ingersoll rand air compressor safety valve free sample

The 32174286 OEM safety valve from Ingersoll Rand is set to release air pressure in the aftercooler and discharge lines if the pressure were to ever reach 325psi or above. This is a common safety valve that was used on several of Ingersoll Rand"s reciprocating air compressors. The safety valve was typically installed on the air cooled aftercooler itself. On several of the older model Ingersoll Rand piston compressors the 325 psi safety valve was threaded directly onto the check valve.

This valve was used on multiple models besides the units listed above. Please contact our parts department for confirmation this will fit your air compressor.

**Please note the 325psi safety valve is different than the 150 or 200psi safety valve that was commonly used on receiver tanks. If you are looking for a receiver tank safety valve, please confirm the maximum pressure on your receiver tank and contact us for proper sizing and application.

This safety valve sits on the low pressure head on several models of the Ingersoll Rand T30 two stage pump. The safety valve has a maximum pressure rating of 80psi and threads into the pump with ¼” threads.

It is extremely rare that this safety valve goes bad. If the valve is blowing off, it is typically indicative of faulty valves on the inside of the pump. Bad valves will cause the safety valve to blow, as the inlet valve on the high pressure side does not close on the piston upstroke, therefore releasing high pressure air back through the intercooler into the low pressure head.

When the safety valve pops, you will need to replace the reed valves on the inside of your pump. Since this part was used on a number of different IR pumps, the valve/gasket kits for these models will vary. Please contact our parts department with your piston pump model number and we will be happy to find the correct valve and gasket kit for your compressor.

These high pressure safety valves combine extra sturdy construction, a patented* three-piece disc including seat seal of Teflon, and finely adjustable blow down control-resulting in long service life with superior seat tightness at operating pressure

Multi-stage compressor intercoolers and after coolers, Receivers Especially recommended for thermal expansion relief and/or full rated capacity discharge. When equipped with S/S springs, or all stainless steel assemblies, for low temperature-cryogenic- installations.

An air compressor problem could stem from one of many issues, such as an air leak, an oil leak or a broken part. In some cases, you might have insufficient pressurization or air flow. In other cases, the compressor might fail to start up or stop running as prompted. Whatever the cause of the problem, the symptoms can be frustrating, costly and time-consuming.

Thankfully, most such problems can be corrected with proper air compressor troubleshooting. The Titus Company has developed this troubleshooting guide for reference when your air compressor won’t work. Whether you’re hearing excessive noise from your portable air compressor or your system won’t build pressure, you’ll find the cause here — and, hopefully, a solution. If not, call us. We’ll be there quickly with our 24/7 emergency services.

Good air pressure is essential to a well-powered machine. When air is leaking from your tank or hoses, you’ll notice low pressure, which brings on extra time and energy costs that can leave your business behind. An air leak could be down to one of several factors. Fortunately, leaks can be sealed with the right kind of air compressor troubleshooting. The following symptoms are among the most common leak-related air compressor problems:

If you shut off the air compressor on full charge, yet the gauge drops while the compressor is deactivated, you definitely have an air leak. The compressor might even automatically restart just to counter the situation. What you need to do in this situation is pinpoint the source of the leak.

Apply soap to the connections: With the compressor unplugged, cover the connections with liquid soap, including all the couplers and the pressure switch. If bubbles form at any point, that is where the leak is located. Tighten up the coupler, if possible, where the bubbling occurs.

Inspect the tank check valve: Air leaks are sometimes caused by tank check valves that fail to close completely. If the pressure gauge continues to drop when the tank is off, access the tank valve and inspect its condition. The valve might need to be cleaned or replaced.

If the air leaks occur only when a hose is plugged into the compressor, disconnect the hose. If the pressure gauge stops dropping, the hose is the source of your leak.

If your compressor is losing pressure through the oil fill tube, check the piston seals. In most such cases, the piston seals will be badly worn and in need of immediate replacement. This is a problem that you should remedy immediately, as worn pistons can cause metal-on-metal friction that could swiftly lead to internal corrosion.

Air leaks from under the hood are sometimes encountered on smaller air compressors. To diagnose the problem, remove the hood, run the compressor for a few minutes, then shut it off and unplug the compressor. Feel around the motor parts for any sort of air draft. Chances are, the leak will originate from the tank valve, in which case you will need to remove and clean or possibly replace the valve.

