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Weeks ago, Aquarion Water Company must have come a’calling—and since I am visitor-proof, they left an urgent notice on our doorknob. By the way, nothing says *urgent* like a white luggage tag on the front door. I was instructed to contact the company immediately regarding a water leak on our property.

Aquarion refused to be ignored, sending a big white van to pay me a visit. They really stepped it up from the white door tag. This time, the dog alerted me to the vehicular presence in the driveway, and that is where I met my fate. I perp-walked out to the technician feeling rather guilty. After a boots-on-the-ground consultation, I was asked a question that no one in New Canaan is prepared to answer in the affirmative: Do you have water line safety valve insurance?

Ummm, no. You mean those silly letters that I throw away every month and say, “Ha, what sucker buys safety valve insurance?” It was made very clear why the insurance is worth the investment and it was painful. All of the sudden, I had become the New Canaan version of Diane Keaton’s character from “Baby Boom,” and was quite literally, drowning in homeownership hell.

That said, I was quoted up to $10,000 if my leak hide-and-seek project was major. This was not what I had bargained for when I threw away all of those safety valve insurance mailers.

Service Line Warranties of America (SLWA), a HomeServe USA company operating out of Pennsylvania, offers protection plans for your home’s heating, cooling, water, sewer, gas, and electrical lines. This company is separate from local utilities, and the service contracts it provides will cover damage to utility lines that home insurance and local municipalities won’t. Keep reading this review to learn more about plans, coverage, and pricing.

Although this company doesn’t offer coverage for individual electrical appliances like refrigerators or freezers, it will cover the main electrical system inside your home.

There does not appear to be any add-on or customizable options with this home warranty company—you may only choose from the warranty plans that the company offers in your location. However, you can purchase packages that combine the company’s heating and cooling plans in some locations.

Note: Service Line Warranties offers discounts in some locations. For example, in this zip code, the company offers the first year of its Exterior Septic/Sewer Line plan for 50% off—it would normally be $12.48 a month. Purchasing a combo plan, if one is available in your area, may also save you money over purchasing both plans separately.

The company will dispatch one of its contractors to repair or replace the faulty part, as long as it’s covered by your plan. There’s no need to pay the technician—you will only need to sign off on the service line repairs, and Service Line Warranties will pay the contractor.

Service Line Warranties of America has been an accredited business with the Better Business Bureau (BBB) for 14 years, and it maintains an A+ rating based on its handling of customer complaints. Despite its rating, Service Line Warranties of America has a mix of positive and negative reviews, as any good home warranty company will have. Here is what some of the company’s customers had to say.

Service Line Warranties of America is the official provider for the National League of Cities Service Line Warranty Program, and the NLC Service Line Warranty Program is administered by SLWA parent, Utility Service Partners, Inc. Service Line Warranties of America and Utility Service Partners are part of HomeServe USA Corp, a company providing home repair solutions in the United States and Canada.

The This Old House Reviews Team gives Service Line Warranties of America a 6.97/10. Service Line Warranties provides coverage for plumbing, sewer, gas, and electric systems and charges low premiums and no service call fees. The maximum caps on repair payouts are high and the claims process is simple. However, the company only covers some of your home’s systems and is available in only a few states.

Our team rated more than 50 home warranty companies and found that American Home Shield is the best on the market. Its extensive plan options, nationwide availability, and five decades of experience make it a worthwhile investment for homeowners.

The This Old House Reviews Team backs up our home warranty ratings and recommendations with adetailed rating methodologyto objectively score each provider. We conduct research by speaking with company representatives, requesting quotes, analyzing sample contracts from each company, and conducting focus groups and consumer surveys. We then score each provider against our review standards for coverage, value, trustworthiness and transparency, availability, and customer service to arrive at a final score out of 100.

