hot water heater safety valve leaking brands

Water heaters come equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve, also known as a TPRV. This valve allows water or steam to escape from the water heater if the temperature or pressure gets too high. This prevents a water heater from exploding or turning into a missile.

When a TPRV at a water heater leaks, it’s usually a simple fix; just replace the valve. These valves cost less than $15 and replacing the valve is a basic job. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this, and the whole project probably won’t take more than fifteen minutes.

If you replace a TPRV and it starts leaking again, it probably means the valve is doing its job; it’s relieving excess pressure. When this happens, the fix gets a little bit more involved, and some troubleshooting is in order.

The TPRV on a water heater is set to discharge at 150 PSI or 210° Fahrenheit.  These numbers will be printed right on the valve, or on a tag attached to the valve.  See below.

If a pressure relief valve for a boiler is accidentally installed on a water heater, it will leak like crazy from the start. These valves may look identical, but they’re set to go off at 30 psi, not 150 psi.

The easiest way to do this is to get a gauge with a garden hose thread, connect it to an outside garden hose faucet, and open up the faucet. If that’s not an option, you can also use the hot or cold spigot for a washing machine. You should expect the pressure to be somewhere in the 40 – 80 PSI range with no other water running. If the pressure is over 80 PSI, it should be corrected. That’s too high for your system. The solution is to have a pressure regulator installed. Get a plumber to do that, as they’ll need to install an expansion tank at the same time. I’ll come back to those in a minute.

If the pressure is within the acceptable range, you probably have an intermittent problem with excessive pressure that can be easily re-created. Go run a bunch of hot water at your plumbing fixtures until you’ve exhausted the hot water supply on your water heater, and keep running the water for another few minutes. If you have several fixtures open, this should only take about ten to fifteen minutes. Now stop running water at all of your fixtures and wait.

You’ve just replaced the hot water in your water heater with cold water, which will cause your water heater to run for a while. This will cause the water to expand significantly until the water heater thermostat is satisfied. That might take about an hour or two. In most situations, this water will expand back out through the cold water inlet, all the way back to the water supply coming into the house. The municipal water supply for the house acts as a gigantic expansion tank… and nobody notices. This is illustrated in the diagram below.

A closed system exists when water can’t leave your house. One way for this to happen is to have a check valve installed on the water supply coming into the home. I don’t see a lot of these in Minnesota, but I do see them periodically.

The other way to create a closed system is to have a pressure regulator installed that contains a built-in check valve. With either of these installed, water can’t leave the house. When water expands and can’t go anywhere, pressure in the system increases. Watch your pressure gauge to verify this. Once the pressure gets to 150 PSI, the TPRV should do its job and leak.

When a closed system exists on the water distribution piping in a home, an expansion tank needs to be installed somewhere on the plumbing system. This is a simple and straightforward fix; an expansion tank will give the water somewhere to go when it expands, and the TPRV on the water heater will stop causing problems.

Expansion tanks are required when a closed system exists, both by water heater manufacturers and by plumbing codes. The Minnesota State Plumbing Code requires an expansion tank when a pressure regulator is installed (608.2):

An approved expansion tank shall be installed in the cold water distribution piping downstream of each such regulator to prevent excessive pressure from developing due to thermal expansion and to maintain the pressure setting of the regulator.

A water system provided with a check valve, backflow preventer, or other normally closed device that prevents dissipation of building pressure back into the water main shall be provided with an approved, listed, and adequately sized expansion tank or other approved device having a similar function to control thermal expansion.

It’s never a good sign when you find water on the floor around your water heater. But before you panic, it’s important to figure out where it’s coming from.

Upon further investigation, if you find the water is being discharged from a small tube that comes out of the top or side of the unit, runs down the side of the tank, and ends near the ground, then the source is likely the temperature pressure relief valve, or relief valve, for short.

The relief valve is an important safety feature on the water heater. If the water inside the unit gets too hot (usually above 210 degrees) or pressure builds up too high (above 150 psi), the water heater can become damaged or even explore.

A good solution to this risk is the relief valve. If at any point the temperature or pressure reaches an unsafe level, the water heater triggers the relief valve to open and release water out of the tank until the temperature and pressure return to normal.

Both circumstances should be taken very seriously. If the relief valve is needed frequently, that means there’s an issue with your water heater that is causing unsafe temperatures or pressure.

On the other hand, if the relief valve is stuck or has another problem, it needs to be fixed or replaced right away so it can do its job properly when necessary.

If water is coming out of the relief valve of your water heater, don’t ignore it. Bring in the expert team at Pratt Plumbing to inspect your water heater to make sure you don’t have a potentially dangerous situation in your home. To schedule an appointment, call (806) 373-7866 today.

The water heater is known for its high heat and high pressure. The water heater temperature-pressure relief valve (TPR Valve), protects us from this high heat and pressure. So what is the TPR valve, why does it leak, and what should you do about it?

The TPR valve, also called, a pressure relief valve is a specialized valve at your water heater. This valve is typically on the top or side of your water heater.

The valve functions by releasing water if your water heater becomes too pressurized. Since heated water expands, the water heater can become a ticking time bomb if we were to continually build pressure in your water heater.

As seen in the featured image, a TPR valve is required to have a discharge pipe/tube. This tube should be aimed straight to the ground and never go up. This is because hot water will come out of the TPR valve as it releases water. Therefore, extremely hot water should discharge to the ground for safety.

Additionally, if a pipe were to go up, water will have to work against gravity to empty. So, it is possible a slow drip of the TPR valve will collect water in the tubing and ultimately rust out the valve rather than empty it to the floor.

Be one nominal size larger than the size of the relief valve outlet, where the relief valve discharge piping is installed with insert fittings. The outlet end of such tubing shall be fastened in place.

Typically, the solution to this is through a bladder tank, also named an expansion tank. The expansion tank works by allowing more room for the heated water to expand too. Depending on your location and home, an expansion tank might be required by code.

