hot water safety valve shower free sample

ECO-MIX ™ Leonard offers a range of Thermostatic Water Mixing Valve systems to provide mixed water within specific temperature and flow ranges for emergency shower applications, (ANSI Z358.1-2009) including Drench Showers, and Combination units. All Leonard models are factory assembled, tested and lead free compliant.

Thermostatic Water Mixing to meet mandated flow and temperature requirements for emergency showers Locked temperature setting of 85° F (29° C) Integral supply checkstops, wall supports Outlet piping with dial thermometer (range 0° to 140° F, -10° to 60° C) Built in cold water by-pass to allow cold water to flow in case of hot water failure Optional temperature override protection with secondary thermostatic valve to open cold water upon temperature rise over the set point. Optional, lockable cabinets, recessed or exposed, viewport These products are certified to meet Low Lead requirements of wetted surface area containing less than 0.25% lead by weight

Anti-scald valves, also known as tempering valves and mixing valves, mix cold water in with outgoing hot water so that the hot water that leaves a fixture is not hot enough to scald a person.

Unwanted temperature fluctuations are an annoyance and a safety hazard. When a toilet is flushed, for instance, cold water flows into the toilet’s tank and lowers the pressure in the cold-water pipes. If someone is taking a shower, they will suddenly feel the water become hotter as less cold water is available to the shower valve. By the same principle, the shower water will become colder when someone in the house uses the hot-water faucet. This condition is exacerbated by plumbing that’s clogged, narrow, or installed in showers equipped with low-flow or multiple showerheads. A sudden burst of hot water can cause serious burns, particularly in young children, who have thinner skin than adults. Also, a startling thermal shock – hot or cold – may cause a person to fall in the shower as he or she scrambles on the slippery surface to adjust the water temperature. The elderly and physically challenged are at particular risk.

Anti-scald valves mitigate this danger by maintaining water temperature at a safe level, even as pressures fluctuate in water supply lines. They look similar to ordinary shower and tub valves and are equipped with a special diaphragm or piston mechanism that immediately balances the pressure of the hot- and cold-water inputs, limiting one or the other to keep the temperature within a range of several degrees. As a side effect, the use of an anti-scald valve increases the amount of available hot water, as it is drawn more slowly from the water heater. Inspectors and homeowners may want to check with the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to see if these safety measures are required in new construction in their area.

Installation of anti-scald valves is typically simple and inexpensive. Most models are installed in the hot-water line and require a cold-water feed. They also require a swing check valve on the cold-water feed line to prevent hot water from entering the cold-water system. They may be installed at the water heater to safeguard the plumbing for the whole building, or only at specific fixtures.

The actual temperature of the water that comes out of the fixture may be somewhat different than the target temperature set on the anti-scald valve. Such irregularities may be due to long, uninsulated plumbing lines or defects in the valve itself. Users may fine-tune the valve with a rotating mechanism that will allow the water to become hotter or colder, depending on which way it’s turned. Homeowners may contact an InterNACHI inspector or a qualified plumber if they have further questions or concerns.

In summary, anti-scald valves are used to reduce water temperature fluctuations that may otherwise inconvenience or harm unsuspecting building occupants.

This 3 Way Brass Thermostatic Shower Mixing Valve for Solar Hot Water provides accurate and stable water temperature. It has a built-in bypass that allows cold water to flow through in a system failure, ensuring your family’s safety. This valve is ideal for solar hot water systems with durable brass construction. Order today and enjoy years of reliable service!

This Thermostatic Shower Mixing Valve for Solar Hot Water is a 3-way mixing valve for solar hot water systems. This is a brass thermostatic shower mixing valve with a temperature range of 60°C to 110°C. The valves are manufactured in Taiwan and are guaranteed to be made with high-quality materials. It is supplied complete with full instructions and can be installed by a competent plumber or heating engineer without difficulty.

The 3-Way Brass Thermostatic Shower Mixing Valve for Solar Hot Water is easy to install and use. The valve controls the flow of hot water from your solar heater, ensuring that no energy or money is wasted by unused heating water. You can also use this thermostatic valve with a regular boiler system. This product has various finishes, including brass, chrome, white, black, and gold.

If you are confused about Shower Valves you are not alone. We get asked questions everyday about shower mixing valves and rough in shower plumbing fixtures. A Shower Valve is not something most people think about on a daily basis, but here at FaucetList.com, it"s our business to know about this stuff. Therefore we"ve decided to write this article to educate you about Shower Rough In Valves.

For detailed specifics on Shower Rough-in Valves, just keep reading! For a more general guide to showers check out our: Complete Guide to Delta Shower Faucets.

At FaucetList.com we offer many styles of shower faucet for sale on our site. Typically in any full renovation or new home build you will need to purchase both a Shower Trim Kit and Shower Valve. Many of our showers are sold complete with the trim kit and valve. This makes ordering easy and guarantees you will be buying compatible parts.

Customers often ask us about the difference between two shower fixtures that appear the same, but have a different price. Almost always the difference is related to the shower rough in valve part that is included with each. Throughout this article you"ll see a some examples of the exact same shower trim kit sold with either the valve with stops or the valve without stops. This allows you the ability to order whichever item you feel best suits your requirements.

Once your new home construction or bathroom renovation project is long since completed, you may wish you had given a little more thought to which rough-in valve the plumber installed in your wall. Why do you ask? Well lots of issues can come up later when home owners make uninformed decisions about the rough-in valve they install. And once your shower is all tiled up, changing or repairing the valve can get expensive real quick.

I know it"s a little boring and you"re probably overwhelmed with decisions. But this one might matter just a little more than a decision such as whether white, bone, cream, or off-white is best color for your light switches. That type of thing is easy to change later so what you choose now doesn"t matter as much. A replacement rough-in valve for your shower is anything but easy to change. So take a moment and make an educated decision about this particular fixture. You won"t regret it.

So let"s get right into it. A Rough Valve is a REQUIRED PART OF EVERY SHOWER. Most people don"t necessarily know what it is because it installs inside the wall and you never actually see it. Although hidden from sight, the valve serves a very important function.

