gas oven safety valve testing quotation

This week’s Product Pick of the Week is the safety valve in your oven. The reason this product has been picked is because it is very important to understand how your range works to avoid hazardous situations such as open gas valves but no flame to burn said gas. This situation is the biggest concern with ovens, so it is crucial that you know how to test the safety valve so that you can continue using your range!

Thank you for your inquiry. The oven safety valve is one part that may fix the issue, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the igniter, the electronic control board and the temperature sensor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Can this oven valve work on my range? The range was plugged into the wrong outlet and it shorted out, the igniter glows when the stove is turned on however the burner isn"t lighting. I was told the the valve needs to be replaced.

Thank you for your question. This is not the correct safety valve for your appliance. I have listed the correct valve below for you. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Oven doesn"t heat. Igniter glows when gas is turned on, voltage on value starts near zero and slowly ramps up to just under 3 volts, but gas never ignites. The slow ramp seems normal to allow igniter to get hot, but not sure what the valve"s voltage should be to have it open. Valve coil is not open per ohm meter. Sounds like a bad valve? Thanks.

Hello Curt, Thank you for your inquiry. It sounds like it could be either this part or the pressure regulator. When the ignitor heats up to a certain temperature, it is supposed to trigger the valve to open and let the gas in to ignite and the regulator cuts it off at a certain pressure. Hope this helps!

Hello Sal, thank you for your question. You can test the gas valve to see if it has gone bad. You will need to test this with a multimeter. Here is a video that will show you how to test that valve.

Hello Steve, thank you for your question. The oven safety valve part number WB19K31 will work with either NAT or LP gas. The part itself can be switched over without any additional parts. Please check your owners manual on steps to change that over. I hope this helps!

In the oven a wire from the igniter shorted (had to pry the wire off the wall) to the frame. Would the control valve or the thermostat also be damaged. Where is the thermostat located on the stove. I noticed that the plastic on one of the knife connection on the control valve was missing

Hello Robert, thank you for writing. It is doubtful that the Oven Safety Valve or Oven Thermostat were also damaged when this occurred. The Oven Thermostat (part PS235170 on your model) is located behind the Manifold Panel (control panel). We hope this helps.

Hi there, i have a GE gas range (model jgbp28sem1ss) and need to replace the safety valve for the part of the oven that bakes. Is this the correct part? Thanks

Ensure compliance, prevent overpressure and protect downstream equipment with industry regulated repairs for Section I & Section VIII Pressure and Safety Relief Valves. We offer rapid response and delivery times to minimize plant downtime while maximizing valve performance. We service all major makes and manufacturers for emergency, maintenance and scheduled outage needs. We also repair and replace conservation, tank and vacuum vents. Contact our sales team today to receive a quotation to repair, test or replace your safety relief valves.

Valsource is certified by The National Board of Boiler and Pressure Vessel Inspectors to repair and test Section I and Section VIII Pressure relief and Safety Relief Valves. Every valve is repaired to standards set by The National Board’s VR program. We provide 24/7 repair, testing and engineering services. We also maintain an extensive inventory and can provide replacement valves and parts with same day delivery options.

Valsource provides 24/7 repair and testing services in our shop or in the field. Our valve program allows our technicians to repair, remove, install and test your pressure relief and safety relief valves on-site. Using our AVK Electronic Test Vessel Package, our technicians are able to accurately test safety relief valves on-site without removing them from line. The primary function is to verify the set pressure in-line without having to shut down a system or unit. This service is a sure way to guarantee minimal downtime and peak valve performance. If you are preparing to service your boiler, Valsource technicians will come to your site and test each main steam safety valve to determine which valves require service. We will perform the repairs in-house or on-site using our 53’ field machining trailer, install and re-test back to calibrated set points.

If you need the best in valve repair and remanufacturing, Valsource can deliver the right options for your company. We offer rapid response times and emergency repair services available to resolve unplanned outages quickly. Our experienced technicians look forward to working with you to determine the most effective solutions for your valve repair needs.

Low voltage, oven safety valve with female wire terminals for a flat ignitor. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

3/8" Oven safety valve with male wire terminals for a flat ignitor. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

3/8" inlet Oven safety valve. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

Dual terminal Oven safety valve. This gas oven safety valve ensures that no gas is released until the igniter has received the proper voltage needed to ignite the gas range.

• Range of Capability:​ MVS is able to test and repair a wide range of pressure relief valves installed on smaller 1/2-inch and up to larger 6x8 flange connections.

