la pavoni safety valve in stock

2022 updated pressure release valve. This stronger valve will in most cases stop the occasional steam release from the pressure release valve caused by calcium blockages or foreign matter. For the Millennium edition (manufactured after 2000) only. Valvola di sicurezza con antivuoto (safety valve with anti-vacuum).

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This Safety Valve Body is found on the older version PRE-Millennium Europiccola, and it works with older Stainless Steel sphere (eventually replaced by the Teflon Valve).

Note that we offer two tools to assist with removing and reinstalling this assembly, the Steam Valve Removal Tool to reach the nut inside the boiler and the Pavoni Skinny Wrench to hold the base of the MP- or P-37 in place while loosening/tightening.

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The boiler safety valve on this page can be found on older espresso machine models of La San Marco. There is for this part no la San Marco part reference number. This safety valve has a male M22 thread with a pitch of 1,5mm. The valve has been calibrated on 1,8bar. When the valve opens it can release up to 6,3 kg/h of steam. This valve is auto certified...Quantity

The so called "false pressure" is a truly ridiculous term often used to describe residual air left inside boilers, and also in groups with some group designs, so that there is a contribution to the internal total pressure from that air. Simply bleeding the system eliminates this. The "two switch" La Pavonis and others with similar design do not have this problem with their boilers, because the escaping gases quickly sweep the air out, though the two switch ones still need to have their group handles raised momentarily after steam begins to escape to get the air out of the space above the piston. (Otherwise you will, as discussed in earlier posts, get a "spongy" pull.)

With the two switch La Pavonis and similar models, there are two heating elements, in the case of the 1974-1990 La Pavoni Europiccolas, and some later ones, a 200watt and an 800watt one. There is a pressure relief valve normally set to about 1.0 bar above atmospheric pressure. You turn on the machine with both elements on, soon the pressure rises inside, and initially air and steam come out the pressure relief valve, but the air is quickly expelled, then just steam comes out. It will come out with a lot of vigour too, because 1000 watts is a lot of energy. So when it begins to come out rapidly you turn off the 800 watt heater, leaving just the 200 watt one. This is enough to keep the boiler hot, and slightly more, so that there is a constant slow hiss of release steam. (If the ambient temperature be low there will be less hiss, because more heat is lost to the surroundings.)

I had problems with electrolytic corrosion on the ball inside my steam release valve, so that with just the 200 watt element on it released so much steam that the pressure was only about 0.1 bar. Apparently not very many other people have this problem? I replaced it with a ball from the hardware store, and it quickly deteriorated too, so I put in one of the plastic "mushrooms" you can get from OE and other places, like LaPavoni uses in recent models. (This is an example of a case where plastic IS better!)

It should hiss constantly with the 200 watt element on. You need to measure the pressure with it at equilibrium with the 200 watt element if you have problems with too low or too high pressure. You can install one on top of the sight gauge, or put one temporarily onto the steam valve. You can also machine a special cap and put a pressure gauge in the reservoir cap, but that requires a lathe, and it is nice to have a M32x2.0 die to cut the threads. You can also use a Presta bicycle tyre pressure gauge applied to the steam tube with the steamer tip removed, because they have the diameters.