However, if you find the relief valve to continue to leak even after replacement, you should contact a plumber for assistance. A licensed plumber will be able to evaluate your system and decide on installing an expansion tank or other solutions.

A leaking water heater can indicate several problems. It can be something as simple as a loose connection, or more serious such as a corroded water tank.

A couple of the most obvious places to start is with the pressure-relief valve and the drain valve. The pressure-relief valve is located at the top of the water heater, while the drain valve is connected towards the bottom.

It’s quite common for water to be dripping from the temperature-pressure relief valve, which is designed to release water when it senses too much pressure. This pressure can be caused by the temperature dial being set too high, by the water pressure connected through your home’s water main, or by valves that reduce water pressure in your water supply system.

In some cases, the temperature-pressure relief valve may be faulty. Replacing it will solve the problem. A fully functional relief valve is necessary to prevent excessive buildup of steam that could cause the water heater tank to explode. A reputable plumber can fix it quickly.

Drips from the water heater drain valve can often be handled by tightening the drain valve. If it’s defective and can’t be tightened, it needs to be replaced.

When you see condensation drips, it often occurs when the tank is filled with cold water, or during colder seasons. It may disappear once the water has had a chance to warm up. If you see condensation on gas water heaters, it can also come from the vent. Ensure there aren’t any obstructions. If so, the flue should be cleaned out. A water heater professional can help you clean it out.

The pressure relief valve on your water heater is an essential component to providing year-round comfort and keeping you and your family safe. Without this component, your water heater could overheat—causing it to break down. View our tips to become familiar about how this relief valve works and how to spot common issues.

You will find a water heater pressure relief valve on just about every standard hot water heater. Once the pressure and/or temperature inside your water heater gets too high, this component relieves the excess pressure. This decrease helps the temperature to return to a safe and stable level. The relief valve also prevents water leaks and keeps the water pressure from getting too low.

A valve is a one-way pipe that allows elements to pass through it. Here’s how a water pressure relief valve works: when the internal temperature of your water heater increases to a certain point, the appliance will naturally expand.

This expansion, however, should be limited. When the temperature gets too high, the relief valve opens to expel excess hot water and steam from the water heater so it doesn’t overheat.

You should always know where to find the pressure relief valve on your water heater in the case of an emergency. This device is typically located on the top or side of the appliance and is attached to an upward-pointing discharge tube.

If your water heater’s pressure relief valve has gone bad, you’ll probably know it. Here are the five most common signs that you need to repair or replace this device.

The most obvious and dangerous sign that your water heater pressure relief valve has gone bad is if it causes flooding in your home. If you experience this problem, cut off the water supply and have a professional come out to fix it.

Two common water heater sounds are rattling and whistling, both of which result from built-up steam that can’t escape the unit. If the steam can’t escape properly, that means the pressure relief valve isn’t working.

As the water heater pressure relief valve ages, it can start to corrode and make the water in your unit dirty. If this becomes a consistent problem, have a technician take a look at the valve. You’ll likely need to clean, repair, or replace it.

Since the pressure relief valve removes excess hot water from your unit, it will naturally leak some water from time to time. But if it leaks excessively and often, you’ll need to take a look at the valve.

While it’s normal for some water to leak from the pressure relief valve, the unit itself should never leak water. This can happen when the valve doesn’t properly relieve pressure from the unit and, in response, the tank ruptures.

If you’re looking for safe, reliable, and high-quality water heater repair and water heater installation services in the Northern Virginia area, call our team of technicians by phone at (703) 543-9649. With 50 years of experience in the HVAC and plumbing industries, we have become the trusted choice for achieving premium home comfort. In addition, our team of licensed plumbers offer other types of plumbing services such as sink installation, sump pump repair, gas line installation, and sewer line replacement. Our team of technicians won’t let you down. Schedule an appointment with one of our technicians today.

The temperature and pressure relief valve (sometimes called a tpr valve or tp valve) helps regulate the pressure and temperature of the water inside the tank. Both can be extremely dangerous if too high.

The Temperature and pressure relief valve on all water heaters automatically opens when they sense an excessive amount of pressure or heat in the water heater tank, alleviating any damage they might have caused. Water will leak through the valve and discharge tube after all excess air escapes from the tank.

Another function of the temperature and pressure relief valve is to release water from the tank if it gets too hot.Thermostats and temperature controlscan go out in time. When the water in our hot water tank gets to a dangerous level, we rely on the pressure relief valve to expel it from the tank and through the discharge tube before it can give us 3rd-degree burns.

If you have questions about whether your temperature and pressure relief valve is leaking or if other problems are causing it to release water, call Hackler Plumbing today. Our professionals will be able to give you the answers you need after a thorough investigation of your water heater temperature and pressure relief valve.

The best way to prevent a faulty temperature and pressure relief valve is to maintain it regularly. The pressure relief valve must work right as it is the most crucial safety feature on the water heater.

Preventive maintenance is the best way to care for a water heater. These are the best two ways to check and maintain your temperature and pressure relief valve.

Check for water leaking from the valve or attached pipe. A water leak is often a sign something is wrong with the pressure relief valve. A damaged rubber gasket or faulty lifting handle can allow water to seep through the valve. Call Hackler Plumbing today if your temperature and pressure relief valve is damaged.

Test the valve annually by lifting the handle and relieving pressure from the water heater tank. Every water heater needs flushing annually as well. We shouldn’t have any surprises with a faulty temperature and pressure relief valve as long as we regularly maintain our water heater correctly.

The temperature and pressure relief valve is a safety feature we need to work on any water heater. Many components work together on a water heater so that our water is at the perfect temperature and comes out with just the right amount of pressure.

The temperature and pressure release valve protect us when any components on the water heater go out. It’s important to remember that a pressure valve is made to discharge water from the tank if there are any issues. Figuring out if it’s leaking or not can be confusing.

Let’s say we change the temperature and pressure valve and it continues to leak after replacement. Now we know there is a more serious problem with our water heater and we wasted all that time and money.

