pt cruiser convertible hydraulic pump refill brands

Chrysler | 2004-2008 PT Cruiser Convertible Rebuild/Upgrade service for main lift cylinder(s) using Top Hydraulics" proprietary seal upgrade, or replacement of hydraulic lines, or rebuild service of the pump, or any combination of the above. If your convertible top is moving slowly or not at all, you likely have one or both of the hydraulic cylinders leaking, which emptied out the pump"s reservoir. This is normal for a convertible of this age, as the seals in the hydraulic cylinders are decaying. The seals typically decay first on the bottom of the cylinders, where you would least expect it. Top Hydraulics replaces and upgrades all seven seals per cylinder, with an expected service life of several decades! The PT Cruiser convertible has two lift cylinders for the convertible top. Top Hydraulics" seal material is far superior to the OEM"s. Please send in your cylinders to be rebuilt, or use our core exchange service, also known as up-front shipping. Optional up-front shipping is more expensive, but very convenient. It includes a $150 core deposit plus a $40 surcharge per cylinder. When removing the hydraulic lines from the cylinders, please retract the cylinder shafts first. That way, you avoid that any accidentally slipping tool might damage the polished cylinder shaft. Top Hydraulics can replace the shafts with some from our own production, but we would have to charge extra. These cylinders typically fail first in the rear (bottom) of the cylinder. The OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) cylinders have front and rear caps that are sealed from the cylinder bodies with a seal material that decays over time. Top Hydraulics replaces those seals with a far superior material that is not sensitive to water and is resistant to most additives in hydraulic fluid. Our seals have a larger cross section for a superior static seal. The OEM cylinders rely on a tiny o-ring to energize a very thin, flat rod seal. The o-rings loose elasticity over time, and the OEM rod seals wear out. Top Hydraulics manufactures and installs its own precision CNC machined front caps in these cylinders, so that the tiny OEM rod seals can be replaced with Top Hydraulics" own u-cup seals for a far more reliable seal and much longer service life. In addition, the size and geometry of Top Hydraulics" u-cups is forgiving to tiny scratches and imperfections in the cylinder rods (aka piston rods or shafts), caused during the original manufacture, during removal from the car, during installation into the car, or by impurities in the hydraulic fluid. Top Hydraulics replaces the port seals (where the hydraulic hoses attach) and ships spares with each cylinder, in case your mechanic accidentally pinches an o-ring while installing the hydraulic hose. Note: if you have Top Hydraulics rebuild only one cylinder, or both, but not the full system, then you will have to refill the hydraulic pump with fluid. The system is self venting, and the air from the cylinder(s) will eventually end up in the reservoir. It can take several cycles to get all air out of the system. Keep topping off the reservoir until the fluid level does not drop below the fill mark any more. You can fill the pump slowly with a syringe or a squirt bottle through the fill plug in the middle, on top of the pump. You may need to use pliers or vise grips to loosen the plug if you end up stripping the 5-mm inside hex. The filling process through the fill plug is slow. You can speed it up a little by manually pulling up one or both of the cylinder shafts while filling the pump - this creates a vacuum in the reservoir. We recommend against taking off the reservoir, because you might damage the reservoir or its o-ring in the process. In particular, we recommend against drilling a hole in the reservoir. You will be introducing foreign particles into the system, plus the reservoir gets pressurized when the hydraulic cylinders retract. Possible fluids to use: FeBi 02615 Aral Vitamol Mercedes fluid p/n A 000 989 9103 (10) Pentosin CHF-11S Mopar 05127381AA Univys 26 All fluids above will mix with each other or with the original fluid in the pump, and they are safe to use in the system. Owning and driving a convertible with an automatic top is prestigious, convenient and exciting - let Top Hydraulics help you enjoy your beautiful car even more by making your convertible top system truly better than new!

Includes $400 refundable deposit. Rebuilt & upgraded cylinders, new & superior hoses, rebuilt & upgraded pump. System ships fully assembled and filled with hydraulic fluid. This saves you a lot of labor and frustration, compared to replacing the components one by one. Outstanding value, far superior to original OEM quality.

In your Chrysler PT Cruiser, there are two lines/hoses routed to each hydraulic cylinder. The hydraulic top system has a total of four hoses.  Each hose has a two-digit number stamped on it. Please identify the hose number when ordering.