The WAGS Valve is a brand-name product designed to eliminate the risk of and damage caused by flooding when a hot water heater fails to drain properly. WAGS stands for Water And Gas Safety. Some statistics suggest that a majority of water heaters fail within 7-10 years. While that number seems high in our personal experience, statistically about 5 million tank failures occur every year. Not all of these are catastrophic. However, during these leaks, the water heater keeps refilling and leaking. This creates a damaging cycle that can go on for some time until it is discovered or remedied.

The WAGS valve is designed to shut off the water supply when it detects a water leak. Typically this would come from a hot water heater. In this way, a WAGS valve minimizes water damage and, on the enhanced models, possible gas leakage.

You can easily install a WAGS valve on all styles of water heaters. It’s fully mechanical and requires no external power supply. If a leak occurs, an internal water-soluble fiber element dissolves, releasing a powerful, spring-loaded piston. This immediately shuts down water flow to the tank.

The valve’s action is based on fiber element technology developed for the British Royal Air Force to inflate life jackets automatically. Once activated, the valve shuts off the water and the gas supply.

The device even causes a red pop-up tab to emerge. This lets you know an activation has occurred. You need to replace a WAGS valve once it activates. That may seem like a pain if you sweated it in using copper. Considering it stopped a leak, however, that “pain” may be well worth the hassle and cost of replacing the valve.

The WAGS valve is a very simple, and relatively inexpensive device that could save you tons of money in the event of a water heater leak. It’s definitely something to consider having installed the next time you replace your tank.

“I received a brochure in the mail regarding Connecticut Water’s Linebacker Protection program. There’s scant detail in the information, but I gather it’s a program that insures the water line from the road to your house. Should one of those lines break the cost can run into the thousands of dollars and is borne by the homeowner, not the water company. Can you please tell me whether this is a legitimate program and whether the entire cost of a line breaking would be covered? Thanks.”

As for insurance offers from Connecticut Water and other utilities, Coyle said PURA does not regulate those programs, and terms and prices can vary from company to company. “Individual households should shop around and do their homework,” he said.

• Linebacker, $85/year. Covers the cost of repairing or replacing the service line, curb valve, and first shut-off valve, with a $10,000 limit per year.

• Linebacker Complete, $185/year. Linebacker Plan plus in-home plumbing coverage for internal water pipes, connected fittings, and valves but not leaking or broken water fixtures. Service fee/repair is $50 plus up to $2,000 for remaining plumbing repair.

So, how often do water service line leaks occur on private property? I contacted Kerry Martin, assistant to MDC’s CEO, who gave me the data for two north central Connecticut towns that the utility covers. Of course, the MDC won’t know about leaks if homeowners repair them without reporting them.

“Covered repairs” include “as many service calls as you need … to repair or replace a leaking, frozen, or permanently blocked exterior water-service line from your utility’s responsibility … to the water meter or main shut-off valve inside your home damaged due to normal wear and tear not accident or negligence.”

The cost of walk-in tubs varies quite a bit depending on size and features. The models chosen by our Reviews Team are some of the most affordable walk-in bathtubs on the market, but installation will add to the cost of your new walk-in tub.

It’s important to know what size of seat you will need to bathe safely and comfortably. A member of our Reviews Team (seefigure 1 below) sat in a few different models with seats that measured 23 inches wide by 15 inches deep, which is standard for many walk-in tubs. While she found those seats to be adequately sized for her 5-foot 5-inch frame, someone taller and/or larger would likely have felt cramped.

You also don’t want a seat that isn’t deep enough. This could be a matter not only of convenience but also safety; a shallow seat may cause you to slip off when turning around while bathing or reaching for something behind you, for instance.

Wheelchair-accessible tubs comply with ADA standards, meaning they meet certain requirements for ease of use and safety features. The threshold on wheelchair-accessible tubs is very low, and the width of the door is wider, to allow the user to move from the wheelchair to the tub seat.

Some walk-in tubs also offer overheating protection (also known as anti-scald valves). As an added safety measure, theConsumer Product Safety Commissionrecommends setting the maximum temperature on your water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent burns.1

The design and safety features of walk-in tubs can also help caregivers who may need to bathe older adults or people with a disability. A walk-in tub makes it easier for caregivers to move around in the bathroom without getting wet, and reach all angles of the bathtub to help someone bathe.