The rough-in shower mixer valve is the part of your shower that connects up with the hot and cold water lines in your home. A Shower valve body rough in kit is the brass fixture inside the shower wall where the hot and cold water gets mixed to a comfortable warm temperature, perfect for your morning shower. Once the hot and cold water is mixed, the shower rough in valve sends it out to the showerhead or tub spout. Where it goes depends on the style of shower trim kit you have.

Regardless of the shower trim kit style, the valve fixture basically does the same thing. It mixes hot and cold water to create warm water suitable for your shower. Most shower rough-in valves have 4 ports. 2 inlets for the hot and cold water pipes, and two outlets, one for tub spout and one for showerhead. If you have tub and shower combination trim kit you will use the top outlet port to supply the showerhead and the bottom outlet port to supply the tub spout. If your bathroom has a separate bathtub and you need a shower only faucet function, the Rough valve"s bottom outlet port is be plugged.

You will sometimes see a Shower rough in Valve with Stops referred to as having screwdriver stops or integral stops. They also can be called Shower Valves with Shut off Stops. All of these terms are basically interchangeable. They reference shut-off devices built into the shower valve. Not all rough-in Valves have stops. They are not actually necessary in all installations. Keep reading to learn about use cases where you would want to have a valve with stops.

To access the stops, you first must remove the shower trim kit. Once it is removed you will see the stops near where the hot and cold water lines enter the valve through the inlets. Typically, all you need to do to turn the stops is get a screwdriver and rotate. Different manufacturers might work differently but it should be pretty obvious and easy to turn the stops and shut off the flow of water to the valve. Make sure to turn off both the hot and cold sides!

Typically the way you turn the shut off stops is with a screw driver. Hence the reason they are sometimes called screwdriver stops. They are pretty manual. Using a screwdriver to turn the stop interrupts the flow of water to the valve. You have one stop on the cold side and one on the hot side. The supply stop will stop turning when it is fully closed, and will remain water-tight.

Let"s say your home has 4 bathrooms. You notice that one of your Showers is leaking. Time to call the plumber! Well once the plumber arrives, the first step to repairing a shower faucet is turning off the water. If the individual leaking Shower Valve has no accessible shut-off stops to allow the plumber to isolate that particular shower faucet, it will require them to use a stop further down the line. This might mean they need to turn the water off at the main shut-off valve. This is disadvantageous, as it will turn off the water to the entire house.

So one Shower Valve with a problem has now required the plumber to shut off the water to all your other bathrooms, your kitchen, your hose, toilets, everything. Not good!

A Shower Rough in with Stops solves this problem. In the same scenario, if your leaky Shower Faucet had a valve with stops, the process would be much simpler. The plumber would remove the trim kit, and use the integral screwdriver stops to stop the water flow to the individual leaky shower. While he is making repairs, the rest of the house will continue to have water as normal. This is better for you! While the plumber fixes the leak you will continue to be able to live as normal in the rest of the house.

Think of a situation where the plumber needs to go out and get a part to fix your shower and the water will need to be off for a few hours. What if the plumber can"t get the part today!? If you had the valve with stops you can just refrain from using that particular shower. So what? Use another bathroom, no big deal. If you don"t have a valve with stops, you might be forced to go without water in your home for an extended period. If you"ve ever been camping you know that without running water many things become significantly more difficult. No shower valve stops might have you running for the in-laws or a night in a hotel.

So if you had the choice, why not go with the valve with stops? If your wall is open you have the freedom to choose whatever style valve you want. A little careful consideration at this moment can save you a lot of trouble later.

Think of stops as a specific shut off unit for each individual shower in your home. They allow you to turn off the water to that specific shower instead of to the entire house. This is convenient for future maintenance and repairs. The small additional up-front cost pays for itself in terms of time and hassle saved should a problem ever arise.

Well this depends. We"ve outlined the use case for a single family home. To be honest though with a high-quality valve you may never need the stops. Even if you do need them, most of the time a shower valve repair will only take an hour or two. It"s not the end of the world for the water main to be shut off during that time. Let"s say every 10 years you needed to turn the water off for 2 hours. I think it wouldn"t be much of an issue.

Where shower valve stops become essential (and sometimes required) are in multi-family complexes. In condos and duplexes, installing a valve with stops is a no-brainer. You don"t want one unit"s leaky shower to cause everyone in the complex to not have water. In a large apartment building with 100 units, you"ll probably have someone with a leaky shower every few weeks. It would not be acceptable for the tenants to lose their water that often. In this installation scenario stops are a must.

Yes! Shower rough in valves without stops are by far the most common. They work absolutely as well in every way. The benefit of stops only has to do with repair and maintenance of the shower valve. It"s much more common in single family homes to find Shower valves without stops. Often builders choose a valve without stops since they know it"s not going to make a huge difference and they can save a little money. However, if you are buying the fixtures for your home and have the option to get the valve with stops we recommend you do so. The cost difference is minimal.

Some plumbers don"t like to use valves with stops in them. They will try to tell you that by the time it is necessary to actually use the shut-off valves that they won"t seal properly any longer. Their opinion is that shower valve problems are so few and far between (we"re talking many years) that the rubber gaskets in the stops may be of no use once they get too old. We do not share this opinion. We have seen way too many situations where having stops turned out to be very useful. Especially in commercial applications, valve stops are used all the time.

A poor quality shower valve could be a crucial point of weakness in your home"s plumbing. Leaks, and in worse cases flooding, often begin at the shower rough-in valve. The reason being, the valve is hidden behind the tile. This means you won"t necessarily be aware of a problem until it"s too late. With a bathroom sink faucet you will be easily able to notice dripping. This would indicate a seal might have failed or that a crack is forming. With a shower valve you"ll never really know what is going on since you can"t see it.

Therefore it"s important to go with a reputable brand when you purchase your shower. Almost all major brands are a safe bet. It"s tempting to look at the cheap imported showers for sale online. But we recommend not skimping when it comes to your shower. You can go for a less expensive sink faucet but please consider the worst case when it comes to your shower.