There is a lot more to a water heater than meets the eye. One of the most common issues inside a water heater tank is thermal expansion. The professionals at Hackler Plumbing can tell if thermal expansion is occurring in your system and what you can do to solve the problem.

Water expands when it gets heated. Our water heater tank and plumbing lines are a “closed” system if a check valve or pressure regulator is on the water supply for the house.

When the water expands in any closed system, it will have nowhere to go. When the temperature builds up in the tank, so does the pressure. The temperature and pressure relief valve work to alleviate this excess build-up to keep our water heater from exploding. In some cases, serious measures will need to be taken to handle the extra pressure caused by thermal expansion in a closed system.

Adding an expansion tank to a closed system can completely stop a leaking T&P valve. If you’ve replaced your temperature and pressure relief valve, but it’s still leaking, one of our professionals at Hackler Plumbing will be happy to inspect your plumbing system.

They can determine whether or not you have a check valve or pressure regulator installed and help solve your temperature and pressure relief valve problem. They will even be able to install an expansion tank if they discover you do have a closed system.

It doesn’t matter where the expansion tank is installed, as long as the water has somewhere to go when the thermal expansion occurs. Call Hackler Plumbing today if you think you require an expansion tank installation. We are your local McKinney plumbing company serving the surrounding Metroplex area and are here to fix all water heater-related problems and can performtankless water complete installations.

In the previous guide (Rheem Water Heater Status Light Blinking Blue), I announced an in-depth guide will come on Rheem Water Heater Leaking. And here it is.

In Today’s guide, I will depict every reason that causes your Rheem water heater to leak. At the same time, I will let you know how to stop the leak. So, stay in tune till the end.

If the water is coming out of the top, loose fittings, a leaking or faulty pressure relief valve, and a corroded anode rod are the culprits behind this issue. On the other hand, loose drain valves and damaged inner tanks are responsible for leaking water from the bottom of the water heater.

Rheem water heater is leaking from the top due to loose inlet & outlet pipes, a leaky vent collar, a faulty T&P valve, and a defective anode rod. These common places are to blame if the water is leaking out of the top of the water heater. In this chapter, I will break down each of them.

Every water heater, whether it comes from Rheem or other brands, has inlet and outlet pipes. If you observe the water pouring out from the top of the tank, the cold supply inlet and the hot water outlet pipes are first to blame.

If you see the water coming out of the connection points, tightening up the pipe will do the trick for you. Just use a wrench to secure the pipes tightly.

Just set up a ratchet strap on your water heater and a cheater bar on the wrench on the nipple. With one pull the strap and the other one to push the wrench. It will help remove the nipple without knocking over the entire unit. Either way, you can check the following tutorial to learn how to repair the nipple:

Rheem Water Heater Leaking From Collar Vent! Yes, water may come out of the vent collar. If it’s leaking out of the vent collar, usually what you are going to see is a stream of mist. It’s because there is a little tiny pinhole that sprays water up into the vent or out the side. The sad news is- you can’t repair it.

Water pouring out from the top of the tank is an indication of a faulty temperature and pressure valve. This valve is mostly known as a pressure relief valve. It’s a safety feature of every water heater.

When the inside temperature or pressure starts climbing above a certain level, it runs the risk of exploding your water heater. But the T&P valve avoids this potential danger. If the pressure goes up to the safety level, the pressure relief valve opens itself to allow some water to drain to release the pressure. It’s a normal job for the T&P valve. But you can assume it’s because of a leak.

Secondly, the T&P valve is truly at fault, which is responsible for leaking water from the top of the tank. A simple test will let you identify whether the temperature and pressure relief valve goes bad or not.

Open the T&P valve with your hand and the pressure will escape. If your water heater doesn’t pass this simple test, you should replace the pressure relief valve.

There is no option except to replace the T&P valve if it goes bad. Follow the below steps to change the pressure relief valve on your Rheem water heater.

Now, open the drain valve to drain water. If your water heater has a top-mounted T&P valve, you should drain at least a gallon of water. Otherwise, you need to drain up to 10 gallons of water for a side-mounted T&P valve.

Rheem Water Heater Leaking From Anode! Either an anode rod that gets extensively corroded or the failed pipe dope on the thread is responsible for water to leak out from the top of the water heater.

I’m pretty sure there is a problem with the pipe dope on the thread if the water is pouring out of the anode hole after filling the heater. Regarding this, you should follow the below steps to fix this issue:

Next, replace the anode rod if it gets extensively corroded. The procedure of replacing the anode rod is also the same. Follow the steps from 1 to 4. Then, get a new anode rod and put it into your water heater, and screw it back.

Take a look at the above picture. It seems the water is leaking just below the thermostat, right? The last time when I encountered this issue, I also thought about the water coming out of the thermostat.

But the good news is- the thermostat on the water heater will never leak. The water dripping out of the thermostat is from the heating element. There is a rubber gasket that seals the heating element at the tank opening. If that rubber gasket gets cracked or damaged, water starts leaking from there and wetting the thermostat area.

I highly recommend you call a plumber if the water heater is leaking out of the heating element because it’s not a DIY project. The heating element is in the ‘live’ electrical area and it requires professional knowledge to deal with this problem.

Your Rheem Water Heater is usually leaking from the bottom due to a loose or defective drain valve. Either way, a damaged inner tank can cause the water to pour out of the bottom of the unit. And this chapter will break down both these issues that allow water to leak from the bottom.

If the drain valve is not completely closed, water will drip and flood the floor. Besides, a loose drain valve can allow water to leak. You can easily inspect the drain valve to see whether it’s leaking or not.

Tightening up the drain valve will sometimes fix the issue if the water is leaking due to a loose drain valve. Just use a pipe wrench and fasten the drain valve. Otherwise, you should replace it if water is still leaking out despite tightening up the drain valve.

The water heater will leak water out of the bottom if the inner tank gets corroded. A simple leak test will help you determine whether the inner tank gets damaged or not.

Take off the access panel cover. Then, feel inside with your fingers. If the insulation feels wet, there is a 99% chance that your inner tank is leaking, which is not repairable.