If you notice an electrical issue, you need to take a look at it or have a professional come out as soon as possible. It could be anything from your motor capacitors to misfiring piston rings. If the power cuts out on your air compressor — or the power is insufficient and unreliable — the problem is most likely down to one of the following factors:

Extension cords: If your compressor is connected to an outlet via an extension cord, the motor could be deprived of sufficient energy, causing the motor to overheat. Compressors are not like home electronics, which can suffice on extension cords and power bars. An air compressor should only be powered through a direct connection to a power source.

An old motor: If your compressor has run on the same motor for many years, it could be time for a change-out. An older motor is liable to have worn windings, loose capacitor wires and other general wear that could easily result in blown fuses and breakers.

An air compressor consumes massive volumes of power at the time of startup. This is known as the inrush, which vastly exceeds the amount of power generally consumed throughout the rest of a usage cycle. To prevent fuses from breaking during this inrush, compressor motors are equipped with starter capacitors, which manage the incoming power. A dimming light is one of the tell-tale signs that the starter capacitor is worn and due for a replacement.

If your air compressor trips off the moment it powers on, the issue is likely caused by trapped air over the pistons. To test for this problem, shut off the tank, unplug it from the power supply and drain the tank of all air. This should relieve the pistons of undue air pressure and allow the tank to start without further issues. Trapped air over the pistons is usually caused by a faulty unloader valve, which should be inspected, cleaned and possibly replaced if the issue persists.

When an air compressor fails to start up, shut down or provide any degree of air pressure while active, the problem could be down to one of several issues. Each case should be taken on its own, as follows:

Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord or a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to start when it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure is not proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the tank, the compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in setting on the pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly.

The compressor should stop once the tank pressure drops to the cutoff point. If this fails to occur, the problem will generally be down to one of two issues:

Faulty pressure release valve: If the valve fails to release pressure, the tank will be too pressurized for the motor to stop running. In cases like these, you should cut the power and refrain from further use until the valve is replaced, as further use could seriously damage the compressor.

Faulty pump: If the motor is running and making noise yet no air comes out, you probably have a faulty air-intake pump that needs to be replaced. As long as the compressor is not too hot, you can feel for lack of pump pressure manually with a pair of protective gloves.

Faulty gasket: If the compressor only generates small amounts of pressure, there might be an issue with the gasket between the low-pressure and high-pressure compartments of the compressor, such as air flowing from one side to the other without sufficient pressurization.

Fortunately, pumps and gaskets can easily be changed out. With a simple parts replacement, you should be able to get many more years of performance from the compressor at hand.

If compressor oil works its way into the air lines, the effects could be detrimental elsewhere in the compressor because the pump uses a different kind of lubricant than other parts of the system. Once inside the air lines, that oil will be dispersed to other areas, potentially causing seals to crack or swell. Oily air lines are most troubling when the oil travels to plastic parts of the air valve.

The ill-effects of oil on plastic are due to the additives in the oil, which can cause plastic surfaces to become brittle and ultimately split. A plastic lubricator bowl, for example, could split under such circumstances if the air pressure crosses a certain threshold. You can protect the bowl — or contain the plastic in the event of a rupture — by affixing it with a metal shroud.

In a reciprocating air compressor, the oil must first travel past the piston seals to make its way to the tank. When this occurs, the seals should be replaced immediately. This would also be an opportune time to replace the valve and gasket.

As soon as you notice that oil has entered the air lines, check the sump to make sure that it still has a sufficient quantity of oil. If the problem persists, the sump could be depleted of its oil supply.

When removing the oil, take a look at it and ensure it appears clear and consistent. Sometimes, you may notice your oil has a milky look to it — this happens when your air compressor is exposed to excessive humidity and condensation has gotten into the oil reservoir. In this case, you should drain and replace the oil and move your air intake pipe to a less humid environment.

If you experience these problems, remove the filter housing from the intake pump and run the compressor again. If the problems cease and the compressor runs normally, the issue is rooted in the air intake media. From here, you have two options — cleaning or replacing. To clean a compressor filter, run water through it until you don’t see any dirt particles.