If the valve fails and your home floods, major damage is likely to occur. Most major brands have flood insurance that protects you against this kind of catastrophic failure. Good choices include well-known brands like Delta, Moen, Kohler, Grohe, HansGrohe, Price Pfister, American Standard, and others. Look for a brand with a lifetime warranty. Also, look for a brand with a name you recognize. This gives you a better chance they"ll still be around down the line if you ever need help.

Delta shower rough in valves are a great choice for many reasons. We are a big fan of their universal installation capabilities. We are also a fan of having a large company standing behind the valve in an important place like the shower.

In addition to the catastrophic situation of a flood, it"s important to choose a high quality valve so you are unlikely to have to deal with a replacement in the future. However, in the case that your shower valve does fail and needs to be replaced, it"s very important that you are able to still contact the company who made it. This allows you access to replacement parts and warranty service. It also means you will likely be able to replace just the shower valve, rather than having to replace your entire shower.

The Shower Valve you install in your wall is an important thing to consider. If you have the walls open, you can choose any valve you like so why not go with something high-quality? Don"t let the plumber or contractor pressure you into getting a cheap shower valve from a big box store. Don"t go shopping online looking for deals and order something from a no name import brand. Get a Shower rough-in valve with a warranty and big company that stands behind it. When deciding on a Shower rough in with Stops or without Stops take a minute to consider your use case. If you live in a single family home and are trying to keep costs down, the Valve without Stops is likely fine. If you are in a multi-family complex, definitely go with the version with stops. Remember though, Stops have some benefits even in a single family home. And you can"t change your mind once the valves are in the wall and the tiles are up. For a small increase in price you may find the benefits of Shower Valves with Stops outweigh the very minor increase in price (around $20-30 depending on brand).

Remember, when shopping for a shower faucet you need to purchase both a trim kit and a rough-in valve. This guide was designed to assist you with understanding the difference between a rough-in valve with stops and one without stops. If you are having trouble figuring out which trim kits go with with rough-in valves, we have made this easy by creating handy packages that contain both parts. Guaranteed compatible, we make shopping easy! Take a look at our many great complete shower faucets and order today!

At FaucetList.com we are big fans of the Delta brand. The valve is just one of several major components found in a shower. We recommend you check out another article we wrote that contains tons of useful information about Delta Shower Faucets. We have over 40 years" experience in the plumbing industry so if you still need help feel free to Contact us! You are also welcome to ask your question in the comment section below.

Thank you for your question. The cartridges come with the Integrated valve trim kits that are available for the Delta R22000 rough valve. Here are links to these valve trim kits:

https://www.deltafaucet.com/bathroom/showering/tub-and-shower-faucets?categories=Delta_Bathroom_Showering_Tub+and+Shower+Faucets_Shower+Valve+with+Diverter

We will be having a rain can style shower head (RP52382-SS with RP61273) with a separate slide bar hand shower (57014-SS) and would like to know if this is the correct valve to accomplish this.

Thank you for your question. The R22000 rough valve will work to turn on your water and divert your water from shower head to handshower to raincan shower unit. Here is a link to the trim kits that work with this valve body:

Remodeling my shower to use shower head, ceiling rain fall and hand held head. No tub and want to use each one individually. what do i need? r22000 or 10000 plus 11000 diverter and what cartridge 3 0r 6 way. HELP!!!

Thank you for your question. For your installation, you could use an R22000 as it does not have a tub spout port, with a six setting integrated diverter trim. You could also use an R10000-UNBXHF valve which also does not have a tub spout port, along with an R11000 diverting valve and matching six setting diverter trim. A six setting cartridge will allow you to use each product individually as well as offering shared positions. I will include some examples below.

I understand that temp assure is a thermostatic valve and the monitor valve is pressure static, does this result in one valve having better water pressure as the hot water supply dwindles during the shower?

Thank you for your question. The thermostatic valve will give out 8.6 gpm while the pressure balance valve will give off 6.8 gpm. Both units will have the best flow rate while on at the hot/cold mix. Both units water flow will dwindle if you have the water on at all hot or even on all cold.

Thank you for your inquiry, David! The Delta R22000 MultiChoice Universal Integrated Shower Diverter Rough valve will accommodate our Delta T2 integrated trim kits and would be able to run three showering units separately and also two at a time. This unit is not designed for all three showering units to run at the same time.

Thanks for your inquiry! The rough-in valve would need to be flushed with the finished wall so that the trim parts will seat properly on the valve and against the outer wall. The screws for the back plate and escutcheon trim plate would need to be able to connect to the R22000 valve body.

I have a shower where I want to install a integrated universal shower valve and diverter. I will have a shower head above the valves and a hand shower. I want to operate the two individually and do not one them to come on at the same time. Options??

Thank you for your inquiry! A shower head and hand shower can be installed/used with the Delta Integrated Rough-In Valve R22000 and trim of your choice. You would need to purchase the non-shared 3-Function Diverter Cartridge RP71717 for type of installation.

Few things are more frustrating than looking forward to awarm, relaxing showerafter a long day, and instead having to endure an oscillating stream of scalding and glacial water because something to do with the temperature is all messed up. But before you go tearing yourshower headout of the wall and calling up a plumber, there are a few things you can do to hopefully get your water temperature back to normal. Here they are, per Paul Abrams, ofRoto-Rooter, andBailey Carson, of Handy, an online marketplace for cleaning, installation and other home services.

Wait a WhileThe most obvious cause of fluctuating water temperatures, according to Abrams, is simply “running low on hot water from the water heater.” He says, “This happens if you’re last in line for a shower at your house, or if you have an undersized water heater. One thing I learned at my in-laws’ house is that my father-in-law likes to stick it to The Man and remove the water flow restrictor in the shower head, which means water is pushing through much faster than it’s supposed to, and it quickly depletes the supply of hot water in the tank. When hot water starts running out, we users tend to turn the handle to a hotter setting in desperation, and we get very hot or very cold water and decreased bandwidth in the warm range.” So, if someone showered before you, wait a little while so the water heater can fill back up.

