ge xl44 safety valve factory

It"s fixed! here"s what I found during troubleshooting this issue. I checked the resistance on the oven safety valve to be 1.6 ohms on both sides. Then I checked the current to the valve while calling for bake and found 2.65 amps which is in the correct range. Still no gas flow to the oven when calling for bake or broil. Then I removed the incoming gas pipe to the oven safety valve to see if any gas was flowing and found none. So now I am looking and suspect a faulty regulator since the stove top burners were normal. As I am looking and feeling around the regulator I found a loose red tab behind it and noticed where it belonged. It fell off the regulator that holds the valve open to the oven safety valve. I was unable to put it on without taking out the regulator and then able to fit it on correctly. Not sure how if fell off, but that"s all it was! Thanks for all your help!!!

Most modern appliances have safety features built in, but your gas oven safety valve is arguably the most important. If an electrical appliance malfunctions, it can cause a fire, but a misfiring gas oven could potentially blow up your house. You don"t ​really​ need to know how the safety mechanism works to use your oven, but you may find that it gives you some extra peace of mind.

Broadly speaking, there are two ways a built-in safety mechanism can work. One option is that it remains "open" by default and to shut off if certain conditions are met. That"s how fuses and circuit breakers work in an electrical circuit: Ordinarily, the electricity is free to flow, but if the current grows too large, the fuse or breaker will blow and cut off the circulation of electricity.

The other option is for your safety mechanism to be "closed" by default and allow a device to operate only when the correct conditions are met. That"s how a gas oven safety valve works. Gas ordinarily is prevented from flowing, and if the valve is working correctly, it opens only when you want to light your oven.

Many gas stoves use what"s called a "hot surface igniter," a bar or element (similar to the ones on your stovetop) that gets hot enough to ignite the gas on contact. Gas oven safety valves on stoves with this type of ignition system take a couple of different approaches.

In one approach, a bimetallic strip operates the valve. It harnesses a simple scientific principle: Metals expand and contract at different rates when they"re heated and cooled. If you bond two suitable metals together in one strip, that strip will flex to a predictable degree as the temperature goes up and down. Wall-mount thermostats often use this principle, as do analog oven thermometers and the thermometer in the lid of your gas grill.

As appliance-repair website PartSelect explains, turning on your gas oven causes electricity to flow into the heating element of your hot surface igniter. As the igniter heats up, it warms a bimetallic strip inside your gas oven safety valve. When the igniter reaches its operating temperature, the bimetallic strip opens the valve and allows the gas to flow, igniting as it crosses the heated surface.

One intriguing thing about electricity is that a change in temperature can affect how well it passes through certain materials. For example, a lot of research revolves around ​superconductors​ – materials that offer very little resistance to an electrical current – but superconductors typically must be heavily chilled to work.

According to heating-equipment vendor Anglo Nordic, gas oven safety valves use a variation of that principle to operate. In these stoves, the flow of electrical current through the hot surface igniter becomes the control mechanism. The igniter"s bar is made of a material that offers less and less resistance to electricity as it heats. When it reaches the temperature required to ignite the gas, its resistance becomes low enough to trip the safety valve and open the flow of gas.

More modern ranges use an electrical igniter. When you turn on your oven, the gas begins flowing immediately, and it sends an electrical current to a piezo electric igniter. The current makes the igniter spark (like the manual igniter on your gas grill) and lights the oven"s burner. In this case, the safety valve works in the opposite way: An electronic sensor checks for the heat caused by ignition after a few seconds, and if it"s absent, it will close the valve and shut off the flow of gas.

It"s worth pointing out that not all gas ovens have a safety valve in the conventional sense. Older stoves simply use a pilot light, a small but constant flow of gas, which, in turn, feeds a small, candle-like flame. You essentially ​are​ the safety mechanism in this system: It"s up to you to check that the pilot is lit. When you turn on the gas manually, the small pilot flame ignites the main flame. It"s a mechanically simple system, which makes it durable, and for that reason, you"ll still see it used on commercial restaurant ranges, which must stand up to decades of heavy use.

I received the part and it was packaged properly, it was an exact fit for our oven and resolved our issue. Once I replace the old gas safety valve with this one our oven started working again.

Standard-clean models: jgbs03; jgbs04; jgss05; jgbs07; jgbs15; jgbs17; jgbs20; jgbs21; jgbs22; jgbs23 continuous-clean models: jgbc17; jgbc20; (48 pages)

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

Dual gas safety valve assembly. The gas oven safety valve works with the oven igniter to provide gas to the burner. If the safety valve fails, the oven won’t heat. Since safety valves rarely fail, be sure to check more commonly defective parts before replacing the safety valve.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.

These valves do not fail very often. Normally the problem is with the ignitor not drawing enough amperage to open the valve. Even if the ignitor is glowing orange it is likely still the cause of the burner not igniting. Technicians refer to this as a "weak" igniter.