You can replace the media with various types of filter elements sold at supply stores and car parts shops. The best options are media that resemble the kinds used in air conditioners. Cut the media to the dimensions of the intake filter and switch out the old for the new.

The discharge coupler is fitted with the wrong hose connector, thus blocking the flow of air. This could be the case if you recently replaced one of the parts without checking OEM specifications.

If your tank has sufficient air quantity, yet generates very little air pressure, check the gauge readings. If the gauge is too low, you will not get sufficient air pressure from the tank. If your tank gauge is 100 psi, the gauge should be set to somewhere around 90 psi.

If an air compressor seems to have stopped working due to a broken part, you first need to test the part to verify the root of the problem. A compressor will not work if the following parts are broken. Fortunately, all can be replaced:

The intake filter is a crucial part of the air compressor because it strains impure particulates from the incoming air. Since it physically sticks out from the rest of the unit, an intake filter is one of the more easily broken parts to an air compressor. Fortunately, it is also one of the easier parts to replace. As long as you find a filter with the same thread size and roughly the same portal size and diameter, it should work for your machine.

If you break the pressure switch on an air compressor, you might be surprised by the underlying complexities. Fact is, any old replacement switch will not solve the problem due to all the connecting points of the manifold. To fix the problem, you will need to find a switch that accommodates each of the four or five connecting points, which will generally include sockets for the pressure relief valve, the air tank gauge, the compressor tank and the quick coupling.

Before you buy a new pressure switch and manifold, take note of the following details on the old switch, each of which must be matched on any new switch you attach to the compressor:

Many newer air compressors — particularly those on the lower-cost end of the spectrum — blow air with fans made of plastic, which is less expensive than metal but is also more easily prone to wear and tear. Fortunately, a replacement fan made of either material will work in almost any compressor. Therefore, if you have a fan with broken plastic blades, you could turn this into an opportunity to upgrade to metal.

Before you pick a replacement fan, check the compressor manual for a listing of the part number and corresponding dimensions. If not found, measure the dimensions and the hole diameter of the original fan. Take note of the number of blades and the direction of airflow, as both details are consequential to the performance and make of the compressor.

If the motor of your air compressor fails to power on when you flip the switch, it could be a matter of the switch itself, though you should run some tests before you draw any conclusions. Check the power cord to ensure that it is plugged into a functioning socket. If the power switch still fails to activate the compressor, plug a light or electronic device into the outlet to see if that powers on.

If the outlet works for other devices but not your compressor, pull back the housing that confines the switch, remove it from the socket and check the compressor owner’s manual for specs on the switch. Make sure that your replacement switch will match the specs and fit the socket.

Air compressors serve all kinds of purposes on a professional as well as personal scale. From pressing plants and factories to repair shops and studios, pressurized air is used to assemble everything from automobiles and aircraft to appliances and home furnishings. Today’s compressors are designed to deliver optimal power with sleek designs through many usage cycles.

At The Titus Company, we offer maintenance on a variety of air compressor types and brands. Contact us today to learn more about our products and services and how we can help you fix an air compressor that won’t work as intended.

An OSHA COMPRESSED AIR SAFETY SHUT-OFF VALVES should be placed immediately after the air control shut off valve and before the hose on a compressor, and after each discharge port that a hose is connected to.

Before starting the compressor the air control valve should be closed completely. When the compressor unloads, open the air shut off control valve very slowly. Full port ball valves tend to work better than gate or butterfly type valves.

The air shut off control valve must be fully open for the OSHA COMPRESSED AIR SAFETY SHUT-OFF VALVES to work. Some portable air compressor manufacturers recommend start-up with the air control valve slightly open. In this case you may have to close the valve and reopen it slowly to the full open position, or wait for the safety shut-off valve to reset itself.

If the OSHA COMPRESSED AIR SAFETY SHUT-OFF VALVES fails to operate despite meeting all condi-tions, check the hose line for obstructions or a hose mender restricting normal air flow.

• Turn on air supply slowly (to avoid tripping OSHA safety valve). Prior to fully reaching operation conditions, the OSHA COMPRESSED AIR SAFETY SHUT-OFF VALVES should suddenly activate and stop air flow.

