hot water heater safety valve leaking free sample

Is your water heater pressure relief valve leaking? What is the cause, and what can you do to fix it? If you’re asking any of these questions, you’re in the right place. Read on to learn all you need to know to fix the problem.

There are some common reasons why your water heater pressure relief valve might leak. One is excessively high temperatures in the water tank. Either a gas burner or electricity heats the water inside the tank, and the pressure relief valve is a safety mechanism to make sure the tank doesn’t overheat.

When water is heated, thermal expansion causes pressure to build up inside of the water tank. If the temperature gets too high, the valve will open up and drain out some of the hot water, replacing it with cooler water to lower the temperature.

This is a sign that the valve is working correctly and occasional leaking is normal.Temperatures inside the water tank rangefrom 120 to 140 degrees.The pressure will be released if the temperature inside the tank gets to about 210 degrees and 150 psi (pounds per square inch).

Another possible cause of leaks is the valve not being appropriately sealed at the point where it connects to the water heater. Another potential issue is that the valve itself is faulty. For example, if the seal is damaged or the valve sticks to the open position.

If the water heater pressure relief valve is truly damaged and is causing the leakage, why is it a good idea to fix it right away?The high-pressure buildup could cause the tank to rupture or explode.

What are some of the signs that your water heater pressure relief valve is leaking?No water pressure. Just as with low or fluctuating water pressure, no pressure is a sign that something may be wrong with your pressure relief valve.

Loud noises coming from inside the walls.If you hear loud banging or humming noises inside your walls, this may be a sign that your pressure relief valve is leaking. To make sure the sound is coming from the valve, go close to it and see if the sounds become louder.

What to Do When You Find a LeakAssess the leak. Find out whether or not the leak is from normal pressure release or a bad valve. Replace the valve if needed.

Do a valve test to see if the pressure relief valve is functioning properly. If a lousy valve causes the leak, contact a licensed plumber to replace the valve if you don’t have the skills to do it yourself.

Check the frequency of the leaks. If you often have leaks due to the valve opening. You may have unsafe pressure levels, and your water tank is at risk of rupturing or exploding.

Check the valve opening to make sure it can close properly. Minerals in the water may become encrusted on the valve opening over time. If the valve is leaking because it is stuck in the open position, open and close the valve a few times quickly to get it unstuck. If the valve still sticks, you know that you need to replace it.

Check the pressure gauge. If the valve has no pressure, it could be due to a broken spring or the valve not fitting correctly. Controlling the pressure is a vital function of the valve, and replacement is a must.

If the leakage is severe, immediately turn off the water heater. If your water heater uses gas, locate the gas line, which is usually near the water heater. Turn the gas valve clockwise until the gas is entirely off.

If your water heater is powered by electricity, locate the appropriate switch in your breaker box and set it to “off.”Next, turn off the water supply to stop more water from building up in the tank.

Use caution with a leaky tank, as the water is hot and could cause burns and serious injury.Replacing a leaking water heater pressure relief valve can be a DIY project, depending on the cause of the leak.

The valves are inexpensive, and you can do a quick fixin a few simple steps:Turn off the water heater breaker (allow 24-48 hours for the water to cool).

If the water heater pressure relief valve is often open and leaking, there could be an issue with your water heater. If your water heater is constantly at a high temperature, there is a high-pressure buildup.

If your water heater pressure relief valve is leaking, there’s no need to panic. A simple replacement of the valve can easily fix the issue. Testing your valve regularly can prevent costly repairs in the future.

Pay close attention to the frequency and the level of the leaks so that you know when it’s time to call a professional. Test valves regularly and replace them when necessary to avoid costly repairs in the future.

Replacing a pressure relief valve is far cheaper than repairing one after something has gone wrong. CPV Manufacturing recommends replacing your pressure relief valve every 4-5 years, but you also need to factor in some other things.Location – Certain climates, particularly desert climates, can be hard on pressure relief valve seals. Heat and dryness can cause the seals to crack, so users need to replace them more frequently.

Debris in your water – Debris in your water may be a sign of blockage or corrosion in the valve. If the pipes undergo a thorough cleaning process and the debris remains, it’s time to replace the valve.

Age of the valve – The spring mechanism in the valve loses tension as the valve ages. This is why it’s essential to test your valve about every six months and replace the valve every 4-5 years.

Frequency of use – If your water heater pressure release valve is in high use, it may need to be replaced more frequently due to the wear and tear caused by this usage.

Water quality – Minerals build up on the water heater pressure relief valve over time. If you live in an area with hard water, mineral deposits may build up quicker. Mineral buildup on the valve can cause the valve to stick. If it is stuck in the open position, it will leak. If it is stuck in the closed position, it will not open when pressure release is needed, risking pressure buildup in the water tank.

Water relief pressure valves are usually located on the side or top of your water heater. The valve connects to a discharge tube that is made from either plastic or metal.

Fluctuating, low, or no water pressure are signs that the valve is leaking. Check your valve if you notice any unusual changes in your water pressure.

Lift the lever on the top of the valve to verify that the hot water is being expelled from the overflow tube. Quickly release the lever, and if it doesn’t spring back into place quickly, it means that you will need to replace the valve.

Use caution when testing your valve to prevent hot water from being slashed on you. Some plumbers recommend testing the valve every six months, while others recommend testing it every two years.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

If you’ve been having issues with your water heater recently, you might find that you’re paying high energy bills, not getting access to hot water when you want it, or your water pressure is low.

Fortunately, by understanding how relief valves work, you can solve whatever problem you’re having with the one on your water heater. In this article, we’ll review everything you should know about this valve.

A water heater pressure relief valve, also referred to as a T&P valve, pressure relief valve, or water heater temperature valve is a safety feature that you can find on any water heater. The reason it’s there is to keep you safe in case the water pressure is too high.

Without this safety feature, your water heater could end up breaking. You could potentially end up with burns if the high water pressure is dangerously high.