As it’s not repairable, you need to get a new water heater. Basically, the inner tank gets damaged due to a lack of proper maintenance. You should flush the water heater tank every six months to remove sediment buildup. Regarding this, you can check out this guide ‘Will Vinegar Damage A Hot Water Heater’, where I broke down how to flush a water heater with vinegar.

Yes, a leaking water heater is dangerous. When the water heater leaks, it can flood the room where you set the heater up. And guess what, the water may bring damage to your flooring, which may cost thousands of bucks.

There is a minimum risk if the water heater is leaking unless it leaks from the T&P valve. It’s a safety mechanism of the water heater and releases pressure and temperature when both pressure and temperature exceed a certain level.

If you see the water is leaking from the pressure relief valve, turn off your water heater right off the bat. Then, call a professional for help to avoid further damage.

Ensure it’s your water heater that leaks water. Sometimes some owners consider the condensation as a leak. If you place the water heater near the AC or furnace, make sure these appliances are not leaking.

After finding out the source of the leaking, clean the water spills right off the bat. Otherwise, it will damage other parts of the heater. Fix the manageable issues. Luckily, I broke down some troubleshooting steps to solve the leaking problems.

Improper maintenance or not maintaining the water heater causes your water heater to leak. For example, a corroded inner tank is the result of irregular or lack of maintenance. Your water heater demands to flush the tank every 6 months to remove the sediments. If you don’t do that, get ready to change the water heater if water is coming out of the inner tank.

Apart from this, there are other reasons (I mentioned above) that allow your water heater to leak water. What you need to do is- follow every troubleshooting step we described. I hope you can stop the water leak unless they are not repairable. In this case, turn off the water heater and call a professional for help.

Eric Alvarez is an HVAC guy based in El Paso, Texas, United States. He obtained his Bachelor of Science degree from the University Of Texas at El Paso. Years of experience in the HVAC field have taught him many lessons, not the least of which is that the value of quality and knowledge far exceeds any promised initial savings. He has a good standing reputation for superior skills in heating, air conditioning, hot water tanks, and indoor air quality systems.

A leak from your water heater’s pressure relief valve is a major concern, especially if it’s the first time dealing with this problem. While some people tend to panic and get help immediately, others may just shrug their shoulders and assume that the leak is a common occurrence. However, there are many causes of leaks in water pressure relief valves. And all these must be addressed immediately given the high risks of property damage and hazards that can occur if the issue is ignored.

The pressure relief valve gives steam and water a chance to escape when either the pressure or temperature in the water tank gets too high. A malfunctioning valve can cause the water heater to explode and is the major cause of water heater explosions. In water heater pressure relief valves, the valve is set to open when the pressure exceeds 150 psi.

A leaking valve is not always a broken valve. In some cases, a water heater’s pressure relief valve may leak because it is functioning as intended. As excess pressure is relieved out of your water heater system, some water may leak. This necessitates the need to test the pressure in your water heater.

The process is not complicated. However, if you are not comfortable checking the water pressure, you can always contact your technician. To test the pressure, use a pressure gauge and attach it to either the cold-water pipe or the hot water pipe. However, one of the easiest places to connect the pressure gauge is the outdoor hose faucets. For this, ensure you purchase a pressure gauge that is designed for garden hoses.

Turn off all water outlets and faucets. The pressure reading should be between 40 psi- 80 psi. If the gauge shows a psi reading of 150 and above, then the cause of the leak could be high pressure. If the water pressure is normal and the leak is persistent, then high water pressure is not the cause of the leak.

If you get a high-pressure reading, then you could be dealing with a closed plumbing system issue. This means that when the water is heated, the pressure increases as it should. But with nowhere to go, the valves open to relieve the pressure. Luckily, this can be solved by installing an expansion tank that gives the pressure an outlet other than a pressure relief valve.

Although rare, your water heater’s pressure relief valve could be leaking as a result of excessively high temperatures. However, the water has to be near the boiling point. To check the water temperature, ensure you turn on the hot water faucet. Run the water for one minute and use a meat thermometer to take the temperature reading. The temperature should be around 120 degrees. If more than this, then you need to have the water heater checked. The water temperature would need to be close to 212 degrees to set off the relief valve.

While this is an uncommon occurrence, it is not far-fetched. Your technician could have used a pressure valve for another appliance since they have the same function. However, these other pressure relief valves are set to go off at a lower psi. For instance, boiler pressure valves go off at 30 psi. If installed in a water heater, you are likely to get leaks immediately after installation. As such, if you have had your water heater for years and only experienced the leaks after a long period, then this is an unlikely cause of the leak.

A slight leak may occur if your water heater’s pressure relief valve has not been opened for a while, say a few years. While this leak is normal and may not be an indicator of a problem with the water heater system, you may need to replace the valve if the leak becomes more serious. It is cheaper to replace the entire valve than to repair it and have to deal with the same problem later on.

A leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve could also be caused by a faulty pressure relief valve. While pressure relief valves barely break down, excessive wear and improper installation can cause extensive damage. Unfortunately, a faulty pressure valve can not be repaired and must be replaced. However, the cost of pressure valves is affordable and ranges around $30.

Know your water heater and how it functions– Water heaters can be intimidating, especially for people with less technical know-how.  Understand what every part of the system plays in heating water such as the water shutoff valve, drain valve, thermostat, and pressure relief valve. This eases the maintenance routine and ensures you have a fair understanding of any malfunctions.

Insulate the pipes and the water heater– By insulating both the cold water and hot water pipes, you get to prevent condensation while also reducing heat loss. Also, insulating the water heater helps to keep water hot when surrounded by cold air.

Carry out regular maintenance– Inspect your water heater monthly, ensuring that all valves and pipes are in good shape. This also helps you catch corrosion and leaks early enough before they turn out to be bigger problems. And every year, carry out a water heater flush. Given that you cannot pinpoint all problems, have a qualified technician inspect the system annually.