• Documentation:​ Technicians complete detailedrecord keeping of testing and repair reports.All information is tracked and managed in an online database.

• NBIC VR Certified:​ Test and repair procedures areperformed using calibrated instruments.Technicians can test, repair, and re-certify asrequired. If a valve fails, then it is rebuilt, retested, and repeated until acceptable.

• Capacity:​ 53-foot climate-controlled trailer isdesigned and equipped to accommodate a widerange of valves with temperature-controlled testing and repair conditions.

I picked up a second-hand Kenmore 790.70613210 and found out the oven did not work. After replacing the igniter (which didn"t fix the problem), I got this valve. While I do not know if the valve in the oven had ever been replaced before, this was the same valve as the one that I took out, and it fixed the problem. Box the valve came in said Robert Shaw which is a good brand. Time will tell if it holds up, but so far so good.

Igniter was glowing red and current flowing through it to the gas valve read just shy of 3 amps. Troubleshooting videos will generally lead you towards the igniter if the current flowing to this valve is less than ~3.2 Amps, so I replaced the igniter. No change in current and still no working oven. I installed this new valve, and current came up to spec and everything worked as it should. I am using propane, so I had to adjust the orifice a bit to get proper combustion, but otherwise this was a quick and painless process.

On a newer gas oven, the burners release and set fire to the gas via an igniter called the hot surface igniter. The ignitor is a very fragile thing, whether it’s the round or the flat type. It works like a chain reaction: turning on the oven sends electricity to the igniter, causing it to heat red-hot. This makes the two metals in the oven safety valve contort enough to open the valve and set the gas aflame. This chain reaction takes about 60 seconds in a working oven. And a persistently cold oven could be the result of any break along the chain. A burner that won’t light could be connected to an igniter with no power coming into its circuit. Have a repairperson check the circuit for electricity, since this is a live voltage check. If there is indeed power coming to the igniter, and it is open circuit, a multi-meter can be used to run a continuity check. It may be that, while the igniter is glowing, it’s still insufficiently hot to open the valve: this can be checked by your repairperson with an amp meter. A defective igniter can’t be repaired: replacement is the only option.

The kitchen is the heart of the home. It’s where families share dinner, gather together and pass down recipes. One of the worst things that can happen when preparing to cook an amazing meal for your family is to find out that your gas oven won’t light. Do you call a repairman or resort to the microwave?

A handy homeowner can troubleshoot the problem when a gas oven doesn’t light. A handful of common problems can plague gas ovens. Many are as simple as a loose connection, while others involve replacing important components. However, those simple repairs are less likely to cost you an arm and a leg. Before worrying about replacing your oven, see if one of these common issues is the cause of your oven problems.

You can check a handful of issues if your gas oven doesn’t light. From a simple power issue to a faulty gas igniter, here are a few common reasons your gas oven won’t work.

If your oven won’t heat and your gas burners won’t light, the problem might be as simple as a tripped circuit breaker. Even though you have a gas oven, it still needs electricity to run. Electricity powers the control board, igniter and temperature sensor, among other parts.

The oven should connect to a standard 15- or 20-amp switch inside your circuit breaker box. These are the single switches. Your oven may also have its own dedicated breaker switch. If not, you can check the power by testing the secondary outlet. The problem lies elsewhere if the outlet works but your gas oven does not.

While a rare occurrence, your gas oven may not heat because your gas supply is off — usually a result of maintenance repairs or replacements in the system. For example, if your oven or other gas-reliant appliance was recently repaired, the gas line is likely still turned off.

Like a thermostat, the temperature sensor regulates the oven temperature of your gas oven. It connects to the igniter switch. If the temperature sensor breaks, the oven will not light for safety reasons.

Troubleshooting and replacing this sensor is a fairly easy fix for a homeowner who is comfortable working on a gas oven. Unplug the oven from the wall.

The igniter controls the oven safety valve, also known as the gas valve. This oven component ensures only gas enters the oven when the igniter is hot enough to ignite it. This component stops working if there is not enough power to either the valve or the igniter. A handy homeowner can use a multimeter tool to test that the valve is working. Unplug your oven.

Use a multimeter tool on the RX1 setting and test the valve. Some brands use valves with terminals for both the broiler and the baking elements. Test both sets of terminals.