This valve also ensures that there aren’t any leaks in your water heater, which would lead to low water pressure when you want to use it to wash the dishes or take a shower.

The water heater pressure relief valve is in place so that it can relieve excess pressure and temperature in a water heater if either of these is too high. Because this everyday appliance is a closed system, thermal expansion occurs in water heaters.

Here’s how it works. Whether your water heater is heated by electric elements or a gas burner, both the metal tank and the water inside expand when the hot water temperature is somewhere between 120 and 140 degrees.

It’s totally normal for the water and water heater to expand to a certain extend. After all, this is what naturally happens when the temperature rises.

However, when the temperature is 210 degrees—or the pressure is 150 pounds per inch (psi)—this is far too much pressure and heat in the water heater. If it’s the case, you should change your hot water heater temperature.

If your water heater pressure relief valve is working, this is when it will open. This releases steam and hot water from the discharge tube, making your water heater operate safely again.

On the micro-level, the functioning of this valve works like this. The relief valve itself has been set up by a professional or pre-designed to open when the temperature or pressure reaches a dangerous level.

When functioning properly, it will open as it’s designed to when the levels of heat or pressure are high. The liquid comes out through this auxiliary route, relieving the heat and pressure within the water tank.

This specific state that the water heater is in is called the “blowdown.” Usually, the “blowdown” is defined by professionals (and is used in the design or set up of the valve) as a specific pressure percentage.

The “blowdown” is usually somewhere between 2 and 20%. Once the pressure has reached the “blowdown” amount, the pressure relief valve will close again so that you can use the water heater as intended.

If you’ve been noticing any issues with your water heater pressure relief valve, then you need to know where it is on your water heater. Usually, you can find it on the top or side of this appliance. It’s a valve that’s connected to a plastic or metal discharge tube that points up.

The water heater pressure is already installed when you receive your water heater (or buy a home that has one already). It’s actually welded onto the tank; you’ll see a threaded inlet where it is.

This is for safety reasons. Everything has been done according to standards that have been mandated by plumbing codes. So if you’re having any issues with the valve, you’ll have to call a professional to have it fixed.

This said, if you’re only having issues with the discharge tube, this is easy to replace. You won’t have to drain or power down your water heater, and you can deal with it yourself.

This said, considering that there might be other issues causing discharge tube problems—issues connected to high water pressure or temperature—it’s safest to have a professional deal with this too.

If you suspect there’s a problem with your water heater pressure relief valve, you can do a test. This is actually good idea if you don’t have any problems at all, as this type of maintenance will protect your water heater—and yourself.

To get started, identify where the relief valve shut off is. Usually, you can find it upon the cold water feed, which is on top of the water tank, on the right side where the inlet is.

Finally, release the level so that it quickly snaps into the original position. If it doesn’t snap quickly into this original position, then your water heater valve isn’t working and needs to be replaced.

When your water heater pressure relief valve isn’t functioning properly, it’s usually for one of to two reasons. It either sticks so that it doesn’t properly open or close, or it has a leak, which means that it’s continually dripping, lowering your water pressure.

If your valve is sticky, then it becomes stuck in a closed (downward) or open (extended position). If it’s closed, then the valve won’t be able to relieve the heat or pressure that builds up in the closed water heater system. There could be a rupture as a result.

Sometimes, you can easily fix this problem by opening and closing the valve lever a few times. However, if it continues to stick, then you’ll need to replace it.

Your water heater is leaking? Make sure that it doesn’t come from the valve before replacing it. If your pressure relief valve is leaking, then this maybe because it isn’t seated properly in the tank’s threaded opening. This is quite a common issue if you’ve recently replaced your old valve with a new one. To fix this issue with this cause, you have to take several steps.

If the lever snaps into its original position and it’s still leaking, you need to turn off the gas valve by turning it to the off position. Then, shut the water off so you can replace the valve safely.

If a water pressure issue is what is causing the water heater pressure relief valve to not work, then it might be dangerous for you to change the valve yourself. Generally speaking, it’s a good idea to hire a professional to protect yourself.

Now that we’ve reviewed everything you should know about a water heater pressure relief valve you might have realized that you need to replace your water heater valve. However, to be as safe as possible, you want to hire a professional.

A common sight in a hydronic boiler room is water dripping from the discharge pipe of the boiler relief valve. While it may appear to be inconsequential, it could cause extensive damage to the heating system.

Some boiler rooms have a bucket under the relief valve discharge pipe to mask the problem. The following are some suggestions if you would like to resolve the problem.

Leaking water from a sealed hydronic system can reduce the life of the system by introducing untreated makeup water containing oxygen and solids to the system. The oxygen can attack and pit the boiler and piping, causing corrosion and leaks.

The solids can affect the efficiency and safety of the system. Solids form scale on the hottest surfaces in the boiler lowering the heat transfer ability and efficiency of the system. A leaking relief valve can allow solids to form on the seat of the relief valve increasing the rate of the leak.

A worse situation occurs when the solids form on the spring side of the relief valve as it could alter the opening pressure. A relief valve was a contributing factor in a fatal boiler accident as scale formed on the relief valve, prohibiting it from opening properly.

The relief valve, rated for 30 psig, was tested after the accident and did not open until the pressure reached 1,500 psig. Diagnosing the cause of the leaking relief valve is time-consuming and sometimes frustrating. I like to explain this to the customer to prepare them when the diagnosis and repair may take more than one visit.

The first thing I check is the system pressure. Most hydronic boilers have a gauge called a tridicator, or PTA (pressure, temperature, altitude) gauge. How much pressure do we need for the system? Each pound of system pressure will raise water 2.3 feet. The way to calculate how much pressure you need is to determine the height of the tallest radiator and divide the height by 2.3.

For example, we have a radiator on the sixth floor, and the elevation is 60 feet high. When you divide the height (60 feet) by 2.3, we get 26.09 pounds. We should add 3 to 4 pounds to that number to allow for better air removal and to limit the chance of the hot water flashing to steam. This takes our normal system pressure to 29-30 psig.