Regardless of the possible cause of a leak in your water heater’s pressure relief valve, please contact a qualified plumber as soon as possible. And if you think it’s a problem that you can solve without getting help, ensure you have a qualified plumber confirm that the system is performing optimally after. Water heater issues should not be taken lightly as they can cause more issues, even explosions.

You said there was a ton of sediment in the heater. That generally means that the sediment is taking up space and the water heater is overworking and much less efficient than it was designed. The water is at 135 degrees? That is about 15 or 20 degrees higher than it should be. It sounds like you are turning up the thermostat higher because of running out of hot water when showering. First you need to try and clean and flush the sediment. The ratings on you T&P valve are maximum under perfect conditions. Like MPG on your new car. The pressure in your tank can equal your street pressure from thermal expansion even though you have a pressure reducing valve. Because you have so much sediment, the water heater will have a tendency of firing up much more frequently, heating the water and causing the thermal expansion you are experiencing. Capped pipes in your attic or above your heater are really inadequate for the type of thermal expansion that is created with today"s water heaters. That was an old school method more than 60 years ago. Today we have thermal expansion tanks with diaphragms that are applicable devices for this type of problem. Your incoming pressure should not exceed 80 PSI. If it does you should have 1. A pressure reducing valve before the water enters into your home. 2. A pressure relief valve somewhere (preferably the same area as your reducing valve) on your system. 3. A temperature and pressure reducing valve on your heater. 4. A heat expansion tank at your heater. 5. An adequate, clean and maintained water tank providing hot water to your home. If you can say yes to all of the above, replace the tank because you may have a malfunctioning thermostat (which is rare and very dangerous).

If you find your water heater leaking, you need to take action immediately. A leaking water heater may seem like a minor inconvenience, but in reality, it can quickly turn into a major problem. The average water heater has a 50-gallon tank and whenever water leaves the tank (drawn or leaking) cold water will quickly refill it to capacity.

As the tank is constantly refilling from the water heater leak, the area surrounding your tank will flood. Even a small amount of water leaking from your water heater can cause damage to your floors, sub-floors and walls. A significant flood could lead to hefty repair bills and damage to personal property. Water heater leaks can also be a health concern and lead to mold and mildew.

Not all water heater leaks are serious. Some can be repaired by simply tightening a connection. Others may need a little more attention, but you can probably do the repairs yourself, especially if you enjoy DIY projects.

Unfortunately, there"s also times when you"ll find your water tank leaking and you"ll either need to call a plumber to make the repairs, or purchase a new water heater.

If your water heater leak is not obvious, then you may want to do a little troubleshooting before turning off the water supply. Just because you have water under your water heater doesn"t mean that your water heater is leaking.

Furnace drain lines, water softener discharge lines, condensation, and other plumbing could be the source. These things can easily make it look as though your water tank is leaking, when in fact, the problem isn"t your water heater at all.

If you can"t identify where the water is coming from, you can dry the area and place some paper towels or newspapers down. Check back over the next couple of days. If the water returns, and you still can"t identify the source, there"s a good chance your water heater is leaking.

On top of your water heater there should be two pipes. One will be warm to the touch and the other cold. Some manufacturers even identify them with red and blue collars or paint.

The pipe that"s cold is the water supply line. It allows cold water to enter your water heater when hot water is drawn. Follow the line and look for a shutoff valve. Most water heaters have a shutoff valve on the water supply line.

There are two types of valves commonly used:Ball Valve - Ball valves have a lever type handle. Pull or turn the handle down to shut off the water supply.

Dial Valve- Dial valves (also called gate valves) have a wheel that needs to be turned clockwise to turn off the water supply. Turn the dial until it stops.

In this case, you may need to turn the water off using your home"s main shut-off valve. This will shut down all the incoming water to your house, including the water supply to your water heater.

How to Turn Off a Gas Water HeaterLocate the valve on the gas supply line. The line is usually within a couple feet of your water heater. It"s located near the bottom and connects to the gas control valve.

How to Turn Off an Electric Water HeaterLocate the breaker to your water heater in the household electrical panel. It will be on a dedicated circuit breaker.

Right now our goal is to identify the source of the water heater leak. Once you determine why your water heater is leaking, we"ll show you how to fix the problem.

If your water heater has a pool of water on top, there"s a good chance that the source of the leak is either the incoming water supply valve, cold water inlet, or the hot water outlet.

Whenever there are pipe connections, there"s a higher chance of a leak. Follow the cold and hot water pipes. Do you see any water? Are the fittings tight? Is there any leakage around the shutoff valve on the cold water supply line?

When pressure builds within the tank to an unsafe level, the T&P valve relieves the tank pressure by opening the valve and allowing some of the water out of the tank.

You can find the T&P relief valve on the top of your water heater or on the side. Look for a copper or PVC pipe that runs down the side of the tank towards the floor. This is the T&P drain pipe and it connects to the relief valve.

How to Determine if the T&P Valve is the Source of the Leak:Inspect the Tank: Check the area where the T&P relief valve enters the tank for signs of a leak.

Inspect the Valve: If the T&P relief valve is in the closed position and water is flowing from the attached pipe, the valve is defective and needs to be replaced.

Inspect the Valve: If the T&P relief valve is in the open position, it may be relieving excessive pressure from the tank (which is forcing the valve open). If this is the case, the leak is generally fixable, but the situation should be taken very seriously. We highly recommend calling a professional plumber.

Since the T&P relief valve is a safety device, and if this is the source of your leak, it"s important that the valve is either replaced, or a plumber is called as soon as possible.

Once you determine that the problem is coming from the T&P valve we"ll do some additional troubleshooting to try to isolate the problem. If the solution is to replace the valve, we"ll show you how.

If the T&P valve opens intermittently, or even daily, the cause may be due to normal water pressure expansion. This can be resolved by installing an expansion tank. Read our extensive article on expansion tanks HERE.

Check the area around the drain valve where it enters the tank. There should be no signs of moisture. If you do have moisture where the drain valve enters the tank, it"s likely that you have an internal tank leak.