Service of all moving parts with three years warranty. The pump goes through extensive testing of flow, pressure in both directions, and extended load testing to make sure it exceeds the manufacturer"s specs before we ship it back.

The price is per cylinder - it is highly recommended to upgrade in pairs! The PT Cruiser convertible has two lift cylinders for the convertible top. Top Hydraulics" rebuild/upgrade service makes these cylinders better than new, as our seal material is far superior to the OEM"s. We also improve on the size and geometry of four seals inside the cylinders. A total of seven seals per cylinder gets upgraded, including rod seal, piston seal, gland seal, cap seal, wiper, and port seals.

Make sure to fully retract the polished cylinder shaft before removing the hydraulic line clips, so that an accidentally slipping tool cannot damage the shaft on the polished surface that slides through the seal. Damaged shafts can be replaced, but there is a surcharge for that (or your core refund will be reduced if you choose core exchange).

Note: you will have to refill the hydraulic pump with fluid. The system is self venting, and the air from the cylinder(s) will eventually end up in the reservoir. It can take several cycles to get all air out of the system. Keep topping off the reservoir until the fluid level does not drop below the fill mark any more. You can fill the pump slowly with a syringe or a squirt bottle through the fill plug in the middle, on top of the pump. You may need to use pliers or vise grips to loosen the plug if you end up stripping the 5-mm inside hex. The filling process through the fill plug is slow. You can speed it up a little by manually pulling up one or both of the cylinder shafts while filling the pump - this creates a vacuum in the reservoir. We recommend against taking off the reservoir, because you might damage the reservoir or its o-ring in the process. In particular, we recommend against drilling a hole in the reservoir. You will be introducing foreign particles into the system, plus the reservoir gets pressurized when the hydraulic cylinders retract.

Hydraulic fluid is a mineral-based liquid used in heavy-duty applications to move power smoothly and efficiently. The fluid travels within a sealed system to also provide lubrication and reduce wear. Changing your hydraulic fluid regularly is a step toward protecting against excess wear and tear. Without the right lubricant at work, essential systems can break down and could provide poor performance or fail. Your hydraulic fluid may be leaking if you notice dry, cracked seals or see fluid on the ground. At O"Reilly Auto Parts, we stock hydraulic fluid for applications ranging from tractors to heavy duty equipment. Find the right hydraulic fluid for your application at O"Reilly Auto Parts.

HOW IT WORKS-Most modern cars use an electric motor to turn a hydraulic pump which supplies pressure to the lift cylinders located on each side of the car. The pump is usually located in the trunk area of the car and will most likely be held in place by 3 or 4 pointed grommets which push into holes in a bracket, the rubber grommets provide a cushion to reduce noise when raising and lowering the top. The pump assembly is a 1 piece unit that consists of an electric motor on one end, a small hydraulic pump in the middle and a fluid reservoir on the other end, the reservoir is held in place by a bolt that goes through the center of the reservoir into the pump, do not remove this bolt!To check the fluid level there will be a "push in" rubber plug or a slotted screw in plug located on the end of the reservoir above the center line, the fluid level should be to the bottom of the hole when the top is in the down position. When you operate your top switch to make the top move, this turns on the electric motor and the pump will take fluid from the reservoir and pressurize it, it will push the fluid through the lines to the cylinders. The fluid goes to the cylinders (it enters the bottom of both cylinders to make the top go up or to the top of the cylinders to make the top go down) as the fluid enters one end of the cylinder the top will begin to move and fluid is pushed out of the opposite end of the cylinder and returns to the reservoir through the hose. The pump is capable of producing between 300-450 PSI depending on the type of pump and year of car so use caution.

NOTE-Pumps and cylinders purchased from Convertible Top Specialists may be filled with fluid, this fluid will either be Dextron III automatic transmission fluid or mineral hydraulic oil.� The fluids are compatible with each other but�not with brake fluid. The complete system holds approximately 1 1/2 to 2 quarts of fluid, use extreme caution if your system contains brake fluid as it can damage the paint on your car.