The next step is to verify the pressure rating of the relief valve. The pressure rating of the relief valve should be at least 10 psig higher than the operating pressure of the system but less than the maximum allowable working pressure (MAWP) of the boiler. Many hydronic boilers are shipped with a 30 psig relief valve from the factory. In this example, the relief valve should be at 40 psig or higher. If the system pressure is 30 psig and the relief valve, rated for 40 psig, is leaking, the relief valve is most likely defective.

Another troubleshooting task I perform is watching the tridicator (or PTA gauge) while the boiler is firing and heating the water. When water is heated from 65° F to 180°, the water volume expands by 3%. If the pressure gauge starts creeping up as the water heats, I would suspect a flooded compression tank or plugged piping to the compression tank.

In some instances, it may take several days for the pressure to build and open the relief valve and these are the most difficult to troubleshoot. The first place I would look is the compression tank. If the tank is flooded, there are a couple of reasons.

The most common causes are leaking gauge glass fittings above the water line of the tank, excessive system pressure, undersized tank, or the tank has a leak above the water line. If the system has been operating correctly for years, I would be hesitant to believe the tank is undersized.

A pinhole leak on top of the tank may be impossible to find and one of the ways to test the integrity of the tank is to valve off the water feeder to the system and check the tank in a few days to see if it flooded. If the tank is flooded, you might have to replace the tank.

Another culprit that can cause the pressure to rise and open the relief valve is if the boiler has an indirect water which uses the boiler water to heat the domestic water using a water to water heat exchanger. A leaking heat exchanger could allow the higher city water pressure to enter the space heating side and increase the system pressure. To test this idea, shut the valves from the domestic water side and see if the pressure still rises.

The last item to check is the pressure-reducing valve (PRV). This is a brass valve with an adjustment screw. Some models have a quick-fill feature, which allows you to pull a lever and quickly fill the system. A stethoscope is sometimes used to trouble shoot the PRV to detect if water is leaking through the valve.

Another way to test for leaking is to feel the downstream pipe and see if it is cold. In many instances, the water is fed slowly and difficult to detect. Another way to test to see if the PRV is leaking through is to shut off the valves on the feed water pipe and see if the pressure still rises. If it does, I will suspect the piping to the compression tank is restricted or the tank is flooded. If the pressure does not rise, it could be the pressure reducing valve.

POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about heating boiler or water heater (water cylinder) pressure/temperature relief valves or TP valves on all types of water heating appliances

This article series explains the requirement for temperature and pressure relief valves on water heaters, calorifers, geyers, or hot water cylinders, and we give relief valve installation, inspection, diagnosis and repair procedures for these important safety devices.

You can easily verify the TPR valve on your 40 gallon water heater by looking at the information on the relief valve data tag and comparing that with the INPUT BTUH rating of your water heater.

Great info here, but I have an ongoing problem. On a fairly new electric hot water heater tank (2 years) I replaced the relief valve because it was leaking and occasionally discharging. However the new relief valve did not correct the problem, still leaks constantly. So, I replaced both thermostats thinking one or the other was not shutting off the heating elements and it was over heating and discharging. Still, it drips out the relief line.

If your incoming water pressure is a bit high, or if there is a water hammer oroblem you may need an expansion tank, else the valve may need replacement.

Water heater overflow pipe constantly dripping so I tested the TRV and water gushed out of pipe like I turned on a faucet. So I let go of it. I know that is not normal.

The pipe is hot so I checked my heat settings and turned it to 120 degrees ) it was a little above that ) It is still constantly dripping (trickle not drip drop). Suggestions?

I have problem of my apartment have 2 Ariston 40ltr water heater.but I got problem my only one water heater pressure relief valve water dripping.my plumber change 2times of pressure relief valve but still same problem when I on my water heater it"s dropping after few minutes. How I solve this problem?

On some water heaters the shorter stem is needed because given the TPR valve mounting position, such as a side-mount TPR valve, the long stem might touch an internal part of the heater such as a center flue or a dip tube.

When the water heater (or in other countries cylinder or calorifer or geyser) is cold the pressure inside it should be the same as incoming building water pressure - in your case 70 psi.

If the expanding water were in an "open" system that expansion would just push back into the cold water pipes and pressure wouldn"t increase. But where there are check valves or other obstructions in the piping system, pressure can build rapidly as water is heated.

A domestic water heater is typically designed for up to 150 psi working pressure. At higher pressures we expect the temperature/pressure relief valve to open to relieve pressure.

But in some homes the water heater pressure just from thermal expansion causes dripping at the TPR valve (an unsafe condition); in that case, if all else is normal, yes it makes sense to add a thermal expansion tank to the water heating system.

If my residential pressure is 70 psi which of the pressure inside my hot water heater tank be? It’s fluctuating from 140 psi to as low as 45. I think the expansion tank is my next replacement of course. But what should the pressure in the tank normally be in relation to the system pressure?

I"m just your text I really don"t have an intelligent guess about why the pressure or temperature relief valve is discharging but it"s definitely a safety concern.

How do I make the heater itself be unsafe now, but even if the problem we"re simply a leaky valve itself that leak can lead to clogging which in turn can cause the valve to fail to open in an emergency. The result of that would be a dangerous explosion of a water heater

I just happen to notice water coming out of a pvc pipe that is located coming out of the house. Our hot water heater is located on the 2nd floor and have come to the conclusion that the TPR valve engaged itself. I understand that this works because either the temp. or the press. became too much and this is the safety feature at work.

My question is, why now? We haven"t increased the temp. of the water, and its not what I would consider cold outside, let alone, this is upstairs in a climate controlled area. Is this an indication that something is wrong, or is it possible the last time I increased the temp. on the water heater, it has been discharging all this time and I just never was outside when it did it?