Unfortunately, many manufacturers install low quality drain valves in their water heaters, so it"s not uncommon for this to be the source of your leak.

If the internal steel water tank is leaking, you won"t be able to see it by looking at the outer skin. In most cases, you"ll notice water under the water heater since the most likely way for it to escape is from the bottom.

When you were inspecting your drain valve and T&P relief valve, you may have noticed moisture where the valves entered the tank. If this was the case, there"s a good chance that your internal water tank is leaking.

There are preventative measures you can take such as, treating hard water and performing regular maintenance, but eventually the inevitable will happen and you"ll have a leaking water heater.

If the problem appears to be minor, and you have experience doing your own home plumbing repairs, you may choose to fix your leaking water heater yourself.

If you have a leak coming from the area where the cold water inlet or hot water outlet connects to the water heater, you may be able to fix it by tightening the connections with a pipe wrench.

If tightening the connectors doesn"t stop the leak, then you should replace the flex lines that supply the cold water (or hot water). The video below will show you how.

Since the T&P relief valve is designed to prevent your water heater from overheating and developing excessive pressure within the tank, it"s a good idea to do a little extra troubleshooting before assuming the valve is faulty and simply replacing it with a new one.

This article will show you how to determine if the problem is a faulty T&P relief valve or if the valve is actually doing its job. If it"s the latter, then your water heater requires immediate attention.

It"s also not uncommon to notice water leaking from the threads of your T&P relief valve where it attaches to the tank. If this is the case, you"ll need to remove the T&P valve and check the tank for signs of rust or corrosion.

If you see signs of rust or corrosion it"s an indication that the problem is with the internal tank. Unfortunately, you"ll need to purchase a new water heater.

However, if the tank appears to be in good condition, you can wrap the threads of the T&P valve with Teflon tape and screw it back into the tank. It may simply not have had a good seal.

If you determine that the valve is faulty and needs to be replaced. You can find step-by-step directions here, or follow along with this instructional video.

If your water heater is leaking from the drain valve, it is generally one of two things:There is debris inside the valve preventing it from fully closing

How to Determine if a Drain Valve is Faulty:Place a bucket under the valve and turn the dial counter-clockwise. If there"s not enough space between the floor and the drain valve for a bucket, you may need to attach a garden hose.

Once the drain valve is open it should flush out debris. If it"s been awhile since you"ve flushed your water heater tank, it"s possible that your drain valve will clog. Here"s how to address the clog.

Unlike the T&P relief valve, the drain valve is not a safety device. If you"re unsure about replacing the valve yourself, or don"t have time to get to it right away, you can simply buy a brass garden hose end cap and screw it onto the drain valve threads

Changing a drain valve is relatively easy, and something you can do yourself once you buy a new valve. Always be sure to purchase one that"s compatible with your water heater.

Water heaters are usually factory-set to heat water to 125°F, which is hot enough to inflict first degree burns to skin on contact. And, if the water temperature was set to maximum, the water could be anywhere from 160° to 190°F which could result in serious injuries!

If your internal tank is leaking, you really only have one viable option. You"ll need to replace the water heater. Internal tank leaks can not be repaired and the leak will only get worse.

However, if the water heater leak isn"t too bad, and its installed in a basement or garage, you could buy yourself some time and just keep an eye on it.

Although we don"t recommend this approach, a minor leak likely won"t do too much damage on a cement floor, especially in a garage. It could allow you to budget for a new water heater, rather than going in debt or buying an inexpensive lower quality unit.

If you do choose to go this route, we highly recommend purchasing a water alarm and positioning the sensor at a distance that will alert you to a serious leak.

Depending on the type of leak, you"ll either need to repair or replace your water heater. Although, many of the repair fixes can be performed by the homeowner, frequently people prefer to call a professional plumber.

Water heaters generally last 8 to 12 years. So if your leaking water heater is nearing old age, you may choose to replace it with a new energy efficient model rather than pay for repairs.

New water heaters are far more energy efficient, which means they will save you money each month in operating costs. They"ll also be under warranty, so any issues for the next couple of years will be covered.

We recommend considering the cost of repairs and the age of your water heater when you make your decision on whether to repair or replace your water heater.

Your water heater is one of the main appliances in your household. When it isn"t operating correctly, it"ll make its problems known. Either by not delivering hot water, creating unusual noises, or leaking.

If you"ve determined that your water heater leak is beyond your skill set. You need to call a professional plumber at 1(888) 594-4431. They"ll be trained and prepared to handle any issue they encounter, and can offer advise on whether you should repair or replace your water heater.

If you hire a plumber to replace your water heater, in most cases they"ll get rid of the old one for you. However, if you"re replacing the water heater yourself, you"ll need to find a way to get rid of it on your own. This article will give you several options.

Maybe. Tankless water heaters are wonderful and have many advantages. But they aren"t for every homeowner. We recommend reading our Tankless Buyers Guide to see if making the switch is a good move for you. There"s a lot to consider, so take your time to be sure it"s the right thing to do.

Yes, if your water heater is leaking because the T&P relief valve is releasing pressure from within the tank, then the situation could be extremely dangerous. Your water heater is malfunctioning and causing either the internal tank pressure to be above 150 psi or the water temperature to be above 210°F. Turn off the power and call a professional immediately.

However, in most cases, water damage is the biggest concern. Repairing damaged floors can be expensive and it"ll be critical that the clean-up is properly done or you may develop mold and mildew. Mold and mildew can be a health hazard and can cause serious respiratory problems.

This article explains hot water thermal expansion that can cause leaks, drips, or discharges from pressure relief valves, temperature/pressure relief valves, or TP valves found on heating boilers, water heaters.

Watch out: a dripping or frequently spilling T&P valve is dangerous because those very leaks can eventually cause the valve to clog and then to fail to open when it should.

See HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE - for an explanation of just how much pressure increase to expect when heating water. In explaining why the relief valve on a water heater may be dripping, American Water Heater Co. [1] explains:

Note: While a 125 psi pressure relief valve on cold water supply piping is fine to protect piping from rupturing, if building incoming water pressures are too high, rather than relying just on a relief valve (wasting water) we prefer to install a pressure reducing/control valve at the building entering water supply piping. Limit incoming water pressure to 60 psi at a typical one or two story residential home.

Watts (2011) suggests two methods for testing for thermal expansion of hot water as the cause of a TP valve drip. The text below is adapted from that source.

If the TPR valve is leaking due to thermal expansion of hot water, simply opening a water faucet or fixture anywhere in the plumbing system will immediately stop the drip.

That"s because opening the hot water faucet reduces the system pressure back to normal operating levels - we are no longer heating water in a "closed" piping and tank system.

Why would opening either a hot or cold water faucet work? Because when no water is running, the entire plumbing system is "closed" - unless there is an expansion tank already installed on the hot water heating system to accommodate thermal expansion, heating water in the water cylinder (water heater for Yanks) causes an increase in system pressure.

Install a pressure gauge on a convenient hose bib such as at the washing machine hook-up or if weather permits, outdoors. Install & use the pressure gauge to monitor system water pressure over at least a full 24-hour period. You don"t have to sleep by it.

If you select a pressure gauge with a re-settable "telltale" needle, the gauge"s re-settable indicator will indicate the highest pressure that has been reached by the water system since the water pressure test gauge was installed.

SeeMEASURE WATER SYSTEM PRESSURE & PRESSURE MAXIMUM for tips on how to make or buy an inexpensive recording-type water pressure test gauge for this purpose.

where we describe both hot water expansion tanks and hot water expansion relief valves designed to handle thermal water pressure increases and thus to stop dripping TP valves.

Watch out: get advice from a licensed plumber and your local water supplier. Never remove or plug a leaky pressure/temperature relief valve on a water heater - doing so risks dangerous or even fatal

See RELIEF VALVE LEAK DUE TO EXPANSION TANK where in a series of steps a homeowner figures out that a leaky TPR valve is due to the failure of the internal bladder of an expansion tank attached to the boiler.

If the building water pressure gauge reading is ever found at 80 psi or higher, you will want to install a water pressure regulator at the point where water supply enters the building.

If your building already has a water pressure gauge installed, it may be defective or it may be set too high. The articles listed just below discuss how to adjust a water pressure regulator:

An alternative to installing or changing a water pressure regulator when building water pressure is occasionally 80 psi or higher is the installation of an expansion tank to temporarily absorb that pressure increase.

Proper use of an expansion tank can help avoid unnecessary opening of the pressure/temperature relief valve on a hot water heating tank or a hot water heating boiler.

You go through alot of effort to explain how heated water expands and the resulting increase in pressure. All that is well and good for theory. In a domestic (North American) water supply system, to the best of my knowlege there is nothing to prevent the expanding water/pressure from the hot water heater from just backing up into the supply plumbing and hence the water pressure in the hot water heater would NEVER exceed the supply pressure. Or is there a required one way valve somewhere in the system I am not aware of say in the hot water heater?

Domestic water systems in most cities are required to have a backflow preventer or check valve on the system. So when no water is being run the system is in effect closed.

My original interest and intent was to show that the actual expansion in volume from heating water is actually very small. Nevertheless, on some systems, the water heater can cause enough of a pressure increase that some installations include a small water heater expansion tank.

Where expanding hot water pressure is causing trouble the common solution is the installation of a small expansion tank, usually on the hot water supply line above the water heater, though it could go almost anywhere so long as it"s not isolated from the heater by a shutoff valve.

Thermal expansion occurs as domestic water is heated. Left unchecked, the resulting pressure increase can cause relief valve discharge and other potentially hazardous conditions. Therm-X-Trol® expansion tanks absorb this expanded water, keeping water pressure at a safe level.

Water heater manufacturers and plumbing codes require the installation of an expansion control device if a backflow preventor, pressure reducing valve or check valve is installed in the domestic supply line.

Watch out: a leaky relief valve on a water heater, heating boiler, or any other closed vessel is dangerous. Leaks ultimately can lead to relief valve clogging, failure, and worse, BLEVE EXPLOSIONS. Beginning at RELIEF VALVE LEAKS we describe all of the causes of and cures for leaky relief valves or TP valves.

ANSI BS 7074-1:1989, Application, selection and installation of expansion vessels and ancillary equipment for sealed water systems. Code of practice for domestic heating and hot water supply (British Standard)

This standard covers the test methods and performance requirements applicable for waterheater supply shutoff valve with a thermal expansion control valves for use on closed plumbing systems.

This European Standard specifies, dimensions, materials and performance requirements (including methods of test) for expansion valves, of nominal sizes from DN 15 to DN 40, having working pressures 1) from 0,1 MPa (l bar) to 1,0 MPa (10 bar).Expansion valves are intended for fitting to the cold water supply of storage water heaters, having a maximum distribution temperature of 95 °C, for all energy sources.

Expansion valves do not control the temperature and alone does not constitute the protection required for storage water heaters. Expansion valves limit pressure, in the water heaters to what they are fitted, that is produced by thermal expansion of the water .NOTE : The use of the device specified in this Standard does not override the need to use controls (e.g. thermostats and cut-outs) which act directly on the power sources of water heaters.

"THERM-X-TROL® Water Heater Expansion Tanks", [web page] Amtrol,1400 Division Road, West Warwick RI USA 02983, Tel: 800-426-8765, Website: www.amtrol.com, retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/thermxtrol.html

"THERMAL EXPANSION TANKS for POTABLE WATER, Installation & Operation Instructions" [PDF], Models ST-5 through ST-201V & Models T-5 through T-12, Amtrol, Op. Cit., retrieved 2017/01/08, original source: http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/thermxtrol/9015087_06_16_Thermal_Expansion_Tank_IO_.pdf

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

the red-circled valve is a combination of cold water inlet shut-off valve and a drain intended to provide relief against excessive pressure in the water heater due to thermal expansion - as discussed on this page.