Adjust Your Mixing Valve/Scald Guard“In most instances, your scald guard — a plastic disk with notches — simply needs to be adjusted,” says Carson. “To adjust the water valves and scald guard, the single handle can be easily removed by loosening the screws with a wrench and lifting from the faucet. You’ll want to adjust the dial of the temperature controls accordingly to balance out the hot and cold water valves.” You can see exactly how this is done, with two different kinds of knobs, in the videos below.

Abrams warns, however, that you should take it slow when adjusting your scald guard, or else you could end up making the water temperature dangerously hot. “It’s important to note that faucets are set at the factory to a safe setting to prevent scalding, which is especially important to remember if you have babies, children and elderly people in the house,” he says. “This adjustment is the last safety device to prevent you from scalding yourself, and it was no doubt put in place after some expensive lawsuits were filed against faucet manufacturers. If you adjust this device, do so in one or two tiny increments at a time, then test the water temperature with your hand. Being a tough guy and pushing the setting all the way to the hot setting is a recipe for disaster, especially if your water heater is already set too hot — water heaters should be set to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, but many people crank them up much higher.”

Replace the Faucet Cartridge AltogetherIf, when you go to tweak the scald guard, you notice that the whole thing is looking worn down, you should probably go ahead and replace the whole cartridge. “With usage and time, these cartridges will fail,” Abrams says. “If your shower has no warm range, but goes from very hot to very cold, it’s probably time to replace that faucet cartridge. Many manufacturers guarantee their cartridges for life, and they’ll ship you a new cartridge for free. However, switching out the cartridge isn’t something every person is willing to try. Often, it’s a simple job, but if the cartridge is crusted over with hard water deposits, or it’s been in there for years, getting it out with a pliers can prove to be very difficult.”

So, if changing the cartridge yourself is too much trouble, as Carson says, “Let a professional handyman handle it for you.” Which will be especially necessary if you did end up tearing your shower head out of the wall, after all.

In a nutshell, there are three differenttypes of shower valveson the market: pressure balancing shower valve, thermostatic shower valve and diverter shower valve. Don’t skip through this section onhow to choose a shower valve, because you’ll likely end up with something that doesn’t suit your needs.

That’s because you didn’t have apressure balancing shower valve! Depending on how old you are, they may not have been in existence at the time. Today it is plumbing code to have pressure balancing in your home - making it one of the most importanttypes of shower valves.

What you experienced is cold water being pulled away from the shower to the toilet, dropping the level of cold water while keeping the amount of hot water the same - resulting in scalding hot water in the shower. Pressure balancing shower valves can sense these pressure changes in the hot and cold lines and partially close down one side to continue to deliver a consistent water temperature.

These valves can require more frequent maintenance, as the internal cartridge balancing the pressure usually has a spool in it that can get locked up over time due to scale and heavy mineral deposits. That will inevitably cause your valve to not produce a consistent water temperature until you get apressure balance shower valve replacement cartridge. But that’s a small price to pay for safety.

Pro-Tip: Most manufacturer’s back up their valve cartridges, and other parts, with a Limited Lifetime Warranty. So when in need of a part or troubleshooting, contact the manufacturer’s product support line to get to the bottom of the issue and the free parts necessary to make the repair. Read more here: https://www.theshowerheadstore.com/blogs/news/shower-head-faucet-warranty-information

One of the commonpressure balancing valve problemsis that there isn’t the ability to control the volume of water. So when you turn on the shower it starts at the coldest temperature at full water pressure. There are certain valves that offer temperature memory and volume control but you need to know exactly what to look for. Hang around until the recommendations section, and I’ll give you some good options.

When choosing betweentypes of shower valves, you also need to know how many shower heads you will be using for your project. Pressure balancing valves are good for one to two shower heads at most, as they are equipped with standard sized ½” water inlets. As for larger showers with more shower heads and body sprays, you’ll need a different valve type because this ain’t gonna cut it.

Thermostatic shower valvesoperate in a similar manner as pressure balancing valves, with respect to maintaining a consistent water temperature even when other appliances are running water in the house.

Sohow do thermostatic shower valves work? Unlike a pressure balancing valve that uses a spool to control pressure changes,thermostatic shower valvesuse...well...a thermostat that regulates the temperature. This is a much more precise way to control the water temperature. You can literally control the temperature down to a degree, while with pressure balancing valves you’ll be sticking your hand in and out of the shower to find the “right” temperature.

Once you pinpoint the exact temperature that you want for your shower, you never have to deviate from it. That’s becausethermostatic shower valveshave a dial for the temperature and a separate control for the water volume. Again, with most pressure balancing valves, once you shut off the water you lose the temperature “memory”.

Because of this design, thermostatic valves are one of the besttypes of shower valvesfor larger showers with multiple shower heads and/or body sprays. This is due to the fact that they typically have at least ¾” water inlets, allowing more water to flow through the valve to the multiple devices being used.

The previous twotypes of shower valvesare “main” shower valves that control the flow and temperature.Diverter shower valves, on the other hand, are optional valves that divert the flow of water between multiple shower heads. So, if you are only planning on using one shower head, you can skip using ashower valve with diverter.

Diverter valves are IN ADDITION to the main rough-in shower valve. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen clients buy diverter valves thinking that they were the main shower valve, only to be sadly disappointed when passing it along to their plumber...leading to project setbacks.

You’ll find these diverters installed just above the main shower valve with their own separate control. For pressure balancing valves, you’ll only ever need one of these diverter valves (as you’ll only be able to use up to two shower heads). For thermostatic shower valves, you can have multiple diverters to control all of your shower heads and body sprays. Typically, for thermostatic valves you need one diverter per shower head or spray.