Watch out: What you describe is improper water heater operation and is extremely dangerous, risking a catastrophic BLEVE EXPLOSION. inspectapedia.com/plumbing/BLEVE-Explosions.php

When a water heater is overheating the increase in pressure or temperature or both cause spillage of water at the temperature and pressure relief valve. The purpose of the relief valve, also called TPR valve (temperature, pressure relief) is specifically to prevent over-pressure from bursting or exploding the water heater tank. Working properly, then, the TPR valve is a critical safety device.

When that condition (overheating, TPR spilling) is permitted to continue for some time, deposits of minerals, silt, debris from the hot water moving through the TPR valve mouth, can ultimately clog the relief valve.

If a relief valve clogs it can fail to open in response to over-temperature or over-pressure. The result can be an exploding water tank with great force and damage and risk of injury or worse.

If the heater has not been properly repaired already, it should be turned OFF IMMEDIATELY and you should have the heater or its controls repaired by a qualfied plumber.

We have a huge water bill. We had plumber our who found no leaks with the water heater but did find it was massively over heating which meant the tempature gage was broken.

On most water heaters the tapping for hot, cold, dip tube and relief valve are marked by a label or a stamping into the steel. If you don"t see that we need to start with the manual which means you need the brand and model

Watch out: do not install a T&P valve at a more-remote spot like downstream on the hot water piping, and do not modify the relief valve in any way - doing so is unsafe.

I had my hot water heater pressure relief due to a constant discharge of water. The plumber said the seat had worn over time allowing water to bypass. A few days later...leaking again.

Checked the pressure on the water line closest to the meter and got a reading of 80 psi. Installed a pressure regulator set it at 60 and one day later relief still has a intermittent discharge, the water thermostat on the heater is set to normal and I pulled some hot water directly form the heater and it tested at 120 degrees.

It is the case however that when someone messes with a TP valve it can open and then fail to shut - e.g. if debris then enters the valve seat or if its gasket blows out at that time.

You may need a hot water heater expansion tank. If the incoming water pressure is within normal ranges (80 is a bit high - about 10 psi over what I"d recommend but alone not likely to explain the issue you are having), and if the water heater temperatures are within normal range (where you tested is of course at a lower point than in the heater at the temperature sensor but 120 is well below the opening temp of around boiling) then the problem is elsewhere.

I tried to open the pressure relief valve on my water heater and It won"t open by my hand and I don"t want to use a wrench or pliers to force it. How should I get it open. It has been 7 or 8 years since it was installed.

Watch out: IF the test lever is stuck this is an important discovery, as it quite possibly means that the valve opening mechanism is stuck as well - that would be very dangerous - should an overpressure occur and the valve fail to open as it should the water heater becomes a rocket or a bomb.

My water heater is making a loud (very loud) whistling noise- my water heater normally makes loud banging noises and loud gurgles and popping sounds- I called maint- they said it is "normal"

- the water heater is 12 yrs old and as he puts it "everyone"s does that" - but the last time it whistled- we ended up having no hot water and they had to replace the element.

Will the gas leak and will the water leak out of the tank in the next 24 hours? I have kids and animals in the room with the water heater. It should be outside like most apts- but they have it in the bedroom and it"s not safe.

PS- now there is NO noise coming from the water heater- and there is always some type of noise - so now it really makes me nervous and it"s 12 am. I"m afraid to take a shower in the morning for fear of the water tank blowing up.

With a hot water system located inside a cupboard what do you do with the "drip drip drip" coming with pressure relief? Is it simply dropping onto carpet?

Watch out: FIRST you are describing an UNSAFE CONDITION - a dripping relief valve ultimately clogs and stops dripping - at which point it also is no longer protecting the building from an exploding water heater.

So the cause of the trouble needs to be diagnosed: a leaky TP valve, overpressure in the system, overheating at the water heater, or water hammer or some other cause.

Do NOT simply route the dripping valve to a disposal location that is no longer visible or in the future the dangerous condition might remain undetected. (search InspectApedia.com for TUNDISH to read about a solution).

What is the minimum clearance distance that is required from the bottom of the countertop to allow the temperature relief valve adequate clearance? Is there a code spec for this?

Julie a look at installation details for TP valves on water heaters didn"t come up with an over-head clearance, though some common sense would indicate you"d need enough space for the test lever to be operated AND enough space to remove and replace the valve when needed.

Since a top-mounted TP valve has a temperature sensing stem that protrudes downwards into the water heater the removal space will be more than you think

On a small water heater (cylinder) the extension of the sensor is about 3" while on larger water heater cylinders that added length could be as mmuch as 9" below the inlet. Adding that 9" of sensor to the TP valve body and lever height (anywhere from 5 5/8" to 9 1/4") means the minimum (for the smallest valve size) valve total length is about 9" and the larger valve could be much larger.

Now we can slightly tip a valve to get it out of the heater, buyt - I"d like to see 12" or more to give both working space and space to remove the valve.

My electric water heater experiencing too much water discharge into the discharge tube. I called in a plumber and he adjusted the control with his tools which stopped this bypass problem for a few weeks. I am not sure if this is due to problem with the p-trap valve or tube.

In general the pressure/temperature relief valve on any water heater will open at a pressure low enough to protect the tank from a BLEVE explosion (discussed above) AND/OR at an abnormally high temperature (e.g. over 210F) but the TP valve also must be sized to be capable of dumping hot water and/or steam fast enough to exceed the BTU input rate of the heating appliance.

There should be a tapping on the upper side of the heater intended to accept a pressure/temperature relief valve. Be sure to install a valve with the proper capacity matched to the unit"s input BTUH.

I"d ask for help from a plumber to find the tapping and install a TP valve. You may need to remove insulation to expose the tapping and plug in that threaded opening.

We came home to a t&P valve violently discharging, called Rheem they advised to buy new valve and replace--gave us no instructions-- We just slapped a new one on turned the cold water back on and then immediately followed turning back on the hot water heater the new valve discharged a gushing stream.

Called Rheem again and they said oh no there are steps that must be followed, so we drained the hot water heater and started "Fresh" and followed the steps to a "T".