• If the OSHA COMPRESSED AIR SAFETY SHUT-OFF VALVE is not activated the unit should be disconnected and the lower flow range OSHA COMPRESSED AIR SAFETY SHUT-OFF VALVES should be used. This means you need to use a different valve with a lower scfm range.

• At temperatures below 40°F ensure that OSHA COMPRESSED AIR SAFETY SHUT-OFF VALVES are not subject to icy conditions which may prevent proper functioning.

These high pressure safety valves combine extra sturdy construction, a patented* three-piece disc including seat seal of Teflon, and finely adjustable blow down control-resulting in long service life with superior seat tightness at operating pressure

Multi-stage compressor intercoolers and after coolers, Receivers Especially recommended for thermal expansion relief and/or full rated capacity discharge. When equipped with S/S springs, or all stainless steel assemblies, for low temperature-cryogenic- installations.

Searching for tools to control the flow of your piping system? Explore one of the largest featured collections of products and discover a range of wholesale air compressor safety valve on Alibaba.com. When you search for air compressor safety valve and related items, you will be able to find many types of air compressor safety valve varying in size, shape, use, and quality, all at prices in which are highly reasonable!

There are many uses of valves - mainly controlling the flow of fluids and pressure. Some examples include regulating water for irrigation, industrial uses for controlling processes, and residential piping systems. Magnetic valves like those using the solenoid, are often used in a range of industrial processes. Whereas backflow preventers are often used in residential and commercial buildings to ensure the safety and hygiene of the water supplies. Whether you are designing a regulation system for irrigation or merely looking for a new replacement, you will be able to find whatever type of air compressor safety valve that you need. Our products vary from check valves to pressure reducing valves, ball valves, butterfly valves, thermostatic mixing valves, and a lot more.

Before youbuy compressed air receiver tank, take some time to learn about the device itself. Our guide to compressed air receiver tanks explains how they work, what they do, and how you can use them to maximize the efficiency of your compressed air system.

An air receiver tank (sometimes called an air compressor tank or compressed air storage tank) is what it sounds like: a tank that receives and stores compressed air after it exits theair compressor. This gives you a reserve of compressed air that you can draw on without running your air compressor.

An air receiver is a type ofpressure vessel; it holds compressed air under pressure for future use. The tanks come in a range of sizes and in both vertical and horizontal configurations.

An air receiver tank provides temporary storage for compressed air. It also helps your air compression system run more efficiently. The air receiver tank has three main functions in your compressed air system:

The primary role of an air receiver tank is to provide temporary storage for compressed air. Storing compressed air allows the system to average the peaks in compressed air demand over the course of a shift. You can think of your air receiver tank as a battery for your compressed air system, except it stores air instead of chemical energy. This air can be used to power short, high-demand events (up to 30 seconds) such as a quick burst of a sandblaster, dust collector pulse, or someone using a blowgun to dust themselves off. The air in the tank is available even when the compressor is not running. Storing compressed air reduces sudden demands on your air compressor, prolonging the life of your system. Using an air receiver tank may also allow you to use a smaller horsepower compressor for larger jobs.

The air receiver tank provides a steady stream of air to compressor controls, eliminating short-cycling and over-pressurization. Uneven compressed air utilization causes uneven demand on the air compressor, resulting in rapid cycling of the compressor controls as the compressor turns on and off to meet moment-by-moment demand. Each time the system turns on and off (or loads/unloads) is called a “cycle”; it is better for the compressor motor to keep these cycles as long as possible. Over time, frequent short cycling will lead to premature failure of switches and other compressor components. Rapid cycling can result in excessive wear of the motor contactor or even a direct motor short because of winding insulation. The air receiver tank eliminates short cycling and provides more consistent system pressure to controls.

As air is compressed under pressure, its temperature increases; this is a simple law of physics known as thePressure-Temperature Law. Depending on the type of air compressor you are using, the air discharged from the compressor may be as hot as 250 – 350°F. This is too hot for most air-operated equipment to use directly. Hotter air also contains more moisture, which will result in excess water vapor that will condense in control lines and tools if it is not removed. The condensed air must be cooled and dried before it is utilized. Aheat exchangeris used to remove excess heat caused by compression. The air receiver tank acts as a secondary heat exchanger; as air sits in the tank or slowly flows through it, it naturally cools over time. The air receiver tank supports the work of a primary heat exchanger; lowering the temperature of the air an additional 5 – 10°F is not uncommon.