In addition to the standard features above that help ensure your safety while bathing, many walk-in tub makers offer some or all of the following special features.

Practice reaching behind your back and turning in the seat to make sure you can move around without losing your balance. If you’re concerned about having enough room in the tub, it’s worth the time and effort to make sure you’re happy with the size offered before ordering one. Ending up with a seat that’s too narrow or not deep enough to sit on safely will affect your experience (and possibly your safety) while using a walk-in tub.

It’s a good idea to have an occupational or physical therapist, or a nurse experienced in older adult care conduct a home safety evaluation before purchasing a walk-in tub with an outward-swinging door. They can evaluate your bathroom space, spot any hazards that need to be addressed when installing the tub, and talk you through getting in and out of the tub. You can usually set up an evaluation by asking your doctor for a prescription, which will ensure that insurance orMedicarepays for it.

One company the Reviews Team called (but didn’t include in this review) would not give a definite answer on returns, saying it would depend on the circumstances and how much the tub had been customized.

It’s important to see the return policy in writing before ordering, so you know what recourse you have if the tub arrives damaged or you simply don’t like it once you see it in person. For example, the seat may not be comfortable, or it may be hard to reach the faucet and controls while seated in the tub. One of our Reviews Team members was surprised at how much pressure it took to hold the door closed while latching the handle on several walk-in tub models.

Our Reviews Team recommends buying a walk-in bathtub from a company with a return window. This will give you the chance to sit in the tub, try out the door and controls, and make sure the grab bars are conveniently placed for you, all before installing it.

New replacement air compressor pressure safety relief valves. Using the correct one for your application is critical for safety. If you need help picking the right one, please call us for assistance.

Corporation stop—The corporation stop is connected to the water main. This connection is usually made of brass and can be connected to the main with a special tool without shutting off the municipal supply. The valve incorporated in the corporation stop permits the pressure to be maintained in the main while the service to the building is completed.

Curb stop—The curb stop is a similar valve used to isolate the building from the main for repairs, nonpayment, of water bills or flooded basements. Because the corporation stop is usually under the street and it is necessary to break the pavement to reach the valve, the curb stop is used as the isolation valve.

Curb stop box—The curb stop box is an access box to the curb stop for opening and closing the valve. A long-handled wrench is used to reach the valve.

Meter stop—The meter stop is a valve placed on the street side of the water meter to isolate it for installation or maintenance. Many codes require a gate valve on the house side of the meter to shut off water for plumbing repairs. The curb and meter stops can be ruined in a short time if used very frequently.

The water meter is a device used to measure the amount of water used in the house. It is usually the property of the water provider and is a very delicate instrument that should not be abused. In cold climates, the water meter is often inside the home to keep it from freezing. When the meter is located inside the home, the company providing the water must make appointments to read the meter, which often results in higher water costs unless the meter is equipped with a signal that can be observed from the outside. The water meter is not shown in

The supply mains should have a drain valve stop and waste valve to remove water from the system for repairs. These valves should be on the low end of the line or on the end of each fixture riser.

Copper lasts a long time, is durable, and connects well to valves. It should not be installed if the water has a pH of 6.5 or less. Most public utilities supply water at a pH between 7.2 and 8.0. Many utilities that have source water with a pH below 6.5 treat the water to raise the pH. Private well water systems often have a pH below 6.5. When this is the case, installing a treatment system to make the water less acidic is a good idea [5].

Galvanized Steel. Galvanized pipe corrodes rather easily. The typical life of this piping is about 40 years. One of the primary problems with galvanized steel is that, in saturated water, the pipe will become severely restricted by corrosion that eventually fills the pipe completely. Another problem is that the mismatch of metals between the brass valves and the steel results in corrosion. Whenever steel pipe meets copper or brass, the steel pipe will rapidly corrode. Dielectric unions can be used between copper and steel pipes; however, these unions will close off flow in a short time. The problem with dielectric unions is that they break the grounding effect if a live electrical wire comes in contact with a pipe. Some cities require the two pipes to be bonded electrically to maintain the safety of grounded pipes.