Pro tip: When shopping for diverter valves, keep an eye out for2-way diverter shower valvesand3-way diverter shower valves. A 2-way valve means that you can divert water between two shower heads, whereas a 3-way valve can run water to those independent shower heads or to both at the same time. I’d always opt for the 3-way! Forthermostatic shower valves, you’ll typically need one diverter per shower head or spray.

Value bomb: If you want to save money on your project, or aren’t touching the rough plumbing in the wall, you can elect to use an external shower diverter. This type of diverter installs onto your shower arm and operates the same way, diverting water up to two different shower heads.

I wanted to take a brief pause here for a PSA before moving along. Please talk to your plumber about thetypes of shower valvesyou may need for your project and make sure you are on the same page before proceeding any further.

This is an important question to ask before spending too long exploring the differenttypes of shower valves. Make sure you even need to provide a shower valve for your project. Two instances come to mind where you normally wouldn’t have to.

The plumber intends on keeping the same valve in the wall.In that case, I would give you a word of warning. If the valve is not apressure balancing shower valve, make sure that he (or she - I know some badass female plumbers too!) changes it out to bring the shower up to code. If it is up to code and you decide to keep it, determine the brand and valve name so you can find the right shower trim to go along with it. (For example: Moen (brand) Posi-Temp (valve name).

The plumber intends on providing the valve.Some plumbers have preferred valves and will install one without even consulting you. (Of course the best plumbers will inform you, but let’s not assume anything.) If this is the case, and you are comfortable with that, confirm the brand and valve name so you can get the compatible trim (which I’ll discuss later), same as in the previous instance.

Iron Pipe Straight (IPS), also known as 1/2" NPT, connections are threaded connections on the valve, where the plumber would attach an adapter to the valve before soldering the copper pipe into the adapter.

Those are just some of the connection types, which is why it’s so important to consult with a plumber first before going on a shower valve shopping spree.

Are you installing a walk-in shower or a tub/shower combo? That’s important to know, because there are 3- and 4-port shower valves. A three-port valve will have one for hot, one for cold and one port up to the shower head. A four-port valve will additionally have a port down to the tub spout.

Remember, a plumber can always cap a forth port on a valve if you only need three but he can’t create a fourth port if you only provide a three port valve. So know what you need before you buy one of thetypes of shower valves.

They allow you to shut off the water to the valve so you can repair it without having to shut the main water source off. If you live in a building with multiple other residents, this could mean that you would have to shut off the water to the building or floor before you can fix your valve, which will take some time to get approved by the building’s superintendent. Even if you just live in a single family home, with these check stops you can work on the valve without stopping your washer from running water...you get the point.

I think they are worth it to have for the little extra cost of the upgrade. They can mean the difference between getting your valve repaired in a few hours or a few days.

Plumbing Codes:There are a lot of Chinese sellers on sites like Amazon selling nice looking shower systems, but they may not be up to code with American plumbing standards and/or not have compatible fittings with American plumbing systems.

Reliability:Should you ever have an issue, like your shower valve leaking, having purchased a national brand with a reputable customer support team will save you a major headache. Repair parts are easy to get a hold of, whether it’s for free through their limited lifetime warranty or at your local hardware store if it’s really time sensitive. With off-brand products, it may be very hard to find repair parts. And when you are talking about shower valves that are installed in your wall, that could mean the difference between being able to fix your existing valve and having to open up the wall to remove the entire defective valve, all because you couldn’t get your hands on replacement parts.

Sure, there are dozens of brands to choose from, but these are the most reputable American brands that the majority of plumbers know and trust. While an experienced plumber can install anytype of shower valve, the more foreign or complex the project, the longer the project will take and that means more money out of your pocket.

Just like there are differenttypes of shower valves, there are different types of shower trim kits too. So don’t assume that just because you buy a valve that you’ll get a trim or vice versa.

Although Home Depot and Lowes, for example, sell kits that include both the valve and matching trim, that’s more of the exception than the rule. These big box store sets are usually very cheaply made with plastic components, and don’t offer much in the way of shower head performance.

I’ve written a previous article on this topic that dives into more of the fashion plumbing side, instead of the rough-in shower valve topic that we are covering here.

Simply put, you cannot use any old shower trim with anytype of shower valve. The trim is the decorative escutcheon plate and handle that you see and touch, which controls the valve inside the wall. Like a car, where you wouldn"t use Mercedes-Benz parts on a Toyota, the same applies to shower valves and trims.

And it even goes a step further. Brands, such as Moen and Kohler, even have differenttypes of shower valvesthat require specific types of trims. So you cannot just assume that “oh, I have a Moen valve, any Moen trim kit will work.” You must identify both the brand name and valve type before selecting your trim kit.

Here are our top picks for the differenttypes of shower valves, factoring everything that we’ve discussed above. To keep it simple, we’ve selected our favorite valve and recommended a couple of trims to keep things simple. However, brands typically offer 10-20 different styles of trims for each of their valves, so you can do your own research if you find that these styles aren’t necessarily your cup of tea.

Year after year, your water heater serves an important role in your home. Your morning routine just wouldn’t be the same—or nearly as comfortable—without hot water. Yet, water heaters and their components do not last forever. Preventative maintenance is the key to ensuring that your water heater continues to safely provide your home with hot water. In this article, we’ll review a critical safety component of your water heater, the water heater pressure-relief valve.

If your water heater has stopped working, fill out the form to schedule a free VIP plumbing inspection here in the Chicago area. Our plumbers are available 24/7 to help you and your home!

The name is actually quite literal. It’s a valve that relieves excess pressure in the water heater tank. By doing so, it can prevent excess pressure buildup that has the potential to cause a tank burst and flood your home. It’s an unheralded but essential safety mechanism for your water heater.

As your water heater heats up the water in the tank, the water expands and steam is generated. The greater the heat, the more expansion that occurs. This expansion puts pressure on the exterior walls of the tank, but this is to be expected. Some degree of excess pressure escapes through the water pipes connected to the water heater. In the event that it cannot, the pressure-relief valve triggers. By releasing some of the hot water and air, the valve lowers the pressure back down to safe levels.