As the air compressor cycles on and off, compressed air can be wasted. Every time arotary screw air compressorunloads, the sump tank (oil tank) is vented. Compressed air is released during the venting. Over time, this adds up to the loss of thousands of cubic feet of compressed air that could otherwise have been used to power processes in your facility. A properly sized air storage tank reduces frequent cycling and venting.

Compressed air storage also allows you to reduce the pressure at which your air compressor operates. Without a store of compressed air to draw on, the system will have to operate at higher pressures, so it is always ready to meet peak demands. In essence, you are asking your system to operate as if your facility is always running at maximum demand. This leads to increased energy use and wear and tear on the system. On average, for every 2 PSI that you increase the pressure of your system increases the energy demand by 1%. This can lead to hundreds or thousands of dollars added to your energy bills annually. As explained above, adding an air receiver tank to your compressed air system will even out these peaks in demand, allowing you to meet intermittent periods of high demand without increasing the overall pressure of your system.

The heat exchanger function of the air receiver tank helps to improve the efficiency of your air dryer. As air passes slowly through the receiver tank, it cools. Cooler air can’t hold as much moisture as warm air, so excess moisture condenses and falls out of the air as a liquid. The water drains out of a valve at the bottom of the tank. By removing some moisture in advance, the air receiver tank reduces the amount of work the air dryer needs to do. This improved efficiency translates to additional energy savings for your system.

When shopping for an air receiver tank, you may be asked whether you want “wet” or “dry” compressed air storage. The difference is in the location of the air storage tank in your compressed air system; there is no difference in tank construction or design.

“Wet” storage tanks are locatedbeforethe air drying system. Air flows through the tank in this configuration, entering through the bottom port from the compressor and exiting out the top to the dryer.

“Dry” storage tanks are locatedafterthe air dryers to store compressed air that has already been dried and filtered. It is not necessary to flow the compressed air through the tank for dry storage.

With wet air storage, the receiver tank is positioned in between the air compressor and the air dryer. Wet air enters the receiver tank from the air compressor through the lower port in the tank and exits through the upper port to enter the air drying system. A wet air receiver tank has several benefits.

As explained above, wet storage increases the efficiency of your air dryer by allowing excess water and lubricant to condense out of the air before it hits the dryer.

A wet air storage tank also prolongs the life of the pre-filter element, which is located in between the wet storage tank and the dryer. Since the air going through the filter is cleaner and dryer than it would be directly out of the air compressor, slugging of the filter with liquids is minimized, along with resulting pressure drop on the air dryer side of the system.

The compressor does not experience backpressure because the air does not go through filtration before entering the tank. This results in a steadier pressure signal to the compressor controller.

Without a dry air tank, air from the wet tank will have to go through the air dryer before it is used. During periods of high demand, the dryer is at risk of becoming over-capacitated as the system tries to pull air through at higher volumes than the dryer is rated for. If the dryer cannot keep up with the demand, drying efficiency is reduced, potentially leading to unwanted water in the air lines.

The ideal ratio of compressed air storage is1/3 wet to 2/3 dry capacity. For example, if you have a total of 1,200 gallons of compressed air storage, 800 gallons should be dry storage, and 400 gallons should be wet. Dry air is ready to use on-demand. The wet air tank increases the efficiency of the dryer and acts as a secondary reserve when dry air is exhausted. Dry air storage needs to be greater than wet storage to minimize the risk of over-capacitating the air dryer during periods of high demand.

An exception to this rule is for applications that have steady airflow without sharp peaks in demand. In this case, there is no need for a dry storage tank because air will simply flow through it without being stored up. This is often the case in robotic manufacturing facilities where airflow is consistent and predictable.

A good rule of thumb for most applications is to havethree to five gallons of air storage capacity per air compressor CFM output. So if your air compressor is rated for 100 CFM, you would want 300 to 500 gallons of compressed air storage. As explained above, 1/3 of the total storage capacity should be wet storage, and 2/3 should be dry storage.

While the standard rule works well for many applications, you will also want to consider other variables in determining your compressed air storage needs. Flow consistency has a large impact on storage requirements.