But make a check of the system water pressure to see its level is abnormally high - if water pressure is above the TP valve pressure (or if you bought the wrong type of TP valve) that could be the trouble.

The system you describe is unsafe and should be turned off. We can"t know if the problem is a leaky T&P valve or a problem with the water heater and overheating.

No that"s dangerous and prohibited. Up-piped TPR discharge piping can hold water in the line causing the valve operating mechanism to clog with minerals or debris. The risk is a BLEVE EXPLOSION.

Hi My hot water system is solar on roof with a 300 lt tank the tank is dumping its full content about the same time everyday the water is coming from the copper pipe on the wall

In a photo above on this page you can see a flexible 3/4" copper tube used in the routing of the discharge of a TP valve from the top of a water heater. No one called out the use of that piping material itself as a hazard, but there can be hazards nonetheless depending on how that tube is routed - such as to a hidden location without a Tundish or routed "up" from the TP valve itself.

So ... it depends. If for example someone installed a flexible line to replace a straight downtube running down the side of a water heater from the TP valve, I"d be worried that some fool would come along and bend the tubing "up" - as nothing prevents them from doing so.

SO if I I were a building inspector given final authority I"d object to that installation. But I might not object to use of the same tubing connecting properly beween a valve"s discharge opening and a proper destination.

Discharge line must be same size as valve outlet, be pitched down for free draining, and have no shut-off valve or obstructions throughout its entire length.

2. it is not permissible to terminate a TPR valve discharge line with a threaded fitting - the reasoning is that it"s too easy for someone to screw a cap onto a dripping line, leading ultimately to a BLEVE explosion.

I am in the middle od disputing a denied claim with a Home Warranty company who is trying to tell me thet the water heater does not operate properly with the piping being pointed toward the floor.

So my question is: does the piping on the pressure relief valve effect the operation of the water heater. Is there somewhere that documents that although this may be a safety issue, the water heater still will function.

You"ll see this in the valve installation instructions dpfrom the manufacturer as well as in researched articles found here. Pointing a tp valve up is improper, risks clogging, failure, and a catastrophic BLEVE explosion.

If your insurance company says the valve should not point down you are welcome to quote me as observing that they are dead wrong and at are risking killing someone.

I have a friend who recently switched from well to city water, and now her TP relief valve is leaking. she says it starts before it reaches temperature. she has already replaced the valve. and she didn"t vent the air the first time she filled the tank.

I suspect either she needs a pressure regulator from the city water pressure, or, and I don"t know if this is possible, but its an electric water heater and because it wasn"t vented when she filled the tank an air pocket could have let the top element burn out, and it is possibly creating electrolysis offgasses causing a pressure buildup.

Interesting thoughts, Gary. I"ve not considered troubles with burning out an upper electrode when re-filling an empty water tank. It"d be easy enough to test. See

It would be no surprise if higher city water pressure was causing a water hammer problem OR an over-pressure problem that was causing the TP valve to leak.

I have a friend who recently switched from well to city water, and now her TP relief valve is leaking. she says it starts before it reaches temperature. she has already replaced the valve. and she didn"t vent the air the first time she filled the tank.

I suspect either she needs a pressure regulator from the city water pressure, or, and I don"t know if this is possible, but its an electric water heater and because it wasn"t vented when she filled the tank an air pocket could have let the top element burn out, and it is possibly creating electrolysis offgasses causing a pressure buildup.

My first thought was that incoming city water pressure may be higher than what the well water system delivered, and that perhaps the pressure regulator on the city water supply is not properly adjusted. Start by testing the building water pressure to see what youv"e got. Higher than 70 psi is likely to cause leak trouble.

It would be no surprise if higher city water pressure was causing a water hammer problem OR an over-pressure problem that was causing the TP valve to leak.

water heater relive valve on side of water heater needs to be put on top of water heater so it flows down is it hard to change it to the top of the heater so it flows down the out side to the out side of the wall

3. IF the valve is taken out through a wall and/or to a location not readily visible by building occupants, in order to know if the valve is leaking (and thus that a dangerous condition exists) install a Tundish fitting (Search InspectApedia for "tundish" to read details).

Electric water heater in our rental, the bottom left of the rim has raised 1/4". Glue/insulation from inside is showing. I"d like to test the valve but a plumber was here in October and said it worked. Yesterday they sent a handyman when I complained of the "shift", he"s says it"s okay. What do I do?

Can a handheld shower head, with shut off valve, cause temperature release valve on water heater to open? I have a leaking temperature release valve and I think it"s due to when we shut off the shower head, to save water, the pressure in the lines is getting pushed to the water heater and the release valve is opening. Is this possible, and if so, how to fix? We would like to continue to use the shower head. Install a expansion tank?

In my OPINION, probably not. Though water hammer (that can be caused by some plumbing controls, valves, faucets) can cause the TPR valve to open, leak, or drip. And a combination of water hammer and high building water pressure increases that leak risk.

My wife and I have never heard the water hammer noise when we"ve closed the shower head. We hear a hissing sound, thought it was pressure having a way to escape. We"ve recently bought this house and the water heater is approximately 5 years old.

The TPR valve looks like it was replaced at the same time, being with the research that I"ve already done, the TPR valve should be replaced with the new water heater.

Both thermostats are set at 125 degrees. In your opinion, what could be causing the TPR valve to open? Could the valve already be worn out, faulty, or should I have someone come and look at it and see if its just the layout of my plumbing?

Where are you hearing the hissing. If it is right at the water heater that may be normal; Particularly some electric water heaters will hiss as the element is heating up incoming cold water, or scale in the heater may cause hissing as well as rumbling or other noises in the heater as it heats water.

There should be no discharge from the TP relief valve. If there is a discharge of water (or rarely, air) then either the valve is bad or the system is at an unsafe temperature or pressure.