A tap-water temperature of 120ºF–130ºF (49ºC–54ºC) is hot enough for washing clothes, bedding, and dishes. Even at 130ºF (54ºC), water takes only a few minutes of constant contact to produce a third-degree burn. Few people bathe at temperatures above 110ºF (43ºC), nor should they. Water heater thermostats should be set at about 120ºF (49ºC) for safety and to save 18% of the energy used at 140ºF (60ºC). Antiscald devices for faucets and showerheads to regulate water temperature can help prevent burns. A plumber should install and calibrate these devices. Most hot water tank installations now require an expansion tank to reduce pressure fluctuations and a heat trap to keep hot water from escaping up pipes.

It is essential that valves be used in a water system to allow the system to be controlled in a safe and efficient manner. The number, type, and size of valves required will depend on the size and complexity of the system. Most valves can be purchased in sizes and types to match the pipe sizes used in water system installations. Listed below are some of the more commonly encountered valves with a description of their basic functions.

Shutoff Valves. Shutoff valves should be installed between the pump and the pressure tank and between the pressure tank and service entry to a building. Globe, gate, and ball valves are common shutoff valves. Gate and ball valves cause less friction loss than do globe valves; ball valves last longer and leak less than do gate valves. Shutoff valves allow servicing of parts of the system without draining the entire system.

Flow-control Valves. Flow-control valves provide uniform flow at varying pressures. They are sometimes needed to regulate or limit the use of water because of limited water flow from low-yielding wells or an inadequate pumping system. They also may be needed with some treatment equipment. These valves are often used to limit flow to a fixture. Orifices, mechanical valves, or diaphragm valves are used to restrict the flow to any one service line or complete system and to assure a minimum flow rate to all outlets.

Relief Valves. Relief valves permit water or air to escape from the system to relieve excess pressure. They are spring-controlled and are usually adjustable to relieve varying pressures, generally above 60 psi. Relief valves should be installed in systems that may develop pressures exceeding the rated limits of the pressure tank or distribution system. Positive displacement and submersible pumps and water heaters can develop these excessive pressures. The relief valve should be installed between the pump and the first shutoff valve and must be capable of discharging the flow rate of the pump. A combined pressure and temperature relief valve is needed on all water heaters. Combination pressure and vacuum relief valves also should be installed to prevent vacuum damage to the system.

Pressure-reducing Valves. A pressure-reducing valve is used to reduce line pressure. On main lines, this allows the use of thinner walled pipe and protects house plumbing. Sometimes these valves are installed on individual services to protect plumbing.

Altitude Valves. Often an altitude valve is installed at the base of a hot water tank to prevent it from overflowing. Altitude valves sense the tank level through a pressure line to the tank. An adjustable spring allows setting the level so that the valve closes and prevents more inflow when the tank becomes full.

Foot Valves. A foot valve is a special type of check valve installed at the end of a suction pipe or below the jet in a well to prevent backflow and loss of prime. The valve should be of good quality and cause little friction loss.

Check Valves. Check valves have a function similar to foot valves. They permit water flow in only one direction through a pipe. A submersible pump may use several check valves. One is located at the top of the pump to prevent backflow from causing back spin of the impellers. Some systems use another check valve and a snifter valve. They will be in the drop pipe or pitless unit in the well casing and allow a weep hole located between the two valves to drain part of the pipe. When the pump is started, it will force the air from the drained part of the pipe into the pressure tank, thus recharging the pressure tank.

Frost-proof Faucets. Frost-proof faucets are installed outside a house with the shutoff valve extending into the heated house to prevent freezing. After each use, the water between the valve and outlet drains, provided the hose is disconnected, so water is not left to freeze.