Facilities with very steady airflow, such as robotic facilities, typically don’t need as much stored air. That’s because they don’t have frequent high bursts of demand that rely on stored air. In this case, air storage can be reduced to 2 gallons per CFM of air compressor capacity. All storage should be wet storage in this case, as explained above.

Facilities with high variability in airflow and large peaks in demand may require larger volumes of stored air. This extra capacity will ensure that the system will be able to keep up with periods of high demand. Testing to determine CFM at peak demand will be needed to calculate air storage requirements.

The final consideration in determining compressed air storage requirements is the size of the pipework in the system. The pipes also store air for your compressed air system, and the larger the pipes, the more storage they provide. For systems with pipework of 2” or greater diameter, it may be worthwhile to consider that volume into the calculation.

Compressed air receiver tanks can be bulky, so many compressed air system owners would prefer to store them outside. Outdoor storage saves precious floor space in the facility.

It also helps to reduce strain on your HVAC system in warm weather. The compressed air storage tank radiates heat as hot air from the compressor cools within the tank, raising temperatures in the compressor room. Storing your tank outside avoids excess heat buildup in the compressor room and also helps the storage tank perform its secondary job as a heat exchanger more efficiently.

However, outdoor storage only works in milder, non-freezing climates. Make sure your climate is suitable for outdoor placement of your compressed air tank.

Outdoor storage of the air receiver tank is only appropriate for environments that stay above freezing year-round. In freezing temperatures, outdoor tanks can ice up and even rupture—a costly and potentially dangerous outcome. If your area experiences freezing temperatures during part of the year, it is safest to keep your tank indoors.

If you are storing your air receiver tank outdoors, be sure to conduct frequent inspections to monitor for corrosion. Any signs of corrosion should be addressed immediately to maintain the integrity of the tank.

The majority of air receiver tanks are bare steel on the inside with a primer coating on the outside to reduce corrosion. The exterior paint is commonly matched to the compressor equipment. A basic steel tank works well for most applications and is the least expensive option. However, they may be prone to corrosion if too much liquid is allowed to build up inside the tank.

Epoxy coatings are sprayed onto the interior as a liquid and then cured into a tough, anti-corrosive coating. Epoxies work by creating a moisture-proof barrier between the air and the base metal of the tank.

Both methods provide long-lasting protection for the interior of the tank, but they do add to the cost and lead time. Coated or galvanized tanks are better at maintaining air purity because they reduce the risk of particulates caused by corrosion entering the airstream. Applications needing higher purity air, or users concerned about the longevity of their air tanks, may want to consider one of these options.

Stainless steel air receiver tanks are primarily used for specialty applications where very high-purity air is required. They are the most expensive option, but they are highly durable and corrosion-resistant and maintain exceptional air purity. Hospitals, labs, electronics manufacturers, and other applications requiring high-purity air should consider a stainless steel tank.

Air receiver tank accessories are essential for tank safety and operation. While the tank itself is just a large sealed metal tube, all tanks must have at a minimum:

Automatic drain valves eliminate the need for daily manual draining of liquid inside the air receiver tank. Anelectric automatic drain valveis programmed to open at set intervals to let accumulated liquid drain out.

Zero air-loss condensate drainsalso provide automatic drainage of the tank. Instead of draining at set intervals, they use a float mechanism to control drainage. The drain will only open when needed, saving energy and reducing air loss from the tank.

The pressure gauge provides a visual indicator for the interior pressure of the air in the tank. You need the gauge to monitor pressures and ensure that the tank is not under stress from over-pressurization.

A pressure relief valve is required for all air receiver tanks per OSHA and ASME guidelines. The pressure relief valve opens automatically to release some air if pressures in the tank are too high. This safety mechanism is essential to minimize the risk of a dangerous rupture due to over-pressurization. The relief valve is typically set to 10% higher than the working pressure of the compressed air system but never more than the rated pressure of the tank’s ASME certification.

Vibration pads are not required for all applications, but they are recommended if the air compressor is mounted on top of the tank. Vibration pads absorb vibrations from the compressor motor and reduce fatigue on the tank.

Many buyers wonder if ASME certification is important for air receiver tanks—and the answer is yes. All air receiver tanks used in industrial applications must be certified by ASME for safety and performance.