Compare the rating of your TPR valve to the set temp of your heater; you could perhaps also measure water pressure there, attaching a portable pressure gauge to the heater drain valve. ( inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pressure_Measure.php )

... thanks for your input. To elaborate on the hissing sound; that sound comes out of our shower head while the shower is running (showering). We control the water pressure coming out of our shower head by the shower shut off valve.

Thought: When we moved into this house we, my Wife and I, went to use the sink in the kitchen and I had to turn the cold shut off valve down a little, not all the way, to control the amount of water pressure coming out of the faucet; just like we do with our shower. With the cold water shut off valve completely open, water comes out with a lot of force.

Could this be a clue to the TPR? That the water pressure coming from the main line coming into the house is too high? Isn"t there a pressure control valve/monitor on the main line coming into the house?

If this is most probable to answer the TPR valve problem, do I need to have the pressure control valve/monitor looked at, or install an expansion tank?

Indeed shower head noise is related to pressure and flow rate through the device. Some shower heads mix air or use other flow restricting designs to reduce water usage while giving a strong spray. I"d try changing the shower head to see if the noise changes.

Start by checking the building water pressure and pressure regulator device(s). If your pressure is over about 70 psi that"s a bit high and not just noise but leaks can be an issue.

I was doing research on water pressure gauges, completely coincidental that, that was your suggestion, and during one of the videos the instructor stated that your TPR valve will leak if your water pressure is too high. So I went to Lowes bought me a water pressure gauge.

And what did I read...110 PSI. Did a functions test on my water pressure reducing valve and noted no difference. Replacement of the water reducing valve will hopefully fix the problem. Thought you would like an update. Thanks again for your help.

we discuss the thermal expansion of water - pressure increases a bit as we heat up water in a closed system. (That"s why some hot water systems include an expansion tank). "Typically the pressure/temperature relief valves on domestic water heaters are set to open at 100, 125, or 150 psi (6.9, 8.61, or 10.34 bar)."

So with a starting pressure of 110 psi, it"d be not a surprise if the water heater TPR was leaking. Take a look at the label on your TPR valve on your water heater and let me know the brand, model, and its operating pressure and temperature range.

And yeah, if you cannot successfully lower the incoming water pressure to say 70 psi, I"d replace the pressure regulator OR - at some buildings it"s necessary to install two stages of water pressure regulators to handle very high incoming pressure.

My water heater was got replaced 6 months ago. Since then whenever the hot water gets turned on, there is a intermittent band sound occurs. It only happens when hot water turns on.

Watch out: banging pipes due to water hammer can also cause the water heater"s temperature/pressure relief valve to discharge or leak. Over time that could become unsafe.

Village inspector for pending home purchase said "blow off valve on hot water heater is required to be six inxhes from the floor." But arent these valves pre-installed into the heater? How can I raise or lower it???

No, the valve, properly called a temperature/pressure relief valve, is installed in a tapping on the water heater tank, typically near or on the tank top where water is hottest.

But yes, the TPR valve must have a discharge tube that terminates close to the floor or at an approved location to reduce risk of scalding someone if the valve opens.

David, if the washer was an internal part in the TP valve, while the part might be replaceable (some valves can be disassembled) I"d just replace the whole valve. It"s a safer course. I once made an emergency midnight repair by cutting a new washer out of a piece of tupperware

- so that the house could have heat until the next day when we could pick up a replacement valve. But nobody would be willing to bet the lives of building occupants on a modified relief valve. We put in a new valve the next morning.

My tankless water heater randomly shoots out water like a hose would the TMP valve was replaced-plumber is saying pressure from the street is too high and we should install a PRV to control water pressure and resolve issue-Could there be any other issues?

If street pressure is too high the TPR valve will indeed be likely to spill water as it heats up; this is an unsafe situation for several reasons, risking at the very worst blowing up the system if the repeatedly-spilling valve becomes clogged.

Check the incoming water pressure and compare that with the pressure range your heater manufacturer says they can handle as well as comparing it with the operating pressure of the TPR valve. You may need to install a pressure regulator at the point at which water enters the home.

I have a gas water heater pressure/temperature valve that needs to be replaced. Have you ever drained the water inside the water heater through the pressure/temperature relief valve as far as possible, then remove the valve for a quick change with a new one. I expect some water to run out during the valve replacement.

The water heater has a bottom plastic drain valve, and I would rather not go there to drain the water down, knowing the calcium deposits in the bottom could get stir up causing added problems, not to mention the plugging up of that bottom drain valve, possibly getting into the hot water piping running to the sink faucets on startup.

Gary the TPR valve will only drain off the water down to the valve mounting tapping; That"s close to enough though you can expect a bit of spillage when you remove the old valve.

I think you meant water leaks out, right Mike? It may be possible to repair this leak - IF the tapping into which the relief valve is screwed is not badly corroded. You"d need to drain the tank below the level of the tapping, remove the valve, clean the treads, and using pipe dope or teflon tape, re-make the connection using a new TPR valve (to be safest).

I want to increase water pressure from my boiler to get heat to more baseboard heaters. The boiler recommends 30 lbs relief valve. Should I change it to 45 lb

My question is my new water heater has a side mounted t&p line that is located on the side of the tank and on the opposite side of where the piping stubs out of the wall for discharge. What do I do in this situation?

Watch out: never pipe a relief valve discharge tube "up" from the relief valve - doing so risks BLEVE EXPLOSIONS from a clogged valve. You"ll need to make a new side wall discharge to a location that is always visible.

I just replaced my water heater (electric) and it is was very cold in the attic about 44 degrees. Water fill was very cold as well. No leaks at fill up and run to get air out of the tank / lines.

Applied the electric and in a few minutes as the tank heated I got some leaks through the T&P valve. I opened and closed the valve a couple of times. After about 30 to 45 minutes it no longer seems to be leaking. Is this normal on a brand new water heater?

Not normal, no, that is, as long as your building water pressure was at normal limits. Perhaps the valve was not properly seated. For safety I"d prefer to replace the valve as I"m not sure what it might do in the future.