WARNING-Never totally fill your pump reservoir with fluid, fill until fluid runs out the filler hole or until the reservoir is approximately 3/4 full.� A meat baster works good to fill your pump, just don"t tell your wife you used her turkey baster as it can he hazardous to your health.� If you are installing a new pump only, filling the pump reservoir 3/4 full and connecting the hoses and electrical connector should be all that is necessary.� However after running the top up and down 2 times it is recommended that you check the fluid level with the top in the "down" position, you can leave the plug out of the reservoir when testing the top operation as there is no pressure in the reservoir and this will help allow any air bubbles to escape.� You should never run the top motor for more than 15-20 seconds at a time to prevent damage. Remember that �the cylinders can exert over 1000 pounds of force and can cause considerable damage if you are not careful.

REPLACING CYLINDERS-Remove the old cylinder and install the new cylinder in its place.� The new cylinder will have its piston in the "retracted" or "down" position therefore attaching it to the top frame will not be possible at this time.� Operating the top pump will fill the cylinder with fluid and extend the piston rod until it can be attached to the top frame.� While filling the cylinder the pump should only be operating about 15 seconds at a time to prevent overheating, check the fluid level at this time and refill if necessary.� Leave the filler plug out and place a rag under the pump to catch any spillage until the unit is bled out and filled. The piston rod must be watched closely during this process to prevent damage.� When the piston rod is extended to the proper position attach it to the top frame, you will now be raising the top frame as you are bleeding the system.� The fluid level should be checked and refilled (if necessary) each time the top is returned to the down position.� Running the top up and down 3-4 times will bleed the system and the filler plug may now be installed, assuming there are no additional problems your top will be in good working order.

I have a 2005 PT Cruiser Convertible Turbo, and am having issues with my top. The motor runs, but I cannot put the top down. I read through the forums, found the bleeder screw, loosened that, and can manually raise and lower the top. If I open the bleeder screw and put the top down manually, and then tighten the screw, the top will close by pressing the button. VERY.GRUDGINGLY. The motor is very loud and the top closes VERY slowly. I haven"t seen or smelled any hydraulic fluids in the trunk, or under the vehicle. Of all the PITA things that have gone wrong with this car, leaking fluids is thankfully not one of them. So this leads me to believe that over time (9 years) I"ve managed to slowly lose enough hydraulic fluid so there just isn"t enough pressure in the lines to raise and lower the top properly.

This SHOULD be a relatively easy task, one would think, although Chrysler did a lot of things in the 2005 PT Cruiser Convertible to make what should be relatively easy tasks non-trivial, and requiring a trip to a mechanic to do them. So after ripping out the entire passenger side back seat to get to the top motor, my internet research has shown that Chrysler made the pump a totally sealed system without a way to add more hydraulic fluid, necessitating a complete replacement of the entire working pump.

I"ve seen one "guide" on the web which suggests VERY carefully drilling a hole in the plastic top of the reservoir, making sure that no plastic shavings get into the system, topping off the reservoir using a turkey baster to squirt the correct fluid ($25/qt?????), and then plugging up the hole with a rubber V stopper from your local hardware store. Another certified tech on another web answer site stated that there already was a rubber plug for refilling the hydraulic fluid, so I"m doubly confused as to what I might actually find once I spend an afternoon ripping out my back passenger seat. Any help here to save me that exploratory mission would be greatly appreciated.

Finally, while calling around to try and find a used top motor ($125 is the lowest price several states away), which will already have the elusive hydraulic fluid inside its self contained little ecosystem, the used parts salesman had what seems to be a rather brilliant solution, I think... The hydraulic lines have to push AND pull hydraulic fluid through the system, right? Is it possible to easily remove the end from one of the intake lines (there are 4 total), stick that line into the container of hydraulic fluid, and let the pump suck new fluid into the sealed reservoir? Or am I SOL on this method because like the reservoir, everything in this bloody top motor assembly is completely sealed and impossible to access?

I"d really like to get this done as easily and cheaply as possible so I can sell my Cruiser. I"m in the process of buying another vehicle as we speak, but not doing a trade-in so I have the luxury of a little time. The top does need to work, because no one wants a convertible with a broken top, although I am far from concerned about the longevity of the fix, so using a used part is fine with me, although just adding a little more hydraulic fluid would make me a heck of a lot happier.

Cute and quick are words that rarely come together when describing an automobile. Few small cars possess the adorable appearance and quick actions of a jackrabbit. And big cars--well, cute isn"t a description that applies.