If the pressure-relief valve is unable to open, the pressure can continue to build inside of the tank past that 100 PSI ceiling. The heavy metal tank can withstand a lot of pressure buildup, but it eventually has its limits. The results are explosive, as the tank gives way, sending hot water flooding outward.

If your water heater has an emergency shutoff valve installed, the burst will be detected and the water supply will automatically shutoff. If not, you’re potentially looking at a flooded home with significant and costly water damage.

So, what causes the pressure-relief valve to fail? In many cases, the valve gets stuck or frozen in place due to the buildup of rust and corrosion inside the tank. Or, the valve is stuck due to a prior instance in which it released hot water.

A broken valve is something that should be fixed right away, but—unless you’re examining your water heater closely on a regular basis—may not be something most homeowners notice. That’s why regular testing and maintenance is important.

We recommend that homeowners here in Chicago test their pressure-relief valve when they flush out their water heater twice every year. Bundling your water heater maintenance tasks together makes sense, since each of these tasks takes about 10 minutes to complete.

Start by positioning a large bucket underneath the valve. You are going to release some hot water during this process, so you want to make sure you’re wearing safe clothes to reduce a scalding risk. Remove the drain pipe attached to the pressure valve.

Then, gently lift the valve switch so that hot water begins to come out of the valve and into the bucket. For the purposes of this test, don’t push the switch all the way up.

So long as water and air are coming out of the water heater during this test, your water heater pressure-relief valve is working as intended. On the other hand, if you’ve flipped the switch up and you’re not seeing any release, that could indicate a problem with the valve.

Did you know that most people use between 80 and 100 gallons of water every day? From using the restroom and showering to cooking and cleaning, your water usage is a crucial part of your daily home routine. Here are just a few daily tasks most homeowners do without thinking, and the corresponding amount of water it takes to complete them: Flushing a toilet: 1-3 gallons per flush

This doesn’t take into account washing your hands, taking a bath, or watering your lawn. Your water use may also skyrocket during the summer, when you’re drinking more water or cooling off in the sprinklers.

Taking all this into account, it’s crucial that your water systems are working at their full capacity. Your water heater delivers hot water to your home, and your water pressure needs to be sufficient for your appliances to work and for your showers to be comfortable.

For all your daily tasks to run smoothly, water pressure is especially important. Imagine not having enough water pressure to flush a toilet or take a shower. There are other consequences to having water pressure that is too high.

To get your water pressure checked and adjusted by a professional, call the team at King Heating, Cooling, & Plumbing in Chicago, Illinois. We’re the experts on all home systems and can make sure your home is running at 100% capacity.

It’s been a long day at work, and you want to come home, take a hot shower, and relax with the family. You turn on the shower to see a small stream of water—or droplets—coming from the shower head. Even when you turn the shower handle to full capacity, only a small amount of water drips out. What’s the problem?

Your water pressure is likely too low. This can be an annoying setback for many homeowners, who depend on high water pressure to shower, clean, cook, and more. How can you properly shower or wash your hands when only a few drops are coming out of the faucet?

On the opposite side of the water pressure spectrum, high water pressure can pose a danger to you and your family inside the home. When water pressure is too high, pipes can become damaged and systems can overwork themselves to bring that water to you. It’s just like the tale of Goldilocks and the Three Bears: you don’t want your water pressure too low or too high—you want it just right.

Low water pressure is usually just a nuisance to homeowners and doesn’t pose a serious problem. High water pressure, on the other hand, can damage fixtures, seals, joints, and more. Water pressure that’s too high can also waste a lot of water in the home, leaving you with a higher utility bill at the end of the month.

As it comes from the municipal water supply to your home, residential water generally ranges from 40 to 80 PSI (pounds per square inch). Anything above or below this range could be considered too low or too high. Some experts will say that any level above 60 PSI is too high of water pressure for your home. It’s best to speak with a professional plumber to get your water pressure checked and to learn more about what level is right for your home. Your PSI range can be affected by elevation, house size, water needs, age of your home, and other factors.

If you haven’t checked your water pressure level in a while, it may be time to call King for a free VIP plumbing inspection. Even if you feel your water pressure and water heater are working great, there could be hidden efficiency problems lurking underneath the surface, such as a water heater that is running too hot and wasting energy. Only a true plumbing professional can get to the bottom of the issue and help you save money, month-over-month.

This goes without saying, but if you’re not comfortable flushing your water heater or checking the valve, don’t just ignore this crucial maintenance need. Give our team a call and have us out to your home to perform this service for you. Remember, this preventative maintenance can help prevent a tank burst and major water damage.

This section is designed to provide a basic overview of all of Moen"s shower valve options to help identify which valve you are working with, as well as troubleshooting information.

M-CORE Universal Valves give consumers more freedom in terms of showering functionality and style in new construction or remodel projects. Now, Moen is introducing NEW! 2-Series trim options for the M-CORE Valve System. 2-Series trim offers temperature control capabilities and is pressure-balanced, while the 3-Series trim offers both temperature and volume control. Mixing Valve cartridges are included in both the 2-Series and 3-Series trim options, and they’re interchangeable; opening up limitless design possibilities for homeowners.

M-CORE Universal Valves give consumers more freedom in terms of showering functionality and style in new construction or remodel projects. Now, Moen is introducing NEW! 2-Series trim options for the M-CORE Valve System. 2-Series trim offers temperature control capabilities and is pressure-balanced, while the 3-Series trim offers both temperature and volume control. Mixing Valve cartridges are included in both the 2-Series and 3-Series trim options, and they’re interchangeable; opening up limitless design possibilities for homeowners.

M-CORE Universal Valves give consumers more freedom in terms of showering functionality and style in new construction or remodel projects. Now, Moen is introducing NEW! 2-Series trim options for the M-CORE Valve System. 2-Series trim offers temperature control capabilities and is pressure-balanced, while the 3-Series trim offers both temperature and volume control. Mixing Valve cartridges are included in both the 2-Series and 3-Series trim options, and they’re interchangeable; opening up limitless design possibilities for homeowners.