Frost-proof Hydrants. Frost-proof hydrants make outdoor water service possible during cold weather without the danger of freezing. The shutoff valve is buried below the frost line. To avoid submerging it, which might result in contamination and back siphoning, the stop-and-waste valve must drain freely into a rock bed. These hydrants are sometimes prohibited by local or state health authorities.

A properly installed T&P valve will operate when either the temperature or the pressure becomes too high due to an interruption of the water supply or a faulty thermostat.

A tankless unit has a heating device that is activated by the flow of water when a hot water valve is opened. Once activated, the heater delivers a constant supply of hot water. The output of the heater, however, limits the rate of the heated water flow. Demand water heaters are available in propane (LP), natural gas, or electric models. They come in a variety of sizes for different applications, such as a whole-house water heater, a hot water source for a remote bathroom or hot tub, or as a boiler to provide hot water for a home heating system. They can also be used as a booster for dishwashers, washing machines, and a solar or wood-fired domestic hot water system [7].

Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Safety hazard information bulletin on the use of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe in above ground installations. Washington, DC: Occupational Safety and Health Administration; 1988. http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.htmlExternal.

After a flood that cost my homeowner’s insurance $30k a few years ago - a shut off system is not new to me. My previous one cost $$$ & worked great - except the manufacturer closed up shop & stopped supporting the proprietary app - making it useless.

Anyway, I did a lot of research and feel like I could be considered an armchair expert on these water auto shutoff type systems. Pros & cons of various manufacturers. Reviews. Costs. There are a 2 main types IMO: proprietary (all sensors/software/hardware same company and stuck using them for everything *** or, they do not make it clear if it will work with other equipment) and “build your own” based on IFTT type tech and some smart hub. I’m not including anything that doesn’t utilize smart phone control. That is just outdated.

Anyway, after doing the research - the EcoNet valve seemed like the best. First, whoever EcoNet is - they are right on it with answering questions, help, and information. Many people have said if you contact them with questions or concerns a response is very fast. I found this to be the case. The guy was quick and knew his product.

I use this valve as an auto leak shut off, but also to just turn the water off with my phone when I will be gone for a long time. I need something that is not flimsy & can cycle many times without issue or stressing the pipes. The last thing you want is some piece of junk that actually causes plumbing damage and a leak.

Also, I chose this valve because you don’t have to mess with the plumbing. I’m a person who can fix anything - but if for some reason the valve is defective or needs to be replaced - it’s just easier to not have to take pipes apart. EcoNet also has a bunch of videos on YouTube demoing their valve. People not confident in their product don’t do this. They also give you the option of an EcoNet plug and play system if you want that using a 3rd party app or no internet at all. A lot of options.

Anyway, the valve comes in like 2 days. Everything was there that was supposed to be there & it was well packed. Connection to SmartThings took 2 minutes. I’m starting this system with water sensors from various manufacturers that work with SmartThings based on price, availability, and what I want for different locations. If it’s natively supported by SmartThings - it’s easy to set up.

Installation of the valve was fairly easy. The thing is, if you have no mechanical aptitude & aren’t comfortable DIY’ing stuff - you could screw something up possibly. But, I’m just saying that because it does take some brains to look at your current valve and make sure you can install this with no interference & turning the correct way. I’m sure there are a myriad of shut off valves out there & there has to be at least one that this may not work with intuitively and theoretically could bend or damage something if you force it on and run it. But, that’s pretty much with anything you’re doing to your home - take your time, do your research, have the correct tools, & don’t break anything.

However, if you have some brains and don’t rush you’ll be fine. In my case, the “pins” on the valve interfered with a steel brace for the water pipe coming out of my concrete basement wall. So, if I just shut the valve before looking it would have hit the mount for the brace and likely bent something or damaged the valve. The solution was simple - just shorten the pin’s hollow steel supports a bit & mount them with the nuts on top (opposite) for clearance. I’m guessing this is a unique case - but if they included some shorter pins it wouldn’t be a bad idea, as I’m guessing not everyone would be willing to do this.