Since its inception in 2000, the Chrysler PT Cruiser could definitely be described as cute. But it was by no means quick. In our first road test (June 2000), the 150-hp PT scuttled from 0 to 60 mph in 8.5 seconds. Then came a turbocharged GT version (October 2002) with a 215-hp four and four-speed automatic that dropped the 0-to-60 time to 7.2 seconds. Cute and quicker? Definitely. Cute and quick? Getting there.

Now comes the brand-new convertible you see here. Would it take the "cute and quick" crown? We had our doubts, at least with regard to the latter part. There"s no denying its charm. With its large, long doors and unusually high beltline, the convertible arguably does a better job than the wagon at mimicking the fender-bulging sedans of the late "30s that inspired the original PT"s design. In profile, the convertible looks long; in truth, it"s dimensionally identical to the wagon in length (168.8 inches), width (67.1), and wheelbase (103.0) and is only 2.4 inches lower at 60.6. Plus, with the power-operated, three-layer insulated softtop (fitted with a glass backlight) lowered and the color-coordinated "sport bar" fully exposed, the PT convertible looks sort of butch, almost enhancing its cuteness.

But cute only goes so far with us. So Chrysler wisely delivered its PT droptop in spicy GT form. The GT gets its powerplant from the barn where the zoomy Dodge SRT-4 is assembled. For the PT convertible, the 2.4-liter turbo spools up 220 horses (10 fewer than in the donor car), all of them dictated by a Getrag five-speed manual. In spite of its 3485-pound curb weight, the convertible ran to 60 in seven seconds flat and through the quarter-mile in 15.4 at 92 mph. Now that"s quick. What"s more, the PT"s 0-to-60 and quarter-mile times match those posted by a 300-hp Chevrolet SSR(September 2003).

If you judge the PT GT against the $41,995 SSR, the softtop is a steal. But compared with its natural competitors--the VW New Beetle GLS 1.8T convertible (April 2004) and the upcoming Mini Cooper S convertible--the PT falls on the pricier side of the spectrum. With a base of $28,155, the GT droptop runs $2760 more than the turbo Beetle and likely $3000 to $4000 over the upcoming Mini. Our test convert, which came standard with leather upholstery, traction control, 17-inch wheels, and side airbags, also featured heated seats ($250), an in-dash six-CD changer ($200), and chrome wheels ($700), escalating the price to $29,305. For considerably less money, the PT convertible can be had in base trim ($19,995) with a 150-hp naturally aspirated four, and in Touring trim ($23,490) with a 180-hp turbo.

With the extra 70 horses in GT mode, our ragtop outgunned the VW by 0.7 second to 60 and 0.8 in the quarter-mile. In a straight line, the PT GT is undeniably a more enjoyable machine to scoot. But on curvy roads, it can"t quite match the New Beetle"s athleticism, displaying more body roll, understeer, and torque steer, the latter really noticeable in the first two gears. Burdened with an extra 279 pounds compared with the Bug, the PT held on for 0.79 g on the skidpad, which couldn"t match a Beetle GLS 2.0 at 0.82 g (February 2003). The PT posted a 184-foot 70-to-0-mph stopping distance, which was 10 feet longer than our April Bug"s. At least the steering, although it"s rather artificial in feel, offers up linear response.

Despite its robust sport bar--which is not there for rollover protection, according to Chrysler, but to enhance the structure and cut wind noise with the top down--the PT tends to get the shakes over rough and uneven pavement, especially in the cowl. That said, the PT"s less-than-stellar rigidity doesn"t adversely affect the ride, which offers a pillowlike cushion over even large undulations. Furthermore, with the top up, the ride is serene, exhibiting only 71 decibels of noise while cruising at 70 mph--3 dBA less than in a Cadillac CTS-V.

Did we also mention that this convertible is roomy? Its luggage compartment will accept seven cubic feet of stuff, two more than the Beetle"s. Rear-seat legroom is 40.9 inches, the same as the wagon"s and 9.4 more than the VW"s. Plus, with the split-folding rear seats both lowered flat, the PT can haul 13 cubic feet of dry goods.

We can argue that the GT is too pricey for a convertible derived, however distantly, from the inexpensive Neon. But we can"t dispute that it is cute, quick, and practical. In the world of compact droptops, it doesn"t get much better than that.