and have them evaluate the problem.

I have an Imperial fryer that is acting very strange. Everything seems to work properly except when we are in a rush and the fryer is working hard, it starts making a high pitched whine that resinates throughout the restaurant. The strange thing is that the sound stops when we open the door of the fryer. Gas valve maybe? Or dirty orifice?

That is a strange one. Opening the door will not effect the gas valve. It may be that the orifices need cleaning. When you open the door it actually allows more air flow into the burner compartment so it could be a sign that there is an orifice problem. Look on the orifice and you should see a number on it. Take that number to your local hardware store and they will be able to cross it to the drill size of the hole in it. You may not even need a drill, you should be able to insert the bit into the hole with your fingers to clear any debris that may be in them.

The #36 orifice should be a .1065 drill size (which is considered wire size). Have you had this fryer long and are you running natural or propane gas.

Well I am perplexed. The orifices have #36 stamped right on them but the hole size is defiantly not that big. The are natural gas fryers that we bought used a few months ago. I did end up replacing the gas valve on the fryer in question; it was acting finicky there were times that it would not fire. While doing the replacement, I removed the four cast iron burners and cleaned all of the holes with the #36 drill bit. The bit fit the holes on the burners perfectly and I was able to remove quite a bit of debris. The fryer seems to be working properly now and is getting to temp. within a reasonable time. Still confused about the brass orifices though… I will have to look closer and see if the number on them is not 56 which would explain the smaller size. Then will have to have a talk with my equipment supplier and find out why he sold us LP fryers when we needed natural gas!

Hi, i have a frymaster 24g long john silvers series fryer that is boggling me.It is working almost all day then will fail to auto relight ( electronic ignition). You have to turn off the gas valve , and reset and it buzzes and relights and then works for 12 to 36 hours then repeats. The gas valve is new, i believe the hi’limit is too.Could it be the proofer or sail switch in the blower box? or loose wire? COULD it be the igniter? It ignites every time the temp drops and then shuts off when the temp setting is reached, its just periodically failing to relight then it shuts down until you reset it.

Dan, it sounds like the t-stat is bad. If you want to test it, just put a jumper on the 2 terminals of the thermostat: if the t-stat opens the burner will light and it means you have a bad t-stat. However, if it doesn’t open, then the gas valve is bad and you will need to replace that. One side of the gas valve that is regulated by the t-stat is closed and will not open when the t-stat calls for gas to the burners.

It sounds like a broken spring inside the combi valve – you may want to think about replacing it. We do carry combi valves for DCS here, https://www.etundra.com/dcs/, it you’re interested.

Hi, I’ve got another problem with my Pitco 14R. I’ve got a candling problem. Little flames that come up off the jets when the fryer is off. I’ve replaced the combination gas valve and it was fine for a few days but now it’s back. This is also a double fryer and one has the problem, the other is fine. Any ideas?

Perhaps I was unclear. The problem I’m having is that a small amount of gas is coming out of the combi valve when the thermostat is off even though I just replaced the valve. Little flames come up off the jet orifices, like candles (I can see it in the venturi space before the burner tubes.) If I turn the knob on the valve to the ‘Off’ position the flames go out. Once again, I just replaced the combi valve so it’s not that, unless I got a defective one from you guys.

Once again, responding for posterity. I found the answer to this problem. The valve on the thermostat had gotten dirty and was allowing a tiny bit of air to pass which kept the safety valve from closing completely. To fix this you can replace the thermostat or if you’re handy you can clean it out. Instructions below, proceed at your own risk.

Put the parts back in, first the rod (upright, use needle nose pliers), then the valve and then the spring. The valve sits with the conical part facing up and the spring on top.

We just hooked up our dean sr162gn and it works great. However, about every 5 minutes it will start humming the most high pitch horrible noise. So bad I can hear it in next room. Gas guys say it is not on their ends of the gas lines. Any idea of what may be wrong?

I being reading your articles on trouble shooting deep fryers . Your information is very useful .I have a Cecilware FMP 65 that was converter to LP . Last year I drop it off to be refurbished and cleaned up . My local way moved away and did no complete the job . That leaves me to try to navigate all this . I cleaned up the fryer but the pilot would light and when I went to turn the thermostat the pilot goes out every time . I order a combination valve . Robert Shaw 700-406 . I replaced the combination valve but still having same issue . The old combination valve did not have a serial number . That is why I order the 700-406. The old combination valve has a wire that connects out of the valve connecting to the wiring harness . The combination valve does not have this wire . The box for the new valve states 24 volts . Should I have bought a millivolt combination valve ? To add to confusion there is a a diagram with the instructions that state a hydraulic combination valve is availabel that works with a thermostat and a thermopile . Did I buy the wrong valve ? In addition when using the LP conversotion kit I did not notice any difference in the holes of the diaphragm is this normal ?