And it is unsafe because eventually the leak can lead to a clogged valve which then could lead to an exploded heater. However it is normal for a little water to drip out of the discharge tube for a moment or two after testing.

In a domestic (North American) water supply system, to the best of my knowlege there is nothing to prevent the expanding water/pressure from the hot water heater from just backing up into the supply plumbing and hence the water pressure in the hot water heater would NEVER exceed the supply pressure.

Continue reading at RELIEF VALVE, WATER HEATER - topic home, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

RELIEF VALVE, WATER HEATER DIAGNOSTIC FAQs at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

"Residential Gas and Electric Water Heaters: Service Handbook", [PDF], A.O. Smith Water Products Company, 5621 W. 115th St., Alsip IL 60803 USA, Tel: 1-800-433-2545, Website: www.hotwater.com, Email: www.hotwater.com/parts, retrieved 15 March 2015, orginal source: : http://www.hotwater.com/lit/training/320991-000.pdf

This handbook provides service information for residential gas water heaters that are atmospherically vented and use a thermocouple as their electrical source and to residential electric water heaters having one or two heating elements and common wiring configurations for these water heater models.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

When a home’s water heater leaks, the repercussions are often quite serious. If the leak lets out water for a long period of time, water damage ruins floors, walls, and precious possessions. Homeowners want to fix leaks fast, but don’t always know where they come from or why they happen. However, this knowledge saves homeowners money and time. Luckily, leaks are easy to identify when you know where to look.

In Cincinnati, Ohio, Thomas & Galbraith’s plumbers inform homeowners about this important issue. Water heaters are dangerous when they leak in certain areas, so it’s important to take all leaks seriously. We cover the reasons why leaks occur in the water heater. We also speak about why those causes happen in the first place. This information helps homeowners differentiate between minor leaks and replacement worthy ones.

The causes of water heater leaks depend on a few factors. Sometimes, problems are small, which makes them easy for homeowners to fix on their own. However, there are other problems large enough to warrant an entirely new water heater. In general, it’s good practice to call a plumber to help you diagnose issues so you know the correct course of action is pursued.

Here are the most common reasons why water heaters leak.Old tank.Tank style water heaters older than about 15 years leak more often than newer heaters. As the unit ages, the parts wear out, the water doesn’t keep its warmth as well, and leaks occur more frequently. Water heater leaks due to old age sometimes happen because rust forms in the tank. This leads to corrosion, which allows water to exit through cracks. When the water heater reaches the end of its life, the only thing to do is replace it.

Drain valve.For maintenance visits and replacements, plumbers and homeowners use the drain valve to empty the tank. Homeowners also use the drain valve when they need to clean the tank. This valve loosens over time, which allows water to leak through. However, leaks from the base of the valve indicate that the component isn’t watertight. In this case, a new drain valve is necessary. Luckily, homeowners are able to complete this replacement, but it does help to hear what a plumber has to say before you take action.

Too much pressure.Like any plumbing fixture, water heaters deal with naturally occurring water pressure. Pressure occurs in water heaters because the hot water creates steam and fills the empty space. When this steam has nowhere to go, the pressure becomes too much. Water leaks through any crack in the heater to relieve some of the pressure. When the water temperature is set too high, or if water enters the system at high pressures, the heater pressure increases.

Faulty temperature and pressure relief valve.Water heater leaks also occur because of the temperature and pressure relief valve, known as the T&P valve. This valve helps relieve pressure inside the tank. When this valve doesn’t work, the pressure in the tank increases. Sometimes, the valve is simply loose and requires tightening. However, if the part is faulty, the piece needs a replacement. Lower the pressure in the tank before you deal with T&P valve issues.

Inlet and outlet connections.Cold water enters through the inlet connection, and hot water leaves through the outlet connection in a water heater. These connections allow hot water to enter your water fixtures. Over time, these loosen and cause leaks. It’s rare for any other issue to occur with the inlet and outlet connection.

Internal tank.Tank water heaters use two shells to complete its processes. The external shell provides insulation for the internal shell which holds the water. A final layer of metal covers both shells. Water heater leaks in the internal shell are difficult to spot, but occur because of age and deterioration in most cases. You don’t see this type of leak from the outside of the tank.

Sediment collection.As water heaters age, they collect sediment at the bottom of the tank. Homeowners who regularly clean the water out of the tank rarely experience this issue. However, for those who forgo draining the tank to clean it, sediment builds until cracks form. These cracks allow water to leak through. Tank leaks require an entirely new water heater which are expensive, so make sure to clean the tank semi-regularly.

Cracked storage tank.Some water heaters have an additional tank to expand the amount of water they hold. These tanks sometimes use glass to line the tank. Over time, minerals collect and calcify on the glass. This causes the glass to crack and leak water. Additionally, when the water becomes hot it expands, which puts stress on the glass and causes small cracks. Replacements are necessary in both cases.

Anode rod.Ananode rodacts as a sacrificial component of the water heater. It attracts corrosive substances so the water heater itself stays safe. However, water heater leaks occur when the anode rod becomes nearly nonexistent because of all the corrosion. Water leaks through the space where the anode rod used to be. Quick replacement takes care of any potential leaks.

When the water heater leaks, the location of the leak tells the plumber a lot about the cause. The location of the leak allows the plumber to rule out some problems because they are physically impossible. In addition, it’s good for homeowners to have a vague understanding of what leak locations mean. This makes the repair process much easier because homeowners are better able to let the plumbers know where to look when they arrive.Condensation.First of all, determine if the water you’re seeing is condensation or an actual leak. Homeowners sometimes worry over nothing, so it’s good to double check before you call a plumber. Condensation occurs when the temperature in the room varies wildly from the tank. For example, if the tank is very hot, but the room is cold, condensation occurs. Condensation doesn’t indicate any problems with the water heater.