M-CORE Universal Valves give consumers more freedom in terms of showering functionality and style in new construction or remodel projects. Now, Moen is introducing NEW! 2-Series trim options for the M-CORE Valve System. 2-Series trim offers temperature control capabilities and is pressure-balanced, while the 3-Series trim offers both temperature and volume control. Mixing Valve cartridges are included in both the 2-Series and 3-Series trim options, and they’re interchangeable; opening up limitless design possibilities for homeowners.

M-CORE Universal Valves give consumers more freedom in terms of showering functionality and style in new construction or remodel projects. Now, Moen is introducing NEW! 2-Series trim options for the M-CORE Valve System. 2-Series trim offers temperature control capabilities and is pressure-balanced, while the 3-Series trim offers both temperature and volume control. Mixing Valve cartridges are included in both the 2-Series and 3-Series trim options, and they’re interchangeable; opening up limitless design possibilities for homeowners.

Every shower has a valve that acts like an engine — shifting flow, regulating temperature and driving performance — and there are many options of design, functionality and operation suited to different applications.

The valve is placed behind the wall and connects directly to the hot and cold water lines to regulate flow and temperature. Most valves are available in a variety of connection types. A cartridge inserted into the valve connects to the external trim handles to control the mixture of hot and cold water and flow through the faucet based on the handle position.

With any Moen valve, you can be certain of unsurpassed safety, comfort and reliability since our valves meet applicable pressure-balancing or thermostatic safety codes and eliminate worry about hot or cold water surges. Plus, you can rely on our quality construction and dependable operation since each valve is backed by our Limited Lifetime Warranty.Product Line

Flexible installation options including copper, CPVC, crimp ring PEX, cold expansion PEX, and IPS. Valve options include quarter-turn stops to prevent the necessity to shut off water at the main line.

M-CORE Transfer Valves can control 2 or 3 showering devices, a simple transfer cartridge modification changes the valve’s flow from two outlets to three outlets

IMPORTANT: When using 3 Showering Devices, transfer valve cartridge must be modified. Simple cartridge modification changes the valves flow from two outlets to three outlets. See Transfer Valve Instructions for additional information

M-CORE valves, with 3-Series trim, have pressure-balancing capabilities designed to control temperature fluctuations in the event of water pressure changes in the home

M-CORE’S adaptability allows the valves to be roughed-in with the option of functionality and style changes that don"t require removing or changing the valve(s)

Used in showers ranging from single-head to vertical spa when combined with volume control valves including the ExactTemp Volume Control Transfer Valve. Hot and cold inlets feed water through valve unit.

This transfer valve can be used in combination with the ExactTemp 3/4" Thermostatic Valve to add volume control to ExactTemp"s precise temperature control. Additional volume-control valves can be added to support handshowers, body sprays and other functions.

Designed for two-outlet applications. Activates individual outlets for body sprays, handshowers or an extra showerhead. Two-function equals two independent functions. Three-function equals two independent and one shared function.Learn More

Installation is easy due to the valve"s compact size and flexible placement within 6 feet of a GFCI outlet. A 30-foot waterproof data cable connects the valve and controller.

Installation is easy due to the valve"s compact size and flexible placement within 6 feet of a GFCI outlet. A 30-foot waterproof data cable connects the valve and controller.

Protects users from "shower shock" due to a sudden change in either hot- or cold-water pressure elsewhere in the plumbing system (i.e., toilet flush). Pressure-balancing valves are designed to detect the pressure drop and automatically adjust the flow of water to maintain a consistent water temperature.

A thermostatic mixing valve (TMV) bridges the hot water in your system and the water that comes out of taps or showers. It keeps your hot water system safe in a couple of ways, and can keep you safe, making it a crucial part of your home plumbing that your local plumber should always check.

First, it allows your system to store water at a high enough temperature to keep bacteria at bay. However, it also regulates the temperature of the water that you use.

When you turn on a tap or shower that connects to a TMV set-up, then the valve controls the release of hot water. Typically, it mixes hot and cold water together to reach a set temperature as dictated by its thermostat setting set by a plumber with a TMV licence. So, your water should never run so hot that it could scald or burn

When all is well, the TMV works seamlessly. However, it might develop problems that prevent it from working as it should. What are the signs that your valve has a fault?

If a TMV valve stops working correctly, then you may notice that your hot water suddenly starts to run hotter than it should. If the valve can’t regulate temperature correctly, it might not be able to cool hot water down enough to make it safe.

However, excess heat isn’t the only sign of trouble here. Sometimes, a failing TMV makes the water too cold. Or, water may not run at the right temperature consistently. It may fluctuate between being hot and cold.

Changes in water temperature have various causes. For example, the valve may be blocked or may have moved out of position. The thermostatic element might have stopped working or might have a problematic O-ring. Or, you might have a problem with water pressure or flow through the valve.

Sometimes, the first sign of a TMV problem is a change in the way your water comes out of a tap. Typically, you see a reduction in flow or pressure here.

For example, your water might start to run sluggishly and slowly all the time. You might struggle to get the tap to give out more than a trickle of water. Or, your water might switch between working normally and running at a reduced pressure or flow.

Again, these problems can have various causes. Sometimes, water can’t run through a TMV freely because parts of its valves are gummed up with debris or scale. Older valves might also suffer from corrosion which blocks them up. Or, a valve might not have been fitted correctly in the first place.

If you have problems with a TMV, then you sometimes see outward signs that all isn’t well. For example, water might seep out of parts of the valve; you may even see some water on the floor under it. This might indicate a faulty seal or a corrosion problem.

If you have a TMV in your shower, then a faulty valve can make the shower drip even when it is off. Here, the valve may not be in the right position so it doesn’t shut water off effectively. Or, you may have a problem with the valve’s seals or cartridge.

If you have concerns about a TMV, then you need expert help. Don’t try to fix these valves if you don’t know what you’re doing. They are too important a safety job to mess up.