The American Society of Mechanical Engineers, or ASME, is an organization that sets engineering codes and manufacturing standards for a variety of machines, parts, and system components. ASME acts as an independent quality assurance organization to ensure the safety and quality of manufactured items. An ASME certification stamp means that the manufacturer has met all safety and engineering standards for their product.

ASME has developed a set of codes and standards for pressure vessels, including air receiver tanks. The ASMEBoiler and Pressure Vessel Certification Programsets rules governing the design, fabrication, assembly, and inspection of pressure vessel components during construction. These rules include engineering standards for the thickness of the tank body, welds and joints, connections, and other components of the tank. Tank manufacturers must conform to all of the rules to obtain ASME certification.

Some big box stores carry non-code air receiver tanks. While these may be cheaper, they have not undergone the rigorous manufacturing processes and quality testing needed to ensure that they are safe and reliable. Using a non-code air receiver tank could put your life and the lives of your coworkers at risk.

If you are not sure whether or not your air receiver tank meets code requirements, you should have it inspected. Your local Fire Marshall may provide this service. They will stop in and test your tank with ultrasonic metalthickness testing technology. If your air receiver tank does not pass the inspection, it should be decommissioned and replaced immediately.

All air receiver tanks must also be inspected periodically once they are installed. OSHA does not mandate a specific testing interval, but it is recommended that all air receiver tanks be inspected at least annually. Your insurance company or local governing board may have different requirements. OSHA requires that formal inspections be performed by an inspector holding a validNational Board Commissionand in accordance with the applicable chapters of the National Board Inspection Code. Manufacturers are required to keep records of formal inspections and make them available to OSHA representatives upon request.

In between formal board inspections, manufacturers should conduct frequent visual inspections of the air receiver tank to look for signs of corrosion, damage or weld failure. Check drains daily and pressure relief valves quarterly to make sure they are operating correctly. Contact your manufacturer or compressed air system installer immediately if you see any signs of problems with your air receiver tank.

Pressure vessels must be built to withstand high internal pressures over a long period of time. Over time, corrosion, stress, and fatigue can make tank failure more likely. The most common causes of air receiver failure are:

The high internal pressures within an air receiver tank make failure extremely hazardous. Cracking or weld failure can cause the tank to burst with explosive force, projecting large pieces of metal or fragments of shrapnel at high speed. Air receiver tank failure may result in extensive damage to the facility and nearby equipment and severe injury or death for nearby workers.

An appropriately-sized air receiver tank will improve the efficiency of your system—and can even reduce your operating costs for your compressed air system. Your air receiver tank reduces energy consumption and saves wear and tear on your system.

Your compressed air receiver tank is like a battery for your facility, providing an extra reservoir of compressed air you can draw on during periods of high demand. This lets you reduce the overall operating pressures for your system, resulting in lower energy costs. You may also be able to purchase a smaller air compressor with lower CFM capacity by relying on your air receiver tank for high-demand events.

As explained above, the air receiver tank reduces cycles counts for your air compressor by evening out peaks in compressed air demands. Lower cycle counts add up to lower energy use and less wear and tear on other system components, extending the life of your air compressor.

The air receiver tank functions as a pulsation dampening device, absorbing vibrations from the air compressor motor and pulsations in the air stream. This reduces fatigue on piping and other system components.

As the air cools in the air receiver tank, the excess liquid condenses and falls out of the air. This results in less work for the air dryer and less energy consumption.

Particulates can enter the airstream due to corrosion within the system, motor exhaust from the air compressor, or particulates in facility air. Many of these particulates will fall out of the air along with condensate within the air receiver tank. The excess dirt is then simply drained away with the liquids. As a result, the air entering the air dryer is both cleaner and drier than air directly from the air compressor.

Your air receiver tank is an essential component of your compressed air system. Having a properly sized air receiver tank ensures the safe and efficient operation of your system and provides a reservoir of extra power for use during periods of peak demand.

If you’re not sure how much air storage capacity you need, or if you have questions about maintaining your tank for safe operation, the experts at Fluid-Aire Dynamics can help. We will perform an assessment of your compressed air usage patterns and recommend an air receiver tank that will fit your needs. We can also help you inspect, repair, or upgrade your current storage system.