Similar products manufactured by Watts are described at WATER HEATER THERMAL EXPANSION PRODUCTS - WATTS [PDF] https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Watts-Thermal-Expansion-Products.pdf

My hot water tank has a Thermal Expansion Control Valve installed on the cold water intake line (rather than an expansion tank). In the past 2-3 days, I have noticed that there is a small amount of water constantly draining out of this Valve/Tube.

The leakage is constant, even during/after a long hot shower, which presumably would drain a lot of the hot water out of the tank and temporarily stop any thermal expansion/condensation. It is important to note that the T&P valve on the water heater itself is fine, there is no leak or release of pressure/water happening there.

(Why else would it still leak when the hot water tank is being drained and cold water is entering the tank?). Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this? I"m pretty sure I should be calling in for a repair, but unsure how urgent. (Am I at risk of a BLEVE explosion given the leak is constant, even when the tank should not be up to temp/pressure and even the pipe between the tank and the valve feels cold?).

It is possible on SOME water heaters to set the temperature above 210°F (99°C) but in my experience that would be unusual - you"d have probably scalded everyone using the hot water system.

1. It is already telling us that (usually) there is an unsafe condition such as pressure too high (water tank can blow up in a BLEVE explosion) or temperature too high (someone can be scalded - burned)

2. If it"s dripping just because the valve itself is old and defective the risk is that scale clogs the valve, it stops relieving, and then you"re missing a critical life-safety device.

the hot water heater has been shut down about one year , I lit the polite then went back a few hours later when I noticed the pressure relieve valve was spraying water out. so I shut the gas off. not sure what"s going on. ?

Continue reading at HOT WATER EXPANSION TANKS for a solution to thermal expansion leaks at relief valves on water heaters, or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.

THERMAL EXPANSION TPR VALVE LEAKS at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.

[1] "Residential Electric Water Heater Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide", American Water Heater Co., October 2001, American Water Heater Co., Johnson City, TN, [manufacturer of residential & commercial water heaters, also manufacturer of Polaris/Commercial water heaters], Tel: 800-999-9515, web search 1/12/2012, original source: americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/res-elect.pdf [copy on file] [Technical review requested 1/25/2011]

[3] Pounds of lime deposited vs. temperature and hot water usage: see Purdue Bulletin #74 (also provided by A.O. Smith in the article below). Purdue"s chart shows the number of pounds of lime deposited per year as a function of the water usage in gallons per day, with an assumed 10 grains of water hardness.

[4] "When, Why, and How to Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Glass-Lined Water Heaters (for non glass-lined tanks, consult water heater manufacturer)" PDF provided by A.O. Smith Water Products Company - hotwater.com/lit/training/4800r9.pdf 800-433-2545 - 01/07/2009.

[6] A.O. Smith"s Form No. 4778* All about Deliming Coil-Type/Tube-Type Commercial Water Heaters and Hydronic Boilers *Normally supplied when ordering Part No. 4930 Motorized Deliming Pump Kit

[7] "Building Owner Water Heater Safety Notice", Building Department, City of Colleyville TX, web search 09/24/2010, original source: http://www.colleyville.com/dmdocuments/Building%20

Water heater safety is imperative to the occupants of a building or structure. If improperly installed, water heaters can be detrimental to the structure, as well as being potentially fatal to its occupants. The proper installation of a water heater is so important that according to Texas State Law all water heater installations must be inspected by a state licensed plumbing inspector.

TECHNICAL REFERENCE GUIDE to manufacturer"s model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates

It can be all too easy to forget about your water heater when everything appears to be working correctly. However, a stuck or faulty pressure relief valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to reach dangerous levels — with potentially explosive results. Therefore, testing your water heater pressure relief valve should be at the top of your home maintenance checklist.

You don"t need to be a professional plumber to check your water heater"s safety mechanisms. With the right knowledge, even novice DIY-ers can test their water heater pressure relief valves.

A water heater pressure relief valve is exactly what it says on the tin: a safety mechanism that prevents excessive pressure from building up in your water heater"s tank. Without it, there would be a risk of the tank bursting and flooding your house. A bursting water tank can also cause serious injury and damage to your home"s structure, so keeping the pressure relief valve in good working order is essential.

Pressure inside your water tank occurs when the water expands and produces steam as it heats. The hotter the water, the greater the potential for high pressure. Although some pressure is normal and can escape through the pipes supplying your fixtures, the pressure relief valve activates when the pressure exceeds safe levels. It releases some hot water and steam until the pressure level normalizes.

A water heater pressure relief valve is a short, flat lever attached to a pipe running through the water heater. Its location varies depending on what water heater model you have, but you can usually find it above the tank or high up on one of the sides.

Sometimes, a water heater"s pressure relief valve can get stuck due to a build-up of deposits. Corrosion can also damage the valve and stop it from working correctly. A stuck or broken valve could allow the pressure inside your tank to exceed the safe limit, so it"s crucial to test it regularly.

You can test your water heater pressure relief valve by opening it slightly with a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Don"t force the valve open if you feel resistance. You"ll know that your valve is working properly if you can see or hear water and gas escaping. If you can"t see water escaping, or you can"t turn the valve easily, it"s time to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve. You should also call a plumber if you see signs that the valve is leaking, such as water pooling on the floor under the tank.

Sometimes, a water heater pressure relief valve will start leaking after you test it, even if the test shows that it"s working correctly. You can often solve this problem by gently opening and closing the valve a few times to remove any deposits stopping it from shutting. Call a plumber to check and repair the leak if this doesn"t work.

You should test your water heater pressure relief valve once or twice each year. The more often you check the valve, the higher the chances of detecting a problem early and preventing a costly leak or burst tank.

One of the most effective ways to prevent problems with your water heater"s pressure relief valve is to ensure that the drain line is installed correctly. It should angle downwards and match the valve"s exhaust port size to allow water to drain properly and prevent corrosion. It"s also essential to use a drain line made from heat-resist