It took like 10 mins to do this. The clamp is a very strong type plastic - no flex. My only critique is you want the clamp & “valve on clamp” connections to be tight & they are Phillips head screws. I have Phillips bits and a ratchet, which worked very well. But, I think it would be easier with nuts and bolts, considering the average person will likely use a cheap screwdriver. Just how I would have done it, not an issue.

The point is, once you get this thing installed correctly it’s rock solid. There is no flexing or movement of the pipe whatsoever - another reason I avoided valves that use the pipe & not the valve for a brace. Another good thing is the pins on the valve are adjustable, allowing you to fine tune it from 100% open to 100% closed. Again, not plug and play - but end result is better.

EcoNet recommends changing this valve in SmartThings IDE from a valve to a switch; as they say switch will work locally if the internet is down - because “valve” setting works on the cloud. I choose not to do this because, IDE is saying the “valve” IS in local mode. However, my EcoLINK water/freeze sensor is “cloud”. Not sure if changing the valve to a switch would put the sensor on local mode - somehow I doubt it. I’m guessing it’s more of a function of the sensor. Maybe there was an update? Don’t know.

But I doubt the power would be out (internet down) & a pipe would burst at them same time; at least power outages are very uncommon for me. Also, if the power was out - the valve wouldn’t close anyway, because it’s not battery back up. I believe you could do a battery back up, but for me it doesn’t seem necessary. So far the day to day connection seems solid to the cloud. If it becomes an issue I’d explore this further.

As a valve - works flawlessly with SmartThings app. Basically you can open or close it with SmartThings app. Set up app notifications & text notifications if there is a leak & it will auto shut the valve off.

So, yes I’m going to give this valve 5 stars. I’m going to say so far it’s the best of its kind out there. There are cheaper valves out there, but if you do the research you will see most have some flaw or shortcoming. There are also more expensive ones - none with any clear benefit over the EcoNet valve that I can see & I doubt any have the manufacturer support this one does.

If I had any other critique- it would be that the power cord could be longer. I had to use an extension cord for now. I don’t know how long it is, but it seemed a little short as my valve and outlet are pretty close. Only other thing I can add is I’m wishing EcoNet sold sensors for SmartThings - it’s seems they sold the Samsung ones - but they may be off the market. They do sell sensors that work with a hub they come with; but it wasn’t clear to me if they will work with SmartThings. Also, they list a wired sensor as part of a kit - but does not seem to be available separately on their website.

Hopefully this review will help someone make a decision who is in the market for a water shutoff off valve. I think this is a great valve and the price is more than fair. Seems strong and robust & there is a lot of information out there on it if you seek it out.

A backwater valve (sometimes called a backflow or sewer backup valve) is a valve you can install on your sewer line and is designed to allow water or sewage to flow only one way—out of your house. Sudden heavy rainfall can overwhelm city sewer lines, causing water or sewage to flow back towards your home. A backwater valve prevents sewage from flowing backwards into your house during such events.

They can be installed in the initial new construction or retrofitted into existing homes. Installing during the initial construction is naturally much cheaper, costing around $500. To retrofit a backwater valve, a section of the home’s foundation needs to be removed to access the main sewer line. The cost to retrofit a backwater valve ranges from $2,000 to $5,000.

Backwater valves are required by some municipalities and recommended by others. Some municipalities offer subsidies to assist with the installation of backwater valves—check out the links at the end of this article.

The risk of water backup increases if there is a basement in your home, or if the ground floor is less than 30 cm above street level. If a new home has any fixtures located below street level, The National Plumbing Code requires a backwater valve.

Your home’s sewer system allows water and sewage to flow out of the house. A backwater valve stops water or sewage from flowing into your house should the main sewer line become overloaded.