The igniter is the key component of a gas oven. If you have a faulty igniter, many of the other components will not work and the oven will not turn on. Oven igniters glow hot to ignite the natural gas released by the oven safety valve. However, if the heating element is not working, the gas valve will not trigger and the oven will not ignite.

To check the gas igniter: Turn off the circuit to the oven and confirm the power is off by checking that the oven light, clock and control board are all off.

If nothing looks wrong with the part, plug the oven back in and watch to see if the igniter glows after turning on the oven. If it does not glow orange, replace it.

Replacing a faulty gas oven igniter is a moderately easy DIY appliance repair. Estimated costs are between $40 and $80, depending on the cost of a replacement igniter. If you have a newer oven, check any manufacturer warranties before making any repairs.

While a homeowner can do this project, ensure you take every safety precaution before attempting. Turn off the oven’s gas supply and disconnect the appliance from the outlet. Remember to take precautions if you smell gas (even after you have turned off the supply to the oven). Turn off the main gas supply to your home, open windows for ventilation, and call an appliance technician for assistance.

To ensure you have the correct replacement igniter, have your oven model number and serial number. A Kenmore oven might not use the same part as a Whirlpool oven. These numbers are often found inside the oven door or drawer, depending on the brand of oven.

Turn off all power to your oven. Ensure the power is off by checking that the light, control board and clock are off. Then remove the oven racks. Next, unscrew the base plate and remove it from the oven. You will find the igniter underneath.

Take a reference photo before removing the old gas igniter. Install the new igniter in the same way. Be very careful with the new igniter because it is very fragile. Unplug the two wires or the wire harness from the igniter.

While your gas stove and gas oven are part of the same appliance, they do not use the same parts and components. This is why your gas burners can work while your gas oven won’t light. Your gas range has its own set of igniters, gas valves and safety features. If everything is in working order, your range can work independently of your gas oven.

Appliance repairs are always a big inconvenience and can sometimes cost an arm and a leg. Don’t get stuck without your most important appliances. Check out the Cinch Home Services warranty plan that cover appliances, including both gas and electric ovens. With three different options to choose from, you can find the right plan for your home.

WITT is a manufacturer of Pressure relief valvesor Safety relief valves for technical gases. They are designed to protect against overpressure by discharging pressurized gases and vapors from pipelines, pressure vessels and plant components. Safety relief valves (SRV) are often the last line of defense against explosion – and such an explosion could be fatal. Other common names for safety relief valves are pressure relief valve (PRV), safety valve, pressure safety valve, overpressure valve, relief valve or blow-off valve.

WITT safety valves are very precise. They are individually preset to open at a predetermined pressure within the range 0.07 to 652 Psi. Their small size and orientation-independent installation allow a wide range of connection options. WITT relief valves also stand out due to their high blow-off flow rates of up to 970m³/h. They can be used within a temperature range of -76° F to +518°F and even with very low pressures.

For maximum safety, WITT undertakes 100 % testing of each safety relief valve before it is delivered. In addition, WITT offers individual testing of eachsafety valveby the TÜV, with their certificate as proof of the correct set pressure.

WITTsafety relief valvesare direct-acting, spring-loaded valves. When the preset opening pressure is reached, a spring-loaded element in the valve gives way and opens, and the pressure is relieved. Once the pressures are equalized, the valve closes automatically and can be reactivated any time the pressure rises again. Depending on the application and the nature of the gas, the safety relief valvescan either discharge to atmosphere, or via a connected blow-off line. The opening pressure of the safety valves is preset by WITT at the factory according to the customer’s requirements.

Safety relief valvesare used in numerous industries and industrial applications where, for example, gases pass through pipelines or where special process vessels have to be filled with gas at a certain pressure.

For most industrial applications using technical gases, brass is usually the standard material of construction of thesafety relief valvebody/housing. For the use of pressure relief valves with aggressive and corrosive gases, the housings are made of high-quality stainless steel (1.4541/AISI 321, 1.4404/AISI 316L, 1.4305/AISI 303 or 1.4571/AISI 316Ti). The use of aluminium as a housing material is also possible.

Depending on the type of gas used and individual customer requirements, various sealing materials and elastomers are available to ensure the safety of your systems under even the most difficult conditions.

WITT pressure relief valves are available with different connections. In addition to the standard versions with the usual internal or external threads, special versions with KF or CF flanges, VCR or UNF threads can also be ordered. Special adapters for connecting the safety relief valve to a blow-off line are also available.