If you’re currently going through a bathroom renovation, one of the most important things you need to consider is the plumbing. As part of that, you need to consider certain height requirements in relation to your shower, including the shower valve and the showerhead amongst other things.

If you have never fitted a new shower before then these regulations are important to know, and if you’re looking for them you’ve come to the right place. Today, we’ll be looking at what sort of height you should be looking for when fitting a new shower valve in place and the factors you should consider before securing it in place.

A shower valve has two primary functions. The first is to control how fast the water comes out of the showerhead and the second is to control the temperature of the water. There are various types of shower valves currently available to homeowners, including the following three:

Have you ever been having a shower and suddenly experienced a surge of scolding hot water or freezing cold water out of nowhere? This is usually because someone else in the house is using water for something else at the same time you’re enjoying a shower.

A thermostatic shower valve essentially removes this scenario from ever playing out. Instead, you can set your desired temperature and leave it in place forever, safe in the knowledge that it will never change mid-shower.

This type of shower valve is particularly useful if you have young children. While you may be able to anticipate the temperature changes that can sometimes happen, they are less likely to and could end up getting burned by a sudden rush of boiling hot water.

This is one of the most simplistic and old-fashioned shower valves due to the fact that it only comes with one handle which controls both the temperature and water speed.

This type of shower valve is the cheapest shower valve on the market so if you’re looking for a budget option then look no further. Unfortunately, it does come with its limitations – each time you get in the shower you will have to try and find the sweet spot between water speed and temperature and it also doesn’t prevent the sudden temperature changes we mentioned earlier.

This is one of the newest types of shower valves and one of the most expensive. With these types of valves, you can manually change the exact temperature and speed of the water via an electronic touchpad.

The best thing about these valves is the fact that you can set a specific temperature shaped to your needs rather than making adjustments by twisting a knob back and forth until you find the temperature you like.

The standard height for a shower valve depends on whether you have a shower inside a bathtub or one free-standing (shower stall). If you have a shower inside a tub then the standard height is 28 inches from the bathroom floor. If you have a shower stall then the valve should be higher at 48 inches from the floor.

The reason for the difference in height is that if your shower is in the tub then the valve needs to also connect to the bath taps. These taps are of course relatively low to the ground because they are within the bath itself.

Additionally, shower valves are designed to be accessible and reachable. If you’re standing up in a shower stall then it makes little sense to have to bend down to 28 inches to be able to adjust your shower settings.

These measurements for shower stall valves are purely recommendations and can be adjusted depending on the needs of a household when it comes to installation. For example, if you have a household full of tall people then you may want to raise the height of the valve by a foot.

The shower head is another thing that you need to consider when setting your new shower valve in place. On average, the standard shower head height is usually around 80 inches from the floor but this does vary from household to household.

For example, the ceiling height in some homes is lower than others meaning that you may not even be able to reach 80 inches with your shower head. On the other hand, you may live in a household with a group of tall people meaning that you might want to raise it higher than 80 inches.

As a general rule, most plumbers recommend that you use 72 inches as a minimum height regardless of how tall or small you are due to the fact that any lower than this will impact the angle and direction that the water comes out.

The height of your showerhead can have an impact on where you might want to place your shower valve. Some people elect to fix their valve in place halfway between the shower pan and their showerhead, but this isn’t something really crucial.

The single-spray showerhead is the type of showerhead that comes as standard in most homes. It is fixed in place, mounted to the wall, and is the cheapest type of showerhead that you can buy. It doesn’t come with any flashy extras, it just does the simple stuff well, which as a basic requirement is all you need for a showerhead.

Detachable showerheads are brilliant because they work either as a stationary single-spray shower head that is fixed in place or you can remove it from its hook and move it around your body for a more complete wash. They are usually attached to a flexible hose which makes moving them around easy. The only downside is that these hoses can become loose when they’re meant to be fixed in place and end up spraying your entire bathroom with water.

Rain shower heads are usually mounted to the ceiling and point downwards directly onto the top of the person using the shower. This provides a rainfall-like feeling, as opposed to a standard, wall-mounted showerhead which tends to shoot water at a diagonal angle. Rainfall showerheads are more expensive than detachable and single-spray heads but will provide you with a more enjoyable shower experience.

Waterfall showerheads are unique in the fact that the water that comes out of them doesn’t come out of tiny holes like typical showerheads. Instead, large swatches of water pour over the edge of a fitted ledge. While this can be incredibly therapeutic, it does use up a lot more water so can be expensive in the long run. This type of shower head should be viewed as a secondary luxury option for if you have time to relax in the shower and should be avoided as your primary shower head.

If you have already fitted your shower valve in place but after a couple of showers have realized that maybe the height isn’t quite right then are a couple of ways to get it adjusted. The best methods are as follows:

With this technique, you will need to grind your current valve down and use replacement screws to fit a new one in place. Replace the plate that the previous valve sat on with an adjustable height plate designed for your faucet.

With this technique, you are going to remove the valve as you would do with the nail height adjustment method but then use the same screws which held the original valve in place on the new valve. The shower valve is screwed into the same gap where the previous one sat but in a way where it’s easy to adjust the height.

To conclude, the height you set your shower valve depends on a variety of factors relating to piping and personal choices. Firstly, it depends on whether you are fitting a valve into a bathtub or a shower stall, and then secondly, it depends on how tall you and the other people using it are. We hope that the information we’ve provided today will help you pick out the best shower valve and head for your bathroom renovation.

The location of a water heater is always a concern. Many are installed inside a living space and tucked away in a closet. It doesn’t take much imagination to envision what could happen when one of these water heaters is not installed properly. A water heater temperature and pressure relief valve is an important safety device for water heaters as well as the water distribution system to which it is connected. A new edition of CodeNotes—Water Heater Safety in the I-Codes (based on the 2018 IPC and IRC) — provides an understanding of the detailed requirements on these items from an overall safety viewpoint.

There are other important items associated with the relief valve. These items are mentioned in Section 504.6 of the International Plumbing Code (IPC) and Section P2804.6.1 of the International Residentia