It sounds like you did order the wrong part, but hopefully we can get a fix for you. If you converted the deep fryer to LP, then you should be using the Millivolt combi, https://www.etundra.com/restaurant-parts/gas-parts/safety-valves/commercial-millivolt-natural-gas-combination-safety-valve-with-tan-dial/. Let us know how things work out if you do end up going with this combi.

Don, here’s a link to a troubleshooting manual for your fryer, http://www.pitco.com/PDFs/manuals/Heritage_Gas/L20-057.pdf. Take a look through there and see if you can get a resolution. Looks like you need page 4-9 to get started.

It looks like you have carbon build up, or the gas valve is not shutting completely off. Sounds like gas is bypassing the valve somehow. We’d recommend contacting Pitco tech support directly. To see if they could give you further insight.

I have a Pitco Frialator and a Dean gas fryers; came in this morning, drained & cleaned both, etc. , turned the heat up and within 20-30 seconds, they turn off.

Esme, the SSH55 series has options for a computer or digital controller, and is all stainless. The base unit for an MJ45 is gas control. You’ll get more BTU’s on the MJ45, which is better for faster recovery time, but with all the bells & whistles Pitco has, that may be a better option for you. The question really is, will the MJ45 suit your needs?

I have a Frialator 45c where the pilot will light, and stay lite. When the gas is on, the unit will function fine for a couple days. Then for not apparent reason, the pilot will remain lit, but when calling for heat, the burners will not ignite. When this call is made, the pilot will reduce in size to about half the height of the original pilot like it is starving for gas. Any suggestions?

With the pilot at least staying lit, you can rule out the thermopile, but the answer really is that this is a phantom call (meaning, we’d need a bit more information to really give you solid advice). If we had to guess we’d says it’s likely the combination gas safety valve, but we’re curious as to whether you’re seeing gas pressure fluctuations with any of the other equipment on site?

I am not sure on our model, fish and chip fryer, it’s old though. I know that the high limit is kaput on one pan but the pilot light itself is not a roaring flame like the other pan. I have located a relase valve which makes the pilot flame bigger if unscrewed but it’s still not very powerful, just a big yellow flame. Any suggestions?

I’ve got an AF-45 American range fryer and the flames are lazy. some flames are not getting into the burner and are actually coming out and producing soot all over the tops of my fryer. Thermostats and limits seem to be working properly. I’m thinking its the combination gas valve or my step down valve off my propane line. What could be the culprit and how would I diagnose it?

Hello, we have a Goldstein 3 burner LPG deep fryer (Australia). When the burners start up there is an explosive noise. It has gradually become louder over time as it kicks in to come back up to temp. There is also a gas smell within the shop. I had a technician tell me that the burners needed replacing. ( he said this without inspecting them) what do you think?

Nick, it sounds like there’s air in the gas line. You can check to see if there is a kink in any of the gas lines, and if so, straighten them out. Other than that, you may need to bleed/purge the lines. There are plenty of online DIY tutorials to help you do this on your own, but because it involves a gas line, we’d revert to recommending for you to contact a technician to help bleed/purge the lines.

I have a double bowl deepfryer that when very first turned on will blow it flames instead of on the wells out the front. The flames will come right out the door if unnoticed. It has burned off the handle of the drain latch and burned me through my clothes the outside gets so hot (this only happened the first time I noticed this as now I watch). I turn off the fryer, wait about 15 mins and 95 percent of the time it comes on normally and works fine all day. At no other point through out the day as it regulates it’s temp does this happen. The pilot is working fine. I’ve been using it at its location for 8 months now and the problem has other begun in the last two. It’s just over two years old and was converted from natural gas to propane when it was moved from one of our locations to the one it’s at now. Also not all the time but it seems more likely to occur if the oil was just changed to fresh. There’s been someone to services it and he’s blaming the wind, like from out side, seriously! We are inside and there is wind at all times of the day where is live, earth, so I don’t believe him. Any suggestions? I’m super remote and don’t have another serviceman option

Hi – I have PITCO gas 34P fryer. The front of the fryer gets really hot and burns the oil on the top of the pan. When I look at the burner valves, it appears that some flame doesn’t shoot straight down the flue, it wraps around the sides. I pulled the burner valves out and verified that all the little port holes were clear and unobstructed. The venting around and