Undetermined location.Water heater leaks sometimes seem to appear out of nowhere. In these cases, you likely notice pools of water under the unit. Too much pressure is the most likely cause. When pressure leaks occur, the water finds any tiny crack to leak through, then the leak stops when the pressure goes down. This makes it hard to locate the source unless you catch the leak as it happens.

Bottom leaks.Leaks from the bottom of the water heater are either minor or require a replacement. Either the drain valve or the tank itself causes these water heater leaks. Drain valves usually need tightening, but if the tank has a leak, the whole thing needs to go. These replacements are expensive, but necessary.

Top leaks.When water leaks from the top of the tank, the inlet and outlet connections are usually to blame. It’s rare for tank cracks to occur on the top, but it is possible. Other causes include loose T&P valves and anode rod corrosion. Luckily, repairs, replacements, or tightening the components are usually the most homeowners must do to resolve this type of leak. Only a crack results in a new water heater.

Leaks in the tank.Finally, water heater leaks inside the tank are impossible to see on the outside. While the water often pools at the bottom of the unit, this doesn’t mean the leak stems from there. The crack on the internal tank could be anywhere. Age and deterioration are the leading causes of this leak.

Homeowners are able to prevent most water heater leaks. These tasks are generally quick, easy, and prevent leaks altogether. Of course, some leaks are unpreventable, but for the most part homeowners have more control over leaks than they think.

The most important part of leak identification deals with reaction time. The faster homeowners identify a leak, the less likely they are to experience extreme water damage. However, with preventative measures, homeowners don’t experience leaks in the first place. Here’s how to keep your home safe from leaks.Tighten loose parts.Firstly, make sure to check how tight all of the component are on thewater heater. Loose parts allow water to leak through, so tighten them as often as necessary. All you need is a wrench.

Preventative maintenance.Regular maintenance done by a plumber ensures the water heater doesn’t experience any leaks. Maintenance checks allow plumbers to inspect the entire plumbing system, which means they cover the water heater. They make sure there are no active leaks, and they take a close look at all the components to see if they have the potential to cause leaks in the near future.

Drain and clean tank.A clean water heater tank is less likely to crack due to sediment collection. Homeowners are able to clean the tank themselves. Use the drain valve to empty the water, then use a bleach-water solution to clear away any mold and mildew growth. Not only does this improve the water quality, it also ensures sediment collection doesn’t damage the tank.

Respond quickly.Quick responses to any water heater leaks ensure homeowners don’t face harsh repercussions. If leaks run for long periods of time, floods are more likely to occur. Plus, when pressure builds in the tank for too long with no relief, the heater has the potential to explode. Quickly attend to leaks to ensure these scenarios don’t happen.

Check the water heater frequently.Lastly, along with maintenance checks, homeowners must inspect their water heaters as well. See if any parts are loose, check for cracks, and deal with any sediment collection you find. Homeowners need to keep an eye on the water heater to know when malfunctions or failures occur.

Water heater leaks in Cincinnati, OH are hard for homeowners to handle, but Thomas & Galbraith knows how to help.Call us todayto learn more about our services!

Year after year, your water heater serves an important role in your home. Your morning routine just wouldn’t be the same—or nearly as comfortable—without hot water. Yet, water heaters and their components do not last forever. Preventative maintenance is the key to ensuring that your water heater continues to safely provide your home with hot water. In this article, we’ll review a critical safety component of your water heater, the water heater pressure-relief valve.

If your water heater has stopped working, fill out the form to schedule a free VIP plumbing inspection here in the Chicago area. Our plumbers are available 24/7 to help you and your home!

The name is actually quite literal. It’s a valve that relieves excess pressure in the water heater tank. By doing so, it can prevent excess pressure buildup that has the potential to cause a tank burst and flood your home. It’s an unheralded but essential safety mechanism for your water heater.

As your water heater heats up the water in the tank, the water expands and steam is generated. The greater the heat, the more expansion that occurs. This expansion puts pressure on the exterior walls of the tank, but this is to be expected. Some degree of excess pressure escapes through the water pipes connected to the water heater. In the event that it cannot, the pressure-relief valve triggers. By releasing some of the hot water and air, the valve lowers the pressure back down to safe levels.

If the pressure-relief valve is unable to open, the pressure can continue to build inside of the tank past that 100 PSI ceiling. The heavy metal tank can withstand a lot of pressure buildup, but it eventually has its limits. The results are explosive, as the tank gives way, sending hot water flooding outward.

If your water heater has an emergency shutoff valve installed, the burst will be detected and the water supply will automatically shutoff. If not, you’re potentially looking at a flooded home with significant and costly water damage.

So, what causes the pressure-relief valve to fail? In many cases, the valve gets stuck or frozen in place due to the buildup of rust and corrosion inside the tank. Or, the valve is stuck due to a prior instance in which it released hot water.

A broken valve is something that should be fixed right away, but—unless you’re examining your water heater closely on a regular basis—may not be something most homeowners notice. That’s why regular testing and maintenance is important.

We recommend that homeowners here in Chicago test their pressure-relief valve when they flush out their water heater twice every year. Bundling your water heater maintenance tasks together makes sense, since each of these tasks takes about 10 minutes to complete.

Start by positioning a large bucket underneath the valve. You are going to release some hot water during this process, so you want to make sure you’re wearing safe clothes to reduce a scalding risk. Remove the drain pipe attached to the pressure valve.

Then, gently lift the valve switch so that hot water begins to come out of the valve and into the bucket. For the purposes of this test, don’t push the switch all the way up.

So long as water and air are coming out of the water heater during this test, your water heater pressure-relief valve is working as intended. On the other hand, if you’ve flipped the switch up and you’re not seeing any release, that could indicate a problem with the valve.

Did you know that most people use between 80 and 100 gallons of water every day? From using the restroom and showering to cooking and cleaning, your water usage is a crucial part of your daily home routine. Here are just a few daily tasks most homeowners do without thinking, and the corresponding amount of water it takes to complete them: Flushing a toilet: 1-3 gallons per flus