Inside the valve is a small flap that is normally open, allowing water to exit your home and any sewer gases to vent. There is a small floatation device on each side of the flap. If water or sewage starts to flow backwards into the house, the floaters cause the flap to lift up and close, thus preventing anything from entering your home.

When you retrofit a backwater valve onto your existing home (as opposed to installing it during construction), you’ll need a plumbing permit from your municipality. During installation, a plumber will have to cut a hole in the concrete floor, usually near the floor drain. Then, they’ll dig down to the main sewer line, cut out a portion, and replace it with the new valve.

The valves often have a clear top so you can see if it is operating properly. There’s also a lid that you can remove for cleaning. Without a properly functioning backwater valve, sewage could come into the basement through a floor drain, sinks, tubs, and toilets.

Before you install a backwater valve in your home, talk to your municipal government to find out if any local permits are required, as well as to find out what sort of equipment they recommend.

When it comes time for installation, hire a licensed plumber. They can install the backwater valve and can also obtain any necessary building permits. Municipal governments sometimes maintain lists of pre-approved plumbers.

“People often forget this and cover them with flooring. This stops the ability for inspection and maintenance as well as losing access to the drains for clearing blockages if they occur. Drains can still block and cause a backup even with a backwater valve installed. Underground piping in the basement may require the expected installation location to change.”

Things can get stuck inside the valve, preventing it from closing. Sharp items moving through can also damage the valve. Proper, regular maintenance can catch these issues before there is a serious problem.

Backwater valves are usually easily accessible. They have a clear top, so you should be able to see if water is flowing freely or if anything is stuck. You’ll find plenty instructional videos to help you DIY the maintenance. Or, you can call an expert if the thought of sticking your hand in a sewage pipe is not particularly appealing. If you do attempt to clear a block on your own, be sure to follow all the instructions carefully—especially wearing gloves.

If everything is clear, and the city sewer backs up during a major rainstorm, your backwater valve will close, which is exactly what you want to happen.

When the valve is closed, water can’t flow out of your house either. There is a certain amount of storage space in your plumbing system to account for this. But, you may not want to shower and run your washing machine or dishwasher all at once during a major rainstorm or snowmelt event. Since none of your wastewater will be able to escape with the backwater valve closed, you could wind up flooding your own house.

Safety should always important when using a water heater at your home. Ensure that the water heater is able to relieve both the water temperature and pressure at a given point to avoid damage and possible injury.

The Pressure Relief Valve is similar to an emergency stop valve. It is designed to offer an escape route for water from the heater if the temperatures rise beyond a set point allowing an unsafe temperature or increased pressure. The increased water pressure opens the pressure relief valve and water can escape to the exterior. This action immediately lowers the pressure inside the water heater tank.

Although this shouldn’t happen, it can. If there is a problem with the heater this is its safety valve to protect the home and the homeowner. The heater should auto-adjust itself back to normal after the extra pressure (and water) escapes.

A licensed plumber should also check and replace an ordinary gate valve on the water supply pipe with a lever-handle ball valve. The quarter-turn ball valves are more durable and are much faster to completely turn the water off.

If this is a new water heater, the plumber should also review how the appliance works and provide the water heater brochure, information and warranty cards to the homeowner. This will help ensure that the homeowner has a basic understanding of how to quickly turn the water heater on and off without a plumber needing to come out for minor problems.

A water backup and sump pump overflow endorsement on your homeowners or renters insurance provides added protection from costly water damage resulting from backed up drains or failed sump pumps.

Homeowners insurance does not typically cover water backup damage. Water backup and sump pump overflow coverage is an optional coverage that must be added on to a homeowners policy.

Whether it’s in pipes or under the ground, your property is surrounded by water. Water damage — resulting from backed up drains or failed pumps — is one of the most common homeowners insurance claims. Water damage is the third most costly claim behind fire and liability lawsuits, according to the Insurance Information Institute. Because water damage incidents like these are often not covered by a home policy, it’s important to make sure you are protected with a water backup endorsement. Talk to your independent insurance agent about what water backup endorsement limits suit your needs.